NOVEMBER 9-11Chocolate Show, New YorkLoosen your belt and satisfy your sweet tooth for months to follow as New York hosts the largest chocolate show in the US. After you’ve had your fill of moreish truffles and decadent eclairs, a fashion show features chocolate-inspired dresses that are good enough to eat. www.chocolateshow.com

OCTOBER 11-13Great American Beer Festival, DenverLet the good times flow as Denver showcases 2,400 beers from more than 465 breweries. You’ll have the chance to taste what the industry panel of judges have deemed to be the best beer — or judge for yourself as you work your way through the list. www.greatamericanbeerfestival.com

OCTOBER 31Darkness Haunted House, St LouisRated one of America’s scariest haunted houses, the two-floored terror mansion beckons exploration on Halloween night with only a glow stick and the pitch black for company. Not only that, you’ll be able to experience the frights from all angles with some high-tech visual effects. www.scarefest.com

SEPTEMBER 15Salsa Festival, AlbuquerqueCome to this Cuban-inspired festival with an empty stomach and comfy shoes to enjoy all things salsa. After showcasing some sultry moves to live music, sample the local wines and test your tongue in the salsa dip competition. www.newmexico.org

SEPTEMBER 22Conch Scramble, Florida KeysTake part in a charity golf tournament with a salty twist, as you swap the greens for the open sea. Swing from your team boat towards a floating target and if you miss, at least you’ll be feeding the fish — the specially designed golf balls turn to fish food after 96 hours. www.conchlifescramble.com

COMING UP THIS FALL

ASTA diary

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diary | departures

fall 2012 | ASTAnetwork | 109

113 Dispatch119 Out There121 City Break

124 5 Minute Guide127 Reviews133 Gadgets

IN DEPARTURES:

NOVEMBER 17-18The Horrible Hundred, FloridaAppropriately named, the Horrible Hundred is an annual 100-mile bike ride just outside Orlando, organized by the Florida Freewheelers cycling club. With notoriously steep hills and the longest, most grueling climb in South Florida, it’s certainly no easy feat. www.horrible-hundred.com

NOVEMBER 9-DECEMBER 25Polar Express, West VirginiaBased on the Warner Bros children’s film, pajama clad passengers are transported to the North Pole for the day to relive the magical Christmas story (minus Tom Hanks). On the way there are dancing chefs serving hot chocolate, before Santa boards with a sack of presents. www.mountainrailwv.com

OCTOBER 7Fishing & Seafood Festival, HawaiiSay aloha to more than 100 local seafood stalls as you taste your way around the Hawaiian seas at this annual seafood festival in Honolulu. If you fancy catching something for yourself or want to learn a new casting technique, don’t miss the live fishing demonstrations. www.hawaiifishingfestival.com

NOVEMBER 22Turkey Trail Trot, San FranciscoCelebrate Thanksgiving in style by donning your best turkey outfit and joining the rest of the feather-brained crowd in this annual five-mile fun run before a big feast commences. It’s fun for all the family as children can take part in the 100-meter Gobbler Chase. www.turkeytrailtrot.com

SEPTEMBER 22Great British Cheese Festival, UKCardiff Castle welcomes the arrival of strong whiffs of stilton and stinking bishop as the annual cheese festival sets up to serve more than 450 varieties. Wash down the mammoth selection with a wide range of local ciders or Celtic country wines. www.greatbritishcheesefestival.com

SEPTEMBER 22-OCTOBER 7Oktoberfest, Munich, GermanyBeer is the order of the day at this legendary German knees-up. Enjoy the finest hearty German cuisine and traditional music, all washed down with a huge choice of beer. Established in 1810, this remains Germany’s most popular event — for obvious reasons. www.oktoberfest.de

SEPTEMBER-OCTOBERNorthern Lights, IcelandWitness the breathtaking natural phenomenon of the Northern Lights at their most spectacular this September and October, with milder winter nights and clearer skies. During the day, wrap up warmly and take a boat trip to glimpse one of the country’s 23 species of whale. www.goiceland.org

NOVEMBER 1-3The Big Pig Jig, GeorgiaPork lovers can witness the Southeast’s largest BBQ cooking contest as contestants battle it out to determine who can serve up the most succulent pig. With strict entrance rules regarding hog size, the contest is taken seriously, so bring only the finest apple sauce. www.bigpigjig.com

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110 | ASTAnetwork | fall 2012

