British Columbia

& the Canadian Rockies

John Lee, Ray Bartlett, Gregor Clark, Craig McLachlan, Brendan Sainsbury

Albertap42

YukonTerritory

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BritishColumbia

p107

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to BC & the Canadian Rockies . . . . . . 4

British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies Map . . . 6

BC & the Canadian Rockies’ Top 17 . . . . . . . . . 8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 18

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Month by Month . . . . . . 22

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

National & Regional Parks . . . . . . 29

Outdoor Activities . . . . . 34

Regions at a Glance . . . 39

ALBERTA . . . . . . . . . . 42Edmonton . . . . . . . . . . . . 45Calgary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55Banff & Jasper National Parks . . . . . . . . 69Kananaskis Country . . . . . 69Canmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73Icefields Parkway . . . . . . . . 76Banff Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Lake Louise . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Jasper Town & Around . . . 91Southern Alberta . . . . . . 98Drumheller . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Dinosaur Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 100Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump . . . . . . . . . . 101Lethbridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 102Waterton Lakes National Park . . . . . . . . . . 103Crowsnest Pass . . . . . . . . 105Northern Alberta . . . . . 105Peace River & Around . . . 106Mackenzie Highway . . . . . 106Lake District . . . . . . . . . . . 106

BRITISH COLUMBIA . . . . . . . . 107Vancouver . . . . . . . . . . . 110Lower Mainland . . . . . . 135Richmond & Steveston . . 135New Westminster . . . . . . . 137Bowen Island . . . . . . . . 138Sea To Sky Highway . . . 138Squamish & Around . . . . 138Whistler . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Sunshine Coast . . . . . . 147Gibsons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Roberts Creek . . . . . . . . . 148Sechelt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149

Powell River . . . . . . . . . . . 150Vancouver Island . . . . . 152Victoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Southern Vancouver Island . . . . . . . 166Cowichan Valley . . . . . . . . 169Nanaimo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170Parksville & Qualicum . . . 173Port Alberni . . . . . . . . . . . 175Pacific Rim National Park Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 176Tofino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Ucluelet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Denman & Hornby Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Comox Valley . . . . . . . . . . 184Campbell River . . . . . . . . . 185Strathcona Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 187North Vancouver Island . . . 187Southern Gulf Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Salt Spring Island . . . . . . 192North & South Pender Islands . . . . . . . . . 194Galiano Island . . . . . . . . . 195Saturna Island . . . . . . . . . 196 Mayne Island . . . . . . . . . . 196Fraser & Thompson Valleys . . . . 197EC Manning Provincial Park . . . . . . . . . 197Fraser River Canyon . . . . 198Lytton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Kamloops . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Sun Peaks . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Okanagan Valley . . . . . . 200Osoyoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Oliver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Vaseux Lake . . . . . . . . . . .205Penticton . . . . . . . . . . . . .205Penticton to Kelowna . . .208Kelowna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208

PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

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Contents

Vernon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212North of Vernon . . . . . . . . 213The Kootenays & The Rockies . . . . . . . . 214Revelstoke . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Revelstoke to Golden . . . 218Golden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218Yoho National Park . . . . .220Kootenay National Park . . . . . . . . . . 221Radium Hot Springs . . . . 222Radium Hot Springs to Fernie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Fernie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Kimberley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Cranbrook . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Cranbrook to Rossland . . .225Rossland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Nelson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226Nelson to Revelstoke . . . . 228Cariboo Chilcotin Coast . . . . . . . 229Williams Lake to Prince George . . . . . . . . . . 229Barkerville & Around . . . . 229Bowron Lake . . . . . . . . . . .230Wells Gray Provincial Park . . . . . . . . .230 Chilcotin & Highway 20 . . . 231Bella Coola Valley . . . . . . 231Northern British Columbia . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Prince Rupert . . . . . . . . . . 233Haida Gwaii . . . . . . . . . . . 234Prince Rupert to Prince George . . . . . . . . . 237Prince George . . . . . . . . . 239Prince George to Alberta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240Stewart-Cassiar Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241Alaska Highway . . . . . . . . 241

YUKON TERRITORY . . . . . . .243Whitehorse . . . . . . . . . . 245Alaska Highway . . . . . . 251British Columbia to Whitehorse . . . . . . . . . . . . 251Whitehorse to Alaska . . . 252Haines Highway . . . . . . 258Klondike Highway . . . . . 258Carcross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Carmacks . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259Stewart Crossing . . . . . . .260Dawson City . . . . . . . . . 260Dempster Highway . . . . 265Arctic Parks . . . . . . . . . 266

