lanablue - lucas meyer cosmetics

LANABLUETM

Active ingredients

Natural Retinoid Alternative

Blue-green algae extract-Smoothes the skin and reduces wrinkles

Technical File

Technical File Lanablue®

TECHNICAL FILE

LANABLUE™

TABLE OF CONTENT

SUMMARY ........................................................................................................................................................................ 2

INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................................................................ 3

KLAMATH LAKE .................................................................................................................................................................... 3 APHANIZOMENON FLOS-AQUAE VAR.FLOS AQUAE: A NEWLY-DISCOVERED BLUE-GREEN ALGAE EXTRACT ................. 4 RECENTLY RECOGNIZED FOOD AND MEDICAL APPLICATIONS .......................................................................................... 7 THE SCIENCE BEHIND LANABLUE

™ .................................................................................................................................... 8 RETINOID VS RETINOID-LIKE ........................................................................................................................................... 10

EFFICACY STUDIES .......................................................................................................................................................... 12

REGULATION OF EPIDERMAL DIFFERENTIATION BY GENE EXPRESSION PROFILE ON HUMAN SKIN EXPLANTS ............ 13 EFFECT OF LANABLUE

™ ON THE EPIDERMAL DIFFERENTIATION MARKERS ON HUMAN SKIN EXPLANTS ...................... 17

CLINICAL STUDY .............................................................................................................................................................. 18

EVALUATION OF THE SMOOTHING EFFECT ....................................................................................................................... 19

COSMETIC APPLICATIONS ............................................................................................................................................... 22

RECOMMENDATION OF USE ........................................................................................................................................... 22

FORMULATIONS ............................................................................................................................................................. 23

ANTI-AGING CREAM .......................................................................................................................................................... 24 ANTI-AGING CREAM (2) ................................................................................................................................................... 25

REFERENCES ................................................................................................................................................................... 26


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Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Place de la Cité, Tour de la Cité, 2600 boul. Laurier, #900, Québec (Québec) G1V 4W2 Canada www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com

SUMMARY

INCI NAME

CAS

EINECS

INCI Name: Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate (1°) (and) Aqua (2°) (and) Aphanizomenon Flos-aquae Extract (3°) CAS: (1°) 68425-17-2, (2°) 7732-18-5, (3°) - EINECS: (1°) 270-337-8, (2°) 231-791-2, (3°) -

ORIGIN Fresh water of a blue-green algae extract from the Cascadia region

COSMETIC

PROPERTIES Retinoid-like activity without the side effects

SKIN BENEFITS /

POTENTIAL CLAIMS Reduces the appearance of wrinkles

Smoothes the skin

APPLICATIONS

Anti-aging skin care

SPA

Anti-wrinkle

Smoothing care

Men care

Natural Retinoid alternative

Strech marks

Cosmeceutical

RECOMMENDED

DOSAGE 1 to 5%

PH RANGE 5 - 7

INCORPORATION Preferably at the end of the formulation process, at a temperature of 35°/40°C

INCOMPATIBILITIES Unknown

http://www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com/


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INTRODUCTION

Klamath Lake

Klamath Lake is a basin covering 615 km2, with an average depth ranging from 110 to 120 cm. It is permanently fed

by rivers and waterfalls coming from the melting snow and glaciers of the mountains in the volcanic Cascade Range. This pure water is enriched by water percolating from Crater Lake, which is a very extraordinary geology. The situation has created water with outstanding mineral wealth. Added to this mineral quality, the thick layer of sediments bestow on Klamath Lake its highly unique nutritional properties.

A very special water source

Geographical situation

A stunning geological formation

The volcanic Cascade Range is the result of the impact of tectonic plates. In the west of the United States, the Pacific Ocean plate (Juan de Fuca) passes under the North American continental plate in a process called subduction. The constituent rocks of the oceanic plates, subjected to high pressure and temperature, melt and rise to the surface of the continent forming a gigantic volcanic chain: the Cascade Range (including Mount St-Helens and Mount Baker).

About 6,600 years ago, the rising lava under Mount Mazama, which was 3 500 m high, met a water table to create a highly explosive mixture. Mount Mazama was completely destroyed and reduced to ashes. In its place, we now find a volcanic lake, Crater Lake, with a depth of one kilometer (the deepest lake on the North American continent). In 1902, President Theodore Roosevelt declared Crater Lake and its environment to be a National Park.



