(1939)pattern drafting

8/12/2019 (1939)Pattern Drafting

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o DunnBros.

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ok,orparts

ducedinany

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ngandgarment

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ntinued)

tternforwoolen

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ntinued)

ofdraftingsure-fit

rtfront.

rtback.

rt.

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rt.

kirt.

edeceived.

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methodofmaking

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sadvisableto firstread

34,54,55

art32

eChart....33

hart34

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hefront 39

37

39

dualrequirementsapplicabletoallmakes

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ess118

ternsreadchapteronsleevemeasuresap-

terns57

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hortsleeve68

thers atthetop70

athersat thebottom.....71

e topforthelargearm 66

earmsleeve67

sleevesinthe garment123

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Makingthe...-153

emovingshine. 98

heGurneybasicmethod 88

orgathersatthefront88

orshirring attheshoulder.....'...89

athersatthearmscye89

orgathersat theVopening.90

eckline..90

ntneckline...-90

waist91

esideseam91

1

ng attheextendedshoulderseam92

waist39

8,82,84, 85

aking156

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ksFigs.9,10,1152

thechapters,pages25,26, 31,40

ctionsonpages42,43, 44,45,46,47,94

ctionsonpages48,49, 50,51,52,53,99

gthe regulardresspatternsareused,

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e59

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ys'shorts 170

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irts (SeePages175-181)

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t190

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nholes192

emethodoffinishing buttonholes194

gpipedbuttonholesandpockets195

ket196

ed-openseams200

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19/208

eagatheringof

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araspossible,the

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ou

ten

tha zest

tationthat

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ndwise is

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nhumanbeingstherecanbe

Thephilosophyof con-

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mincludesnotonlyaltruism

ty,socialcourageandob-

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tfoundababy

oy,apurse ofmoney

oeverfoundthe

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atedthat themuch

twas,becauseofde-

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22/208

INGANDGARMENTMAKING

on.Teachingtrans-

confidenceandcon-

economicproduction.

kering,adreaming

rtheraccomplish-

ependence.

tocanaccom-

herstobanishthe

n't"andtoinstill

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tandencouragethe

wefindthatthe

quicklyfrequently

y,and becauseof

piloftenbecomes

eamstresseswho

rmentmakingtalent,

tlyveryfast.How-

maticmethodsandim-

kdoesnotprogress

boriousefforts.The

nehasever taught

orkfor progressive

manyofyouteach-

classeswhowill be

orld withoutfur-

entingthemwith

terialsnecessaryto

keitenjoyablefor

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etray.

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23/208

sistsolelyofneat

nowingthepurpose

permanent,will

ofewstitchesare the

dress,andthatisan

hwewishtoavoid.

entersourmind

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entconsistsof:(1)

nsas largeones

eedles,(4) atape

chor shrink,(5)

kinglines,etc.(col-

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k,(7)athimbleof

eorworkingspace

oomforcuttingpur-

neofyourown

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ninsewingfor you

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e,oftenhave pins

hearts withoutstick-

eneedlemust atall

beparallelwiththe

no specialturnand

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drestonall four

slide offthehand

uteprogressivesew-

andeffort.

egarmentonone

fthread.Useshorter

andhandsewing

endingallyourtime

pullingitoutarms

h.Also,never"kiss"

nserting themin

eavemarks.

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sworthdoing WELL.

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25/208

UALTYPESANDPOSTURE

ebornwithnormal

ndividualselves to

cefromthetipof the

o thetipofthe mid-

hourhandsout-

otalheight.TheCre-

dingus tobeand

t aswideasweare

uprightandsquare.

g,"Betrueto your-

oyourself,"upright

onlyof thingscon-

of thetime.

andwalkerectwith

shoulders.Ifwedoas

wellbalanced,inFig-

ss,good-feeling,ever

ogo.Wecanall enjoy

littlepracticeeach

p-toeswith the

dandour chinsup.

oughyourwhole

ationof beingpro-

ellightand airyand

eggswithheavy

em!!!

teofFigure5.She

dlookingfor some-

ceher slightlyround

eredtypeofindi-

broadfaceand short

ulderedtypeof

eanarrowfaceand

nwithveryround

ge bust.

henormal types

uralforusto won-

shouldbe wornby

econtourandphys-

dbeof primarycon-

ty;third,posture

mplexion;fifth,height

s;seventh,colorof

olookexactlyalike

at thesamedress

d nottotheother.

sandhasacertain

dressconspicuously

ouslyresponsivein

llroom.However,her

plicatedressdoesnot

measthevivacious

sis becomingtothe

e,asforinstance

rflymovesslowlyto

sthesinglelight col-

klybecauseshereal-

reyes.Regarding

lorsina bedofpan-

pansybutthatit had

orange(thesun

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tteringtoallother


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26/208

RES

adeusallsubjects

eachandeverypart

itmeasureandcor-

odyasNaturein-

,whyandwhence

he widthofthe

hofthe thumb

nd,andthreetimes

alsthelengthofthe

einchesisthe length

hes?Twelve,be-

ths,halves,thirds,

s.Weareeight

nitshigh.Therefore,

htandisdivisiblein

tfractions.The

waistisone-fourth

widths,twice

rist boneequals

underthe chin.Three

alsoncearoundthe

zefromwhichall

ndsmalleris the

nchbust,andthe

lotofmeasure-

no twopersonswill

doingthat,use the

measurestoderive

kethewristmeas-

neandmultiplyit

easureas:thewrist

edbysixequals36

eneckmeasure

ultiplyitbythreeto

s:the neckmeasures

y3 is36inchesfor

easuringhas proven

zes andmakesof

fanindividualmay

rthanthesizederived

ot meanthatthe

dby theneckmeas-

in Figures3and

e andlines"B"

argerbusts.How-

and"B"oneither

epattern.Pleasenote

eirbackshasre-

onlythe measure-

changed.Therefore,

ualsuse thesize

eckmeasureand

ebustasdiscussed

ges 40,42,44.

aller bustthan

thesamesizepat-

ofthewidthacross

ervethattheneck

ofmeasureforthe

andthat nomatter

heindividualmay

epatternindicatedby

ralathleticforms

fmaterialused today,

hantheyused tobe,


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27/208

"PRIMARILYIMPORTANT"to"eyefit"theindividual.

eofherposture,to observewhetherhershouldersarehighas

2; roundasFigures3and 4,ornormalanderectas Figure5.


