woodcraft magazine - january 2014 usa

8/11/2019 Woodcraft Magazine - January 2014 USA

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Projects, Techniques, and Products

VOL. 10/NO. 56DEC/JAN 1

Display un l January 28, 2014

Tools for the beginner and expert p.21

Arts & CrafsTable

ShakerNes ng Boxes

Rus c Dough Bowl

TurnedPizza Cu er

SPECIALGIFT ISSUE

4MOREPROJECTS

ReversibleTreasure Chest p.36

Build this


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Last time a band playedthis well, Ringo was

at the drums!

Our bandsaws will bring music to your ears.

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Rus c Country Dough Bowl

Once you make the investment inpower-carving tools and accessories,follow Alan Hollars instruc ons toshape and hollow backyard logs into avariety of charming containers.

Shaker Nes ng BoxesDiscover the secrets behind making one oval liddedbox, and youll know how to make several in di erentsizes. Here, nd the pa erns, jigs, and know-how tocreate a set of ve decora ve boxes.

Treasure ChestBecause kids dont stay kidsforever, this accommoda ngdesign lets you switch fromstoring playthings in a toy chestto storing quilts in a blanketchest by simply ipping the sidepanels to repurpose the box andchange its looks.

29

48

36

Contents: Projects

2 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2014 Cover photo: David Crosby

Dec/Jan 2014


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Arts & Cra s End TableThis weekend woodworking project serves as agreat accent piece while adding to your collec onof furniture in the same beloved style.

2013 Gi -Buying GuideThis unique selec on considers the needs ofwoodworkers just ge ng started as well as thoseseasoned cra smen who wish to step up to toolso ering higher quality and precision.

54

21

Contents: Projects and Tools

4 woodcraftmagazine.com Dec/Jan 2014

Departments

Cu ng In

Mailbox

Tips & Tricks

WoodSense: Teak

Products that Perform:Pinnacle 40 1 2 Scrub Plane

06

1410

68

72

Big-Wheel Pizza Cu erNeed a stocking stu er fast? How about shapinga handsome handle for an all-business chromecu ng wheel that measures 4" across. Totalturning me: one hour.

62


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Moonlight serenade

Over the years, the editorial staff at Woodcraft Magazine has provided readers with an enormous library of plans andtechniques aimed at furnishing home interior and exteriorspaces with tables, chairs, and accents, and at developingwoodworking skills. Occasionally, however, we introduceyou to a niche area of woodworking that could repay youa hundredfoldshould you choose to pursue it in earnest.Indeed, you may seek to become an expert in such a niche areaafter buying the needed tools, accessories, and materials to

launch your new interest or moonlight activity.In this issue of the magazine, we have two such

examples that may light a spark. On page 48, youlldiscover how to make Shaker nesting boxes thatalways prove to be a hit at crafts shows. Everything

you need to get startedfrom the banding to thetacks to the boiling boxare included in the story,supported by a complete set of step-by-step

instructions and patterns. This inroad may leadyou into making Shaker baskets and trays

and building a booth to sell your wares.On page 29, we show how to get

set up for making country doughbowls. The real beauty here is that

once you have the various tools onhand, the right-angle grinders, chainsaw,

and special cutters, you are well on your way. The cost of bowlblank materials may be as little as the stack of logs sittingbehind your house. For many, that supply may be endless,particularly if you live in the wooded hills of Appalachia.

With all of that said, we occasionally feature projects byartisans who make their living with the designs they share in themagazine. They allow us to publish their design so that readersmay make a few for family members or friends, not for resale orto compete in their marketplace. To ind out what projects fallin this category, call our editorial of ice at 1-800-542-9125. In

the meantime, enjoy your newfound skills.


Cutting InDec/Jan 2014Volume 10, Issue 56

Editor-In-Chief Jim HarroldSenior Editors Paul Anthony Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk

Art Director Chad McClungGraphic Designer Shayne Hiles

Copy Editor, ProofreaderSharon Hambrick

Contributing Consultants/Craftsmen/Project DesignersAlan Hollar, Al Huls, Marlen Kemmet,Andy Rae, Mario Rodriguez, Pete Stephano

Publisher Jody Garrett

Advertising Sales Manager Vic Lombard

Circulation Support Kim McLaughlin

Advertising/AdministrativeCoordinator Kiah Harpool

CirculationCirculation Specialists, Inc.

Subscriptons U.S. and Canada, $19.97 for one yearSingle copy, $5.99customer_service@woodcra magazine.com (800) 542-9125

Contact UsWoodcraft Magazine4420 Emerson Avenue, Suite AP.O. Box 7020Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020(800) 542-9125 Fax : (304) 420-9840Email: [email protected]: woodcraftmagazine.com

Woodcraft Magazine (ISSN:1553.2461, USPS 024-953)is published in January, March, May, July, Septemberand November and printed in the United States byWoodcraft Supply, LLC, 4420 Emerson Ave., Suite A,Parkersburg, WV 26104. Tel: (304) 485-2647. PeriodicalPostage paid at Parkersburg, WV, and at additionalmailing offices. Copyright 2013 by WoodcraftSupply, LLC. All rights reserved. POSTMASTER: Sendaddress changes to Woodcraft Magazine , P.O. Box7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020. Canada Post:Publications Mail Agreement #40612608Canada Returns to be sent to Pitney Bowes,P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2

Printed in the USA

Safety First! Working wood can be dangerous.Always make shop safety your rst priority byreading and following the recommenda ons ofyour machine owners manuals, using appropriateguards and safety devices, and maintaining all yourtools properly. Use adequate sight and hearingprotec on. Please note that for purposes ofillustra ve clarity, guards and other safety devicesmay be removed from tools shown in photographsand illustra ons in this publica on.

Photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert


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All your table top workholding needs in one complete system.A workholding system built around Magswitch on/off magnetic clamps providing strong, preciseplacement anywhere on any steel table. Our award winning technology is a breakthrough for fast, easy,strong workholding on any steel table or fence. The system accommodates your workholding needs onall your power tool tables including table saws, joiners, planers, band saws and shapers.

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Visit your local Woodcraft retailer and ask them about the Magswitch Woodworking Tools! www.woodcraft.com

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Resaw GuideAttachment Adjustable roller bearing for glide. Angled in-feed/out-feed for blade drift. Micro adjust to exact 90 . Use on band saw or out-feed on table saw.

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Now you can make it yours!Cutting crown molding has never been so easy. TheEZPro Crown Kingallows you to cut precise joining angles withouttedious trial and error process, right out of the box . With just one base unit, an insert, and your miter saw, you can createinterior and exterior joints for the three most common crown molding spring angles: 38, 45, and 52. It doesnt matteif youre a professional or a DIYer, you should check out this new addition to Generals EZPro line. Whether its for ceilingand wall corners, decorative elements for cabinetry and furniture, or enhancements for doors and windows, GeneralsCrown King produces crown molding joints that are affordable, yet t for a castle!

For more information and to purchase Generals new Crown King and the rest of our line of EZPro products, visit:woodcraft.com/generaltools

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NEW EZ Pro Crown Kinghelps you create seamless,perfectly mitered interiorand exterior corner joints.#880


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The EZ Pro Pocket Hole Jighas everything youneed to make ush,corner and anglepocket hole joints.

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Inspired by the pie safe in your Dec/Jan 2013 issue,I built my own version. (See the photo at right .) Thepunched tin was too country for my wife and I, so Idecided on the lat panel approach for the doors. Poplarlumber and birch plywood were used to construct thepiece. For a inish, I sprayed Benjamin Moore AuraCharlotte Slate on the surfaces using an Earlex HVLPsprayer. I then top-coated the paint with GeneralFinishes High Performance Satin Urethane. This is the

irst time I have used the saw-tooth shelf system, and Ithink it adds a nice touch to the piecean improvement

over traditional shelf pins. Thanks for the inspiration!Keith Johnson, Greenwich, Connecticut

Keith, thanks for sharing. You showed how a little creativitycan give a project design an entirely original look.Jim Harrold, editor-in-chief, Woodcraft Magazine

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P.O. Box 245, Parkersburg, WV 26102

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Meet Allan hobbyist woodworker, accomplished businessman and a firm

believer that life should be rewarding both personally and professionally.

Allan was working for a large Fortune 500 company which had an awesome

benet and pension package. He had over 10 successful years with them,

but he was spending little time at home because he was always traveling.

It became evident his life was anything but balanced. So, when he saw a

franchise opportunity with Woodcraft, the most trusted name in woodworking,

he reached for the brass ring. No wonder. From demographic research

for a store location to a detailed operations manual coupled with ongoingtechnical and marketing support, Woodcraft provides a complete franchise

system backed by the most recognized brand in the industry. Allan will

tell you that although it has not been an easy road, with a lot of hard

work and the support of Woodcraft, dreams do come true.

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In our Aug/Sept 2013 issue, weannounced a mega sweepstakesoffering a chance to win tools,training, gift certi icates, andfree subscriptions to WoodcraftMagazine . Here, now, aresome of the lucky winners.Grand Prize Winner: Joe Ness, Deltona, FloridaPowermatic tool prize

package valued at $15,000and training with aPowermatic rep at theOrlando Woodcraft store.Second Prize Winners: Philip Hendrix, Aceworth,Georgia; Kris Telford, West

Valley City, Utah; DeanRoadifer, Lebanon, Oregon$250 Woodcraft Gift Cardwith a 2-year WoodcraftMagazine subscriptionThird Prize Winners: Fifty winners (too

numerous to mention)1-year WoodcraftMagazine subscriptionCongratulations to all, andthanks for participating.Jim Harrold, editor-in-chief ,Woodcraft Magazine

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Tips & Tricks

TO P TIP

Thin-plate ZCIMy hybrid tablesaw has a 1 8"-

thick metal throat plate thatsits in an opening with veryshallow ledges. This shallowrecess complicates making azero-clearance insert (ZCI) forthe opening in order to minimizeexit tear-out and preventnarrow rippings from fallinginto the saw. My solution is tomodify the stock throat plate.

