zagreb eng

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Zagreb city witha millionhearts

The city o Zagreb, capital oCroatia, on the historic and politicalthreshold between East and West,illustrates both the continental andMediterranean spirit o the nation itspearheads. Zagreb is the cultural,scientic, economic, political andadministrative centre o the Republico Croatia, and is home to theCroatian Parliament, Government andPresident. Its avourable locationbetween the Pannonian plain, theedge o the Alps and the Dinaricrange has allowed it to become acrossing point or mass internationalcommunication. The city is protectedrom the cold northern winds by themountain oMedvednica and opensup to the rest o the world thanks to

a spacious plain and the Sava river.Zagreb, with a population o nearlyone million, contains almost a quartero the entire population o Croatia.Over the centuries, the city wasinhabited by people coming rom allover Europe; and, in recent years, bypeople coming rom dierent partso Croatia, ensuring a rich cultural


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|Introduction

lie. Zagreb is a sae city whosedoors are always open; a city witha tumultuous history teeming withinteresting personalities; a city thatwarmly invites all those who wish toget to know it, and a city that willsurely ulll your expectations.In this city, you can easily meetremarkable people, make newriends and enjoy special moments.The aades o Zagrebs buildings

refect the ebb and fow o history,while its streets and squares bearwitness to the coming together othe many cultures that have shapedthe identity o this laid-back capital.The best thing to do is when yourst arrive is to take in Zagrebswonderul atmosphere, which, asmany claim, is only surpassed bythe legendary beauty o the localwomenolk.


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|History


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The

two hillso Zagreb

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|History

Archeological discoveries datingback to around 35,000 B.C. during

the Stone Age have been discoveredin the vicinity o present-day Zagreb,while later nds show evidence othe Illyrians arrival in this part oEurope. The Celts later moved inrom the ar north, presumably inthe ourth century B.C.. They weresucceeded by the Romans whobuilt a large urban centre calledAndautonia and whose remains have

been preserved in the archeologicalpark o itarjevo.Zagreb as we know it today, whichis to say its historical centre, datesback to the Middle Ages, and thesettlements on two hills: secularGradec, today known as the UpperTown; and ecclesiastical Kaptol.The rst written record o Zagrebdates back to 1094 when theHungarian king Ladislav establishedthe Kaptol diocese on his way to theAdriatic Sea. The Zagreb Cathedralstill dominates the skyline withits neo-Gothic style, while theRenaissance walls surrounding itare rare preserved examples o their

kind in this part o Europe. Duringthe Mongol invasions o centralEurope another historic eventoccurred here, and one that wouldgreatly impact on Gradec, the otherhal o Zagrebs core. In the mid-13thcentury the Tatars ravaged Hungaryand their king Bla IV fed to Zagreb


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|History

where its citizens provided him witha reuge. In gratitude, in 1242 Blagave Gradec a charter proclaimingit a ree royal city. His generosityis symbolically reenacted everyday by the blasting o the cannonat noonromthe Lotrak toweroverlooking central Zagreb. In theMiddle Ages bells were sounded towarn the citizens to return to theort as the gates to the city wereabout to be closed and locked. The

only gate preserved rom the MiddleAges, Kamenita vrata, was burneddown in the rst hal o the 18thcentury. Miraculously, the only thingsaved in the re was an icon o the

Virgin Mary that still occupies itsprime spot in the wall. Our Ladyo Kamenita Vrata is celebrated as

the patron saint o Zagreb and hereast is on the 31st oMay when a

ceremonial procession is organised.The occasion is also used as the Cityo Zagreb Day.The two hills, adversaries in theMiddle Ages, were separated by theMedveak creek and its mills. Thecreek valley sat along the present-day street oTkalieva and it stillruns underneath it, out towards theriver Sava.


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|History

In time the threats o attacksubsided and the city started tospread out around the valley.A trading centre below the twosettlements evolved into what isnow the main square oBan JosipJelai. This is the heart o the cityand a meeting point or all Zagreb

citizens. There is also a legend ohow the city was named. On a sunnyday, a brave governor, exhaustedand thirsty rom battle, asked a girlnamed Manda to ladle (zagrabiti)him out some water rom the spring.This became Manduevac and thecity became Zagreb.


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Theunied city

o Zagreb

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|History

The twin settlements on the hillsprospered. Baroque mansions andchurches were built in the 17th and18th centuries. The Jesuit order builtSt. Catherines Church, consideredone o the best preserved exampleso Baroque ecclesiastical splendour.In the second hal o the 17th century,Zagreb became a university centre,one o the longest existing in Europe.