BC & the Canadian Rockies Today . . . . . . . . 268

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270

Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276

The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281

Indigenous BC & Beyond . . . . . . . . . . . . 285

West Coast Cuisine . . . 290

Drinking BC & Beyond . . . . . . . . . . . . . .295

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 300

Transportation . . . . . . . 308

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 319

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESNational & Regional Parks . . . . . . . . 29Outdoor Activities . . . . . 34Indigenous BC & Beyond . . . . . . . . . . . . 285West Coast Cuisine . . .290Drinking BC & Beyond . . . . . . . . . . . . 295

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Itineraries

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ALBERTA

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LakeLouise

Jasper

Banff

Edmonton

Athabasca Glacier

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Columbia Icefield

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Epic Rockies Roll

The Rockies are top of the list for most visitors to Canada. You can cover all the jaw-dropping highlights on this grand tour.

Start in gateway city Edmonton, spending a couple of days shopping, perusing muse-ums and puttering around the Old Strathcona neighborhood. Then hit Hwy 16 westward for your first big drive: a half-day weave to Jasper. Check in for three nights, grab a beer at the Jasper Brewing Co and plan your wildlife-watching around the region’s lakes and mountains. Next it’s time to move on southwards via the Icefields Parkway, Canada’s most scenic drive. It’s shadowed by looming crags and studded with inquisitive bighorn sheep that peer at you from the clifftops. Stop en route at the Columbia Icefield and take a hike or truck tour on the Athabasca Glacier. After lunch at the nearby Colum-bia Icefield Discovery Centre, continue southwards to Lake Louise – take photos and wander the shoreline, saving time for a visit to the equally dazzling Moraine Lake a short drive away. Back in the car, you’ll soon be in Banff. Treat yourself to a fancy hotel sleepover and spend the rest of your visit hiking flower-covered alpine trails and marve-ling at the epic World Heritage–listed landscapes.

10 DAYS

25©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

There’s much more to BC than its cities; take your time and head off the beaten path on this trip-of-a-lifetime circle odyssey.

Start your journey of discovery in Vancouver. Catch the BC Ferries vessel from West Vancouver’s Horseshoe Bay for the short ride to Nanaimo, where you can sync into ‘island time’ and start to enjoy Vancouver Island’s laid-back culture – it’s distinctly more independent and small-town than the mainland. After spending the night in Nanaimo, head north on Hwy 19, taking an eastward detour to waterfront Telegraph Cove. Take a whale- or bear-watching tour here and check in for a night in one of Telegraph Cove Resort’s restored cottages (book ahead in summer).

Continue north on Hwy 16 the next morning and check into Port Hardy for the night – if it’s still daylight, consider an oceanfront hike. You’ll have an early start to catch the Discovery Coast Connector Ferry the next morning (summer only), but it’s well worth it for a languid all-day odyssey of coastline gazing with the ever-present promise of spot-ting eagles, whales, seals and more from the sun-dappled deck.

Arriving in tiny Bella Coola, which sits at the end of a long fjord, find yourself a rus-tic retreat for a few nights in the Bella Coola Valley. Spend your days exploring trails alongside huge old cedars and make the hike to pounding Odegaard Falls. Go for a river float and lose count of the grizzlies wandering the shores. When you leave, tackle the Hill, a thrill ride for drivers, and head east through the lonely Chilcotin area. Stop at the alpine waters of the little lakes along the way, or just take any little tributary road and lose civilization – what little there is – altogether. At Williams Lake say yee-ha to cowboy country.

Turn south on the Cariboo Hwy (Hwy 97), otherwise known as the Gold Rush Trail. The road follows the route of the first pioneers and gold seekers who settled in BC’s un-forgiving interior. From Lytton, head out white-water rafting on the Fraser and Thomp-son Rivers. After these chilly waters, warm up with a soak in Harrison Hot Springs. From here it’s an easy drive on Hwy 1 back to Vancouver.

2 WEEKS

P A C I F I CO C E A N

Lytton

TelegraphCove

PortHardy

WilliamsLake

Vancouver

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It’s hard to get lost on this easy escape from Vancouver; the area’s only highway links all the main communities in a linear fashion. Drive on and enjoy a laid-back, island-like ambience.

