ENVIRONMENTAL LABELLING

LCA ADEME databaseTechnical Committee: « Textile »

June 15th 2012

Olivier RéthoréADEME

Service Eco-conception & Consommation Durable (SECCD)

With Intertek RDC (Isabelle Descos, Matthieu Gillis)

Agenda

Goal, scope and database contextData aggregationFibersTextile productionUse phaseEnd of life

Goal and scope

3

Goal: to establish short term and long term needs in terms of LCI data to give specifications to Cycleco and PE in order to feed ADEME’s DB

Scope: – Apparel (PCR proposals for shirts, jeans and underwear)– Household textile– Shoes (validated PCR)

Meeting approach

For each type of textile :Analyze the inventory data need from:– The preliminary study conclusions: « Elaboration d’un plan de

développement d’une base publique de données d’ACV comme support à l’affichage »

– PCR for shirts, lingerie, jeans and shoes (even if not all yet validated)

Determine the appropriate granularity– Regarding

Technological representativeness Geographical representativeness Temporal representativeness

– Considering for each differentiation The relative environmental impact The information accessibility for the companies that put products

on the market (specific data) The short term data availability in existing databases (generic

data)

Propose a list of inventories to be integrated into ADEME database

4

5

ADEME database content

Processes

MetadataSources, contacts, external documents

Unit Reference

flow, Unitgroups

Characterization factors*

LCIA Method

Result for each impact category

X

*Common data for all suppliers (to be given by the JRC)

LCI Flows*, flow

property*,Unitgroups

6

Data sources: 3 feeding modes

Mode 1: Purchasing existing or adapted data – From databases suppliers with which the ADEME has a framework contract

– For lot 3: PE, Cycleco

Mode 2: Data co-production– In order to fill missing data in specific sectors– Projects co-funded by ADEME with research and technical partners

– Ongoing: AgriBalyse for agriculture products, ACYVIA for food industry, GIE-Solinnen for pulp & paper

Mode 3: Third party– In order to allow integrating data not yet available in existing databases

– In order to promote assessment by the industry

Impact categories

GT where textile is a need– GT4: Beauty, hygiene and health products– GT5: Apparel, household textile, and shoes– GT7: Furniture– GT10S: Sport equipment (e.g. camping material)

Impact categories

Categories for PCRs specific to textile– Common categories

Climate change (IPCC 2007) Eutrophication (Recipe 2008) Water consumption (direct flow)

– Other categories mentioned in current textile PCRs Resource depletion (EDIP 97 (2004)) (shirt, underwear,

shoes) Non renewable energy resources (in MJ) (shirt) Photochemical ozone formation (underwear) Water toxicity (underwear)

Categories for other PCRs: shoes, furniture Climate change (furniture, shoes) Resource depletion (furniture, shoes) Acidification – Recipe 2008 (furniture) Photochemical ozone formation – Recipe 2008 (furniture) Eutrophication (shoes)

Data aggregation

Different typologies exist in PCR

Data need will be defined for those two typologies along the presentation

PCRs ExamplesParameterization of

LCI datasets?

Specific to textile sector

Jean, Shirt, Underwear…

Yes

Not specific to textile sector

Shoes, Furniture, hygiene, beauty…

No

Data aggregation

At least two levels of aggregation are required– Fully aggregated for data not specific to textile sector (e.g. an inventory “cotton textile”)

Most of the parameters will be averages or most representative

A very limited number of parameters could be specific (e.g. production country)

– Not aggregated at all data specific to textile sector Decomposition of textile production in elementary processes – e.g. production of fibers, electricity consumption

These elementary processes have to be defined in PCRs as well as the parameters related to them (country, amount of electricity)

Data aggregation

Electricity consumption

Water consumption

Chemicals

kWh

m3

Textile production

Spinning

Fiber production

…

kg

Fabric manufacturing

Finishing

Confection

Material wastage

Water discharge and treatments

%

DCO, etc.

Fibers – Data need

PCR for jean, shirt and underwear– Primary data: type and mass of fibers– Semi-specific data: country of production of fibers

Fibers – Technological representativeness

Market data for textile fibers in Europe– Table representative for France?– Available market data to differentiate organic and conventional cultures?

Fibers – Technological representativeness

Cultivation/breeding– Must there be some technological differentiation in a same fiber LCI ? Such as:

Organic cultures vs. conventional (cotton, wool…)

→ see discussion in next slide Production yield For viscose, different types of origin (e.g. bamboo)

For synthetic fibers, the representativeness of polymers production will refer to conclusions of technical committee for plastics

Fibers – Geographical representativeness

What are the differences from a region to another?– Pesticides and fertilizers types, quantity and origin– Electricity mix– Water consumption

For each fiber, what geographical level to use? → national, continental or global?

If national, what countries produce fibers ultimately sold in France? (e.g. USA and China for cotton) – Are there statistics of fibers origin in textiles sold in France?