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Shearings! Brochure: Autumn & Winter 2012/13! The lowdown: A selection of UK and European autumn and winter getaways, covering destinations including Venice, Croatia, the Italian lakes and Paris. Shearings has also added a number of new trips to Europe’s Christmas markets.! Sample: A four-day ‘Party Weekend’ to a variety of UK hotspots costs from £89 per person, including luxury return coach travel, excursions, three-course dinners and the all-important full English breakfast each morning.! Contact: T: 0844 824 6351. www.shearings.com

Great Rail Journeys ! Brochure: Worldwide Holidays by Rail, 2012/2013! The lowdown: A collection of 40 rail-based trips spanning six continents, departing between August 2012 and December 2013. The range includes three new tours — Kerala & Exotic Southern India, Sri Lanka and Ecuador (with the option of adding a Galapagos cruise to the beginning or end of the tour).! Sample: The nine-day Avenue of Volcanoes tour in Ecuador is priced from £2,085 per person, including ! ights, travel between destinations and half-board accommodation.! Contact: T: 01904 521980. www.greatrail.com

Virgin Holidays ! Brochure: Sandals 2013! The lowdown: A selection of Caribbean holidays, including the new Balmoral Tower in the Bahamas and renovated Sandals Grande Riviera Beach & Villa Golf Resort in Jamaica. Exclusive bene" ts include free access to the Virgin Holidays V-room for certain departures, a free wedding ceremony for guests staying six nights, and premium economy ! ights from £199 each way.! Sample: Seven nights at the Grand Pineapple Beach Negril in Jamaica, from £1,199 per person on Luxury Included basis.! Contact: T: 0844 557 3865. www.virginholidays.co.uk

Fred. Olsen Cruises! Brochure: Worldwide 2013/14! The lowdown: Ex-UK cruises from spring 2013 to summer 2014, ranging from mini-breaks to 16-week round-the-world voyages. Fred. Olsen has added 12 new ports to its Worldwide programme, including Yangon, Burma; Haugesund, Norway; Townsville, Australia, and Puerto Vallarta, Mexico.! Sample: The 114-night Australia & South America World Cruise on Black Watch is priced from £9,399 per person, based on two adults sharing and including all meals and entertainment on board.! Contact: T: 01473 742424. www.fredolsencruises.com

Alexandra Sanchezcommercial manager, Air Europa

! WHERE WAS YOUR LAST HOLIDAY?My last trip was to Cancun in Mexico. I suggest that everyone explores outside of Cancun as there are such amazing places to visit.! WHAT MAKES AN IDEAL HOLIDAY?As much as I like sun and sea, I‘m always looking for something different that really gets me out of the routine. So adventure is a must. I love it when I can mix with local people, get to know different

cultures and live in the real country I’m in, away from tourist spots.! WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE?Gambia in West Africa. It’s a country where you can safely explore the real Africa. The people make you feel so welcome and the food is amazing.! WHERE WOULD YOU LOVE TO TRY?I would love to explore more of South America, speci! cally places such as Peru, as I think the country has a lot

to offer. I would also like to experience jungle trekking.! WHICH OF AIR EUROPA’S DESTINATIONS ARE YOU MOST EXCITED ABOUT?Our new destination, Bolivia. Air Europa has just launched a twice-weekly service from Gatwick via Madrid, which gives UK travellers the chance to experience Bolivia’s indigenous villages and Amazon jungle.

24 ABTA Magazine August 2012

UP FRONT

DIARY

Feel the earth shake beneath you at Thailand’s annual charity elephant polo tournament, held at the Anantara Hua Hin. Despite the elephants’ size, visitors are surprised how gracefully the animals move around the pitch. www.anantaraelephantpolo.com

Don green face paint and join the 80,000-strong crowd in Dublin’s Croke Park for the nail-biting All-Ireland Final. If you can’t get a ticket, watch the game in a suitable drinking establishment. www.gaa.ie

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DIARYKing’s Cup elephant polo 12-16 September, Thailand

Aloha Festivals 6-22 September, Hawaii

The Braemar Gathering1 September, UK

All-Ireland Football Final 16 September, Ireland

The largest celebration of Hawaiian culture opens with a traditional hula dance. Other activities include a street party and !oral parade with equestrian procession. www.alohafestivals.com

The Braemar Gathering has been running regularly since 1832, although there have been similar events celebrated at Braemar for more than 900 years. It’s a celebration of all things stereotypically Scottish, with caber tossing, Highland dancing and a hearty tug of war tournament. www.braemargathering.org

La Tomatina29 August, SpainTake part in the world’s largest food "ght, where nearly 140 tons of tomatoes are brought in by the truck-load. You’ll end up drenched in tomato juice, as the fruit is squashed and thrown at anything that moves. www.latomatina.org

Venice Historical Regatta 2 September, ItalyImagine the Oxford-Cambridge boat race, but with Italian !air. Gondoliers step up the pace and race down Venice’s beautiful Grand Canal, cheered on by crowds of spectators. www.regatastoricavenezia.it

ABTA Magazine August 2012 27

UP FRONT

tried & tested

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Stena Line DutchFlyer

EQUIPPED WITH A DutchFlyer ticket for a ! ight-free journey, my friend and I travelled from London’s Liverpool Street Station to Harwich International, where the impressive looking Stena Hollandica was berthed.

