109382632 popular science the big book of hacks

8/13/2019 109382632 Popular Science the Big Book of Hacks

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HOME IMPROVEMENTS

Customize Your Welcome MatOrganize Your Entryway with Recycled CansGive a Doorknob a New SpinSet Up a Secret DoorMake Invisible SpeakersMonitor Your Home with a Laser Security SystemSnooper-Proof Your WalletInstall an Electrical-Outlet Wall SafeCarry a Film-Roll KeychainMake a Musical Stash for Your CashTurn Your HDTV Into a Magic Window

Craft a DIY Digital Photo FrameGive an Old TV a RerunHack the Perfect Gaming ChairMake a TV OscilloscopeHack a TV Console into a SeatInstall an Aquarium in an Old TVBuild a Boob-Tube BarSet Up a DIY Drive-inHang a Liquid Lamp

Improvise a PlanetariumPut On a Liquid Light Show Jam Out to a Sound-Reactive Light BoxWave an LED Lighter at a ConcertParty with an LED Glow StickYou Built What?! An LED-Lit Disco Dance FloorMake a Sonic Tunnel of FireTurn Your Campfire GreenHold a Flaming Ball in Your Bare HandSet Off a Spinning Fire Tornado

Ignite a Homemade SparklerWreak Havoc with the Ultimate Squirt GunMake a Mini CatapultPlay with a Bike-Part SpirographTurn Junk Mail into PencilsSet Up a Turntable ZoetropeYou Built What?! The Real Iron Man SuitMix Magnetic Silly PuttyCook Up FerrofluidCatch a Thrill on a B ackyard CoasterSet Up a Pinball Game at HomePlay DIY Skee-BallBuild a Mint-Tin RacerShake Up a Martini in a Mint TinStrum a Mint-Tin GuitarCarry a Pocket Billiard SetBuild a Mini Arcade GameCinch a Nintendo-Controller BeltSet Up a Supersize Game of OperationPlay Giant CheckersMake a Reflection HologramWield a DIY Light Saber

Hack Your Magic 8 Ball Go Anywhere with Virtual-Reality GlassesFile-Share with a USB Dead DropBuild a BristlebotMake a Mini Whirling MotorRig an Animatronic HandYou Built What?! The Electric GiraffeCreate Audio Art out of Cassette TapeScratch a Pizza-Box Turntable

CONTENTS CON

GEEK TOYS

You Built What?! The Ultimate All-in-OneBeer-Brewing Machine

Drink Booze from a MelonBreak into Your BeerInstall a Shower Beer CaddyChill Your Beer Really, Really Fast

Disguise Your BrewReuse Those Red Party CupsYou Built What?! The Drink-Slinging DroidServe Shots in Jell-O CupsMake Drinks Glow in the DarkFreeze LEGO Ice CubesCook a Hot Dog with Electrical CurrentMod Your Toaster for Far-from-Average ToastWield a Potato Launcher

FOREWORD by Jacob WardINTRODUCTION by Doug CantorHOW TO USE THIS BOOK

Put Together a Soldering KitLearn Soldering BasicsStudy Circuit ComponentsBuild a CircuitChoose a MicrocontrollerProgram an Arduino

Know Basic Woodworking ToolsMake a Straight Cut in WoodMaster Woodworking JointsDrill a HoleSuit Up with Metalworking ToolsCut Metal Pipes and SheetsLearn to Weld

Mold a Retro Lamp BaseCreate a Mesmerizing Persistence-of-Vision CTell Time with a Dart ClockMake a Modern Mag RackSew an Easy eBook Reader CaseTurn a Printer into a High-Volume DocumentSort Mail with Old CDsImprovise a Postage ScaleTurn Your Roomba into a SentryMake a Robotic Artiste

Remove Rust with ElectricityClean with a Toy-Car BroomRig a Superpowered Scrub BrushTrack Your Food’s FreshnessMod a Crumb-Collecting Cutting BoardHarvest Fridge Magnets from an Old Hard DrDo Stuff with Bottle CapsAvoid Burning Your Mouth with a Smart CoaPut an Old Coffee Can to Good UseYou Built What?! Dinner to Go in a Nitrous-IDining Table

Improvise a Sous-Vide CookerBuild a DIY SmokerSet Up an Umbrella Solar CookerConstruct a Toilet-Powered Zen FountainDouble Your Showerhead ActionCraft a Toilet-Paper DispenserHang a Magnetic Stud FinderTurn Your Hard Drive into a Tool GrinderCapture Screws with a Magnetic WristbandRig the Poor Man’s Laser Level Kit Out an Instant-Charge Screwdriver

Make a Mini ScrewdriverRemove a Stripped Screw with a Rubber BanMake a Rubik’s Cube–Inspired Chest of DrawSand Tiny Trim with a RazorMake Duct Tape Do Double DutyCreate a Life-Size Cardboard CutoutLounge in a Cardboard HammockChat on a Cardboard TelephoneHang Up Cardboard Blinds

Pirate a Vinyl RecordCraft a Boom Box Duffel BagMake Your Tie Glow in the DarkPut Headphones in Your HoodieUse a Glove on a TouchscreenPump Jams through an Old-School PhonographAmplify Music with Paper CupsMake Custom-Fit EarbudsPut a New Spin on an Old CDGet Your Air Drum On with Electrified Drumsticks

Amuse Yourself with a FlipperdingerPlay a Pocket Theremin

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contents



Set Up a High-Speed Audio-Triggered FlashYou Built What?! A Camera That ShootsHuge Photographs

CCONTENTS

GADGET UPGRADES

Rig a DIY Polygraph TestListen In with a Foxhole RadioTack Up a Dipole AntennaCraft a Cell-Phone “Cantenna”Boost Wi-Fi with a SteamerHang HDTV-Antenna ArtMod an Xbox 360 Controller into an iPhone CaseMake a Phone “Bounceable”Build a Hands-Free PhoneMake a Remote Display for Your ComputerRig a Smartphone ProjectorCharge a Phone with Solar Rays

Make a Smartphone TripodTurn Your Old Netbook into a Touchscreen TabletFashion a DIY Stylus for Your Touchscreen DeviceProtect Your Touchscreen with Thin Vinyl Stash a Flash Drive in a CassetteMake a Pink-Eraser Flash DriveFake It with a Sawed-Off Flash DriveHouse a Flash Drive in a LEGOHack a Foot-Operated Mouse

You Built What?! Man’s Best Friend Getsa High-Tech Home

Make an Automatic Pet FeederBuild a Cat DoorPut Together a Homemade Wind Mill Hook Up a Solar ChargerMake a Geodesic Dome out of PVC PipeReuse an Old Garden HoseMake the Lazy Man’s MowerSet Up DIY Grow Lights

Build a CD-Case GreenhouseYou Built What?! The Ultimate Snowblower

Trick Out Your Computer Tower with EngravingTurn Your Laptop into a WhiteboardDye Your LaptopMake a Steampunk-Inspired Laptop CaseTurn On Your Computer with a Magnet SwitchPrint Secrets with Invisible InkFake Out Thieves with a Desktop HackShield Your Screen from Prying EyesSet Up a Laptop Cooling SystemControl Your Mouse from Afar

Make an External Hard DriveAdd Keyboard ThumbtacksRig a Superportable KeyboardCreate a Glowing MousepadUpcycle an Old Circuit BoardMake a Laptop Stand from a BinderBuild a USB Hub into Your DeskStash Your Printer in a DrawerMount Stuff behind Your MonitorOrganize Loose CablesMake a Floppy-Disk BoxGet Pumped with a CD Dumbbell Assemble a Cereal-Box SpectrometerRig a Supersimple Radiation DetectorSet Up a Plasma Globe Inside a Simple LightbulbIlluminate Sketches with Homemade Conductive InkHack Infrared GogglesDecimate Stuff with a DIY Laser CutterYou Built What?! A 3D Printer That Runs on Sun and SandShine a Mini FlashlightBrighten Up a Standard-Issue FlashlightBeam a Batman-Style Spotlight

