1 introduction amm

7/31/2019 1 Introduction AMM

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Master of Engineering Management (TE) Program

Department of Textile Engineering


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COURSE CONTENTS:

Course Introduction: Objectives, Methodology,Benefits

Textile Industry of Pakistan: An Overview

Apparel Manufacturing

Merchandising

Product Costing

Management

Supply Chain Management in Apparel Industry


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OBJECTIVES:

The objective of this Apparel & MerchandisingManagement course is to train participants on bestpractices in pre-production, apparel manufacturingand merchandising management.

This course will impart in-depth and practicalunderstanding of these processes through:

Knowledge of best practice processes

Processes in apparel sector

Information on international and regional trends Business communication and relationship management

skills


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METHODOLOGY:

This will be imparted through:

Classroom lectures Group discussions

Assignments

Presentations


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BENEFITS:

This course will enable to:

*Knowledge about Apparel Manufacturing processes & Management.

*Knowledge about Merchandising Management.

*Increase process velocity.

*Shorten product development cycle time.

*Reduce customer order processing time.

*Increase on time deliveries.

*Increase order fulfilment efficiency.

*Production planning and monitor orders throughout the order cycle.

*Effective material planning.

*Enhance communication skills with the buyer and vendors.


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Pakistan & Global Textile:


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Overview of Textile Industry:

Spinning

Weaving

Knitting

ProcessingGarment Manufacturing

Spinning

Weaving

Knitting

ProcessingApparel

ManufacturingProcess Map


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Spinning:

Total Spinning Units 408 Units

Total No. of Installed Spindles

Ring Spindles 10 Million

Rotor Spindles 0.15 Million

Total Yarn Production 2.5 Million Metric-Tons Total Yarn Exports 83 Billion PKR

Source: BOI

Process Map

Blow Room Carding Drawing

Simplex Ring AutoCone

Rotor


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Weaving:

Total Weaving Units 549 Units Total Installed Weaving Machines

Shuttlless Machines 30,000

Power Looms 2,75,000

Total Production 8 Billion Sq. Mtrs

Total Fabric Exports 126 Billion PKR

Warping Sizing Weaving Grading

Process Map

Source: BOI


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Knitting:

Total Knitwear Units 1200

Total Installed Knitwear Machines 18000

Total Knitwear Production 89 million Dozen

Total Knitwear Exports 105 Billion PKR

Knitting

Yarn

Dyeing

Process Map

Source: BOI


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Processing:

Total Processing Units 750

Total Dyed and Printed Fabric Production 4 Billion Sq. Mtrs.

Total Processed Fabric Exported 41.8 Billion PKR

Process Map

Desizing Scouring Bleaching

Knit

Fabric

Dyeing Printing

Scouring Bleaching Dyeing

Woven

Fabric

Source: BOI


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Apparels:

Total No. of Units 5000

Total Installed Machines 7,50,000

Total Apparel Production 700 Million Pcs

Cutting StitchingGarment

Finishing

Process Map

Source: BOI


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Apparel / Made-ups Statistics:

Units 5000 Cottage Units 80%

Industrial Units 20%

Installed Machines 750,000

Cottage Machines 450,000

Industrial Machines 300,000

Woven Garments Production 56 M Doz.

Knitted Garment Production 89 M Doz. (Capacity 110 M Doz.)

Made-up Production (Incl. Home Textiles, bed-ware, towel)

Export Trend (Category-wise)

Cutting StitchingGarment

Finishing

Process Map


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APPAREL: Definition

To dress or clothe or cover

To adorn or embellish.

Any article of clothing. (Garment)

An outer covering or outward appearance.

Anything that decorates or covers.

Clothing, especially outerwear; garments; attire; raiment

Superficial appearance; aspect; guise.


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* The garment production processing steps and techniques involved inthe manufacturing garments for the large scale of production inindustrial basis for business purposes is called garmentsmanufacturing technology. Garments factories are classifiedaccording to their product types are as follows:

1. Woven Garment Factory.2. Knit Garments factory

* Sewing apparel products has always been and remains a labor-intensive activity while textile production has been a capital-intensiveindustry

* Apparel manufacturing depends much less on capital investment andmore on the skill of the individual workers in the sequence ofoperations required in apparel production.