Head north from Vancouver on Hwy 99 through Stanley Park and make for West Van’s Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal. Take the Sunshine Coast vessel to Lang-dale and roll off onto Hwy 101, the region’s main artery. After a few minutes you’ll be in artist-studded Gibsons, an ideal lunch stop – try Persephone Brewing. Check into a local B&B, then take an early evening kayak tour on the glassy ocean. Rejoining Hwy 101 the next morning, continue on to Sechelt and consider a shoreline forest hike in Por-poise Bay Provincial Park. If you’re lucky you’ll also catch the summertime Farmers & Artisans Market, a great way to meet the locals. Stay in a waterfront B&B here, then hit the road early the next morning. You’ll have a short ferry hop before arriving in Powell River. The area’s top town, it com-bines old-school heritage and a funky young population. Stick around for a day or two of hiking and mountain biking, and be sure to toast your trip at Townsite Brewing.

4 DAYS

Sunshine Coast Hop

The BC capital is the perfect gateway for exploring the charms of Vancouver Island on a winding weave that links several in-viting communities.

Start with two nights in capital city Victoria, giving yourself plenty of time to explore before departing northwards on day three via Hwy 1. Take your time weav-ing through the Malahat Mountain region, but allow time for a long lunch in the idyl-lic waterfront community of Cowichan Bay. It’ll be hard to tear yourself away, but continue north to Chemainus, a former logging town now adorned with dozens of murals. It’s not far to your sleepover in Nanaimo, the island’s second city, where there are some decent restaurants and a popular museum. Next morning you’ll be off to check out the friendly oceanfront communities of Parksville and Qualicum Beach – ideal for fans of beachcombing – before veering inland on Hwy 4 towards the dramatic west coast. Port Alberni is a handy lunch stop, but you’ll likely be eager to thread through the winding mountain roads to Tofino. Spend several nights here soaking up BC’s wild Pacific Ocean coastline.

1 WEEK

VancouverIsland

P A C I F I CO C E A N

PowellRiver

SecheltGibsons

Chemainus

Langdale

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The best way to experience the north is to hop in a car and immerse yourself in some rugged Yukon-flavored wilderness.

Spend two days exploring Prince Rupert – the Museum of Northern BC and North Pacific Cannery are must sees – before rolling onto an Alaska Marine Highway ferry to Haines, AK. It’s a two-day odyssey for which cruise ships charge a comparative arm and leg. Back on dry land, spend a night in Haines, AK. From here you’ll be (almost) on the doorstep of one of the world’s largest protected wil-dernesses. Around 250km away via the BC town of Haines Junction, Kluane National Park & Reserve is a vast World Heritage–listed realm of glaciers and mountains. Weave through the park and cross briefly again into Alaska to access the Top of the World Hwy. Continue on your merry way to Dawson City, Yukon’s coolest old-school town. Stick around for two nights to enjoy the historic ambience, then head south on the Klondike Hwy for 538km to Whitehorse, the territory’s capital. There are enough museums and galleries here to keep you occupied for another Yukon night.

2 WEEKS Yukon Bound

Southern BC lures the lion’s share of visi-tors, but the north will always be calling your name. Dive in with this scenic weave.

From downtown Vancouver, drive through Stanley Park on Hwy 1 then join Hwy 99 northwards to Whistler. Spend the afternoon hiking or biking the summer trails and check into one of the resort’s grand hotels. Next morning continue north via Pemberton; keep your eyes peeled for towering Mt Currie. You’re now in the heart of cowboy country, but it’s probably too late to swap your car for a horse. After a five-hour drive, stop for two nights in a Williams Lake motel. Time your visit for the rodeo and you’ll have a blast, or book a local white-water rafting tour. Next hit Hwy 97 towards Prince George – the heart of northern BC’s logging country is about three hours away but stop off – via Hwy 26 – at Barkerville, an evocative recreation of an old pioneer town. After a Prince George layover, start early on the four-hour Yellowhead Hwy drive to Smith-ers, an artsy little town with cool sleepover options. Your final four-hour drive the next day delivers you eastward to Prince Ru-pert, northern BC’s loveliest town.

6 DAYS

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travelers who used the last edi-tion and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Sarah Burgess, Jenneke Ewals, Roger Farrer, Eric Hoffmann, Marie Fiona Mallon, Dawn Rothwell, Viktoria Urbanek

WRITER THANKSJohn LeeHeartfelt thanks to Maggie for joining me at all those restaurants and for keeping me calm during the brain-throbbing final write-up phase of this project. Thanks also to Max, our crazy-whiskered ginger cat, for sticking by my desk and also reminding me to chase him around the house every once in a while. Cheers also to my brother Michael for visiting from England and checking out some local breweries with me: you really know how to go the extra mile.