Repurpose Foil for Techie UseImprovise a TripodMount a Camera to Your BikeBuild a Time-Lapse Camera StandRig a Plastic-Bottle DiffuserMake Your Camera Waterproof Create a Peephole Fisheye LensAdapt a Manual Lens to Your DSLRSnap a Self-Portrait with a DIY Remote Shutter Release

GLOSSARYINDEXTHANKS TO OUR MAKERSIMAGE CREDITSACKNOWLEDGMENTSDISCLAIMER

THINGS THAT GORide with a Grease-Free Pant LegReinforce Your Tire with a Seat BeltStay Safe with a Beer-View MirrorKeep Your Handlebar Grips TightBring the Party with a Bike SpeakerStay Warm on Chilly RidesMake a Unicycle Out of a BikeNavigate with an Old-Fashioned GPSMake Your Bike’s Tires Snow Proof Protect Your Bike Saddle from TheftReuse a Busted Bike TubeShred on a Fan-Propelled SkateboardGive Your Motorcycle a Futuristic VibeLight Up Your Motorcycle HelmetYou Built What?! The Vrooming Hot-Rod HaulerMount a Rad Hood OrnamentHang a DIY Air FreshenerBlack Out Your TaillightsInstall Air Horns in Your CarFend Off Fender Benders with a Sonic Distance SensorHack an Emergency USB Charger

Shift with a Custom Gear KnobBuild a Bed in Your VanRig a Camping ShowerKit Out a Solar-Charging Messenger BagStay Cool On the Go with Ad Hoc A/CRefill a Tiny Toothpaste TubeAssemble a Collapsible Travel HangerGive Your Suitcase the Gift of WheelsPack Your Razor Safely

Take Aerial Photos with a Weather BalloonMake a Mini HovercraftLaunch a Mini RocketBuild a Better Canoe PaddleUpgrade Your Kayak into a SailboatYou Built What?! The Incredible AmphibiouHack an Oversize Air Hockey PuckScore with Ping-Pong Paddle GlovesAssemble a PVC-Pipe Soccer Goal Transform a Bike into a B-Ball Hoop

Serve Up a Tennis Ball Turn Your Backyard into a Badminton CourtMake a Mini-Golf CourseInstall an At-Home Rock Wall Hang PVC Fitness RingsYou Built What?! A Tilting Ping-Pong TableThat Throws Off Opponents

Organize Cords On the GoRun in No-Slip ShoesYou Built What?! The Motorized Easy Chair

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FOREWORDAnyone can make anything. That is the lesson of the140 years that Popular Science has been in print.A determined person, working on the weekends,can escape gravity, break the speed of sound, orcreate a new means of communicating across greatdistances. And that inventive process begins bytearing things apart and rebuilding them again.

I cannot claim to have been the kind of kid who didthat. My instincts around technology were alwaysto keep my belongings clean, dry, and otherwise inperfect working order, not to dismantle or modifythem. But my years at Popular Science have taughtme that that instinct is the wrong one. There issimply too much technology at our disposal not tomess around with it. And when a determined person

brings his or her inventive instincts to bear on thegadgets and gizmos that fill our lives, great thingscan result.

But this book isn’t necessarily about building greatthings. It’s about messing around, usually for thesimple fun of it. The projects on these pages arebased, in part, on the years we’ve spent pursuingthe lone, sometimes crazed hackers who don’t justmodify technology but blow it apart, just to be ableto say they’ve done it.

I spent an afternoon with our staff photographer, John Carnett, who in his off time had replaced themotor on a four-wheel ATV with a jet engine. Thething required an elaborate start-up procedure andear protection just to get it rolling, and as he droveme through his Philadelphia neighborhood in it, Icringed to imagine the incredible racket we weremaking, essentially that of a 747 taxiing past. Andyet throughout the process, oblivious to the enemieshe was making among the local parents, dogs, andnappers, John wore a look of joy and pride that hadnothing to do with serving humanity or inventingsomething new. He’d just tricked something out—hacked it—in his own way, and in doing so hadmade his mark on the universe, not to mention onthe neighborhood noise ordinances.

It’s in that spirit that we, and especially ourtireless senior editor Doug Cantor, bring you thisentertaining collection of projects. We did it for thehell of it.

Jacob WardEditor-in-Chief Popular Science



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010008

TO MAKE A MITERED BUTT JOINTSTEP 1 To join two pieces of wood at a 90-degree angle,you’ll first need to mark each piece of wood with a line

at a 45-degree angle, drawn from front to back at thecorner of each piece. Mark this 45-degree angle onopposite sides of each piece, and join the bottom cornersof those lines together with a straight line on the thirdside. This will mark out the triangular wedge of woodyou’ll be removing from each piece.

STEP 2 Start your cut at one of the 45-degree lines,cutting a shallow groove. Finish your cut carefully,checking that your cut lines up with both the end cornerof the wood and the straight line that you drew. Repeaton the second piece of wood.

STEP 3 Once you’ve cut each end into a 45-degreeangle, line the pieces up with the newly cut surfacestouching. Check to make sure this forms a 90-degreeangle, then glue the ends together with wood glue toform a mitered butt joint. Clamp the joint while it dries.

STEP 1 Choose a drill bit that’s the right size and lengthfor the hole you need to drill.STEP 2 Mark the spot where you want your hole, thenuse a center punch to create a dent at the mark. This willhelp keep the drill bit in place as you work.STEP 3 Clamp the material you’ll be drilli ng in place.

Think this is easy? It usually

is—especially if you use the righttools and techniques.

DRILL A HOLE

TO MAKE A MORTISE AND TENON JOINTSTEP 1 To create this type of joint, you’l l nepiece of wood so that a section protrudes (theand another piece so that it has a hole (the mFirst, measure and mark the tenon, making itlong enough to create a strong joint.

STEP 2 Use a saw to cut out the tenon. You’l

cut away a rectangular chunk of wood on eaccentral piece of wood that will form the teno

STEP 3 Use the tenon to measure out the mothe other piece of wood. Mark a space for theboth sides of the wood.

STEP 4 Choose a drill bit that just fits insideand drill a hole halfway through the wood. Fthen drill the rest of the way through the woothe marks you made in the third step as a guid

STEP 5 Use a hammer and chisel or a jigsaw mortise square.

STEP 6 Fit the tenon into the morti se. Depenyour project, you can use a dowel, glue, or a wkeep the joint locked together.

STEP 4 When you turn on your drill, check tthat the drill bit i s spinning clockwise.

STEP 5 Drill into the material. As you go, thshould feel like it’s moving smoothly withoutoo much pressure. If that’s not happening, stcheck for materials that could be clogging th

STEP 6 When you’re drilling, you can put threverse (spinning counterclockwise) to back hole you make. If the back of a hole isn’t smodeburring tool to remove burrs and splinters.

If “butt joint” sounds like a joketo you, grow up and learn thesewoodworking staples.

MASTERWOODWORKING JOINTS

MEASURING TOOLS Accuratel y measuring lengthsand angles is essential. A simple tape measure and acombination square (which allows you to measure andcheck angles) help you mark your cuts accurately.

HAND SAW This is the most basic, inexpensive sawthat most of us have stashed somewhere in our garages.You should have one on hand and sharpened for makingcuts that don’t need to be incredibly precise.

TABLE SAW Now you’re cutting with power. Thiselectric saw features a circular saw blade set into asurface, and to make a nice, straight cut in an item,you push it across the blade as it spins. If it soundsdangerous, that’s because it is. Be very careful whenoperating one of these saws.

JIGSAW Use this power tool when you need to make acurved cut in wood or metal. The jigsaw can be difficultto control, and as a result is dangerous—use it onlywhen you require irregular contours or artistic touches.

ROTARY TOOL T his simple yet versatil e deviceallows you to cut, drill, sand, and carve into all sorts ofmaterials. It comes with a variety of bits.

STEP 1 Mark your cut with a ruler and pencil, on thesides as well as the top of the wood. When measuring,take the width of your saw blade (called kerf ) intoaccount, and use an arrow to show which side of the lineyou’ll cut on.

STEP 2 Place your saw on a corner at your mark, anddraw it backward with light pressure to create a notch.Repeat this to deepen the notch, then adjust the sawgradually to make a shallow cut along the line on the

Set up a proper shop with someessential carpentry gear.

