Shar Pei Secrets

By Lucille Ambrose

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Table Of Contents Page No Foreword 3 Chapter 1. The Origins Of The Shar-Peis 4 Chapter 2. Addressing Health Issues 18 Chapter 3. Feeding Your Shar-Pei 42 Chapter 4.Grooming & Taking Care Of Your Shar-Pei 51 Chapter 5. Training Your Shar Pei 55 Chapter 6. FAQ’s 66 Chapter 7. Breeding, Spaying & Neutering 72 Resources 82

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Foreword Shar-Peis are intelligent dogs needing little training. Although they are somewhat aloof, snobbish and reserved in the presence of strangers, they are extremely loyal and devoted to their family. Essentially they are an independent, regal, alert, dignified, animal with a calm and confident stature. Being an exceptionally intelligent dog makes the Shar-Pei an ideal companion. Whether your intention is to exhibit at conformation shows, participate in obedience trials, or just to own a loving, loyal pet. The Shar-Pei is sure to give you great satisfaction. They enjoy both the open spaces of a country life and the suburban life, and are equally happy indoors or outdoors. They excel at obedience work and take pride in pleasing their owners, which makes them a pleasure to train and own. Shar-Peis have been called the Chinese Fighting dog, but this is a misnomer of sorts as they are not dogs that will savagely seek to fight other animals, but they will, however, retaliate with fervor should they be provoked. The best part of owning a Shar-Pei , is that they require minimal grooming- a weekly brushing and biweekly bath will do. Besides, they are also a very clean breed and almost housebreak themselves. Because of its padded head, the Shar-Pei is very sensitive to heat. Shade and water must always be available. Puppies grow very quickly and must be fed accordingly. Some owners are allergic to its coarse coat. Shar-Pei generally hates water and tries very hard to avoid

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it. Fevers of unknown origin or swollen hocks syndrome may be the early stages of amyloidosis (kidney failure). Shar-Peis are a one-man dog, although living in a family environment, they will love everyone, but they will always have their own favorite person and it may not be the one you choose but the one they choose to bond with. The ideal owner will appreciate the loyalty this breed exhibits and also respect its need for space. They need exercise, socialization, love and attention to be a happy, well-balanced pet. Is Shar-pei the pet for you? Read the next chapter to find out.

Chapter 1 The Origins Of The Shar Peis

The Shar-Pei is a very ancient breed. Its history begins as early as 202-220 AD (Han Dynasty). The Chinese Shar-Pei, is believed to have originated in the area around the small village of Tai Li in Kwangtung Province, located in the southern provinces of China. Statues bearing a strong resemblance to the Shar-Pei have been discovered and dated to this period. More recently, a Chinese manuscript of the 13th century has been translated; it refers to a wrinkled dog with characteristics much like those of the Shar-Pei. The name "Shar-Pei” literally means "sand-skin", but translated more loosely as "rough, sandy coat" or "sand-paper-like coat" and refers to the two distinctive qualities of the Shar-Pei coat - roughness and shortness - which make the breed unique in the dog world. The Shar-Pei shares another distinctive characteristic with only one other breed, the Chow-Chow, in having a blue-black tongue, which may indicate an ancestor common to both breeds. For many years, the Shar-Pei was kept as a general-purpose farm dog in the Chinese countryside, used for hunting, protecting stock, and guarding the home and family. During that time, it was bred for intelligence, strength and its very distinct scowling face. Later, the Shar-Pei was used in dog fighting. The loose skin and extremely prickly coat were developed to aid the dog in fighting, making the Shar-Pei difficult for an opponent to grab and hold on to.

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The history of the Chinese Shar-Pei in modern times is incomplete. In 1940s, when the communist regime took over China, Mao Tse-Tung chose to impose luxury tax on pets. As a result, in the 1960s the Chinese Shar-Pei breed was under a threat of extinction. It was named the most rare dog breed in the Guinness Book of World Records in late 60s. During this period a few Chinese Shar-Pei were bred in Hong Kong, BC and in the Republic of China (Taiwan). The breed was recognized by the Hong Kong Kennel Club around 1968. Subsequently the Hong Kong and Kowloon Kennel Association established a dog registry and registered the Shar-Pei. This organization still registers the breed today along with other registries in Taiwan, Japan, Korea, as well as organizations in Europe, Canada and Great Britain. In the United States, the documented history of the breed goes back to 1966 when a few dogs were imported from stock registered with the Hong Kong Kennel Club. The American Dog Breeders Association registered a Chinese Shar-Pei for J.C. Smith on October 8, 1970. Help came from Hong-Kong, when in 1973, Mr. Matgo Law wrote to an American magazine explaining the problem and enclosing some pictures of these dogs. He was concerned about the disappearance of the breed. There was an immediate response resulting in making the Shar-Pei the most expensive dog breed in the world. The Shar-Pei fever lasted several years and made the breed extremely fashionable. However, this fad brought about the problem of poor quality breeding of Shar-Peis caused by irresponsible, greedy, breeders to whom only money mattered. The Chinese Shar-Pei Club of America, Inc. (CSPCA), held its first organizational meeting in 1974, and the club has been in continuous existence since that time. The first Annual National Specialty Show was held in 1978 and successive national shows have been held each year. The Club's primary purpose was to promote the breed, maintain the studbook registry and to provide a standard for the breed. On May 4, 1988 the Chinese Shar-Pei was accepted in to the American Kennel Club (AKC) Miscellaneous Class. The CSPCA continued to represent the breed and operated the registry until the AKC accepted the breed into the Non-Sporting Group on August 1, 1992. The CSPCA continues to promote the best interests of the breed, maintains the Standard and serves as a Member Club of the AKC.

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Breed Standard of the Chinese Shar-Pei General Appearance The Chinese Shar-Pei is square profiled, with a broad, full head, distinctive wide, padded muzzle, and extremely loose, wrinkled skin. (Wrinkles may be more pronounced in puppies.) The ears are very small, and lie flat against the head. The unusual coat is extremely prickly (there is also a "brush coated" variety with longer hairs and a smoother feel). The coat on either variety can be up to 1 inch in length. The Shar-pei is an alert, medium-sized dog. The loose skin and wrinkles covering the head, neck and body are in abundance in puppies but these features may be limited to the head, neck. Besides, it withers in the adult. Another distinguishing characteristic is the blue-black tongue .A scissors bite is strongly preferred. The tail is set high, is wide at the base, and tapers to a point, curling up over or off the side of the back. Proportion and Substance Preferred height is 18 to 20 inches at the withers. The preferred weight is 40 to 55 pounds. The dog is usually larger and squarer than the bitch, but both appear well proportioned. Proportion: The height of the Shar-Pei from the ground to the withers is approximately equal to the length from the point of breastbone to the point of the rump. Head The head is large, slightly but not overly, proudly carried and covered with a lot of wrinkles on the forehead continuing into side wrinkles framing the face. Eyes Eyes are dark, small, almond-shaped and sunken, displaying a scowling expression. In the dilute colored dogs the eye color may be lighter. Ears The ears are extremely small rather thick, equilateral triangles in shape, slightly rounded at the tips; edges of the ear may curl. Ears lie flat against the head, are set wide apart and forward on the skull, pointing toward the eyes. The ears have the ability to move. Pricked ears are a disqualification.

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Skull The skull is flat and broad, the stop moderately defined. Muzzle This is one of the distinctive features of the breed. It is broad and full with no suggestion of snippiness. The length from nose to stop is approximately the same as from stop to occiput. Nose large and wide and darkly pigmented, preferably black but any color nose conforming to the general coat color of the dog is acceptable. In dilute colors, the preferred nose is self-colored. Darkly pigmented cream Shar-Pei may have some light pigment either in the center of their noses or on their entire nose. The lips and top of muzzle are well padded and may cause a slight bulge at the base of the nose. Tongue Tongue, solid bluish-black is preferred in all coat colors except in dilute colors , which have a solid lavender pigmentation. A spotted tongue is a major fault. A solid pink tongue is a disqualification. (Tongue colors may lighten due to heat stress; care must be taken not to confuse dilute pigmentation with a pink tongue). Teeth Teeth are strong, meeting in a scissors bite. Deviation from a scissors bite is a major fault. Neck The neck is medium length, full and set well into the shoulders. There are moderate to heavy folds of loose skin and abundant dewlap above the neck and throat.

Topline The topline dips slightly behind the withers, slightly rising over the short, broad loin.

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Chest The chest is broad and deep with the brisket extending to the elbow and rising slightly under the loin. Back short and close-coupled. Croup The croup is flat, with the base of the tail, set extremely high, clearly exposing an up tilted anus. The high set tail is a characteristic feature of the Shar-Pei. Tail The tail is thick and round at the base, tapering to a fine point and curling over or to either side of the back. The absence of a complete tail is a disqualification. Shoulders Muscular, well laid back and sloping. Forelegs When viewed from the front, straight, moderately spaced, with elbows close to the body. When viewed from the side, the forelegs are straight; the pasterns are strong and flexible. The bone is substantial but never heavy and is of moderate length. Removal of front dewclaws is optional. Feet Feet are moderate in size, compact and firmly set, not splayed. Hindquarters Hindquarters are muscular, strong, and moderately angular. The metatarsi (hocks} are short, perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other when viewed from the rear. Hind dewclaws must be removed. Feet as in front. Coat The extremely harsh coat is one of the distinguishing features of the breed. The coat is absolutely straight and off standing on the main trunk of the body but generally lies somewhat flatter on the limbs. The coat

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appears healthy without being shiny or lustrous. Acceptable coat lengths may range from extremely short horse coat up to the brush coat not to exceed one inch in length at the withers. A soft coat, a wavy coat, a coat in excess of 1 inch in length at the withers or a coat that has been trimmed is a major fault. The Shar-Pei is shown in its natural state. Color Only solid colors are acceptable. A solid colored dog may have shading, primarily darker down the back and on the ears. The shading must be variations of the same body color (except in sables) and may include darker hairs throughout the coat. The following colors are a disqualifying fault: Not a solid color, that is: Albino; Brindle; Parti-colored (patches) Spotted (including spots, ticked or roaning ) Tan-Pointed Pattern (including typical black and tan or saddled patterns). Gait The movement of the Shar-Pei is to be judged at a trot. The gait is free and balanced with the feet tending to converge on a centerline of gravity when the dog moves at a vigorous trot. The gait combines good forward reach and a strong drive in the hindquarters. Proper movement is essential. Temperament Regal, alert, intelligent, dignified, lordly, scowling, sober and snobbish, essentially independent and somewhat standoffish with strangers, but extreme in his devotion to his family. The Shar-Pei stands firmly on the ground with a calm, confident stature. Faults Faults are undesirable traits in a dog. A major fault is undesirable, but forgivable in the show ring. The judge may overlook a major fault if the dog has other outstanding qualities. A disqualifying fault means that a dog with such a fault should not bred or shown in AKC Conformation.

Major Faults *Spotted tongue *A soft coat

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*A wavy coat *A coat in excess if 1 inch at the withers *A coat that has been trimmed.

Disqualifications * Pricked Ears * Solid Pink Tongue * Absence of a complete tail * Not a solid color, that is, the dog's coat is one of the following: * Albino * Brindle * Parti-colored (patches) * Spotted (including spots, ticked or roaning) * Tan-Pointed Pattern (including typical black and tan or saddled patterns). Average Life Span:

The average lifespan for a Shar-Pei is 10 to 12 years.

Behavior: Children: Good with children. Friendliness: Reserved with strangers. Trainability: Easy to train. Independence: Moderately dependent on people. Dominance: High. Combativeness: Tends to be fairly aggressive towards other dogs. Talents: watchdog, guarding, and competitive obedience Behavior with other pets

The Shar-Pei is primarily a working dog, although it is placed in the non-sporting classification. Socialization with other animals is important, as they can be aggressive especially with other dogs of the same sex. Personality and temperament varies with each dog. Some Shar-Peis will live quite happily around smaller animals and livestock while others may exhibit the natural instinct to hunt.

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They are generally good with children and other pets if they are reared with them.

Care

They are easy to look after and contrary to common misperceptions they do not require special care of their abundant wrinkles. Normal dog management, vaccinating, deworming, treating for fleas, bathing, and general welfare will ensure that you have a healthy dog. These dogs are not smelly and the short length of the coat means that no brushing is required. Attention needs to be paid to the ears, as they can get dirty due to the lack of air circulation. Dietary requirements are a simple well-balanced dog diet with special attention paid to avoiding artificial colors, preservatives and red meat. Other ingredients to be avoided are corn, and soy products. These can lead to allergic reactions in this breed.

Fun things to do: Daily walks, not runs, make for a great exercise for you and your Shar-pei. Things to watch out for with this breed: They cannot see very well, and this causes them to be startled if approached too quickly. In addition, there are numerous potential health problems. Most veterinarians will be familiar with Shar-pei and their special health needs Miscellaneous: The Shar-pei was accepted into the AKC in 1992, in the Non-Sporting Group. Is Shar-Pei The Right Breed For Me?

First let's have a look at some of the common characteristics of this breed:

• Is medium-sized and sturdily-built • Has an unusual appearance: wrinkled skin, hippopotamus head,

and scowling expression • Stands firmly on the ground with a calm, confident, dignified stature • Is naturally clean and easy to housebreak • Doesn't bark much

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• Needs only moderate exercise

What Can You Expect From A Shar-Pei?

• Aggression in some lines, or when not socialized properly • Aggression toward other animals • Strong-willed mind of his own, requiring a confident owner who

can take charge • Shedding • Snorting and snoring • High prices • Serious health problems

Various Issues About Shar-Peis That You Should Consider

1. Aggression toward strangers. Many Chinese Shar Peis have protective instincts and distrust strangers. They need extensive exposure to friendly people so that they learn to recognize normal behavior. Only then will they recognize the difference when someone acts abnormally. Without proper socialization, they may be suspicious of everyone, which can lead to their biting people.

2. Animal aggression. Many Chinese Shar Peis are dominant or aggressive toward other dogs, especially of the same sex. Many have strong instincts to chase and seize cats and other fleeing creatures. This is not a good breed to keep with livestock. If anything goes wrong in the breeding, socializing, training, handling, or management of this breed, it is capable of seriously injuring or killing other animals.

3. The strong temperament. Chinese Shar Pei is not a Golden Retriever. They have an independent mind of their own and are not pushovers to raise and train. Many Chinese Shar -peis are willful, obstinate, and dominant (they want to be the boss) and will make you prove that you can make them do things. You must show them, through absolute consistency, that you mean what you say.

4. Shedding and harsh coat. Chinese Shar-peis come in three coat varieties. The "horse" coat is very short and prickly, and can irritate the skin of sensitive people. The "brush" coat is thicker and about one inch long. The "bear" coat is very heavy, like that of a Chow. All three coats shed, with the brush and bear coats shedding the most.

5. Shar-Pei sounds. Many Chinese Sharpeis snort, grunt, and snore loudly. The sounds are endearing to some people; nerve-wracking to others.

6. High prices. Though this breed is very common, many breeders still charge $1000 or more.

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7. Serious health problems. It's been said that if you feel like supporting your vet with great chunks of money, get a Chinese Shar pei. They suffer from a host of eye problems, skin diseases and allergies, kidney disease, and more.