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28/208

waysstandbackof

aist.

ndthe back7

he hipline.

aximum9inches

thebustline.The

rthan9 inchesbut

depthfromtheneck

aken.

mtheneckinthe

nuglybut not

.

ut butnottight

necktowaist.

thelengthmeasure

andsubtractthe

sdesiredshorter.

akea twoinch

nsert apencilinthis

ht underthearm

hesleevelength and

his.

waistmeasure,hip

ength.

nyouwill note

kentaut aroundthe

ndthat thewrist

rthe wristbone.

SURES

6 38404244 46

53739

749

hehasthepowerto do.A

sfaith.Whenfaithmoves,the

act ofwillrequiresanobject.

mething,andhemusthavefaith

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29/208

eoplein theworldtheCan'ts,theWon'ts,andtheWills.The Can'tsfailineverything,

hing,andtheWillsaccomplisheverything."WILLIAMT.ELLIS.


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30/208

succeeds

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31/208

ADINGMETHOD

ftingorgarment

s verysimple,isvery

areveryeasyto fol-

nsusedin thebook

ppear.

ectionsfor draft-

henumerousmeas-

,becausenotwoper-

alike.Thedirections

e patternsasused

ommercialpatterns.

adaptationsneces-

toallrequiredmeas-

sofadjustingthepat-

eto thesepatterns

ns.

dillustrationsin

e16 pattern(34

esameprocedureis

ns.Size16is com-

PER"patternandis

facturingtradein

er sizes.Whendraft-

nsin thisbookyou

scontinuouslyrefer

foreachsizelarger

aller.This is,in

allpattern grading,

becomefamiliarwith

mentsbecausethe

draftingisSELF

atall directions

epatternslargeror

euseofthe words

patterndrafting

hey needtobeof

rdlead pencil(num-

leas thelineswill

notaddtothe size

are willbeadvan-

othermeasuring

owever,ifyoudonot

sheettosquareyour

ulerformeasuring.A

testhedrawingof

youproceedinthis

chartwhichhasbeen

urvedlinesinpattern

a scissors,atracing

chwillnotstretch.

mamountofequip-

hedirectionsinthis

aftalltypesandsizes

owthedirections

chstepasitis given

results.

essmakertomake

rold schoolboyor

ns,and"Believeitor

epleasurein tak-

ethe desiredpat-

simplifiedfitting

to fityou.Justtell

dbrotherthat you

fshorts forhimif

eywill bedelighted

hesegarmentsand


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32/208

RVECHART

usevarioustypes

ves.Therefore,to

nes inpattern

urney curvechart.

ullsize.Placea

epageandtracethe

hechart.Fromthis

avypaper.

lainedonthefol-


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33/208

RVECHART

sothatthe under

der armseamofthe

echartfollowsthe

oTto VtoDD.The

owsthe front

UtoB.Mark16

sB andDDmeet

beyondR andQas

all curvesinall


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34/208

YCURVECHART

sbackwith theuse

k,omittingthe

veandhipcurve.

eforsize16, place

intDDso thechart

e.Thiswill locate

oflineC.Foreach

oint16ofthe chart

hinfrompointDD,

/4 inchinfromDD,

/2 mcnfromDD,for

fromDD,etc.For

djust theopposite

eexceptionthatwe

hsize atDDasfor

point 16is%inch

zes.

veplacepointJ of

echartcontactsline

placeletter Mat

tsdotLandoutline.

sfront withtheuse

t,omittingthe

veandhipcurve.

curveforsize 16,

tonpointBso the

outline.Thiswill

sectionoflineCC.

ze 16,point16of

ed1/4mcnmfrom

nt16is 1/4inchin

nt16is 1/oinchin

6is% inchinfrom

rweproceedjustthe

rwith theexception

for eachsizeatB

an16,point16is

r allsizes.Figure2

ze 40,therefore,it

ofthechartis %,

veplacepoint 16

chartwillcontact

eplaceletter

ntactsdotLand

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35/208

CURVE CHART


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36/208

eedgeofthe papernearesttoyou.

thepapertotheright ofyoumarkA.

ze16 andincreasesysinchforeachsize largeruptoand includingsize

oreachsize smallerincludingsize12.

the garment.

A, B,C,D,E,F,G. Ifyoudonot haveasquareusea lettersheetto

e16 andincreasesyzinchforeachsize largeranddecreasesyzinch

wlineAAto FFandmarkCC,DD,EEat theintersections.

nefromIthrough Hthefulllengthof thegarmentandmarkGG

eG.

neJtoK.

istmeasureplus1inch.Draw thecurvedlineMto L.

16 andincreasesV&inchforeachsize largeranddecreasesysinch

alinedown fromO.

awalinefromN throughOO.

e16 andincreases14inchforeachsize largeranddecreases!/4inch

line PtoPPand markRandSat theintersectionsasillustrated.

nches.DrawlineU toUandmarkV inthecenter.

VtoDD.

andmarkBBattheintersectionwithline B.

eN toWandmarkX inthecenter.

vedlineYtoX toN.

ofthe two-piecedressasfollows:

h.

alinef rom4to2.

s3to5.

ne6to7.Drawcurveline7toM.

e8to9.Drawcurvedline9toM.

edressproceedthesameasforthe dartinthetwo-piecedress.Extend

awlines3 to10.

erylooseaddyzmcnas DDtoZon thesideandY-iinch asRtoY on

esiredshorterRtoyis 14inch.ReducefromytoV asthedashed

llowaY-i inchseamatthenecklineand %inchseamselsewhere.

ourageandskill.


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37/208

CK

haptersonMeas-

Thenfollowdirec-

ompleteeachstep.

usethe Gurney

,33,and35.

gpractiseitis

normalstandard

4bust, 37hip).The

draft allsizes.Then,

pattern(bothback

ngthepaperpat-

thepattern,referto

methodof Adapting

easurementsand

easenotethatthis

methodsdescribed

etoallsizesandmakes

hepaperpattern

pattern.

methodto pro-

fortheslightlyround

s.Cutthepattern

nopenone-halfinch

owappearas dotted

elineat 9.Line2

s.This methodpro-

s.Furtherillustra-

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38/208

theedgeofthe papernearesttoyou.

thepapertotheright ofyoumarkA.