BLOCK PLANE This hand tool is useful when you wantto soften edges and plane flat surfaces.

DRILL This device is your old faithful—your basic toolfor making holes in wood. The size of the hole dependson the bit that you choose.

ROUTER A more advanced cutting alternati ve, a routeris a power tool that accepts a variety of bits and createshollows in surfaces. It’s useful for making different woodmoldings and joints.

SANDING BLOCK To smooth wood by hand, outfit asanding block with sandpaper.

RANDOM-ORBIT SANDER T his power sander is usefulfor faster sanding and large projects.

CLAMPS You’ll want to have a variety of clamps onhand to hold your project steady as you glue it together.

WORKBENCH You need a solid surface to work on asyou assemble your project.

VISE Some workbenches have a built-in vise, and thosedesigned for woodworking won’t damage the wood.

SAFETY GEAR E specially when using power tools,goggles are essential to protect your eyes from flyingwood chips, and earplugs or noise-blocking headphonesprotect your hearing by muffling the noise. A face maskwill also keep fine sawdust out of your lungs.

Because sawing straight lines can betrickier than you might think.

MAKE A STRAIGHT CUT IN WOOD

top surface of the wood. Be careful that you don’t pressdown too hard on the saw; if you do, it could catch.

STEP 3 Using the first groove and your penciled guides,turn the wood and repeat the second step on the othersides. The wood will have shallow cuts on the top and sides.

STEP 4 Turn the wood top up again, and finish sawingthrough the piece. To avoid splintering, tilt the saw backand support the wood you’re cutting as you finish the cut.The grooves on the sides will help keep the saw straight.

KNOW BASIC WOODWORKING TOOLS

You can do most woodworking projects withoutelaborate table saws and expensive machinery(though they’re handy if you have them). But you’llprobably want to have these essentials on hand.



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GGEEK TOYS

What if there were a machine—a beautiful, shinymachine—and all it did, with almost no work from you,was make you beer? Such was the dream that droveformer PopSci photographer John Carnett to build whathe calls “the Device”: a stainless-steel, two-cart brewingsystem that starts by boiling extract (concentrated wort,or pre-fermented beer) and ends with a chilled pint.

In most home-brewing setups, each step in the processrequires moving the beer to a new container by hand,which increases the chance of contamination andrequires lifting. Carnett’s machine keeps everythingin the carts’ closed system—he only has to swap a fewCO₂-pressurized hoses to move the liquid along.

THE ULTIMATE ALL-IN-ONEBEER-BREWING MACHINE

DRINK BOOZE FRA MELON

Behold this deluxe homemade microbrewery: anelaborate device that boils, ferments, chills, and pourshome-crafted ale.

Turn basic produce into ahilarious drink dispenser.

BUILDING A BETTER BREW

The next step? Adding a thirdcart to make wort from raw

grain instead of extract. But,says Carnett, there’s a lot of“testing” of the new design tobe done first.

The delicious brew’s journey begins in the boil keg,where concentrated wort extract is heated by a propaneburner for 90 minutes. The beer then travels througha heat exchanger—which cools the mix to about55 ˚F (13̊C)—on its way to the fermenting keg. Here,a network of Freon-chilled copper tubes pumps coolwater around the keg when the temperature gets toohigh. After two weeks, the Device pumps the beer into asettli ng keg, where a CO₂ tank adds carbonation. Whenyou pull the tap, the beer travels through the cold plate,so it’s chilled on the way to your glass. That’s right: TheDevice is always ready with a cold pour and consumesno power when it’s not actively serving or fermenting.

YOUBUILTHAT?!

MATERIALSMedium seedless

watermelonLarge spoonDrill KnifeBall valve faucet with

a handle

Rubber O-rinthe faucet

PVC-to-faucAlcohol of y

STEP 1 Using a knife, cut off just enbottom of your melon so that it sits

STEP 2 Pick the side of the melon thwant to be the front, then cut a hole toward the rear. Save the piece you’vas you’ll use it later.

STEP 3 Scoop out the fruit with a la

STEP 4 Drill a hole in the melon’s fthe bottom. Using a knife, widen it senough for the faucet to fit inside.

STEP 5 Gently screw the faucet into(It helps to stick your free hand insimelon and guide the faucet into placthe inside.)

STEP 6 Slide the O-ring onto the bathe faucet inside the melon, then insadapter. Test for leaks.

STEP 7 Load it up with the elixir of choosing, put the cut-out top back inget your pour on.



037 038036035

GEEK TOYS GEE

STEP 1 Use scissor s to cut away a 2-by-5-inch(5-by-12.5-cm) strip of cloth from an old T-shirt.Roll the cloth into a ball.

STEP 2 Thread a needle with about 2 feet (60 cm)of sewing thread.

STEP 3 Push the needle all the way through thefabric ball, securing the loose end of the fabric strip.

STEP 4 Wind the thread around the ball many,many times. When you’re almost out of thread, pullthe needle through an existing loop of thread, thentie it off and remove the needle.STEP 5 Soak the ball in isopropyl alcohol; squeezeout any excess that may drip onto your hands.

STEP 6 Wash any fluid off your hands, light up yourfireball, and let it blaze around in your hand. (Theless-adventurous can put on heat-resistant gloves.)

STEP 1 Using a rotary tool, make ainto the top of a medicine bottle’s

STEP 2 Fill the bottle about one-fway with water and add 1 teaspoon

STEP 3 Add 1 tablespoon each of dishwashing detergent and bakingthen put the lid on.

STEP 4 Carefully hold the flame omatch over the hole until the gas ycreated ignites, firing your sparkl

STEP 1 Pour ¼ inch (6.35 mm) of copper sulfate into asmall paper cup. (You can use common tree-root killers,which contain copper sulfate.)

STEP 2 Melt old candle stubs in a double boiler, andpour the wax into the cup over the copper sulfate.

STEP 3 Stir the copper sulfate and wax together untilthe chemical is coated.

STEP 4 After it cools, peel off the sides of the paper cup.

STEP 5 When you’re done cooking at your campsite,

throw the copper-sulfate-infused wax into the hottestpart of the fire and watch the green flames start licking.

STEP 1 In the center of a lazy Susan, mold clay into a basefor a fireproof bowl. Press the bowl into the clay, and placepieces of molding clay along the edges of the lazy Susan.

STEP 2 Measure the lazy Susan’s diameter and roll a pieceof screen into a 36-inch- (90-cm-) high cylinder of the samediameter. Use straight pins to secure the cylindrical shape.

STEP 3 Pour kerosene onto a rag; place it in the bowl.

STEP 4 With a fire extinguisher nearby, carefully ignite therag in the small bowl with a long-handled lighter, then placethe screen cylinder over the lazy Susan, pressing it into thepieces of molding clay.STEP 5 Give the lazy Susan a whirl. Stand back and watchdevious, fiery nature at work.

STEP 6 To extinguish, don heat-resistant gloves, wait for thelazy Susan to slow, and remove the screen. Then snuff out thesmall bowl with a larger fireproof bowl.

IGNITE AHOMEMASPARKLE

SET OFF ASPINNING FIRETORNADO

TURN YOURCAMPFIREGREEN

HOLD A FLAMINGBALL IN YOURBARE HAND

Old candlestubs

Seriouslycool green

flames

Paper cup

Thread

Coppersulfate

Balled-upfabric

Flames generatedby isopropylalcohol Fireproof bowl

pressed ontomodeling clay

Screen heldtogether withstraight pins

1 tablespoondishwashing

detergent

WaterLazySusan

Ragsoaked inkerosene

Pieces ofmodeling

clay

Old T-shirt

WARNING

All of these fun fiery displays are definitely on thedangerous side. Exercise extreme caution when get tingyour pyro on, and always have a fire extinguisher handy.



059058

GEEK TOYS G

WIELD A DIY LIGHT SABER

COST $$

TIME

EASY HARD

BUILDIT!

Now the force can always be withyou, too. • • ° ° °

MATERIALS10-inch (25-cm) piece of

1.25 inch (3-cm) PVC pipeBlack spray paintDrill 4 feet (1.2 m) of

electrical wireWire strippers30 LEDs

Pliers2½-foot (75-cm) length

of ¾-inch (2-cm) frostedpolycarbonate tube

Two AA batteriesSoldering iron and solderOn/off switchDuct tape

STEP 1 Spray-paint the PVC pipe black—this is yourhandle—then drill a hole in it for the on/off switch.

