bangkok - lonely planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/bangkok-10-contents.pdf · “all you’ve...
TRANSCRIPT
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
Tony Wheeler, cofounder – lonely planeT
Bangkok
This ediTion WriTTen and researched by
Austin Bush
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
contentscontents
Welcome to Bangkok ..... 4
Bangkok’s Top 10 ........... 6
What’s New ....................13
Need to Know ................14
Top Itineraries ...............16
If You like ........................18
Month by Month ...........20
With Kids ....................... 22
eating ...........................24drinking & nightlife...33
Gay & lesbian ............. 37entertainment ............39shopping ......................43sports & activities ... 48
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Bangkok 189
Survival Guide 219
Bangkok Maps 250
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Bangkok 52
Transport .................... 220
Directory A–Z ..............225
Language .....................232Index ............................243
Bangkok Today ........... 190
History ......................... 192
People & Culture ........ 201
Eating in Thailand ...... 208
The Sex Industry in Thailand ...................... 215
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ...........................54
Historical Centre: Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi ........................56
Old Bangkok: Banglamphu ................. 72
Dusit Palace Park & Around: Thewet & Dusit ..............................84
Chinatown ......................91
Shopping District: Siam Square, Pratunam, Ploenchit & Ratchathewi ..................99
Riverside, Silom & Lumphini ......................114
New Bangkok: Thanon Sukhumvit..... 129
Greater Bangkok ......... 141
day Trips from bangkok ..................... 152
sleeping ..................... 173
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(left) Wat Arun (p63)and the Chao Phraya River
(above) Thai dancers at Sala Rim Nam dance show (p124)
(right) Dish of kuaytiaw (noodle soup)
Chinatownp91
Banglamphup72
Thewet& Dusit
p84
Thanon Sukhumvitp129
Riverside,Silom & Lumphini
p114
Siam Square,Pratunam,
Ploenchit &Ratchathewi
p99
GreaterBangkok
p141
Ko Ratanakosin& Thonburi
p56
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BangkokNeighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Historical Centre: Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi . . . . . . . . . . . 56Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69
drinking & nightlife . . . . . . .70
entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .70
sports & activities . . . . . . . .70
Old Bangkok: Banglamphu . . . . . . . . 72sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
drinking & nightlife . . . . . . . 79
entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .80
shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
sports & activities . . . . . . . .83
Dusit Palace Park & Around: Thewet & Dusit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88
eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89
drinking & nightlife . . . . . . .90
entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .90
Chinatown . . . . . . . . . . 91Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98
entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .98
sports & activities . . . . . . . .98
Shopping District: Siam Square, Pratunam, Ploenchit & Ratchathewi . . . . . . . . 99Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104
drinking & nightlife . . . . . .106
entertainment . . . . . . . . . .108
shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109
sports & activities . . . . . . . 112
Riverside, Silom & Lumphini . . . . . . . . . . 114sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
drinking & nightlife . . . . . . 123
entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 124
shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
sports & activities . . . . . . . 128
New Bangkok: Thanon Sukhumvit . . . . . . . . . 129sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
drinking & nightlife . . . . . . 136
entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 138
shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
sports & activities . . . . . . . 139
Greater Bangkok . . . 141Top sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
drinking & nightlife . . . . . . 148
entertainment . . . . . . . . . .150
shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
sports & activities . . . . . . . 151
Day Trips from Bangkok . . . . . . . . . . . 152Top sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
ko samet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
amphawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
phetchaburi (phetburi) . . . 161
kanchanaburi . . . . . . . . . . . 165
khao yai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 173
52
Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace .....................58
Wat Pho .............................. 61
Wat Arun ............................63
Dusit Palace Park ............. 86
Wat Traimit (Golden Buddha) ..............93
Jim Thompson’s House ............................... 101
Chatuchak Weekend Market .............................. 143
Ayuthaya Historical Park ..................................153
Top SighTSBANGKOK
53
250
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Bangkok Maps