6 andincreases14,inchforeachsizelarger uptoandincludingsize

foreachsize smallerincludingsize12.

s.

edartand is1inchfor size16.Thedartincreases1/&inch foreach

/8inchfor eachsizesmaller.

ebac k .

A, B,C,E,F.

e16 andincreases1/2inchforeachsizel argeranddecreases1/2inch

wlineAAto FFmarkingBB,CC,EEattheintersectionsas illus-

GequalsF toGofthe back.Drawarightangleline fromG.

efromIthroughH untilitintersectslineG andmarkthispointGG.

aw lineJtoK.

waistmeasureplus1inch.Drawcurvedline MtoL.

e16 andincreases%inchforeachsize largeranddecreases1/6inch

alinedown fromO.

alinefrom NthroughP.

ackshoulderless 14inch.

e16 andincreases14inchforeachsize largeranddecreases14inch

awlineR toS.

hes.Drawline TtoT.

wcurvedlineQ toRtoUtoB .

%inch.Draw linesV toXandV2toX .

w linesNto3, 2to3, anAA to3.

s%inch.

vedlineNto6to7to5to2.

curvedline Mto10to 8.Thislineis thecuttinglineforboth theskirt

ooseadd1/2inchas BtoZand 14.inchasQto Y.

esiredshorterQtoyis14 inch.ReduceasytoU illustrates.

llowa14-inchseamat thenecklineand%-inchseamselsewhere.


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39/208

ONT

aysmakeback

ecurvesusethe

32.

atternyouwill,to

rtotheChapter

StandardPattern

Requirements."

e waist,cutthe

decreasethedart at

ustrates.

ithandWill


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40/208

SIZESTANDARDPATTERNS

MENTS

atterns

gtotheGurney

draftingwillproduce

otheStandardTable

sasize 16isa34

Size40isa 34waist,

hefitting illustra-

fittingbytheGurney

changetheshoulder

hefittingwherefit-

efficientandeco-

ndschools,it is

completesetof lin-

e-fit"theindividual.

orextendedobserva-

ngthematerial.

GERAROUND

ern wasmadefor

nd37hip,but thein-

8 inches.Thisindi-

tbe madeoneinch

samountis divided

lbenotedin Figures

ge.Dto3 oftheback

e amount(1/4)

addedatthebottom

back.Wewillnow

tern,43hipisused,

eindividualis45

thepatternmustbe

oundthehips.Again,

e-fourthofthe

pline,D to3on both

amountatthebot-

tternwill havebeen

erfromthehiptothe

3 to4.Ifthe waist

continuetheline

sdottedline 3toC

waistmustbemade

eamountatthe

to5both backand

hebackas5 toB

hedart. Wehave

nforlargerhipsand

alterationscanbe

ment.Whencutting

inchfor allseams.

RHIGH

oulders.When

atternon anindi-

observethatafold

3 inchesbelowthe

1i llustrates.The

ofinsufficientmate-

Theoutlineofthe

sthenormalshoul-

houlderedindividual

back14to1/2i nch

rawanewline as

earmscyemustbe

h frontandbackas

circumferenceofthe

e.Generallynopro-

shoulderedindi-


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41/208

DIVIDUALREQUIREMENTS

ptingthenormal

dividualrequire-

and slopingshoul-

makesofpatterns.

oteofthei ndi-

cewithdescriptionof

uresasonPages25

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42/208

ULDEREDINDIVIDUAL

tageandgreattime

acompletesetof

ea setofdresslin-

.Ifso,youwill besur-

es,andforabnormal

o noteessential

ycanbetakencare

al.Pleasenotethat

methodsoffitting

ofpatterns.

ance.Toobtain

panswillhang

wopans mustbe

ngthehumanfigure,

dbeforethegarment

whathappenswhen

balancedonthefig-

G,B,N,R,DD,and

N,2,Gillustratea

thenormalfigure.

whathappenswhen

ormalandtheywill

wingdiscussionon

3Bthe sizeof

ytheneckmeasure

alterations.Imme-

nklesformedas

ackandwhichextend

.Alsoyouwill ob-

sopen atthehem-

r5on Figure3B

nein theback.This

heshadedportions

2.

hingsisthel ack

thearmscyetothe

oBinFigure 1.In

hasa slightlyround

erblades,whichre-

akemyself,

estof whatGod

.

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44/208

ULDEREDINDIVIDUAL(Continued)

equiredlengthat

lderedindividual,

gardlessofthe

ngsinits proper

ure5 B.Itwillthen

oolowattheneck

illustrates.How-

dfromAtoB isthe

ckhastobe made

otheneck.If, for

beencutthisre-

aybeobtainedby

theback1/2inchand

he front1/2inch

dtwo,equalthere-

ndthecircumfer-

nsthesame.Conse-

postureattitudeof

ncanbemade when

nacommercialpat-

oldof V2inchacross

the backportion

elowtheshoulderand

us,the combined

equal1 inch.Ifthe

oulderedasFigure 3,

thealreadyob-

onmaybemadefor

escribedandillus-

, 39.

strationofhow

edextralengthfrom

gure6B illustrates

ofcambric,about21/2

yto positionacross

eshoulderline. Put

lsothattheneck

lintheproperposi-

he backjustbelow

ortiondrop sothat

tion.Pinitfirmlyto

ntfromC toDandE

ecorrectamount

be madelongerto

ment.