Our Comfort Class cabin featured a simple but re" ned decor, complete with a shower room, TV and generous complimentary food and drinks. We enjoyed the sea breeze on the impeccably kept sundeck, which, while lovely in the evening, must be even more pleasant for daytime passengers, with its benches, tables and basketball court.

Inside, the elegant Metropolitan a la carte restaurant serves beautifully presented and

delicious food, while another, more laid-back restaurant is where a buffet breakfast is available in the morning. The entertainment includes a couple of bars, a cinema, gaming area, casino, shop and children’s area.

The staff were all friendly, even succeeding in making the 6.30am wake-up call fun, with music through the loud speaker.

From Hook of Holland, it takes two short train trips to get to Amsterdam, so it’s suited to those who don’t like ! ying or just want a more leisurely pace of travel. Prices start at £68 return, including all trains and the ferry. Overnight cabins cost from an extra £41 per person return. www.stenaline.co.uk

what’s new

take three: castles

! The View from The Shard: Tickets

are now on sales for the viewing

deck on London’s newest skyscraper.

From February 2013, visitors will

be able to look out 40 miles across

the capital from the 68th to the

72nd fl oors of the iconic building.

www.theviewfromtheshard.com

Neuschwanstein, Germany Mehrangarh Fort, India Matsumoto Castle, JapanOriginally intended to provide a hilltop hideaway for the reclusive King Ludwig II, Neuschwanstein in southern Germany is nowadays far from secret. Dedicated to composer Richard Wagner and opened to the public just weeks after the king’s death in 1886, the castle, with its fairytale-style turrets and jaw-dropping mountain views, attracts around 1.3 million visitors a year.

Dominating the Jodhpur skyline, the burnished red sandstone structure, described by Rudyard Kipling as ‘the work of giants’, stands on a sheer cliff, rising 400ft above the city below. Built in the 15th century by Rao Jodha, the region’s ruler, it has had temples, palaces and courtyards added by successive generations. The lavishly decorated interiors are something to behold.

The striking ‘Crow Castle’ in Nagano Prefecture is a hirajiro, meaning it was built on the plain rather than raised ground. The 16th-century castle’s dramatic black and white exterior cuts quite a ! gure against the backdrop of the Japanese Alps beyond. Although designed as a fortress, the building has " ourishes such as a turret designed specially for moon-gazing.

50 ABTA Magazine September 2012

OUT THERE

N E W S

Zum 80. Geburtstag des isländischen Malers und Grafi kers Erró präsentiert das Kunstmuseum Reykjavik eine Sonder-ausstellung mit Werken des Künstlers aus mehr als einem halben Jahrhundert. Der Postmodernist Erró nutzt eine Viel-zahl unterschiedlicher künstlerischer Techniken wie Collage, Druck, Linol- und Holzschnitt, Lithographie und Seiden-druck. In seinen Werken kommentiert er das politische und kulturelle Geschehen seiner Zeit. Die resultierenden Kunst-werke wirken oft geistreich und gleich-zeitig verstörend. Parallel zu der Sonder-auss te l lung verans ta l te t das Kunstmuseum Reykjavik Vorträge und Workshops und ermöglicht auf diese Weise einen detaillierten Einblick in das Schaffen und Werk Errós.

To celebrate Erró’s 80th birthday, the Reykjavik Art Museum is exhibiting a wide collection of the Icelandic graphic artist’s work, which spans half a century. The post-modernist Erró comments on art history and politics, combining a wide variety of images and a range of techniques – including collage, stamp-printing, lino and wood cutting, etching, lithography and silk-screen printing – to create both witty and unsettling results. The museum boasts Iceland’s largest collection of art and wants to expand to include as many different mediums from as many different artists as possible. As well as exhibiting highlights of Erró’s work, the museum will be holding talks, workshops and events which will give further insight into his working practice.

www.artmuseum.is

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N E W S

Noch bis Mitte Februar zeigt das Guggen-heim Museum in Bilbao die Arbeiten des Künstlers Claes Oldenburg, der neben Andy Warhol und Roy Lichtenstein als einer der bedeutendsten Vertreter der