STEP 2 Cut two 2-foot (60-cm) lengths of electricalwire and strip both.

STEP 3 Attach the positive leads of the LEDs down thefirst wire, evenly spacing them. Then attach the LEDs’negative leads to the other stripped wire. Use pliers tocrimp the LEDs’ legs, securing them to the wires.

STEP 4 Drill a hole in the polycarbonate tubthe string of LEDs into the tube through the othread its wire through the hole, and tie it off

STEP 5 Place the batteries next to each otherpolarities facing opposite directions. Attach wire across their ports with aluminum-foil d

STEP 6 Solder two wires to the on/off switchit through the hole for the switch in the handbringing it up through the hole in the bottom

STEP 7 Insert the tube into the handle so thatfrom both the LED string and the switch danthe handle’s end. Tape the handle and tube t o

STEP 8 Solder the negative wires from the swLED string to the battery pack’s negative porpositive wires from both to the positive port

STEP 9 Duct-tape the handle’s bottom to holbattery pack inside. Turn it on and go get a Si

MATERIALSClass 3A laser diode with anoutput of 3 to 4 mW

TweezersBattery packWooden clothespinHolography processing anddevelopment kit

Distilled waterA small solid objectPFG-03M 2½-by-2½-inch(6.35-by-6.35-cm)holographic plates

CardboardMatte black spray paint

MAKE A REFLECTION HOLOGRAM

Holograms aren’t just for the holodeck.Make a 3D image of an object near you.

STEP 1 Open up the laser diode and, using a pair oftweezers, remove the lens and the small tension spring.Hook the diode up to a battery pack.

STEP 2 Secure the clothespin in an upright position, and

prop the laser diode between the clothespin’s prongs.STEP 3 Prepare the chemical processing solutions withdistilled water and lay out the trays according to theholography processing and developing kit’s instructions.

STEP 4 Set up the object that you want a hologram of15 inches (40 cm) from the laser. Glue or tape it down ifyou’re concerned about movement.

STEP 5 Make the room fairly dark, and adjust the laserin its holder so that the beam spreads out horizontally,with the object centered in its light.

STEP 6 Place cardboard in front of the laser to blocklight from reaching the object.

STEP 7 In the darkest area, remove a holographic platefrom its container and (after immediately closing thecontainer) lean the holographic plate against the objectso that the sticky, emulsion-coated side touches it.

STEP 8 Request that everyone in the room hold still,and lift the piece of cardboard to expose the holographicplate to the laser light for about 20 seconds. Replacethe cardboard.

STEP 9 Process the exposed holographic plateaccording to the holography kit’s instructions, and thenspray-paint the sticky side of the plate black.

STEP 10 When the plate is dry, place it in front of anyincandescent (unfrosted) light source—a flashlight orthe sun, for instance—to see the hologram take shape.

Polycarbonatetube fi l led withLED strand

PVC-pipehandle

On/off switch



074

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+ =+

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GEEK TOYS

STEP 1 Use a craft knife to remove the stock tip (usuallymade of foam or rubber) that your buds came with.

STEP 2 Follow the instructions on your putty packageto get the putty ready.

STEP 3 Pull up on the tip of an ear and, with your mouthopen, press some putty in gently, folding in or removing

the excess to create a flush, clean fit.STEP 4 With the putty still in, insert the bud.

STEP 5 After the silicone has set (about 10 minutes),remove the mold by gently twisting it out of your ear.

STEP 6 Gently pull the bud out of the mold and usethe craft knife to make a small hole in the mold to allowsound to come through. Reinsert the bud.

STEP 7 Repeat the entire process on the other earbudand enjoy a personalized fit.

COST $$$

TIME

EASY HARD• • • •

°

MATERIALSEarbudsCraft knife

Silicone putty

MAKE CUSTOM-FIT EARBUDS

This phonograph probably hasn’t playedany new music since Stravinsky. Give itnew life with this modernizing mod.

Because anything you stick in your earevery day should be comfortable.

BUILDIT!

STEP 1 Measure and cut two holes in the top of yourbox: one for the brass horn and a smaller one for thestereo socket.

PUMP JAMS THROUGH ANOLD-SCHOOL PHONOGRAPH

MATERIALSWooden boxDrill with a hole bitFeltMiniature mono amplier with

tone controlTransformer for the amplierTwo potentiometer knobs3.5-mm stereo socketPower plug

Power switchSpeakerSoldering iron and solderElectrical wireHot-glue gunBrass horn from an oldphonograph

Media player

Mini monoamplifier

Power switchPotentiometers

Speaker

Power plug

Transformer

Box

STEP 1 Turn one papercup upside downand stick a toothpickthrough the bottom.

STEP 2 Put anothercup on top of it so thatit rests perpendicularto the first cup andis secured by thetoothpick.

STEP 3 Cut a holeinto the bottom of thetop cup, and insertan earbud from yourmedia player.

STEP 4 Repeat withthe other two cups,then listen to yourfavorite tunesin stereo.

AMPLIFY MUSIC WITH PAPER C5

MINUTEPROJECT

3.5-mmstereo socket

Mediaplayer

STEP 2 Measure the box’s inside and cut felt to thosedimensions, then line the box with felt—it will make forbetter sound.

STEP 3 Set up the electronics according to the diagram,drilling holes for the power source, potentiometers, andpower switch as you go.

STEP 4 Place the horn in its hole and hot-glue it inplace. Sand and varnish the box, if you desire.

STEP 5 Close up the box, plug your media device intothe stereo socket, and plug the contraption’s powercable into an outlet.

STEP 6 Enjoy the sweet, sweet sound of anachronism.



105104

HOME IMPROVEME

Magazines sure can pile up.House ‘em in this berglass rack.

Make a ModernMag Rack

ROM THERCHIVES

1 FOOT (30 CM)

SLOTS ½ INCH(1.25 CM) WIDE

¾-INCH(1.9-CM)GAPS

1 FOOT(30 CM)

21 INCHES (53 CM)

2 FEET (60 CM)

SEW AN EASY EBOOKREADER CASE

Protect your slick tablet with a felt casetucked inside an oversize book.MATERIALSTabletBook 1 inch (2.5 cm) larger

than your tablet on all sidesBox cutterFeltScissors

RulerHot-glue gunCardboardPencil 3 feet (90 cm) of ½-inch(1.25-cm) braided elastic

MATERIALS1-by-2-foot (30-by-60-cm)

polystyrene sheetRulerGrease pencil Box cutter¾-inch (1.9-cm) thick wood Jigsaw

Saw bladeDrillTwo wood dowels that are

9 inches (23 cm) in lengthWood glueSix screws

corners, use scissors to punch two holes large fit your elastic. Each hole should be 1 inch (2.the outline’s corner.

STEP 6 Cut four 4-inch (10-cm) pieces of braiFeed one from the back of the cardboard up thof the holes and then back through the facing hwith the other three strips and insert your tablethe strips go over the device’s corners, holdingit fits, hot-glue the elastic pieces’ ends to the c

STEP 7 Use scissors to cut two holes into the bcover near its outside edge. Thread the remainthrough one hole from the outside. Measure hoelastic needs to be to encircle the book when iwith the tablet and cardboard tucked inside, thelastic and glue its ends to the inside back cov

STEP 8 Line up the felt-wrapped cardboard pithe book covers and hot-glue them together (thshould be facing you, on the inside of the book

STEP 9 Let the glue dry, slide the tablet under and revel in being secretly high tech.

STEP 1 Using a box cutter, cut out the pages from thebook. Glue a strip of felt to the inside of its spine.

STEP 2 Cut two pieces of cardboard to the size of thebook’s covers. Snip off the cardboard’s corners.

STEP 3 Measure and cut two pieces of felt so they’re2 inches (5 cm) l arger than the cardboard on all sides. Cut45-degree-angle slits into the felt pieces’ corners.

STEP 4 Position one of the cardboard pieces in the centerof a felt piece. Fold the felt over the cardboard’s cornersand hot-glue it in place. Repeat with the other pieces.