Make a sub-plate by cutting a

piece of3 8

"-thick plywood to itbetween the leveling screw tabsin your table opening. Wax theunderside of the stock plate andthe inside edges of its slot (toresist glue when attaching the

iller strip later), and then screw

the plate to the

plywood withlathead screwsdriven throughsix countersunkholes you drilledthrough the plate.Next, thickness ahardwood blank to matchthe width of the slot, andthen rip from the blank a st ripthats just a hair wider than the

thickness of the plate. Crosscutthis slot- iller strip to the slotlength, and then glue and clampit to the underlying plywood,topping the strip with waxedpaper and a caul. After the gluedries, sand the strip lush to the

plate. (To avoid scratching yourplate, mask off the surrounding

area with tape.) Alternatively,unscrew the stock plate, andhand-plane the str ip, testing the

it as you work. Finally, clampdown the inished ZCI, and raisethe spinning blade through it.David Schermock, Humble, Texas

1) Shape sub-plateto ft betweenleveling screw tabsin table recess.

2) Screwstock plateto sub-plate.

3) Gluefller strip tosub-plate.

Slot fllerstrip

Stock throaplate

3 8"-thickplywoodsub-plate

Throat platerecess

Leveling screw tab


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Dec/Jan 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 15Illustra ons: Chris Glowacki

A handscrew helperWooden handscrews are great for a variety ofclamping chores, but I also ind myself reachingfor them when I need to sand or machine smallparts. Their long reach and solid grip allow youto safely perform otherwise dicey operationslike routing or power-sanding the edges of smallblocks. Theyll keep your ingers out of harmsway, and the wooden jaws wont damage anexpensive cutter in case of accidental contact.Jack Preston, Tucson, Arizona

Share a Slick Tip.Win Cash or a Prize!Heres your chance to help someone becomea be er woodworker and get rewarded for thee ort. Next issues Top Tip will receive a WoodcrafGif Card worth $250 . Runners-up will receive $125 for an illustrated p; $75 for an non-illustratedone. Winning entries become the property of

Woodcraf Magazine . Send your original ideas to:

Tips & Tricks, Woodcraf Magazine , P.O. Box7020, Parkersburg, WV 26102-7020 or [email protected] .Important: Pleaseinclude your phonenumber, as an editorwill need to call you ifyour trick is consideredfor publica on.

Clamp smallworkpiece inhandscrew to keephands at a safedistance whenmachining orpower-sanding.

The American Woodshopwith Scott & Suzy Phillips

Season 21 -American OriginalsFreeform Designs& Hand Skill Solutions

Presented by - WBGUPublic TelevisionWBGU Public Television presents13 PBS TV shows of The AmericanWoodshop American Originals.

Season 21 shares woodworking tipsfor every skill level. Techniques include:turning, joinery, tool tune-ups, making jigs,bench building, and furnituremaking!Get your tools out!

wbgu.org/americanwoodshop

The American WoodshopIs Sponsored By:Woodcraft Supply, Kreg T ool Company,Easy Wood Tools & Gorilla Glue 2014 Sylvan Tool Works, Inc. All Rights Reserved


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Tips & Tricks

Wedge-cu ng revisitedSeeing Alan Turners bandsaw

wedge-cutting jig in issue #54sTricks column prompted meto share my own approach,which can be done on eitherthe bandsaw or tablesaw anddoesnt require making a jig.

Begin by thicknessing a boardto the desired width of yourwedges, and then crosscut awaya piece that equals the desiredwedge length. Out it your miter

gauge with an auxiliary fence,and set the gauge to half thedesired wedge angle. (Its bestto set it to create an obtuseangle between the fence andblade.) Also out it your sawsthroat opening with a zero-

clearance insert. Now, trim the

end of your blank, lip it 180,shift it the desired amount, andmake another cut to completethe wedge. To make multipleidentically sized wedges, set upa stopblock, as shown. (I use theback edge of my featherboard.)

To prevent binding, place thestopblock forward of the bladea distance equal to or greaterthan the length of your wedges.Philip Houck,Boston, Massachusetts

Miter gaugeauxiliary fence set

to half of desiredwedge angle.

1) Trim end ofwedge blank.

Zero-clearanceinsert

2) Flip blank.

3) Sawsecond cheekof wedge.

Set up a stopto cut mul pleiden cal wedges.

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Its not uncommonto have to shorten amachine screw, bolt,or other threadedfastener. Unfortunately,it can be dif icult tosecure the fastenerin a vise in order tohacksaw it to length.My solution is to drill

a hole in a scrap boardusing a bit whosediameter exactly matches the outside diameter ofthe fastener threads. I clamp this holder boardin my vise, slip the fastener through it, and hold itshead while sawing the shank to desired length.Alejandro Balbis, Longueuil, Quebec


Tips & Tricks

Shorteningscrews

Hole in scrapblock holds screwfor sawing.


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Dec/Jan 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 21

Woodcraf Magazines2013 Gif-Buying GuideTools every woodworker can use,whether theyre star ng out or stepping up

Online ExtraS ll searching for thatperfect gi ? For a fewaddi onal ideas, go towoodcrafmagazine.comand click on Online Extras.

If you have ever tried to buy atool for another woodworkeror received one as a gi , youknow that nding the rightitem is more akin to selec ng

a pair of shoes than buying abathrobeone size does nott all. Thats because every

woodworker is di erent: theneeds of a beginner are verydi erent than the wants of asawdust-seasoned veteran.

Selec ng a tool that elicitsa hurrah rather than aharrumph will require a bitof espionage on your part,

but if you can suss out ali le informa on aboutthe woodworker(s) on yourlist, we can help you nda gi that ts. Here, weve

selected a few must-have items for folkson both ends ofthe woodworkingexperience curve.

Star ng outtools are perfect for new

woodworkers, "home-improvers", and even kids.Stepping up tools areaimed at those who areserious about woodworkingand looking for features nottypically found on entry-level tools. Weve sprinkledin a few moderately priceditems that would workfor woodworkers on bothends of the spectrum.

Opening photos: Chad McClung


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woodcraftmagazine.com 23

Sharpening Systems

Stepping Up: Pfeil Swiss Made CabinetmakersBench Chisels, #05B54, $209.99Cra ed from the nest toolsteel and expertly ground, thesechisels are for the discrimina ngcra sman. The octagonal elmhandles are comfortable to hold,although they arent meant towithstand hammer blows. Qualitydoesnt come cheap, but bear inmind that this set will be handed-down to woodworking o spring.

Planes

Star ng Out: WoodRiverLow Angle Block Plane#151125, $99.99

A block plane belongs in everytool pouch and on everyworkbench. Unlike other benchplanes, the block plane can beused one-handed. This a ributemakes it handy for situa onswhere you dont have clampsor hold-downs. Block planesare also available with standardangle (20) beds, but the lower12 bed allows easier shavingof end grain. (If they alreadyhave the low-angle, treatthem to a standard-angle.)

Stepping Up: WoodRiver41 2 Smoothing Plane#158001, $169.99A woodworker who already

owns a hand plane or twomight be ready to forgoscrapers and sandpaper andpick up a smoothing plane forthe ul mate surface nish.With a 2 3 8"-wide iron and 10"-long sole, the #4 1 2 is regardedby many woodworkers astheir go-to nishing plane. TheBedrock-style frog adjustmentanchors the blade to

the sole, reducingcha er for super-smooth cuts.

Star ng Out: King 1000/6000Waterstone, #09C31, $37.99 ,and Honing Guide, #03A21, $14.99Heres an a ordable way tosharpen chisels and plane irons.Use the 1000x side to removesmall nicks and establish a beveland then use the 6000x side tohone a razor-sharp edge. The

honing guidetakes the hassle outof holding chisels and irons atthe constant angle. Simply clampthe blade or iron into the jig andthen wheel the jig over the stone.

Stepping Up: DMT 600/1200 Duo-Sharp, #817198, $134.99Diamonds like these are awoodworkers best friend.This dual-grit diamond bench

stone is perfect for all sorts ofchores, such as a ening the

backs of plane irons and chisels,sharpening all types of steel(O1, A2, and M2) and carbide,

and a ening dished stones.

Stocking Stufer: Granite Surface Plate, #144838 $34.99OK, it wont t into a stocking,but new and old woodworkersalike will appreciate nding thiscoal-colored lump under thetree. The super at face of the

9 12 2" block serves asan ideal base for levelingsmall plane soles, a eningwaterstones, and generalsharpening du es.


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An easy and a ordableintroduc on topocket-hole joinery. The R3 handles stock from 1 2"-1 1 2" thick.

To hold the jig to your workpiece, consider adding Kregs newestface clamp. Once set, the Automaxx automa cally adjusts toprovide consistent clamping pressure on stock up to 2 7 8" thick.


A pin nailers ability totack together stock thatlarger guns would turnto splinters makes it awelcome addi on even ina stocked shop. The pinscan secure parts while

the adhesive sets or hold pieces togethermore securely than double-s ck tape.