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A protected environment

With more than nine hundred specimens of Bald-headed Eagle, mythical symbol of the United States, Klamath Lake is the main habitat of this protected species. Pollution and pesticides are in fact destroying the Bald-headed Eagle's ability to metabolize calcium. Their bones become fragile and the eggs are crushed during brooding, thus killing the embryos. The presence of this species here well demonstrates the ecological quality of this nature reserve.

The Indian legend of a Magical place

Klamath Lake bears the name of the Modoc Indian tribe who lived around the lake. The lake is also called Medicine Lake, the Shield of the Volcano or the Sleeping Monster. The Klamath Indians say that the water of the Lake has the power to confer shamanistic powers on wise men or medicine men who come there to fast and to bathe.

The legends of the Oregon Indians say that the evil God of Fire lived in Mount Mazama and that the good God of Snow lived in Mount Shasta One day, the two gods started to fight. After a long and rough battle, the God of Fire was defeated and decapitated. Since then, the enormous crater of Crater Lake disfigures the land forever as the sign of his defeat

Aphanizomenon flos-aquae var.flos aquae: a newly-discovered blue-green algae extract

Far from all industrial pollution in the amazing biotope of Klamath Lake lives a blue micro-alga Aphanizomenon flosaquae var. flos-aquae, which means "invisible living flower". This alga fixes the atmospheric nitrogen and helps maintain the unique protected ecosystem of Klamath Lake.

Its place in evolution

Aphanizomenon flos-aquae var. flos-aquae is a prokaryote organism, a eubacterium of the "Algae" group. The algae in this group are classified according to the color of their main pigment. Endowed with a blue-green pigment called phycocyanin, Aphanizomenon flos-aquae var. flos-aquae belong to the Cyanobacteria class. This division has only one class, the Cyanophytes. Within this class, there are five orders including the Nostocals, to which belongs the Aphanizomenon flos-aquae var. flos-aquae.

The role of this blue-green alga has been vital in the evolution of species. This alga appeared around 3.5 billion years ago and is the first photosynthetic oxygen-producing organism. It is the creator of atmospheric oxygen, which is essential for all species.

Harvesting and preparation

Aphanizomenon flos-aquae var. flos-aquae is not made by man, but it is harvested. During the period June to November, the density of nutrients in the water of Klamath Lake allows the Aphanizomenon algae to grow abundantly. In full harvesting time, it is estimated that the Lake contains approximately 7,000 tons of algae with the possibility of reproducing itself within 24 hours. The Klamath Lake is indeed a rare ecosystem to be able to support such a growth of algae.



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Harvesting the blue micro-algae: a unique process The blue micro-alga of Klamath Lake is harvested in the deepest waters of the lake during the period of algae efflorescence. The small platforms of the harvesters cross the lake repeatedly. They have a rotating rack that lifts the algae from the surface of the water and takes it to conveyors. (1) The conveyors eliminate most of the water. The alga is transported to a large platform (800 m

2) and is slowly

pumped through a tube and a heat exchanger, which brings the extract of algae to a temperature of 5°C. Then the alga is filtered by centrifuging on a sifter in order to eliminate various remnants and species of undesirable algae. (2) The concentrates of algae obtained are refrigerated so they can be transported to a drying unit. This unit uses a patented convection-evaporation process called “Refractance Window™”. (3 and 4) This technique ensures that the product is not damaged and keeps its biological qualities.

Characteristics of the blue-green alga after treatment

Appearance : dark green

Smell : chlorophyll

Density : 0.2 to 0.6 mg/ml

Water content < 7%

Arsenic, mercury, lead, cadmium : undetectable



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Chemical composition

The chemical composition of the blue micro-alga has been studied very thoroughly. This research has revealed its nutritional wealth.

Proteins

The total protein content is 60 to 70%. What makes this micro-alga interesting is its amino acid composition since it contains all the amino acids. The essential amino acids represent 46.40% of all the free amino acids contained in Aphanizomenon flos-aquae var. flos-aquae.

