dco ldc14&15 garment and item finishing · ldc14 & 15 garment and item finishing using...

Drycleaning Technology CentreUnit 10a Drill Hall Business Centre, East Parade,

Ilkley, West Yorkshire, LS29 8EZ, United KingdomTel: +44(0) 1943 816545, Fax: +44(0) 1943 609326, Email: [email protected]

DRYCLEANING TECHNOLOGY CENTREILKLEY, WEST YORKSHIRE

©2009 LTC&DTC Limited

UNIT LDC 14 & 15

GARMENT AND ITEM FINISHING USING THE IRONINGTABLE AFTER DRY CLEANING

AND

GARMENT AND ITEM FINISHING USING A FREE STEAMPRESS

DRYCLEANING OPERATORWORK BOOK

ENTER DRYCLEANER NAME HERE

ISSUED TO:

ENTER EMPLOYEE NAME HERE

DATE: ENTER DATE ISSUED HERE

DRYCLEANING OPERATOR WORKBOOKUNIT LDC14 &15 – Garment and item finish using ‘a free

steam press’ and ‘the ironing table’ after drycleaning

NVQ2 – Drycleaning Operator © 2009 LTC&DTC Limited of 38




INDEX

TABLE OF CONTENTS

LDC14 & 15 GARMENT AND ITEM FINISHING USING ‘AN IRONINGTABLE’ AND ‘USING A FREE STEAM PRESS’

Section Contents/Subject Page

1 Health and Safety 4

2 General Principles 9

3 Garment Construction 13

4 The Free-steam Press 17

5 Essential Operator Checks for the Free-steam Press 20

6 Professional Ironing Table 21

7 The Open Steam-air Former 24

8 Enclosed Steam-air Former/ Rotary Cabinet Former 26

9 The Hot Head Press 27

10 Efficient Operation & Inspection 29

Self-check questions 30

Appendix

1 Unit Standard for Garment and Item Finishing 33




UNIT LDC 14 &15

GARMENT AND ITEM FINISHING USING IRONING TABLE AFTER DRYCLEAINGand

GARMENT AND ITEM FINISHING USING A FREE STEAM PRESS

1. HEALTH AND SAFETY

Because of the variety of machines in the press department and the high degree ofindividual handling, the risk of operator injury is quite high.

The press department operative is using machines that operate at a steam pressure of 4bar, which means that the steam temperature will be at approximately 152ºC and smallburns and scalds are the most common injury.

There are risks of trapping hands between the press head and buck, resulting in seriousand painful injuries on automatically operated units - but guard rails should be in place onthese to prevent operator access and there should also be two well spaced buttons (sothey cannot be operated with one hand) that need to be held down before the press headcloses.

If any item becomes jammed or stuck, you must be aware of the risks when you attemptto free the item and should always remember that personal safety must come first. If thefault cannot be rectified safely, then assistance should be sought from a supervisor orengineer.

Twin button controls on air-operated scissor presses must operate correctly; they are thefront line defence against serious injury. The emergency release buttons on all machinesshould also be checked regularly for efficient operation.

Extra care should also be taken to ensure that no-one else is close to the press –whether manually or automatically operated – to reduce the risk of slips and falls wherethe hands or arm could also be trapped or burnt.

Garment pressers will also often need to use ‘steam puffers’ to reach into awkwardplaces on garments such as the shoulder of a jacket. Steam ‘puffers’ will be very hot,often more than 150ºC and are normally foot operated, to leave the operator with bothhands free to manipulate the garment over the puffer to eliminate creases. Extra careshould always be taken when using these items to prevent the risk of burns and scalds.

The three mechanisms used to reduce the risk of burns and scalds in pressing areinsulation, protective hand-wear and thorough training.

Electricity is used to power some equipment, usually at 240 volts but occasionally at 415volts. This should always be double insulated and access to electrical components(which could cause a fatal electric shock) is protected by guards secured by screws orbolts and a warning label (the electrical hazard sign). Electrical equipment must bechecked annually for signs of poor insulation (‘earth leakage’) by a qualified electrician, tocomply with the Electricity at Work Regulations. Operatives are not permitted to accessany guard which carries the electrical sign or which requires a tool (eg spanner orscrewdriver) to unfasten it. Signs of breakdown in electrical equipment (such as loose ormissing grommets, frayed insulation, bare wires, sparks, smoke, flames or a tingling




sensation when in use) must be reported immediately to the management by theoperator.

Compressed air is used to power automatic presses and cabinet formers and hot airunder pressure is also blown through garments on open formers and in cabinet formers,from the inside of the formed shape. Compressed air and hot air under pressure are bothdangerous and air leaks must be reported for rectification before they can lead towhiplash injuries from flexible piping, eye injury or burns.

The hot sole plate of a professional iron can sometimes reach temperatures of 200ºC(for steam-electric varieties) and around 110-120ºC (free-steam only types). The risk ofburning is made greater by the free-steam which issues through the perforations in thesole plate at the touch of the trigger. It is not possible to insulate the sole plate of the ironor to protect the operative from free steam, so risk minimisation relies on thorough trainingand awareness.

Hygiene and cleanliness is also vital in the pressing area.

Many garments will be stored for the presser on wire hangers on rails. After pressing theitems, the presser will return the item onto the hanger which is placed on the rail readyfor inspection and despatch.If hangers are dropped and left on the floor they become a major hazard and areresponsible for most trips and fall injuries.

Similarly the garment rails are often only 1.7-1.8 metres above ground level, so as toavoid over-stretching to remove and replace hangers on the rail. These rails are rigid andoften made to carry heavy weights and will cause serious cuts to the head if extra care isnot taken when moving around between them.

Shorter employees often have little or no problem in this regard – this tends to only affecttaller people!!

1. Name two risks when pressing?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

2. What should you do if you feel a tingle from a machine?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

3. Small burns are the most common injury to press operatives. What immediate firstaid action would you take to help ease the pain of such an injury?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................