Does your family include children? Children and dogs can make a great combination if you keep these things in mind. Consider the age of your child and the antics of a puppy. You should not mix babies and Shar-Pei puppies together-because of their bouncy behavior and dominant attitude towards weaker beings. Constant supervision is required to avoid scratches or knockdowns of small children. What social lifestyle do you maintain? Chinese Shar-Peis were bred to be guard dogs and protectors of their territory. They can be raised to accept strangers, but it requires constant training to avoid a relapse into their natural behavior. They may scare your neighbors away from dropping in for an unexpected visit. What do you consider expensive for owning or purchasing a dog? Unfortunately, even the best breeders cannot guarantee perfect health, and you can expect to visit your vet for more than just your yearly checkups. Make sure you are financially stable and willing to afford proper care. It is vitally important to check the overall health of the pedigree, especially the parents. Find out when and how many of its relatives have died, especially when it comes to renal amyloidosis or cancer. This will give you a better idea of the longetivity of your Shar-pei line. When possible, ask for a veterinarian recommendation. What relationship do you expect from a dog? Most Shar-Peis prefer a stable territory to purposefully dedicate themselves in protecting those people closest. These intentions make their relationship responsive and endearing to their owners, but if you have a large family, or one where people come and go at irregular hours, this may upset and cause tension, confusion, or unpredictable behavior, in your Shar-Pei. What would you do if you could no longer keep your Shar-Pei? Considering the type of devoted companionship and relationship that a Chinese Shar-Pei offers, this is a very important question that you

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should ask yourself before purchase. If your intentions are impulsive, please think things through. Many of our rescue dogs are created by impulsive or uneducated purchases. Learn before you buy! There are plenty of adult Chinese Sharpeis, which have already proven themselves NOT to have such negative characteristics. If you find such an adult, don't let "typical breed negatives" worry you. Other important areas that you would need to think about are: What type of exercise will be available for your dog? Whether it is daily walks, fenced yard or other containment protection, to allow the dog exercise without running away or avoid being approached by other animals or strangers when unsupervised. A well-controlled dog is vital when living in a suburban area, and a well-balanced dog requires daily exercise to remain healthy! What type of veterinary care is available? Unfortunately, not all regions of our country are populated with enough Chinese Shar-Pei to offer a veterinarian with experience in working with this breed. Plan ahead, you may need to look outside your general area. Don't expect your current vet to know the right information; many people have lost their puppies and adults due to inexperienced veterinarians. What kind of obedience or handling classes is offered in your area? You may be surprised to find out that there are no classes available, they will be much further away than planned, or they will be more expensive. Don't neglect the needs of your pet--an untrained Shar-pei can be a threat to itself and your community! How To Find A Shar-Pei Puppy:

1. Deciding if you want a Shar-Pei puppy Try to find out as much about the breed as possible before you start looking for a new pup. The Shar-Pei does have some unique health problems such as Familial Shar-Pei Fever which can result in kidney failure at a young age, entropion (rolling in) of the eye

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lids, tight lip syndrome, cancer, etc. which you should become well-versed in before searching for a puppy. Besides, you will definitely want to ask questions concerning Shar-Pei problems of the breeder you choose. It may be noted that the health care expenses for a Shar-Pei are very much towards the high end of the scale in general. This doesn't mean all Shar-Pei require expensive medical care but that one should be prepared for that possibility. It would be ideal to start a medical savings account for the puppy ahead of time. This is a savings account in which you deposit, on a regular basis, funds for potential medical care. With this in place, any unexpected medical expenses will not cause as immediate a hardship on the family finances. Issues of routine maintenance procedures such as bathing, nail trimming, and ear cleaning, puppy housebreaking and training, yard cleanup, crate training and exercise should be discussed and planned for in advance before deciding to get a puppy. Who is going to let the pup out during the day while you're at work? How do I puppy-proof the house? Does my apartment lease allow me to have a dog and are there size restrictions? Will my vet see Shar-Pei? Where can I go for puppy classes and basic obedience training?

2. Finding a Shar-Pei Breeder I would strongly advise against purchasing a Shar-Pei from a pet shop or puppy broker. The quality of the pups usually isn't the best, the health is often questionable and you don't deal with the breeder of the pup directly. You could solicit Shar-Pei breeder recommendations from veterinarians, Shar-Pei owners, the Shar-Pei breed publication called The Barker, and the AKC web site at www.AKC.org and click on Breeder Referral. The breeder's location may limit the choice although a quality pup is well worth the trip. You might check out AKC shows in your area and talk with Shar-Pei breeders who are attending the show.

3. Selecting the Right Shar-Pei Breeder You are selecting a breeder with a lifelong commitment to you and your puppy in mind. Also your breeder should have a commitment to the breed and a goal of producing dogs that will better the breed. I don't think any question is too tough to ask the breeder and you should expect straight and honest answers. Consider the following checklist:

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a. Will the breeder allow you to see the pup's parents (sire and dam)? How are their health, longevity and temperament?

b. What are the major causes of death in the line? c. Will the breeder freely discuss health issues in the breed? d. Is the breeder active in the breed demonstrated by having

membership in the Chinese Shar-Pei Club of America, showing their dogs in obedience, conformation and/or agility, membership in the American Kennel Club, supporting breed rescue?

e. Will the breeder give you references to check such as veterinarians, other puppy owners, friends, etc?

f. Does the breeder have an information packet for your review?

g. Will the breeder give you a copy of the puppy contract to review? Does the contract contain a health guarantee?

h. Does the breeder vaccinate the pups; deworm them, check stool samples, etc?

Selecting a Puppy Before selecting a Shar-pei puppy, consider these guidelines: * Puppies should at least be 8 weeks of age before going to a new home. A puppy needs adequate time with his/ her littermates and mother for proper socialization to begin. * Buyers should see both parents. Although it's normal for a Shar-Pei to behave in a standoffish manner in the presence of strangers, neither the sire nor the dam ( nor puppies) should behave in a shy or aggressive manner. * Buyers should look for a puppy that is confidant not shy, aggressive fearful. To buy the funniest pup is not advised. Before a decision is made, eyes and ears of the puppy should be examined. Does the puppy look healthy? Does he have a normal weight? Is he lively and curious? * Health should be of the utmost importance for a new prospective owner. No discharge from the eyes or nose, distended or potbellied abdomen, dull coat, and no lethargic behavior. EYES: avoid eyes that tear, drain, or have that extremely "puffy" look. These are signs of allergies or entropion and usually require surgery to correct.

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EARS: extremely small or flattened ear canals provide an unhealthy environment for recurring yeast or ear infections, especially during extreme temperatures or allergy seasons. PALATE: elongated soft palate can cause respiratory distress when hot or sick, and is usually associated with snoring or choking. SKIN: reddened, flaking, or loss of hair is underlying symptoms for poor diet, allergies, or unhealthy genetic breeding. BITE: overbite and tight lip are major faults within the breed, causing poor eating disorders, mouth sores, or early loss of teeth. HIPS: hip dysplasia is still prominent in many bloodlines, causing crippling at a young age. Make sure parents are x-rayed for dysplasia. GENERAL HEALTH: the dog must be alert, active, and look the appropriate weight to be in general good health. Because of these and many other genetic disorders, including early kidney failure and cancer, there are many bloodlines that do not live as long as others. Research your pedigree and require the breeder to allow you to see the actual parents and as many of its relatives as possible * Check with the kennel club in your area if you are not sure about what papers you are entitled to, but you should not be asked to pay extra for the registration papers of your new puppy. Papers included in the purchasing price of your pup are a signed pedigree, copies of the contract of sale and health guarantee, a complete health record that includes the dates of deworming and a veterinarian's certificate proving inoculation. "The breeder also should provide written proof that he or she will take the puppy back within a limited period of time if it is found to be ill or suffering from some defect. Dogs should be examined by a veterinarian within 48 hours of the sale. Pet quality dogs should be sold with a spay/ neuter contract Be Prepared For Your Puppy Have your checklist ready before you bring him home: *Bowls for food and water *A crate - I advise a crate with double latches on the door. *Bedding *Food *Toys *Leash and collar *Nail clippers *A veterinarian who is Shar-Pei friendly. *A training class, especially one offering puppy kindergarten classes. Treats

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4. When You Pick Up Your Puppy Be sure you receive a signed copy of the dog's contract, the AKC papers for that puppy, copies of vaccination/veterinary records, some of the food the puppy has been on (usually 7-14 days worth), and any other information the breeder usually gives out. Be sure to have the breeder's information and their veterinarian's information also.

Chapter 2 Addressing Health Issues

That adorable, cuddly puppy will grow into a strong, opinionated, adult dog. It will win your heart with loyalty and affection to your family. Unless properly socialized, however, it often will refuse to be friendly to others besides being aggressive to other animals and towards strangers. It will be to your advantage to introduce your puppy to a variety of different dogs and people when it is still young. The Shar-Pei is not a ‘ barking ’dog, but it will bark when threatened. It is a good watchdog, and does not over react. In return for the love and devotion that your Shar-Pei will give you, you must give him or her the love he or she pines for and the attention required to promote a long, healthy and happy life. As with all living things, diet is the first line of defense against poor health and disease. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a high quality dog food and limit your dog’s intake of high carbohydrate and fatty foods. Proper veterinary care will extend and increase the quality of your dog’s life. Plenty of time spent developing and enjoying the relationship between you and your Shar-Pei will extend yours.

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How To Pick A Vet For Your Shar-Pei

1. Being a good vet involves a fine balance of the following skills: o People skills o Caring/compassion for animals - animal skills o Medical skills o Philosophy of practice.

It's difficult to find someone with all the necessary skills.

2. At any given time the same vet may fail in one of these skill areas. Is the owner willing to stay with the same vet for the long haul or bail out based on one mistake or bad encounter? It is amazing to see several people jump from vet to vet or see multiple vets. It's very hard to get to know an owner or their animals or become familiar with the pet's history when they see so many vets. This often compromises the medical care of the pet and may waste valuable resources. It also results in bringing one vet's philosophy/approach and trying to impose it on another vet. Each vet has a different philosophy of practice and that difference must be respected.

3. There must be give and take between the owner and the veterinarian. The vet must be willing to learn from the owner and pet. Likewise the owner must be willing to let the vet be the ultimate authority. Neither must demand their position.

4. Shar-Pei owners must realize that not all vets want to be or find it reasonable to become a Shar-Pei authority. In most vet practices the Shar-Pei accounts for a very small percentage of the clientele. Many vets do not have the time or the inclination to keep abreast of the literature on Shar-Pei and their unique qualities and medical problems. And that's OK as long as the owner knows that. And the vet should not be held in contempt for that either.

5. Honesty and forthrightness are critical in the veterinarian/client relationship. This doesn't have to be adversarial or confrontational. It's very helpful to know what the owner’s expectations are, his financial concerns, etc.

6. Attributes of a good client: o respect for vet's position and time o good people skills o medical/animal knowledge o realistic financial ability o animal skills - compassion, caring, etc. o loyalty

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Keeping Your Shar-Pei Healthy

(1) DIET: Shar-pei requires food, which promotes its good health and also takes care of the skin and coat. Your generic brand dog food does not. Staying with a good brand will reduce the problems from the start.

(2) GROOMING: All Shar-pei require regular grooming yearlong. Special bathing during flea season and extra brushing during coat changes are mandatory for keeping the coat healthy.

(3) INJURY: Special care to any cuts or scrapes is necessary, especially within the wrinkles, to avoid infection. Shar-pei’s skin can be cut or torn easily, especially during playtime with other dogs. Treat all cuts immediately with antibiotic ointment and get oral antibiotics for any serious injuries. Watch for yeast infections caused by moisture.

(4) ENVIRONMENT: Shar-pei is better suited as indoor pet to reduce any other health problems that can affect the skin. Allergens such as pieces of grass, pollen, insect bites, fleas, and harsh flea or shampoo products can cause skin/coat irritation or allergic reactions. Any time spent outdoors should be followed by brushing the coat and a check for irritants.

(5) IMMUNIZATIONS: Chinese Shar-peis are not equipped with the strongest immune system and are more susceptible than the average dog. It is highly recommended to keep every Shar-pei fully immunized against known viruses.

(6) PREVENTATIVE CARE: The best way to avoid any health problems is by learning how to prevent them. Eyes and ears need to be kept clear and dry, the coat must be kept free of dead hairs, regular bathing for good skin, and nails cut every couple of weeks.

(7) LOVE YOUR PET: Chinese Shar-pei are very loving, but sensitive creatures-- requiring a stable and stress-free environment and love from its family to enjoy good health for years to come. It is recommended that all pets be altered at six months of age to avoid the complications of intact animals, including cancer and unwanted puppies.

Home Care

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The Shar-pei has a weak immune systems, which is very sensitive to allergens-insect stings, fleas, contact with yard, plant, or house chemicals, pollen, grass itch, unhealthy or spoiled food, wrong medicines, or abnormal stress are all possible allergens. The symptoms that should be viewed with concern are: excessive scratching especially on the face or feet, sneezing, itchy or runny eyes, shaking head, and red, itchy rash or hives. From personal experience, these human products and listed prescription medicines have been most successful to alleviate or prevent most infections or reactions. Please seek the advice of your veterinarian before administering any medications. BENEDRYL: Relieves itchy/runny eyes, ears, nose, or hives. Talk to your veterinarian prior to use, for it can cause potential injury if not administered properly. KAOPECTATE: relieves diarrhea or stomach irritation. Use IMMODIUM-AD for severe cases. Call your veterinarian first if you think your dog has been poisoned! EYE DROPS: Clears drainage from eyes and relieves redness. If drainage is infectious or ulcers have started, ask for TRIOPTIC or other triple antibiotic ointment. To treat stress entropion, use TETRACAINE HYDROCHLORIDE or ATROPINE ointment on a limited basis. If eye troubles persist, surgery may be required to correct the problem. MINERAL OIL: Use on a cotton ball once a week to gently clean the inside of the ear. (It is not recommended to use a Q-Tip or other instrument, for it tends to cause more irritation.) If heavy wax or black yeast formations are present, clean daily (until it disappears) with an ear cleaner such as OTI-CLENS or GENTL-CLENS (which includes an ear drying formula). For yeast infections, ask your vet for TRESEDERM or XENODINE. For ear infections, OTOMAX is most effective. To avoid continual infection recurrence, continue all treatments for at least 7 to 14 days. In extreme cases or dogs with allergic problems may need up to a month of treatment. Ask your veterinarian for professional treatment advice. CORTISONE/BENEDRYL CREAM: Relieves itchy rashes or insect bites. If the skin has yeast formations (dark black splotches), clean with BETADINE first. For serious itching, consider using CALAMINE lotion, but avoid excessive use, for it will dry the skin. EPIDERM DOG SHAMPOO: for skin irritation problems, like hot spots or oozing rashes. For dogs with healthy skin use a high protein,

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moisturizing human shampoo for bi-weekly regular use, but some vets disagree, recommending an oatmeal or sulfur based shampoo with a designated dog's PH balance. VASELINE (OR FAVORITE HAND LOTION): Immediate relief of flaking or dry skin. Please note: this is not necessarily a lasting or effective treatment. Other treatments for dry skin include adding safflower or fish oil to your pet's food. BENZOYL PEROXIDE OR PREPARATION "H": To relieve and heal "hot spots". We occasionally rely on an old pet favorite, SULFADENE, that can be purchased at most grocery stores, for "hot spots" and also moist ear problems. ANTIBIOTIC OINTMENT: Treat all cuts and scratches to prevent infection. Should excessive diarrhea, vomiting, or fever accompany a reaction, or if the symptoms persist, it may not be allergy related. Dogs don't get colds, but Shar-peis are susceptible to different viruses, causing cold-like symptoms.

Common Diseases and Disorders Some of the common medical concerns, diseases or disorders reported in a Sharp-pei are: Blindness in the Chinese Shar-Pei One of the major causes of blindness is uncorrected entropion. This is a problem with the eyelid that causes inward rolling. Lashes on the edge of the eyelid, facial wrinkles may actually rub against the eye causing erosions, ulcers, and even permanent blindness. Watery eyes, infection, even a corneal ulcer, can occur. Surgical correction is required. Dogs with this condition should not be bred, as a genetic component is suspected. Drying of the cornea can also cause similar changes and is seen in a condition called keratoconjunctivitis sicca (KCS). In this condition, there is a decrease in tear production primarily in the lacrimal gland. This can occur as a sequela to viral infection such as distemper, herpes virus and others or as a primary immune-mediated destruction of the lacrimal gland. The decrease in tear production results in drying of the

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cornea and the formation of scar tissue as a protective response. A Schirmer Tear Test, which measures tear production, can be easily done to diagnose this condition and treatment is possible. KCS also seems to occur more often in those dogs that have had "cherry eye" or prolapse of the gland of the third eyelid in which the gland was removed instead of tacked back into position. Tacking is much preferred in treating cherry eye for this reason. Other causes of blindness we will discuss are glaucoma, optic neuritis, Sudden Acquired Retinal Degeneration (SARD) and retinal detachment/hemorrhage. Blindness in the Shar-Pei is not hopeless. Dogs adjust very well to blindness and can function normally after an adjustment period. Some simple rules that can help your Shar-pei are:

1. Don't change the environment much. Dogs memorize the layout of the house and yard.

2. Keep blind dogs on a leash in a new environment. Help them with stairs, doors and other obstacles.

3. Watch blind dogs around other dogs. Dogs don't always realize blind dogs can't see and may fight when they get bumped into or stared at by a blind dog.