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hes.A iscenterof

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ointFwillthen

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vecurve.The pat-

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45/208

FADAPTINGCOMMERCIAL

NDSHOULDERED

ersontheback

ckis madelonger

nas 5to5 and

s theshading5to6

hepattern asO-AB

2mcndeeperasB

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maybemadeat the

age 46,fig.8;page

rtismade1/2 inch

V2 foldas7to 8

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ferenceofthearm-

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ARMENTSFORHIGHSHOULDERS

as beenmade

mentsforahighshoul-

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46/208

dein thebackof

garmentfitbetter

ofthebackofthe

sforprotruding

cksmaybemadeeither

thegarment.

preferabletomake

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gpurposeful.Also

theinsideandthere

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andthis willnot

hegarment.It is

sonthe straight

than slantingthem

atedtucksarevery

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re,itisadvisableto

tionand the

e back.Youwill

2 inchesinlength

einwidth.Thus%inch

odof designing

ucks.0utlinethe

B, C,D,E,F.For

thepatternfor-

dF toG.Whilethe

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erasBBtoCC.Hold

ngthelowerportion

t Dison dotDas

tlinethearmscyeas

ackisdesiredstill

o8.

odof makingpin

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ttedlines6toAA to

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rom10 to9and

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48/208

WITHLARGEBUST

individualwith

stratedbylineBin

willnotethewrin-

numbers1and2

asnumber3 inFig-

willnotethatthe

ehipline,cupsin, and

nthefrontas illus-

onsG toG3onFig-

etus assumethatthe

6 patternbyherneck

albustmeasureis

patternforheryou

malloverthe bust

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size36patternyou

ctlyattheback,

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tternleavingit

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e dartswhichwill

orshoulderdarts.

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ronttwoinchesbelow

onthe individual

e fronttotheunder

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A toB.Thus,the

extralengthrequired

e patternasit

ust fitted.Youwill

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epatternonlineO to

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49/208

snotin neverfall-

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(Continued)

atl amhere

ndwoe.

urk

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(Continued)

alwiththeexces-

edby lineBinFig-

nthis personwewill

e foundinthenor-

seasemi-frenchdrap-

vidualandtodoso

aldart VtoV1.

inaldart.E toE1

donthepatternso

and cutthelining

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ntjustbelowthe

andcut thelining

he fullestpartof

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the liningdrop

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mbricwhichis

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ill beinastraight

e patternwill

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ransposedto the

ure11.

ntfromXtoX2 is

dartanditmaybe

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erarmdart. Ifyou

morecutthepattern

enasF toFFone

willbe usedasgath-

t thedarthasbeen

D toD1.

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EFRONT

oubleandneutral

hefrontfor aflat

vidualwithsmall

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he armscye.

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ks.DrawlineRto

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the patternatthe

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53/208

OVERTHEBUSTWITHOR

TUCKS

kingandSewing

possibleto mark

thchalk,etc.Cuta

apeas theupperpor-

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inchas 2to4 and3

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,ifgathersarenot

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he BustWithout

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terfront.

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ntpatternisdesired

placepointBon B2

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placeVonpoint V3

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rates andmaybe

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waistlineM2 toM

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ckson thepaper

e,pin ittoposition

longstitch,stitch

emovethe paper,

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54/208

LL-FITTINGGARMENTS

NS

ysrolledinbolts.

nsidehalfof the

ward,sometimesas

Salespeoplegenerally

aterialaccordingto

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tonthe bias.Hence,

ohavethe material

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yonthetable.If so,

onecornerfirmlyand

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on thebias,thus

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are evenattheends

materialwilllie

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pressonlythe wrin-

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arpthreadsare not

rimarycauseofill-

nts.

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55/208

ANDMAKINGGARMENTS

enthoroughly

yourpatternonit

owever,Ioftenwon-

toutgarmentson

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t canbeplacedon

asacuttingtable,

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ethatallmaterials

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he edgeofnews-

en withthenews-

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esitis preferable

ortionofthepattern

.Justalittle differ-

hegarment,andis

nggarments.When

duplicateportions

patternscouldtalk,

mwhentheyareso

p.Therefore,toob-

ndpin thepattern

lcorrectly.Ifyouare

htweightfabrics

rialandpaper.

edalluncertainty

essentialof garment

thasbeencutcor-

encutout youwill

tchesandtailortack

acommercialpat-

ectionsheet and

ate.

ofthegarmentis

ngerthanthefront

dontothe frontto

dbytheshoulder

therthepatternhas

y.Whenbastingthe

theneck,thefront

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itwillbe easyto

s.(In sewing,itis

bsteals).If thefront

ranequalamount

houlderwhichis

otheneck.Please

sthebacktoolong,

be toolongand

rmenthasbeenfitted.

under-armseams

splacethe garment

the edgeseven.Pin

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57/208

ASUREMENTSAPPLICABLE

RNS

npattern drafting

mercialpatternshow

of obtainingthe

theupperportion

f GradingMethod

aticallyprovidesfor

eandarmscye(arm-

of thepattern,but

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s requiredwiththe

beuncomfortable.

mallpersonsfre-

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ouproceedin this

methodsofmaking

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atterns.Whendraft-

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themediumtight

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rSize 16is13inches

chsize largerand

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ghtdresssleeve.

eedgeofthe papernearest

epapertothe rightofyou

6 andincreasesV4inch

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DRESSOR COATSLEEVE

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tsleeve.Thisisa continu-

sleeve.

ze16and increases%

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hrough15.

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ches.

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emighty oak;within

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VE

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EVEMADETIGHTONTHEWRIST

tcoatsleeve.

esleeveisdesired

maximum3inches.

to15soit

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hes.

ts18and18 ofthe

nts17and 17onthe

cuttingthepattern.

onewhofinds

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EDIFFERSFROMALL

EPATTERNS

aftingoftheGurney

straight downfrom

Bto9and BBto9.

eslantedtotheelbow

redraftedasthelines

o 10to13.There-

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cularpartof thearm

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eof whateverenters

izationofyour

obeableto condition

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NDCOATSLEEVE

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EJACKETANDCOATSLEEVE

etsleevedraft the

gerthan foradress,

largerthanthecoat

tedasfor the

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ATTHETOPFOR

odof enlargingthe

rgearmbut isan

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oint Fcontactsline

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pwill nowbeasthe

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FORTHEBIGARM

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thlineA toB.

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wlineHthroughG

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nch asXtoM and

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notchesatK2and L2

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LESHORTSLEEVE

allyindicateon

erethepattern isto

e.However,toposi-

fortableshortsleeve

ersheetof paperas

Finthe center.

hesleevecap as

nethroughG

swingthepattern

asIandoutline

swingthepattern

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methodwillpro-

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GERORSMALLERATTHEWRIST

C,D,W.

w lineEtoFpar-

hes.

ountf romItoF

andJ.

