heliofeel - lucas meyer cosmetics

Ingredient

PASSPORT

HELIOFEEL™THE FLEXIBLE EMULSIFIER WITH A LIGHT SKIN FEEL!

Table of Content

1 “Summary”

2 “Product Benefits”

3 “Prototypes”

4 “Process & formulation advices”

1THE FLEXIBLE AND MULTI-FUNCTIONAL EMULSIFIER

Summaryheliofeel™

5 minute pitchMade of sunflower phospholipids and two natural emulsifying ingredients, Heliofeel™ is an easy-to-use O/W emulsifier to create sensorial and versatile textures. With its unique signature, Heliofeel™ is suitable for a large range of textures going from spray to cream. Heliofeel™ is especially recommended for low viscosity formulations providing a light exquisite skin feel.

Very performant, Heliofeel™ can emulsify small to high percentages (5 to 40%). It is also compatible with all kinds of oil phases and has excellent compatibilities with mineral & chemical sunscreens and pigments. This provides smooth and spreadable textures with low film residue.

Suitable for all kind of applications, this flexible ingredient can be used as a main emulsifier, a co-emulsifier or a texture enhancer to help formulators obtain a perfect texture and skin feel.

Due to phospholipids - skin-identical molecules -, Heliofeel™ is much more than an average emulsifier! Heliofeel™ brings active properties to the skin (hydrating, restructuring, soothing, etc.) and acts as a powerful delivery system which improves penetration and bioavailability of active ingredients for faster and better results.

Composed 100% of natural ingredients, Heliofeel™ can be used for natural/ «green» concept with Ecocert/Cosmos validation.

Versatility Wide range of textures:

• Sprays

• Lotions

• Creams

Natural Origin• Sunflower phospholipids &

vegetable lipids

Sensoriality Light skin feel signature:

• Easily spreadable

• Quick absorption

• Low film residue

Key Points

Technical Characteristics

• O/W emulsifier

• Emulsifies small to high % of oil

• High compatibility: - Pigments - Chemical & mineral sunscreens

• Easy-to-use

Summary Heliofeel™

2A multi-benefit provider

Product Benefitsheliofeel™

Phospholipids benefits

Performance

The uniqueness of phospholipids!Phospholipids are skin-identical molecules as they are essential constituents of the cell membranes of all living organisms that provide unique technological and physiological properties. In a topical application, phospholipids present a particular affinity with the skin (strong biocompatibility for an optimal tolerance).

CHARACTERISTICS HELIOFEEL™

INCI Name Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin

Textures Fluid / sprayable emulsions to cream emulsions

Richness Light skin feel

Appearance Light yellow pellets

Dosage % 1-6%

% of oily phase emulsified Up to 40% (for 4% of Heliofeel™)

pH 4-8

Final viscosity Achieved at T0 (None evolution after)

Hot process Yes

Cold process No

Hydration step, 20 min No

Introduction via oil phase

Yes

Introduction in aqueous phase

No

Introduction at the end of process

No

Emulsification step: aqueous phase introduced into oil phase

No

Emulsification step: oil phase introduced into aqueous phase

Yes

Oily phase Compatible with all kinds of oil phasesSpecific affinity for fatty vegetable components

Sunscreens Yes (mineral and chemical)

Pigments, pearls Yes

Electrolytes Up to 1% NaCl with addition of gums (like Xanthan) and co-emulsifiers

Alcohols Non reproducible results : to evaluate case-by-case

Glycerol esters Yes

Organic acids Yes

Preservatives No known incompatibilities

Pro

ce

ss

Co

mp

at

ibil

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s

Product Benefits Heliofeel™

As light as a featherPhospholipids provide a very recognizable skin feel defined as the “Phospholid Touch”: cool, slippery, non-greasy, non-tacky and soft.Heliofeel™ allows the formulation of a wide range of viscosities, from spray, lotions to creams. It is particularly well suited for low viscosity formulations.Heliofeel™ provides a light signature characterized by:

• Easily spreadable• Quick absorption• Low film residue • No soaping effect

Respects the skin in a natural wayBecause of its high skin affinity and biocompatibility, Heliofeel™ has a safe profile and can be used for all kinds of products, even for sensitive skin.

Composed of sunflower phospholipids and two other natural emulsifying ingredients, Heliofeel™ provides micellar O/W emulsions with a discontinuous lamellar phase around oil droplets.