1.1. Safe Start-Up and Shut-Down

Generally the first job of the day will be to turn on the services to the machines. Inthe case of the press area this will include the supply of:-

water electricity steam from the local boiler (or the central steam supply system)

If the services are safe and in working order, setting up your workstation shouldbegin by cleaning and dusting off the press or ironing table(s) and checking thecondition of:-

the press clothing, pads and mitts, brushes

If the press clothing is soiled or damaged arrange to have it replaced or repairedaccording to your company policy.

Once this is done, carry out checks on the supplies of hangers (if you use them forthe finished items), safety pins or aluminium clips (used to attach light-weightgarments to the cladding on the steam-air former) pens, documentation and anyother items you are likely to need during the time you are working at thisworkstation.

Check the ‘steaming’, ‘vacuum’ and ‘air-blowing’ if applicable to ensure they areoperating correctly – and report/record any faults.

During these checks ensure that:-(a) the steam is free of water droplets, especially from any iron attachment(b) it is being evenly distributed around the whole area of the table or buck.

Take care whilst completing this operation to ensure there is nobody nearthe unit that could be scalded or burnt.

(c) You receive no electrical ‘tingles’ from any of the metal parts of theequipment.

(d) There are no steam leaks or puddles of water near the machine, in whichyou could slip or drop a garment and re-soil it.

If there are any faults – follow your company policy and report themimmediately.

Never operate a faulty machine as this may cause you and your colleaguesharm, or damage to the customers’ garments.

Before closing down the workstation, you should check that all the work requiredfor that day has been completed. If it has not, your supervisor should be informedas soon as possible, so that arrangements can be made to complete the work orinstructions left for whoever will follow you onto this workstation.

All paperwork generated by your finishing activities should be completed andprocessed in accordance with your organisation’s required procedures.Once you have confirmed that your equipment is no longer required it should beswitched off.




You are responsible for making your work area safe, tidy and carrying out thenecessary preparations to allow the next shift to begin work, without having tocomplete your unfinished tasks first.

All articles prepared and waiting to be finished should be stored in a way that willnot cause damage or allow any item to become damp and increase the risk ofmildew and odours developing or the items becoming further creased or damaged.

If you use safety pins, elastic bands or any other stock items necessary for thefinishing of garments, stocks of these items at the work area should be checkedand replenished as necessary.

The level of lighting needs to be sufficient, when pressing using either the freesteam scissor press or the ironing table. This is to ensure that you can seeadequately what you are doing and so that you can see any staining that has beenmissed. Natural day light is best for this purpose, but if you have to resort toartificial light then it is best to used “day light” fluorescent tubes or bulbs ratherthan “bright white”. Levels of light should be around 300 lux.

1.2. Ventilation

Good ventilation is essential in your unit, especially if spotting chemicals are usedat the presses or ironing table. Best practice calls for mechanical extraction whichis interlocked to the drycleaning machine start control. You should ensure that thisis kept on during pressing so that any trace odours of solvent released by the heatof pressing are safely evacuated (even if you cannot smell these). If your unit’srisk assessment calls for the window near the press to be open during pressing,you should check that this has been done.

1.3. Shutting down the Work Station

At the end of your shift in the drycleaning unit, you should plan to leave it so thatthe following shift can start up without unnecessary delays.

Steam generators and local steam boilers should be “Blown Down” at the specifiedintervals. Blowing down a small integral boiler at the end of the day ensures thatharmful calcium and magnesium ions that form scale in boilers are not allowed todeposit and damage the boiler.

The floor should be swept, rubbish bins emptied and all debris from the day’sproduction cleared away.Any messages on production requirements, machine faults and so on, should beleft for the next shift, using the organisation’s agreed communication system.If production is to stop for any length of time after your shift, all cleaning machinesand other equipment should be left in a safe condition as laid down in yourcompany’s operational procedure and the machine manual. This may includeswitching all machines off at their control panel and isolating some supplysystems.




The end of a shift is a good time to:-

o Check the chemicals supply situation andreplenish stocks for the following shift.

o Prepare and post notes for the next shift

With the time delay between sorting and packing,requests between departments often overlap shiftpatterns. It is therefore important that messages are left ifpersonnel carrying out the work are about to change and equally important that thenew shift sorter looks for and reacts to any information or message left.

At all times, the machine manufacturer’s operating instructions must befollowed.

You must inform your team or manager/supervisor of any incidents likely tocause an immediate danger to health and record the incident.

4. What is the minimum lighting requirement in the press area?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

5. What is meant by “Blow Down”?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

6. What three things should you also check to ensure that the press room servicesare safe?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................




2. GENERAL PRINCIPLES

All drycleaned items should leave the drycleaning machine both warm and dry, i.e. free ofsolvent or residual smells. If most of the items are immediately placed carefully ongarment hangers many of the creases put into the items during wear and during thedrycleaning process will be pulled-out by the natural weight of the item on the hanger.However, the final finish of the item will need careful application of steam, vacuum andthe presser’s skills at manipulating the item to produce the desired appearance.

All items processed through the drycleaning press department receive far more handlingand attention than bulk processed work like sheets and towels in a laundry, and it isexpected that the special training and skill of the operatives will result in a higher qualityfinish. The customer/user is far more likely to pick fault with a pressed item of personalclothing than over a creased sheet or pillowcase.

Many items received for drycleaning are stained and therefore careful inspection at thecounter when the items are handed in is essential. All identified stains can be pre-treatedwhere necessary, prior to undergoing the drycleaning process – but there are likely to bemany stains that were either not identified at the reception counter or only became visibleas a result of the drycleaning process. Therefore all drycleaned items should be carefullyinspected when unloaded from the drycleaning machine so that any ‘stain post-treatment’can be undertaken.

Even then it is possible that a number of residual stains and dirty marks may be over-looked. It is therefore important that the presser carefully examines the items duringeach of the pressing lays, looking for any damage to the fabric or trims and accessories,or residual staining. If any defect or fault is identified, the presser should follow thecompany procedure to redirect the item to the appropriate department to have the faultcorrected – if possible.

This inspection and re-directing of faulty items during each stage of both the cleaning andpressing processes is essential to ensure customer satisfaction.

2.1. The influence of fibre type.Unlike in laundering, many of the fibres available to manufacturers will find theirway through to the drycleaner and end up at the press department for finishing.