STEP 5 Trace the tablet’s outline on the back of onecardboard piece. On both sides of each of the outline’s

COST $

TIME

EASY HARD

BUILDIT!

• • ° ° °

STEP 1 With a ruler and a grease pencil, draw thepattern at left onto the polystyrene.

STEP 2 Wearing a dust mask, use a rotary toolwith a cut-off wheel to cut out all the ½-inch(1.25-cm) sections.

STEP 3 Use a jigsaw to cut the wood into twostrips that are 2 ½ inches (6.35 cm) high and1 foot (30 cm) long.

STEP 4 Create a groove ¾ inch (1.9 cm) deep inthe top of the wood pieces with a saw blade.

STEP 5 Drill two indentations into the inside ofeach of the wood pieces. Slide the dowels intothe holes so that they connect the wood pieces.

Secure with wood glue.STEP 6 Slide the polystyrene into one of the woodpieces’ grooves. Secure it with three evenly spacedscrews along one of the wood pieces.

STEP 7 Fold the polystyrene into a U shape andslide it into the second wood piece’s groove.Secure with screws again.

Elastic stripsthrough thecardboard

Felt on book’sspine

Felt-wrappedcardboard

Old book withfelt inside



117 DO STUFF WITH BOTTLE CAPS

Next time you pop open a cold beer or soda,pocket its cap and put it to use.

QUICKHACKS

SOAP-SLIME KILLERTwist a bottle cap into the bottom of a bar ofsoap—it prevents sticky crud from building on your sink or tub surface.

FRIDGE MAGNETGlue a small circular magnet inside a bottlecap with the nonmagnetic side facing the cap

back, then smack it on the fridge to hold up tnumber of that take-out joint you like so muc

TINY CANDLESPlace a wick in the cap’s bottom, then pour hwax to fill. You’ll be well prepped next timelights go out.

PLAYING PIECESIf you’ve got two 12-packs of different brand

beer, you’re more than on your way to a gooFriday night: You’ve got a full set of checkepieces. Now all you need is a checkeredtablecloth and a friend to play (and help drin

MUD-ROOM MATNail caps with their labels facing downward a grid design onto a piece of wood. Place themat in front of your door, and never track muthrough the house again.



151

HOME IMPROVEME

THE ULTIMATESNOWBLOWER

YOUBUILT

WHAT?!

When Kai Grundt announced he was building a from a discarded V8 engine, a friend just laughelater, instead of showing him the finished producshowed him what it could do. He buried the manunder 7 feet (2 m) of snow. From two houses aw

Since Grundt, a metal fabricator in Muskoka, Onstarted with the huge engine from his old Chevyknew power wouldn’t be a problem. The problembe making the 800-pound (362-kg) machine easyhandle. He didn’t want the snowblower racing awhe revved the blades that suck up the snow—thecrankshaft spins them up to 6,200 rpm—so he chrun its tank-like tracks via a different system. Pothe 412-horsepower V8, a hydraulic pump feedshydraulic motors that each turn one track. This agive the blades a boost while keeping the machinat a safe pace.

Moving snow can be a frigid business, so Grundremote-start system to get the machine warmed uhe steps outside. The blower doubles as a heater,faced the engine’s radiator toward the back; an eblows excess heat right at his legs.

And what about noise control? Twin custom-desensure that there’s no exhaust streaming into theface during operation. Grundt also gave the pipeinterior channels that reroute and slow down theair, dampening the noise. Cutting down on the dalso keeps the neighbors happy.

THAR SHE BLOWS

Using controls built into the hanGrundt can turn one track forwthe other in reverse, spinning thplace. These handlebars are hoand the coolant fluid flows thrthem, keeping his hands toasty

Keep your driveway clear of the wstuff with this eight-cylinder blas



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158

GADGET UPGRADES GADGET UPGRADE

STEP 1 Break a packof Sugru (a malleablesilicone rubber thatsticks to plastics) intofour pieces.

STEP 2 Place onepiece on each corner ofyour phone, folding itover onto the front andback surfaces.

STEP 3 Mold theSugru as desired oneach corner within30 minutes.

STEP 4 Leave it to cureovernight before using,then fear dropping itno more.

5 MINUTEPROJECT

MAKE A PHONE “BOUNCEABLE”

If you’ve gotten addicted to the feel of a controllerin your hands, this smartphone case mod is for you.The phone’s home button is cleverly concealedbehind one of the face buttons, and both thecharging and audio cords are neatly concealedinside the controller shell.

MATERIALSXbox 360 controllerTorx screwdriverPhillips screwdriverSmartphoneRotary tool ScissorsSuperglue

Foam3.5-mm audio-jack extension

cableSmartphone wall charger with

USB cablePliers

BUILDIT! MOD AN XBOX 360 CONTROLLER

INTO A SMARTPHONE CASE

Why choose between gaming on asmartphone and gaming on a console?

STEP 1 Turn over your controller and pull off the batterycompartment’s plastic cover. Peel away the serial-numbersticker inside the battery compartment case and use theTorx screwdriver to remove the screw underneath it.

STEP 2 Remove the other screws on the controller’s back.Lift the back off, and remove the bottom plate.

STEP 3 Lift out the circuit board. The thumbsticks, triggers(the buttons on the back below the left and right bumperbuttons), and rumble pack motors (the cylindrical bits thatdangle) will come right out with it.

STEP 4 Peel away the rubber pads that were behind thecircuit board. Then turn the controller upside down and letall the buttons fall out.

STEP 5 Turn the controller back over and remove thescrews on the directional pad. Use a screwdriver to release

COST $$$

TIME

EASY HARD• • • • °

the tabs in the directional pad’s center. Then remove thedirectional pad’s front and back.

STEP 6 Pull the top shelf (the upper part with the rightand left bumper buttons) off the circuit board.

STEP 7 To pry the triggers from the circuit board, applypressure to the long rod and pop up the triggers, thenpinch their sides, pull out the springs, and turn themgently to pry them free. Pull the left thumbstick off thecircuit board while you’re at it.

STEP 8 Turn your attention to the controller. Measurea space to fit your smartphone inside it so that yoursmartphone’s home key is as close as possible to a buttonon the controller. (This may be the green button, or it maybe the left thumbstick.) Cut out this hole with a rotary tool.

STEP 9 Use a rotary tool to drill multiple small holes inthe controller over your smartphone’s speakers.

STEP 10 Use scissors to cut the rubber pad that wasbehind the face buttons, only leaving contacts forfunctioning buttons. (In the case of an iPhone, this is thegreen button.) Reinstall the rubber pad inside the consoleshell with the functioning button lined up with its contact.

STEP 11 Glue all the nonfunctioning buttons back in place,along with the l eft thumbstick.

STEP 12 Measure and cut foam to pad the inside of thecontroller’s upper shell, with a window the same size

as your smartphone’s screen. Glue the foam inconsole’s hole.

STEP 13 Use a rotary tool to drill a hole in thethe battery compartment. It should be big enoufemale end of your audio jack to stick out.

STEP 14 Drill a second hole in the inside wall battery compartment that’s large enough so yothread through the audio jack’s male plug. Pulend through this hole and into the main compa

STEP 15 Use a rotary tool to cut another hole ibattery compartment’s back wall, this time largto fit the USB end of the smartphone’s charger

STEP 16 Use a rotary tool to remove the plastifrom the smartphone’s charging cable, reducinso it will fit inside the controller. Glue this endcontroller’s main compartment, oriented so it into your phone. Then thread the USB end throbattery compartment and coil the cord.STEP 17 Place your smartphone inside the sheit to the charging socket and plugging the maleaudio jack into its audio input.

STEP 18 Close the upper shell over the smartpsecure with screws.

STEP 19 Use your phone as you normally wouwatch people do a double take.

Leftthumbstick

Smartphone

Homebuttonunder facebutton

Female audio ja ck h idd enin batterycompartment

Holes forspeaker

Charger cordconcealedinside here

Audio cordconcealed

inside here

Bottomplate

Xbox 360controller

Facebuttons

Right buttonLeft button Foam

gasket



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182

GADGET UPG

SET UP A LAPTOPCOOLING SYSTEM

CONTROL YOUR MOUSE FROM AFAR

COST $$

TIME

EASY HARD

BUILDIT!