Their proportions are as follows:

Amino acids Aphanizomenon flos-aquae var. flos-aquae (%)

Content (g/100 g)

Requirement of an adult (ANC 2000)

Threonine 13.08 3.38 8.50

Valine 13.89 3.59 10.50

Methionine + 5.22 1.05+0.3 7.50

Cysteine

Isoleucine 12.88 3.33 11.50

Leucine 19.31 4.99 19.50

Phenylalanine + 17.22 2.14+2.04 19.50

Tyrosine

Lysine 12.02 3.1 15.00

Histidine 3.60 0.93 6.00

Tryptophane 2.79 0.72 3.00

Lipids

The lipid content is 5 to 7% of which 50% are polyunsaturated fatty acids. Compared with the dry weight, Aphanizomenon flos-aquae var. flos-aquae contain 1.4% of linolenic acid and 0.46% of linoleic acid.

Carbohydrates

Carbohydrates represent 20 to 30% (m/m) : heteroside complexes and lipopolysaccharides.

Pigments

Phycocyanins, phycobilin, chlorophylls, xanthophyll, beta-carotene.



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An outstanding vitamin profile

Vitamin Concentration as a percentage Measuring unit

Vitamin A 28 457.52 IU

Vitamin E 29.81 IU

Vitamin C 1 mg

Thiamine = Vit B1 3.01 mg

Riboflavin = vit B2 3.45 mg

Pyridoxine = vit B6 0.86 mg

Folic acid = vit B12 361 µg

Pantothenic acid 0.71 µg

Biotine 0.0296 mg

Choline 98.5 mg

Niacrin 8066 mg

Mineral and trace elements

Aphanizomenon flos-aquae var. flos-aquae contains a large variety of minerals and trace elements.

Minerals content/100 g RNI 2000

Chromium 64 µg 55-65 µg

Copper 330 µg 1.5-2 µg

Manganese 272 µg 2-3 µg

Molybdenum 2.97 µg 30-50 µg

Iron 150 mg 10 mg

Recently recognized food and medical applications

The wealth and diversity of its chemical composition has allowed it to be used as a food complement for physical well-being. Its composition of polyunsaturated essential fatty acids is of real importance in regulating the metabolism of lipids. Micro-algae improve digestive assimilation by increasing the concentration of certain digestive enzymes. Recent research shows that its consumption increases children's capacity for intellectual concentration. In general, the consumption of micro-algae helps to maintain the state of well being, particularly when the body is unsettled by physiological causes. It reinforces the immune system and exercises a biomodulating action and it possesses anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties.



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Cosmetic action

The biochemical composition of blue micro-algae assures its place in the world of cosmetics. Blue-green algae have powerful cosmetics properties due to their richness in amino acids and trace elements. Especially B1 and B2, which encourage microcirculation and oxygenation of the tissues.

Rich in amino acids:

Lysine and Proline, essential for the synthesis of collagen.

Methionine and Cysteine, which help in the synthesis of numerous proteins of the connective tissue for maximal effect on restructuring wounded tissue or aging tissue.

Serine, vital for the synthesis of phospholipids of the cell walls. It is basically because of its rich composition that Lucas Meyer Cosmetics decided to develop a cosmetic active ingredient from this amazing blue-green alga, called Lanablue

™.

More than these well known properties, Lanablue

™ offers new anti-aging activities, never demonstrated in

cosmetics until Lucas Meyer Cosmetics study. The exceptional origin of this unique micro-alga gives us a new natural anti-aging active ingredient.

The science behind Lanablue™

Epidermal differentiation

To understand the action of Lanablue™

, we have to remember the process of epidermal differentiation. The human epidermis is a stratified keratinized epithelium composed of various cellular layers, which form the Bruch's membrane near the surface: the basal layer, the stratum spinosum, the stratum granulosum and stratum corneum. The keratinocytes differentiate and migrate in approximately 28 days, from the Bruch's membrane towards the surface where they flake away (the natural desquamation process).

Epidermal differentiation is a genetically programmed process

Structural changes are seen under the microscope. These changes are accompanied by metabolic changes.



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Keratohyalin granules appear within the stratum granulosum. During transformation from the stratum granulosum to the stratum corneum, the cytoplasmic organelles disappear and the keratohyalin granules spread. The precursors of the keratinous envelope, which will surround the corneocytes, progressively start to appear. The keratinous envelope under the cytoplasmic membrane comes from the establishment of several insoluble precursors, such as loricrin, or soluble precursors, such as involucrin.

