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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, GANDHINAGAR

Submitted To-Ettishree Rajput

Submitted By:

NIVEDITA KUMARIPRASHANT SRIVASTAVARANGNATH RAMANSUNIDHI KUMARIRAVISH KHAN ( DFT-4)

FGF ASSIGNMENT -IV

Pressing Pressing is the application of heat, moisture and

pressure to shape, mould, or crease fabrics,garments, or garment parts into the geometric forms.

 Pressing may be done : During assembly to facilitate other operations

and improve quality. Final finishing process The purpose of pressing is to make the fabric

smooth or to give it a form, such as turnup or hem. 

Elements of Pressing Heat : Heat is needed in most pressing processes to

soften fibers, stabilize and set the desired shape . Temperatures must be selected to suit the fibers , yarns , and fabrics used in a particular style . Sources of heat include heated surfaces and steam.

Steam (Moisture):It is the fastest means of transferring heat into the fabrics . Steam is created by heating water in a pressure/boiler. The higher the pressure , the hotter and drier the steam . Different fabrics require different amount of moisture and heat , excessive moisture may cause shrinkage and color bleeding and must be used under controlled conditions.

Pressure : It is applied to alter shape and increase the permanency of the moulding or creasing. Too much pressure may distort fabric surfaces , flatten textures and create permanent garment and/or fabric damage.

Vacuum : After application of heat and moisture , it is the vacuum which sucks ambient air through the garment as it lies on the buck or pressing table. This rapidly dries out residual moisture from the garment and ensures that the set imparted by pressing is retained. Suction also ensures garments is in place before pressing and it does not shift.

Types Of Pressing Equipment Buck presses.

Iron pressing.

Block or die pressing.

Form pressing.

Steamers.

Steam tunnels.

Buck Pressing These are commonly used by

manufactures of slacks , skirts , and jackets.

Components-

1. Lower buck

2. Moveable head with a linkage system

3. Buck padding stem and vacuum system frame

4. Manual or automatic control for steams, vacuum ,heat and pressure.

5. Covered with heat resistent silicon Foams

It may be used for in-process pressing & finish pressing.

Press for jacket shoulders and collars.

Iron Pressing

Point presser: for pressing collars and cuffs

Tailors ham: For darts and curved seams

Sleeve Board: It is two small ironing boards to press narrow areas such as sleeves and trouser legs.

MITT: to press sleeve caps and ruffles.

Block Pressing It is a molding process that

establishes a products conformance to a form.

It may change the surface characteristics and dimension of a product.

The fabric is placed on a fixed form before pressure heat and steam is applied.

It is used to crease patch pockets and pocket flaps.

Fig:-Block pressing

Form Pressing Form presses are made in the

approximate shape of the finished garments.

Steam is forced from the inside of the form through garment while the form expands to fill all the space inside the garment.

It is designed to reduce the amount of positioning and re-positioning time.

Fig:- Form pressing

Steamers These are the pressing machine

that uses only steam to mold and smooth the garment.

Types of steamers-

steam jets.

steam guns.

steam puffs.

steam tunnels. These devices may be used

either to form and stabilize garment shape.

fig:- Steamers

Steam Tunnels These are used for final pressing.

Garments are de-wrinkled within a chamber by the average pressure of circulating steam.

Garments are carried over the nozzle of a steam jet in order for the garment to receive the full force of the steam pressure.

It reduces labor costs and process garment at a rate of 1200 to 3600 units per hour.

• Head is suspended on rocker arms for self aligning with the bed.

• Machined pressing surface. • Pneumatic raising and lowering

with push buttons. • Perforated bed prodded with

sponge padding. Powerful centrifugal suction for moisture exhaust.

• Automatic timed release of the head at preset time.

• Automatic digital temperature control of the head.

Flat Bed Pneumatic

Compressed air  Compressed

air is air kept under a pressure that is greater than atmospheric pressure.

Compressed air, also referred to as the "4th Utility" (after electricity, water & steam) is one of the major energy consumption utility in any industry.