In the meantime, Zagreb also becamethe seat o government. Dierencesbetween the ecclesiastical city and theree royal borough slowly disappearedand the two nally merged in 1850 toorm the unied city o Zagreb, witha population o 15,000. The new citysposition enabled unhindered growthand Zagreb soon spread around thevalley o the river Sava.


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|History

The development o industrialproduction, commerce, transport andbanking during the second hal othe 19th century made their mark onthe citys appearance. In 1862 Zagrebexpanded to the railway that hasconnected it with all other centralEuropean capitals to the presentday. This is when the city started todevelop along gridlines. The town-planning scheme strictly outlinedthat all streets must be straight ando the same width, and all buildingso the same type and height.Spacious squares and monumentsin the neo-styles o the 19th centuryare seen among the many parks


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|History

and green spaces that comprise theappearance o present-day Zagreb.Praka leads us away rom themain square to the so-called GreenHorseshoe. Thisseries o open greenspaces, not unlike the Ring in Vienna,

is ormed in the shape o the letter uand contains important institutionso public culture. The ratio ogreenery to the urban architecture,ountains and pavilions was careullyplanned out. This is where the mainrailway station, Glavni kolodvor, islocated, as well as the Academy ofSciences and Arts, the UniversityLibrary, the National Theatre,noblemens palaces and numerous

colleges. Yellow-tinted aades andlines o wild chestnut trees echo theera when Croatia was part o theAustro-Hungarian dual monarchy.The old Upper Town evolved into asystematically organised area with

clearly dened sections o greeneryand careully located monuments.Building entrances around theLower Town provide a link betweenpublic thoroughares and the privatesphere o residential courtyards.This atmospheric mix o small townand luxurious Central-Europeanmetropolis raised Zagreb to the levelo contemporary cities to be reckonedwith during the nineteenth century.


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Moderntimes

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|History

The historic events o the 20thcentury transormed the map o theworld and let a mark on the liveso citizens o Zagreb. In 1918, aterthe World War I, Croatia severed allbonds with the Austro-HungarianMonarchy and became a part othe Kingdom o Serbs, Croats andSlovenes, a new state ormed by thesouth Slav peoples. The population o

Zagreb increased and new districtsemerged in the eastern and westernparts o the city, while impressiveresidences were built in the oothillso Sljeme. In this early part o the20th century, Zagreb developed closelinks with other European centres oart, culture and science.It was at this point that the rstradio station in this part o Europe


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|History

began to broadcast; the ZagrebStock Exchange opened; the rst

automatic telephone exchangewas built, as well as the citys rstskyscraper. Modern times continuedto change the everyday lie o localcitizens until the outbreak o WorldWar II.Ater the war Croatia, with Zagrebas its capital, became one o the sixrepublics o Yugoslavia. The post-waryears lead to the urther expansion

o the city. It nally spread over thesouth bank o the river Sava with theconstruction o residential blocks.For centuries, the Sava had beenfooding the valley while protectingcitizens rom medieval invasion andserving as a link to distant lands.From the mid-20th century it becamethe border between the old town oZagreb and Novi Zagreb. Today thereare twelve bridges connecting northand south, new and old. The ZagrebFair, a venue or internationalbusiness conventions, moved acrossto the south bank o the river. Plesoairport was built in the valley;around town, oce blocks sprangup, along with a new National andUniversity Library.In 1991 the Croatian Parliamentproclaimed the independence oCroatia as a sovereign state. Zagrebbecame the capital o a newly


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|History

independent European nation, in asociety o ree and equal citizens.The Parliament o Croatia and theGovernment have their seat in theUpper Town, the oldest secular centreo the city, where historic decisionshave been made or centuries.In the new millennium, the city oZagreb is the business centre o

the region, a place or multilingualbusiness communication, politicaldebate and cultural exchange.Business quarters just outsidemetropolitan Zagreb are a responseto the demands o modern lie.Zagreb continues to be as involved inevents in Europe and the world, as italways has done.