The differentiation molecules Involucrin and filaggrin are markers of cell differentiation and both proteins are expressed in the outermost layers of the epidermis The molecule of keratohyalin granules (KH) of the stratum granulosum (CG) is Profilaggrin. In the stratum corneum (CC), the Profilaggrin is transformed into Filaggrin to form the interstitial cytoplasmic substance of the corneocytes.

Filaggrin plays a vital role in aggregation and alignment of keratin filaments in keratinocytes, controls the change in cellular shape that occurs as keratinocytes mature to cornified cells, and ultimately contribute to maintain skin hydration once proteolysed to liberate natural moisturizing factors. The keratinous envelope contains very many molecules. Among the best known and the most studied are Loricrin and Involucrin. All these molecules form the keratinous envelope combining by Cystine bridges and above all by Ne (g glutamine) lysine bonds thanks to the Transglutaminases TG k/e whose catalytic action is only seen in the stratum granulosum.

Loricrin is specific of epithelia malphigiens. Loricrin alone represent 70% of the molecules and is therefore by far the most abundant, whereas Involucrin only represents 2%.

The code gene for Loricrin is found in the chromosome 1 in 1q21, like the code genes for Involucrin and the SPRs. All these proteins possess homologous terminal regions, very rich in glutamine and lysine, allowing the formation of the lysine bonds Ne (g glutamine) under the effect of the transglutaminases.

Certain molecules can be considered as markers of the corneocyte differentiation like Loricrin and Filaggrin, which appear when the stratum corneum is formed.

Keratohyalin granule - Detail



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Calgranulin A and Calgranulin B, Psoriasin: markers of the basal proliferation

The cellular differentiation of keratinocytes depends closely on calcium. There is an increasing calcium gradient from the basal layers towards the outer layers of the epidermis. Calgranulins A and B and Psoriasin are the calcium bonding proteins.

The genes of Calgranulin A are very much evident during the repair process.

This suggests a pivotal role in these mechanisms, although the role has not yet been completely explained. These molecules may have a role in regulating cell migration, in proliferation or in differentiation. These proteins are in the majority in the cytoplasm of certain cells (keratinocytes but also fibroblasts and neutrophilic leukocytes) when at rest, but migrate towards the cytoskeleton where they bond with the Vimentin and the plasma membrane under the effect of stimulation and an increased concentration of free intracellular calcium.

Calgranulins A and B fix arachidonic acid

In the cytosol of the keratinocytes, 5% of the Calgranulins are in a complex form with arachidonic acid. These complexes can migrate to the plasma membrane and may have a role in the transport and the depositing of fatty acid. The free proteins do not bind the unsaturated fatty acids because the formation of the complexes is dependent on the rise in concentration of free intracellular calcium (Kerkoff and coll. 1999). They are also described as markers of inflammation (Fosch and coll. 1999). Psoriasine or S100 A7 was discovered by the increase in its expression among patients affected with psoriasis (Celis and coll. 1990).

Calgranulins belong to the S100 protein family (calcium-binding protein).

Calgranulins A and B are called also MRP8 and MRP14 (Myeloid Related Protein). Calgranulins A, B and Psoriasin belong to the S100 protein family (respectively S100 A8, S100 A9 and S100 A7). They have the ability to bind two calcium molecules, which count 19 members. The code genes for the S100 human proteins are all situated in the chromosome 1. Calgranulin A is the biggest of the S100. It has an elongation of around twenty amino acids at its C-terminal part, which gives it a weight of 14 kDa, for 114 amino acids, whereas Calgranulin B only possesses 93 residues for a weight of 10kDa, but an apparent electrophoretic migration of 8 kDa. Their expression goes together with the proliferation of keratinocytes. They are considered as markers of the proliferation of keratinocytes in the supra-basal layers.

Retinoid vs retinoid-like

Retinoids and aging

Retinoids contain Vitamin A (retinol) and its metabolites. They regulate the epidermal differentiation and thus act on the signs of aging with improvement in three specific signs: roughness, superficial wrinkles and pigmentation problems.