4. While their hearing is unaffected, blind dogs seem to have some trouble in orienting to sound.

Blindness is not unique to Shar-Pei and owners need to be aware that blind dogs can have an excellent quality of life. They need us to be their eyes. Sudden Acquired Retinal Degeneration (SARD) Sudden acquired retinal degeneration (SARD) is a retinal disease seen in Shar-Pei as well as other breeds of dogs. Remember the retina is the photoreceptor layer of the eye, which is responsible for converting visual images to electrical signals. These signals are transmitted to the brain where the image is processed. This condition leads to a very sudden onset of blindness, which occurs over a period of a few days to several weeks. The retina is normal when viewed with an ophthalmoscope, but there is a loss of photoreceptor activity as evidenced by a diminished electroretinogram (ERG). The ERG is a test, which measures the electrical activity of the retina. Synonyms for SARD are "toxic metabolic retinopathy" and "silent retina syndrome". Shar-Pei with SARD are usually middle-aged females many of whom are overweight and may have symptoms of Cushing's disease or hyperadrenocorticism - increased water consumption, increased urination, panting, increased appetite, etc.

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Often there are laboratory changes in the blood tests consistent with hyperadrenocorticism such as an increase in liver tests such as the alkaline phosphatase, alanine transaminase (used to be the SGPT) and cholesterol. Some of these dogs will have abnormal ACTH stimulation or low-dose dexamethasone suppression tests confirming hyperadrenocorticism. There is no treatment for SARD and the dog will be permanently blind. Your veterinarian should rule out other causes of blindness in Shar-Pei which include glaucoma, retinal detachment (sometimes accompanying hypertension with kidney disease), pigmentary keratitis, optic neuritis, etc. Optic Neuritis This is an inflammatory condition of the optic nerve, which can result in acute, bilateral loss of vision. Degenerative changes in the optic nerve can result in similar symptoms and are more correctly termed optic neuropathy. Causes include infectious diseases such as canine distemper, toxoplasmosis, and others, various types of cancer such as lymphoma and tumors involving the orbit or bony eyeball socket, vitamin A deficiency, trauma, other diseases of the orbit such as abscesses and cellulitis and unknown causes. The vast majority of optic neuritis in dogs is due to unknown causes. Early treatment is imperative and involves the use of steroids. The prognosis is guarded and recurrences are common. Glaucoma

Is a painful and serious condition that causes pressure within the eye to increase. It can lead to blindness if not treated early. Glaucoma is classified as primary or secondary. Primary glaucoma occurs in the Shar-Pei due to a genetically pre-programmed narrowing of the drainage angle. This interferes with drainage of the aqueous fluid and causes an increase in intraocular pressure. Secondary glaucoma occurs in the Shar-Pei as a result of lens luxation. This is inherited as a simple autosomal recessive trait in the Shar-Pei Clinical signs include conjunctivitis ("bloodshot eyes"), cloudy cornea, swollen (buphthalmos) painful eyes, squinting, increases tearing, and pupil size can vary depending on the stage of glaucoma but most often the pupil is fixed and dilated.

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Diagnosis is based on measurement of intraocular pressure (IOP). Normal values in the dog are 15-25 mmHg. Anything above 25 mmHg is abnormal and glaucoma treatment should be initiated immediately - the increased pressure can cause lose of vision within 4-24 hours depending on how rapidly the pressure increases. One problem is that in Shar-Pei early on they may have intermittent pressure spikes and be normal in between these episodes. Also squinting may be mistaken for entropion. Medical treatment, in the dog, is usually not successful long term. Surgical options, in a visual eye, involve destroying some of the ciliary body by freezing or laser destruction , or placing a glaucoma shunt. In the blind eye in which the pressure can't be controlled medically options include removing the eyeball, using an intraocular prosthesis or injecting the eyeball with gentamicin to destroy ciliary tissue. These are procedures done by a veterinary ophthalmologist. Retinal Detachment/Hemorrhage Dogs do develop secondary hypertension or high blood pressure. Primary hypertension, which commonly occurs in humans, has not been documented in the case of dogs. Increased blood pressure often occurs secondary to kidney disease, primarily glomerulonephritis, Cushing's disease, and heart disease. High blood pressure can result in bleeding in the retina due to rupture of the tiny blood vessels located there. This hemorrhage can lead to damage with subsequent scarring of the retina or blood building up behind the retina and causing a detachment. Blindness can result. Retinal detachment can also occur as a result of head trauma. This may be treated with anti-inflammatory medication, anti-hypertensive medication and treatment of the primary disease problem.

Hypothyroidism Current estimates suggest that one Shar-pei in five is deficient in thyroid hormone. The thyroid glands secrete a hormone, which controls the basic metabolic rate of the entire body. Inadequate hormone levels reset the body to function at a lower metabolic level. In that case, dogs fatten easily on a normal diet, become sluggish, and are easily chilled. Hair changes are most noticeable and include loss of hair from the flanks and back, increased pigmentation of the skin, scaling and seborrhea (an abnormality in the production of skin cells.) Secondary bacterial infection of the skin is common. The ears may also be affected, filling with thick, yellow greasy material which may predispose the dog to ear infections.

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Blood tests will determine the level of thyroid function and administration of thyroid hormone can treat the condition. Familial Fever and Amyloidosis Shar-Pei with Familial Shar-Pei Fever (FSF):

This is a genetic disease, transmitted through a recessive gene, which causes episodes of fever up to 107oF lasting 1 to 2 days. Joint swelling, especially the ankles (hocks) commonly accompanies the fever and, if that weren't bad enough, the condition is associated with a malignant protein deposition (amyloidosis) in the kidneys, which commonly leads to kidney failure. The common signs to watch out for include:

* Have one or more bouts of unexplained fever, usually 103-107 degrees F (39.4-41.7 degrees C) but in rare cases may go higher.

* If they do not have a fever, it is not FSF. (Assuming, it is not colchicine).

* Fevers usually start before they are 18 months old but adult-onset attacks are not uncommon. Fever episodes usually become less frequent with age.

* Fever episodes last 24-36 hours in most cases without treatment.

* Of the dogs that experienced fevers, approximately 53% had experienced Swollen Hock Syndrome (SHS) at some time along with the fever.

* Be very careful not to mistake the normal “socks” (excess wrinkling around the hocks on some Shar-Pei) for SHS.

* One or more of the following signs may accompany fever episodes:

* Swelling around a joint (cellulitis) with or without inflammation of the joint itself. One or more joints may be affected but most cases involve the tibiotarsal or hock joint (SHS).

* Sometimes a swollen painful muzzle.

* Abdominal pain, reluctance to move, “roached” back, mild vomiting or diarrhea, shallow rapid breathing.

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How is FSF diagnosed?

* No single test is yet available

* Still a clinical diagnosis by history, signs and excluding other possibilities.

* Blood tests are usually negative/normal except that an elevated white blood count with a left shift is not uncommon as is mildly elevated alkaline phosphatase levels

Treatment of FSF episodes.

* Tender loving care, close observation of body temperature and otherwise benign neglect.

* Buffered aspirin.

* 1.0 ml of 50% Dipyrone SQ, or Banamine (flunixin meglumine) to reduce fever and provide pain relief, particularly for fevers > 105 degrees.

* Extremely high fevers or other systemic inflammatory response syndrome (SIRS) may indicate that rapid aggressive iv fluid therapy and shock treatment is necessary in some very rare cases. FSF episodes can be fatal and should never be shrugged off as inconsequential.

* There is no infection and therefore, antibiotics are unnecessary unless the veterinarian is concerned that the stressed dog may be secondarily infected.

Amyloidosis

Occurs when the APP cannot be broken down normally by the animal because of a defect in metabolism or when a large amount of APP continuously overwhelms the body’s ability to get rid of it. Amyloid is then deposited outside the cell walls and are not eliminated from the body. The build-up of the waste product amyloid is what causes the disease. Amyloid may be detected in different organs and in blood vessels. In the kidneys, the damage is irreversible and usually results in kidney failure and subsequent death of the dog.

* Deaths have been reported in Shar-peis, as young as 8 months of age and as old as 12 years of age. It most commonly strikes between 3 and 5 years of age.

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* Amyloidosis can only be diagnosed by surgical biopsy or by tissues obtained at autopsy. The abnormal amyloid protein is identified with special stains when examined under the microscope.

Most Common Signs of Advanced Amyloidosis.

* Unexplained weight loss.

* Increased thirst and frequency of urination.

* Vomiting

* Bad Breath as a result of uremia (the buildup of toxins/wastes in the bloodstream as the kidney +/- liver fails to process them).

How is Amyloidosis Treated?

* Slow the progression of irreversible kidney disease with dietary management and supportive care... prescription kidney diets, omega 3 fatty acids, low dose aspirin therapy, ACE-inhibitors (benazepril or enalapril), and antioxidants may be indicated in individual cases.

* Thromboembolism “throwing a clot” is not uncommon in these patients and that is why low dose (1/4 of a baby aspirin once daily) may be recommended.

* Liver disease often shows up as severe jaundice along with weight loss, vomiting and inappetance. These cases seem to have a better prognosis than those primarily affecting the kidneys and have shown good response to colchicine therapy with survival times over 4 years possible

Other causes of kidney failure in Shar-Pei

* Glomerulonephritis

* Pyelonephritis

* Renal Infarcts

You cannot assume that every Shar-Pei that died of kidney failure had amyloidosis. It is, however, the overwhelming cause of premature death in the breed.

Colchicine:

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Is a drug that has been in use in people with FMF to prevent amyloidosis. It is currently being recommended in Shar-Pei with FSF for the same purpose. No studies have been completed to determine if it is useful for this purpose in the Shar-Pei or not. The clinical impression is that it does help. Those dogs on colchicine seem to have fewer FSF episodes and less severe signs while on the drug. Side-effects appear to be minimal at this time and are primarily gastrointestinal such as vomiting, diarrhea, anorexia (decreased appetite), etc. Infection between the toes (Pododermatitis) and short-coated dog Pyoderma (skin infection) The short hairs of the Shar-pei (as with other short coated dogs) may actually impact inside hair follicles leading to skin infections. The enclosed spaces between the Shar-pei's wrinkles form excellent incubators for Staph and other bacteria thus leading to skin fold infections. In this condition, which usually involves the folds around the muzzle, skin becomes red and moist and soon begins to smell. Regular grooming is vital, as is inspection and cleaning of the skin folds. Brushing stimulates the production of important skin oils that are protective. Choosing a less wrinkled dog may be helpful in avoiding this problem. This situation may or may not be confined to the feet. The short, bristly fur of the Shar-pei with or without ingrown hairs may be responsible for this common syndrome. There are many possible causes of infection of the feet, including allergy, stress, demodectic mange and more. If your Shar-pei has itchy feet, it is likely that a skin biopsy will be needed to sort the possible causes. Demodectic Mange The demodectic mange mite lives inside the hair follicles of all normal dogs. The mite, Demodex canis, starts off as small dry areas on the head, chest, and legs of the Shar-Pei. Because the dog scratches to relieve the intense itching, the skin becomes red and raw with a leathery look about it. Check with your veterinarian for prescribed medication, shampoos, and other appropriate treatment. If your Shar-pei develops any kind of skin disease, your veterinarian will probably include a skin scraping for mites in the testing performed. Due to the unique nature of Shar-pei skin, often skin scrapes are not adequate for diagnosis and skin biopsy is needed to detect the mites (especially true with skin disease on the feet and between the toes).

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Ear Infections The Shar-pei's ear canal is often too narrow for the veterinarian to examine. This becomes a perfect breeding ground for all sorts of microbes and makes treatment almost impossible. Care should be taken in cleaning the ear thoroughly with a vet prescribed ear solution. Do not use a Q-tip to dig down in the ear canal. Use a make-up pad to gently clean the ear and then let the dog shake its head. Ear surgery may be required to control the infections. It may be helpful to attempt prevention with weekly use of a good ear disinfectant. Seborrhea Oleosa Severe rancid body odor, which comes from raw, scaly, bloody skin. Could be caused by hypothyroidism, yeast infections, and or food allergies. This situation should be immediately discussed with a veterinarian and the appropriate shampoos and medication can effectively treat this condition. Malocclusion Overbites are very common. This can occur due to the misplacement of the incisors causing an overcrowding. Extraction at a young age can prevent the adult canines from cutting into the hard palate. Tight Lip Syndrome This is where the excess flesh from the lower lip covers the teeth making it difficult for the Shar-Pei to chew. This excess flesh also traps food and is usually associated with an overbite. Two types of surgical repair are available. Surgery usually should be done early - around 3 months of age. One surgery involves resection of the skin of the chin. In this procedure the lower lip is pulled ventrally to expose the lower incisors. When this is done a fold of skin is created on the chin and an elliptical incision is made through the skin and subcutaneous tissue and the fold is removed. When the subcutaneous tissue and the cut edges of the skin are opposed the lower incisor teeth should remain exposed.. The second procedure is a cheiloplasty procedure. Here the lower lip is separated from the chin so the lip can heal in a more normal position.

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With the puppy on its back the lower lip is pulled down to expose the lower incisor teeth an incision is made along the mucogingival junction from the first premolar tooth on one side to the first premolar tooth on the other side. Some veterinarians prefer the cheiloplasty procedure over the chin skin resection procedure - they feel the chin skin resection results in decreased flexibility of the skin of the chin, which may prevent normal lengthening of the mandible. Also bear in mind this is a cosmetic surgery and these dogs cannot be shown in the American Kennel Club. . Nose - Stenotic Nares These dogs snore because of excess flesh. If the dog is unable to breathe air with ease, surgery to altar the folds of the nostril may be necessary. An "elongated soft palate" is likely to be the cause of "respiratory distress." Carpal Laxity This is a weakness is the carpal ligaments which causes instability and bowing forward in young puppies.Usually these pups are in the 6-10 week old range. This usually occurs in rapidly growing, heavy pups and is due to weakness of the ligaments in this area caused by excess weight occurring before adequate bone development. Many of these dogs are on higher protein puppy diets as well as additional vitamin and mineral supplements. Treatment involves: A visit to your veterinarian to rule out other problems affecting the carpii (wrists). Switching diets to adult maintenance food or puppy diets for large breed puppies. The goal here is to slow down the growth rate shooting for 2-3 pounds a week. You can feed 1 cup of dry food per 6 pounds of body weight per day up to a maximum of 4-6 cups per day. Stop all vitamin-mineral supplements. House and exercise the pups on surfaces with good footing. Try to avoid flooring consisting of tile, finished concrete, hardwood, linoleum, etc. Carpeting, grass, rubber matting, etc. all provide good traction for strengthening the legs. Rarely, soft wraps on the wrists are used initially to provide additional support while the above changes are being implemented. Usually the front legs will straighten up in 7-14 days. Pups that don't respond or in older pups X-rays should be taken to further evaluate for

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orthopedic problems such as premature closure of growth plates, bone cysts, and other problems Patellar Luxation This is a condition where the kneecap slips out of its socket. Any Shar-Pei with this condition should not be bred. Medial Luxations Often these are termed “congenital” due to the fact they occur early in life and are not associated with trauma. Luxation may not be present at birth but the anatomical deformities that predispose to these luxations are present at that time and are responsible for later problems. Medial luxation is much more common than lateral luxation in all breeds representing 70-80% of the cases with bilateral involvement seen 20-25% of the time. Chronic luxating patellas seem to predispose to anterior cruciate ligament rupture due to the forces exerted on the ligament by the abnormal alignment of the quadriceps mechanism. Patellar luxation is graded based on the following scale: Grade I — Intermittent patellar luxation causing the limb to be carried occasionally. The patella luxates at full extension but returns to normal position when released. With the patella in normal position the leg aligns normally. Grade II — Luxation occurs more frequently than in Grade I. The patella luxates easily. There is slight external rotation of the leg. Many dogs live with this grade for years before progressive arthritis causes more severe lameness. Grade III — Here the patella is permanently luxated with very noticeable external rotation of the leg. The trochlea shallow or flattened. There is moderate lameness. Grade IV — The patella is permanently luxated and the limb may be carried if unilateral. If bilateral the dog may move in a crouched position in the rear end with the limbs partly flexed and severely “toed-out”. Lateral Luxations Lateral patellar luxation is also known as genu valgum. Components of hip dysplasia such as coxa valga (increased angle of inclination of the femoral neck) and increased anteversion (excessive external rotation of the upper part of the femur relative to the lower part) of the femoral neck are seen in this condition. These deformities result in internal rotation of

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the femur, which displaces the quadriceps mechanism and patella laterally (externally). The most common finding is a knock-knee (genu valgum) stance. In mild cases surgical repair may not be necessary. Surgical repair can consist of soft tissue reconstruction or bone reconstruction or both. Without going into the actual surgical techniques, listed below are the soft tissue reconstruction procedures available: *Overlap of the lateral or medial retinaculum *Fascia lata overlap *Patellar/Tibial antirotational suture ligaments *Desmotomy/Capsulectomy *Quadriceps release The bone reconstructive procedures consist of: *Trochleoplasty *Trochlear chondroplasty *Recession sulcoplasty *Trochlear sulcoplasty *Transposition of the tibial tuberosity *Patellectomy *Osteotomy Post-operative care involves limiting exercise for 3-4 weeks with particular attention to preventing jumping. Post-op pain medication may be dispensed as indicated. Later, physical rehabilitation will be needed.