Structure

Sensoriality

High tolerance

Oil droplets

Lamellar structures

Cream structure with Heliofeel™Electron microscopy (x 10 000)

Skin-friendly emulsifier for safe textures!

HigH skin tolerance

Make the formula base 100% active!The reinforcement of the skin barrier improves hydration.

Added valueHydrates skinAs skin-identical molecules, phospholipids present a strong affinity with the stratum corneum and can reinforce its barrier function in order to decrease TEWL. The polar head groups of phospholipids are also capable to bind 15 to 25 molecules of water per molecule of phospholipid, thus helping the water reserve in the skin.

Enhances the penetrationDue to their biomimetic structure, phospholipids are strong and gentle penetration enhancers. When applied, phospholipids merge with the stratum corneum to liberate active ingredients into other skin layers. Formulated with Heliofeel™, active ingredients become more efficient due to a higher bioavailable concentration.

Heliofeel™ acts as a powerful delivery system and the results are even better when the active molecule is previously entrapped in liposomes made with Pro-Lipo™ Neo showing an impressive synergistic effect.

Sta

ndar

diz

ed T

EW

L v

aria

tio

n (%

vs.

pla

ceb

o)

Stand

ardized

corneo

metry variatio

n (%

vs. placeb

o)

-25

-20

-15

-10

-5

0

TEWL VS. SKIN HYDRATION(Tewameter vs. Corneometry)

Active formula: Heliofeel™ (4%), water (94.9%), preservatives (1.1%)Placebo: water (98.9%), preservatives (1.1%)

Time (hours)2h 4h 8h

0

10

20

30

40

50

60


% a

bso

rbed

mo

lecu

les

(co

mp

ared

to

init

ial d

ose

)

0

2

4

6

DIFFUSION OF CAFFEINETHROUGH SYNTHETIC MEMBRANE AFTER 27H

(Pampa model*)

x 2x 4.8

x 14.8

A formulated in a 4% Heliofeel™ emulsion

A entrapped in liposomes (Pro-Lipo™ Neo) and added to 4% Heliofeel™ emulsion

A in waterA entrapped in liposomes from Pro-Lipo™ Neo

*Pampa model: synthetic membrane with identical skin barrier function.Correlation with full skin has been proven (R2=0.89)

A = 1.5% ca�eineHeliofeel™ emulsion = 4% Heliofeel™ + 20% sweet almond oil + water

NEWDATA!

Get better and faster results!Heliofeel™ improves active ingredient

bioavaibility for higher efficacy.

SEE MORE ON THE TECHFILEHELIOFEEL™

http://lucasmeyercosmetics.com/docs/techfile/HELIOFEEL-Techfile.pdf

Offers happiness in a jar Looking for a moment of happiness? Feel the power of phospholipids!Various techniques developed by specialists in psychology and neuroscience scientifically measured that phospholipids trigger positive emotions and provides moments of happiness upon application.

Phospholipid-based creamPlacebo

Ana

gen

/Tel

og

en r

atio

Num

ber

of

ob

serv

ed

pat

tern

s

Positive patterns Negative patterns

18

13

6

12

02468

101214161820

Facial micro-expression analysis

Never seen before

-5

0

5

10

Ana

gen

/Tel

og

en r

atio

Fun

dam

enta

l fr

eque

ncy

vari

atio

n (%

vs.

bef

ore

ap

plic

atio

n)

-3.3%

7.7%

Phospholipid-based creamPlacebo

evolution oF tHe musicality oF tHe voice

Happy facial micro-expressions as a pleasant application

Increase in pupil dilation as a high emotional arousal

Higher vocal frequencyas an enjoyable experience

Increase in electrodermal response as a high intensity emotion

Behavioral measures Physiological measures

After phospholipid-based cream application

Before application

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Ana

gen

/Tel

og

en r

atio

Pup

il d

iam

eter

(m

m)

+23%

evolution oF pupil dilation

After phospholipid-based cream application

Before application

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

Ana

gen

/Tel

og

en r

atio

Ski

n co

nduc

tanc

e (S

iem

ens)

+61%

evolution oF skin conductance

OFFER HAPPINESS IN A JAR AND...

GET CONSUMERS ADDICTED!