They act on the cornification process by eliminating the manifestation of transglutaminase type 1;

Retinoic acid induces the keratinocyte production of TGF-Beta, which stimulates the production of collagen and fibronectin by the fibroblasts;

In vitro, retinoic acid is an inhibitor of MMP1 collagenase and elastase/gelatinase A (MMP2) by stimulating the synthesis of TIMP. Elastin is improved from a histological point of view.

Side effects are first the appearance of irritation and dry skin, and secondly the intolerance. Unfortunately, side effects and intolerance are seen with retinoid usage.



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Usage of retinoid has a direct impact on specific skin gene. These genes can be up-regulated or down-regulated by retinoid. The table below shows the effect of retinoid on gene expressions. This gene expression profile will be compared to the one obtained with Lanablue

™ and consequently we will be

able to notice similar pattern in the expression of certain genes.

Genic expression and retinoids

François-Xavier Bernard et al, Comparison of gene expression profiles in human keratinocyte mono-layer cultures, reconstituted epidermis and

normal human skin; transcriptional effects of retinoid treatments in reconstituted human epidermis, Experimental Dermatology 2002, 11, 59-74

This study shows that retinoids modulate the manifestation of the genes with:

A decrease in the expression of the genes of Filaggrin and Loricrin and Calmodulin.

An increase in the expression of the genes of Calgranulins A and B.



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EFFICACY STUDIES

Exo-T™ Infrared spectrum



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Regulation of epidermal differentiation by gene expression profile on human skin explants

Objectives

Study the effects of Lanablue™

on the manifestation of the markers of differentiation like Loricrin, Filaggrin, Calgranulin, Psoriasin, MMP3 and TIMP1.

PROTOCOL GENOMIC STUDY : cDNA microarrays

The cutaneous physiology study is now possible because there are new molecular biology tools available like the cDNA micro-array. In the pharmacological industry, the common use of this technique has allowed the development of many new medicines. A quick screening of new molecules shows their potential efficacy. It is also very hepful in fundamental research to define the action of molecules in specific tissue or organs. In dermatology, this model is used to understand the expression of specific genes in reconstructed epidermis or skin explant. Today, commercial chips contain more than 600 genes specific of the cutaneous system. Method

The study is performed on human skin explants.

The 2% Lanablue™

cream is applied twice a day for two days at the dose of 5 mg/cm2 on 20 cm2.

The analysis of the manifestation of the genes by cDNA array was performed on a chip containing 600 genes selected for their importance in the cutaneous physiology.

The RNA messengers are extracted and determined by molecular hybridation with marked cDNA

The reference gene is Actin

Quantification is performed by fluorescence of the complementary DNA synthesized from the RNA messengers.

DNA chips (microarrays) are used for measuring the levels of expression and the number of copies of DNA in the biological samples. The abundance ratios for nucleic acids are obtained from regular network images of spots containing the target genetic material on which the samples marked by fluorescence have been hybridated. The DNA chips, or biochips, are miniaturized analysis tools that enable us to simultaneously study the manifestation of thousand of genes and perform biological observations at the scale of the complete genome of an organism.

The technology of biochips on glass slides using fluorescence is commonly called "DNA microarrays". Biochips on glass slides

A DNA biochip consists of a set of points or "spots" containing fragments of DNA with a specific sequence, immobilized on the surface of a solid support following a fixed arrangement (array). Image of a chip of the "microarray" type. Each "spot" consists of an amplification product deposited by PCR of the code portion (ORF) of a gene. The deposit is placed automatically (figure 2) on microscope slides covered with a coating of polylysine, making it possible to fix the strands of DNA thanks to electrostatic interactions. The slides are then treated, principally to stop the charges of polylysine remaining free and to denature the strands of fixed DNA.

The amplification product deposited by PCR is done automatically.



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Scanning and acquiring the image

After hybridation, the chip is revealed by a scanner equipped with lasers, which excite the fluorochrome molecules and allow us to detect the signal emitted by each spot using a confocal microscope. A computer-generated image is acquired for the sample and a software program superimposes the two images and so that the computerized data can be extracted.