Use of Compressed Air in Textile IndustryIn Textile manufacturing units, generally following Compressed air powered pneumatic systems are used : Spinning machine : For control purpose through

valves and cylinders Loom Jet Weaving : For the insertion of weft Winding Device : For the purpose of splicing of yarn Stacking Device Printing machines Thread Detector Sewing Machine

Applications• Compressed air is used mainly as a motive force to

actuate the process control valves and machines in a textile mill.

• System Cooling• Clamping• Blowing out residual / dust material• Sewing Needle• Conveying• Texturizing• Automated Equipment• Cleaning• Pneumatic control

Energy Savings in Ironing and Pressing Despite growing concerns with

energy, companies are still suffering from low interest in energy efficiency mainly due to the low ratio of energy costs / total costs and low internal knowledge on this area, accordingly there is an interesting potential for savings in the clothing industry.

Vacuum Vacuum systems are used to remove the excess

steam used in the equipments of finishing and pressing sub processes and for suction of waste produced by cutting and sewing sub processes.

Over-consumption in this area is due to: All or nothing utilization, i.e, even if only one

production machine is in use the suction is being applied to all machines;

Leakage in network; Extracted hot air is wasted (of steam consumer

machines) Lack of electronic control and frequency variation.

Heat (boiler and gas/fuel supply) In the clothing industry thermal energy

is used in air conditioning, in finishing and preparation for sewing sub processes and, in some companies, for treatment. This energy can either be supplied by direct combustion of gas in the productive machines, or indirectly through production of steam or hot water.

Critical points for excess consumption by indirect means: Boiler / Steam Generator oversized; Boiler / Steam generator poorly insulated or uninsolated; Produced steam pressure higher than required;

Misadjusted burner; Uninsulated pipes and fittings; Leakage in steam / hot water network; Waste of condensates from the steam network; Malfunction of network accessories; Inexistent flue gas heat recuperation; Deficient maintenance / cleaning.

Critical points for excess consumption through direct feed: Uninsolated consumer equipment; Misadjusted burner; Unmodulated burner control;Oversized ventilator or without

control.

Compressed air Compressed air is a critical point not only because

is the most expensive form of energy in the plant but also its optimization is relatively easy.

The most significant losses in production, distribution and use of compressed air, are:

Inexistent cut valves for air consumers; Leaks in the distribution network; Distribution network undersized; Produced pressure is greater than necessary; Oversized air compressor;

Iron Ironing is the use of a heated tool to remove wrinkles from

fabric.   Ironing involves sliding an iron back and forth to remove

wrinkles and is normally only done to finished garments. The heating is commonly done to a temperature of 180–220

°Celsius, depending on the fabric.

Ironing works by loosening the bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibers of the material.

While the molecules are hot, the fibers are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold their new shape as they cool.

Types Of IronA. Dry Iron

light weight irons weighing about 1.4 kgs with a heat range

of between 70 and 240 degree C and electronic temperature

controls that have a reliable accuracy of +/- 3 degree C.

This type of iron is made in a variety of shapes and is mainly

used for smoothing or finishing operations where steam is

unnecessary.

Types Of Iron cont…B. Electric Steam Irons

These are the most commonly used type of hand iron and carry out a wide

variety of operations, especially those concerned with under pressing.

The iron has a heating element and steam is fed from a central or

independent boiler into the steam chamber in the base of the iron.

The heat generated can be controlled by a thermostat, and supplied with

steam either from factory’s main steam supply or from a small boiler

adjacent to the pressing unit.

The steam function of the iron is activated by the touch of a button.

Different temperatures required for different fabrics

The manufacturing Process

Sole plate The sole plate is cast of molten aluminum. Part of the mold creates the holes

that are essential in a steam iron The cooled sole plate is polished, coated with a non-stick PTFE(a thermoplastic

polymer ) material, or stainless steel. To polish the plate, an automated belt sander uses bands of abrasive to polish

and buff the plate. An automated spray-painting machine applies non-stick coating. After

application, the sole plate is baked in an automated industrial process.

Thermostat In an injection mold, a small metal post is cast. A spring is mounted onto the metal post. This spring is a bimetallic switch made

of two different metals with divergent linear thermal coefficients bonded together which controls the iron's temperature.

Assembly When all the parts are manufactured, the iron is assembled on an automated

assembly line.