This is a cabinetmakers joinerysystem. The K5 can hold workpiecesfrom 1 2"-11 2" thick with uniform

pressure without adjus ngthe clampsimply slide the

clamp against the back of theworkpiece and then pull down onthe front toggle to lock it in place.The jig includes a guide block forse ng the drill-bit stop collar and a

Stepping Up: Grex23-Gauge Pin Nailer

#836279, $199.99

Stepping Up: Kreg Jig K5 PocketHole System, #158631, $139.99

Star ng Out: Freeman18-Gauge Brad Nailer,#415927, $69.99If the woodworker on your list has a compressor and is s llswinging a hammer, its me to get them a gun. An 18-gaugenailer is the go-to gun for assembling drawers, a achingface frames, and making jigs. The smaller 18-gauge bradsprovide almost as much holding power as 16-gauge nishnails but are less visible and less likely to split the wood.

The perfect gi for the woodworker who doesnot have the me (or inclina on) to build hisor her own bench. This tradi onal workbenchfeatures a solid beech top, dog holes, vises, andthe sturdiness to stand up to heavy hand-planingwithout racking. The vises can be posi onedto suit right- or le -handed woodworkers.

At the Bench

Star ng Out: VIKA TwoFoldWorkbench and Sca old#149184 $174.99This dual-faced, adjustable-height table is awhole-house worksta on: it can serve as aworkbench, a worksta on for bench-top tools,and even as a sca old. For those who cant yeta ord permanent shop space, the bench can befolded up and stowed away when the job is done.

Stepping Up: Sjbergs DuoWorkbench, #145896, $649.99

Pneuma cNailers

Pocket-Hole JigsStar ng Out: Kreg R3 Jig Jr.#147643, $39.99 ; AutomaxxClamp, #158503, $29.99


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Star ng Out: Bessey H-Series3 4" Pipe Clamps, #147892; $14.99 ,12" F-style Clamps, #146981, $10.99

Star ng Out: Rockwell 3RILL 12V Li-Ion Cordless Drill#849073, $129.99

Woodworkers never have enough clamps, butse ng a beginner up with a few pipe clampsand F-style clamps is a solid start. Pipe clampsa ach to any 3 4" pipe; extending their reachis as simple as purchasing another piece ofpipe. Besseys H-series clamps sport longlegs that keep them from pping over whileproviding handle clearance at the same me.F-style clamps are used not only for assemblybut also for holding workpieces to yourbench, or to jigs, for machining opera ons.

If youre not sure what chores a drill is des ned to do, consider adrill/driver that does it all. With a ick of a switch, the 3RILL can

apply 800 inch pounds of torque in impact mode to drive a lag boltor 3 inch pounds of force to nesse in a small screw. With a life mereplacement ba ery program, this drill wont let you down.

Even discrimina ng cabinetmaker-types willappreciate another pair of parallel jaw clamps.This clamp features impact- and glue-resistantheads and an internal frame that ensures thatthe heads remain perpendicular to the bar.Rail protec on pieces prevent workpiecesfrom ge ng stuck to the rail. In addi on, theheads can be reversed to spread parts apart.


Mul -Func on Drill/Drivers

Stepping Up: Bessey REVO ParallelJaw Clamp 40"pair, #14951, $115.98

Serious cabinetmakers and installers wouldappreciate a CXS because of its uniqueability to t where other drills cant. Thesuper-compact drill features a FastFix chuck

system that enables it to use a Centrotecchuck, a keyless chuck, or the right anglechuck for gaining access to ght spaces.

Stepping Up:Festool CXS Li-Ion 10.8V Cordless DrillMul -Chuck Set, #564274 $295Stocking Stufer:

SNAPPY 5-Piece Essen als Set#158795, $29.99A handy assortment of pop-in/pop-out drills, drivers, and

countersinks for general work,such as installing hardware, building jigs, and assembling cabinets.

quick-release drill guide block to ensureconsistently-spaced pocket holes. Theswiveling dust-collec on port and storagecompartments in the support wings makepocket-hole drilling a cleaner opera on,and it helps keep track of parts.

Clamps


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Change the way you build!Change the way you build!

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Water free means trouble free!


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Time is Money.Spend it Wisely.Designed with the professional woodworker in mind,

these Norton Red Heat belts utilize ceramic aluminagrain which allows them to have a superior cut rate toanything on the market.This ceramic grain micro-fractures during the sandingprocess, leaving a razor sharp edge throughout the lifeof the belt. And, its symmetrically-shaped design leavesa much finer scratch pattern compared to otherabrasives, allowing for an aggressive cut without deepscratches that might be seen after staining or finishing.Combine all of this with a heavy cotton backing and you

have ultimate durability and longevity.Norton Red Heat is used extensively in the sports/ gymnasium market where cut rate and durability arecritical, just like woodworking.

Spend less time sanding, increase your productivity and achieve greater results.Choose Norton Red Heat for your next project.

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Spend less time sanding, increase your productivity and achieve greaterChoose Norton Red Heat for your next project.

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Available in 3" 19", 3" 21", 4" 24", 4" 36" & 6" 48"


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Known Worldwide For Superb, Precise Pull-Stroke Wood Cutting Performance

Full Line Of Quality Saws, Including Many Types Suited To Specific Cutting Needs

A Smoother, More Accurate And Faster Cut And A Thinner Kerf In ComparisonTo Western-Type Saws

Japanese Saws Sink These Teeth Into Your Projects


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To follow through on the instruc ons, youll need thetools, cu ers, and other items shown in the photo below.(See also the Convenience-Plus Buying Guide.) For safety,include work gloves, face shield, ear protec on, and adust mask. Chips will y, and youll want full protec on!

Tools For The Job 1. Chainsaw witha 24" to 20" bar2. Marker3. T-bevel4. No.5 jack plane5. Bosch 4 1 2"

angle grinder6. Lancelot 14-tooth,

4"-dia., (roughing)wood carving disc

7. Holey Galahad4"-dia., round,medium (red),smoothing disc

8. Caliper

9. Merlin (Proxxon)power carver

10. Merlin 8-tooth,2"-dia. chain disc

11. Merlin 2"-dia.tungsten-carbidemedium disc

12. Portable drill13. In atable dome

sander (2 3 8 1 9 16") and sanding

sleeve, 60-grit14. Disc sanders15. Sanding strips

in various grits1

2

34

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

1213

14 15

Figure 1: Cu ng Sequence

End View

Figure 2: Bowl LayoutCut 1: Saw log to 18" to20" long, squaring the ends.

Cut 2: Markand slab o thelogs center.(Save the topsec on for asecond bowl.)

Cut 3: Mark depth ofbowl blank (about 4" to5"), and slab o bo om.

Cut 4: Bevel-cutthe tapered sides.

4-5"

(Wastecontainingpith)

4-5"

Side View

Cut 5: Mark andcut the taperedends and handles.

Handle Side View

10"-12"

3 4"18"-20"

1 2" referenceholes

21 4"

21 2"

(Bowlbo om) 10 1 2"

31 2" 4"-5"

Tapered sides

Interior bowlperimeter

11 2"

Round overcorners

Note: Hole depth=bowl height - 3 4". Taperinside walls by removing waste from interiorbowl perimeter to bowl bo om perimeter.Feather and blend inside corners. Roundover outside corners of the sides.

3 4"9 16"

1"-1 1 4"


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Dec/Jan 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 31Project photos: John Mode; Illustra ons: Charles Lockhart

the top faces of the bowl blanks.These should be square tothe ends of the bowl blank.4 Next, measure down fromthe bowl blanks top face 4" to4 1 2", and mark a parallel bottom

face. Mark a 10"- to 12"-widetop face on the bowl blank thatis centered between the blanksedges. Connect the lines using afelt-tip marker and straightedgewood strip. You want the bestwood the log has to offer foryour bowl, not the wane orpith. Now, with the blanks endagainst a strip screwed in place,slice off the rounded crown ofthe blank, creating a flat blankbottom that is parallel to thetop face, as indicated in Cut 3 .5 Cut and place a rectangularpiece of cardboard (about 5 20") on the bottom face ofthe blank and between thewaney edges. Strike paral lel

lines inside the wane along thecardboard piece to lay out thebowls 4" to 5" true bottom,as shown in Photo A . Lay outthe blanks top face, as well,with a pair of parallel lines

within the waney edges.6 Holding an adjusted slidingbevel against the blanksends, strike angled lines thatconnect the top face andbottom face lines, as shownin Photo B . These will serveas guidelines for cutting thetapered sides of the bowl blank.7 Place the blank top face downon a pair of scrap spacers, and,with the chainsaw bar angled,cut the tapered blank sides, asshown in Photo C and Cut 4 .8 Lay out the interiorperimeter rectangle on theblanks top face, referencingFigure 2 . Referencing Figure 1 ,lay out the handles and

tapered ends of the bowlblank, as shown in Photo D .9 Now, with one end of the blankwedged snugly against a cleatthat is screwed to the table andthe other end elevated, make

a pair of cuts to rough-forma handle and tapered end, asshown in Photo E and Cut 5 .Repeat to cut the other bowlblank end in the same manner.10 Moving inside and usinga hand plane, belt sander, or8" jointer, f latten the bottomface of the blank, as shownin Photo F , making it parallelwith the top face and ensuringit sits without rocking.11 Lay out a centered insiderectangle on the blanks topface that represents the insidebottom of the bowl, whereshown in Figure 2 . Note thatthe bowl walls must remain 3 4"thick along all tapered sides.