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|ParksandGardens

GreenZagreb

You can nd spaces or recreationalmost anywhere around Zagreb.Also within easy reach we ndMedvednica, a popular destinationor outings. Right in the citycentre, parks, streets and squaresintersect with green spaces andgardens. Landscaped in the 19thcentury, Strossmayer Promenadein the Upper Town is where you

can enjoy a romantic panorama oZagreb accompanied by the poetA.G. Mato, in sculpture orm.Further evidence o 19th-centuryurban planning is provided by theso-called Green Horseshoe. This lineo eight green squares created byLenuci serves as the axis o the LowerTown. One o the most popular isZrinjevac,known or its row o plane


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|ParksandGardens

trees brought in rom Trieste morethan a century ago. Fountains, a musicpavilion and busts o notable gurestake us back to that time. There isalso a meteorological display whichcitizens o Zagreb use to check the

time, the daily temperature, local airpressure and humidity.Those arriving by train are rstgreeted by lovely views oKingTomislav square, named ater the rstCroatian king; the Art Pavilion andZagreb Cathedral. The Art Pavilion,venue or special cultural events, was

originally the Croatian Pavilion at theMillennium Exhibition in Budapest in1896. Its innovative iron constructionmade it possible to transport it to itspresent location and or it to open tothe Zagreb public two years later.

Nearby nestles another green oasis,the Botanical Gardens, containing oneo the most splendid plant collectionsin Europe, with some 10,000 varieties.Behind the walls o the Cathedralyoull nd Ribnjak, Fishpond, a parkwhere clergymen used to catch sh ortheir Friday meal.


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|ParksandGardens

In the eastern part o the citystretches spacious Maksimir.Zagrebs biggest park was landscapedin the 19th century, in what wasconsidered the English style. It laterbecame home to many animals whena zoo wasopened here in the rsthal o the 20th century.Outside the limits o the citycentre, up on the hill, stands the

main cemetery oMirogoj. Itsmonumental arcades, pavilions anddomes were designed in the late19th century by prominent architectHermann Boll. One o the mostbeautiul cemeteries in Europe andthe resting place or many publicgures, Mirogoj is a lovely park inits own right, as well as an open-airart gallery.


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|TheArts,

CultureandEvents


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Cityo art

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|TheArts,

CultureandEvents

Zagreb enjoys a rich cultural lie.Around 30 theatres are active in thecity, some with regular programmes,some occasional. Along with some 30museums, a large number o galleriesand many theatre, music and danceestivals all combine to make Zagreb acity o art. From classical to alternative,rom amateur to proessional, romprivate to public, these dierent

artistic outlets refect the high levelo cultural awareness. The CroatianNational Theatre is the national homeo ballet, opera and drama. O all theconcert halls, the most prominent istheVatroslav Lisinski, named ater thecomposer o the rst Croatian opera.Operettas and musicals, rock and popoperas can be ound in the KomedijaTheatre; quick-witted humour and


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CultureandEvents

satire are staged at Kerempuh, andcontemporary productions are shownat Gavella, ZKM, ITD, and EXIT. Itwould be impossible to list every venue,let alone suggest the best nd onethat suits you. Zagreb hosts manyinternational cultural events. The WorldFestival o Animated Film Animafest isthe second oldest o its kind in Europe.The Music Biennial, the Dance WeekFestival and Eurokaz, an internationalestival o modern theatre, bringperormers rom around the world tothe stages o Zagreb.As we have already seen, the history,art and culture o Zagreb, Croatia andEurope are refected in the architecture

around the city, as well as in its variedmuseums.The Archeological Museum containsthe mysterious mummy o a womanrom Thebes in Egypt, wrapped inlinen the longest text in Etruscanstill to be decrypted. The ZagrebCity Museum brings a moderninterpretation o historical events inthe city rom prehistoric times to thepresent day. The Museum of Arts andCrafts was ounded together with aschool in the same discipline in thesecond hal o the 19th century, bothestablished to preserve the traditionalvalues o cratsmanship. A uniquecollection rom dierent areas and


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CultureandEvents

periods has been on display at theMimara Museum since the UniversityGames were held in Zagreb in 1987.The Strossmayer Gallery of OldMasters houses a collection o worksby amous painters and is an essentialstop or connoisseurs o European artrom the 15th to 19th centuries. Nearbywe nd the Modern Gallery, in which

works by every signicant artist romthe 19th and the 20th centuries areexhibited. Zagreb has also enteredthe 21st century with a new buildingor the Museum of ContemporaryArt, now opening to the public. Inthe Upper Town, the Klovi Gallery ishoused in a ormer Jesuit monastery.For emotion, raw lie and symbolism,visit the Museum of Nave Art,withits display o works by non-academicpainters. Nearby is the Atelier

Metrovi, a gallery where sculptorIvan Metrovi used to live and creatework that marked the 20th century

just as prooundly as Rodins. Thecircular pavilion that is now the Hallof Croatian Artists was built on thebasis o his idea.These are only some o the venuesand events to give you the favour othe rich cultural lie o the city.