Ray Bartlett Thanks first and foremost, to Buck, for the chance to work on this, and to each of the ed-itors who will peek at it afterwards, and to the great team of co-authors. Thanks as well to my family, friends, and to the incredible collage of folks I met along the way: Kristina, Vera, Rubí, Miro, Allan & Dan, Cat and Greg, Louise and

Melva, Alice H, Molly and Spencer (congrats!), Morgan, William Flenders, Josh W, Char, the Lindsays, Riya and many more.

Gregor Clark Heartfelt thanks to all of the kind Albertans and fellow travelers who shared their love and knowledge of Banff and Jasper – especially Karina Birch, Kate Williams, Ken Wood, Paul Krywicki, Erin Wilkinson, Ed and Vanessa, Shauna and Lindsay. Thanks also to the family and friends who helped me explore Banff and Jasper’s trails: Chloe, Sophie, Wes and Ted, that means you! Couldn’t have asked for a more delightful research crew.

Craig McLachlanA hearty thanks to all those who helped out on the road, but most of all, to my exception-ally beautiful wife, Yuriko, who maintained semi-control of my craft beer intake.

Brendan SainsburyMany thanks to all the skilled bus drivers, helpful tourist information staff, generous hotel owners, expert burger flippers, unobtrusive bears and numerous passers-by who helped me, unwittingly or otherwise, during my re-search trip. Special thanks to my wife Liz, my son Kieran and my mother-in-law Ammy for their company (and patience) on the road.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Lake O’Hara, Yoho National Park, Paul Zizka/Cavan Images ©

THIS BOOKThis 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies guide-book was curated by John Lee and researched and written by John, Ray Bartlett, Gregor Clark, Craig McLachlan and Brendan Sainsbury. The 7th edition was written by John Lee, Korina Miller and Ryan Ver Berkmoes, and the 6th edition by John Lee, Brendan Sainsbury and Ryan Ver Berkmoes.

This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Ben BucknerSenior Product Editors Martine Power, Saralinda TurnerRegional Senior Cartogra-pher Corey HutchisonProduct Editors Ross Taylor, Kate KielyBook Designers Hannah Blackie, Gwen Cotter

Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Judith Bamber, Michelle Bennett, Lucy Cowie, Emma Gibbs, Carly Hall, Victoria Harrison, Jennifer Hattam, Kellie Langdon, Lou McGregor, Jodie Martire, Christopher Pitts, Simon Williamson Assisting Book Designer Katherine MarshCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Sasha Drew, Bruce Evans, Andi Jones, Amy Lynch, Lauren O’Connell

315

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 300accommodations 300-1, see

also individual locationsair travel 308, 309-10Alaska Highway 241-2, 251-8Alberta 39, 42-106, 43Alert Bay 188-9, 126amusement parks 60, 171-2animals 276-80, see also

individual speciesaquariums 113-14, 166, 181-2area codes 19, 306Armstrong 213arts 20-1, 281-4, 288, 289Athabasca Glacier 76-7ATMs 304avalanches 219

BBanff Legacy Trail 75Banff National Park 69-98,

70, 29Banff Town 79-87, 80Barkerville 229-30bathrooms 306-7bears 33, 276, 306, 33Beaver Creek 257-8beer 296-7Bella Coola 229Bella Coola Valley 231-3bicycling 35, 310, see also

mountain bikingBanff Legacy Trail 75Banff Town 81-2Calgary 60, 61Canmore 73Icefields Parkway 78Jasper Town 92-3Kelowna 209Kettle Valley

Rail Trail 212

Vancouver 120Victoria 155, 157-8Whitehorse 248

bighorn sheep 278birds 279bird-watching 59, 101,

120, 136Blackfoot Crossing

Historical Park 104blogs 123boat travel 309, 310boat trips

Banff Town 84Gibsons 148Jasper Town 94Lake Louise 89Port Alberni 175Port Hardy 190Telegraph Cove 189Tofino 179Vancouver 121Waterton Lakes 103

bobsledding 60books 282, see

also literatureenvironmental issues 280food 293history 250, 268wildlife 279wine 295

border crossings 308-9Bowen Island 138Bowron Lake 230Boyle Point 183Brentwood Bay 167British Columbia 40, 107-