A B

C D

Cardboardtemplate to layout bo om.


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referred to as a smoothing cutand requires no pressure. Repeatto smooth the other tapered side.2 Now, work the ends. Securethe workpiece to your bench,and then smooth the tapered

ends, as shown in Photo I ,working the cutter from thebowl bottom to the bottomface of the handle. Again, justbarely touch the surface.3 Cut a piece of scrap plywoodto 16 16", ensuring it is lat.Now, with a medium viscosityCA glue and activator, attachthe blank right-side up to theplywood, pressing its lat(planed) bottom to the plywood,as shown in Photo J . Note thatCA glue will adhere to dampor oily wood. (If you own acarvers work positioner with afaceplate and screws, considerusing it in place of the plywood.)Now, secure this work-holding

plywood to a bench with a viseand bench dogs or clamps.4 With the same 14-tooth chaindisc and right-angle grinder,hog out the waste to form thebowls interior. Here, you want

to make chopping cuts bydipping or plunging the cutterinto the center of the bowl, asshown in Photos K and L. Here,wear gloves to protect yourhands from the lying debris.Expect to take several minutesdipping the cutter into the blank,working across the grain irst,and then cutting with the grain,staying within the layout lines.Concentrate irst on the centerof the large rectangle, beingmindful that the sides taper tothe bottom, indicated by the fourperimeter drill holes. Use thedrill depth holes as guides fordetermining if youve reachedthe bowls interior bottom.

5 Once you removed the bulkof the waste in the bowlsinterior, make smoothing cuts,as described earlier, to cleanup the tapered walls and theinterior bottom while working

I

M

J

K

L


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up to the outside rectangularcut lines, as shown in Photo M .

Use a caliper to check that thesidewall thickness remains ataround 3 4", as shown in Photo N .

Trim down any high corners of thebowls top edges to make them thesame height all around. Redrawany layout lines if necessary.(Later, with further trimmingand sanding, your finished wall

thickness will be5 8

" thick.)6 Lay out the centered bowlhandles, as shown in Figure 2 .Then, use chopping andsmoothing cuts to sculpt a handleat each end, as shown in Photo O .7 Switch to a smaller right-angle grinder with a Merlin2"-diameter, 8-tooth chaincutter, and trim and feather thebowls inside corners, as shownin Photo P , as well as furtherrefining the bowl handles.8 Switch to a Holey Galahad4"-diameter tungsten carbidedisc, and go over all the interiorsurfaces within reach for furthersmoothing and transitioning

of inside corners and handleedges, as shown in Photo Q .Use a light touch to smoothaway any remaining chainsawmarks. This carbide discworks well for tighter areas.

9 Using a hammer, pop theblank loose from the plywoodwork holder. Now, flip thebowl upside down, secure itin your bench, and smooththe exterior with the same4"-diameter abrasive disc thatyou used in the previous step.10 Continue refining andsmoothing the exteriorsurfaces of the bowl. Use theMerlin 8-tooth chain discto further detail, and roundover the handles, as shownin the Handle Side View inFigure 2 and Photo R .11 Switch to a 2"-diametertungsten-carbide medium disc,

N O

P

Q R


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and go over the entire pieceagain, from the inside bowl wallsand transitions to softening theoutside tapered corners to the

handles, as shown inPhoto S

.12 Let the bowl dry for a fewdays. Then, install an in latabledome sander and 80-grit sandingsleeve in a drill, and sand allthe transition areas and tightspots, as shown in Photo T .Use disc sanders to furthersmooth the surface. As youre ine the bowl, power-sand aschedule of grits through 320.

13 For hard-to-get areas, use

strips of sandpaper to remove

machine marks and other unevenareas, as shown in Photo U .Pull the sandpaper strips backand forth to achieve the desired

smoothness. Once completelysanded, let the bowl sit for fouror ive days to fur ther dry.(As long as Ive been makingbowls, Ive not had any crack.)14 Finally, wipe all the inedust off your dough bowl,and apply an appropriate

inish. (I wiped on OdiesOil, but Danish oil or walnut,almond, or saf lower oilwould also help beautify andpreserve the wood.)

S T

U

About OurDesigner/BuilderA lifelongresident ofNewland,NorthCarolina,Alan Hollar

has turned and carved woodbowls and other items da ngback to the mid 1980s. Hisimagina ve works can befound on display and for saleat many Southern HighlandGuild galleries. Contact himat [email protected] .

Convenience- PLUS BUYING GUIDE 1. Bosch 4 1 2" Paddle Switch Angle Grinder #835918 $99.99

2. S ck Fast CA Finish, Med., 2.5 oz. #850358 $7.99

3. S ck Fast Ac vator, 7.5 oz. #839150 $8.99

4. Lancelot Wood Carving Discs, 14-Tooth,4" Dia. Chain Disc, 5 8" Arbor #04D02 $52.50

5. King Arthur Holey Galahad,Round, Med., Red, 4"-Dia. #149990 $86.99

6.

Merlin Power Carver, Complete Kit, Incl. ProxxonLong-Neck Mini Grinder; 8-Tooth, 2"-Dia. Chain Disc;TungstenCarbide Disc; Sil icon-Carbide GrindingWheel; 100-Grit Flap Sander; Cut-O Wheel; Case

#145644 $249.99

7. Guinevere In atable Dome Sander, 2 3 8" 19 16" #147535 $43.99

8. Assorted In atable Dome Sander Sleeves #147536 $14.69

9. Hand Pump (for In atable Dome Sander) #147547 $12.59

10. Odies Oil, Clear, 2 oz. #157861 $11.99

Above items are available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com or by calling (800) 225-1153.Prices subject to change without notice.


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Every kid loves a toy chestto stow treasures in, and thisdesign provides delight. With itscolorful exterior and curved lid,it makes a fun, bold statementin any childs room. But the realmagic here happens when itstime to put the toys in the atticand move on to more grown-upgear. In less than ive minutes, youcan transform a brightly coloredplayroom piece into a statelyblanket chest that will be at homein any bedroom, den, or livingroom. All it takes is a quick lip ofthe panels. (See sidebar, page 37.)

This is a deceptively easychest to build. At its core, itsjust a plywood box. The classylooking faux frame-and-panelconstruction is created by gluingsolid wood trim to the faces ofthe box. Although the lid mimicsa fancy coopered panel, theres nofussy edge-beveling here. Instead,the slats are glued to curvedplywood ribs before attachingbattens that accept the narrowreversible panels. And dont worryabout pinched lil ingers: the lidlifts easily, stays open securely,and closes slowly and safely.

Build the plywood box1 Cut the sides (A, B) to thedimensions shown in the CutList . Leave the bottom (C) about1 16" oversized in both widthand length for now; youll trimit to inal dimensions oncethe sides are assembled.2 Smooth all inside faces through220 grit, and then mask off all theglue areas with removable tape.Apply three to four coats of 2-lb.-cut shellac, wiping on each coatwith long, overlapping strokes.(I use shellac inside the chestbecause it leaves a neutral scent.)

Treasure

Chest This toy box matures into a blanket chest with a ip of its panels.By Andy Rae

Overall dimensions:34"w 20"d 21 3 4"h


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Dec/Jan 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 37Opening photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Project photos: Andy Rae; Illustra ons: Christopher Mills

After each coat dries, scuff-sand it with 320-grit sandpaper,except for the next-to-last coat,which gets rubbed out with0000 steel wool. After applyingthe final coat, let it dry, andthen rub with the grain usinggenerous amounts of pastewax on a 0000 steel wool pad.After aggressively wiping awaythe excess with a clean, softcloth, your finish should shineand feel silky to the touch.3 To ease final assembly, firstdry-clamp the four sides (A,B)together, and drill 2"-deep pilot

Flipping the PanelsWhen toys get replaced by boysorgirlsits me to update your kidsdcor. Reverse the outer panelsof this toy box andPresto!itmatures into adult furniture.

Raise the panels in the main boxsec on by poking through the accessholes in the lower rails using a bambooskewer or other 1 8"-diameter implement.To reverse the lid panels, push each oneout, ip it end for end, and slide it backin its slots. Magnets buried in the paneland frame automa cally align the parts.

Figure 1: Treasure Chest

Handle Detail

#10 Biscuit

Con nuous hinge

1 8" chamfer

1 16" chamfer

1 8" chamfer

1 4" rabbet,1 4" deep

Drill 9 64"-dia. holethrough rail atbo om centerof every panel.

Lid stay

Lid bumper

6"5 8"

1 4"

Push panel out ofslots, ip end forend, and reinsert.

Push panels upout of slots using1 8"-diameter dowel.

Cut out and tape to bo om of chest.


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holes through the long sides

and into the edges of the shortsides. Then disassemble the box,enlarge the pilot holes in thelong sides with a 7 64 "-diameterbit, and countersink them for#8 screws. Add glue, reclampthe parts, and screw themtogether with #8 2" screws( Photo A ). (Before you set thebox aside, measure for square.)4 Measure the outsidedimensions of the assembledsides (A, B), and cut thebottom (C) to fit. Attach it asbefore with clamps, glue, andscrews ( Photo B ). Because

the bottom is squared, it willautomatically square up the box.