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APPAREL MANUFACTURING PROCESSES:

Stepwise garments manufacturing sequence on industrial basis is given below:

Design / Sketch

Pattern Design

Sample Making

Production Pattern

Pattern Grading

Lay Planning

Marker Making Spreading

Cutting

Sorting/Bundling

Sewing/Assembling

Cropping

Inspection

Pressing/ Finishing Final Inspection

Packing

Despatch

This is the Basic Production Flowchart of a Garment. In advance some of theprocess can be added or removed.


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Here is a brief discussion of every process steps of Garments & Apparel Manufacturing Technology:- Design or Sketch: Before making an apparel of garments we must have to design or sketch the appearance

completely. It helps us at the further process to monitor the manufacturing faults and process shortage.

Pattern Design: Every piece of Apparel or Garment is built upon a pattern. The pattern is made by the standardsizes of Men and Women. We must have to make pattern to follow while manufacturing a garment product. It savestime and increase the rate of accuracy of making.

Sample Making: Before going for a bulk production; its a smart step to make a complete sample of the desiredapparel. After making the sample if the production manager thinks that this okey; then the further bulk apparel orgarment production is to be carried out by following the exact size and quality of that sample.

Production Pattern:After making the cloth sample; its wise to make a production sample that will be hanged out in

front of every labor that are recruited to make this clothing eventually. Grading: Grading is done in order to grade various sizes of garment in separate place so that it would be easier to

inspection and maintain the export works at last.

Marker Making: Market making is the process to sketch on fabric before cutting it. Market is to be in standard sizerequired by the buyers.

Spreading:After making a market; we have to spread the whole fabric over the spreading table in order to putMarker and pattern over it.

Cutting: After successfully spread the fabric and putting all the marks and sketch by the marker; this is the time tocut the fabrics according to design.

Shorting & Bundling: Some shorting task is done in order to list the same number of parts in a separate place.

Sewing & Assembling: Each of the parts of a clothing should be sewed or assembled in order to make a completeapparel that are wearable.

Inspection: In this step of garment manufacturing process each of the complete apparel or garment is to bechecked and recheked. If any faults is found; then the whole process should be repeated.

Pressing or Finishing: After making an apparel it is to be pressed by the Compressed Machine in order to bring it inbale form for export.

Packing: After making a bale of these garment clothing; Packing is done!


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MERCHANDISING: Definition

The word MERCHANDISING evolves from

Merchandise (meaning: the commodities and goods

that are bought and sold in business)

Merchandising is a function resulting in sale and

purchase of goods at the agreed price, at the agreed

date and of the agreed quality.

Merchandising function involves all activities directly

or indirectly linked with procuring and selling of

goods, planning and monitoring.


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Apparel Merchandising:

Apparel Merchandising is all about costing of apparels,selecting and ordering latest trendy materials, styles, sizesand overall apparel specifications to the manufacturersaccording to the main buyers requirement. The people whomanage this whole apparel merchandising process is called

apparel merchandiser.

Apparel merchandising is a process to create acommunication bridge with the buyer and manufacturers. Inthe fashion and apparel world; Merchandiser plays very

important role and most of the fashion and apparel buyinghouse slightly dependent upon those apparelmerchandisers.


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What is a Merchandiser expected to do?

A Merchandiser is expected to perform the following roles andresponsibilities:

All communication, information flow throughout the order cycle (with buyers & withdepartments within the company and vendors) from receipt of order to finalshipping of goods.

Costing negotiations (with buyers and vendors).

Detailed production planning and monitoring (i.e. preparing Time & Action

calendar closure of T&A with buyer and vendor). Approvals on fabrics and accessories.

Order tracking and monitoring ON TIME shipment status

Monitoring material utilization for every order.

Ensuring all products meet the specified testing parameters as laid down by thebuyer / customer.

Approval on fabric quality, color, shade banding and also approval on trims. Coordination between various departments (such as fabrics, sampling, purchase,

production, quality assurance and logistics) for smooth execution and timelydelivery of orders.

Capacity planning for the season (in coordination with the productiondepartments)

In some cases merchandisers are expected to supervise design and development

activities as part of the account management of strategic customers.


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Apparel Merchandising Tasks:

The tasks of an apparel merchandising section dependsupon the type of garments or apparel houses own thissection and what these fashion houses ultimate goal is. But,whether these buying house uses this merchandisingsection; there are still some common works that are doneby the team of Apparel Merchandising. Here are some ofthese tasks that will convey clear concepts to the

enthusiasts like you who were desperately trying to knowwhat is apparel merchandising and how the system works: Predicting upcoming fashion trends and implementing it at new apparel manufacturing

projects.

Adding cutting-edge textiles apparels and clothing into the stores.