FAO gives world statistics production for natural fibers, for 2010

http://faostat.fao.org/

For synthetic fibers, the representativeness of polymers production will refer to conclusions of technical committee for plastics

Fibers – organic cultures

Since Usetox and biodiversity are not yet validated indicators, organic culture may have a bigger impact on selected indicators than conventional culture because of lower yields– Comparison not yet feasible

Ongoing & planned projects– Production of USEtox CFs for phytosanitary

products: to be launched in 2013– The Ministry of Ecology is developing its own

indicator to assess biodiversity for agriculture productions

Fibers – Databases

Différenciation technologique

Représentativité technologique

Représentativité géographique

Disponibilité dans les bases

Type de fibre

Coton conventionnel (+)

USA, China, ?BV-TEX, GaBi (USA), Ecoinvent (Chine, USA)

Coton biologique (?)

? BV-TEX

Coton OGM (?) ? /

Polyester (+) ? BV-TEX, GaBi (DE)

Polyamide (+) ? BV-TEX, GaBi (DE), Ecoinvent

Acrylique (+) ? BV-TEX

Laine (+) ? BV-TEX, GaBi (?), Ecoinvent

Viscose (+) ? BV-TEX, GaBi (DE), Ecoinvent

Autres (-) ?

BV-TEX : lin, chanvre, jute et lyocell

GaBi (?) : lin, chanvre et polypropylène

Ecoinvent : jute, chanvre

Matière première recyclée

? ? BV-TEX : polyester

Fibers – Co-products allocation rules

Fibers co-products are– Seed and fiber for cotton, linen…– Sulfuric acid and sodium sulfate for viscose – Meat, milk and wool from sheeps– Fruits, wood, leaves for the production of silk

Are there propositions/recommendations from the technical committee?

Accessories – Data need

PCRs requirements– Primary data

Type and mass of each material Manufacturing site (country) for jean PCR

– Semi-specific data Manufacturing site (country) for underwear and shirt PCRs

– Secondary data (→ included in inventory) Power consumption for jean Water consumption for jean Loss rate for jean

Accessories – Technological representativeness

Raw material : transversal material (see ad hoc committee)Are there specific needs for accessories in terms of – Material?– Forming process?

Spinning – Data need

Last GT5 discussion for PCRs specific to textile

For other PCRs: all data are a priori secondary

Spinning/mill (natural fibers)

Country (energetic mix) Semi-specific

Electricity consumptionSecondary or Semi-specific

Wastage rate Secondary

Spinning (synthetic and artificial fibers)

Included in fibers production

Secondary

Spinning – data need

The PCRs and last GT discussions consider this step as a sum of elementary processes

Are there missing processes?Spinning may include in addition (source: preliminary study)– Gluing, Lubricant (mineral or vegetal), Surfactant non ionic, Ethylene glycoln Acid polyacrylic, PVA, Starch– Are those elements neglected on purpose? Or should they be included?– Should there be an average composition or a most representative input depending on the fiber/the type of spinning?

Parameter LCIs associated Source

Energy consumption (kWh / MJ)

Profiles for electricity mixes and heat production

See ad hoc committee

Material wastage (%)

- Overproduction of textile

- End of life of textile

- This committee (PE / Cycleco)

- See ad hoc committee

Water consumption (m³)

Direct flow /

Spinning – Technological representativeness

What is the geographic representativeness ?

Fabric manufacturing and confection – Data need

Last GT5 discussion for PCRs specific to textile

For other PCRs: all data are a priori secondary

Knitting

Country (energetic mix) Semi-specific

Electricity consumptionSecondary or Semi-specific

Wastage rateSecondary or Semi-specific

Weaving

Country (energetic mix) Semi-specific

Electricity consumption Semi-specific

Wastage rate Secondary

Confection

Country (energetic mix) Primary

Electricity consumption Semi-specific

Wastage rate Semi-specific

Fabric manufacturing and confection – Data need

The PCRs and last GT discussions consider those steps as a sum of elementary processes

Are there missing processes?Weaving may include lubricantNon weaving may include polymers– Are those elements neglected on purpose? Or should they be included?– Should there be an average composition or a most representative input depending on the fiber/the type of spinning?

Parameter LCIs associated Source

Energy consumption (kWh / MJ)

Profiles for electricity mixes and heat production

See ad hoc committee

Material wastage (%)

- Overproduction of textile

- End of life of textile

- This committee (PE / Cycleco)

- See ad hoc committee

Water consumption (m³)

Direct flow /

Fabric manufacturing and confection – Technological representativeness

What is the geographic representativeness ?