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æ Top Sights (p58) 14 Pa Aew .......................................................C6Grand Palace .............................................C5 15 Rub Aroon..................................................C6Wat Arun ....................................................B6Wat Pho......................................................D5 ûDrinking & Nightlife (p70)Wat Phra Kaew ..........................................C4 16 Amorosa ....................................................C6
æ Sights (p64) ý Entertainment (p70)1 Amulet Market...........................................B3 17 National Theatre ....................................... C22 Lak Meuang............................................... D4 18 Patravadi Theatre ..................................... B33 Museum of Siam....................................... D64 National Museum ......................................C2 Ø Sports & Activities (p70)5 Royal Barges National Museum............... A1 19 International Buddhist6 Sanam Luang.............................................C3 Meditation Center .................................. C37 Saranrom Royal Garden ...........................D5 20 Massage Pavilions.....................................D58 Silpakorn University..................................C4 Meditation Study and Retreat
Silpakorn University Art Centre ....... (see 8) Center ............................................ (see 19)9 Songkran Niyomsane Forensic 21 Segway Tour Thailand..............................B3
Medicine Museum & Parasite Wat Mahathat................................... (see 19)Museum ..................................................A2 22 Wat Pho Thai Traditional Medical
10 Thammasat University..............................C3 and Massage School..............................C6
ú Eating (p69) ÿ Sleeping (p176)11 Coconut Palm ............................................C6 Arun Residence................................ (see 16)12 Khunkung...................................................B4 23 Aurum: The River Place............................C613 Mangkud Cafe............................................B3 24 Chakrabongse Villas .................................C6
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æ Top Sights (p77) 36 Rolling Bar ................................................. F3Golden Mount ........................................... H6 37 Taksura ......................................................D5Wat Saket.................................................. H6Wat Suthat ................................................. E7 ý Entertainment (p80)
38 Ad Here the 13th ....................................... D1æ Sights (p74) 39 Barlamphu.................................................C3
1 Ban Baat.....................................................G7 Brick Bar ...........................................(see 58)2 Democracy Monument .............................E4 40 Gazebo.......................................................C33 Dhevasathan..............................................E6 41 Molly Bar....................................................D34 King Prajadhipok Museum....................... H5 42 Orchid Bar .................................................D35 Mahakan Fort.............................................G5 43 Suksabai ....................................................D36 National Gallery .........................................B37 October 14 Memorial................................ D4 þ Shopping (p80)8 Phra Sumen Fort & 44 Nittaya Curry Shop ................................... C3
Santichaiprakan Park............................. C1 45 RimKhobFah Bookstore ........................... E59 Queen's Gallery .........................................G5 46 Saraban......................................................D3
10 Sao Ching-Cha........................................... E7 47 Shaman Bookshop....................................D311 Th Bamrung Meuang Religious 48 Shaman Bookshop.................................... C3
Shops....................................................... F7 49 Taekee Taekon...........................................C112 Toot Yung................................................... F3 50 Th Khao San Market ................................. C313 Wat Bowonniwet........................................E3 51 Thai Nakon ................................................ F214 Wat Ratchanatda.......................................G5
Ø Sports & Activities (p83)ú Eating (p76) 52 Grasshopper Adventures.........................D4
15 Ann's Sweet ............................................... C1 53 Khao ...........................................................C316 Arawy Vegetarian Food.............................E5 54 Sor Vorapin Gym....................................... B317 Baan Phra Arthit........................................ B1 55 Velo Thailand..............................................E118 Chote Chitr.................................................D719 Hemlock .....................................................B2 ÿ Sleeping (p176)20 Jay Fai........................................................ G6 56 Baan Dinso................................................. E521 Kimleng ..................................................... D4 57 Bhuthorn.................................................... D722 Krua Apsorn...............................................E5 58 Buddy Boutique Hotel ..............................D423 May Kaidee's.............................................. D1 59 Diamond House.........................................D224 Phen Thai Food .........................................C3 60 Feung Nakorn Balcony .............................D725 Poj Spa Kar ................................................D7 61 Fortville Guesthouse..................................C126 Ranee Guesthouse ....................................C3 62 Hotel Dé Moc............................................. F227 Roti-Mataba ............................................... C1 63 Lamphu House.......................................... C228 Shoshana ...................................................C3 64 Lamphu Treehouse................................... F329 Thip Samai ................................................ G6 65 NapPark Hostel .........................................D3
66 Navalai River Resort ..................................B1ûDrinking & Nightlife (p79) 67 New Siam Riverside.................................. A2
30 Café Democ ...............................................E4 68 Niras Bankoc .............................................G631 Club ............................................................C3 69 Old Bangkok Inn........................................G432 Club Culture............................................... F5 70 Pannee Residence .................................... F433 Hippie de Bar .............................................C3 71 Shambara ..................................................D434 Madame Musur..........................................B2 72 Sourire .......................................................G435 Phranakorn Bar ........................................ D4 73 Villa Cha-Cha.............................................D3
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æ Sights (p88) û Drinking & Nightlife (p90)1 Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall...............C3 13 Post Bar .....................................................A42 Ancient Cloth Museum .............................C2 14 River Bar Café ............................................A13 Chitlada Palace..........................................D34 Department of Fine Arts ...........................B3 ý Entertainment (p90)5 Dusit Zoo....................................................D3 15 Ratchadamnoen Stadium ........................B46 National Library.........................................B37 Rama V Memorial ......................................C3 Ø Sports & Activities (p22)8 Royal Thai Elephant Museum...................C2 16 Tha Thewet................................................ A39 Wat Benchamabophit ...............................C3
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æ Top Sights (p101) þ Shopping (p109)Jim Thompson's House ............................A2 29 Central Chidlom ........................................G4
30 Central World Plaza .................................. E3æ Sights (p102) 31 Digital Gateway .........................................C3
1 100 Tonson Gallery .................................. G6 32 DJ Siam......................................................C42 Baan Krua ..................................................A2 Flynow...............................................(see 33)3 Bangkok Art & Culture Centre .................B3 33 Gaysorn Plaza ........................................... E34 Erawan Shrine............................................E4 It's Happened To Be A5 Jamjuree Art Gallery .................................A5 Closet .............................................(see 42)6 Jim Thompson Art Center........................A2 34 Marco Tailors.............................................C47 Lingam Shrine............................................G2 35 MBK Center ...............................................B3
Siam Ocean World........................... (see 42) 36 Narai Phand............................................... E4Whitespace ...................................... (see 26) 37 Pantip Plaza............................................... D1
38 Pinky Tailors ..............................................H4ú Eating (p104) 39 Pratunam Market.......................................E1
8 Coca Suki .................................................. D4 40 Siam Center...............................................C39 Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao .......E4 41 Siam Discovery Center.............................B3
Erawan Tea Room ............................. (see 9) 42 Siam Paragon............................................ C3Food Loft .......................................... (see 29) 43 Siam Square.............................................. C3
10 Food Plus ...................................................C3 Tango ................................................(see 33)11 FoodPark....................................................E3 44 Uthai's Gems .............................................H6
Four Seasons Sunday Brunch........ (see 52)12 Gaggan .......................................................F6 Ø Sports & Activities (p112)13 Gianni Ristorante...................................... G4 45 1930 Spa....................................................G5
Gourmet Paradise ........................... (see 42) AAA Thai Language Center............. (see 51)14 Ka-nom.......................................................C3 46 Absolute Yoga ........................................... F415 Koko............................................................C3 47 American University