Hip Dysplasia A dysplastic dog has an abnormal hip joint where the femur and acetabulum are misaligned. This can range in severity from mild (controllable) pain to dogs in such agony they must be put down. Make sure the parents of any puppy you consider have been cleared of Hip Dysplasia through the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. Elbow Dysplasia The term “elbow dysplasia” encompasses a complex range of orthopedic disorders involving the elbow joint of the dog. In order to differentiate among the different causes of “elbow dysplasia” a combination of diagnostic tools are used including physical examination, orthopedic examination, radiology, gait analysis, CT (computed tomography), MRI (magnetic resonance imaging), arthroscopy and exploratory joint surgery.

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Recommendations in Shar-Pei:

o Use of large breed puppy diets, which are usually lower in protein and favor a slower growth rate. You can try for a growth rate of 2-3 pounds a week. Avoid excessive weight in pups.

o Avoid trauma by supervising activity and exercise periods. Especially be careful with stairs, jumping up on or down from furniture, uncontrolled behavior, etc.

o Provide firm footing for puppies at all times. o For those handlers training in agility I recommend only very

low jumps, low obstacles, slow weave poles and emphasize keeping the puppy under control to avoid sharp turns, abrupt stops, etc. Flat work is OK and provides good foundation for later training on obstacles.

Early diagnosis and treatment of elbow problems is very important to prevent lameness, premature arthritis and physical abnormalities in affected dogs. Consultation with a veterinary orthopedic surgeon is usually indicated for these problems. The earlier the treatment is initiated the better it is.

Regurgitation/Vomiting "Megaesophagus and or diaphramatic hernias may not be detected until the dog is much older when they will appear underweight or emaciated, with a history of vomiting. This is a developmental defect possibly a delayed maturation of the esophageal nueromuscular system. Mild cases in young dogs can improve with careful feeding." Feeding the dog by elevating the food in such a way as to raise the dog's front end. Putting food bowls on a stair or two and then allowing them some time to digest in the same position may help. Cutaneous Mucinosis Mucin is the substance in the Shar-Pei skin that causes all the wrinkling. It is clear and stringy and acts like glue in fight wounds. Some Shar-Peis have an excess of Mucin causing it to form clear bubbles on the skin that may rupture and ooze. May be associated with possible allergies and can be treated by “alternate day steroid therapy.” Torsion/Bloat

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Being one of the many deep chested breeds, bloat can occur in Shar-Pei. Although similar to colic in horses, "bloat and torsion occur when the stomach swells with gas and then twists and cuts off its blood supply. Without timely surgical intervention the condition is fatal. You must take the dog to see a veterinarian as soon as possible. Chronic Inflammatory Bowel Disease Often complicated by food allergies and or chronic stress diarrhea. Usually responds to a strict hypoallergenic diet. Allergies Some Shar-Pei are susceptible to allergies caused by food, grass, plants (indoor and outdoor), flea bite dermatitis an allergy based condition where the dog develops an itchy rash in reaction to flea saliva after being bitten. Try to keep the dog's living quarters and play area as flea free as possible. Other allergies are "Inhalant allergies" that causes the dog to lick his/her paws, scratch, and rub its muzzle. Eliminating the allergy's cause, using the correct type of shampoo and administering antihistamines or cortisone are common forms of treatment. Always consult a Shar-Pei knowledgeable veterinarian for proper treatment and care. In addition some breeders believe the Shar-Pei has a weakened immune system that makes it more susceptible to and less able to recover from airborne viruses such as parvo. This condition makes timely inoculation especially important.

Pneumonia in Shar-Pei Pups It often occurs in pups 8 - 16 weeks old and seems to come out of nowhere. The only specific signs, which may suggest pneumonia, are heavy breathing usually with an abdominal component and sometimes a productive cough. By the times these signs are present, you have a very sick puppy and generally have very little time to do much about it. Diagnosis must be quick, accurate and specific. A minimal database must include a CBC and a chest radiograph. The Vets are primarily interested in the white blood cell count (WBC). What they want to see in the sick pup is a high WBC with some young white blood cells called "bands". This would signal an appropriate response and that the pup is fighting the infection. A bad sign would be a normal or low WBC with high numbers of bands. This indicates the infection is winning and this pup may die. Radiographic signs of pneumonia are pretty classic and usually apparent on chest X-rays.

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It is also helpful to try to stretch out the wrinkles over the chest when the radiograph is taken. Those folds can often obscure the lung changes seen in pneumonia. Pneumonia appears as fluid in the lungs seen in the ventral (lowest) lung fields and located in the cranial (forward) lung lobes. Fluid may accumulate in one lung lobe, cover multiple lobes and also occur in both sides of the chest. The fluid will often obscure the heart shadow on a chest radiograph. The definitive diagnosis is based on a tracheal wash. In this procedure, a catheter is introduced into the trachea and sterile water is flushed into the trachea and then aspirated back out hopefully with the offending bacteria in it. This sample can then be cultured and an antibiotic sensitivity done. This procedure is usually done under sedation or light anesthesia and has some risk involved in it, especially in a sick pup, but the information gathered is critical to instituting the appropriate antibiotic therapy. What causes pneumonia in Shar-Pei pups? By the time we have a sick pup the lungs have been infected by bacteria. These are usually Gram (-) bacteria such as E. Coli, Klebsiella and Bordetella. Gram (+) cocci such as Streptococcus may also be isolated. It is also known that viruses such as canine distemper, adenovirus and parainfluenza can also cause pneumonia. Shar-Pei also may have an IgA deficiency which occurs in the vast majority of the dogs. IgA is a protective immunoglobulin found in body secretions such as tears, mucous, saliva, etc. It is responsible for local immunity in the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and urogenital systems as well as the skin. IgA deficiency may predispose an animal to bacterial pneumonia. Due to the wide range of underlying causes of bacterial pneumonia it is very important to autopsy any Shar-Pei who dies of pneumonia Treatment of pneumonia involves the use of antibiotic therapy based on the culture and sensitivity results obtained via the tracheal wash. Pending getting these results back from the laboratory, which may take 2-3 days it is necessary to use "Four Quadrant Therapy". This is antibacterial therapy effective against all bacterial groups - Gram (+) aerobes and anaerobes and Gram (-) aerobes and anaerobes. The initial choice can be aminoglycoside and a penicillin. Use of injectable medications is indicated initially. Another choice is the use of a fluoroquinolone and a penicillin. This has the advantage of being given orally. Once the culture and sensitivity results are back specific antibiotic therapy is based on those results. Many a times different antibiotic is used every 2 weeks for at least 4-6 weeks. The therapy should be continued for 2 weeks after the chest radiographs appear normal.

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There is a very real danger of not treating pneumonia long enough and having it recur with the possibility that the antibiotic therapy used either selected for a resistant strain of bacteria or a new bacteria is causing the problem. A "smoldering-type" pneumonia develops and can cause respiratory problems for a long time. This is more apt to occur when a tracheal wash - culture/sensitivity is not done. Injectable antibiotics may be used in a nebulizer which allows the antibiotic to be breathed into the deeper airways and reach the lungs. Additional therapy is supportive. Fluids (IV or subcutaneous) are very important to maintain hydration in the sick pup and to keep secretions thin. This allows the normal respiratory defense mechanisms such as coughing and ciliary function to clear the bacteria from the lungs. Use of a humidifier is useful in this regard. Adequate nutrition is vital to maintain energy levels in the pup and prevent secondary disease. Coupage (thumping the chest) is useful to stimulate coughing, mobilizing fluid in the chest and stimulate deep breaths to prevent collapsed lungs (atelectasis). Mild, frequent periods of exercise help to mobilize secretions and maintain the pup's interest and mental well-being. Maintaining a high level of suspicion for pneumonia in the 8 - 16 week-old puppy is the best way to discover the problem early and get treatment fast. Also remember that pneumonia isn't the only condition, which can result in a fever in pups - every fever is not pneumonia especially if not confirmed by the complete blood count and chest radiographs.

Vaccinology The subject of vaccines and vaccination protocols has become a hot topic in dog circles over recent years. Concerns have been raised about the increased incidence of immune-mediated diseases such as thromobytopenia (low platelet counts), hemolytic anemia (immune-mediated red blood cell destruction), immune-mediated arthritis and immune mediated skin disease as well as allergic vaccine reactions, seizures and other problems possibly related to vaccination. The first point that must be made is that the vaccines available today are very effective. Since the advent of vaccination programs in dogs the incidence of canine distemper, rabies, canine hepatitis, parvovirus, and parainfluenza (viral component of the "kennel cough" complex) have been dramatically reduced. During1980 the canine parvovirus epidemic had just begun and hundreds of thousands of dogs died due to lack of an

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effective vaccine. Now we hardly see a case of parvovirus and when we do it's in an inadequately vaccinated puppy or adult. Vaccination works by stimulating the immune system response to a mild dose of the disease-causing virus (modified-live virus vaccine) or killed form of the virus (killed vaccine). It is generally felt that MLV vaccines stimulate better and longer duration of immunity than killed vaccines. In response to the vaccination the immune system generates clones of lymphocytes capable of producing antibodies specific for that disease. Some of these cells are "memory cells" and will produce antibodies on re-exposure to the same disease or to a booster vaccination. Booster vaccination helps to maintain this population of memory cells, which allows a faster response to exposure to the disease later on. The presence of these memory cells and their protein products called antibodies is the basis for the concept of "titers". Titers are the antibody levels maintained by the memory cells in the blood stream. Over the years scientists have determined the levels of antibody needed to maintain protection against infection by different diseases - protective titers. Ideally, the frequency of vaccination should be based on the protective titer. One concern that has been raised is what constitutes a protective titer. This titer may vary from individual to individual, the age of the animal, stress factors and exposure potential. Some animals can be vaccinated every 2-4 years because they maintain a protective titer for that long. Other pets require more frequent vaccination intervals. The only way to verify the vaccination interval in a particular animal is to have the titer for a specific disease checked by a blood sample. The problem here is the expense involved to check titers vs. the expense of annual vaccinations. It is less expensive to vaccinate yearly than to check titers so annual vaccinations are recommended. We also vaccinate pets based on exposure potential. Not all pets have tick exposure so vaccinating for Lyme's disease is not necessary in all cases. Bordetella is the bacterial component of the kennel cough complex and again, not all dogs are at risk. The term "core vaccines" has been used to denote the vaccinations all dogs should have and consist of rabies, canine distemper, canine parvovirus, adenovirus and parainfluenza. Other vaccines, which can be added, based on exposure potential are leptospirosis, bordetella, coronavirus, and Lyme's. Vaccine reactions can and do occur although they are infrequent. Acute allergic reactions also known as "anaphylactic reactions" occur within 10-30 minutes of the vaccinations and consist of vomiting, diarrhea, collapse, depression, pale gums all consistent with a shock-like reaction. I consider this a life-threatening reaction and immediate veterinary attention is required. Treatment involves IV fluids, antihistamines, steroids, epinephrine and supportive care. Other reactions occur later

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(several hours) such as hive-like reactions with itching, swollen muzzle and face, fever, lameness and just not feeling well. These reactions are not considered life-threatening and immediate intervention is seldom necessary. Treatment consists of antihistamines, steroids and/or aspirin. Urinalysis The main information to evaluate on the urinalysis is the urine specific gravity and the urine protein. The specific gravity is a crude measure of kidney function. In the early stages of kidney failure the kidneys lose the ability to concentrate urine. This happens when about 75-80% of the kidney is non-functional. Blood changes occur when about 85-95% of the kidney tissue is not working properly so the urine sample gives us early information about kidney function. Amyloidosis in Shar-Pei tends to damage the medulla of the kidney, which is the area of the kidney responsible for the concentrating ability of the kidney. The urine protein gives us information about the glomerulus, which is the filtration unit of the kidney. Normally very little protein is lost in the urine. When the glomerulus is damaged due to amyloidosis, immune-mediated glomerulonephritis, etc. more protein appears in the urine. This can be quantified by doing a urine protein/creatinine ratio on the urine. I advise checking a urinalysis on Shar-Pei every 3 months to catch kidney failure early when dietary therapy and medications can be most useful especially in individuals with Familial Shar-Pei Fever.

Health and changes in Behavior Often the first sign of disease in the Shar-Pei is a change in behavior or personality. Thus, it is very important to know what the normal behavior of a particular dog is. While Shar-Pei possess several behavior traits in common, there certainly exists a wide variation among the dogs. The veterinarian is usually not aware of the "normal" behavior of a specific dog and must rely on the owner to furnish that information. Second,the owner must understand that the veterinarian may want to pursue diagnostic testing in order to determine if the behavior changes are caused by an underlying physical disease problem. Third, it must be realized that dogs can have emotional or mental disease. Fourth, the behavior of a dog can vary because of age, stress, environment,

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interactions with other animals and people, smells sounds, etc. Also we need to realize that behavior is not "static"-it changes over time. There can be considerable overlap between the behavioral changes related to disease and the physical disease itself. Behaviors are categorized into eating, drinking, sleeping, elimination, play, and a nebulous category known as "personality". Changes in personality are the most highly variable and difficult to grasp. Owners know when their pet is "not acting like herself", but cannot often describe this change in specific terms. Personality includes interactions with the owner, other people, other dogs and other animals and covers areas such as aggression, dominance, territoriality, etc. Disease can influence behavior in several ways. Diseases such as liver disease, kidney disease, diabetes mellitus, bacterial diseases resulting in septicemia such as pyometra and others are associated with the accumulation of waste products in the blood which effect the brain causing depression, slow mentality and changes in personality. Other diseases can cause generalized weakness, which can affect the dog's responses and behavior. Addison's (hypoadrenocorticism), myasthenia gravis, and hypothyroidism are examples of diseases causing weakness. Diseases resulting in fever can manifest as changes in behavior and personality. Familial Shar-Pei Fever is a prime example of this. Shar-Pei in an FSF episode show several typical behavior changes related to the fever and pain of the disease - decreased appetite, decreased activity, pain often with aggression, and personality changes which alert the owner that this dog is sick. Aggression often manifests itself in diseases characterized by pain. Examples include FSF (painful hocks), degenerative joint disease (arthritis), abscesses, some types of cancer, glaucoma, etc. There are primary behavioral disorders in dogs now being studied. These include separation anxiety, obsessive-compulsive disorders and others. These can be managed through behavior modification and drug therapy. Perhaps some forms of aggression and dominance behavior also fit into this category. What clues tell us that a change in behavior might be caused by disease? The following are general guidelines: Duration of the abnormal behavior. The longer the abnormal behavior continues the greater the chance it is caused by an underlying disease process. Behavior changes vs. personality changes. Changes in behavior are more often associated with disease than are changes in personality. Behavior changes with accompanying physical changes. Behavior changes with physical changes such as weight loss, vomiting, diarrhea, etc. are more often associated with disease.