242, 108-9Broken Groups

Islands Unit 177-8budget 19, 301, 302bugs 33Burgess Shale

Fossil Beds 220Burwash Landing 257bus travel 309, 310-11business hours 305

Ccable cars 87, 91, 139, 141 Calgary 55-69, 56-7

accommodations 61-2activities 60drinking 66entertainment 66-7events 60-1festivals 60-1food 62-6nightlife 66 shopping 67-8sights 58-60tourist information 68tours 60travel to/from 68travel within 61, 68-9

Calgary Stampede 17, 23, 17Cameron Lake 103Campbell River 185-6Canmore 73-6canoeing & kayaking 37-8,

see also kitesurfing, white-water rafting

Banff Town 81Bowen Island 138Broken Groups Islands

Unit 177-8Dawson City 263Denman 183Galiano Island 195Gibsons 148Kananaskis Country 71Mayne Island 196-7Nelson 227North Pender Island 194Port Alberni 175Powell River 151Salt Spring Island 192Sechelt 150Telegraph Cove 189Tofino 179Ucluelet 182Vancouver 120Victoria 158Whitehorse 248

Capilano Suspension Bridge Park 119, 2

car travel 309, 311-12Carcross 258-9Cariboo Chilcotin

Coast 229-32caribou 277Carmacks 259-60Castlegar 225caves 74, 174cell phones 18, 306Chemainus 170Chetwynd 241Chilcotin 231children, travel with 119, 302cinema 284Clearwater 230climate 18, 22-4, 18Columbia Icefield 77Comox Valley 184-5cougars 277Cowichan Bay 170Cowichan Valley 169-70coyote 278, 279Cranbrook 225credit cards 304cross-country skiing 73, 139,

143, 145, 215, see also skiing & snowboarding

Crowsnest Pass 105currency 18customs regulations 302cycling, see bicycling

Ddance 283-4dangers, see safetyDawson City 12, 260-5, 262,

12, 255Dawson Creek 241deer 277Dempster Highway 265-6Denman 183-4Destruction Bay 257Dinosaur Provincial

Park 100

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disabilities, travelers with 300

diving 37, 158dogsledding 73-4, 94drinking 295-8driving, see car travelDrumheller 16, 98-100, 17DVDs 303

Eeconomy 268-9Edmonton 45-55, 46, 49electricity 302elk 277, 278, 11Elk Island 54Emerald Lake 220events 22-4exchange rates 19

FFaro 253ferry travel 309, 310festivals 22-4Field 221Fillongley 183films 268food 20, 290-4, 302-3, 14Ford’s Cove 183Fort Langley 137Fort Nelson 242Fort St James National

Historic Site 239Fraser River Canyon 198Fraser Valley 197-200,

292, 198

GGaliano Island 195-6galleries, see museums &

galleriesgardens, see parks &

gardensGibsons 147-8Gitanyow 241Golden 218-20Grande Prairie 106Great Bear Rainforest 232Grimshaw 106

HHaida Gwaii 14, 234-7,

14, 287Haines Highway 258

Haines Junction 252-3Head-Smashed-in Buffalo

Jump 101health 303Helliwell 183Herschel Island-Qikiqtaruk

Territorial Park 266High Level 106Highway 20 231hiking 34-5

Ahousat 178Banff Town 82Beehives 87, 89Cape Scott Provincial

Park 191Cory Pass Loop 82Crypt Lake Trail 103EC Manning Provincial

Park 197Garibaldi Provincial

Park 139Grouse Grind 115Jasper Town 93, 94Johnston Canyon & the

Inkpots 82Juan de Fuca Marine

Trail 168Kettle Valley Rail

Trail 212King Creek Ridge 70Kinney Lake & Berg Lake

Trails 240-1Kluane National

Park 256-7Kokanee Glacier

Provincial Park 226Kootenay National

Park’ 222Lake Agnes 87, 89Long Beach Unit 176-7Maligne Canyon 93Meares Island 178Mt Assiniboine Trail 82Peter Lougheed

Provincial Park 69-70Plain of Six Glaciers

Trail 89Ptarmigan Cirque 70Sea to Sky Trail 140Singing Pass Trail 144Skoki Valley Trail 89Skyline Trail 93Squamish 140Stawamus Chief Trail 140Stein Valley Nlaka’pamux