Distinguishing Electric-steamIron from All-steam Iron

Steam is used to heat the iron and discharge a moist spray, whereas a steam electric iron uses a heating element to keep the iron warm and a solenoid holds the steam from the iron until called for

All steam irons have live steam circulating in the iron and the iron hoses can burst and scald someone. The steam electric iron also has a hose but the electric solenoid holds the steam out of the hose until the electric micro-switch is touched on the iron. Thus there is no steam under pressure in the iron.

In all-steam irons, temperature depends on the pressure of the steam. This limits the working temperature for the irons between 140 to 1500 C, whereas a steam electric has a thermostat which will allow the temperature to be finely adjusted from 100 to 2000 C.

Types of Iron TablesThere are three types of iron tables –

1. vacuum table2. ‘up steam’table3. Blow up table

Vacuum Table The vacuum is sucked through the table

surface to lay the garment flat on the surface as well as suck the residual moisture and heat from the garment after ironing.

‘Upsteam ’table In this steam comes up from table

surface through garments thus moistening the garment.

This is used for knitted garments. An up-steam table guarantees a

complete and even distribution of steam and suction over the whole surface.

All parts contacted by steam are made of stainless steel.

which prevents spots from corrosion and guarantees a long working life and trouble-free operation.

Blow Up Table

In 1969, VEIT invented the blow up table that offers cushioning effect to the garments due to the upward thrust of air from the table which prevents ironing marks on the garments.

Air blowing is used in combination with vacuum to assist in finishing the garment without leaving marks.

Using air blowing, the garment is expanded and pressed on a cushion of air where ironing is possible without putting in marks.

Ironing Table Cover Cloth

It is very important to have a proper cover system to maintain proper suction, which should not be too hard or too soft.

The cover cloth should be porous to be able to draw the vacuum through the garment to dry and cool it.

Ironing Table Consists Of Following Layers:-

There are Five layers:1. The Top Cover,2. The Intermediate Layer,3. Adjusting Fibre,4. Base Layer and5. Ironing Surface.

The Top Cover

The Top Cover may consist of either synthetic fibre, which has long life, short-term heat-resistance up to

1800 C and hand washable in soap water (300 C), or

polyester fibre, especially for fabrics that are subject to sheen and mostly used with hard covers (seam ironing).

It could also use synthetic coarse fibre, which is slide resistant. It keeps the garment as positioned, has a long life and short-term heat-resistance up to 1900 C.

The Intermediate Layer(about 5 – 10 mm thick)  This padding is responsible for the softness of the

covering and thus directly influences the ironing result. A hard padding usually is more durable and speeds up ironing as the pressure of the iron is not absorbed.

Adjusting Fibre

•The Adjusting Fibre guarantees the complete splitting of the condensate drops and reduces the humidity in the cover system.

The Base Layer is generally a patented silicon mat for long term good suction result. This distributes strong airflow evenly over the entire surface, can be cleaned easily by compressed air.

It could also be of polyurethane material of 6 mm thickness, which permits good air flow over the entire surface.

Base Layer

Steam Brush A ‘steam brush’ is indispensable to

finish off smoothening out creases and undoing shrinkage.

It is very rational since it can be used to finish a hanging garment on a hanger.

With high quality and strong steam, it is suitable for finishing such clothes as light suits, synthetic fibres and even gathers and frills.

Parts

How to use?? Once the appliance is plugged in, the

light will turn on. Set the steam control dial to the desired setting.

After approximately 30 seconds, the light will turn off indicating the steam brush, has reached working temperature.

To begin steaming, press the steam button with the steamer head facing away from you, in vertical position.

Be sure to remove lint pad when steaming as excessive water or steam can cause lint pad color to run.

Steam setting

Problems Related to Steam Brush With Their Solutions

References http://content.abt.com/documents/28966/DR502

0_use.pdf https://12textile.wordpress.com/tag/application-o

f-thermodynamics-and-textile/

http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/21/2059/growing-role-of-compressed-air-system-in-textile-industries1.asp

http://www.delairindia.com/application_detail.php?AppID=9

http://www.cottonyarnmarket.net/OASMTP/Compressed%20air%20in%20Textile%20Industry.pdf

http://euratex.eu/fileadmin/user_upload/images/ongoing_projects/Critical_energy_saving_points_in_clothing_industry.pdf