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Abrupt changes in behavior. Generally, rapid changes in behavior are associated with a disease process. Often, specific behavior changes help to pinpoint the problem. A dog with a head tilt and constant scratching of the ear on that side probably has an ear infection. A dog that begins to strain to urinate and urinate more often probably has some type of urinary problem. Other changes in behavior are not specific enough to help us define the problem. An example is loss of appetite. Can the dog eat, but he chooses not to? Or is the dog physically unable to eat? Or is the dog not eating as much as the owner thinks he should? Another aspect of behavior involves hormonal influences in intact animals. Almost any behavior change, which occurs during a female's heat cycle, can be normal. Most females tend to not show extreme behavior changes, but the changes in behavior seen tend to be consistent for that individual. Males, likewise, can show behavior changes when females are in heat. Many males show decreased appetite and increased activity in the spring and fall coinciding with the heat cycles of females. Some males become irritable at these times of the year as well resulting in aggression or increased territorial behavior. Many behaviors are caused by emotional problems. These can be due to changes in environment, routine, pack order, loss of another dog or family member, etc. In this category we place obsessive-compulsive disorders, separation anxiety, overly aggressive behaviors, destructive chewing, inappropriate elimination and others. Here we get into the "genetic vs. environment" controversy - are emotional problems inherited or related to early social interactions? In conclusion, there are not really specific changes in behavior, which serve as a marker for specific diseases. Changes in behavior tell us a problem exists and then it's up to the veterinarian and the owner to begin to piece the puzzle together. Very often this involves preliminary diagnostics such as blood work, radiographs, urinalysis, etc. The real challenge often involves some detective work to determine what changes in the dog's environment may have contributed to the problem.

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Chapter 3 Feeding Your Shar-Pei

Food allergies may cause skin and stomach diseases. This breed should have a well-balanced, preservative free diet and one that is low in protein, approximately (16-21%). Some alternatives to rawhide and store bought treats are raw or cooked vegetables (but nothing from the cabbage family or onions) and most fruits such as bananas, apricots, apples, etc. are also healthy alternatives to store bought treats. No table scraps because we tend to dress up our vegetables with butter, margarine, salt, sugar, and/ or gravy. Anything with soya or beef, dyes, or chemical preservatives liked BHA, BHT, or Exthoxyquin should be avoided. Instead look for foods that are preserved with vitamins A, C, or E. A chemical-free food is often enough to make a huge difference in a dog's health.

Feeding Puppies: Due to the variation in size and energy level of each individual puppy, feeding schedules may vary. Check the amounts given on the food bag and adjust accordingly to your puppy's needs. Formula for puppies newborn to two weeks: (litter quantity: start with ½ ounce each feeding and gradually increase) 1 can of condensed milk and (1 can of water) 2 eggs (scrambled, poached)

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1 tbs. of corn syrup or corn oil 1tbs. of liquid vitamins (Pet-tinic is recommended) It is not encouraged to feed puppies this young on purpose. Hopefully, mother Shar-pei will do her duty, but there are always exceptions to this rule. Mom may get sick or not recover properly to feed her litter and then you must step in to save your puppies. Use a normal size bottle and nipple for your puppy. Find a comfortable position for you and the puppy as natural as if it were his mother. Don't raise the bottle too much or too fast, let the puppy work a little for his meal, but don't overtire. This will develop his muscles so that he may develop naturally when older. Feed six to eight times a day, depending on quantity fed. Formula for puppies two weeks and older: (litter quantity-average ½ to 1 cup per puppy) 4 cups of baby cereal (rice or oatmeal) 2 eggs (scrambled, poached) 1 can of condensed milk and (1 can of water) 1 tbs. of corn syrup or corn oil 1 tbs. of liquid vitamins (Pet-Tinic) You can feed young puppies four times a day and allow young puppies to feed only for 5 to 10 minutes each meal, and then pick up the dish until the next meal. Puppies are known to overfeed, and will bloat or get sick if they eat too much. Supervise closely during meals. After seven to ten days of this formula, we will gradually change the food of each puppy to ½ cup of puppy food (made soft by water), 1 tbs canned food, & a tsp of Pet-Tinic. After about eight to twelve weeks, a puppy should be able to handle dry puppy food, canned food, and vitamins (you can switch to Pet-Tabs). Make sure that the puppy is chewing his food and not choking it down. Add water when necessary, or alternate wet and dry meals. Increase the portion to 1 cup and feed only three times a day. By the time the puppy is four months old, try to stop adding water to its' food. Keep water plentiful, but separated from the food dish. At six months of age, your puppies should be weaned of wet food. By this time, the adult teeth are in and need to be kept clean. Feed only twice a day, adding canned food or cooked hamburger when necessary. It is important to stay consistent to avoid health problems. Usually, all puppies remain on this schedule until their first birthday. It usually ends up about two cups twice a day, unless you are still adding canned food, then decrease one cup. Of course there are always exceptions to the rules. If your puppy is experiencing a strong growth

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period, it may need more to eat, or the opposite may happen, it may go off its food once in awhile. This is no cause for concern unless it continues. Watch for loose or strange looking stools. Stop feeding canned food if there is a problem. As long as your puppy is neither too thin nor too fat, it will remain on puppy growth until one year of age. If your puppy is too fat, consider mixing puppy food with adult formula to cut down on calories. If your puppy is too thin, continue with a third meal or add calories (like canned food). Call your vet if you have any concerns about your puppy's health or feedings. Feeding Adults: For adults, food conditions may vary, according to type of living environment, such as areas prone to allergies or if in contact with sensitive plants or vegetation. You should maintain consistency for sake of the dog's digestive system, with same or similar brand adult formulas from ProPlan, Sensible Choice, NutroMax, or Diamond. If there is a show dog, a performance formula and supplemental stress vitamins may be necessary. For pregnant bitches, we usually feed them the puppy growth, daily multi-vitamins, vitamin C (500mg) tablets, and additional calcium (tablets, cottage cheese, yogurt) when nursing. Depending on the development of your Shar-pei, adult formula is first introduced from six to eighteen months. If prior to the first birthday, it is usually mixed (50/50) with puppy growth to reduce calories for big eaters or inactive puppies. If after the first birthday, it is because your puppy hasn't filled out enough or is an active personality requiring more energy to grow. Adults, once fed adult formula, usually require only one large meal or two small meals a day. Any signs of vomiting or nausea could mean that your Shar-pei is not eating enough. This can be easily corrected by adding supplements like canned food, scrambled eggs, or cottage cheese to the morning meals. I don't encourage overuse of these items, since we lack knowledge in what really causes toxin buildup in animals that leads to organ damage and cancerous tumors. The best knowledge to a successful plan is when the end results in a happy fit dog. Call your vet if you are concerned about losing weight or recurring vomiting. These may be signs of a more complicated problem than picky eating. During the winter, whether Shar-pei puppy or adult may require supplements, such as adding safflower or fish oil and use skin

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moisturizers, to eliminate dry skin problems caused by winter. You could also use a daily vitamin to keep your Shar-pei extra healthy and strong to avoid unnecessary illnesses. Viruses can be very difficult to treat, especially in puppies or stressed adults, and may cause harmful, even deadly, reactions to a dog. This adult schedule can be maintained until your Shar-pei starts to slow down, at about five to seven years of age. As with any older dog, diet needs to be adjusted to meet a slower/older lifestyle. A lower protein and fat food (Pro Plan offers a light formula), offered in two or three meals, will keep a Shar-pei happy the rest of its' life. Do not allow your older dog to gain unnecessary weight. It not only slows them down, it will make them more injury/health prone. For Chinese Shar-pei (as in most breeds) receiving proper exercise, diet, and current immunizations will determine your dog's future health. It is up to each owner to see that their Shar-pei is given the proper health, nutrition, and medical care to live a happy life. 10-Step Natural Health Program If you build up your dog's immune system, it will be strong enough to fight off most illnesses all on its own. These ten steps are the building blocks for building your dog's immune system: * Real homemade food, rather than kibble or canned food * All-natural, human-grade kibble (if you can't make real food) * Spring water, rather than chlorinated/fluoridated from the tap * Raw meaty bones for strong white teeth * Minimal chemicals in your home and yard * Limited vaccinations * Holistic veterinary care, rather than drug-based * Neutering to avoid reproductive problems * Natural home remedies for simple health problems * Some knowledge on your part about more serious health problems, so that you will be able to understand what your vet says

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Dietary Protein This is still an area of controversy between clinicians and nutritionists, but research is providing more insight concerning the role of dietary protein in the management of the kidney failure patients. Just read the current thinking on this subject and come to your own conclusions. There is a link between dietary protein levels and the clinical signs of kidney failure.

• Once dogs have developed signs of uremia such as decreased appetite, vomiting, depression, electrolyte changes, GI ulceration, increased BUN and creatinine and weight loss, then decreasing the protein content of the diet is indicated these signs. Decreasing the protein content of the diet prior to the onset of clinical signs does not affect the progression of kidney failure. The pathogenesis of kidney failure is not clear and the rate of progression is variable.

• We know that increasing the protein in the diet results in increased blood flow to the kidneys - this occurs in both healthy dogs and those with decreased kidney function.

• Increased levels of dietary protein do not seem to change the rate of progression of kidney failure. Protein levels in the diet do not seem to affect mortality, rate of progression of uremia or the development of kidney lesions.

• Decreased protein levels in the diet may impair immune responses, decrease hemo-globin levels, cause anemia, decrease total protein levels and result in muscle wasting.

• Phosphorus restriction is an important factor in management of dogs with kidney failure.

• 3/4 to 15/16 of the kidney mass must be lost before progression of kidney failure occurs.

• When protein restriction is initiated fat and carbohydrate levels must be increased to provide alternate energy sources.

Much of the research in kidney failure and diet have been done in rats, dogs who have had surgically induced kidney failure and geriatric dogs with progressive kidney failure due to age-related changes. Does this information pertain to dogs with amyloidosis, immune-mediated kidney diseases or inflammatory kidney diseases? Studies need to be done to address these scenarios. The information available can be used to formulate the following general guidelines:

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• Feed a diet with a protein level, which fits the dog's activity level. Couch potatoes on a high protein diet become obese leading to other problems.

• Dietary protein levels do not appear to be involved in the progression of renal disease or play a role in the prevention of kidney failure. The protein levels in the 20-24 % range are probably safe. Of course other factors enter in such as the protein source, the bio availability of the protein, fat content, carbohydrate levels, etc. must be considered as well.

• When the BUN is greater than 75mg/dl and/or signs of uremia develop, moderate protein restriction is indicated to decrease the BUN and the clinical signs. Phosphorus restriction is also indicated at this time. This is most easily done with the available commercial kidney diets on the market.

• What this also means is that these dogs must be monitored closely to follow changes in the BUN and creatinine levels. It is generally observed that Shar-Peis indicate clinical signs of kidney failure very late in the course of the condition when their BUN and creatinine levels are extremely elevated. Often, Shar-Pei owners miss the very subtle early changes and present their dogs when it's too late.

Diet does not appear to play a major role in prevention of kidney disease in Shar-Pei at this time. I think avoiding substances and situations which result in kidney damage are preventative steps that can be taken. Certain drugs such as aminoglycoside antibiotics can cause kidney damage and should be avoided, when possible. Decreased kidney blood flow can lead to kidney damage emphasizing the importance of IV fluids administered during anesthetic procedures and use of monitoring equipment. Situations, which result in low blood flow to the kidneys such as heat stroke, bloat, and shock, must also be avoided. Infectious diseases can also result in kidney damage. These include bacterial kidney disease, heartworm, leptospirosis, Lymes disease, etc. Toxins such as ethylene glycol (antifreeze) and arsenic can cause kidney damage as well. To a large extent we can prevent some of these things. The major emphasis has to be monitoring the dogs so the onset of kidney failure is uncovered early in the course of the disease when dietary manipulations may be useful.

Tips On Feeding

Proper diet is very important for the longevity and health of your Shar-Pei. Most pets become overweight and inactive if they are allowed to eat what they want. A fat dog is not a healthy dog and will have a greatly decreased lifespan.

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Recommendations:

1. Puppy diets with or without water are best until the pup is 4-6 months old. Stick with brand name diets such as Iams, Purina, Pedigree and others. Currently you can go in for the puppy diets for large breed puppies made by Eukanuba® (Iams) and Purina. These diets help to maintain a slower growth rate. Don’t feed according to the bag directions — usually 1 cup per 6 pounds of body weight is adequate. In the Shar-Pei a desired growth rate is 2-3 pounds a week.

2. In pups up to 3 months feed 3 meals per day. In pups from 3-6 months gradually change from 3 meals per day to 2 meals per day. In pups over 6 months feed 2 meals per day.

3. Try not to give canned dog foods. Most Shar-Pei will not overeat on dry food. If you do give canned foods, mix it with dry foods and make sure the mixture is at least 3 parts dry food to 1 part canned food. Mix the food together thoroughly so the dog will not eat only the canned food and leave the dry food.

4. Do not give table scraps. 5. Never give steak, pork, chicken or turkey bones. The only bones

permitted are large beef knucklebones. 6. Nylon bones and rawhide bones make good toys. Rawhide bones

should be large enough to last your dog 2-3 weeks. Don’t use rawhide sticks or chips — don’t let your dog eat rawhide. Avoid pig’s ears and cow hooves —Shar-Pei usually eat these or swallow them and get into trouble.

7. What diet you feed your adult Shar-Pei should be based on the dog’s activity level, coat quality, stool quality such as volume, consistency, frequency and the dog’s general well-being. If you’re not happy with any of these criteria then consider a diet change.

8. Avoid changing your dog’s diet too often. If a diet change is necessary do so gradually by mixing the foods over a 1-2 week period.

General Guidelines on Feeding Shar-Pei

1. You can feed your Shar-Pei at least twice a day. This decreases the begging behavior and may decrease the incidence of bloat.

2. Obesity is a very common dog problem. It is essential to balance the dog’s activity and food intake. It is common sense to understand that an inactive dog requires fewer calories to maintain body weight. The converse is also true — a very active dog requires

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more calories. The solution is simple — feed according to your dog’s activity level.

3. Realize that there are some dogs that do not eat every meal or even every day. This may represent the dog’s way of maintaining its body weight. If we entice a dog such as this to eat every meal we may circumvent this natural tendency to be slim and trim.

4. Most Shar-Peis are less active in the winter and more active in the summer. This means we need to decrease the amount of food they get during the times of the year coinciding with decreased activity and increase the amount of food when activity increases. The reverse may be true with brushcoats and bearcoats who tolerate the winter much better than horsecoats.

5. Older dogs tend to decrease their activity and we need to decrease the amount of food they get. Older dogs also tend to develop age-related joint problems, which also decrease activity and require diet adjustment. Switching older dogs to a “senior” or “lite” diet can be helpful in preventing obesity but may not be the total answer. It is still sometimes necessary to decrease even the amounts of these diets in order to maintain body weight. Current nutritional research indicates that senior dogs require higher protein levels than have been fed in the past. These higher protein levels are necessary to maintain muscle mass, to maintain the immune system and for overall general health. If your dog is having trouble maintaining body weight and muscle mass then going back to an adult maintenance diet may be useful.

6. Vitamin supplements may become necessary in dieting dogs. 7. You can give your dog canned pumpkin (not pumpkin pie filling) is

a good way to fill the dog up without increasing calories or “starving” the dog.

8. Measuring the food is extremely important! This allows us to make adjustments in amounts of food in an accurate way. It also helps your veterinarian to evaluate your feeding regimen.

9. Use of stainless steel or ceramic food and water bowls. Otherwise, you can occasionally see a de pigmentation on the front of the muzzle and chin in those dogs that have plastic or vinyl bowls. This is due to a contact allergy, which can occur due to the release of chemicals from the plastic/vinyl that occurs over time.

Some Comments On Alternative Diets Your basic philosophy on diets should be to feed what your dog thrives on.

1. Raw food diets make their appearance every 7-10 years. Early on diets were formulated to prevent bloat and consisted of whole chickens cooked in a pressure cooker. Now the BARF (Bones And Raw Food) diet is the vogue. But for most of us the commercial

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diets are the best. You should feed your dog a diet that is nutritionally balanced, easy to feed, doesn’t require a lot of work to prepare and has a long history of consistent results behind it. Most of the commercial dog food companies have research/quality control facilities, on-going research and development, have been producing dog foods for several decades and publish nutritional research in veterinary journals and proceedings.

2. There have been several recent veterinary articles concerning bacterial contamination of raw food incorporated into dog diets. Certainly this speaks to the need to wash vegetables, keep food preparation surfaces clean and store the diets properly.

