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On the Move with MarchéModerneStar culinary couple Amelia and Florent Marneau create dishes filled with alluring tastesand textures, well-thought-out delights that please eye and palate—now served in abeautiful new setting.

September 22, 2017 Cathy Thomas 0 Comments

When the news hit that Amelia and Florent Marneau were uprootingtheir highly successful Marché Moderne restaurant from South CoastPlaza to move to Crystal Cove Shopping Center, I was puzzled. Whychange the site of this much-acclaimed market-inspired Frenchbistro?Amelia Marneau, executive pastry chef, told me she and her husbandwanted a change. Something new. Something fresh. Walking throughthe 4,200-square-foot restaurant a few days before the recentopening, I grasped their meaning.

Light flooded through the windows, many of which welcomed ocean

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breezes through bi-folding openings. The new spot has 25 more seatsthan the previous, and the tables are farther apart making it feel morespacious. An 11-seat bar shows off a gray quartzite countertop and asnazzy Cruvinet wine dispenser featuring a broad selection of Frenchand California wines. Walls are Provencal-inspired stone, and thecolor theme is a mixed palette of neutral tones.

The glassed kitchen is the centerpiece with its gleaming white tile andpristine marble, showcasing the culinary action that surrounds theFrench Montague Kitchen Suite’s stoves. Florent Marneau, executivechef, says the setup allows chefs to detail every dish. “It’s like afinishing station where you can filter all details,” he said.

Up front, just inside the glass partition, a counter houses cold dishesthat are ready for service and an inviting selection of charcuterie,including many that will be cut in the hefty Berkel slicer. Thenighttime view of the busy workings inside the exhibition kitchen ispositioned and illuminated in a way that its beauty can be seen byonlookers even in the parking lot.

As the project progressed, Marché fans became increasinglyimpatient; some even pressed their noses against the glass, flailingtheir arms to request the doors be opened. One eager enthusiastloudly revved the engine of his Harley motorcycle at the kitchen’sbackdoor; the racket kept up until someone opened the door. Thefellow voiced his concern that coq au vin would still be on the menu.He got that assurance and was on his way. (Certain dishes will remainindefinitely, Marché classics such as that wine-braised chicken dishand Amelia’s Chopped Salad.)

Chef Florent Marneau and chefs de cuisine

The Marneaus wanted everything to be perfect before they opened.They had a hiatus of seven months between closing and opening thatincluded research in San Francisco and Paris.

“The bistro Allard from (Alain) Ducasse is so good, yet simple and sofresh,” Florent said about the Paris restaurant. “And I think thatl’Arpege is the best Michelin star in Paris, not just because of the star.… The creativity there is insane, not complicated, but just amazing.”During the months off spent planning, designing and menudeveloping, the couple kept key employees on the payroll, includingchefs des cuisines Jeremy Correia and Auturo Castillo, plus GeneralManager Nadine Hotong and supervisor Tony Guzman. Maintainingtheir staff, something most restaurants struggle with, seems to bepart of their success. Building loyalty is crucial to maintainconsistency and as much as 70 percent of other staff have returned.

With perfection in mind, they are starting out slowly, accepting alimited number of reservations. The four-page menu offers well-loved dishes as well as many new selections. A quick look-throughsparks hunger and makes decisions difficult. Everything soundsincredibly delicious. Highly skilled and passionate about creatinginnovative dishes filled with alluring tastes and textures, they preparebalanced, well-thought-out dishes that please the eye and palate.

Many dishes are categorized as “small plates.” Florent wanted to offersmaller portions to give guests the opportunity to sample refined farefor a lower price. The wild Spanish octopus served with chorizoemulsion, potatoes, celery, lemon, and the smoky flavor of Espelettepepper is $17 (you won’t find better octopus anywhere). Foie gras andchestnut-filled ravioli are served adrift in duck stock along withcelery root confit for $21 (the stock is so deeply flavored, it made mehum). And yes, a beautifully cooked New Zealand langoustine restsatop sea urchin risotto that’s adorned with lacey green sea beans for$25 (the full flavors balanced perfectly).

In a different price category, my husband had the sautéed foie gras ontoasted onion brioche with Calvados, diced apples, and pears, plus atopping of balsamic croustillant (lightly acidic flakey balsamicvinegar curls that Florent crafted through a magical process ofdehydration). My sated mate said that it was worth every cent of $33.

Displayed in an enormous ice-filled pewter-hued bowl behind thekitchen’s front window, whole fish tempt guests with their super-fresh appeal.

“The whole market fish are selling like crazy,” Florent said. “We sold40 whole bass in the first four services.”Also included on the menu is a section titled “Hommages.” It paystribute to Florent’s time spent in the kitchens of three Orange Countyrestaurants: Aubergine, Pascal Restaurant, and Pinot Provence.There’s Lamb Couscous Royale from Pinot Provence, MesquiteSmoked Duck Breast with Rosé-Wine Vinegar and Honey fromAubergine, and Braised Rabbit a la Moutarde accompanied withhand-rolled noodles from Pascal Restaurant.

As for finales, there is an inviting list of domestic and importedcheeses, but it would be almost impossible to resist Amelia’s desserts.Her Mirabelle (French plum) tart with fig, pastry cream, and lemonverbena ice cream is scrumptious (the irresistible herbaceous icecream was the perfect complement). The yellow Mirabelle plums, aspecialty in France’s Lorraine region, will only be available for a shorttime; their season ends in late September.

And, of course, there are Amelia’s luscious interpretations of Frenchmacarons. The flavors and textures are extraordinary and their size,very generous—Lychee, Yuzu, Rose, and Raspberry Texture, the latterenriched with white chocolate feuilletine (crispy bits).It was comforting to see Florent’s copper cookware made thetransition to the new locale, the gleaming pots and skillets that he hasowned since his teens. Some are in use, others hang on hooks. It’sgood to see the old mix with the new.

Marché Moderne is located at 7862 East Coast Highway, NewportBeach (across from Javier’s). 714-434-7900Open 7 days a week for dinner (no lunch), starting at 5 p.m. Valet is$6.

Later they will offer Sunday brunch. After the holidays, they will offer“Spontanée Dinner Menus” – three-course dinners for $38 served onMondays and Tuesdays.

Cathy Thomas is an award-winning food writer and has authoredthree cookbooks: “50 Best Plants on the Planet,” “Melissa’s GreatBook of Produce,” and “Melissa’s Everyday Cooking with OrganicProduce.”

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