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flineEto I.

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smalleratthe

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e loweredasL2

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whensewingthe

wideratthewrist

ndthesleevewill

3illustratesand

l havedecreasedas

tes.NotchesL3and

thofthe sleeve

nFand thesleeve

ver

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HISGATHEREDATTHEBOTTOM

as1, 2,3,4,5.

enterof1toI.

enterofEto4.

centerofHto5.

esleevecap.

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sI please.

cky-IwishIcould.

tI can;thatpro-

ationofhavingdone

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ttomof thesleeve

oughF,HthroughE,

ndJthroughD.

raw alineas3

e sleevepatternon

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raw alineasB

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tdresssleeve.

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s.

raw lineDtoDD.

ofthedesired

kGatthe inter-

rkHatthe inter-

.

qual portionsas:

markIat the

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markJand16

dmarkKand17

dmarkLand18

dmarkMand19

dmarkNand20

sleevetraceon

O toG.A lsotrac eall

them.

ion ofthesleeve

oH.Cut onlinesI

o18,Mto19,N

htofthematerial.

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rgeatElbow,SmallatWrist)

tsleevethat is

allatthewrist.Use

epatternand proceed

emethodasde-

leeveinFigure11.

% inchforallseams,

steit inthecoat,

eyouto locatethe

erQFigure 13,any

in thesleeveasde-

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dseamline asQ

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TTERNFORWOOLENGARMENTS

eelasticthansilk

dvisableforwoolen

one-halfto onewhole

dress.Thisapplies

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ainthehipmeasure

ust sizeproceedas

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aintheshoulder

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usinggood ma-

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atisfactiontoyour

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SLIP

B,C,D,E,EE,

eashortright

line3 to4.

nes5to7and7to4

ade1inchwider

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RESS

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thmay bemade

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LLARS

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awline10to12.

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most widelyused

paratelyfromthe

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mG15inches

mB3incheslong.

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SURE-FITCOLLARDRAFTING

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rtwaistcollarand

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ST

atternas A,N,Q,

elwith thecen-

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verylooseand

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tfittedmakethe

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suallynotdesired

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rment.

ackasA, N,R,D,

elwith thecen-

illprovidetheordi-

morefitted, reduce

d.

erylooseadd1/

k, andB2toEof the

mustbeaddedat

e madeinthecen-

shouldersinthe

s36,46, and47.

maybe usedwith

scribedonpage94.

nt.

nd placeitaslet-

eshoulder seams

opositionso the

centerfrontaslet-

einset 3.

ith thewrong

DtoD willmeet

right sidesto-

oldisover thecollar.

opositionaslet-

with a1/4inch

eralplacesso the

rnthebias andthe

arment.

thepleatmaybe

dinFigure 4.

cuttingthegarment.

ehappyandthat

so.


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88/208

ARTS

2,M,EE,illus-

ulardresspattern.

nterfrontasW2

W.

ntofthegarment

bust.The dressdart

eusualtypeof dart

extendsamaxi-

mscyeasillustrated

cedesiredas

ymustalwayspoint

stas illustratedby

eWto W2.How-

dsthatthispointbe

etter Z.W2toZ

ndincreases1/8inch

l alsonotein

edartis governed

atedthesamedis-

tYas theunder

eas shownbythe

mber6,3,7and5

hedartincreases

ein length.

sposingof the

terfront.Topro-

tthe centerfront

nterfronttoWas

toY.

YtoV . P lac eV

tedandthecenter

oYtoW3.

ottedlinesillustrate

onthecenterfront

oregathersmaybe


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89/208

toprovidethe

ersatthe shoulder

nefromthecenter

terofW2toW.

hecenterfrontas

nthisline.Make

eVto Yandfold

eV2toZ.Pin itin

owappearas dotted

s.NN to5is %

mN to5to4 as

om4to5 istobe

regathersare de-

Y to8andspread

inchatY gradually

ountfrom5to 6will

ngthegarmentthe

nchonto material

aightofthegoods.

rom Nand2inches

sposingof the

mscyetoprovide

picturei llustrates.

nterfronttoWas

e.

nchlowerthan5.

Y.Cutonlines5

will spreadas

mountf rom3to

egatheredinonline

desiredcutthe pat-

adthe patternopen


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90/208

sposingof the

thersattheendof

nterfronttoWas

abovetheolddart

WtoYas5toY2.

hequaltoWtoV .

nesNto6and

to6,6 toY2and

thepatternwill

o7.

meetthecenter

tes.

8willbeused

sposingof the

klinetoprovide

8 illustrate.

nterfronttoW

2to 3is11/2inches,

ine3to4.

7is\ \ 'o inches, 7

7toY, 8toYand

dlineYto V.

heamountofthe

fourcutlines,this

tuck,pleat,etc.

yalsobe gatheredin.


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91/208

sposingof the

hewaistlineorto

ureillustrates.

nterfronttoW

asYto3. Cut

.

wdartisas 3to

maybeusedas

tedontheunder-

eas4to Y.

dYtoV . P lac e

tw illbeas4toYto

hoker"neckline.

artto thecenter

e 2,page88.

aras W3toN2as

eup.

mthecenterfront

rvedlineN2toD.

asB2toQ2 to

histypeofdress is

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92/208

oulderline dropped

eblouse.

easN toNNand

NNtoQQ.Xis

this lineand

wdarttobeused

toY toX2.

c h1/2inc h.Draw

peaksno ill,

ue,

ness'still

toaid

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93/208

KET(BOLERO)

ckas: A,D,E,

4 attheintersec-

5to1.

o5to7.

sasmall dartwill

as 2to6 to8.

thedottedline

ont asletters2,

rtheEtonJacket

transposedto the

osethedart,makea

enterfrontline as

chesfor size16

arger.NtoNN is

o Z.(Thewidthof

1/4inch atWtoX.)

Z.Cut thepattern

din thepattern

oversothefold

Z.Pinitin this

owappearas dotted

artissewedto 1'/o

es.