3. Supplements such as vitamins, minerals and other things like kelp, herbs, glucosamine, chondroitin sulfate, etc. are often added to diets. But remember, that additives can interact producing undesired results. Examples such as decreased copper absorption due to zinc over-supplementation, calcium-phosphorous interactions leading to growth abnormalities, biotin deficiency and raw eggs and numerous other interactions must be considered before supplementing diets.

4. The use of prescription diets under veterinary supervision is a useful therapeutic and diagnostic tool. More cases of food allergy, food reaction, food intolerance and food hypersensitivity are being diagnosed and diet manipulation is very important. These are usually commercially produced diets, which are balanced to meet the nutritional requirements of dogs.

Treats: Everyone wants to give their puppy a snack once in a while. Here are a few guidelines on what NOT to feed: BONES: chicken, pork, and even steak bones can break, splinter, or get lodged inside your dog causing an emergency situation. It is recommended to stay with bones made for dogs. TABLE SCRAPS: fats and sweets can throw off a Shar-pei internal system causing vomiting or diarrhea. Avoid large quantities until you know what he can handle. Chocolate is especially toxic and should be avoided completely.

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Chapter 4 Grooming & Taking Care Of Your

Shar-Pei

Shar-Peis are instinctively clean and are very easily housetrained. This makes them easy to care for. There are however, special considerations when caring for dogs of this breed. Every breed has its inherent strengths and weaknesses. The hereditary areas of weakness in the Chinese Shar-Pesi are the eyes and skin. Entropion is an eye problem that causes the puppy's eyelids to roll inward. As a result, the eyelashes rubbing against the cornea cause acute distress. Symptoms of eye problems include pawing at the eyes and excessive tearing. I have found it very useful to use lubricating eye drops in the puppy’s eyes once a day. Especially when still teething, moulting or when in season. There is a chance that your Shar-Pei's eyes may blink or water slightly, something which can also happen if your Shar-Pei is stressed. This will usually subside when the temporary problem has been solved. The

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face, and around the back of the ears, can be bathed with a mild solution of salt water and polysporin drops may be used if necessary. Always take care not to transfer infection from one eye to the other; Be sure to use a different piece of cotton wool to bathe each eye. Another area of particular concern is the ear. Because the ears are so small, it is important that they be checked on a weekly basis, so that any sign of infection can be detected right away. There is some very good ear cleaning solutions available at your vet’s office. These make ear cleaning easy with the aid of some cotton wool. Be sure not to delve too deeply into the ear canal, for this could cause serious damage. Any scratching at the ear or shaking of the head is a clear signal that something is causing irritation, so check them as soon as possible. Wherever your Shar-Pei is to spend time, there must be suitable bedding and it is essential that this is kept clean. Always keep in mind that draughts and dampness must be excluded at all costs, and there must be access to shade when the weather is hot. Shar-Peis like to have a their own bed. Again remember that it should be kept scrupulously clean, so that parasites do not make a home here. During puppy and adulthood, remember to keep a record so that your Shar-Pei's vaccinations are adequately boosted, including kennel cough. Last, but certainly not the least, enjoy your Shar-Pei and always treat him/her with kindness.

Low Maintenance

The Shar-Pei requires minimal maintenance. Brushing with a good bristle brush every other day keeps its unique coat in excellent condition. You can bathe him occasionally using warm water and a good shampoo recommended by a vet. Contrary to popular belief the Shar-Peis do not need to be bathed every week. The Shar-Pei coat is one of those canine coats, which tends not to give off a "doggy" odor, even when it is wet. Its natural coarseness also has a tendency to repel dirt, which is an added bonus. Constant bathing will make the skin dry (increase itching) and cause the coat to look dull. By doing this you will wash away the dogs natural oils.

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Only bathe the dog if he/ she smells with a vet recommended shampoo for general bathing needs. The nails of a Shar-Pei grow fast so frequent clipping is in order. Always touch your puppy's paws and the puppy all over to get them used to grooming. Because the Shar-Pei has tiny ears frequent cleaning is a must. Usually once every week or every two weeks depending on the individual dog. Use cotton swabs or make-up pads (cotton ones) with an ear solution from your vet. Do not use Q-tips as it may push the waxy build-up further down the ear canal. After you have cleaned the ears let them shake and then later clean the excess. The ears, eyes, and the whole body in general should be inspected frequently to have a happy, healthy Shar-Pei. Most Shar-pei do not require regular grooming, but the most difficult time for puppy coat care may be during the adolescent months. After puberty, allergies, thyroid, or immune imbalance are the leading causes of most "hot spots", rashes, or continual hair loss. No matter what some people say, it is NOT normal for a Shar-pei to have skin infestations, and these problems must be treated to prevent additional problems. Don't leave mud or other debris on the coat or between the toes for any longer than necessary. Use a consistent flea control to prevent infestation. Teeth should be cleaned often (weekly with a dog toothbrush or washcloth) starting when you can see plaque buildup. All of these habits should be introduced during the puppy's growing months to ensure good habits for the rest of its life. Good habits help your dog look better and stay healthier. Odor in Shar-Pei Odor in Shar-Pei can emanate from several areas: Mouth odor -- usually due to dental problems, lip folds infections; chin infection, and mouth tumors. Bad breath can also occur with kidney failure (uremic poisoning), dehydration, oral injuries, oral foreign objects or be diet related. Ear problems --yeast infections, bacterial infections, food and hay fever- type allergies. Eyes -- associated with increased drainage due to entropion, mucopurulent discharge seen in keratoconjunctivitis sicca ("dry eye"), glaucoma, rubbing and itching the eyes related to allergic disease (hay fever, food) and increased tearing with prolapsed gland of the third eyelid ("cherry eye").

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Skin problems -- bacterial pyoderma (infections) and/or Malassezia (yeast) dermatitis. These are usually secondary to endocrine skin disease such as hypothyroidism, hay fever-type allergies, food allergies, nutritional problems, parasitic dermatitis as occurs in demodectic/sarcoptic mange and with flea problems. Infected bite wounds can be another common cause of odor to the skin especially noticeable a few days after a dogfight. Odor with skin disease is usually caused by the dog's licking and chewing due to itching. Skin irritation due to any cause results in an increase in skin oil production. When the excess oil is broken down by organisms such as bacteria and yeast a "ranchid" odor is produced. Feet - often odor to the feet is secondary to the same problems as discussed under skin problems. The feet are a particular target for licking and chewing associated with allergic disease such as atopy (hay fever- type allergy) and food allergy. Perineum (anal area) - certainly there are "normal" odors associated with flatulence or gas. Abnormal odors can be associated with diarrhea, colitis, tumors around the rear end and especially anal gland problems such as abscesses, infection and impaction. Socialization It is necessary to socialize a Shar-Pei puppy well, before it leaves for it's new home. This is done normally, on a constant basis by the breeder from the beginning of their life, so that you will have a well adjusted pet in the future. Playtime is also very important in a puppy’s life. During play puppies learn what is and isn't acceptable behavior. With the proper encouragement a puppy learns to inhibit his/her biting and aggressiveness. At the same time playing helps puppies discover the limitations of their bodies and the world around them. Playing also reinforces social bonds between group members. Because your dog considers you his leader and best friend playing brings you closer together. Playing encourages your puppy to exercise and release it's energy in a positive and productive way.

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Chapter 5 Training Your Shar Pei

Shar-Peis are believed to have preserved some qualities of a wild animal. The Shar-Pei was forced to develop a strong personality, since it used to be a working and fighting dog in China. A Shar-Pei puppy will need obedience classes to become well behaved. Shar-Peis are not barkers and don't normally have a mischievous nature. Nevertheless, a puppy cannot be expected to turn into a model dog without any effort on your part. Training Tips for you and your Pet (1) Bonding with your pet results in a quicker, more responsive training reaction. Despite some dog trainer’s contempt for more independent breeds, it's not a matter of intelligence that makes certain breeds harder to train, but the way in which you choose to communicate with your pet. In other words, you must speak with a voice and body language they understand, or you won't ever anything. (2) Every adult dog has been genetically given temperament traits of dominance, submission, and independence, which may be modified by

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training but can never be completely removed. You must learn to respect your dog's given genetics and use the suggested behavior modification techniques to overcome undesirable traits or behaviors. (3) The most important aspects to successful training are focused on getting the dog's full attention and consistently responding to its behavior. Therefore, it is considered essential for beginners to work in controlled environments in order reach these goals. We strongly suggest novice trainers attend organized obedience classes, which are usually provided by local dog-training clubs or businesses. Most dog breeds also benefit from the added socializing, with people and other animals, plus the support that builds self-confidence for you and your pet. (4) Don't forget to have fun!!! You would have come across several unhappy, frustrated owners training equally unhappy pets. We all want to see timely results when working with our pets, but if your pets can't find enjoyment and positive social interaction from the training process, they will not respond to the training method. Keep your voice and attitude positive, making a point to praise correct behavior. What is Behavior Modification? Behavior Modification, psychological methods for treating maladjustment and for changing observable behavior patterns. In the behavior modification process, the procedures used are monitored so that changes can be made when necessary. Most Common Method to Apply Behavior Modification Systematic desensitization, the most widely used technique, attempts to treat disturbances having identifiable sources, such as a paralyzing fear of closed spaces. This method usually involves training the individual to relax in the presence of fear-producing stimuli. The anxiety reaction will be replaced gradually with the new relaxation response; this is called reciprocal inhibition. . The Importance of Behavior Modification Training Behavior modification training can become a very useful strategy for pet owners to help their dog overcome fears and stressful experiences. As compared to human behavior, it's like Christmas for a young child, or a shy adult that suffers from social anxiety, both of whom may be overwhelmed with too much excitement or activity to handle at once. Socializing builds self-esteem and confidence, thereby eliminating the newness of potential trouble situations, or pet owners may run the risk their dog will respond in an instinctive defensive canine behavior. Specific Techniques of Canine Systematic Desensitization Touching - Some Shar-pei are fearful or panic in circumstances that involve being touched, for example, grooming, vet care, or even a simple

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bath. That is why part of your adolescent training must involve personal handling, by you and other people, including holding feet, touching ears, opening their mouth, in a constrained environment. De-sensitizing will reduce the risk of injury to your pet during these routine events. Socializing - Another common problem for Shar-Pei owners is aggression around strangers or other animals. The reason why aggressiveness usually develops is because pet owners may not know or think to socialize until the dog is older. Yet training experience has proven that early socializing may begin once the pup has had it's first few shots and must continue consistently to prevent, or at least generally control, potential for aggression. Socializing is essentially mandatory for extremely dominant or submissive personalities to overcome or tolerate everyday situations that life may generally offer. What To Teach Your Puppy-When He Is 8 Weeks Old

• His home and schedule. Where his water dish is. Where his food dish is. What time he eats. Where his bed is. What time he goes to bed. What time he gets up. Where he goes to the bathroom. When he will be taken out to the bathroom. What time he goes for a walk. Where are his toys are kept.

• Puppies love routines. They feel reassured and safe when they know where everything is and when they're on a predictable schedule. Routines reassure your puppy that, regardless of the unfamiliarity of his new world, everything is predictable. Routines reassure him that he knows what comes next, that his world is the same as it was yesterday, and that it will be the same tomorrow. Routines reassure him that YOU are dependable, that he can count on you to say and do the same thing

• What "No" means. To stop what he's doing when you say "No!" or "Ah-ah!" or "Stop that."

• Housebreaking. An 8-week-old puppy is still an infant. You can start introducing him to his bathroom spot and commit yourself to taking him out every couple of hours, but it will be several months before his internal organs are developed enough for reliability. Smaller breeds are especially slow to housebreak, with many toy breeds not being reliable until eight months of age.

• Crate training. To go willingly into his crate and stay there quietly. • Being handled. Standing patiently (more or less!) while you brush

his coat, sitting quietly while you clip his nails, opening his mouth while you brush his teeth.

• Gentleness. To take things gently from your hand, and to release things on your request. No grabbing or biting or clinging grimly to anything.

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At 3-4 months old, your puppy should learn

• To sit. And to STAY sitting. Yes, even when you walk away from him. Yes, even when distractions tempt him to move.

• To lie down. • To look directly at you when you say his name. • To come when called. Always. • To never run away from you. • To walk politely on the leash. • To drop whatever is in his mouth when you tell him to. • To stop barking when you tell him to. • To get along with people and other animals.

At 4-6 months old, your puppy should learn

• To listen attentively when spoken to. • To wait inside your door or gate. Even when it opens. Even when

there are distractions tempting him outside. • To play fetch -- to bring his ball or toy back to you after you throw

it. • To stay lying down for a half-hour while you do normal household

chores. • To greet guests politely. • To do tricks! Shake hands. Speak. Play dead. Roll over. Dance.

Circle. • To recognize the individual names of all the members of your

family -- and to search for someone who is hiding.

How Owners Can Help To Make Their Puppy Turn Out Well

• Respond appropriately if your puppy ignores the word "No" • Use the right tone of voice and facial expression when talking to

your puppy • Respond appropriately if you call your puppy and he doesn't come • Socialize your puppy carefully with other animals and with

strangers • Respond appropriately if your puppy acts aggressively or fearfully

toward other dogs or strangers • Give your puppy just the right amount of petting and cuddling • Respond appropriately if your puppy darts away from you when

you're trying to catch him.

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• Say and do the right things whenever you have to leave your puppy home alone

• Talk to your puppy in ways that he understands • Respond appropriately if your puppy fusses or protests while being

groomed • Use the right collar and leash for training • Teach your puppy to calm down when you decide playtime is over • Choose the right sleeping place for your puppy • Housebreak your puppy slowly and carefully • Clean up accidents with the right cleaner so he won't be led to that

spot again • Respond appropriately if your puppy "pees" when he gets excited or

nervous

Housebreaking Your Dog If owners could choose only one skill they wanted their dog to have, housebreaking would top the list. Shar-pei are very easy to house train, in fact, they do most of it themselves. Any time the puppy has eaten, has finished playtime, or wakes from a nap, take time to take him outside. Your puppy will be trained by two to four months. Just remember, consistency is the key to success. But you have to keep two things in mind: Confining your dog to ensure that it cannot go to the bathroom in the wrong places. Constant or regular access to the bathroom. Confinement from the wrong places Confinement means that until your dog is housebroken, he is never allowed to walk freely around the house. Confinement means every minute, every hour of every day -- unless you are sitting with your dog, playing with him, walking him, feeding him, grooming him, teaching him something, or otherwise interacting with him. Because if he is loose and you take your eyes off him for just a few moments, he can go to the bathroom on your floor -- and the bad habit is begun. Access to the right place This means you take your dog outside -- or he lets himself outside through a doggy door. Or it means you provide him with newspapers or a litter box indoors. He must have somewhere to "go" -- on a regular, reliable basis.

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If the only place your dog has a chance to "go" is outside on a regular schedule, or on newspapers or in a litter box, that's the habit he will develop. If you let him loose in the house, then he can GO anywhere in the house, and that's the habit he will develop. It's up to you!

1. Confinement in a crate. The best way to house train a dog is by Crate Training. This means every time that your puppy is unsupervised, he goes into the crate, or an exercise pen if you are away a lot. This prevents any accidents in the carpet or damage to your home. After the puppy is about six to twelve months old, slowly allow him his freedom, depending on your circumstances. Crate training is not cruel in any way.

• This is the most common and most effective method of housebreaking. Whenever you're not interacting directly with your dog, he is safe in his crate.

• You can also tie his leash to your belt so he accompanies you around the house. But keep your EYE on him, so he doesn't pee on the floor right at your feet!

• On a regular basis throughout the day, you take him outside to a specific potty area to go to the bathroom.

2. Confinement in an exercise pen. Constant access to newspapers or a litter box.

• If you're gone more than four hours a day, consider this method of housebreaking for small dogs.

• A litter box appeals to many people because it looks tidier than newspapers, and is easier to clean. However, litter boxes work best for really tiny dogs such as Chihuahuas, Maltese, and Yorkshire Terriers. And a litter box is more natural for females and neutered males who don't lift their legs. Males who lift their leg will sprays urine everywhere.

• A cat litter box is too shallow for dogs. They tend to back up to the edge and leave their deposits on or over the edge. Use a clear plastic storage bin from Wal-Mart. Cut a squared-off U-shape in

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one side to make a step-over entrance, leaving enough of the box below the entrance to keep the litter in.