Heritage Park 198-9Strathcona Provincial

Park 187Sunshine Coast Trail 150Tofino 179Tonquin Valley Trail 93

Victoria 158West Coast Trail Unit 177Whitehorse 248Wilcox Ridge 77Wild Pacific Trail 182Yoho National Park 220

history 237, 259, 270-5, 285-8

holidays 305Hornby Islands 183-4horseback riding 38, 82, 93Horseshoe Lake 91Hyder 242

Iice skating 60Icefields Parkway 12, 76-9,

12, 64immigration 308Indigenous people 285-9Inside Passage 13, 13insurance 303-4internet access 304internet resources 19itineraries 25-8, 44

JJasper National Park 10,

69-98, 91, 92, 11, 33Jasper Town 91-8, 95Johnson’s Crossing 252

KKamloops 199-200Kananaskis Country 69-72Kaslo 228kayaking, see canoeing &

kayakingKelowna 208-12, 210Kettle Valley Rail Trail 212Kimberley 224-5Kinsol Trestle 164kitesurfing 38, 140Klondike Gold Rush 259Klondike Highway 258-60Kluane National Park 16,

256-9, 16, 32, 254-5Kootenays 214-29, 216-17

LLake District 106Lake Edith 92Lake Louise 9, 87-90, 88, 9Lake O’Hara 220-1, 5language 18, 286legal matters 304Lethbridge 101-2

LGBT+ travelers 304literature 282-3, see

also booksLong Beach Unit 176-7Lost Lagoon 111Lytton 198-9

MMackenzie Highway 106Maligne Lake 91maps 304marijuana 176, 268-9Mayne Island 196-7Mayo 260Meares Island 178measures 303Miette Hot Springs 91, 65mobile phones 18, 306money 18, 19, 304-5moose 278, 11Moraine Lake 87motorcycle travel 309,

311-12mountain biking 35, see

also bicyclingCanmore Nordic

Centre 73Comox Valley 184Fernie 223Kicking Horse Mountain

Resort 218-19Nelson 227Penticton 206Quadra Island 187Rossland 225-6Whistler Mountain Bike

Park 143-4mountaineering 37Mt Edith Cavell 77Mt Geoffrey Regional

Park 183museums & galleries

Alberni Valley Museum 175

Alberta Railway Museum 48

Art Gallery of Alberta 47Art Gallery of Greater

Victoria 157Arts Underground 247Audain Art Museum 141Banff Park Museum 81BC Sports Hall of Fame

& Museum 114-15Beaty Biodiversity

Museum 118-19Bill Reid Gallery of

Northwest Coast Art 113

Contemporary

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

317IN

DEX M

-P Calgary 59

Craigdarroch Castle 154-5

Cranbrook History Centre 225

Crystal Cabin 235Cumberland

Museum 184Dawson City

Museum 262-3Emily Carr House 157Engine 374 Pavilion 114Esker Foundation

Contemporary Art Gallery 58

Fernie Museum 223Gibsons Public Art

Gallery 147Glenbow Museum 58Haida Heritage Centre at

Kay Llnagaay 235HR MacMillan Space

Centre 119Kamloops Art

Gallery 199Kamloops Museum &

Archives 199Kluane Museum 257MacBride Museum of

Yukon History 246-7Maritime Centre 169-70Maritime Heritage

Centre 186Museum at Campbell

River 185-6Museum of

Anthropology 115Museum of Northern

BC 233Museum of

Vancouver 118Nanaimo Museum 170-1National Music

Centre 58New Media Gallery 137New Westminster Mu-

seum & Archives 137Nk’Mip Desert &

Heritage Centre 201Pemberton Museum 146Pender Islands

Museum 194Prince George Railway &

Forestry Museum 239Revelstoke Railway

Museum 215Royal Alberta

Museum 48Royal BC Museum 153-4Royal Tyrrell Museum

of Palaeontology 98, 64-5

Science World 115Silvery Slocan

Museum 228Southern Alberta Art

Gallery 101Squamish Lil’wat

Cultural Centre 141Telus Spark 59Telus World of

Science 47Touchstones Nelson

Museum of Art & History 226

Two Rivers Gallery 239Ukrainian Museum of

Canada 47-8U’mista Cultural

Centre 188Vancouver Art

Gallery 113Vancouver Police Mu-

seum & Archives 114Whistler Museum &

Archives 141-2Whyte Museum of the

Canadian Rockies 79music 284

NNakusp 229Nanaimo 170-3, 171Nanaimo Bara 172national & provincial

parks 29-33Alexandra Bridge

Provincial Park 198Banff National Park 69-

98, 70, 29Bowron Lake Provincial

Park 230Cape Scott Provincial

Park 191EC Manning Provincial

Park 197-8Elk Falls Provincial

Park 186Elk Island National

Park 54Fish Creek Provincial

Park 59-60Garibaldi Provincial

Park 139Glacier National

Park 218Gwaii Haanas National

Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve & Haida Heritage Site 235