How a DNA chip is made

Hybridation



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RESULTS

The expression profile obtained

PCR Results for Cell Proliferation/Differentiation Markers



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CONCLUSION

This genomic study shows the following:

Lanablue™

increases the manifestation of the markers of proliferation of the following basal keratinocyte :

o Calgranulins A and B and Psoriasin

Lanablue™

decreases the expression of the markers of corneocyte differentiation :

o Filaggrin o Loricrin

Lanablue™

regulates the integrity of the extracellular structure :

o TIPM1

Lanablue™

like retinoids, decreases the manifestation of the following cell differentiation markers:

o Filaggrin o Loricrin o CLSP

Lanablue™ regulates skin renewal, has a similar gene expression profile to

retinoid, thus confirming its role as a natural alternative to retinoid



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Effect of Lanablue™ on the epidermal differentiation markers on human skin explants

Objectives

Study the effects of Lanablue™

on different markers on skin explants.

PROTOCOL

Method:

Immunological marking on a skin explants.

The skin explants are placed in a nutritious environment and incubated at 37°C for 24 hours.

The explants are then treated for 48 hours with a solution containing 3% Lanablue™

.

RESULTS

The marking shows a distinct decrease in the expression of the two cornification markers: Loricrin and Filaggrin. Lanablue

™ helps modulate the corneocyte differentiation and decrease the transformation of the granulocytes into

corneocytes.

Lanablue™ regulates epidermal differentiation for a better skin regeneration



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CLINICAL STUDY



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Evaluation of the smoothing effect

Objectives

Study the clinical efficacy of Lanablue™

on wrinkle reduction.

PROTOCOL Panel tested

The test is performed on a panel of forty women aged between 25 and 40 years. Test conditions

The prints are made on day zero (D0) then at the end of 21 days of treatment (D21). Test products

Lanablue™

cream 3% Method

Laser profilometry of crow's-foot wrinkles. Silicone imprints are made of the crow's-foot wrinkles. The three dimensions of the wrinkles are evaluated by measuring the average depth, the complexity and the quantity of cutaneous relief. Parameters analyzed

Complexity: represents the roughness of the cutaneous microrelief combining the number and depth of the wrinkles. A decrease in the complexity induces a smoothing effect.

The average depth of the microrelief: Similarly, a decrease in this characteristic gives a smoothing effect.

Isotropy: shows the direction of the furrows in the microrelief. On young skin, there is little isotropy, and no particular direction, whereas wrinkles accentuate a particular direction of the furrows. A decrease in isotropy represents a smoothing effect. Consumer Questionnaire

The questionnaire sent to consumers was in two parts providing complementary information: On the one hand, open-ended questions, promoting positive or negative spontaneous comments, underlining the product's principal characteristics. On the other hand, pre-coded questions, intended to assess the following effects: smoothing and anti-aging.

RESULTS Laser profilometry



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Visualization of the smoothing effect

Imprint on Day 0 Imprint on Day 21

3-D representation of the depth of the wrinkles

Visualization of the isotropy

Day 0 Day 21

After 21 days of treatment with a cream containing 3% Lanablue™

, the analysis shows:

A decrease in complexity;

A decrease in the average depth of the micro-relief; and

A decrease in isotropy.



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Consumer Evaluation

The cream containing Lanablue

™ was appreciated by 95% of consumers.

CONCLUSION

This clinical study demonstrates the smoothing effect of Lanablue™

after only 21 days of application. No adverse events or side effect were noticed, proving that Lanablue

™ is a good and safe natural alternative to retinoids.

Lanablue™ smoothes the skin for a younger and healthier appearance



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COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

Daily Anti-Aging Skin Care

SPA

Anti-wrinkle

Smoothing care

Men care

Natural Retinoid alternative

Strech marks

Cosmeceutical

RECOMMENDATION OF USE

Lanablue™

should be incorporated at the end of the formulation process, at a temperature of 30-35°C

Recommended dosage: 1 to 5 %



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FORMULATIONS



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Anti-aging cream

PHASE INCI NAME (or LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS commercial name) % P/P

A1 Cetyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-75 stearate 4.00

(and) Ceteth-20 (and) Steareth-20

A2 Mineral oil (and) Lanolin alcohol 5.70

A3 Isopropyl lanolate 2.00

A4 Mineral oil (and) Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel oil 2.00