Ordering certain quality of fabrics along with required sizes, colors and shapes.

Making costing plans for a new design.

Costing for a new style and fabrics along with the accessories and manufacturing costsinvolved.

Analyzing the market to know where to manufacture the next apparel to save cost.

Building correspondence with buyers and the manufacturers.

Pressuring the manufacturing industries to deliver a product in time.

Suggesting the manufacturers about the quality and styles and sent proposals to modifyanything if required.


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Apparel Merchandising Jobs:

Apparel Merchandisers usually have a verylucrative and gorgeous career these days. As thefashion house and apparel fashion costingpersonnel is highly demanding in the industry; amerchandiser can easily get into this kind of

arena with a smart salary. Some of the popularapparel merchandising jobs are found in:-

Textiles and Apparel Industry.

Apparel Buying House.

Fashion House.

Fashion Consultation Firm.

Apparel Import and Export Firm.

Apparel Designing & Purchasing Company and so on.


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Merchandising Process Flow:


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Cost of Article:

Fabric

Thread

Trims

Labor

Business overhead

Profit


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Costing include:

Purchase of raw materialsAccessories,

Fabrics forming

Processing and finishing of fabricsSewing

Packing of garments

Transport and conveyance

Shipping Over heads

Banking charges & commissions


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1. Fabric consumption.2. Gross weight of other components of

garment.

3. Fabric cost .

4. Fabric cost per garment.

5. Other charges (print, embroidery, etc.)

6. Cost of trims (labels, tags, badges, twill tapes,buttons, bows, etc.)

7. CMT charges

8. Cost of accessories (hangers, inner boards,polybags, cartons, etc)

9. Cost of a garment.

Price of a Garment:


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Management Key Concepts:

Organizations: People workingtogether and coordinating theiractions to achieve specific goals.

Goal: A desired future condition thatthe organization seeks to achieve.

Management: The process of usingorganizational resources to achieve

the organizations goals by... Planning, Organizing, Leading, and

Controlling

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Additional Key Concepts:

Resources are organizational assets and include: People, Machinery, Raw materials, Information, skills, Financial capital.

Managers are the people responsible for supervising theuse of an organizations resources to meet its goals.


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Four Functions of Management

PlanningChooseGoals

OrganizingWorkingtogether

LeadingCoordinate

ControllingMonitor & measure

Th L l f M t


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TopManagers

MiddleManagers

First-line Managers

Non-management

Three Levels of Management


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What Is Supply Chain Management (SCM)?

A set of approaches used to efficientlyintegrate

Suppliers

Manufacturers

Warehouses

Distribution centers

So that the product is produced anddistributed

In the right quantities

To the right locations

And at the right time

System-wide costs are minimized and

Service level requirements are satisfied

Plan Source Make Deliver Buy


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The Supply Chain Another View

Suppliers Manufacturers Warehouses &

Distribution Centers

Customers

Material Costs

Transportation

CostsTransportation

Costs Transportation

CostsInventory CostsManufacturing Costs

Plan Source Make Deliver Buy


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Apparel / Made-ups


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SWOT Analysis of Apparel / Made-ups:

Cotton fabric available (both knitted

and woven)

Raw material (Coarse count yarn)available for terry towel

Wider width processed fabric

available for bed-ware.

Known suppliers of bed-ware and

towels in the global market.

Strengths


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SWOT Analysis of Apparel / Made-ups

Supply side Constraints

According to World Bank Report 2006, Pakistan productivity

is 37 on a scale of 100 for China. India is 46.

Blended fabrics not locally produced in enough quantities

Lack of common R&D facility for fabric development and

design development

Production process inefficiencies and low labor productivities

Weaknesses


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SWOT Analysis of Knitwear

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Machinery

Quality of finished products

Lay-out of producing sections

Ratio of indirect personnel

Work methods

Sewing section productivity

Quality control efficiency

Organization of producing sections

Finishing section productivity

Balancing in sewing and finishing

Middle managment training

Cutting room productivity

Weaknesses

A Study by WERNER shows following deficiencies in knitwear


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Skill training is of short duration and cost effective

Increased demand for quality fabric has the potential to pull

the total value chain, out of its current mediocrity. Technical textiles is a niche area yet untapped.

Globally apparel manufacturing (Sewing, Stitching and

Cutting) attract women workforce with 90% women share.

Value of currency is changing in India and China to ouradvantage.

Women wear production has not yet been tapped in

Pakistan.

SWOT Analysis of Apparel / Made-ups

Opportunities

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