An experienced presser, with many years experience, is often able to tell thedifference between many of the fibre types within the four basic fibre groups just bythe handle and feel of the fabric. However, modern textile manufacturers will oftenincorporate a small percentage of different fibre types in order to confer specialproperties on the fabric or finished item. It is often these additional fibres includedin the weave of the textile that can cause the greatest problem for the presser andthese are often difficult – if not impossible – to identify just by the handle, texture orfeel of the fabric. For example, the use of an elastomer to impart a ‘stretch’ finish tomany fabrics is now commonplace, but if the fabric is not designed to withstandsteam (and is labelled with a one-dot iron symbol to signify this), then steaming ona steam-air former or on the buck of a press or the bed of an ironing table can snapthe fine elastomeric fibres. The fabric suddenly ‘sprouts’ broken ends.




It is therefore essential that the presser checks the care label attached to the itemand fully understands the meaning and interpretation of what these symbols mean.

It is worth noting at this point that although there are no dedicated care labelsymbols for pressing, the ‘Ironing’ symbols are meant to include all of theconditions likely to be generated whilst using a live steam press or steam iron inthe commercial drycleaning operation.

Very heat sensitive fibres such as PVC, modacrylics and acrylics may carry a ‘donot iron’ symbol ( ) and other fabrics may have restrictions on the hot platetemperature of any ironing or pressing operation.

Advice on the highest metal temperature which a heat sensitive item can withstandshould be shown on the care label, which should use the iron symbol with one, twoor three dots to signify this.

Labelling for recommended ironing temperatures.

IRONINGSymbol Brief meaning

Steam ironing may be risky.Cool iron 110ºCMedium temperatureiron 150ºC

Hot iron 200ºC

Do not iron. Steam andsteaming treatments not allowed

It should be remembered that an electric iron or an electrically heated press has acalibrated temperature control dial that is labelled to match the dot symbols. Theadvice on the care label should be used to adjust this setting. The steam-heatedmetal head of a commercial hot-head press has only one fixed temperature, basedon the steam pressure and this can vary between 150º (4 bar steam) and 185ºC(10 bar steam), so extreme care should be taken in selecting items to be finishedon this type of press. Otherwise acrylic, modacrylic and polypropylene items areeasily damaged.

There are four basic fibre groups as follows (with examples):-

Animal Vegetable Synthetic(Man-Made)

Regenerated

woolsilkcashmere

cottonlinenflax

polyamidepolyesteracrylic

cellulose acetateviscose rayoncupro

There is a fifth fibre group – Mineral – which includes glass fibre and metallicfibres. These are not often encountered in drycleaning. Glass fibre curtains areusually rejected for drycleaning because the fibres break up and contaminate themachine and this damages the fabric. Metallic fibres are used for some delicateevening wear and in saris. They sometimes clean satisfactorily but often theybecome discoloured. They should be pressed with caution and great care.




Each of the fibres within each of the four main groups has similar properties forpressing, which affect the way they can be handled and processed on the pressand the type of press that is used to finish them.

Animal fibres – are all ‘hair’ taken either from the fleece of the animal as with woolor cashmere or taken from the cocoon as with the silk worm. As a general rule ofthumb, if you can do something to your own hair without damaging it then you cando it to an animal fibre material. For example, excess rubbing of most woollenfibres will cause the scales of the fibre to interlock and this leads to matting of thefabric. The scales on hair fibres rise if the fibre is wetted. The fibres become veryelastic and pliable when subjected to both heat and moisture (steam). This meansthat animal fibres need very little steaming on the press to remove the creases, butextra care is required to avoid pulling the fabric out of shape.

Vegetable fibres are very strong and highly resistant to temperature, moisture andstrong alkalis. Once the fibre is dried, live steam will have very little effect and willoften only produce a ‘rough dried’ type of finish, which is why cotton and linen cansometimes be very difficult to finish. If a smooth even ‘crisp’ finish is required onmost cotton items, it is necessary to press them (‘finish’ them) whilst they areslightly damp. Best results are achieved using a hot head press (or an iron at thethree-dot temperature setting).

Man-made fibres such as polyester and polyamide are petro-chemical derivativesand are very resistant to chemical attack (both acid and alkali) but they are‘thermo-plastic’ – which means that they soften and melt at relatively lowtemperatures and then deform easily.This thermoplastic property of polyamide and polyester works to our advantage,because strong sharp creases can be easily set into this type of material and theseresist the stresses and strains of normal wear. However, although it works to ouradvantage it can also work to our disadvantage if the crease is put into the wrongplace – making it impossible to fully remove.

Regenerated fibres are also man-made, but the raw material used is wood-pulp orcotton linters. Most regenerated fibres are sensitive to moisture. Viscose will lose50% of its strength when wetted and acetate can develop fine cracked ice creasingwhen wetted (especially if subjected to mechanical action as well). This is why it ismuch riskier to wash a viscose or acetate fabric than a cotton, linen or polyesterone.

Some fabrics contain a miscellany of different fibres and the fibre content labelcarries the term “mixed fibres”. These fabrics should ring all the alarm bells for thepresser, because they frequently contain polypropylene (for strength) and this canshrink alarmingly both in drycleaning and pressing. Even steaming on the formercan trigger irreversible shrinkage and they are best left unfinished.




7. Name the five groups of fibre types?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

8. Name two natural fibres?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

9. Draw the fabric care symbol that indicates the use of steam may cause irreversibledamage:




3. GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

This section details how a tailored suit jacket is constructed. A tailored suit jacket is themost complex item a drycleaner encounters in terms of its construction. It is made upfrom many components including the outer cloth, lining, interfacing or hair canvas/clothand padding especially to the shoulder area.

3.1. Trousers, coats, skirts, blouses, shirtsand dresses are constructed in asimilar way but generally with fewercomponents. Therefore for thepurpose of this unit we will concentrateon the tailored suit jacket.The diagram opposite details theterms used to identify the differentparts of a suit jacket.This is followed by the internalcomponents of the construction.

There are many components that are made from a range of different materials.These can be natural materials such as horse hair or be synthetic such as theshoulder wedges (foam) and Silesia (padding).