Jasper National Park 10, 69-98, 91, 92, 2, 11, 33

Kalamalka Lake Provin-cial Park 213

Kluane National Park 16, 256-7, 16, 32, 254-5

Kokanee Glacier Provin-cial Park 226

Kootenay National Park 221-2

Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park 242

MacMillan Provincial Park 175

Mt Assiniboine Provincial Park 222

Mt Fernie Provincial Park 223

Mt Revelstoke National Park 215

Mt Robson Provincial Park 240

Mt Seymour Provincial Park 120

Muncho Lake Provincial Park 242

Naikoon Provincial Park 235

Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park 171

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve 176-8

Peter Lougheed Provincial Park 69-70

Porpoise Bay Provincial Park 149-50

Sooke Potholes Provincial Park 168

Stawamus Chief Provincial Park 139

Stone Mountain Provincial Park 242

Strathcona Provincial Park 187

tour operators 31Tweedsmuir Provincial

Park 231Waterton Lakes National

Park 103-5Wells Gray Provincial

Park 230-1Writing-on-Stone

Provincial Park 102Yoho National Park

220-1, 31Nelson 226-8New Denver 228-9New Westminster 137-8newspapers 303North Pacific Cannery

National Historic Site 233, 21

North Pender Island 194-5

Oobservatories 92Okanagan Valley 14, 200-

14, 295-6, 204, 15 Old Crow 266Oliver 201-5opening hours 305Osoyoos 201

PPacific Rim National Park

Reserve 176-8painting 281-2parks & gardens

Ancient Forest / Chun T’oh Whudujut Park 240

Bloedel Conservatory 115Butchart Gardens 167Cathedral Grove 175Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical

Chinese Garden & Park 114

Ecological Park 188-9Lakeside Park 226Lynn Canyon Park 119-20Riverside Park 199Stanley Park 10, 111, 11UBC Botanical

Garden 119VanDusen Botanical

Garden 115Victoria Butterfly

Gardens 167-8Parksville 173-5passports 308Peace River 106Peachland 208Pemberton 146Penticton 205-8Peyto Lake 77Peyto, ‘Wild’ Bill 83photoconceptualism 281planning

British Columbia & the Rockies basics 18-19

British Columbia & the Rockies regions 39-40

budgeting 19calendar of events 22-4internet resources 19itineraries 25-8travel seasons 18, 22-4

politics 268-9population 269Port Alberni 175-6Port Hardy 190-1Port McNeill 188Port Renfrew 169

318

IND

EX P-Z

post 305Powell River 150-2Prince George 239-40Prince Rupert 233-4, 21provincial parks, see

national & provincial parks

public art 281public holidays 305Pyramid Lake 91

QQuadra Island 187Qualicum 173-5Quesnel 229

Rradio 303Radium Hot Springs 222-3Revelstoke 214-18Richmond 135-7Robert Campbell

Highway 253Roberts Creek 148-9rock climbing 37, 73-4, 139,

206, 21Rocky Mountains 214-29,

216-17Ross River 253Rossland 225-6

SSaanich Peninsula 166-7safety 219, 305-6Salmo 225salmon 280Salmon Glacier 242Salt Spring Island 192-4,

126Sandy Island 183Saturna Island 196seafood 291-2Sea To Sky Highway 138-

41, 126-7Sechelt 149-50Shuswap 214Sidney 166-7Silver Trail 260Skeena River 238skiing & snowboarding 35-7,

see also cross-country skiing

Apex Mountain Resort 206

Banff Town 83Cypress Mountain 120Fernie Alpine Resort 223Grouse Mountain 120Jasper Town 93-4Kicking Horse Mountain