Make the box trim1 Mill the leg pieces (D) to thethickness and length shownin the Cut List , leaving themslightly oversized in width.Bevel one edge to 45 on thetablesaw, sett ing the fence sothe ripped stock will be 2" wideat the tip of the bevel. Checkthe joint fit by holding two

mitered leg pieces togetheragainst a corner of the chest.2 Next, youll make the shortand long top rails (E, F), creatingtheir panel slots by rippingeach oversized rail blank intothree strips, crosscutting thecenter strip into sections, andthen regluing the pieces backtogether, as shown in Figure 2 .Start by initially sawing 13 16"-thick stock into rail blanksthat are at least 3 8" wider and a


Add glue to the joints, clamp the box, anddrive the screws home. You can remove theclamps as soon as the screws are in.

Glue the four rails together at thesame me, using scrapwood spacers to establish the panel slots. Waxthe spacers to ensure easy release.

With the box upside down on shop-made risers,add glue, and then clamp the bo om even withthe box sides before adding the screws.

A

C

B

Tip AlertFor aesthe cs, I chamfer the edges of the trim pieces before assembly.Cut the widest chamfers, like those on the legs and top and bo om rails,on the router table using a chamfer bit. For smaller chamfers, a blockplane does the job. For tricky grain or hard-to-reach areas, use 180-gritsandpaper glued to a at block of MDF.

Figure 2: Top Rail Construc on6" Spacer 1 4 3 4 6" Center strip

7 8"1 4"

3 3 8"

3 3 8" 8 1 4"

1 1 4"

1 1 4"

Inner face3 4"

Spacer 1 4 3 4 8 1 4"

Draw realignment trianglesbefore ripping rail into strips.

Spacer


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couple of inches longer than theinished sizes for the top rails

(E, F) shown in the Cut List .3 Draw a triangle across theface of each rail blank to allowreassembling the pieces in thesame orientation for the best

grain match after ripping. Thenrip each blank into three piecesthat are each slightly wider thanthe inished widths shown inFigure 2 . Use a thickness planerto clean up the saw marks, andbring the strips to inished width.4 Crosscut the center strips tothe lengths shown in Figure 2 ,again marking the stripsfor reorientation later.

5 Glue each three-piece top rail(E, F) together using scrap woodspacers to establish the panelslots ( Photo C ). After the gluedries, remove the spacers, andplane the rails to inal thickness.(For ef iciency and accuracy, nowis a good time to mill the shortand long lid rails (K, L) to inalthickness and width, leaving themoversized in length for now.)

6Make the side and center

stiles (G, H) to the thickness andwidth shown in the Cut List ,but leave the pieces slightlyoversized in length for now. Routa 1 4" 1 4" rabbet in one edge ofeach side stile (G) and in bothedges of each center stile (H).7 Mill the short and long bottomrails (I, J) to the thickness

and width shown in the CutList , but leave them slightlyoversized in length for now.

Apply the trim1 Join each pair of legs (D) withclear tape along their show faces.With the box upside down on thebench, spread glue on the bevelsand along the inside faces of thelegs, fold each assembly square,and press it over the corner of thebox. I used six 1 3 8" pin nails tohold each leg assembly in placewhile the glue dried ( Photo D ).2 Close up any gaps by rubbinga burnisher or other smooth,round piece of metal over themiters to squash the adjacent

ibers together ( Photo E ).

3 Mark the center of a long rail(F), measure outward to half ofthe inished length shown in theCut List , lay out the miter, and cutit. Then clamp the rail to the box,aligning the inside walls of thepanel slots with the outside wallsof the box, as shown in Figure 3 .(This ensures your panels willslide in and out without binding.)

4Cut the mating miter on

the adjacent short rail (E), andcheck the it of the joint, againwith the rail slots lush to thebox walls. If necessary, adjustthe it of the miter. I typically

ine-tune miters with a blockplane, holding the work in asimple jig clamped in a benchvise ( Figure 4 and Photo F ).

Tape along the leg bevels, addglue, and fold the leg over thecorner of the chest . Pin nails willclamp the leg un l the glue sets.

While the glue is s ll wet, removethe tape and rub a burnisheralong the joint to close any gaps.

DE

Figure 3: Mitering the Box Rails1) Miter and ft frst corner. Long top rail (F)

Align inside faces ofslots with outsidefaces of box.

Center slotson box side

4) Cut and ftmiters on last rail.

Short toprail (E)

Top edge of box

2) Miter and ftsecond corner.

3) Cut miter on third rail.

Clear tape


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5 When satis ied with the itof the joint, clamp the shorttop rail (E) in place, and markfor the miters on the opposite

ends of both rails ( Photo G ).Then cut to your marks.6 As shown in Figure 3 , miterand it the other long top rail(F) in the same manner. Set theremaining unmitered top shortrail (E) aside for the moment.7 Cut #10 biscuit slots in allthe miters you just cut. Tomake the job easy, clampyour miter-assist jig to yourbenchtop with the end of arail lush with an end of thejig. Attach a 1 2"-thickplywood sub-base to yourbiscuit joiner, and youreready to go ( Photo H ).

8 Rout a 1 32 "-deep 1 2"-widestopped mortise in the rearlong top rail ( F) to accept thecontinuous (piano) hinge. Set a1 2

" rabbeting bit to project1 32

"from your router tabletop, andmark the fence for the beginningand end of the cut. Mark the startline 2 1 16" to the left of the bitperimeter and the stop line 2 1 16"to the right of the perimeter. (Thissetup stops the cut 1 16" shy of eachmortise end as a safety measure.)Begin the cut by pivoting the workinto the bit so the tip of the mitercontacts the start line ( Photo I ).When the trailing miter tip meets

the stop line,pivot thework awayfrom the bit.

9 While the router table is set upfor the job, also rout the matingmortise in the lids rear rail ( L)after mitering the rai ls ends.

10 Square the ends of themortises with a chisel, andcheck the it of the hingeon the box and lid rails.11 Glue and clamp the threemitered top rails (E, F) to thechest ( Photo J ). Again, itsnot critical that the insidesurfaces of the rail and box are

lush with each other; whatis important is that the insidewalls of the panel slots are lushwith the outside of the box.12 As shown in Figure 3 , itthe remaining short top rail (E),making trial miter cuts untilthe joints mate perfectly. Then

Figure 4: Miter Assist Jig

You can either trim an errant miter to a perfect 45angle with this jig or adjust the angle in small degrees.

Clamp the mitered ends of the rails to thechest, and mark the opposite ends by pressinga square against the inside of the chest.

The miter-assist jig will solidly hold each railin place for accurate, safe biscuit slo ng.

F

GH

Fence1 2 1 1 8"

1) A er cu ng jigparts to size, nail andglue rst rail to basewith edges aligned.

Top rail Plywood base1 2 4 1 4 4 1 8"

2) Pinching railbetween fences,glue and nailsecond rail in place.

3) Miter endsof jig to 45.

Plywoodsubbase


43/84

cut the biscuit slots, and glueand clamp the piece in place.13 Crosscut the bottom rails(I, J) for a perfect it between

the legs. Lay out the locations ofthe 9 64 "-diameter access holeson the rails between each pairof stiles (G, H), where shownin Figure 1 , and then drill thethrough-holes on the drill press.14 With the box upside down,glue and clamp the bottom rails(I, J) in place without nails.15 Crosscut the side and centerstiles (G, H) to it tightly betweenthe top and bottom rails.16 Attach the side stiles(G) with glue and 1" pins.17 Glue and pin the centerstiles (H) in place. To ensureaccurate positioning, place themagainst the edges of carefullysquared spacer panels madeof 1 8" hardboard ( Photo K ).

Make the spacer panels wideenough to it precisely between

each opposing pair of stile rabbetshoulders, using the panel (U,V) widths shown in the CutList as a starting reference.However, make the spacer panels18" long for easier handling.

Make the lid1 Notch the lids long rails (K, L)on the tablesaw with the bladetilted to 26, as shown inFigure 5 . Make sure tosaw into the top face of therear railnot into the facewith the hinge mortise.2 To ensure that the lid alignswith the box, test- it the lid railmiter joints while the rail piecessit atop the assembled box rails.When everything aligns well, cutthe biscuit slots in the miters.

3 Unlike the box top rails(E, F), the lid rails (K, L) mustcome together all at once. Usethe box top rail frame as aplatform for gluing up the lidframe. Apply wide tape overthe box frame joints to preventgluing the two frames together.Use F-style clamps to initiallyposition the frame members,and then weave a band clampthrough the clamps to drawthe miters tight ( Photo L ).4 Lengthen the V-notch in eachlong rail (L) so that it extends3 4" into each short rail (K), asshown in Photo M . I penciled theoutline and then pared to it witha chisel. Dont fuss, as the ribsand the battens will eventuallycover up your handiwork.


Start and stop lines on the router table fenceregister the ends of the rail travel whenmor sing for the con nuous hinge.

Spacer panels of 1 8" hardboard allow accurate posi oning of the centers les, which will ensure a perfect t of the nished panels youll make later.

With all but the last two miters ed,glue and clamp the three mitered railsto the box, and pin them in place.

I

K

J

Tip AlertTo conceal small cracks and holes,mix sanding dust with enough2-lb.-cut shellac to make a wet(but not runny) mixture. Spreadthe ller into the recess, andthen sand it ush a er it dries.The repair will disappear a erapplying a few coats of nish.

Hardboardspacer panel

Start line

Long top rail (F)Long lid rail (L)

Stop line


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5 Use a knife to lay out thecross rail (M) notches in thelong rails (L). Rout the notchesto depth, staying inside yourknifed lines ( Photo N ). Thenclean up to the lines with a chisel.

