fabric and garment finishing

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Page 1: Fabric and Garment Finishing
Page 2: Fabric and Garment Finishing

wearability, hand, mechanical resistance, easy care,wettability, washability, deformability, anti bacterial, anti fungal, soil-proof and fire-proof ability

The above mentioned results are achieved by applying respective functional finish

As far as Aesthetic looks of the fabric/garment is concerned the Aesthetic finishes deal with them.

Page 3: Fabric and Garment Finishing

A series of processing operations applied to gray fabrics to enhance their appearance and hand, properties and possible applications.

Play a fundamental role for the commercial excellence of the results of textiles

Page 4: Fabric and Garment Finishing

› Develop the "product finishing" in all its fundamental elements such as

hand and appearance;› Give the finished fabric some properties

that grant an optimum behaviour during the making up and all through the life of the textile.

Page 5: Fabric and Garment Finishing

The dry finishing process is mechanical and 100% chemical free

Combing the pile very carefully and thoroughly during the weaving process after each row of knots is tied so that the pile fibres are disentangled and lie parallel to each other, imparting a rare clarity to the design.

The finishing is thus very much a part of the weaving process itself.

Page 6: Fabric and Garment Finishing

The advantage of this method :› The method is green. It is labour friendly.

The workers are not exposed to dangerouschemicals like caustic soda, acids, bleaches etc to which they most definitely are in thechemical washing process

The disadvantage:› The process being lengthy and time

consuming is very expensive.

Page 7: Fabric and Garment Finishing

A process of decorating fabric includes the step of imparting wrinkles to the fabric oblique to the warp and weft directions and heat setting the wrinkles into the fabric.

The wrinkle imparting step

may include moving the fabric longitudinally and simultaneously moving portions of the fabric from side to side by frictionally engaging the fabric to an oscillating means such as an elastomeric pad or interleaved fingers and oscillating the pad or fingers from side to side.

Page 8: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Heat setting of the fabric includes exposing the wrinkled fabric to heat at a sufficient temperature and for a sufficient duration to set the wrinkles in the fabric.

Desirably, the wrinkled

fabric is in contact with a transfer print paper while the fabric passes through the heat setting step to set the wrinkles and fix color on the fabric.

The longitudinal movement is desirably coordinated with the side to side movement to obtain aesthetically pleasing results. The invention also includes apparatus and the product.

Page 9: Fabric and Garment Finishing

A fibrous web is parchmentized by drawing the web from a parchmentizing bath and passing it through successive washing positions and the feature of the invention resides in maintaining at a substantially constant level the temperature of the washing liquid at the first washing position.

Page 10: Fabric and Garment Finishing

If cellulose is treated with a mixture of two parts of sulphuric acid and one part of water perfectly cold, it becomes like parchment. It should at once be washed with water, and then with ammonia and water. The Swan incandescent light fibres are made of parchmentized cotton thread, which is afterward carbonized. 

Page 11: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Fabric softener is a product used while laundering to make clothes soft and eliminate static cling. Depending on the brand of fabric softener one purchases, it can be added at the beginning of the laundry cycle at the same time detergent is dispensed or during the rinse cycle. Fabric softener can also come in sheets to be placed in the dryer.

Page 12: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Mercerized cotton is cloth produced by the action of a strong alkali on cotton fiber rinsed under tension

The cost of producing a high grade of mercerized cotton, it has been stated, is about three times that of unmercerized cotton

 The gloss of properly mercerized material will not disappear on hard wear or laundering.

Page 13: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Chintz is a closely woven plain weave cotton fabric with a shiny and lustrous finish. It usually has bright figures of large flower, birds, and other such designs.

The fabric is processed with glazed finish to give it a polish look.

Page 14: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Resin finish chintz is a durable glaze. It withstands washing or dry cleaning.

The wax and starch glaze washes out. It is produced by friction or glazing calendars.

Uses of Chintz Fabric› Curtains› Draperies› Slipcovers› Dresses› Sportswear

Page 15: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Water –and oil-repellent finishing agent for all fire types with increased oil repellent properties.

› Specially Durable to washing. Also resistant to dry-cleaning.

› Easy handling and storage.

› Improved finish durability, can provide repellency to 30 home laundry washes

› Solvent Free and Low foaming

› High resistance to yellowing, suitable for colored and white goods.

› Excellent spray rating performance

Page 16: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Typical application fields are:

› Carpet finishing.› Clothing (e.g. sportswear & rain

coat.).› Umbrella cloth.› Table linen, curtains and upholstery

fabric.› Tarpaulins and tents.› Technical fabrics (e.g. protective

clothing).

Page 17: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Waterproofed fabric has the pores of the fabrics covered with a continuous surface

the coating being done on the surface, air permeability is non-existent, with no bonding

between the fibres and the coated product

Page 18: Fabric and Garment Finishing

intended for use in the fabric of rain- and water-resistant clothing

The type of hydrophobic treatment chosen affects the quality of the garment and its durability during washing or chemical cleaning

Finish is applied by filling the fabric pores with a film-forming compound or by the applying to individual fibres or fabrics of compounds which repel water and have a high surface tension

Page 19: Fabric and Garment Finishing

During spinning, weaving, bleaching, dyeing and the various finishing processes, yarns and cloth are under a continuous tension

The process is Controlled Compressive Shrinkage, also knows it as SANFORIZED.