Resort 218-19Kimberley Alpine

Resort 224-5Marmot Basin 93-4Mt Norquay 83Mt Washington Alpine

Resort 184Nakiska 71Plain of Six Glaciers

Trail 89Red Mountain Ski

Resort 226Revelstoke Mountain

Resort 215Silver Star 214Sun Peaks 200Sunshine Village 83Whistler-Blackcomb

143, 127Whitewater Winter

Resort 226Smithers 238-9smoking 303snowshoeing 143Sooke 167-9Southern Gulf Islands 15,

192-7, 193, 15South Pender Island 194-5South Slocan 228Squamish 138-41SS Klondike National

Historic site 247, 254St Paul 106Stanley Park 10, 111, 11Stein Valley Nlaka’pamux

Heritage Park 198-9Steveston 135-7Stewart 242Stewart Crossing 260Stewart-Cassiar Highway

241storm-watching 179Summerland 208Sunshine Coast 147-52surfing 179

TTelegraph Cove 189-90telephone services 306Terrace 238Teslin 252theater 283-4Thompson Valley 197-200,

198

time 306tipping 304-5Tofino 9, 178-81, 8-9toilets 306-7Tok 265Tombstone Territorial

Park 266Top of the World

Highway 265totem poles 289, 14, 287tourist information 307train travel 309, 312travel to/from British

Columbia & the Rockies 308-9

travel within British Columbia & the Rockies 19, 309-12

Tribune Bay 183Turner Valley 68TV 284Tyee Club 186

UUcluelet 181-3Ukrainian Cultural Heritage

Village 51, 64Ukrainian-Canadians 51Upper Waterton Lake 103

Vvacations 305Vancouver 110-35, 112,

116-17accommodations 121-3activities 120children, travel with 119climate 107drinking 130-1entertainment 131-2events 121festivals 121food 123-30nightlife 130-1shopping 132-3sights 111-20tourist information 133tours 120-1travel to/from 133-4travel within 134-5

Vancouver Biennale 282Vancouver International

Film Festival 23, 24Vancouver Island 152-91,

152-3Vaseux Lake 205 vegans 293vegetarians 293Vernon 212-13

via ferrata 83-4Victoria 152-66, 154, 156visas 307

Wwalking tours 159, 159Waterton 103Watson Lake 251-2weather 18, 22-4weights 303whales 280whale-watching 17, 158,

166, 179, 189,, 17Whistler 10, 141-7, 142,

10, 127Whitehorse 245-51, 246white-water rafting

Banff Town 83, 84Fernie 223Fraser River Canyon 198Glacier National Park 218Haines Junction 253Kananaskis Country 71Lake Louise 89Lytton 199Revelstoke 215Whistler 144

wildlife 276-80wildlife-watching 20, 54,

182, 233, 278Williams Lake 229windsurfing 38wine regions 295-6

Gulf Islands 296North Pender Island 194Okanagan Valley 14, 202-

3, 295-6, 204, 15Prince George 239Vancouver Island 168,

296wolves 276-7women travelers 307work 307

YYoho National Park

220-1, 31Yukon Quest 24, 256, 22Yukon River 13, 13, 254Yukon River Quest 256Yukon Territory 40, 243-66,

244

Zziplining 60, 144, 168-9,

187, 208, zoos 59, 155Map Pages 000

Photo Pages 000

319

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

Airport

Border crossingBART station

Boston T stationBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/Muni station

Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541538th edition – April 2020ISBN 978 1 78701 365 0© Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 202010 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSJohn LeeBritish Columbia Born and raised in the UK, John arrived on Canada’s West Coast in 1993 to study at the University of Victoria. Regular trips home to Britain ensued, along with stints living in Tokyo and Montreal, before he returned to British Colum-bia to become a full-time freelance writer in 1999. You can read some of his stories at www.johnleewriter.com. Ray Bartlett Alberta Ray has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, Tanzania, Guatemala, Indonesia and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top publishers, newspapers and magazines. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or contact him for questions or motivation-al speaking opportunities via www.kaisora.com.

Gregor Clark Alberta Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries on five continents. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.

Craig McLachlanBritish Columbia; Yukon Territory Craig has covered destinations all over the globe for Lonely Planet for two decades. Based in New Zealand for half the year, he then moonlights overseas for the other half, leading tours and writing for Lonely Planet. Check out www.craigmclachlan.com.

Brendan SainsburyBritish Columbia Born and raised in the UK, Brendan didn’t leave Blighty until he was 19. Making up for lost time, he’s since visited 70 countries. Brendan also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival sections.

Contributing AuthorMichael Grosberg researched and wrote the Waterton Lakes National Park section of the Alberta chapter.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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