(and) Calendula officinalis flower extract

A5 LNST™ 98 1.00

B1 Demineralized water QSP 100

B2 Carbomer (2 % aqueous solution) 10.00

B3 Red 33 (10 % aqueous solution) 1.60

B4 Blue 1 (10 % aqueous solution) 0.10

C1 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) cyclohexasiloxane 6.00

D1 Demineralized water 5.00

D2 Triethanolamine 0.20

E1 Phenoxyethanol (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben 0.50

E2 Glycerin (12) 4.00

F1 Aluminium starch octenyl succinate 4.00

G1 Lanablue™

2.00

H1 Fragrance 0.30

Procedure

A4 ➔ A1 A2 A3 75 °C

A5 ➔ A1 A2 A3 75 °C

A 75 °C ➔ B 75 °C

C ➔ AB 70 C°

D ➔ ABC 65°C

E ➔ ABCD 60°C

F,G then H ➔ the cream

Stability

1 month at 50 °C 1 month at 4 °C 1 month in the light

pH

5.90

Viscosity

Brookfield RVT 6, speed 1 : 600000cps



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Anti-aging cream (2)

PHASE INGREDIENT %W/W

A Finsolv TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)1 3.0

M.O.D (Octyldodecyl Myristate)

2 2.0

Cosmacol EMI (Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate)

3 2.0

Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 2.0

dl-α-Tocopherol (Tocopherol) 0.1

Antioxydant (…) q.s.

Aristoflex AVC (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer)4 1.0

Carbopol ETD 2020 (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) 5 0.2

Shea Butter (Shea Butter / Butyrospermum Parkii) 2.0

Dow Corning 9041 (Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer)6 1.5

PROTELAN ENS (Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Sodium

Lauroyl Glutamate)7

4.0

B Water (Aqua (Water)) up to 100

EDTA (Tetrasodium EDTA) 0.05

NaOH (45%) (Sodium Hydroxide) 0.15

C Lanablue

™ (Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate (1°) (and) Aqua (2°) (and)

Aphanizomenon Flos-aquae Extract (3°))8

1.0

Drieline 1S (Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate (and) Yeast Extract)8 1.0

Hydralphatine Asia (Glycerin (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Hydrogenated

Starch Hydrolysate (and) Panthenol (and) Bambusa Vulgaris Extract (and)

Nelumbo Nucifera Extract (and) Nymphaea Alba Root Extract)8

1.0

MDI Complex (glycosaminoglycans)8 1.0

Canadian Willowherb 5C (Epilobium Angustifolium Extract)8 1.0

Aloe Barbadensis Concentrate gel 10 :1 (Aloe Barbadensis) 1.0

Merquat 3330 (Polyquaternium-39)9 0.5

-Bisabolol (-Bisabolol) 0.05

Perfume (Parfum (Fragrance)) 0.2

Preservative q.s.

Our raw material suppliers:

(1)www.finetexinc.com (2)www.gattefosse.com (3)www.sasol.com (4) www.fun.clariant.com

(5)www.carbopol.com (6)www.dowcorning.com (7)www.zsm.com (8)www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com

(9)www.nalco.com/cosmetics

Procedure Part A): Mix the above mentioned oil components with Aristoflex AVC and Carbopol ETD 2020 to a homogeneous dispersion. Then add shea butter, Dow Corning 9041 and PROTELAN ENS. Heat up to approx. 70°C. Part B): Heat up to approx. 70°C. Add part B) to part A) and homogenize directly. Cool down to approx. 35°C, add part C) and stir to homogeneity. Adjust the pH value to approx. 7.0 and homogenize again. and Glyceryl Monostearate. Heat up the mixture to approx. 70°C. Part B): Heat up to approx. 70°C. Add part B) to part A) and homogenize directly. Cool down to approx. 35°C, add part C) and stir to homogeneity. Adjust the pH value to approx. 7.0 and homogenize again.


http://www.finetexinc.com/

http://www.gattefosse.com/

http://www.sasol.com/

http://www.fun.clariant.com/

http://www.dowcorning.com/



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REFERENCES

BROWN LJ ET AL, (1994) Retinoic acid suppression of loricrin expression in reconstituted human skin cultured at the

liquid-air interface., J Invest Dermatol 1994 Jun;102(6):886-90

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