3.2. Each of the components used in the manufacture of a jacket can react differently tocleaning and each will have a different potential for shrinkage. Also the method ofapplication will have an effect on the item durability. Padding and interfacing canbe sewn in or more commonly fused (glued) to the other components using acombination of heat, time and pressure.

If the components are not stitched correctly, or the interfacing is not suitable or isincorrectly fused, then irremovable rippling can result, which the presser cannotovercome. Strong paint removers used in stain pre-treatment can also damage aninterlining and cause rippling.

3.3. The picture on the next page shows some of the pieces that make up the "canvas"which is sandwiched between the lining and the garment outer fabric. The purposeof the ‘canvas’ is to produce and hold the shape of the garment even if it is notexactly the same shape as the wearer.

3.4. The foundation of the canvas is a large piece offabric known as "hair canvas" that is cut to theshape of the front and then various locations areslashed and either pulled together or spread apartto provide the shaping.The pieces A, B and C are stitched or fused usingheat, time and pressure in front or behind the slitsto hold them in the forced positions. A spreads theshoulder edge to provide the beautiful curve to theshoulder. B and C shape the chest and pinch thewaist.




The shoulder wedges can be seen peeking out from under the bottom of theshoulder. These are also stretched and shaped to provide proper shouldercontours.

3.5. The haircloth goes over the chest area to provide extra shape and firmness. Bothhair cloth and hair canvas contain hair from the manes and tails of horses orsimilar coarse fibres. This makes the garment component very pliable and easilyshaped under steam pressure so it retains this shape after pressing. The differencebetween the two is the amount of hair in the fabric; the hair cloth has about fivetimes as much hair as the hair canvas.

Wearing a "hair-shirt" is considered a way of someone ‘doing- penance’. The hairfeels more like wire scratching on the skin than fine thread and this makes the hair-shirt most uncomfortable. We obviously do not want this hair sticking through thefabric in our tailored garments so the hair cloth or canvas and all its exposed edgesare covered with the flannel and Silesia padding.

3.6. This photo also shows how the shoulder pad is installed between the canvas andthe garment fabric.The pocket is constructed on both sides of the garment frontand tacked in a few places to the canvas for additional support.It is the fabric used for the inside pouch which is known as“Silesia”.

The roll line of the lapel is given shape by stitching a cotton tapealong the inside edge of the lapel fold. The entire front andbottom of the jacket is taped in a similar manner to provide acrisp look after the facing is attached.It is also essential when constructing a garment to ensure that all the componentsin the construction, including the trimmings, are covered by the care label. Thisincludes the thread used, buttons, trims, the internal components and the externalcloth used.

Thread tension is also important to ensure the final garment seams do not pucker –because all textiles ‘relax’ to some extent during the drycleaning and washingprocess and therefore if the seam stitch tension is too high, the thread relaxationshrinkage will often cause the garment to pucker.

Thus pressing may be required to correct garment distortion created duringmanufacture and also in wear. A cause of distortion in manufacture is too high aseam stitch tension; during wear it could be pressure creasing to the seat of a pairof trousers.The correct application of steam, pressure and vacuum will rectify this distortion.

3.7 In pressing, each garment is finished by a series of LAYS. Each lay is a positionof the garment on the buck or ironing surface. The series should cover the entiregarment. Out-of-the-way places that cannot be pressed with the machineshould be smoothed out with a hand iron or other hand tool.

The lays used vary from presser to presser and from organisation to organisation.For example, some pressers use two lays for pressing the front of shirts, one with




the pocket flap up and the other with the flap down. Other pressers use one laywith the flap down and get accept able work. When determining the propersequence of lays for a garment, take into consideration the following:

1. Minimum number of lays required to do the work satisfactorily.2. Logical sequence of lays, for easy and quick handling.3. The part of the garment to be pressed last to prevent damage to

the finish of the most conspicuous areas.A garment that is nearly finished should not be handled excessively during touch-up.

3.8. Types of trimmings and accessories and how to deal with themLarge glass or semi precious stone beads, shell buttons, metal motifs and glassdrops should be removed before cleaning, as they can crack and chip in thetumbling and finishing processes. Large trims may also cause damage and“impression marks” on the carrier cloth. Additional care should be taken whenpressing fur and feather trim.

Leather and leather trimmed garments are particularly susceptible to steam andmust be treated with caution. Use just sufficient steam to render the leather softand flexible, so that puckering to the seams can be removed using tension andvacuum. Bring the lay to the correct shape and size and then apply vacuum tocool, dry and set the lay before tension is released.

10. How might a puckered seam be made to look smooth?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

11. In pressing, what does the term “lay” mean?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

12. What internal components of a suit jacket may cause a problem in pressing?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

13. What should be considered when determining the sequence of lays?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................




14. What might you do to prevent a large metal trim from damaging a knitted wooldress?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................




4. THE ‘FREE-STEAM’ (HOFFMAN) PRESS

The free-steam press uses live, low pressure steam (from the 4 bar steam supply) whichis blown onto and through the fabric to help remove creases and at the same timeshape the garment. These presses are used on items that are already dry, straight fromthe drycleaning machine.

4.1. The garment is moved over the buck of the press in a pre-determined sequence of‘lays’ which the operator must learn and apply in exactly the right sequence. Thesteam provides moist heat to soften the fibres so that each lay can be shaped andsized using hand tension as necessary to remove puckering and restoredimensions. The head is thenbrought down and the lay ispressed. The lock may beapplied to ensure uniformpressing of every lay – butextreme care here is requiredas certain types of materials willglaze or be damaged if thehead is ‘locked’ – especially onseams and multiple thicknessesof fabric. In this situation thehead of the press is lowered to‘just make contact’ with thematerial so the item beingpressed in ‘tamped’.

4.2. Vacuum is applied to the buckas the head is raised, to cool,dry and set the lay beforemoving on to the next. This laststep is very important. For example, if a pair of pure wool suit trousers is notcorrectly dried and set using vacuum through the buck, the main leg creases willgo soft on the hanger. This is one of the main reasons why professionaldrycleaning and pressing can produce a much sharper and longer lasting creasethan domestic pressing.