6Make the cross rails (M) to the

size shown in the Cut List , andcut a 1 4"-deep 1 2"-long rabbetin each end. Glue and clamp thecross rails (M) to the lid frame.After the glue dries, pare theends of each cross rail lush with

the adjacent V-groove wall.7 Make the small plywoodribs (N), pattern-sawing themon the bandsaw, as shownin the sidebar on page 43.

Figure 6: Cross Rail Connec on

Use loosely set F-style clampsto posi on the lid rails on thebox rails while pulling the miters

ght with a band clamp.

A er assembling the frame, usea chisel to extend the V-notch3 4" into each adjacent rail.

A 1 8" straight bit in a laminatetrimmer lets you rout closely intothe corners of the cross rail notchesbefore nishing up with a chisel.

Center the two small middle ribs on the cross rails, and gluethe two small outer ribs ush with the inside of the frame.

LM

N

O

Figure 5: Rippingthe V-notch

Angle blade to 26 onhe saws bevel gauge.

Adjust fence and bladen l second cut preciselyntersects the rst.

Long Lid Rail (L)

1) Makerst rip with

rail ver cal.

2) Make secondrip with railhorizontal.

1 2"

3 4"

Pare tongue ushwith V-groove.

Top face oflid frame

99 16"

1 4" rabbet,1 2" deep

Notch1

2" w 3

4" l 3

8"d


45/84


8 Attach the small ribs(N) to the frame with glueand clamps ( Photo O ).9 Mill the slats (O) to thethickness and length shownin the Cut List , selectingstraight-grained stock forstability. Rip them about 1 32 "oversized in width for now.

10 Tuck the outermost slat sin their respective notches,and then dry- it all of theslats in place, butting theiredges tight to each other. Trimthe edges of each one a bit ,if necessary, to seat them all

irmly on the ribs. Then attachthem to the ribs ( Photo P ).

11 Pattern-saw the large ribs(P) from solid stock. Test- itthem to ensure they align withthe highest points on the slatswithout extending any further,which could cause the panelsto bind going in. Fine-tune thecurve if necessary, shapingand smoothing the ribs with

Figure 7: Rib Layout

Add a spot of glue to each rib, and then drivetwo pins through each slat into each rib.

P

Making mul ple iden cal partson your bandsaw is easy with this

jig and a plywood pa ern of yourdesired shape. Make the jig, andou it your saw with a 1 2" 4-tpi

blade (which provides a be ercu ng sight line than a narrowerblade.) Temporarily tack or tapethe plywood pa ern to your stock,and clamp the jig to your bandsawfence. Locate the nose block about

1 8" above the work, and adjust thefence so the blocks contact pointsits even with, or slightly past, theblade. Then posi on the jig foreor a un l the block sits about1

16" in front of the blades teeth.To make the cut, press thepa ern against the nose block

while steering the work sothat the edge of the pa ernremains parallel to the bladeat all mes. Dont be surprisedif you unwi ngly saw into

the nose block. That s why itsremovable. Just make a newone and keep on sawing.

Patern-Sawing On The Bandsaw

Pa ern-Sawing JigBrace3 4 3 3 1 2"Knob with

1 4-20 studPlywood fence1 2 3 3 4 15" Plywood outer guide

1 4 7 8 5 1 2"

Plywoodinner guide1 4 7 8 5"

Fenderwasher

Nut

Nose block1 2 2 3"

Plywood support1 2 5 5"

Plywood base1 2 6 15"

2"

8 1 8"

1 square = 1 2"

8 11 16"

2 1 4"


46/84


a disc or belt sander. Thenhand-sand through 220 grit.12 Glue and pin the large ribs(P) to the outermost small

ribs (N) and the frame.13 Mill the T-battens andend battens (Q, R) to thedimensions in the Cut List .14 Rout the edge rabbets in thebattens (Q, R) on the router tableusing a rabbeting bit adjusted fora 5 16"-deep cut. (See Figure 8 .)Make sure to rout only oneedge of each end batten (R).Then rip the 26 bevel on eachend batten on the tablesaw.15 Cut the end rabbets on allthe battens using the bandsaw.First, set the fence 5 16" from theblade, and make a 3 16"-long ripcut with the top of the battenpressed against the fence. Thenmark one of the battens 3 16"

from the end, use the piece toreset the fence to this cutline,and saw away the remainingwaste on all the battens while

supporting the workpiece onedge against a squared block.16 Finish-sand the battens(Q, R) through 220 grit, andsand or plane a 1 16" chamfer onthe top edges and ends. Drill1 4"-diameter counterbores,1 8"-deep, as well as clearanceholes for #7 1 5 8" trim-headscrews in the T-battens (Q),locating them at the smallrib intersections. Dont drillthe end battens (R).17 Use glue and pin nails toattach the two end battens(R) to the front and backrails (L), aligning each untilthe lower edge of its rabbetcontacts the lowest slat.

18 Its crucial to align theT-battens (Q) parallel to eachother and at the same distanceapart. To do this, rip six 30"-long

spacers of equal width from1 8

"hardboard, test-fitting thembetween the battens until all fittightly. (Youll have to experimentwith the correct rip setting foryour saw, but a good startingpoint is 2 5 8".) When everythingfits well, glue and screw thebattens to the lid ( Photo Q ).19 Cut 1 4"-diameter plugson the drill press using a plugcutter, and then glue them intothe counterbores. When theglue is dry, pare and sand theplugs flush with the battens.20 Make the handle (T)to the shape shown in theFigure 1 Handle Detail , gentlycurving the ends on the bandsaw.Invert the lid, and glue and clampthe handle to the front rail (L),centering the handle across therails length and thickness.

A ach the lid to the box

1 Place the continuous hingein its mortise in the rear lidrail (L). Temporarily attachit with three equidistantlyplaced screws driven into3 32 "-diameter pilot holes.2 Mark box on the backof the free hinge leaf, andremove the hinge from the

Use hardboard spacers to posi on the ba ens parallel and equidistantto each other, and then glue and screw them to the underlying ribs.

Q

Figure 8: Rabbe ng and Beveling the Ba ens

Router tablefence

1) Rout a rabbet inone edge of each ofthe two end ba ens.

2) Using thesame setup, routopposing rabbetsin each T-ba en.

3) Rip a bevel on what will be thebo om face of each end rabbet.

5 16"

1 4"

Tablesawrip fence

Angle bladeto 26 on thesaws bevelgauge.

Adjust fence soblade intersectsend of rabbet.

Orient showface of ba enagainst fence.


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lid. Then attach the hinge tothe box in the same manner.3 Elevate the inverted lidon a platform next to thebox (or have a helper hold it)while you reattach the hingeleaf to the lid with the three

screws. Close the l id and checkthe it. Make any necessaryadjustments by lengtheningthe hinge mortise and drillingfor screws in new locations.Once everything checks out,drill and install the remainingscrews in the lid and box.4 Make the lid stay blocks(S), as shown in Figure 9 ,bandsawing and sanding

the curve, as necessary, tomatch the curve of the lid.5 Screw the lid stay platesto the box and the lid stayblocks, locating them, whereshown in Figure 10 .

Make and installthe panels1 Mill the box and lid panel (U,V, W) stock to thickness, usingscrap to check for a sliding itthrough the top rail (E, F) slotsand their respective stile (G, H)rabbets, as well as the rabbetsin the lid battens (Q, R).

2 Cut the panels a bit narrowerthan the width of the space

and about1 2

" longer thanthe size shown in the CutList . Dont ease over anyof the edges yet, as a sharpedge helps restrain dye frommigrating to an adjacent edge.

Figure 9: Lid Stay Block

Dyes are available in solvent (liquid) form or as apowder that you mix with a solvent. Several recentlydeveloped powder dyes can be mixed with eitherwater or alcohol. I prefer water-based dye for wipingbecause its longer dry me helps prevent lap marks,which o en occur when wiping or brushing on faster-drying alcohol-based dyes. (When spraying, it doesntma er much.) Plus, water-based dyes resist fadingbe er. Keep in mind that many dyesespeciallythe powder typeare caus c, so wear gloves, eyeprotec on, and a respirator rated for vapors.

Follow these guidelines whenusing water-based dye: Prepare the surface by sanding through 220 grit

to ensure clear color and grain and to preventmuddiness. Then pre-raise the grain by we ngthe surface with clean water and sanding againwith 220 grit a er the water evaporates.

Flood the surface with dye using a foam brush.Work in the direc on of the grain, overlappingyour strokes and pulling the brush completelyo the end of the work. Avoid puddles.

Once the dye has dried, apply the rst coat ofyour favorite clear nish. When thats dry, rub

lightly with the grain using 0000 steel woolor a white synthe c abrasive pad. Dont fretif the color looks dull and blotchy; successivecoats will add depth, luster, and clarity.

Apply the second, third, and fourth coats of nish,rubbing with 0000 steel wool or a white padbetween coats, but not a er the nal coat. Four tosix coats should do it, depending on the thicknessof each coat. More coats add depth, but too manycan diminish that close-to-the-wood look.

Color To Dye For

2"

17 8"

13 8

"

90

3 4" 15

Trace curveusing smallrib template.

Figure 10: LidStay Moun ng

Center stayplate across lidstay block.

21 2"

31 2"

23 8"


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3 Mark the magnet locations,centering them across thethickness of the large ribs (P),and between the battens (Q, R).Also mark the correspondinglocations at the ends of oneface of each lid panel (W).