Source: Lie to me TV series

+23%

+61%

Added value

O�cial Supplier of HAPPINESS

Download brochure!

http://lucasmeyercosmetics.com/mailing/pdf/Lucas_Meyer_Cosmetics_Happiness_in_a_Jar-web.pdf


For all types of applications

ApplicationsDosage• O/W emulsifier: 2-6% (optimum 3-4%)• Co-emulsifier, texture enhancer: >1%

Face care Body care MakeupBaby care Men careSuncare

Hair care

SENSO-ACTIVEFunctionalIngredient

DELIVERY SYSTEM

TECHNICAL PERFORMANCE

ACTIVE PROPERTIES

HIGHSENSORIALITY

SOURCE OF HAPPINESS

Provides a wide rangeof viscosities

Brings uniquePhospholipid Touch

Moisturizes skinfor true active textures

Improves bioavailabilityof active ingredientsfor better efficacy

Triggers positive emotions &

provides happiness

Sustainable ingredient

ECO-FRIENDLY

Combination of natural origin ingredients, Heliofeel™ is easily biodegradable (>60% in 28 days) & friendly to the aquatic ecosystem (EC50>100 mg/L).

SUSTAINABLE PALM OIL DERIVATIVE

As part of its sustainable development, and committed to promote products which are managed in a socially and environmentally responsible manner, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics became certified of the RoundTable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) in 2017.

Heliofeel™ is fully RSPO certified under the Mass Balance (MB) supply chain model.

3Fully flexible textures

Prototypesheliofeel™

Prototypes Heliofeel™

TEX

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Ult

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/ S

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mul

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0.6

% E

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Mo

istu

rizi

ng B

od

y S

pra

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= 50

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- 10

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0 m

Pa.s

Sp

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Qui

ck a

bso

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on

4%

0.3

% L

ecig

el™

Sun

care

Sp

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SP

F 3

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Loti

on

η =

10 0

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- 25

00

0 m

Pa.s

Che

mic

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(S

PF

30

*): 2

0.5

%O

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: 33.

5%S

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ess

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% E

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Mo

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full

Loti

on

Loti

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= 5

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0 -

10 0

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mP

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Qui

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bso

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Lig

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kin

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4%

0.5

% t

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(g

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Reb

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Cre

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0 -

20

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0 m

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Low

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4%

1% E

cog

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My

Per

fect

Fo

und

atio

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tio

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= 15

00

0 -

30

00

0 m

Pa.

sO

il p

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: 25%

Pig

men

ts: 8

.35%

Thi

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%0

.9%

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(gum

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Day

Cre

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ream

η =

20

00

0 -

30

00

0 m

Pa.

sW

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asp

ect

So

ft s

kin

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4%

1% L

ecig

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1% E

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Ess

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H EL IO FEEL

™

L

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MEYER COSMETICS

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INGREDIENT INCI NAME %A Deionized Water

Dermofeel® PA-3*GlycerinLegicel™

WaterSodium Phytate (and) Water (and) AlcoholGlycerinSodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Lecithin

59.400.102.000.30

B Heliofeel™

Dekaben C-4

Eusolex® 2292Uvinul® N 539 TEusolex® 9020Tinosorb® SVitapherole® E-1000Dermofeel® BGC*BRB DM 350

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated LecithinPhenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) PropylparabenEthylhexyl MethoxycinnamateOctocryleneButyl MethoxydibenzoylmethaneBis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl TriazineTocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/DicaprateDimethicone

4.00

0.80

7.505.003.005.000.208.004.00

C Melitane™ GL 200Summer 2721

Glycerin (and) Water (and) Dextran (and) Acetyl Hexapeptide-1Fragrance

0.500.20

Suncare Spray SPF 30** 15.148.01 C170

Suncare Spray SPF 30** / PitchIn this formula, Heliofeel™ highlights its compatibility with sunscreens (20.5%), providing a smooth and perfectly homogenous texture. It actually provides a nice sensoriality despite a high sunscreen content reducing the well-known tackiness. The stability of the formula is enhanced with Lecigel™. This easy-to-spread SPF 30* formula hydrates, prepares, tans and protects the skin from the sun. It will also leave a very soft skin feel.

Moisturizing Body Spray / PitchThis sprayable emulsion containing 5% oil phase is achieved with Heliofeel™ (2%) as a main emulsifier and stabilized by Ecogel™. Very easy to apply, the ultra-fluid emulsion is quickly absorbed and offers a light, non-greasy & soft skin feel for an immediate hydration and high comfort.

NB: a spray is a formula containing an emulsifier supported by a stabilizer (suspending agent) that contributes to the stability of these ultra-fluid products.