Finishing – Data need

Last GT5 discussion for PCRs specific to textile

For other PCRs: all data are a priori secondary

Finishing Reflection ongoing

Finishing – Data definition

Finishing processes may take place after every step of textile production (fiber, yarn, and fabric)The way to address finishing is not fixed yet in PCRsFinishing can be considered in different ways– Sum of elementary processes (e.g. electricity consumption, chemicals…)– Average inventories per type of finishing (e.g. one inventory “printing”)– And intermediate situations

Finishing – Data definition

Electricity consumption

Water consumption

Chemicals

kWh

m3

Finishing

Dyeing

Printing

…

kg

Bleaching

Drying

Coating

Material wastage

Water discharge and treatments

%

DCO, etc.

Textile production – Finishing

Finishing

Electricity consumption

Water consumption

Chemicals

X kWh

X liters

Finishing

Dyeing

Printing

…

1

1

Sum of elementary processes

Sum of average inventories

FinishingElectricity consumption

Water consumption

Chemicals

X kWh

X litersIntermediate situation

Printing without electricity, water, chemicals

X kg

1

X kg

Dyeing without electricity, water, chemicals

1

…

…

Textile production – Technological representativeness

Textile production – Technological representativeness

Textile production – Geographic representativeness

What is the geographic representativeness ?

Textile production – Finishing – Chemicals

What granularity for chemicals regarding the production phase and the discharge in water?– Global (one inventory “chemicals for textile finishing”)– By family (e.g. inventory for “dyeing agents”)– By chemical (e.g. “chromium complex azoic dyestuff”)

Geographical representativeness: global (proposal)

Textile production – Finishing – Wastewater treatment

→ To be discussed by a specific Technical Committee on WWTP (end of year 2012)In short termThe database does not allow to have a dynamic model

for WWTP depending on wastewater composition → A finite quantity of inventories is requiredProposal

– Functional unit: 1 m³ of water treated and related to the data “water consumption”– Several level of water treatment depending on

The typology of input water (e.g. water from finishing, water from dyeing…)

The quality of the treatment plant (e.g. no WWTP, average quality, BAT quality…)

– How many levels to choose and how to characterize them?

Textile production – Databases

Aggregated data for non specific sectors

ProposalTwo types of inventories– Cradle-to-gate for fabric production (without finishing processes)

Example: “cotton, weaved, Italy” If there is a mix of fibers in a fabric (e.g. 80% cotton, 20% acrylic), is it a good approach to sum the two basic processes (0.8 * “cotton, weaved, Italy” + 0.2 * “acrylic, weaved, Italy”)

– Gate-to-gate for finishing because it can take place or not at any step

Example: “dyeing”

Aggregated data for non specific sectors

ProposalStepsDifferentiated parameters

Averaged parameters

Technological representativeness

Geographical representativeness

Fibers production

Type of fiberAll other parameters

Should the production country be connected with fabric production country?

Spinning /All parameters

Must the yarn production depend on the fiber?

As above

Fabric production

Type of manufacturing:-Weaving-Knitting-Non weaving

Country

All other parameters

Must the fabric production depend on the fiber?

Finishing

Type of finishing:-Fibers preparation-Dyeing-Fabric printing-Fabric coating-Fabric dressing (apprêtage)

All other parameters

Must dyeing be differentiated for each step (fiber, yarn, fabric)?Must each process be differentiated for each type of fiber?

As above

Use phase – Data need

PCR for jean– Primary data

Label of utilization advices

– Semi-specific data Heat of temperature Drying in machine Ironing

– Secondary data Energy consumption and water consumption for above steps

Type and quantity washing products

Use phase – Data need

Must the production and end-of-life of the machine be included in the scope?Database will include one generic inventory for washing products– Market share (AFISE, 2010)

Powder: 20 % Liquid: 52 % Concentrated liquid: 4 % Other: 24 %

– Product composition: on Cleanright website (http://uk.cleanright.eu/)

Textile end of life – scenario

PCR for lingerie and shoes: household waste (i.e. incineration and landfill – cf. ad hoc committee)PCR for jean: most recent data from EcoTLC– Taux de collecte sélective : 18%

Taux de réemploi après collecte : 58% Taux de recyclage après collecte : 22% Taux d’élimination après collecte : 20%

– Taux d’élimination : 82% Taux d’incinération avec valorisation énergétique : 43,6% Taux d’incinération sans valorisation énergétique : 2.3% Taux d’enfouissement : 54,2%

Lingerie and jean not coherent

Textile end of life – scenario

Incineration and landfill – see ad hoc committeeReuse– Extension of lifetimeIs reuse taken into account in the proposals made for life time?– Recycling approach (credits for avoiding virgin material)

Recycling (see next slide)

Textile end of life – recycling allocation

What allocation rule for textile recycling?– It should be determined in an economic studyPCR for jean is not specific

– 0-100 by default– 100-0 if the industrial has a traceability system to justify he

uses recycled textiles– This rule leads to double counting

What differentiations for textile recycling processes?– Type of fiber– Outlet– Country– …

What are the avoided material application? (e.g. fiber, yarn, textile, rag…)