4.3. If the garment is too delicate to bring down the head fully, then ‘top steam’ can beapplied through the head to help to finish off the upper surface. Curved areas suchas the armhole seam on a suit jacket can be successfully finished around thenarrow curved end of the buck (termed the ‘nose’). On this part of the buck it ispossible to steam and stretch the armhole seam to remove the pucker, then applyvacuum to cool, dry and set the lay before tension is released. The set result willbe smooth and pucker-free.

4.4. The free-steam press will always have a padded buck and very often it will alsohave a padded head. In some drycleaners, especially if the press is dedicated topressing, say, trousers only, the head of the press may have an aluminium ray-plate instead of press padding. This creates a sharper finish.




4.5. The press padding covers perforated metal distributors (sometimes called a ‘ray-plate’) which allow steam to be blown uniformly through the padding into thegarment. To remove the moisture and thus assist drying after steaming, the buck issupplied with vacuum.

4.6. The press padding may be supplied as a pre-formed sewn and shaped cover thatcan be pulled and stretched over the buck and secured in place with springs fittedwith claws (tension clips) that bite into the top layer of padding to hold it in place.

4.7. Alternatively the press adding may be purchased on much larger rolls and then cutto size in the drycleaners to fit each of the different presses employed.

4.8. In most situations a typical press padding will consist of:-(a) A bottom layer of KCP – Knitted Cotton Padding – over which is laid….(b) …one or two layers of Canton – a thick fluffy needle-felt type material. This

will then be covered with…..(c) …..a single layer of Tridura – a very strong polyester-cotton fabric that

provides a smooth even surface to the press buck.

4.9. The quantity of padding used will be largely dictated by the amount of resiliencerequired on the press buck and local management preferences.

4.10. ‘Live steam’ presses work at lower temperatures than hot head presses andreduce the risk of overheating and damaging heat sensitive fabrics.

4.11. All live steam operated presses are ‘scissor’ presses meaning that the bottombuck is static and the top – or head – pivots on a hinge to effectively squeeze thefabric to be pressed between the head and the buck.

4.12. These presses may be operated manually, meaning that to lower the head ontothe buck requires the operator to bring the head down by hand (with assistancefrom a foot pedal). Some types can be pneumatically operated (with compressedair) which requires the operator to set the fabric in place on the press buck beforethen operating the automatic press head by depressing two widely spacedbuttons on the front of the press.

4.13. In both instances these presses will have the facility to inject steam through thebuck and/or the head, as well as to apply vacuum through the buck. The steaminjection and vacuum will always be manually operated. This is normally via afoot pedal for the buck and levers on the press head for live steam injectionthrough the head.

4.14. In general, the manually operated press is preferred by more experiencedpressers as this gives them the flexibility of being able to either lightly ‘tamp’ moresensitive fabrics, e.g. those containing wool or regenerated fibres, or to lock thehead down when sharp creases or smoother finishes are required on certaintypes of garment.

4.15. If you apply to much pressure to a sensitive fabric or to multiple thicknesses ofany fabric, the surface is compressed and the fabric goes lighter and develops ashine. This is termed “glazing” and thermoplastic fabrics such as polyester arevery sensitive to this.




15. What is meant by the terms?

Canton................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

Tridura ................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

16. How would you prevent glazing of a navy blue wool jacket?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

An air operated free steam press




5. ESSENTIAL OPERATOR CHECKS FOR THE FREE-STEAM PRESS

5.1. The press clothing can only perform its function if it is uniformly resilient, so thatit can take up the double seam and button areas without causing imprints whenthe head is brought down. If it has been allowed to get wet and then been heatedand compressed, it will be hard and compacted and the result will be rather likethat obtained by ironing on a kitchen table. If the clothing is dirty with grimy lint orrings from the mugs used at coffee break, then these marks will eventuallyimprint off onto a white Armani sweater with undesired consequences.

5.2. When the head is locked down, the locking pressure must be just sufficient toachieve the desired finish but not so tight as to cause impressions of every seam– there is only so much that can be absorbed, even by resilient clothing. As aguide, if the press head is brought down onto a handkerchief it should just bepossible to pull the handkerchief free with firm hand tension.

5.3. The steam introduced to the buck and the head must be dry i.e. free fromdroplets of condensation. There is usually a small ‘steam trap’ to drain the steamsupply pipe of any droplets before it enters the press, but this will only do the jobif it is working properly and if the steam pipe up to there is adequately insulated.Otherwise the heat loss from an un-insulated pipe will produce lots of dropletsand these will make the press clothing wet and potentially ruin it.

5.4. The steam distribution across the buck and the head must be uniform and thiscan be checked visually by operating the steam controls with the head up. Thisensures that all parts of the garment are evenly finished. If the steam distributorand layers of padding within the head become blocked or distorted then this mustbe rectified before pressing can commence.

5.5. The vacuum applied to the buck must be strong enough to dry even a thick lay ina few seconds. Too weak a vacuum will quickly be revealed by trouser creasesthat go soft on the hanger. The vacuum should be strong enough to hold ahandkerchief in position so that firm tension is needed to move it.

5.6. Vacuum distribution across the buck must also be uniform and this can bechecked with a handkerchief also. Vacuum distribution is much more sensitive todampness and damage within the padded structure than steam distribution.

17. What is the main reason for using a free steam press rather than a hot head presson temperature sensitive fabrics

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

18. What essential check do you make to a press before use?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................




6. PROFESSIONAL IRONING TABLE

6.1. The function of the professional ironingtable is to allow the operator to finish eachpart of the garment by hand ironing,efficiently and with very good quality. Inorder to achieve this, the professionalironing table is designed to:

allow steam to be directed onto the topsurface of the lay through the iron soleplate

bring steam to the bottom layer of eachlay through the bed of the table

enable the operator safely to applytension to each lay to remove puckerand wrinkles

allow ironing pressure to be used tosmooth the lay and flatten creases

allow vacuum to be applied to cool, dry and set the cloth allow air to be blown through the garment to enable sensitive areas to be

finished with steam on a bed of air and to help to give bulk to knitted goods allow small parts of the garment such as sleeves and bagged areas to be

efficiently accessed

6.2. Components of the professional finishing table

The bed of the table is the main flat parton which the garment is placed in a seriesof lays, similar to the sequence used forthe free-steam press.