Dermofeel® PA-12*WaterSodium Phytate

87.500.10

B GlycerinEcogel™

GlycerinLysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Pullulan

2.000.60

C Heliofeel™

Dub IninVitapherole® E1000

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated LecithinIsononyl IsononanoateTocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

2.000.205.000.10

D Verstatil PC* Phenoxethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol 1.00

E Exo-H™ Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment Extract 1.50

F Fragrance Fagrance 0.20

Moisturizing Body Spray 15.245.01 C167


H

EL IO F EEL™

L

UCAS MEYER COSMETICS

Passport

Morning Waterfull Lotion / PitchThis water-replenishing emulsion is formulated with Heliofeel™ as a main emulsifier in combination with Ecogel™ as a stabilizing agent. Heliofeel™ is the ideal partner for very fluid textures with quick absorption. Well hydrated the skin is prepared to receive benefits from other skin care products. Moisturizing Body Spray (2% Heliofeel™) and Morning Waterfull Lotion (3% Heliofeel™), both have a similar composition. By increasing Heliofeel™, the viscosity is increased.

Rebalancing Cream / PitchAn emulsion which highlights the specific texture and skin feel of Heliofeel™ when it is used as a main emulsifier: fluid texture with a light signature characterized by a low film residue, easily spreadable and quick absorption.


Dermofeel® PA-12*Amisol Trio™

WaterSodium PhytatePhospholipids (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (and) Glycolipids (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols

84.200.101.00

B GlycerinEcogel™


2.000.60

C Granlux® AOX-GL* Glycerin (and) Picea Abies Extract 1.00

D Heliofeel™

Dub Inin

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated LecithinIsononyl Isononanoate

3.00

5.00

E Verstatil PC* Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol 1.10

F Exo-H™

Suprem’™ WP Cotton

Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment ExtractWater (and) Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil (and) Lecithin (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (and) Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Stearate

1.00

1.00

Morning Waterfull Lotion 15.145.01 C155


Amigel®Dermofeel® PA-3*Unicert Blue 05601-J Solution 0.1%Linumine™Chlorphenesin

WaterSclerotium GumSodium Phytate (and) Water (and) AlcoholWater (and) CI 42090

Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed ExtractChlorphenesin

74.250.500.100.20

0.250.30

B Heliofeel™

Vitapherole® E-1000Dermofeel® BGC*BRB DM 350Dub IninCrodamol™ W

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated LecithinTocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/DicaprateDimethiconeIsononyl IsononanoateStearyl Heptanoate (and) Stearly Caprylate

4.00

0.204.003.004.003.00

C Hydraporine™ Betaine (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) Honey (and) Pectin

3.00

D Dermosoft® 1388* Glycerin (and) Water (and) Sodium Levulinate (and) Sodium Anisate

3.00

E Capture 3068 Fragrance 0.20

Rebalancing Cream 15.063.01 C170

My Perfect Foundation / PitchThis formula puts forward the compatibility of Heliofeel™ with pigments. Used as a main emulsifier, Heliofeel™ emulsifies 25% of oil phase and maintains a fluid and light texture even with a high percentage of pigments (8.35%). It helps improve pigment dispersion and reduces aggregation for a more homogenous rendering. This formula also puts forward its compatibility with silicones (13%). In this formula, Ecogel™ is used as a stabilizing and skin feel agent for even more softness.

Simply Balm / PitchDeveloped with a minimalist spirit (few ingredients, common ingredients, simple process), this formula is a perfect combination of Lecigel™ & Heliofeel™. While Lecigel™ emulsifies a high percentage of butter with a non-greasy skin feel, Heliofeel™ when used as a texture enhancer, brings out a creamy and cushioning feeling. This innovative texture also presents a surprising gap between the very rich aspect of the formula and the melting behavior with a light skin feel upon application.


Dermofeel® PA-3*Ecogel™

Unipure White LC 987 EMDermofeel® G10LW*Glycerin

WaterSodium Phytate (and) Water (and) AlcoholLysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) PullulanCI 77891 (and) SilicaPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate (and) Water (and) Citric AcidGlycerin

49.710.101.00

6.000.802.00

B Heliofeel™

Schercemol® SHS EsterSchercemol® 318 EsterVitapherole® E1000Cerabeil Blanche Selection

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated LecithinIsostearyl HydroxystearateIsopropyl IsostearateTocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilBeeswax

4.00

6.003.000.203.00

C Dow Corning® 9045 SiliconeElastomer BlendMirasil® DM 100

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone

8.00

5.00

D Black Covasop W 9774

Yellow Covasop W 1771

GLW55GRSP

Propylene Glycol (and) CI 77499 (and) Silica

Propylene Glycol (and) CI 77492

Iron Oxides (CI 77491) (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum

1.00

3.00

0.70

E Pro-Lipo™ NeoRiboxyl™Elix-IR™Deionized Water

Propanediol (and) LecithinRiboseWater (and) Glycerin (and) Polygonum Aviculare ExtractWater

1.291.001.002.00

F Verstatil PC*SG 35303

Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl GlycolFragrance

1.000.20

My Perfect Foundation 14.247.01 C152

H EL IO FEEL

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Dermofeel® PA-3*GlycerinChlorphenesinPhenoxyethanol

WaterSodium Phytate (and) Water (and) AlcoholGlycerinChlorphenesinPhenoxyethanol

78.400.105.000.300.80

B Lecigel™ Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Lecithin 2.00C Lipex® 102

Lanette® 22Dub IninHeliofeel™

Vitapherole® E1000

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) ButterBehenyl AlcoholIsononyl IsononanoateGlyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

5.002.005.001.00

0.20

D SG 30530 Fragrance 0.20

Simply Balm 14.072.03 C153


Light Day Cream / PitchIn this formula, Heliofeel™ creates a creamy texture when combined with thickeners (gums) but it also keeps its light signature characterized by its low film residue, the fact that it is easily spreadable and that it has a quick absorption. Most used ingredients in this formula are Ecocert compliant.

Essential DD Cream / PitchThis daily defense cream SPF 20** offers skin protection against environment-induced damages: sun (UV/IR), pollution and stress. Heliofeel™ used as the main emulsifier is the best option to formulate a supple & light texture while having a good compatibility with both physical and chemical filters. The texture is enhanced with Lecigel™ used as a viscosity adjuster and Ecogel™ used as a skin feel agent. This provides a higher spreadability counteracting the braking effects of the sunscreens.


Dermofeel® PA-3*ChlorphenesinPhenoxyethanol

WaterSodium Phytate (and) Water (and) AlcoholChlorphenesinPhenoxyethanol

64.900.100.300.80

B Satiaxane™ CX 911Viscarin® PC 209Glycerin

Xanthan GumCarrageenanGlycerin

0.400.503.00

C Lipex® 102SCB Jojoba OilSaboderm TCCFancol® CBHeliofeel™

Vitapherole® E-1000

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) ButterSimondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed OilCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideTheobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed ButterGlyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated LecithinTocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

5.001.504.005.004.00

0.20

D Exo-H™ Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment Extract 1.00

E Deionized WaterRiboxyl™

WaterRibose

3.001.00

F Accords Grapefruit 3350 Fragrance 0.30

Light Day Cream 15.103.01 C170


Dermofeel® PA-3*Tinosorb® M

WaterSodium Phytate (and) Water (and) AlcoholMethylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Water (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum

68.900.105.00

B GlycerinEcogel™


2.001.00

C Heliofeel™

Uvinul™ MC 80Dermofeel® BGC*Dermofeel® Sensolv*BRB DM 350

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin Ethylhexyl MethoxycinnamateButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/DicaprateIsoamyl LaurateDimethicone

4.00

5.002.003.003.00

D Granlux® AOX-GL*Verstatil PC*Elix-IR™Exo-P™Superox-C™

Neutrazen™

Glycerin (and) Picea Abies ExtractPhenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl ClycolWater (and) Glycerin (and) Polygonum Aviculare ExtractWater (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment ExtractGlycerin (and) Water (and) Alcohol Denat. (and) Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit ExtractWater (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Dextran (and) Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

1.001.001.000.501.000.50

E Lecigel™ Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Lecithin 1.00

Essential DD Cream 15.177.01B C152

*Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics**Theoretical value

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4Easy-to-formulate

Process &formulationadvicesheliofeel™

1. Recommended dosageHeliofeel™ is generally used between 1 and 6% and more particularly between 3 and 4%.At 4%, it allows to emulsify up to 40% oil phase.The final viscosity of the emulsion increases with the level of Heliofeel™ that is used and with the level of oil phase.

2. ProcessThe recommended process of manufacturing is the following:1. Heat the oil and water phases at 70-80°C.2. Add Heliofeel™ into the oil phase, wait until the pellets are totally melted and then mix the phase.3. Emulsify by pouring the oil phase into the aqueous phase under strong mixing (ideally with a rotor stator), to create

a sufficient shear stress. When using a VMI/Rayneri mixer, it is possible to get the emulsion with a simple propeller at the highest stirring level possible (> 1500 rpm).