4 Drill the3

16"-deep magnetholes in the ribs using a handdrill and a 3 8" Forstner orbrad-point bit ( Photo R ).5 Drill the 3 16"-deep magnetholes in the lid panels (W) usinga 3 8" Forstner or brad-pointbit in the drill press. (Warning:If your bit has a long center point that may poke throughthe opposite panel face, grind

or ile it down before drilling.)6 Spin a 3 8" plug cutter on thedrill press to make face-grainplugs in matching stock for theholes in the lid panels (W) andthe large ribs (P). Saw themto a thickness of about 3 8".7 Dab epoxy into each holebefore inserting a 3 8" rare-earth magnet. To ensure correctpolarity for panel reversal,orient the magnets, as shownin Figure 11 . (To keep track oftheir polarities, first mark all 24magnets on the same polarizedface with a permanent marker.)Before the epoxy sets, spreadsome yellow or white glue into theholes and onto the plugs beforetapping the plugs home ( Photo S ).8 After the glue cures, trimthe plugs flush and sand thesurfaces through 220 grit.

9 Dye one side of all the panels.(See sidebar on page 45.)

Treasure Chest Cut ListPart Thickness Width Length Qty. Matl

Box

A Short sides 3 4" 16 5 16" 16 5 16" 2 BP

B Long sides 3 4" 16 5 16" 31 3 4" 2 BP

C* Bo om 3 4" 17 3 4" 31 3 4" 1 BP

Box trim

D* Legs 15 16" 2" 17 1 4" 8 C

E** Short top rails 3 4" 1 7 8" 20" 2 C

F** Long top rails3

4" 17

8" 34" 2 CG* Side s les 9 16" 1 1 2" 15 9 16" 8 C

H* Center s les 9 16" 1 3 4" 15 9 16" 6 C

I* Short bo om rails 3 4" 1 1 2" 15 5 8" 2 C

J* Long bo om rails 3 4" 1 1 2" 29 5 8" 2 C

Lid

K Short rails 3 4" 1 7 8" 20" 2 C

L Long rails 3 4" 1 7 8" 34" 2 C

M Cross rails 5 8" 3 4" 17 1 4" 2 C

N Small ribs 3 4" 2" 16 1 4" 4 BP

O Slats 1 4" 1 1 2" 31 3 4" 12 M

P Large ribs3 4

" 21 4

" 173 8

" 2 CQ T-ba ens 5 8" 1" 33 5 8" 5 C

R End ba ens 5 8" 1" 33 5 8" 2 C

S Lid stay block 13 8" 1 7 8" 2" 2 M

T Handle 7 16" 5 8" 6" 1 M

Panels

U* Small box panels 1 4" 6" 16 1 4" 4 M

V* Large box panels 1 4" 8 1 4" 16 1 4" 6 M

W* Lid panels 1 4" 2 5 8" 33 7 16" 6 M

* Indicates parts are ini ally cut oversized. See instruc ons.** Indicates parts were made of more than one piece.Materials: BP=Birch Plywood, C=Cherry, M=Maple

Figure 11: Aligning the Magnets

Tip AlertFor perfectly ng thin plugs,use a tapered plug cu er on thedrill press, drilling only 1 4" or sointo your stock to keep the plugsfat enough to ensure a snug t.

1. Arrange lid panels (W) for pleasing grain.2. Drill 3 8"-dia. 3 16"-deep holes for magnets.3. At one end of lid, install all magnets withnorth pole faces oriented upward.4. At opposite end, install all magnets withsouth pole faces oriented upward.

South pole facesup (right side)

North pole faces

up (le side)


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10 Crosscut the panels(U, V, W) square andto finished length.11 Rip the box panels (U,V) about 1 16" narrower thanthe width of the rail slotsand the lid panels about 1 32 "narrower than their openings.12 Apply your preferredfinish. Remember to use anodorless finish, such as shellac,for the inside of the lid.13 Once the finish is dry,stick a couple of bumpers onthe underside of the frontlid rail (L), and turn theknurled knobs on the staysto adjust their resistancefor a soft lid closure.

Convenience- PLUS BUYING GUIDE 1. Blonde Shellac Flakes, 1 2 lb. #158261 $35.99

2. Chamfer Bit, 45 #129675 $16.19

3. #10 Biscuits 28 pc. #153576 $2.75

4. Piano Hinge, 1 1 16" 48" #152157 $17.99

5. Rabbe ng Bit, 1 2" #837593 $32.47

6. Band Clamp #111210 $10.99

7. Spiral Upcut Straight Bit, 1 8" #12W52 $15.99

8. Trim-Head Screws, #7 1 5 8" 100 pc. #620130 $7.99

9. Tapered Plug Cu ers, 1 4" and 3 8" #146724 and#830818$11.59$15.99

10. 3 8" Rare-Earth Magnets 10 pc. (24 needed) #150950 $8.39

11. Transfast Dye, Cardinal Red #123835 $11.49

12. Transfast Dye, Orange #123832 $11.49

13. Transfast Dye, Lemon Yellow #123837 $11.49

14. Transfast Dye, Dark Green #123829 $11.49

15. Transfast Dye, Blue #123833 $11.49

16. White Abrasive Pad #146748A $1.49

17. Self-adhesive Bumpers, 24 pcs. #153561 $3.29

Above items are available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com or by calling (800) 225-1153.Prices subject to change without notice.

18. Lid Stays #00U0601 $39.60 pr.

Above items are available at leevalley.com , or by calling (800) 871-8158. Prices subject to change without notice.

19. 1 8" Bamboo Skewers

Above items are available at your local supermarket.

About Our Designer/BuilderAndy Rae works and

writes aboutwoodworkingfrom his home inthe mountains ofwestern NorthCarolina, wherenothin but woodcould be ner.

Drill the 3 16"-deep magnet holes using a 3 8"Forstner bit marked 3 16" up from its cu ng edge.Stop drilling when the mark disappears.

With each magnet marked for polarity, install it witha dab of epoxy, and then glue in the wood plug.

RS


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51/84

final oval shape as the bands dry.To make the cores and shapers,download the patterns at www.woodcraftmagazine.com/magpatterns.html . Apply theshaper patterns to a 3 4" pieceof plywood, and bevel-cut theiredges at 10 at the bandsaw.Sand the bevels smooth at thedisc sander. Drill 1 1 4" ventilationholes where shown to helpdry the formed oval hoops.

Dec/Jan 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 49Opening photo: Morehead Photography; Project photos: John Wright; Illustra ons: Frank Rohrbach III

Figure 1: Shaker Box Exploded View

Tip AlertFor a long las ng set of ngertemplates, apply the pa erns toaluminum ashing and cut themto shape.

Figure 2: Shop-Made Anvil

Top ( 1 4"-thick cherry)

Box band

Bo om ( 1 4"-thick cherry)

4

Toothpick

Tack

5 64" holes1 16" bevel on ngeredges and end

1 16" hole

Clinched Tack Detail

Bevel-sand 3 4" infrom square end.

11 2" galvanizedpipe, 18" long

R=7 8"

5 8"

5 8"2"

Ver cal support2 4, 13 1 2" long

Base2 6, 18 1 2" long

1 2" mor se

11 2"

1 2 3 8" tenon,11 4" long


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53/84


5 Drill tack holes through theband ingers where markedwith a 1 16" drill bit, as shownin Photo D . Use a backerboardto prevent splintering.6 Taper-sand the outside face ofthe square ends of the box and lidbands with a disc sander to a inepoint, as shown in Photo E. I holda pencil eraser to the end beingsanded to keep my ingers out ofharms way. Sand evenly acrossthe face to about 3 4" in from theend. This allows the squareends to blend smoothly wherethey are overlapped by the

inger ends. (See Figure 1 .)It also makes for a neater itwhen the tops and bottoms areinserted. You dont want lightshining through the seams.7 Build the simple anvilshown in Figure 2 from 2-bystock and an 18"-long length

of 1 1 2"-diameter galvanizedpipe. The pipe rests in thecradle and lifts out whenslipping on an oval hoop.8 Place a metal boiling box on aheat source (such as an electrichot plate or camping stove), and

ill it two-thirds full of water. Ifheating water this way seemsunsafe inside, do it outside.)Heat the water to boiling.Soften the bands by droppingthem in the boiling water, asshown in Photo F. Keep themin there for a minimum of 20minutes. Leave the bands yourenot working on in the boilingwater so they remain pliable.9 Remove the box body bandwith tongs, wrap it around theappropriate core for sizing, andmake a pencil mark on the edgewhere the sides overlap eachother, as shown in Photo G . The

band begins to cool and dryright away and does not requirespecial gloves for handling.Remove the core and set it aside.Now bend your box back intoshape, aligning the pencil marks.10 Fit the anvils pipe throughthe center of the box band, andinsert a tack in a predrilled nailhole. While slowly pulling theband toward you across the anvilspipe, hammer lightly on the tack,as shown in Photo H . You wantthe curved pipe to bend the pointof the tack back toward the woodand lock the ends together. This iscalled clinch-nailing. Similarly,drive a tack in each of the matingnail holes in the box band.11 Press a beveled shaper intoboth ends of the box openings,and then tightly hold the boxband in its inal shape, as shownin Photo I . Position the box band

E F

HG

Tongs


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on the shaper with the f ingersslightly to the right of center.(Regardless of box size, youllwant to position all the boxesin your set the same way.) Ifneeded, the first shaper can berotated to bring the main tackline into the center of the oval.Then, insert the second shaper.12 Remove the lid band fromthe heated water, and wrap itaround the box band, as shownin Photo J . Mark where theends overlap with a pencil. Now,remove the band, and rebend itaround the anvil pipe, aligningthe pencil marks. Clinch-nail thefinger to the tapered square end.Place the lid band back on thebox band, and set the assemblyaside to dry overnight. Be surethat all fingers point in the samedirection and that the nailsalign, as shown in the Inset .