MBK Food Court.............................. (see 35) Alumni Language16 New Light Coffee House ...........................B4 Center ..................................................... E617 Sanguan Sri............................................... H4 48 Asian Oasis ................................................G218 Som Tam Nua............................................C4 49 Pilates Studio ............................................H419 Sra Bua.......................................................E2 SF Strike Bowl ..................................(see 35)
Thann Sanctuary.............................. (see 41)ûDrinking & Nightlife (p106) 50 Union Language School............................B2
Ad Makers ........................................ (see 23) 51 Yoga Elements Studio .............................. F320 Co-Co Walk ................................................ B121 Diplomat Bar............................................. H5 ÿ Sleeping (p178)22 Foreign Correspondents' Club Of 52 Four Seasons Hotel................................... E5
Thailand................................................... F4 53 Fraser Place Urbana23 Hyde & Seek ............................................. H4 Langsuan ................................................ F6
RedSky ............................................. (see 30) 54 Hansar........................................................ E5Roof ..................................................(see 60) 55 Hotel Muse................................................. F5
24 To-Sit..........................................................B3 56 Lit................................................................A357 Lub*d ......................................................... A3
ý Entertainment (p108) 58 LUXX XL......................................................F725 Calypso Cabaret........................................ B1 59 Reno Hotel ................................................. A326 Lido.............................................................C3 60 Siam@Siam ............................................... A327 Rock Pub .................................................... B1 61 VIP Guest House/Golden28 Scala ...........................................................B3 House ...................................................... F4
Siam Paragon Cineplex................... (see 42) 62 Wendy House ............................................ A2
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13 Minivans to Ayuthayaú Eating (p106) & Phetchaburi
4 Mallika Restaurant ....................................B2 (Phetburi) ................................................B15 Pathé ..........................................................C2 14 Minivans to Ban Phe6 Tida Esarn ..................................................B2 (for Ko Samet)........................................ B27 Victory Point ..............................................B2 15 Minivans to
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8 Sky Train Jazz Club...................................A2 & Khao Yai9 Wine Pub ....................................................B3 National Park...........................................B1
17 Minivans to Samutý Entertainment (p108) Songkhram &
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æ Top Sights (p120) ý Entertainment (p124)Bangkokian Museum ................................D3 Sala Rim Nam................................... (see 13)
æ Sights (p116) þ Shopping (p126)1 Assumption Cathedral..............................C5 8 Chiang Heng ..............................................C62 Old Customs House ..................................B4 9 Maison Des Arts........................................ C5
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3 Indian Hut.................................................. D4 11 Thai Home Industries ...............................C5Le Normandie ...................................(see 13)Lord Jim's..........................................(see 13) Ø Sports & Activities (p128)
4 Muslim Restaurant....................................C5 Oriental Hotel Thai Cooking5 Naaz............................................................C3 School ............................................ (see 12)
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6 Wan Fah .....................................................B2 ÿ Sleeping (p181)13 Mandarin Oriental ..................................... B4
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nahm.................................................. (see 17) 16 Baan Saladaeng ........................................ B37 Ngwanlee Lung Suan ................................ C1 17 Metropolitan.............................................. B38 Zanotti ........................................................A2 18 Siri Sathorn................................................B3
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æ Top Sights (p132) 29 Thong Lee ..................... C5 Ø Sports & Activities (p139) Siam Society & Ban 30 Villa Market ...................D4 70 ABC Amazing Kamthieng.................. C3 31 Villa Market ....................F4 Bangkok Cyclists ....... E5