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|Sports,

RecreationandFreeTime


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Blue ZagrebWhite Zagreb

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|Sports,

RecreationandFreeTim

e

Blue is the colour o Zagreb. It isound on the coat o arms, on citytrams, buses and the unicular,while the shirts o its sportsmen arealso the same colour. The people oZagreb have always been passionateabout sport, especially ootball.Dinamo, the ootball club with themost trophies in Croatia, also hasblue as its team colour.

Centres or recreation andproessional sports can be oundall around the city. The CibonaBasketball Club plays in a sportshall named ater the legendaryplayer Draen Petrovi. In addition,what used to be a branch othe Sava river is now the JarunRecreational Sports Centre, builtor the 1987 University Games.


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RecreationandFreeTim

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Here youll nd cycle paths,ootpaths and sports courts oreveryone to use internationalrowing competitions take place onthe lake. At Jarun there is also smallpatch o undisturbed nature, hometo several hundreds o species obirds, sh, water animals and insects.A large catsh called Jura might justbe an urban myth but anglers whosh here do hope to catch somethingbig. In summer, Jarun is reerred toas the Zagreb Sea, as its beaches llwith sun worshippers.

Sport carries on through the winter.At the beginning o the year Zagrebhosts the Ski World Cup,justiyinganother o its names, White Zagreb.Only hal-an-hour rom the citysmain square oBan Josip Jelai wend the highest peak o MedvednicaMountain, Sljeme (1035 metres),which holds a special place in thehearts o the people o Zagreb. Thisis where amous Croatian skiers andsiblings Ivica and Janica Kostelitrained or their many medals andtrophies. Their promotion o the skirun at Sljeme led to it being includedin the World Cup schedule. Sljemeis also a avourite place or outings,whatever the season.


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|Lifestyle,

GastronomyandShopp

ing


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Loungeculture

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|Lifestyle,

GastronomyandShopping

Zagreb can be described as acity with the biggest lounge.The moment the sun appearsin the sky in spring, restaurant,ca and coeehouse terracesopen or custom. Streets becomepromenades, places to get acup o coee, relax or have abusiness meeting. A combinationo Mediterranean cordiality and

northern business sense makeany visitor eel welcome.The traditional InternationalFolklore Festival, the globalestival o street perormersCest is dBest, outdoor summerconcerts on Zrinjevac, St.Martins Day and many otheropen-air events increase theeeling o communality.


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Lounging in cas has been a longtradition in this city. The ZagrebGreen Horseshoe and the mainsquare oBan Josip Jelai havealways been hubs o social lie inZagreb. Nowadays, this has spread

across the whole city centre, aroundthe pedestrianised zone and evenurther. People rom all walks olie can nd something o interesthere. Cas around Ban Jelai, orsimply Square as it is oten reerredto, attract prominent gures.Preradovi, also known as Flower

Square, is loved by artists andyoung people, as well as an oldercrowd. Tkalieva, once the borderbetween Gradec and Kaptol, usedto be ull o pubs and served as thered-light district, but nowadays it is

a trendy destination or rendezvousand relaxation or the whole amily.The romantic among you can takethe funicular on Ilica, the shortestone in the world used or publictransportation youll reach theUpper Town in 55 seconds.All o these locations orm part othe phenomenon known as pica.Every Saturday around noon peopleo all ages come to the centrebecause that is the time and place

to see and be seen. The ritual isalways the same: people slowly sipcoee, read the Saturday papers,stop o at Dolac market to pickup resh produce and then gohome to prepare lunch. In everyneighbourhood there is a avouritemeeting place where regulars eelwelcome and where everybodyknows your name.