Chill down your machine withcopper’s thermal conductivity.

Direct your mouse witha simple laser pointer.

MATERIALS

Rotary tool PaperScissorsSheet of 0.5-mm copperplating

Tin snips6-mm center-tapped lip andspur drill

Two pieces of 6-mm coppertubing, each 2 inches (5 cm)in length

Solder and soldering ironPlastic tubingRubber tubingBilge pump

MATERIALS

Optical mouseLaser pointer, less than 10 mW

STEP 1 If necessary, use the rotary tool to cut awayat your laptop’s plastic casing until the fins of yourcomputer’s internal radiator and heat sink are exposed.

STEP 2 Experiment to determine how big the fins of yourheat extractor should be. Try inserting strips of paper

STEP 1 Lean your mouse against your compuso that it’s propped upright with its belly facin

STEP 2 Identify your mouse’s sensor, which ltiny bubble tinted black.

STEP 3 Shine the laser pointer directly at the Once you get a lock on the sensor, you can min the mouse’s vicinity to control your compu

• • • • °

between the fins of your computer’s heat sink, cutting themdown until they fit perfectly. For maximum cooling, the finsshould fit as deep into the heat sink as possible.

STEP 3 Once you’ve determined the necessarymeasurements for your copper heat extractor’s fins, cleanthe copper sheet with soap and water. Using one of yourpaper fins as a template, trace seven copper fins.

STEP 4 Trace two holes 6-mm in diameter along one ofthe short edges in each fin, positioning the holes ⅝ inch

(16 mm) apart. The 6-mm copper tubing should fit snuglythrough these holes, once you’ve drilled them.

STEP 5 Cut out the copper fins with tin snips and use thelip and spur drill to cut out the holes. Set the drill to a slowspeed and do your drilling on a flat surface to prevent thecopper sheet from warping.

STEP 6 Thread the fins onto the two lengths of coppertubing. You can temporarily place coins between the fins tohelp space them evenly so that they’ll line up with the heatsink’s indentations. Solder the tubes and fins together.

STEP 7 Cut a piece of plastic tubing to a length of about1 ½ inches (3.75 mm). Heat it until you can bend it to fitover both pieces of copper tubing on one side of the fin-and-tubing contraption. Insert the contraption into yourcomputer’s heat sink.

STEP 8 Hook two lengths of rubber tubing to the barepieces of copper tubing that are plugged into yourcomputer’s heat sink. Connect these two lengths of rubbertubing to a bilge pump filled with water. Power it up andthe water will circulate, carrying heat from the heat skinkand keeping your computer cool.

STEP 1 Salvage aworking hard drivefrom a laptop or acomputer tower.

STEP 2 Locatethe ports on ahard drive case’sbaseplate, thenattach them to thehard drive.

STEP 3 Line up theholes in the drive andbaseplate and screwthem together.

STEP 4 Slide theseparts inside thecase. Screw on thefaceplate, lining up itsholes with the ports tokeep them accessible.

MAKE AN EXTERNAL HARD DRIVE5

MINUTEPROJECT

Laptop that tendsto overheat

pper tubingand fins

Plastictubing

ne toe pump

Heat sink



187

AN EVEN GEEKIER CLIPBOARDUse a heat gun and pliers to strip off all thesolder and bits and bobs, then apply laminateto make it smooth. Swap the clip from an oldclipboard onto your new, high-tech version.

NERDTASTIC GUITAR PICKUse a soldering iron to remove any electricalcomponents on the circuit board, then use arotary tool to cut out a guitar pick shape. Sanit until it’s smooth and start picking.

META MOUSE PADDesolder a circuit board so that it’s bare andcover both sides with vinyl. Plop your newmousepad on your desk and get your scroll o

LIGHT UP THE CIRCUITForm a box shape with four stripped circuit

boards and drill holes in their corners. Fastenthem together with zip ties, and hook this boxup to a hanging light-socket assembly for somnice spotlight action.

UPCYCLE AN OLD CIRCUIT BOARD

So a gadget’s circuit board is down for the count.There are still countless things you can do with it.

QUICKHACKS



197

GADGET UPG

MATERIALSFerrite-core yback

transformer (salvagedfrom an old CRT television)

Wire strippersScrewdriverHacksaw18-gauge wire22-gauge wire

Electrical tapeRotary tool Project box60-watt or higher clear

lightbulb

24-volt DC-power supplyOn/off switchSuperglueElectrical wireLightbulb socket2N3055 transistor and

heat sink5-watt, 27k-ohm resistor5-watt, 240k-ohm resistorSoldering iron and solder

BUILDIT! SET UP A PLASMA GLOBE INSIDE

A SIMPLE LIGHTBULB

Make a miniature Tesla coil insidethis ubiquitous household fixture.

COST $$

TIME

EASY HARD• • • • •

STEP 8 Take one end of the 22-gauge wire and attach itto the transistor’s base post. Attach the 22-gauge wire’sother end to a wire between the 27k-ohm resistor and the240k-ohm resistor.

STEP 1 Salvage a transformer from an old CRT television.To do this, turn off the television and unplug it, then openup its back and locate the transformer. (It’s the bulkysquare metal ring with two cylindrical “cores” on it, boltedinto the television’s circuit board.)

STEP 2 Remove the transformer by clipping away thewires (leaving extra wire on the transformer itself) andunscrewing the bolts holding it to the circuit board.

STEP 3 There are two sets of windings on thetransformer’s primary and secondary core, both encasedin plastic. Use a hacksaw to cut through the plastic aroundthe windings on the smaller primary core. Then cutthrough and remove the windings.

STEP 4 Wind 18-gauge enameled wire around the spotwhere the windings used to be about five times. Thenwrap 22-gauge wire four times next to the 18-gaugewindings. Secure both wires with electrical tape.

STEP 5 Use a rotary tool to make three holes in a projectbox: one for your lightbulb socket, one for the powersupply, and one for the on/off switch. Super-glue theseparts in place on the top and side of the box, and place thetransformer inside the box.

STEP 6 On the secondary core, there is another set ofwindings. Pry the two loose ends off the core and twistthem to the connectors on the lightbulb socket.

STEP 7 Take one end of the 18-gauge wire wrappedaround the transformer and connect it to the transistor’scase post, and connect the other end to the power switch.

Decades ago, famous mad scientist Nikola Teslainvented what he called the “inert gas dischargetube” to conduct various experiments in electricityand magnetism.These days, you can use the same technology tocreate an entertaining display piece that generatesstatic and responds to your touch by arcingelectricity to your fingertips. With a few salvagedmaterials, you too can harness the power of high-frequency alternating current—and be well onyour way to becoming a mad scientist yourself.

60-watt lightbulb

Lighsock

Tran

24-volt DCpower supply Project box

On/offswitch

5-watt,27k-ohmresistor

5-watt,240k-ohm

resistor

18-gaugewire

2N3055transistor and

heat sink

22-gaugewire

Transistorcase post

Transistoremitter post

Transistorbase post

Seccor

Primarycore

YOUBUILT

WHAT?!

A HOMEMADE SCANNINGELECTRON MICROSCOPE

Ben Krasnow went looking for a challenge anddecided to try his hand at the toughest one hecould imagine: a homemade scanning electron

microscope, fashioned from an old oscilloscope, aglass bell jar, and a refrigerator magnet to focusthe electron beam. His completed microscopedelivers about 50x magnification—a far cry fromcommercial SEMs’ 1,000x or more—but experts saythat doesn’t lessen the accomplishment. WilliamBeaty, a research engineer who had hoped to buildthe first DIY SEM, put it simply: “D’oh!”

STEP 9 Complete the rest of the circuit as shousing electrical wire, then screw your lightbulsocket, plug in your power supply, and turn onSTEP 10 Kill the lights and watch your plasma

WARNINGTesla may have invented alternating curredidn’t like to see people get electrocuted wthis fate by exercising extreme caution whtransformer, as its high voltage is i mmens



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208

GADGET UPGRADES

MOUNT A CAMERATO YOUR BIKE

5MINUTEROJECT

STEP 1 Poke a holein the center of thebottom of a plastic cup.