4. Cool down under medium stirring. The stirring will have to be adapted according to the viscosity of the emulsion.5. Adjust the pH if necessary, between pH 4 and 8.

3. Influence of the oil phaseHeliofeel™ can emulsify all kinds of oil phases with a better affinity when using vegetable lipids.

4. Organoleptic characteristics of the emulsionHeliofeel™ allows the formulation of fluid to cream textures (with gelling agents or thickeners) with a light skin feel, easily spreadable and non-whitening after application. The final viscosity will depend on the viscosity and the polarity of the selected oil but the following points are also to take into consideration:• It is possible to develop sprayable emulsions at a low to medium percentage of oil phase.• An emulsion containing 20% oil (liquid at room temperature) emulsified with 4% Heliofeel™ will have the consistency

of a fluid lotion. • To obtain an emulsion with a higher viscosity such as a cream, it is necessary to add one or more consistency agents

and/or gellifying agents. The increase in the percentage of Heliofeel™ also allows the increase of the consistency.The final emulsions are white to off-white, depending on the quality and quantity of the oil phase.

5. CompatibilitiesHeliofeel™ has been tested in the presence of various qualities of oils, sunscreens (chemicals and physicals) and pigments and did not show any specific incompatibility.

To prevent or limit the oxidation of phospholipids contained in Heliofeel™ (impacts well-known on the color, odor of the formulated product), the addition of a chelating agent and antioxidant is recommended.

The addition of aqueous gellifying agent is also recommended.

It is possible to use Heliofeel™ with a moderate amount of electrolytes (for example organic acids) along with ingredients that will have an impact on the emulsion’s structure (caprylyl glycol for example). The structure of the emulsion could be reinforced (with a gelling agent or a thickener) to ensure a good stability at high temperature.

The stability of the emulsion will depend on the composition of the formula as well as the percentage of destabilizing ingredient added.

Heliofeel™ should preferably be used at a pH between 4 and 8 to keep acceptable organoleptic characteristics of the product.

Outside the recommended range of pH, the stability and the aspect of the formula should be evaluated case by case by the formulator.

Process & formulation advices Heliofeel™

Description

FORMULATION WITH HELIOFEEL™

Based on hydrogenated sunflower lecithin, Heliofeel™ is a natural emulsifying system for the formulation of O/W emulsions.Being versatile, it allows the formulation of a wide range of textures (spray, lotion, cream) with a light skin feel.Its HLB is around 10 - 11.It is in the form of yellowish to light brown pellets with a characteristic odor.

H EL IO FEEL

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MEYER COSMETICS

Passport

6. Summary

CHARACTERISTICS HELIOFEEL™

Dosage Emulsifier : 2 - 6%Co-emulsifier : >1%

HLB Around 10-11

Aspect Yellow to light brown pellets

Introduction Into the oil phase at hot temperature (70-80°C)

Texture Spray to cream

Recommended range of pH 4 to 8

FORMULATION ADVICES

Compatibilities Sunscreens (chemical & physical)

Any oils of all nature (esters, vegetable oils, mineral oils, silicones)

Active ingredients

Plant extracts

Pigments & pearlescent agents

A loss of viscosity or stability could be due to a high concentration of:

Electrolytes

Ingredients destabilizing the structure of the emulsion (PEG, caprylyl glycol…)

Alcohol

The stability of the emulsion could be reinforced by the addition of:

Gelling system

Thickeners (fatty alcohol, wax…)

The viscosity can be increased by the:

Addition of thickeners (fatty alcohol, butter, wax…)

Increase of the percentage of oil phase

Increase in the percentage of Heliofeel™

Oil phase Up to 40%

According to the percentage of the oil phase and the nature of the oils used, it could be necessary to reinforce the emulsion with the addition of a co-emulsifier or thickeners

How to formulate?

Watch the video here!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsQ6v97YY9A

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsQ6v97YY9A

Heliofeel™ is the flexible multifunctional emulsifierdesigned for light sensoriality!

Natural O/W phospholipid-based emulsifier

High flexibility:• Variety of textures: spray, lotion, cream

• Emulsifies large variety of oils (from 5% to 40%)• Variety of applications: skin care, sun care, makeup

Excellent compatibilities with:• Pigments

• Chemical & mineral sunscreens

Light skin feel for delightful sensoriality

heliofeel - lucas meyer cosmetics

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