The process is a purely mechanical treatment without any addition of chemicals.

Page 20: Fabric and Garment Finishing

The purpose of the process is to shrink fabrics in such a way that textiles made up of these fabrics do not shrink during washing. 

The amount of potential wash shrinkage must be determined prior to shrinking.

A full width sample is wash-tested according to the test method.

After the lengthwise and widthwise shrinkage has been determined, the compressive shrinkage machine can be adjusted accordingly.

Page 21: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Embossing means to create a raised or lowered image on the surface

The embossing machine is made up of a heated and embossed roller made of steel, which is pressed against another roller coated with paper or cotton, its circumference being exactly a whole multiple of the metal roller.

The garment will have to be dry-cleaned.

Washing and drying the garment will raise the pile and destroy the embossed image.

Page 22: Fabric and Garment Finishing

The fabric passing through the rollers of the calender is subjected to a very uniform pressure all along its width; if the rollers rotate at a different speed, a vigorous friction effect is generated.

Steel rollers may be equipped in such a way to be heated from the inside by means of steam, circulating fluids or electrical power.

The wavy engraving on the rollers give the effect as shown.

Page 23: Fabric and Garment Finishing

The fabric passing through the rollers of the calender is subjected to a very uniform pressure all along its width; if the rollers rotate at a different speed, a vigorous friction effect is generated.

Steel rollers may be equipped in such a way to be heated from the inside by means of steam, circulating fluids or electrical power.

The rollers coated with paper/wool, containing 45-50% of wool, feature good elasticity and excellent resistance to wear and are suitable for a wide variety of applications; they can also be used in embossing calendering units.

Rollers made of paper/cotton, are used almost in friction calenders and for treating hard fibres

Cotton rollers, featuring higher elasticity than the paper ones, are mainly used for cotton and blends finishing and for a final full hand effect.

Page 24: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength.

Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production.

DENIM WASHES ARE OF TWO TYPES: Mechanical washes

›  Stone wash› Microsanding

Chemical washes›  Denim bleaching› Enzyme wash› Acid wash

Page 25: Fabric and Garment Finishing

In the process of stone washing, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand and desirable look.

Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and porosity make these stones multifunctional. The process is quite expensive and requires high capital investment.

Pumice stones give the additional effect of a faded or worn look as it abrades the surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn.

Page 26: Fabric and Garment Finishing

  Process cycle:

Page 27: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular, powdered or other form through a nozzle at very high speed and pressure onto specific areas of the garment surface to be treated to give the desired distressed/ abraded/used look.

 It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals.

 It is a water free process therefore no drying required.

Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible.

Any number of designs could be created by special techniques.

Page 28: Fabric and Garment Finishing

WHISKERING

Also known as Cat's Whiskers

Crease lines around the crotch.

Industrially done with laser, sandblasting, machine sanding, hand sanding and abrasive rods.

Also used for 'knee whiskers' (whiskers on the sides of knees) and 'honeycombs' (crease marks on the back of the knee)

Page 29: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Leather fabric carries natural textures.

Some has scars where as others show a grainy surface.

Few of them have velvety appearance and some marbled or creased look.

Many of them are given textures artificially, such as embossed leather.

Page 30: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Different types of leather fabric textures are described below :

Aniline Leather - It is the most natural and beautiful form of leather. It shows the healed scars and varying natural textures. 

Nubuck Leather - It is actually aniline leather but with a brushed and polished look. It has a velvet like texture with lush appearance.

Suede Leather - It is the finish applied to leather by buffing the underside of the hide heavily and creating velvet like nap.

Corrected Leather - It has a grain layer, which is buffed or sanded to minimise imperfections. Sometimes an artificial grain is also applied to give an uniform look. It is fuzzy on one side and smooth on the other.

Crust Leather - It is a semi-finished leather. The leather is tanned with vegetable, chrome or the combination of both. It is tanned to make it nonperishable.

Page 31: Fabric and Garment Finishing

PU Coated Leather - It is made from the inner splits of the hide and is finished with a polyurethane coating. The coating is also sometimes embossed with a design to give the leather the widest variety of textures.

Distressed Leather - It is an aniline dyed leather showing the signs of wear and natural aging that have been artificially created. 

Embossed Leather - Similar to corrected leather. It is stamped under high pressure in a press to make unique designs. It is sometimes also made to imitate full grain characteristics.

Sauvage Leather - It is a top grain, semi-aniline leather with two-tone effect adding depth and character, producing a marbled or creased appearance.

Split Leather - It is the lower or the inner (flesh) side of a hide, which is split away from the upper, or the grain layer. It is buffed to make the surface smooth. A coating of urethane is applied to make it more tough and uniform.

Page 32: Fabric and Garment Finishing

Double fabric: the front is viscose, the back is polyester chiffon

After burnt-out printing, it has modern pattern in two colors

Usually used for evening dresses, bridal gowns and scarvesBurnt-Out Printed Viscose/Polyester Fabr

Page 33: Fabric and Garment Finishing