The bed corresponds to the buck of thefree-steam press and is clad with resilientclothing just as the buck is and for thesame reasons. Steam is introducedthrough the bed under control of the foot

pedal and another pedal calls in vacuumat the end of each lay. The bestfinishing tables also have an air-blowfacility which enables air to be blownthrough the bed. This allows a sensitiveitem to be suspended on a bed of air, sothat a delicate lining, for example, canbe steam finished without indentationmarks and without causing any markson the outer fabric below.

Photo Courtesy of Parisienne




The table has a hand iron attached which can either be steam-electric andcapable of achieving three dot iron symbol temperatures (200ºC) or steam-only,which limits it to 100ºC to 120ºC. The best irons are fitted with a Teflon shoe toprotect delicate fabrics from over-heating and glazing.

The table comes equipped with presser’spad and presser’s mitt to protect the handduring intricate operations when it isnecessary to handle hot work.

The foot-pedals to the table control steam,vacuum and air-blow. The steam switchon the iron controls free steam through thesole plate.

The best table comes with a miniatureversion of itself for ironing sleeves andother hard to access areas.

The sleeving arm has exactly the samemake-up as the bed and when it is swunground over the table for use, then steam,vacuum and air-blow are automaticallydelivered to it as called for by theappropriate pedal.

Glazing is the shine achieved (usually accidentally) by the application of too muchheat and pressure. This is especially obvious when it happens at a seam, becausethe seam becomes embossed and both pale and shiny.

6.3. Ancillary itemsPaddles, blocks and bolts are tools used by the operator to help smooth out thefabric or to finish rounded panels on shaped articles. Sleeve formers are spring-loaded shaping tools inserted into a sleeve so that it can be subjected to steam (totake out the wrinkles) and vacuum (to cool, dry and set the cloth in the wrinkle-freecondition). In this way a perfectly shaped sleeve can be produced every time.




Ironing tables can be purchased to run off the unit‘s central boiler, or there are self-contained versions available, each with its own integral boiler.The essential operator checks listed for the free-steam press apply equally to theprofessional finishing table.

19. How is the risk of glazing minimised when using the iron?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

20. What are paddles, blocks and bolts used for?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................




7. THE OPEN STEAM-AIR FORMER

The open steam-air garment former standsalone in the workroom with no enclosure orcabinet around it. It consists of an air-bagwhich approximates in size and shape tothe human torso, through which first steamand then hot air may be blown.

7.1. A garment placed over the former willbecome moist and relaxed whensteam is blown through it during thefirst stage of the former cycle. It willexpand slightly with the force of thesteam flowing through it. Then hot airis substituted for the steam and theentire garment is blown up like the‘Michelin man’, within the limits of theair bag and the garment construction.In this way, the wrinkles, creases andpucker are removed and the garmentis taken off the former both dry andset, usually needing only the minimumof touching up on the press or finishingtable.

7.2. The garment former is equipped with three important tools.

a. The sleeve former is used to shape the sleeve and to set the sleeve at thecorrect angle to the body so that, after finishing, the sleeve is elliptical in cross-section and angled to match the hang of thehuman arm. The sleeve former used at thegarment former is the same as the one usedon the finishing table or press.

b. The clamp is used to close the front buttonfastening of a jacket or coat and the vent at therear. The button-hole placket goes over thebutton placket for this purpose, to minimisevisible indentations. A rear vent is clamped inits normal position.

c. A stiff brush is used to raise the nap onbrushed cotton and similar items and manyoperatives take the opportunity of removing any residual lint immediately beforethe garment is removed from the air-bag using a sticky lint roller.

7.3. The timing of the forming operation is critical to quality and output. The steamingtime is first set by trial and error to be sufficient to relax and moisten even thethickest and most awkward item. The air-blow time is then set to be just sufficientto dry the garment free of the moisture created by the steaming. Typically the air-




blow time is double the steaming time, so if the steaming time is 10 seconds thenthe air-blow time would be 20 seconds.

7.4. Successful steam-air forming requires dry steam with no droplets of condensation– otherwise rusty marks appear on the air-bag and sometimes on the garments.The air-blower is usually integral to the former and must be capable of deliveringadequate hot air to dry the garment. This requires cleanliness from lint and aclean heater battery with no lint in the steam heated matrix.

21. What is the steam quality required for successful steam-air forming?

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................




8. ENCLOSED STEAM-AIR FORMER/ ROTARY CABINET FORMER

The steam air former quickly causes the work-room to be filled with hot humid air and for thisreason the enclosed steam air former orcabinet former was designed. This unit hastwo former heads which rotate in and out ofthe steaming cabinet, hence the alternativename ‘rotary cabinet former’.

On most cabinet formers, one former isshaped for jackets and coats and the other isfor trousers (often referred to as a ‘trousertopper’, because it will take the creases out ofthe difficult to access waistband pleats andcrotch at the top of the garment, but cannotset the final leg creases). Whilst one former-head, with its garment, is in the enclosedcabinet, being subjected first to steam andthen to air-blow, the other head is beingdressed by the operator. This gives muchhigher productivity.

Exactly the same tools are used for thecabinet former as for the open former andthe same requirements apply to steamand air-blow.




9. THE ‘HOT HEAD’ PRESS

The hot head press has been developed from the hand iron. The work is placed on apadded table (the buck) and a polished, steam heated metal head is brought down andheld with some pressure to provide a pressed finish.

A hot-head press is commonly used to speed up and improve the finished quality oflaundered shirts, because it dries and presses in one smooth operation, removing allwrinkles and creating a superior sheen. It is also ideal if your unit handles chefs’ wear.

9.1. The scissor press.The single buck scissor design of hot head press is used for cuffs, lapels, andcollars prior to finishing the shirt body on a shirt cabinet unit.

To prevent the operator trapping their fingers, hand or arm in the press themachine is operated by pressing two buttons simultaneously. A guard would alsobe fixed around the hot head to reduce the risk of burns.

9.2. Cabinet Units

When cabinet units were first introduced they were amajor innovation as they enabled cotton shirts to bepressed to a high quality in less than half the timetaken using a scissor press.