/http://www.h



94/208

AT

s describedon

raftthecoatpatterns.

haslargerhips or

plainedinthechapter

vidualmeasuresand

esamechangesshould

portions,the front

insaid chapterbefore

atternas BtoD,

N,NtoR ,R toDD,

oJ. Forc oatsthe

eperthan forthe

urvedlinefrom8 to

ine,coatsaremade

he dress.Thus,Hto

4of11/2inches.Jto J2

neH2to32.Mto1is

1toH2.Drawa line

ebackandproducesa

edat thewaist.Ifit

tlessfittedatthe

oDD.Drawaline8to

ed.Thismethod

geenough.Whencut-

ch forseams.Ifitis

ryloose,1/2 inchmay

rom8toJ2.I fso,a

donthe sleeveseam.

smalldartson

back,whichareespe-

oplewithprominent

thedartproceedas

o3 andmakea

point5.Theamount

zeofthedart. When

ines 6to7and 7

ngas6to 3to2.

ll makefewermis-

sthem.Cavour.


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95/208

AT

sclenched.

eopen.

grasp

orldall

pedaway.


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96/208

ATContinued

ontpatternas let-

,Q toB ,B toV,V to

Wisc enterofV to

artistransposedto

posethedart, drawa

enterfrontlineas

nchforsize16, 34

oreachsizelarger.

s.DrawalineNN to

inefromNNtoZ.

ade14inchlarger

X.Drawa linefrom

makeafoldinthe

nthisfold soitcon-

Pinit tothisposi-

epatternwill be

erseamand appearas

Q2andB2 illustrates.

made1inch deeper

dline10to 11asillus-

wa linefrom10to

toH2of theback ,

esameasJtoJ2of

oJ2and1 toH2.If

fittedaddat1 toE

backanddrawaline

front lapofthe

o5isthesame.Draw

ercoat,whichdoes

to4is 11/2inches,G

2to3is1/4inc h, 4to6

hrough3. Drawa

aightcoatit ispre-

thefront.Thus,

cutthefacingfoldthe

to5,NNto8is%

wa linefrom8to

acingonline8to 9.

roundandallow%

oldon line4to5. Cut

e.The facingwill

82, 82to92.The col-

utonthe crosswise

ncheswidef1nished.

ollaronthe double.

m.Thiscompletesthe

esiredveryloose,1/2

patternfrom10toJ2.

eaddedonthe sleeve

o 11/2inchesabove

sleevepattern2

pattern,asforsize

ve,etc.,forallsizes.

art

ouds


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98/208

GSHINE

fhardtwistedma-

ematerialto shine.

dintailoring we

htside ofthemate-

btainthe required

materialstheseams

hasmallsponge.

edbypressinguse a

ofan oldsheet,etc.

git outbyhandas

ampcloth onthe

ronready,just touch

e ironandthe

e.It isimpossible

r,however.Thegar-

ydrycleaning.

ngthatshalltake

world'svaststore,

stomake

ittlemore.

lfishdeed

eartoffoeor

,worthyneed,

oulddefend.

orldlywealth

tshallaid mykind,

oughtofhealth,

bledheartstofind.

crossthespan

tomy conscience

tobeastor man

vedtoday."


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99/208

TERNOVERTHEBUST

ntlynecessaryto

verthebust portion

.Todoso,use the

page96,to outline

o 5,2toN, Nto7,

Q toB,B toM,andM

esolidline.Toen-

overthe bust,2to22

ame.Wenowplace

epatternondots22

ionmakenewlinesas

om73 toZ2,73to

dH2.Seedotted

2.Drawlinesfrom

s,thedart inthe

Voinchandthe pat-

overthebust.If the

hlargeroverthe

s1inch.Thenproceed

patternforastill

1/, inchlarger,add

as2toXand5toX

al% inch,ismade

llustrates.Wenow

mtothehip lineasB2

sthatthefront

aybe usedtoenlarge

,

e;

ndweary

rife.

les?

rain?

ted;

n.


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100/208

usethe regular

lerthan youusefor

ketuse asize16

:B,C, D,E,F,

hofthejacket.

mC,D,E,F, G.

H2is1/2inch.

2toH2.

oinc h.

inc h.Drawa

h2andmark5

oulderl ineand6

toDD.

1/4inches.Draw

h4.

wcurvedline9

wcurvedline11

e11 through13.

acurvedlinefrom

/, inchdeeper

2.

ont asletters2,

H.Forthejacket,

transposedtothe

osethedart,makea

enterfrontline as

hesfor size16,plus

er.Nto5 is11/4inch,

ualsNto9of the

rawcurvedline9 to

fthe dartincreases

nesVtoZ andXto

9toZ.Makea foldin

ndfoldit oversothe

toZ.Pinit inthis

owappearas dotted

Thearmscyeisdeep-

ustrates.Thebutton-

Eto E2.Drawaline

ntas E2toF2.The

esaboveZasZ2illus-

nef rom3tothe

m3to33 is2%

%inches.Drawa

alinefrom33 to

curvedlinefrom

strated.

pelcrease.

gh10andmark


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101/208

TTERN


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102/208



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104/208

AT

atbackas de-

tters B,D,E,F,G,

thearmscyeas

oB.Drawright-

,andG.

inc h. F to7equals

ne from4through

mentasK.Drawa

mark6atthe inter-

k5atthe intersection

h0tothebottom

14inches.

waline from9

rvedline12 to11.

urvedline13 to14.

ne from13

inefrom 15to1/2

atfront withthe

ulderseamand the

perasB2to 10as

letters 2,W2,EE,

I,H2, J2.(Change

ndNNto12. )

ss1/4 inch.

us14 inch.

ndfrom13

f thegarmentas15.

nda linefrom

omofthegarment

rmenttobemore

alinefrom12 to

ugh20thefull

esepoints must

toE,H2toH3, and

overthebustadd

nefrom20to21and

neasthe dotted

epattern onan-

cingwheeltracethe

racethefrontofthe

the patternand

thepattern.