KI

L

J

M

Figure 3: Drilling Jig

Note: I custom-made the jig shownhere to suit my portable drill. Theaim was to make sure that the 5 64 "drill bit was parallel to the outsidefaces of the box bo om and lid top.You want the drilled holes 1 8" abovethe outside face of the box bo omand 1 8" below the lids top face.

Note: Several ways exist to make therecess for cradling the drill. I angleda pair of fences on the tablesaw at45, and, using a dado set and stop,I sawed a coved recess, making thecuts in small increments. Alterna vemethods include rou ng the recess orboring the recess at the drill press.

Top base3 4 5 1 2 8"

3 8" hanging hole

Lower base3 4 8 15"

1 4" hole, counterbored;locate to suit drill.

Clamp11 4 1 1 2 8" (notch to suit drill)

Recess sized toaccommodateyour drill.

1 4" wing nut

1 4" washer

1

4 31

2"carriage bolt

4 Tape servesas stop.

1 2"


55/84

Complete the box1 Once the box and lid hoopsare dry, remove the shapers.Place the box and lid hoopson 1 4"-thick pieces of cherry,and lightly trace around theirinsides, as shown in Photo K .Make matching witness markson the box bottom and box

hoop for alignment when thebottom is inserted. Do thesame for the top and lid hoop.2 Trim off the excess wood atthe bandsaw, staying back 1 4"outside of the cutline. Next, anglethe disc sander table at 4, andbevel-sand the box bottom andlid top to the line, as shown inPhoto L . Test- it these piecesto their respective hoops. Youwant the box bottom and lid topto wedge tightly into place andbe lush with the hoop edges.Use your sander sparingly tosneak up on the inal itting.Note: Drilling the holes along thebottom and top edges of the liddedbox can be done in several ways.I made a drilling jig that fits mydrill. Check out the notes in thedrawing for construction help.

3Build a custom drilling jig

for your portable drill similarto the one in Figure 3 . Installa 5 64 " bit in your drills chuck,and attach your drill to the jigusing its clamp. You want thebit parallel with the surface ofthe box bottom or lid top and1 8" in from the edge. Adjustthe thickness of the jigs upperbase to achieve the correct holeheight. Place a piece of masking

tape 1 2" under the bit and on theupper base to serve as a stop.4 Now, drill four to ive5 64 " holes 1 2" deep aboutevery 1 1 2" to 2" around theperimeter of the box bandby pushing the box onto the

bit, as shown in Photo M .5 Lightly dip one-half of a roundtoothpick in glue, and insert itinto one of the holes. With thebox resting on its side on yourbenchtop, tap the toothpick gentlyto seat it snugly in the hole. Dothis around the box bottom,where shown in Figure 1, to securely anchor the hoops.Repeat for the lid. Carefully snip

the excess toothpick materialwith a wire cutter, as shown inPhoto N . File the protrudingstubs lush to the box and lid.(A ile is necessary for this step

because it is dif icult to sand theend grain of the toothpick latwith the containers surface.)6 Apply a inish. (I wiped onnatural Watco Danish Oil on the

outside only to let the cherryage and darken with time.) Letthe boxes dry overnight, andthen put them to good use.


About Our Designer/BuilderA woodworker for 40 years, Al Huls currentlymanages the Woodcra store in Indianapolis,Indiana. Over the last several years, hehas taught classes on routers, tablesaws,cabinetmaking, and building Shaker boxes.

Convenience- PLUS BUYING GUIDE 1. Thumb Guard, Leather, Lg. #16V24 $4.99

2. Kit for 3 Oval Boxes, #1, #2, #3 Bands, Tops, Bo oms, Tacks

#50D23 $35.00

Above items are available at Woodcraft stores, woodcraft.com , or by calling (800) 225-1153. Prices subject to change without notice.

3. Tac Pac with Pegs, 1 pkg. each for #0, #1, #2,#3, #4 Box Sizes

$15.00

4. 32" Galvanized Steel Water (Boiling) Tray $38.00

5. Bands for 5 Box Bands, #0-#4, Cherry $19.00

6. Oval Core Set for #0-#4 Boxes $50.00

7. Shaper (Drier) Set for #0-#4 Boxes $50.00

8. Finger Templates, Aluminum, for #0-#4 Boxes $20.00

9. Set of Five Tops and Bo oms, Quartersawn Cherryfor #0-#4 Boxes

$19.00

Above items are available through boxmaker John Wilson, Charlotte, Michigan, at shakerovalbox.com or bycalling (517) 543-5325. Prices subject to change without notice.

N

Tip AlertCon nually test- t the boxbo om and lid top in the box andlid bands as needed. Mark anyoversized areas, and lightly sandexcess to achieve the best t.


56/84


Based on the dozens of timesthat Ive taught my table-buildingclass, it seems that Arts andCrafts furniture may never fallout of fashion. The clean linescomplement almost any dcor, but

I think woodworkers, especiallybeginners, are particularlydelighted to show off newlymastered joinery skills. The factthat the base can be disassembled,allowing the table to fold lat foreasy transport, is a major plus forstudents driving compact cars.

Like the originals, my tableutilizes simple joinery (the railsand stretchers are joined at their

mid-points with half-lap joints)with a few subtle curves andchamfers. Upon closer inspection,youll see that I adopted a fewmodern tr icks to ensure a speedyand successful build for evenbeginning-level woodworkers.For example, rather than relyingon traditional mortise-and-tenonjoinery, I employed loose tenonsand designed a mortising jig thatworks with any plunge router.To reduce the time spent sawingand sanding parts, I createdtemplates so that the legs and topcan be quickly routed to shape.

Authentic Arts and Crafts tableslike this one sell for hundredsof dollars, but you can build anhonest reproduction in a weekendor two for little more than thecost of a few board feet of lumber.For those interested in makingChristmas gifts, the jigs facilitatea last-minute production run. Note: I used quartersawnred oak. Purists prefer whiteoak, but cherry or mahoganywould also make a nice-lookingtable. Whichever wood youchoose, stick with quartersawnstock. The cathedral grain patterns of plain-sawn stockwould be too distracting.

Arts & CraftsEnd Table

A period piece made perfect withsimple jigs and templates

By Mario Rodriguez

Overall dimensions: 22"w 22"d 24 1 2"h


57/84

Dec/Jan 2014 woodcraftmagazine.com 55Opening photo: Jim Osborn; project photos: Paul Anthony; Illustra ons: John Hartman

Make the parts1 From 5/4 (1 1 4"-thick) stock,mill enough material to 7 8" thickto make the top (A), legs (B),rails (C), and stretchers (D).2 Select the best-looking boards,and then glue up a panel slightly

larger than 22 22" to make thetop (A). Put that assembly asideas you prepare the other parts.3 At the tablesaw, rip the legs(B), rails (C), and stretchers (D)to the widths listed in the CutList . Using a crosscut sled ormiter saw, square-cut the railsand stretchers to exact length.(Youll miter the ends of the railsafter cutting the half-lap joint.)

4 Referring to Figure 1 , lay outthe half-lap joints on the rails(C) and stretchers (D). Clearlymark the material that willbe removed so that you dontmistakenly notch the wrong edge.5 Set a crosscut sled on top ofyour tablesaw and adjust theblade height to one-half the widthof the rails (C). Using the layoutlines drawn on a rail (C), clampstopblocks to your sleds fence sothat the blade grazes the insideedges of your lines. To notch therail, make the outermost cuts

irst, and then slide it betweenthe blocks to remove the waste(Photo A ). Repeat with thesecond rail, and then test the

it. If necessary, ine tune thejoint with a sharp chisel.6 Reposition the stopblocks andthen saw the opposing half-lapnotches on the stretchers (D),just as you did for the rails.7 Using a mitersaw equipped witha fence and stop, cut the 5 angleon both ends of both stretchers(D). Make sure to cut the mitersso that the notch faces up on onerail and down on the other.5 Referring to Figure 1 , lay outthe curves on the ends of the rails(C). Using a bandsaw or jigsaw,

Figure 1: Table Exploded

End Detail

A

Hold the rail against your sleds fence and nibble out the waste.Firmly-set stop blocks will prevent you from sawing past your lines.

1 8" chamfer

Adjustcounterbore sothat screw goes1 2" deep in top.

#8 1 1 2"athead screw

2 3 8"

3 8 1 1 4" mor se,3 4" deep

3 8v 1 1 4" mor se3 4" deep

7 8 notch, 7 8" deep

7 8" notch,1" deep

7 1 2"

1 16" chamfer

Do not glue toprail to legs.

3

1 3 16"

R=21 4"


58/84


cut just outside your line, andthen use an oscillating spindlesander to finish the curve. At thedrill press, drill 1 8" clearance and5 16" counterbore holes, whereshown for attaching the top (A).

Shape the legs1 Referring to Figure 2 , layout a full-sized leg template ona piece of 1 2" plywood or MDF.Cut outside your lines, and thencarefully sand up to them.2 To make the Leg ShapingJig shown in Figure 3 at left, temporarily attach the legtemplate adjacent to the edge of a6 29" piece of 1 2"-thick plywood.Position the fence and end stopagainst the template, and thennail these pieces to the base. Next,trace along the legs front edge,and then bandsaw just outsideyour line. Attach the

woodcraft magazine - january 2014 usa

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