• Don't use regular cat litter! Regular litter, sticks to your pet's feet and coat and ends up in his stomach when he licks himself. Litter that "clumps" when it gets wet also "clumps" in your pet's stomach, causing impactions. Litter also contains chemicals, antibacterial agents, and fragrances -- all of which are bad for your pet.

• Instead, use a natural litter such as "Care Fresh" or "Yesterday's News." They're made of recycled newspaper. They're safe, non-toxic, dust-free, and environmentally friendly.

3. Constant access to an outside yard via a doggy door.

• You can have a small room with a doggy door leading outside to a small fenced "potty" yard.

• When you have to leave the house for more than four hours, you can put your dog in the small room, with access to the potty yard via the doggy door.

• This method of confinement and bathroom access should only be considered if your dog doesn't bark when he goes outside.

Understanding Canine Behavior It's very important to properly identify your dog's behavior patterns to train them in the most effective, humane way and prevent the stressful situation these issues can create. Canine drives The prey drive includes those behaviors that highlight hunting and foraging behaviors. Dogs that hunt and kill their toys (or objects of clothing, pillows, etc.), chase anything that moves, steal food, stalk the cat, and pounce on toys or other animals are probably high in prey drive. The pack drive involves a dog's affinity for humans or other dogs. A dog with a high pack drive cannot get enough of people; he barks or cries when left alone, solicits play and petting, likes to touch, enjoys grooming, and loves the sound of his master's voice.

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The fight drive is defensive and indicates a dog's self-confidence in stressful situations. A dog with a strong fight-defense drive stands his ground, walks high on his toes, guards his territory and his family, may guard his toys and food, tolerates petting and grooming but does not really enjoy these activities, enjoys tug-of-war, and seems ready to fight. The flight drive is also a defense drive and indicates a dog's lack of self-confidence. A dog with high flight drive is unsure in new situations and may hide behind his master, is stressed when separated from him, crawls on his belly or urinates when reprimanded, and may bite when cornered. Aggression There are three general types of aggressive behavior in dogs: dominance aggression, fearful aggression, and protective (territorial) aggression Dominance aggression: The manifestation of inappropriate responses to specific situations related to control. It usually develops in dogs at social maturity, between 18 and 36 months of age Fearful aggression: Fearfully aggressive dogs react inappropriately when they sense intrusion or feel cornered Protective aggression: Dogs with protective or territorial aggression protect people or places regardless of whether or not there is an actual threat. Their response is inappropriate and potentially dangerous. Protective (directed at protecting people, other animals, and objects) and territorial (directed at protecting their house, yard, or room) behavior is appropriate in actual threats, such as attacks or break-ins, but is not appropriate when a threat does not exist. Protective or territorial aggression may be directed at strangers (e.g., delivery person) or someone not well known to the dog (e.g., owner’s friend). The dog may also inappropriately protect one household member from another (e.g., when children are roughhousing). Dogs without protective aggression usually give a low-level threat (bark or growl) then determine if the perceived threat is real based on the response they receive. Separation anxiety As sensitive and loyal as most Chinese Shar-Pei are, separation anxiety is a common stress problem identified by both rescuers and breeders. The combination of this predisposition, and the fact that most owners have no choice but to leave their dog alone at some point each day can create potential situations of self-inflicted damage to themselves and your home if not properly handled. Please follow these simple guidelines:

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Plan Your Exit - When it is time to leave, just leave. Do not say "Good bye" to your dog with hugs and kisses. In fact, ignore your dog for five minutes before you go. Paying too much attention will make your dog feel more insecure when the attention is abruptly withdrawn. Leave a Distraction - Prepare a "Bye-Bye" bone. Purchase a sterilized; hollow bone from the pet store. Fill it with goodies such as dried liver pet treats, beef jerky, peanut butter, cheese or other things your dog really likes. Keep it hidden and take it out when you leave each day. Place it near your dog just before you close the door. When you arrive home, poke the goodies left in the bone out so your dog gets them. Hopefully, he will appreciate the bone so much that he will look forward to it coming out in place of getting upset with your leaving. Confine Your Dog When You Are Away - Confining your dog during your times of absence has two positive results. First, a dog who is confined to a carrier or crate cannot do damage to your home. Secondly, a crate, when properly introduced, will act as a safe, comfortable den where the dog can relax. Limiting his movement also acts as an anxiety reducer for most dogs. Leave the Radio On - Tune a radio to a talk station, put it on in a room you are often in, the bedroom is usually a good choice, and close the door. The dog will hear the human voices from your room and may not feel so alone. You can even tape record your own voice and play the recording in place of the radio program. Dogs know the sound of your voice all too well. And remember, since the dog is most anxious just after you leave, a one-hour recording will most probably do. Practice This Training Routine - With most dogs, the hardest time for them is immediately after you leave. Their anxious (and sometimes destructive) behavior occurs within the first hour after they are left alone. It will be your job to reshape your dog's behavior through reinforcement training. Leave your dog out of his crate, put your coat on, and walk to the door and leave. Come back in immediately. Greet your dog calmly. Tell him to sit. When he does, reinforce this behavior with a food treat he enjoys. Wait a few minutes and then repeat the exercise, this time remaining outside a few seconds longer. Continue practicing leaving and returning over the next few weeks, always remembering to return, greet your dog calmly and command him to sit before offering a treat. Establish Your Leadership - When a dog has a strong leader, it has a calming effect on him. He feels safe and taken care of. In the absence of a strong leader, your dog feels obligated to assume that position in the social hierarchy of the family pack. Since a leader must control all that goes on, his inability to control your leaving causes him stress and anxiety. For example there was a case with a male Lhasa Apso who would bite at an owner's leg each morning when she attempted to leave for work. He would exhibit dominant behavior to try to stop his owner from leaving which would then cause him stress, which he wished to

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avoid. Obedience training is the best-organized method of establishing yourself as a strong leader. Exercise Your Dog - A dog that is lacking exercise is more likely to have stress and tension. Tiring a dog out with a long walk, run or with play goes a long way in reducing stress.

Temperament The Chinese Shar-Pei was bred as a guard dog- this makes them very territorial. They are very protective of their home and family. This makes them an excellent housedog, but can present some problems when strangers enter the home. While it is desirable to have a dog that protects the home, it is risky to have a dog that is too protective. Here are some suggestions:

1. When people come over to the house have the dog crated - this avoids any confrontations. Otherwise, have the dog on a leash and slip collar. Have your guests ignore the dog for the first few minutes and let the dog get used to the fact that strangers have entered his domain. Then have the guests offer some treats to the dog - again, under your supervision and control.

2. Many Shar-Pei will guard the door. Use baby gates to restrict this activity. Crating is also useful for this problem.

3. Spray bottles containing water are useful to control some unwanted behaviors since most Shar-Pei don't seem to like water.

4. It's always a good idea, with any dog, to have friends phone before they come over to your home. This allows you a chance to prepare for the interaction of friends and your dog ahead of time.

5. Keep a good supply of treats on hand to reward good behavior. 6. Use common sense. Remember that not all people like dogs or

know how to handle them. Don't let your dog be a nuisance to houseguests. Young children often don't know how to behave around dogs - be especially alert when youngsters come to the house.

Breed-Specific Behaviors: Shar-Pei display the following behaviors which seem to be characteristics of the breed:

• They display a behavior known as "sharking". This is a circling; staring behavior characteristic of fighting dogs and used to intimidate their opponents. This occurs when the dog is nervous or unsure.

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• When crated or otherwise confined they have a tendency to "bury" their water and/or food.

• They don't like to be petted on top of the head. This is probably due to poor peripheral vision caused by the excessive skin folds around the eyes and the heavy brow.

• Many Shar-Pei, particularly the horse-coats, don't like to go out in the rain. They may have to be kicked out the door to make them eliminate.

Shar-Pei and Other Dogs: The Chinese Shar-Pei is a very alert, intelligent and highly responsive dog breed. They have a lower aggression threshold to other dogs as well as a lower proximity tolerance around other dogs. This translates into the following recommendations:

1. It is highly advised to begin obedience training at as early an age as possible. Early socialization is to be encouraged and the earlier this begins the better.

2. Always maintain control of your Shar-Pei in the presence of other dogs. Bear in mind that other dog owners may not control their dogs and be prepared for the unexpected.

3. Use of positive reinforcement (treats, toys) to reward good behavior and paying attention in the presence of other dogs is absolutely necessary. It is difficult to use punishment when the dog is already excited by the presence of another dog - learning is not happening when the adrenalin is flowing.

Exercise Needs Of puppies Shar-Peis require daily walks that should be longer than just taking the dog away for its needs. Generally, the Shar-Pei makes a good house pet and doesn't give the owners much trouble. They are calm. However, if the amount of exercise is not sufficient, the Shar-Pei may get bored and misbehave. Shar-Peis are intelligent dogs and need both mental and physical activities to keep them fit and contented.

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Chapter 6

FAQ’s

Is the Shar-Pei a rare breed? In the early 70's, there were only a few dog breeds, and Shar-Peis were the sought after rare breed. The government of mainland Communist China had an active program of destroying all dogs. As fanciers from the US became involved with saving the Shar-Pei, its quick intelligence and engaging personality made it an extremely popular companion. So much so, that when the Shar-Pei entered the AKC Non-Sporting Group in August 1992, over 70,000 dogs were registered as foundation stock - the largest breed ever to join AKC. Now it is not a rare breed anymore. Is the Shar-Pei expensive to buy? When the Chinese Shar-Pei first came to this country, they were very expensive. Today however, Shar-Pei is a very popular breed of dog. Prices for pet quality and show quality dogs are comparable to what you would expect to pay for any other purebred dog. You check out a few reputable breeders to insure you are not paying more than what they are worth.

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But remember the bottom line - they are worth what you are willing to pay for them. We are wondering how to go about choosing a pup without being able to see the parents or the puppies. It is not advisable buying a dog that you cannot see or research prior to purchase. There are so many questionable temperament and health defects that can be eliminated by genetic research. Even if the dog is for a pet only, this research removes a lot of potential heartbreak and financial expense at a later stage. It would be best to find a breeder that is close enough to your region to drive, or take the extra trip to fly and see the pup in person. I need some good advice on a recommended diet to get my female Shar-pei started on - any suggestions and/or recommendations would be much appreciated, she is 6 years old. On average, older adult dogs should not eat food with more than 20% protein to avoid kidney problems, but sometimes may need additional fat (like from canned food) to maintain healthy weight and coat. We have a male Shar-pei who is 10 months old now. He has a problem with a bad odor. We give him a bath every week but it is still there. Any suggestions? There are a variety of reasons why a Shar-pei can smell: 1) Ears: build-up of wax or yeast can create not only painful ears, but also a strong odor. Clean the ears with a product that reduces odors as well as dries out ear canals 2) Slime: the protein in Shar-pei slobber has a distinctly different smell to it. Wipe away slime and any food particles caught in the folds of the mouth regularly. 3) Bad breath: either due to teeth problems or what the dog is fed. Too much protein can create a stronger smell if not digested properly, also if your dog regurgitates anytime. Bad breath is also associated with the breed's health problems of Swollen Hock Syndrome and Amyloidosis. Brush the teeth thoroughly every week. 4) Mucin odor: the substance that creates the folds and wrinkles in Shar-pei skin can seep through the pores and cause odor. Mucin can be released during stress like hormones, which also smell. Use a Betadine rinse (50/50 mix with distilled water) after bathing to eliminate topical germs. Neutering a male also helps to eliminate body odors.

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Does Shar-Pei have lots of medical problems? When the Shar-Pei first came to this country, there were only a few dozen dogs from which to start a breeding program. Unfortunately, some early dogs had health problems. Over the past 25 years, dedicated breeders have carefully worked to eliminate health problems by breeding only sound, healthy dogs. Most Shar-Peis do not require eye entropian surgery nor do they have skin problems. Does Shar-Pei have a bad temperament? Temperament problems are not a Shar-Pei affliction. Any dog, any breed - when bred improperly can have temperament problems. Shar-Pei is intensely loyal to their family and makes excellent watchdogs. Like all dogs, however, they should be socialized. Some Shar-Peis are aloof toward strangers. Because Shar-Pei have a quick intelligence and are eager to please their family, they are very easily trained.

Must you dry and powder Shar-Pei wrinkles after a bath?

Shar-Peis do not require any special treatment when bathing. You don't have to powder or dry their wrinkles with a Q-tip. Like any other breed, you must thoroughly rinse the shampoo from the coat and wrinkles. Although Shar-Pei hates water, they are easily trained to stand for a bath. Because they are fastidiously clean, they greatly appreciate the fresh feeling after a bath. A good dog shampoo and a simple toweling down to keep them from dripping on the carpet is all that's required. The short coat naturally air-dries in a few moments. Does it require a lot of work to house break a Shar-Pei?

Shar-Pei may be the easiest breed in the world to housebreak. It's not unusual for 6 to 8 week puppies wanting to go outside. When there is a pet door near the whelping box, Shar-Pei instinctively copy mama's behavior and bounce out the pet door to relieve themselves. New owners should take their puppies outside immediately after feeding and about once every 2 hours. Shar-Peis are fastidiously clean and are famous for holding it in until they can go outside.

Is the Shar-Pei highly intelligent?

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Shar-Pei has a quick intelligence. However, their high intelligence may cause boredom with overly repetitive training, so training should be combined with play and new tasks to accomplish. Is the Shar-Pei very friendly? Although some Shar-Pei may be aloof toward strangers, they bond very readily to their new families. What colors does Shar-Pei come in? Shar-Pei come in just about every color there is: black, red, fawn, cream, sable, blue, chocolate, 5 point red dilute, apricot-dilute, and cream-dilute. Any solid color is acceptable, but spots, patches, saddle-patterns, and two-tone patterns are a disqualification for the show ring, but have no negative impact on the dog being a companion animal. Pigmented dogs have a solid-black tongue. Dilute-colored dogs have a solid lavender tongue. A spotted tongue is a major fault, and a pink tongue is a disqualification - again - in the show ring - as a pet or companion animal this is not important. Why is its tongue black? Do any other breeds also have a black tongue? The Shar-Pei shares this distinctive characteristic with only one other breed, the Chow-Chow, indicating that there may be a common ancestor. My Shar-Pei bit someone viciously. I do not want to have him destroyed. He is not a vicious dog, but he is quick to bite people. Is there any way to muzzle a Shar-Pei? You could muzzle your dog, but that might only make him more upset. It might be easier to crate train him or put him away in a bedroom. Shar-pei is natural protector, and the more dominant ones will be quick to bite. It is highly recommend that you work on socializing him, so he's not so stressed by visitors in the future. If you do decide to use a muzzle, make sure the dog can breathe properly after applying the muzzle, or you could put your dog into respiratory distress. Shar-pei has a long palate and requires open mouth breathing at most times. The puppies are cute and wrinkly! Do they stay this wrinkly? No, in the adult Shar-Pei the wrinkling is confined mainly to the forehead and withers. However, some have more wrinkles than others.

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Are they good with other dogs? Children? Cats and other pets? Yes, like most breeds if raised with children and other pets the Shar-Pei can be a loving member of the family. Puppy kindergarten is a good way to socialize your puppy with other dogs, people, and unfamiliar surroundings. When considering a Shar-Pei as your families dog make sure you see the parents of your prospective pup. This will help you determine what your pup's temperament will be like. Thus socialization is very important when young. The Shar-Pei thrives on lots of attention and interaction. Why does the Shar-Pei shy away when a person tries to pet them on the head or approaches to quickly? The breed's eyes are hooded by skin, which limits its peripheral vision. As a result, they have difficulty seeing people approach from either side until they're almost directly in front of them. The sudden appearance startles the dogs, which causes them to shy away. When approached from the front, Shar-Pei doesn’t react this way. Always let the dog sniff your hand and allow him/her time to familiarize themselves with you. Sniffing is a dog's way of making friends. Are they suspicious of strangers? Do they make good watchdogs? Yes, they are aloof with strangers and make excellent watchdogs. They are defensive of their home and loved ones. They are an independent breed, very owner-oriented. Training sessions should be brief and never with force. Shar-Pei respond best to praise and or food reinforcement as a reward for good behavior. Does Shar-Pei snore? Yes, Shar-Pei snores, some more then others. The Shar-Pei also snort which may be mistaken for growling. As with all squashed-faced breeds, Bulldogs, Pugs, etc., snoring and snorting go hand-in-hand. Do they shed much? No, only once a year to lighten their dense coat for the summer. Always use a bristled brush or a hound glove.