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106/208

LAN

donotpermit

blethatyou usea

d.

correctraglan

elaborate,detailed

hedirections,step

withtheresults.

regulardress

redsizeasdescribed

9onwhich,in accord-

ptingthe patternto

orhighshoulders,etc.,

Forthe sleeve,the

edwith theexcep-

sleevepatternis2

pattern.Asfor

rn size40isused,

ck,to draftthe

sizedress backpat-

,D,M, H,J.

yofeasyfit,there-

MtoIisU/2inches.

s1/2inc h.Draw

toJ2asillustrated.

ntobeused fordraft-

tpatternhasin

ternmaythen,if so

the bottom1V3or

aightlinefromD2.

ethodof making

Aftertheraglan

omaketheback

fromdot 14ordot

Sparallel withthe

the patternonthis

chesormoreas S

afttheraglan

zedress frontpat-

Q,B,V,V2,M,

V2.Drawaright

ront asW2toW.

ze16plus %inch

Nis114 inch.

orall coats,the

V2 toX.Drawlines

patternontheline

patternon the

s foldsoitcon-

hepatternwill

W2toW3.Extend

2to2A,Bto Cis

,Hto H2is1/2inch,

CtoI, ItoH2 and

paredthepattern

oatpattern.

tpatternhasin

ternmaythenbe

1V2or 2inchesin

ckfromC, asD


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107/208

nued


/http://www.h



108/208

nued

nthat is2sizes

rn.As forasize36

ttern,etc.for allsizes.

the sleeve10

e papernearestto

edgeofthepaper

thesleeveas

waline1 to3.

A isthec enterof

rough4at the

op,markdot2. 2

htanglelinesfrom

esleeveline,mark

s9bothwaysis1/4

rnsotheshoulder

armscyeofthe

epatternfirmly in

e wholebackas

ItoH2, andcon-

tD2maycomeon

orbelowitaccording

Dot12is %inch

inc h.Drawa

dot12.12 todot

ots T,bothways,

thearmscyeismade

otX. 0todot15is

s%mcn-Drawa

ot16to dotTand

ompletestheback

ositionso the

t9and sothatthe

seitherattheline

accordingtodot

otsD2andCmust

ine 1to3.Hold

ositionandoutline

o2, 2toW3,W3to

fulllength.Also

hesideseamI,H2,

dline7 andmark

ofthefrontarms-

of7to17,Nto19is

ne 19to18.This

8is4 inches.The

de1 inchdeeperas

fromdot8to dot

sleeveismadeV2

ItoY.Drawa

21toYandStoY

erpoints,dot 2

dthefrontand back

trate.Placeapiece

and withatracing

theline 0to15,15

ndYto11. Then

3. Thiscompletes

e.Forthefront

3,Nto 19,19to8,

emovethetraced

n linesBtoE

0to16, 16toT, T

cutthefront part,

7, 17toX ,X toI,

m19todot2, 2to

inuethefulllength,

dZ todotW3.


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109/208

LEEVE


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110/208

OAT

heregularcoat

epened,asdescribed

nwhichalllettersB,

aremarked.Draw

enterbackline to

wline12 to14paral-

wline13 to15paral-

urvedline16to 17

parallelwiththe

o18.

awline15to 19.

each%inch.Draw

e regularcoat

s94,95, isused,

NN,N3,Q2,10,I,

ncoatthe loca-

elapel.Therefore,

the shoulderseam.

ea newmarkon

2 toXis2V2 inches.

enowcutthe regu-

eNNtoZ andalso

elineNNtoZ

N3toZand pinit

rt underthelapel

0willbeformed.

mthe centerfront

wline12to 14paral-

wline13to 15paral-

urvedlines16to 17

parallelwiththecen-

awline15to19.

each%inch.Draw

ntraceonlines 17

traceon lines17

se later.

nes16 to17to19

es 16to17 to19

ndback.

cuttingthegarment.

einhumanity,believe

rtakings.Fearnoth-

work.Work,hope,

day.You cannot


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111/208

OAT


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112/208

OATSLEEVE

wo sizeslargerthan

npage58andoutline

X, P.

X.

rmentas Qto16

dtothe sleeveasF

elocated11/oinches

s%inch. Pto4is

2to 3and2to 4.

omthefrontpart of

eetsXandsopoint 17

eas10to 21to

0.

atternportion on

0andswingit out

outlineas:XXto

wcurvedline21B

curvedline0to 23.

artofthe sleeve.

omthebackpart of

etsXandsopoint 17

eas17to 20to

s 0.

atternportion on

0andswingit out

doutlineas:XXto

wcurvedline21B

curvedline0to 23.

artofthe sleeve.


/http://www.h



113/208

h.This% inchis

eslong.

ined as:Cto22

oWto2toWto23

oCC .

hesleevearoundthe

ow%inchseams

.

s.

preferabletomakea

lappingover the

derthe%inchseam

garmentto15 onthe

sfirmly.

thesleeve%,inch

sfirmly.

veatthecurvesfrom

egarmentagainst

sleeve.Thedart

eetthe shoulderseam

ap seams14inch


/http://www.h



114/208

COAT

k.

atbackwithouta

onpage96, 97,as:

T,R, N.

ndswingit so

outlinebackas:R

3.

reswaggerbyhold-

wingingpointJ3

0to J3.

dthe patternat10

emarkfrom10

ddthesame

to10.Ifthe coatis

thepatternfromthe

mN toRparallelwith

bottomandspread

tedfor theRaglan


/http://www.h



115/208

COAT

t.

ntasdescribedon

V,Q2,Z2,4, N2.

heback.

n theback.

heback.

eback.

oJ3.

ddthesame

masV to10.

o,

ndblue,

meinview,

ng

ing.

bring;

say,

yourway,

ay;

stay;

w,

grow,

know

heygo;


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116/208

GLAN

donotpermit

blethatyou usea

d.

seasheetof

rn1 inchfrom

resttoyouand12

e papertotheright

ackas:A,B, C,

andplacethe

Hsotheneckpoint

s: G,I,J,K, L.

frontand back

K andE.

dthof thesleeve.

nd OasNto NN

wa lineasPto Q

inesNto NNand

willtouchdotH and

equal.

alinethrough T

dmarkUat thein-

vecurveandVat the

evecurve.

Wat theinter-

rve.

eYtoX .

vedlineZto X.

4.

5at theinter-

ve.

e6to5.

%inch.

o9.

osedtofitmore

ts,therefore,weadd

seamonboththe

andEto11.

n thefollowing

, 11.

K,12.

allow%inchseams.

oodandtrue;

estyouhave,

kto you."