32 Villa Market ...................G4 71 Asia Herb Association..G6 æ Sights (p131) 33 Villa Market ................... B2 72 Asia Herb Association..D3 1 Benjakiti Park................ B5 73 Asia Herb Association..D5 2 Chuvit Garden............... B3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p136) 74 Baan Dalah ....................B3 Thailand Creative & 34 Bangkok Bar .................H6 75 Bangkok Bike Rides...... F3 Design Center .. (see 60) 35 Bar 23 ............................ C5 76 Bicycle Hire ...................B5
36 Bed Supperclub............ B2 77 Coran .............................B2 ú Eating (p131) 37 Black Swan.................... C3 78 Divana Massage & 3 Bacco – Osteria da 38 Cheap Charlie's............. B2 Spa..............................C3 Sergio ..........................F5 39 Glow............................... C2 79 Fun-arium...................... E7 4 Bei Otto ......................... C4 40 Happy Monday..............H5 80 Health Land...................C2 5 Bharani .......................... C3 41 HOBS.............................G3 81 Health Land...................H5 6 Bo.lan ............................D6 42 Iron Fairies ....................G4 82 Lavana ...........................B3 7 Boon Tong Kiat 43 Long Table .................... C4 83 Pussapa Thai Singapore 44 Narz ...............................D3 Massage School......... E5 Hainanese 45 Nest ............................... B2 84 Rakuten .........................D3 Chicken Rice ..............G4 46 Nung-Len.......................H4 85 World Fellowship of 8 Cabbages & 47 Q Bar...............................B1 Buddhists ...................D5 Condoms.................... B3 48 Scratch Dog .................. C4 9 Crêpes & Co.................. B3 49 Shades of Retro............H3 ÿ Sleeping (p183) 10 Duc de Praslin............... D4 50 Soi Ekamai 5 .................H4 86 72 Ekamai......................H6 Eugenia Hotel 51 Tuba...............................H3 87 Aloft ...............................B2 Weekend 52 WTF.................................F5 88 AriyasomVilla .................A1 Brunch...............(see 95) 89 Atlanta ...........................A3 11 Face ................................F7 ý Entertainment (p138) 90 Baan Sukhumvit ...........C4 Gourmet Market. (see 60) Demo ....................(see 54) 91 Bangkok Boutique 12 Imoya............................. D5 53 Fat Gut'z ........................G4 Hotel ............................C1 13 Khua Kling + Pak 54 Funky Villa .....................H4 92 Citadines Soi 23............C3 Sod...............................F5 Living Room .......(see 108) 93 Citichic...........................B2 14 Kuppa ............................ C5 55 Mambo Cabaret............D4 94 Dream............................B2 Le Petit Zinc .........(see 62) 56 Nana Entertainment 95 Eugenia..........................D3 15 Marriott Café................. A2 Plaza ........................... A2 96 Federal Hotel................. B2 16 Myeong Ga .................... B3 57 Soi Cowboy ................... C3 97 Fusion Suites ................C3 17 Nasir Al-Masri ............... A2 58 Titanium ........................C4 98 HI-Sukhumvit................ G7 18 New Sri Fah 33.............. D4 99 House by the Pond ....... C5 19 Pizza Romana Pala....... C3 þ Shopping (p138) 100 Ma Du Zi ........................C4 20 Rang Mahal ................... C4 59 Dasa Book Café ............ E5 101 Na Na Chart ..................C4 21 roast ..............................G4 60 Emporium ..................... D5 102 Napa Place .................... F6 22 Ruea Thong...................G3 61 Khlong Toey Market..... B7 103 On8 ................................B3 23 Saras ............................. C4 62 Nandakwang................. C3 104 Ramada Hotel & 24 Scan Deli ....................... C5 Nickermann's.......(see 65) Suites..........................B4 25 Snapper......................... B2 63 Propaganda...................D5 105 S31 .................................D4 26 Soi 38 Night 64 Raja's Fashions............. A2 106 Sacha's Hotel Uno ........C3 Market .........................F6 65 Rajawongse................... A2 107 Seven.............................D4 27 Soul Food 66 Ricky's Fashion 108 Sheraton Grande Mahanakorn...............G6 House ......................... A2 Sukhumvit ..................B3 Sunday Jazzy 67 Sop Moei Arts ................F3 109 Silq ................................. C3 Brunch.............(see 108) 68 ThaiCraft Fair................ C4 110 Stable Lodge .................B3 Tapas Café ...........(see 25) 69 Thanon Sukhumvit 111 Suk 11.............................B2 28 Tenkaichi Yakiton Market ........................ B3 Nagiya..........................E7 ZudRangMa Records.(see 52) 2)
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Austin Bush Coordinating Author Austin Bush came to Thailand in 1998 on a language scholarship to Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employment and spicy food eventually led Austin to Bangkok. City life, employment and spicy food have managed to keep him there since. A native of Oregon and a freelance writer and photographer who often focuses on food, samples of Austin’s work can be seen at www.austinbushphotography.com.
Read more about Austin at:lonelyplanet.com/members/austinbush
Our Writers
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 98310th edition – Sept 2012ISBN 978 1 74220 019 4© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Plane-t does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
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