The padded buck on these units was fixed verticallyto the machine and was dressed a bit like a tailors’dummy. This buck then travelled along a track andthe front and back of the garment were pressed bytwo steam heated heads the same shape as the buck. Developments to thismachine included a move to twin bucks either side of a single cabinet. The latestdesigns use hot air blown into the garment body and sleeves to improve thefinished quality, with integral hot-head clamps for the cuffs.




22. Hot head presses are usually operated at 150ºC. List four articles that could beprocessed on one of these machines:-

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................




10. EFFICIENT OPERATION AND INSPECTION

Work for the live steam (Hoffman) press or garment former must be dry and free fromsolvent, but work to be pressed on a hot head press needs to be damp to ensure qualityof finish. This generally justifies the additional labour time and effort involved in apressed finish. The result is superb.

10.1. Adding moisture to an article being pressed on a ‘Hoffman’ press to allow creaseremoval will require between 3 and 15 seconds of free steam followed by twice asmuch vacuum time to ensure total moisture removal. Alternatively moisture can besprayed directly onto the article from a spray bottle.

10.2. All presses benefit from good quality clothing on the padded bucks. This helps toeven out any irregularities in the surface of the garment (e.g. buttons and seams)and improves the flow of steam injection and moisture extraction (via the vacuum)on a live steam press.

10.3. Before pressing starts, you should examine cleaning quality, paying particularattention to garment collars, cuffs and underarms for residual soiling. Rejection atthis point will prevent time wasted in pressing an article which is going to fail finalinspection and require re-processing. Also, if you press a stained article, you risksetting any residual protein based stains (such as perspiration) which thenbecome much more difficult to remove by post-spotting (because the hightemperature of pressing ‘cooks’ the stain onto the fibres).

10.4. Prepare work prior to pressing by pulling sleeves through, ensuring items are notinside out and rejecting stained soiled articles for re-cleaning. This will improveefficiency. You may also be able to redirect some of your workload to anotherfinishing process if it can be finished quicker and to an acceptable quality.

10.5. The finishing area needs to be kept clean and well lit as described previously.Whilst you are pressing each area of a garment you can also double check forresidual staining and damage.

Conclusion

Professional finishing (together with professional stain removal) is what sets the goodcleaning operative apart from the untrained amateur. Poor finishing often features highup in the list of customer complaints, but with just a little knowledge and attention to detailthis will become a thing of the past.

Remember, there is nothing better guaranteed to upset any customer if theygo to put on a garment and it is stained or buttons, zips and press-studs are

missing or broken.




Questions on Units LDC14 and 15Finishing garments using a free steam press and ironing table

Use this self check questionnaire to make sure that you know all that you need toknow about preceding section.When you have finished discuss your answers with your trainer.

1. How can moisture be added to a dry or damp garment during pressing?...........................................................................................................................................

...........................................................................................................................................

2. Explain what types of fibre cannot be steam-pressed and how you might finishthem:

(a): ...........................................................................................................................................

..........................................................................................................................................

(b) ...........................................................................................................................................

..........................................................................................................................................

(c) ............................................................................................................................................

..........................................................................................................................................

3 What are the maximum temperatures allowed by the one-dot, two-dot and three-dotiron symbols on a care label?

1...............................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

2...............................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

3...............................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

4. What makes a hot-head press different from a free-steam press?.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

5. Why does a hot head press achieve such a good finish on a linen shirt afterwashing?

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................




.................................................................................................................................................




6. Explain how a scissor press works..................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

7. What safety features would you expect to find on an automatic button-operatedscissor press?

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

8. Explain how a Cabinet Unit works..................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

9. Explain how a ‘free steam’ press works..................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

10. Why should you check for residual staining prior to commencing pressing?

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................




11. How can press clothing become hard and compacted (instead of soft and resilient)

and why is this a bad thing?

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

12. A new employee has just started in your department and you have been assignedto train them on how to operate the machinery in your department.Choose one item of equipment in you department and list the three most importantthings you would tell them to ensure they understood the correct use or operationof it.

1...............................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

2...............................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

3...............................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

13. For the piece of equipment selected in the question above – where is themanufacturers’ safety manual for this equipment kept?

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................

.................................................................................................................................................




Appendix 1

LDC14 Garment and item finishing using the ironing table after dry cleaning

At level 2, this unit is for those who press and inspect garments and items following the dry cleaning process.

The job role will involve:1. Pressing garments and items using a flat bed finishing table2. Inspecting pressed garments and items for quality

The competent person must: The key areas of knowledge and understanding1. Make sure that equipment is safe and

ready to use2. Press items to the finishing

specification3. Inspect items for satisfactory pressing4. Identify and deal with any items that

are not satisfactory according tocompany requirements.

1. Steam pressures, vacuum services and lighting requirements2. Requirements for adequate air extraction3. Ironing table clothing requirements4. Iron temperatures adjustments and ironing/steaming

techniques relative to different fabrics5. How to interpret care labels6. The value of vacuum in pressing7. The properties of main fibres8. Fabric construction9. Thermal sensitive fibres and velours

The skills and techniques1. Set up and close down the work station equipment for garment pressing and finishing2. Start up and close down boiler systems and air compressors3. Use of the ironing table and ancillary equipment4. Use of the iron, vacuum and blow facility5. Use of ancillary pressing aids6. Take precautions for the protection of the fabric, garment construction, finish and trims before steaming or

ironing7. Finish items to a required standard8. Correct distortions and restore shape to items9. Care of buttons, trims, accessories and zips10. Press linings11. Avoid damage to garments12. Care for sensitive fibres, knitwear, nap and long pile fabricsRegulations, rules and guidelines1. The organisation’s rules, codes, guidelines and standards2. Equipment operating procedures3. Machine and equipment capabilities4. Relevant responsibilities under the Health & Safety at Work Act and COSSH (Control of Substances

Hazardous to Health)5. Manufacturers instructionsWorkplace skills1. Communicate effectively with colleagues and customers2. Comply with written instructions3. Complete forms, reports and other documentation4. Keep accurate records




LDC15 Garment and item finishing using a free steam press

At level 2, this unit is for those who press and inspect garments and items following the dry cleaningprocess.