/http://www.h



117/208PublicDomain,

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/http://www.h


_use#pd-g

oogle


118/208

LYDRESSANDSLEEVE

eedgeofthe paper

thepapertothe

ntA andoutline

erofthebackto

D andmarkEE

eagainstthe back

s:N, 2,BB,8,E,B.

eunderarmpoints

toDD.

dthofthesleeve.

thelengthofthe

ntersectionofline

thelengthofthe

ntersectionofline

etweenlines4and

uchpointRandso

willcontactline4

tactline5asP.

y desiredwidth.

to EandOOto

ewaistline.

ndmark13in

awcurvedlineE

rawline14to15.

efront.

k8in thecenter.

curvedline7 to9

drafted.

EEto10to OOto

ead thepatterna

maximumof5inches

llustrates.Onthe

ndspreadthe same

swill providefor

kpatterns.

mcurvea biasfold

eamfrom7toEE to

tearingatthis point.


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119/208

DSLEEVE


/http://www.h



120/208

RESSANDCOATPATTERNS

redraftedbythe

kenstraightaround

of thesleeveis

thewrist.Takethe

the necktothe

eedgeofthe

e6 andincreases

anddecreases%

Makerightangle

ze6 andin-

zelarger andde-

zesmaller.

arkCCandDD

ndmarkGGat

6 andincreases

anddecreases%

6 andincreases

r anddecreases%

wlinePtoPP

ction.

zes.Omaycome

pointP.

awlineNtoOO.

nches.Draw

e center.

D.

andmarkBBat

ontofthecoat:

es.

hes.Drawline

theneckcurve.

oG3.

shoulderis 1l/o

kXin thecenter.

vedlineYtoX

theedgeofthe

epapertothe

back.

A,C, B,F.

ze6 andincreases

PublicDomain,

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121/208

OAT PATTERN


/http://www.h



122/208

LEEVEPATTERNS

eedgeofthe paper

thepapertothe

6 andincreases

r anddecreases14

th.

A,B, C,E.

size6 andin-

zelarger andde-

zesmaller.

awlineAAto

ttheintersections.

wlineF toFF

tofthe material.

h.

2 andincreases

eranddecreases1/

aw lineGtoGG

tion.

ineR toGG.

JtoPtoQ toF .

6 andincreases

anddecreases1/g

rawlineK to

section.

lineTto KK.

oL toPtoQ toF .

sleevepatterntwo

ressas:size6 coat

etc.

Voinchasthe dot-

illustrate.


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123/208

BASTINGSLEEVES

ying onasleeve

to thegarment,as

toosmall,toolong,

properlyfitteduntil

e garmentfollow

ternandmatchall

owever,iftheindi-

asillustrated by

willhangforward.

rsonthenotches

ed14to%inchfur-

hesofthe garment.

ureillustrate the

ettersAindicate

esleeve,butwhich

nasthefullnessmay

.

methodof pin-

asting theminto

eofthe sleeveand

esleeveevenwiththe

backfromtheedge

ns1 inchapartas

arwidthseamas

ouwillfind thatby

eforebastingthe

be distributed

ace.


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124/208

dresspatterns

e.

epapernearest

B toC .

mAasAto E.

rnonline AtoC

onlineAto Eso

etas R.

B,N, R,D.

, N,R,B.

hofthe cape.

underarm points

center.

cline fromN

hRuntilit inter-

point3.

houlderdart.

dividethis intotwo

s


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125/208

esNto5and4

eonedart asN

ountfromNto4

ortionisthe amount

8.

7.

allelwith line

llelwith line2

ntiliti ntersects

arclinefromH

H2.

untilit intersects

OPS

thetruebias11/2

ghforall theloops.

ndstitchas inFig-

hefoldfora short

hewidthto VVinch,

efoldededgeasA.

samerowofstitch-

terialas muchas

hiswillpreventthe

kingwhentheloop

hedwider,onthe

stitching"asFigure

y strongdouble

e"Positively"from

ethree orfour

tes.Insert thenee-

ughthefulllengthof

WAYFR0M

ethread,thiswill

erpartoftheloop

onlyV2mchata

rtion overtheinside

heseamnexttoyou

thewholeloop

threadsteadilyas

it easy,pulljusta

raduallyoverthe

pywith theresult.

nsertedinthe

forsilks.

,

wrong,

."


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126/208

CK

tternsLarger

theGurney

variousdimensions

oreachsize larger

aller.Thuslythe

heGurneySelf-Grad-

dof gradingisap-

allmakesofpatterns.

hmentsthe"Sloper"

usedinthegrading

smaller.However

ed.

regulardresspat-

toDD,thewaistline

oHmarked.

of1/4inchlarger

strates.However,

adingyou willnote

utedtovariousparts

eedgeofthe paper

thepapertothe

outlineas:B,D,

ingthepattern

ervetheamountthe

variouspartsasthe

zelarger.

he patternon

kandshoulderasB

ze larger.Place

rawtheupperhalf

sizelarger.

cethe patternas

deasD3toM2to

hsizelarger.Place

dot8.

izelarger.Move

wntodot9 andout-

rmscyeas7to 9

stratedby the

vethatit hasin-

ck,atotal of14inch

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gatotal of1/2inch.

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127/208

ONT

setheregular

stlineB1to B,the

eFto Handthe

f1/2inchlarger

sdistributedover

tternasontheback.

eases1/8inchforeach

ecessaryto lower

chsize asMtoM,.

eedgeofthe paper

thepapertothe

epattern atdot2

V,V,M,H,F, E,B.

wyoujustwherethe

zelarger.

inchforeach size

andoutlinethe

oulderas4to5.

zelarger.Place

ot6 andoutlinethe

s 5to7.

size larger.

cepoint2 ofthe

slocatepointB2.

foreachsize at

owered1/8 inch

2toH2 toH3.

pointBofthe pat-

eupperpart ofthe

ouwillnotehas

sizelarger.

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ot8.

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DRESSANDCOATSLEEVE

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129/208

VE

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130/208

stretchandsilk

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132/208

Continued)

HETWO-PIECESLEEVE

d theliningmust

ow forthestretch

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133/208

ewindowthere,

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134/208

rk thelocationof

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(1939)pattern drafting

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