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How long do they live? They live to be approximately 8 to 12 years of age but some have been known to live as long as 15 years or more. Is the Shar-Pei suitable for apartment living? Yes, but they need daily exercise otherwise they will begin to feel pent-up. This should include more then just taking them out to do their duties. Is Shar-Pei intelligent? Shar-Pei is very intelligent and excels in obedience training. They are quick to learn therefore training should be varied in order to maintain their interest. Does Shar-Pei drool? Only after they eat do they get slobbery due to water getting trapped in the folds of their muzzle. Also if they are offered some tasty treats! Can Shar-Pei tolerate extremes in temperature? Shar-Pei should not be left in the sun for long periods of time as they can get over heated easily. In cold weather the Shar-Pei is fine but should not live as an outdoor dog. Remember to put vaseline on the pads of their paws to protect them from the salt some cities put down for vehicles. This salt can burn the pads of their feet and can be very painful. The Shar-Pei does not do well with climate extremes. What is the general disposition of a Shar-Pei? The Shar-Pei is a bright, affectionate dog that makes a terrific companion animal. In addition it is an able contender in the obedience or agility ring when trained with the appropriate methods. It is easily house-trained, exceptionally clean and requires minimal grooming. And, it is stable and temperamentally dependable when bred by reputable breeders knowledgeable in genetics.

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Chapter 7 Breeding, Spaying & Neutering

Should I breed my Shar-Peis? Think Very Hard! Almost everyone who owns a dog thinks about breeding it at least once. Raising a litter sounds easy and fun but it involves much more work and responsibility than most people are prepared to undertake. Before you breed your dog, there are some important things to consider: Will all your puppies find good, permanent homes? According to the Humane Society of the United States and the government Census Bureau 2,000 puppies and 450 humans are born every hour in our country. Right from the start, only 1 out of 4 puppies has a chance of finding a home. Finding a permanent home is even more unlikely - only 1 out of 10 dogs will stay with its original buyer for its whole life. Five out of 10 will change owners before they're a year old. The remainder of these dogs will end up in animal shelters, abandoned and unwanted. Even if your dog is an expensive purebred, your puppies are subject to the same statistics. At least 3 MILLION purebred dogs will be killed in animal shelters this year alone because there just aren't enough

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homes for all of them. There are so many unwanted pets that cities and counties all over the country are considering passing laws that will ban all breeding! Having a litter is expensive Raising a litter involves a considerable investment in time and money - money that you aren't likely to get back in profit. By the time your bitch is old enough to have puppies, you'll have more than $1000 invested in her purchase price, food and up keep, vaccinations and the medical tests and certification to prove her suitability for breeding. In order to produce quality puppies, you'll need to use a stud dog that's as good or better than she is. Good stud dogs require a hefty fee. Most professional breeders won't be interested in taking a puppy in exchange nor are they interested in breeding to just any bitch. There'll be pre-whelping exams and x-rays, post-whelping exams and shots, dewclaw removal and puppy shots (two sets for each pup before they're sold), de worming medication, extra food for dam and pups, equipment like whelping boxes, heating pads, puppy playpens, crates, etc. Problem pregnancies are common. A Cesarian section can cost over $500.00! You'll be taking time off work to help whelp the litter and make sure all is well the first few days, especially if this is your bitch's first litter. Dogs don't always know what to do and can accidentally kill their puppies. A problem during whelping can cost your bitch her life if you're not there to tend her. You can depend on a 25% mortality rate for newborn puppies no matter how well you care for them. Birth defects like cleft palettes are also common. Then there will be advertising costs to help sell your puppies. Depending on your breed and part of the country, it can take up to six months to find proper homes for your entire litter. Even breeders of top quality show dogs rarely break even on their expenses. AKC registration requirements If you plan to register your litter with the AKC, you need to become familiar with their rules and record keeping requirements. You should be aware that they have the right to inspect your premises and breeding records at any time. If your record keeping doesn't meet their standards, they can refuse to register your puppies, impose a large fine and suspend you from registration privileges for life. Before going any further, think hard about your reasons for wanting to breed a litter. Here are some of the most common ones that are heard most often:

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Nature intended dogs to have puppies. Nature doesn't control our pets' reproductive careers any more - we do. Nature's way is very different than ours. Nature never intends all animals to reproduce. In the wild, nature sees to it that only the strongest, fittest and smartest animals survive long enough to have babies. Nature only allows females to conceive when the food supply and environment is suitable to assure a good future. We humans allow our animals to reproduce anytime, no matter if there is a future for them or not. We're doing it for the kids. Seeing the miracle of birth isn't all that rosy as it seems. It's messy, bloody and usually happens in the middle of the night. It's painful for the bitch and her screaming may be more than you or the kids can stand. There are videos and books available to show children what birth is like without the responsibility and expense of raising puppies. Seeing the birth of a mummified fetus, or a grotesquely malformed puppy and even possibly the death of their beloved pet bitch is not a positive experience for children. We want another dog just like this one Your puppies have at least a 50-50 chance of taking after the other parent instead! Your dog is unique, special. The laws of heredity make it impossible for any two to be exactly alike. Many of the qualities of personality that make your dog so adorable to you are developed, not inherited. We want to keep a puppy. It's far cheaper and easier to buy a new puppy than to breed one yourself! All our friends want one Almost everyone who saw your dog as a pup will tell you they want one "someday". That someday is seldom when your puppies are ready for their new homes! You'll be amazed at how many people suddenly don't have time for a pup right now or aren't willing to pay your price. Don't count on vague promises! Placing puppies in good homes is easier said than done. Not everyone should own a dog and bad owners aren't always easy to sort from the good ones. You have to be a good judge of character and willing to spend

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time getting to know people before you sell them a puppy. Do they have the experience to raise and train your puppy and if not, are you willing to teach them? Is this the best possible home for this particular puppy? Do you know how to evaluate puppy potential to match the right dog with the right person? Will you be willing to hang on to each pup until just the right home comes along? She needs to experience sex Hormones govern sex in animals. There is no love, emotion or thinking involved. A bitch only "thinks" about sex when she's in season. The experience is forgotten once her season is over. Males only think about sex when they're near a bitch in season. There is no truth to the old wives' tale that bitches need to have a litter before spaying. Veterinarians who still give that advice are behind the times! Research shows that even baby puppies may be spayed or neutered with no ill effects. Spaying a bitch before her first heat cycle eliminates the risk of breast cancer and life-threatening uterine infections. Neutering a male dog won't make him a wimp! In fact, neutering will make him a better, more trainable pet by allowing him to channel what used to be sexual energy into other areas. We want to get back our investment in our dog. As was pointed out earlier, you are not likely to make a profit from raising puppies. In fact, raising a litter will probably cost more than you ever imagined! You probably bought your dog to provide companionship and pleasure. Even if you paid as much as $1000 for it, that's only an "investment" of $100 a year if your dog lives for 10 years - less than $2 a week. Isn't the companionship, pleasure, love and loyalty your dog gives you worth that much? If you sincerely feel that you have exceptionally good reasons for breeding your dog and can live up to the great responsibility involved, your work is just beginning! A Check List: Here is quick checklist of what you should look for before you breed. Is your bitch: 1. show quality 2. a champion 3. have both parents and grand parents that are champions 4. free from hereditary disease

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5. parents and grand parents tested and free from hip dysplasia 6. mature enough to breed 7. tested today as free from brucellosis Is your dog: 1. show quality 2. a champion 3. have both parents and grand parents that are champions 4. free from hereditary disease 5. parents and grand parents tested and free from hip dysplasia 6. mature enough to breed 7. tested today as free from brucellosis

And There’s More To Think!

1. you have got to have homes already for all pups - before the mating 2. you have found a dog that meets all the points in the section above relating to the requirements of the bitch 3. you are prepared to offer a lifetime guarantee (or at least two years) for the health of the pups 4. if, during the lifetime of the pups, if any are returned for whatever reason, you have to take back that pup (now adult dog) and find a home for him/her. 5. all non-show quality pups are sold with a spay/neuter agreement 6. all prospective buyers have been fully screened by you 7. you are going to offer support and advice to your puppy buyers for the life of the pup 8. you have the money to cover a stud fee, possible c-section and complications, vaccinations, and still get no income from the sale of any pups. 9. have you consented with the breeder of your bitch/dog and sought their advice?

Now that's just a starting point. If you can't or won't meet these criteria, perhaps breeding at this time is not the best thing for you or your dog. The Cost Of Breeding: Many people are under the misconception that by breeding their bitch they can make a bit of easy money. Let's say that you may have 6 puppies that you can sell for $500 each. Wow - that's $3000, and you haven't even had to do anything except own the bitch!

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This is far from the truth These are some of the costs that you will have to budget for: *stud fee *Whelping box, heat pads, heat lamps, thermometer, scissors, towels, *baby scales, tweezers, hemostats, baby suction bulb *milk replacement formula and/or goats milk, baby bottles, tubes for *tube feeding, sterilizing solution, nail clippers *puppy wormer (2,4,6,& 8 weeks), puppy diarrhea medicine *food - a pregnant female may need up to four times what she normally eats, and a nursing female will also need a lot of food. Puppies also eat much more food than what you would think *vaccinations *eye certification - done at 7 weeks Here are some of the hidden and not so hidden costs that you may have not factored in * vet checks and health tests to make sure that the bitch is ok to be mated and whelp * ultrasounds * lots of extra washing for bedding in whelping box * emergency vet trips (invariably late at night)for the emergency c-section emergency vet trips to save a dying pup * time off from work that you need to take to help the bitch and to make sure that no puppies get squashed, etc - allow at least 5 days off work for this * vet visit and antibiotics for the bitch for such things as mastisis advertising to sell puppies * lots of phone calls to and from interested and not so interested puppy buyers

Now, that you have read this, do you still figure you can make money in breeding? Spaying Your Female Dog You can call it "spaying" or "neutering". Both terms refer to an ovario-hysterectomy -- removal of the ovaries and uterus. There are several advantages. To name a few: Health reasons top the list.

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Spaying offers complete protection against serious uterine infections such as pyometra and endometritis. These infections are common and they can be killers, especially of small females. Spaying offers complete protection against the hormonal upsets or false pregnancy. Spaying offers partial protection against breast cancer. Risks of pregnancy. Giving birth is risky and could cost your female's life. Dealing with puppies means a major change in your life. Bloody discharge. Twice a year, unspayed females come into "season" or "heat" and have a bloody discharge that can stain your carpets and furniture. Swollen genitals, licking, and "flirting." During her heat period, the genitals swell. Many females spend a lot of time licking their private parts. Many females flirt shamelessly with other dogs Humpiness! Many females in heat will mount other dogs and hump pillows or stuffed toys. Mood changes. Some females become more restless, moody, or flighty during their heat period. Heat periods can interrupt your daily schedule. During the heat period, you often need to curtail daily walks or change your route so you're not passing the yards of male dogs. And friends and relatives may not appreciate your dog visiting at this time. License fees. In many communities, dog license fees are highest for unspayed females. Possible disadvantages of spaying your female

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Risk of surgery. Spaying is major surgery requiring general anesthesia. This always carries some risk, especially with a breed who is notoriously difficult to anesthetize, such as toy breeds, flat-faced breeds (Bulldogs, Pugs), sighthounds, and giant breeds. The expense. Spaying costs one to two hundred dollars when the safest anesthesia is used and all safety precautions taken. Low-cost spay clinics are available, but it is not recommend especially for Shar-peis. Can't show in conformation classes. You can't show a spayed dog in conformation classes at dog shows, but I don't think much of these anyway -- and you can still show her in every other canine activity, such as obedience, agility, tracking, and so on. If you spay before the first heat... Your female's risk of developing a breast tumor later in life drops from 1-in-4 to 1-in-200. That's excellent. But breast tumors are usually benign. And the disadvantages of such early spaying are...

• Increased anesthesia risk -- because of smaller size (especially in breeds that are small to begin with) and because of immature lungs/organs that have to withstand the stress of the anesthesia.

• Tendency to mature with a somewhat "rounded", somewhat "generic" body shape -- because the reproductive hormones didn't have enough time to stamp in distinctive feminine characteristics.

Tendency to develop incontinence (leaking urine) in middle age. If you spay AFTER the first heat, but before the second heat...

• You gain most of the same health benefits -- the risk of uterine infections still drops to zero, and the risk of breast tumors drops from 1-in-4 to 1-in-15, which is still good.

• Your female will be bigger and stronger for the surgery. • Her internal organs will be more fully developed. • Her feminine characteristics will be more clearly defined. • The spay is easy to schedule -- you do it a month or two after the

first heat is completed.

If you spay after the SECOND (or later) heat...

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you're no longer reducing the risk of breast tumor. It remains 1-in-4. But you're still eliminating uterine infections (pyometra and endometritis), so spaying is very much worth it even if your dog is several years old. Good reasons to neuter your male Behavioral reasons top the list. 1.Unneutered males are more likely to "mark" their territory, which means spraying urine on every vertical object so other males can smell it. Marking can be an obsession with some males, especially in toy breeds and dominant breeds. They will tow you toward every fire hydrant and telephone pole. Some will mark inside your house, too. 2.Unneutered males are more likely to pick fights with other males. They are also more likely to be attacked by other unneutered males, who see them as potential rivals. 3.Unneutered males often get aroused easily -- the signs of which can be embarrassing. 4.Unneutered males are easily distracted. Their eyeballs tend to rove up the street looking for females or potential male rivals, rather than focusing on YOU. 5.Unneutered males can be hard to control when a female is in heat. They become agitated, whining and drooling and pacing and attempting to escape their house or yard. 6.Unneutered males are more dominant. Their testosterone goads them into resisting and challenging authority Health reasons. Neutering offers complete protection against testicular cancer. Neutering may offer partial protection against prostate disease. License fees. In many communities, dog license fees are higher for unneutered dogs. Disadvantages of neutering your male Changed temperament. Some males do become overly placid after neutering Risk of surgery. Neutering does require general anesthesia, which always carries some risk, especially with a breed which is notoriously difficult to anesthetize, such as toy breeds, flat-faced breeds (Bulldogs, Pugs), sight hounds, and giant breeds. However, neutering a male is simpler than spaying a female, and the male is not under anesthesia for very long. The exception

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is when one or both testicles have been retained. This surgery is more complicated. Can't show in conformation classes. You can't show a neutered dog in conformation classes at dog shows, but I don't think much of these anyway -- and you CAN still show him in every other canine activity, such as obedience, agility, tracking, and so on. Toy breed males mature quickly and should be neutered at five to six months to prevent the obsessive leg-lifting and territorial marking habits they are prone to develop. Larger breeds take longer to develop, so wait till nine to twelve months before neutering. Males who have been neutered earlier tend to mature with a somewhat "rounded", somewhat "generic" body shape -- because the reproductive hormones didn't have enough time to stamp in distinctive masculine characteristics. To sum up… Now that you have decided to buy the Shar-Pei, aren’t you happy that you read this book? Good Luck

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Resources Shar-Pei Vet List This is a list of Shar-Pei knowledgeable vets throughout North America, overseas and abroad, compiled by the CHIS-L list members (Chinese Shar-Pei mailing list). It can be found at: http:/ /www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/3520/ge00006.htm. You can also try this web URL for the vet list maintained by the Shar-Pei Breeders & Lovers Network. http://www.miniweb.net/dogs/webring/vets.htm Shar-Pei Mailing List This is the website for eGroups. At this link you will find a list of email groups geared to Chinese Shar-Pei fanciers. http://www.egroups.com/search?query=shar-pei Clubs The American Kennel Club

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5580 Centerview Drive, Raleigh, NC 27606. Publication: American Kennel Gazette Suggested Readings

• Chinese Shar-Pei, The - Debo. • Chinese Shar-Pei, World of The - Nicholas.

• Shar-Pei, Book of The - Brearley.

• Chinese Shar-Pei, Understanding The – Redditt • Chinese Shar-Pei, An Owner's Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet -

Redditt.

• Puppy Book, The Chinese Shar-Pei - Redditt. _________________________________________________________________