The job role will involve:1. Pressing garments and items using a free steam press2. Inspecting pressed garments and items for quality

The competent person must: The key areas of knowledge and understanding1. Make sure that equipment is safe and

ready to use2. Press items to the finishing

specification3. Inspect items for satisfactory pressing4. Identify and deal with any items that

are not satisfactory according tocompany requirements.

1. Steam pressures, vacuum services and lighting requirements2. Requirements for adequate air extraction3. Press buck clothing requirements and ancillary tools4. Use of correct lays for the garments pressed5. How to interpret care labels6. The value of vacuum in pressing7. The use of a water spray during pressing8. The properties of main fibres9. Fabric and garment construction10. Thermal sensitive fibres and velours

The skills and techniques1. Set up and close down the work station equipment for garment pressing and finishing2. Start up and close down boiler systems and air compressors3. Use of the press and vacuum4. Use of the iron of available, vacuum and blow facility5. Use of ancillary pressing aids6. Take precautions for the protection of the fabric, garment construction and finish before pressing7. Finish items to a required standard8. Correct distortions and restore shape to items9. Care of buttons, trims, accessories and zips during pressing10. Press linings11. Avoid damage to garments12. Care for sensitive fibres, knitwear, nap and long pile fabricsRegulations, rules and guidelines1. The organisation’s rules, codes, guidelines and standards2. Equipment operating procedures3. Machine and equipment capabilities4. Relevant responsibilities under the Health & Safety at Work Act and COSSH (Control of Substances

Hazardous to Health)5. Manufacturers instructionsWorkplace skills1. Communicate effectively with colleagues and customers2. Comply with written instructions3. Complete forms, reports and other documentation4. Keep accurate records




The following is an index of the key words used in this module

A

acetate 12, 13acrylic 11, 12air-bag 28aluminium clips 6Animal 12

B

bed 25blocks 27Blown Down 8bolts 27brush 28buck 4, 7, 11, 17, 20, 21, 22, 24, 26, 31, 32, 40burns and scalds 4, 5burnt 4, 7button placket 28buttons 4, 16, 17, 22, 31, 33, 34, 39, 40

C

cabinet 5, 28, 30, 31, 32cabinet formers 5Cabinet Units 31calcium 8Canton 21, 22canvas 15, 16cashmere 12cellulose 12chefs’ wear 31cladding 6clamp 28cleanliness 5, 29collars 31, 33Compressed air 5condensation 24cotton 12, 13, 16, 21, 28, 31covers 21creases 4, 10, 12, 13, 20, 22, 24, 25, 28, 30crotch 30cuffs 31, 32, 33cupro 12

D

deform 13delicate 12, 20, 26distortion 16dry steam 29drycleaning 7, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 16, 20

E

Electricity 5

F

falls 4fibre type 10flax 12fluorescent 7foot pedal 22foot-pedals 26former cycle 28formers 5, 27, 30free-steam 5, 20, 21, 25, 26, 27, 35

G

garment 4, 5, 7, 10, 15, 16, 17, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25,28, 29, 30, 32, 33, 34, 35, 39, 40

Garment pressers 4glass fibre 12glaze 20glazing 22Glazing 27guard rails 4

H

hand iron 17hand ironing 25hazard 5head 4, 5, 11, 13, 20, 21, 22, 24, 30, 31, 32, 33, 35HEALTH AND SAFETY 4heat and moisture 12heater battery 29HOFFMAN 20hot head 31hot head press 13, 24, 31, 33, 35hot sole plate 5Hygiene 5

I

injury 4, 5, 6inspection 5, 10, 33insulation 5iron 5, 6, 11, 13, 17, 25, 26, 27, 31, 35, 39, 40ironing table 25

J

jacket 4, 15, 16, 17, 20, 22, 28jammed 4




K

KCP 21Knitted Cotton Padding 21

L

lapel 16lays 17, 18, 20, 25, 40LAYS 17Leather 17lighting 7, 9, 39, 40linen 12, 13, 35lint 24, 28, 29locked’ 20locking pressure 24

M

machines 4, 6, 8, 32magnesium 8Man-Made 12melt 13messages 8metallic fibres 12mildew 7Mineral 12

N

needle-felt 21nose’ 20

O

odours 7, 8operator injury 4

P

padded buck 21padded head 21padding 15, 16, 21, 24Paddles 27paperwork 7perforated metal 21personal safety 4pleats 30pneumatically 21polished 31polyamide 12, 13polyester 12, 13, 21, 22polypropylene 11, 13Prepare 8, 33prepared 7press clothing 6, 24, 38press department 4, 10

press head 4, 22, 24presser’s mitt 26presser’s pad 26pressing lays 10pre-treated 10pucker 16, 20, 25, 28

R

rayon 12ray-plate’ 21Regenerated 12, 13relaxation shrinkage 16residual soiling 33resilience 21resilient 24, 26, 38restore dimensions 20

S

safe 6, 7, 8, 9, 39, 40safety pins 6, 7scissor presses 4shirt cabinet 31shirts 31shoulder 4, 15, 16shrinkage 13, 15, 16silk 12sleeve former 28sleeves 26sleeving arm 26slips 4solvent 8, 10, 33stained 10, 33, 34steam 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11, 12, 14, 16, 17, 20, 21,

22, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 35, 37,40

steam boilers 8Steam generators 8steam pressure 4, 11, 16steam puffers’ 4steam temperature 4steam trap’ 24steam-air former 6, 11STEAM-AIR FORMER 28sticky lint roller 28stitching 16Synthetic 12

T

tailors’ dummy 32tamped’ 20Teflon shoe 26thermoplastic 13, 22Thread tension 16three-dot temperature 13tingles’ 7trapped 4




trapping hands 4Tridura 21, 22trims 10, 16, 17, 39, 40trouser topper’ 30twin bucks 32

U

underarms 33

V

vacuum 6, 10, 16, 17, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25, 26, 27, 33,39, 40

Vacuum 20, 24vacuum’ 6Vegetable 12ventilation 7viscose 12, 13

W

waistband 30whiplash 5wire hangers 5wool 12, 19, 20, 22

dco ldc14&15 garment and item finishing · ldc14 & 15 garment and item finishing using...

Documents