STEP 2 Insert a boltthat fits your camera’sthreaded tripod hole.Glue the bolt in place.

STEP 3 Screw onyour camera and startsnapping.

IMPROVISE A TRIPOD

STEP 1 Find a bike bell with a central screw that fits thetripod mount on the bottom of your camera. Most tripodmounts measure ¼ inch (6.35 mm).

STEP 2 Attach the bell to the handlebars.

STEP 3 Use a screwdriver to remove the bell’s dome.

STEP 4 Screw the camera’s tripod mount to the bell’scentral screw. Orient the camera whichever way you like,

and start shooting your photographic travelogue.

STEP 1 Drill a15/64 -inch (6-mm) hole into the center of akitchen timer’s dial. Insert a ¼-inch (6.35-mm) 20 set screw.

STEP 2 In the bottom of the timer, drill a hole11/32 inches(8.75 mm) in diameter. Screw a ⅜-inch (9.5-mm) bolt i ntothe hole to create threads for a ⅜-inch (9.5-mm) bushing(a threaded insert that will allow you to mount the timer tothe tripod).

STEP 3 Measure and cut a piece of rubber mat, leaving ahole for the bushing, and glue it to the bottom of the timer.

STEP 4 Mount the timer on a tripod, attach the tripod mountand camera, and set the timer. Adjust the camera’s settings totake pictures at regular intervals, and then transfer the shotsto a computer and create a panoramic time-lapse montagewith photo software.

Document your epic rides witha bike-bell mod.

Upgrade your kitchen timer for slickpanoramic photos on the cheap.

MATERIALSBicycle bellCamera

BicycleScrewdriver

MATERIALSKitchen timerDrill ¼-inch (6.35-mm) 20 setscrew

⅜-inch (9.5-mm) bolt⅜-inch (9.5-mm) 20 bushingCraft knife

Rubber matGlueTripodTripod mountCameraComputer with photo-editing

software

Bicycle bell

Centralscrew

Camera

BUILD A TIME-LAPSECAMERA STAND



228 229

THINGS TTHINGS THAT GO

MATERIALSMotorcycle helmetFine sandpaperPaper towel Pencil Masking tapeConductive paintPaintbrushWire strippersElectrical wireSoldering iron and solder

9-volt battery9-volt battery snapOn/off switchEpoxyWooden sticks for mixing and

applying epoxiesLEDsConductive epoxyClear spray enamel

GIVE YOUR MOTORCYLE AFUTURISTIC VIBE

Ride straight out of the movie TRON with this illuminated motorcycle trick.

BUILDIT!

COST $$$

TIME

EASY HARD• • • • °

LIGHT UP YOURMOTORCYCLE HELMET

Make your helmet extra safe—andextra cool, too—with conductive paint.

STEP 1 Sand the surface of your helmet where yourdesign will go and then wipe it with a damp paper towel.

STEP 2 Draw a circuit directly onto the helmet. Tracecomponents (such as the LEDs, battery, and on/off switch)onto the helmet and mark positives and negatives.

STEP 3 Mask out the area around your circuit to containthe conductive paint.

STEP 4 Paint inside the tape, mapping your circuit. Makesure to stir the paint thoroughly and often, as the particlestend to settle. Apply multiple coats, if needed.

STEP 5 Let the paint dry for a few minutes and carefullyremove the masking tape. Then let dry for 24 hours.

STEP 6 Snap the battery snap onto the 9-volt battery.Strip the ends of two pieces of wire and solder positiveand negative leads to the snap’s positive and negativeports. Then solder these leads to the positive andnegative terminals of your on/off switch.

STEP 7 Use wooden sticks to mix and apply epoxy, thenaffix the on/off switch and battery to the helmet. Let dry.

STEP 8 Trim the leads of the LEDs. Use conductive epoxyto attach the LEDs where you want them, and then affixthe switch wires.

STEP 9 Let dry for 24 hours, then seal over and aroundthe conductive paint with epoxy to waterproof.

STEP 10 Tape off areas of your helmet you want toprotect—like fabric parts or LED bulbs—and spray yourhelmet with clear spray enamel.

STEP 11 To turn the lights on, flip the on/off switch.

MATERIALSMotorcycleFlexible LED light stripsHeavy-duty tapeWire strippersTwo clamp connectors

Soldering iron and solder18-gauge black wire18-gauge red wireZip tiesOn/off switch

STEP 1 Locate your motorcycle’s battery—it’s probablyunder the seat.

STEP 2

Place the LED strips where you want them alongyour motorcycle’s frame. If the strips themselves arenot adhesive, secure them with tape, and run the wiresthrough the frame body toward the battery.

STEP 3 Using the wire strippers, strip some of theinsulation from the ends of all the LED strips’ wires. Placethe negative wires into a clamp connector and the positivewires into another clamp connector.

STEP 4 Solder the black 18-gauge wire to the clamphousing the black LED wires, and the red 18-gauge wire tothe clamp housing the red wires.

STEP 5 Gather the wires and secure them with a zip tie.

STEP 6 Mount the on/off switch somewhere you caneasily reach while you’re riding. Strip the ends of theblack and red 18-gauge wires. Connect the red 18-gaugewire to the on/off switch, soldering on another length of18-gauge red wire to extend to the battery.

STEP 7 Connect the black 18-gauge wire to the battery’snegative terminal and the red 18-gauge wire to thebattery’s positive terminal.

STEP 8 Start your motorcycle, flip the switch into the“on” position, and make sure all the LED strips light up—ifthey don’t, check your connections.

STEP 9 Suit up and ride off into an alternate reality.

9-voltbattery

On/offswitch

Conductivepaint

LEDs



238 239

THINGS T

BUILD A BED IN YOUR VAN

Get on the road again with a mod thatmakes your van at least as comfy asthat Best Western.

BUILDIT!

MATERIALSSweet vanTape measurePaper and pencil Storage bins, if desiredTwo sheets of 1 ¼ -inch

(3-cm) plywood2x4sWood screws

Screwdriver JigsawMattress

STEP 1 Measure the space you have available in theback of your van, accounting for any obstructions, such aswheel wells. You may want to remove the l ast row of seatsto provide more space.

STEP 2 Make a plan for a bed frame based on your van’smeasurements, and include a flat bottom, two risers thatlift the bed off the van floor, and a flat top. If you want touse the space under the bed for storage, figure storagebins into your plan.

STEP 3 Construct your risers. Lay out a long 2x4 andattach four shorter 2x4s perpendicular to it, spaced evenlyalong it. Reinforce the riser by doubling up your 2x4sas necessary. Repeat to build a second riser. (Use screwsinstead of nails if you want to be able to deconstruct andremove the bed easily.)

STEP 4 Use a jigsaw to customize the bottom of the bed,cutting out holes for any brackets or wheel wells thatwould keep the bottom from sitting flat in your van.

STEP 5 Attach the two risers to the sheet of plywood thatwill serve as the bed’s bottom, then slide the bottom intoyour van. You may need to tilt it to get it inside.

STEP 6 Attach evenly spaced crosspieces to the risers.

STEP 7 Use a jigsaw to trim the top of the bed to avoidobstructions as needed, then screw it to the crosspieces.

STEP 8 Add a mattress or other padding and slide yourstorage bins underneath the bed.

RIG A CAMPINSHOWER

MATERIALSHose12-volt output pumpTwo PVC elbowsSmall-diameter PVC pipe

Showerhead12-volt car lighterBucket of water

STEP 1 Attach a small piece of hose to the outl12-volt output pump.

STEP 2 Add a PVC elbow fitting to the hose, aa length of small-diameter PVC pipe. Run the another elbow, then screw a showerhead to theelbow’s end.

STEP 3 Wire the pump to a 12-volt car lighterdrop the pump in a bucket of water.