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Flavours,colours

and smells

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|Lifestyle,


The gastronomic selection in Zagrebcomprises a rich combinationo many cuisines. History andgeography have had a great impacton menus here. Although the peopleo Zagreb gladly cook at home, thereare many places in town whereyou can nd specialities o inlandCroatia as well as Mediterranean andinternational cuisine.trukli is one o the authentic dishes

anyone in Zagreb would recommend.There are several dierent ways opreparation so it can be cooked orbaked, sweet or salty. Turkey withmlincipasta strips is one o thetraditional meals o inland Croatia.There is also Zagreb steak, a piece oried veal lled with cheese and ham,somewhat similar to its renowned

Vienna counterpart. For breakast you

should try resh cream with cheesebought directly rom the producer,the so-called kumica, rom villagesaround Zagreb. Another eatureo the city are its open-air oodmarkets. Almost every neighbourhoodhas one but the Dolac, near theCathedral, is the best known. This iswhere producers sell resh ruit andvegetables, meat and sh daily. The


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Dolac is a unique place, the so-calledThe Belly o Zagreb, where loverso good ood come to nd seasonalproducts rom all parts o Croatia.There you will encounter a mass ocolours, smells and sounds.During the day eateries by the marketoer cheap, ast, home-made dishes.There are cake shops and bakerieson every corner. We recommend youvisit one o the numerous restaurants

that oer regional cuisine. Youshould certainly try Zagreb strudelwith apples, cheese or cherries, andthere is also kremnita, the mostamous creamcake made in thenearby town o Samobor.We should not leave withoutmentioning the praised wines maderom grapes grown near Zagreb.

Even though beer is the mostpopular drink, wine has always beenvery important in Zagreb, and proois in the celebration oSt. MartinsDay. The holiday o this patronsaint o wine alls on the 11th oNovember.


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FromZagreb

with love

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|Lifestyle,


An original souvenir rom a visit toZagreb is a tie, a must-have item oclothing in the business world andan authentic Croatian product. Inthe 17th century Croatian soldiersused to tie elegant scarves aroundtheir necks, a ashion later picked upby the French the rest is history.One o the most importantinventions o the 20th century, the

fountain pen, was actually designedin Zagreb. Its inventor, engineerEduard Slavoljub Penkala, patentedthe worlds rst mechanical pencil in1906 and in 1907 he patented therst ountain pen. He produced themin Zagreb and exported them to 70countries around the world. Thispioneer o modern times has about80 inventions to his name, even


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|Lifestyle,


some in the eld o aeronautics.In 1910, only a couple o years

ater the Wright Brothers, Penkaladesigned Croatias rst aeroplane.The aromatic biscuit paprenjak,oncemade by the women o oldZagreb, is another original souvenir.It is an unusual combination ohoney, walnuts and pepper and areminder o the contrasts we ndin Zagreb. The licitar, a traditional,colourully adorned biscuit made

rom honey dough, originates romcentral Croatia and the lowlands.As it is heart-shaped, it shouldbe given as a symbol o love andaection or special occasions.Red estine umbrellas, a part otraditional local attire, protectthe traders at the Dolac marketrom sun and rain. They too orm aprominent part o the citys identity.For those interested in antiquesand works o art, there is a marketevery weekend at Britanski trg.Zagreb is a city where you canbrowse in small traditional shops or

at contemporary boutiques on themost amous street in the city, Ilica or look or something in the mainshopping malls.Zagreb is a city that always holds aspecial place in the hearts o thosewho visit it.


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|InShort

Zagreb is the capital o the Republic o Croatia

Population:779 145 (2001)

Area:641 km2

Altitude:Zrinjevac 122m, Gri 158m,Sljeme 1035m

Climate:continental -

average summer temperature 20,average winter temperature 1

Time zone:Central European Time

International phone code:Croatia +385;Zagreb (0)1

Currency:kuna (kn)

Distances to:Vienna 370km, Budapest 350km,Venice 380km, Dubrovnik 600km, Paris 1,400km,London 1,600km.


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Publisher:Zagreb Tourist Board

For Publisher:Amelia Tomaevi PhD

Editor:Draen Hochecker

Text:Martina Petrinovi

Translation:Media translations

Prooreader:Peterjon Cresswell

Photos:Ivan Bali Cobraelimir Horvat

eljko KradinacPatrik MacekJohnny MazzilliVedran MetelkoIvo PervanRobert RajtiTomislav RastiTomislav klopanIvor VodanoviCropix-EPHArhiva HNKArhiva AMZArhiva TZGZ

Art director & Illustrations:Ivan Doroghy

Design & Layout:DZN Studio

Print:Birotisak

Zagreb Tourist Board10000 ZagrebKaptol 5

[email protected]

ISBN 978-953-228-013-5


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zagreb eng

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