STEP 4 Hang up your shower to a tree near yoit however you see fit. Enjoy showering outdo

COST $$

TIME

EASY HARD• • • ° °

1¼-inch (3-cm)plywood top

Risers madeof 2x4s

1¼-inch (3-cm)plywood base

Crosspieces

Showerhead

PVC pipe

EElbow

Hose

12-voltpump’s

wire

Bucketcontaining water

and pump



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245

244

THINGS T

GIVE YOUR SUITCASE THEGIFT OF WHEELS

PACK YOUR RAZOR SAFELY

MATERIALSMetal plateFour castersSuitcaseMarker

Drill Grommet kitNuts and boltsRubber washers

MATERIALSWire hangerWire cutters3 feet (90 cm) of ½-inch(1.25-cm) PVC

4 feet (1.2 m) of ropePliers

MATERIALSBinder clipRazor

Rubber band

Forget lugging that luggage—upgradeit and let it roll itself to the terminal.

No more reaching into your toiletries bagand coming out with a bloody ngertip.

Because wrinkled clothes are forsuckers, but so are hanging bags.

STEP 1 Choose a metal plate that fits the side of thesuitcase you’re modifying. Decide where you’d likethe casters to go, then line up the tops of the casters onyour metal plate and mark their positions. Also mark afew sets of holes along each edge of the plate—you’ll usethese to secure the plate to your bag.

STEP 2 Drill your marks, using a drill bit that matches thesize of your bolts.

STEP 3 Place the drilled metal plate in its final position onyour suitcase. Use a pen to mark the position of each hole.

STEP 4 Using a grommet kit, punch a hole through yoursuitcase at each point you marked. Place a grommet oneither side of each hole, then hammer the two piecestogether using the equipment in your kit. Repeat untilyou’ve protected each hole with a grommet.

STEP 1 Measure the length of each side of a wire hanger.Cut three sections of PVC pipe, sized to match thosemeasurements.

STEP 2 Cut the hook off the wire hanger, slicing about1 inch (2.5 cm) below the twisted base of the hook oneither side. Use pliers to bend the two ends up at the base.

STEP 3 Line up the PVC sections so they match the layoutof the original hanger, then thread the rope through allthree sections, leaving enough slack so that the hangerwill be able to collapse—about 6 inches (15 cm). Tie a knotin the rope.

STEP 4 Thread the base of the hook through the rope atthe top of the hanger, using pliers to close the upturnedends around the rope.

STEP 5 To collapse the completed hanger, just fold it up—if it doesn’t fold, use a longer piece of rope.

STEP 1 Fold back the binder clip’s arms and op

STEP 2 Insert the head of your razor and closefolding down the arms. Use a rubber band to sbinder clip in place over the razor.

STEP 3 Pack your razor without fear of cuttingwhen you unpack.

STEP 5 Line up the plate again, and use nuts aconnect the plate to the bag. Then connect the the bolts for these should run through the plateinto the bag. To add extra weatherproofing, uswashers on the inside of all bolts.

ASSEMBLE A COLLAPSIBLETRAVEL HANGER

REFILL A TINY TOOTHPASTE TUBE

STEP 1 Detach thetops of two toothpastetubes and place themtogether with theirclosed ends touching.

STEP 2 Use a ring ofSugru to attach theclosed ends. Wait24 hours for it to dry.

STEP 3 Drill a holethrough the centerof the attached tops.Brush out any shardsof plastic.

STEP 4 Attach afull large tube oftoothpaste to one side,and an empty travel-size tube to the other.Squeeze to refill.

5MINUTEROJECT

PVC pipesections

Ropethreadedthroughthe PVC

Hangerhook



264

THINGS THAT GO

Getting to class just gota little fas ter.

Chris McIntosh’s first recliner was not your standard La-Z-Boy:It was electric-powered and capable of going 15 miles per hour(24 km/h). After he finished making it, he pulled a doughnut onhis high school’s front lawn, circled the gym during a pep rally,and ruled the street near his home in Orinda, California.

McIntosh spent his youth building ad hoc vehicles (he oncemade a mini hovercraft out of a leaf blower), so when the chair’spaltry electric motor burned out, he decided it was time for amonster makeover. “I wanted to go fast,” he says.

To upgrade the recliner, he removed the electric motor he hadinstalled, the motor’s controller, a pair of batteries, and otherparts. He bought a 9-horsepower, four-stroke dirt-bike engine,which fit perfectly in the space beneath the seat, and weldedon a fixed rear axle so that the engine could power both rearwheels instead of just one. Bike engines need to be kick-started,but the recliner’s lever snapped when he tried to use it. Hewelded on a motorcycle kick-start lever instead.

Then there was the danger of the vehicle catching on fire. Thedirt-bike engine’s exhaust pipe got so hot that it sometimesglowed red and threatened to set the upholstery (and McIntosh)ablaze. To avert disaster, he rerouted the pipe, mounting itfarther from the underside of the chair, and covered it withfireproof wrap. His parents were pleased.

Still, the first test drive was frightening: McIntosh immediatelypopped an accidental 45-degree wheelie. He added 30 pounds(13.6 kg) of weights near his feet to keep the front down,along with a roll bar and harness for safety. The chair has nosuspension at all. “The ride gets a bit bumpy,” McIntosh says.“But then again, there’s plenty of padding.”

He says he has now mastered climbing hills and turning corners,although he’s planning to add a rearview mirror to reduce thelarge blind spot behind the backrest. The newly completed gas-

powered version now goes 40 miles per hour (64 km/h) and, just as important, he says, “It sounds like a Harley.”

STREET ILLEGAL

McIntosh figured the chair wouldn’t bestreet legal, so he designed it to fit in theback of his hatchback. To load it, he slidesoff the backrest, leans a ramp against theback of his car, and pushes the heavy frameup and in. He typically uses it in parkinglots, but he does occasionally take it aroundlocal streets and even took it to USC’shomecoming parade.

THE MOT0RIZEDEASY CHAIR

YOUBUILT

WHAT?!



President, CEO Terry Newell

VP, Sales Amy Kaneko

VP, Publisher Roger Shaw

Senior Editor Lucie Parker

Project Editors Emelie Griffin, Jess Hemerly

Creative Director Kelly BoothDesigner Michel Gadwa

Image Coordinator Conor Buckley

Production Director Chris Hemesath

Production Manager Michelle Duggan

415 Jackson Street, Suite 200San Francisco, CA 94111Telephone: 415 291 0100Fax: 415 291 8841www.weldonowen.com

Popular Science and Weldon Owen are divisions of

Copyright © 2012 Weldon Owen Inc.

All rights reserved, including the rightof reproduction in whole or in part in any form

Library of Congress Control Number ison file with t he publisher.

Flexi Edition 978-1-61628-399-5Hardcover Edition 978-1-61628-450-3

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 12012 2013 2014 2015

Printed in China by 1010 Print ing.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Weldon Owen would like to t hank Kat ie Cagenee,Andrew Jordon, Katharine Moore, Gail Nelson-Bonebrake, Jenna Rosenthal , Katie Schlossberg,and Marisa Solís for their editorial experti se anddesign assistance.

We’d also like to thank our technical editors, MichaelRigsby and Tim Lill is, and our in-house builder andcircuity diagram consultant, Ian Cannon.

Popular Science would like to thank Matt Cokeley, ToddDetwiler, Kristine LaManna, Stephanie O’Hara, ThomPayne, and Katie Peek for their support over the years.

We would also l ike to thank Gregory Mone for penning

the You Built What?! entries included in th is book.And a big thanks to Mark Jannot and Mi ke Haney—theHow 2.0 column’s first ed itor—for getti ng it all s tarted.

DISCLAIMERThe information in this book is presented for anadult audience and for entertainment value only.While every piece of advice in this book has beenfact-checked and where possible, field-tested, much

of this information is speculative and situation-dependent. The publisher assumes no responsibilityfor any errors or omissions and makes no warranty,express or implied, that the information includedin this book is appropriate for every individual,situation, or purpose. Before attempting any activityoutlined in these pages, make sure you are awareof your own limitations and have adequately

intended to replace professional advice from expertsin electronics, woodworking, metalworking, orany other field. Always follow all manufacturers’instructions when using the equipment featured inthis book. If the manufacturer of your equipmentdoes not recommend use of the equipment in

the fashion depicted in these pages, you shouldcomply with the manufacturer’s recommendations.You assume the risk and full responsibility forall of your actions, and the publishers will not beheld responsible for any loss or damage of anysort—whether consequential, incidental, special, orotherwise—that may result from the information

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