Pop Art gilt. Die bisher größte Ausstel-lung des 83-jährigen Künstlers zeigt Ol-denburgs Darstellungen ganz alltäglicher Objekte wie zum Beispiel drei Meter große Pommes Frites oder riesengroße Kuchen. Diese sind als eine Kritik an der

Kultur des Konsums in der westlichen Welt zu verstehen. Oldenburg wurde 1929 in Schweden geboren, wuchs aber in Chicago in den Vereinigten Staaten auf. Ab Mitte der 60er Jahre konzen-trierte er sich in seinen Arbeiten auf Kolossalobjekte, in denen er Alltagsge-genstände durch Monumentalisierung verfremdete. Oldenburg blieb auch in späteren Jahren bei den großen Kunst-objekten. Für die Documenta 7 in Kassel fertigte er 1982 eine zwölf Meter hohe Spitzhacke an. In Frankfurt ist seit 1994 seine Skulptur einer zehn Meter großen Krawatte zu sehen, die er zusammen mit seiner Ehefrau, der Künstlerin Coosje van Bruggen, entworfen hatte. Die im Wind zu fl attern scheinende Krawatte soll eine Persifl age auf die im Hochhaus arbeiten-den, immer korrekt gekleideten Büro-menschen darstellen und wurde von der DG Bank in Auftrag gegeben.

Until mid-February, the Guggenheim Bilbao is showing the largest exhibition to date of Claes Oldenburg‘s ground-breaking work from the 1960s. Born in Stockholm but brought up in Chicago, Oldenburg’s fi rst show was in 1959, after which he soon became one of the leading fi gures of pop art. The exhibition, entitled Claes Oldenburg: The Sixties, focuses on his representations of ordinary objects, highlighting our capitalist culture’s obsession with consumer goods through large-scale art. Expect three metre-tall French fries and perfectly inedible burgers.

www.guggenheim-bilbao.es

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Black Medicine Co! ee Company(2 Nicolson Street; 108 Marchmont Road; 10 Barclay Terrace; blackmed.co.uk) "A little local chain. They do a nice, strong co! ee and usually have really good music playing."

Surgeons' Hall Museums (Nicolson Street; museum.rcsed.ac.uk, tel: +44 (0)131 527 1649) "There’s everything here from early dentistry tools to death masks. It's great if you like your museums on the dark side."

Elvis Shakespeare(347 Leith Walk; elvisshakespeare.com, +44 (0)131 561 1363)

"Mainly second-hand comics, DVDs, books, CDs, LPs and singles. It does occasional little gigs with a band or a singer/songwriter. It's just very quirky."

Bow Bar (80 West Bow; tel: +44 (0)131 226 7667) "A huge range of real ales, and no bells and whistles. Just a great place to sit down and have a drink."

The Last Drop (74-78 Grassmarket; tel: +44 (0)131 225 4851) "It‘s named the Last Drop because it's in spitting distance of where they used to hang people. They do food and a really nice range of whiskeys and beers."

The Blue Blazer(2 Spittal Street; tel: +44 (0)131 229 5030) "An authentic Edinburgh bar, with a real mix of people, but not many tourists. It‘s got a tiny back room where really interesting conversations go on."

CentoTre (103 George Street; centotre.com, tel: +44 (0)131 225 1550 )"Go to this lovely Italian restaurant in a converted bank for co! ee and cake, a cocktail, lunch or dinner – it‘s very fl exible – and the bu! alo mozzarella is the best I've tasted."

Calton Hill(End of Princes Street) "From here you get a

lovely, free, 360° view of Edinburgh, and the surrounding hills and extinct volcanos, so you can get your bearings."

Arthur‘s Seat (Holyrood Palace) "An extinct volcano in the middle of the city. You can go round to bits where you‘d think you‘re in the middle of the Highlands – all you see is wilderness. I’ve used it quite a few times in my books for bodies being found and chase scenes – it's very evocative."

National Museum of Scotland (Chambers Street; nms.ac.uk, tel: +44 (0)300 123 6789) "It's free, it's just had a makeover and, if it's

raining and you‘ve got kids, it's an absolutely fantastic place to go.”

Scottish National Gallery (The Mound; nationalgalleries.org, tel: +44 (0)131 624 6200) "Another free one and it has a terrifi c collection, especially the 19th-century French stu! tucked away upstairs where nobody ever goes."

Edinburgh Zoo (134 Corstophine Road; edinburghzoo.org.uk, tel: +44 (0)131 334 9171) "There are two pandas who are a big draw. You have to book tickets. They‘re desperate for the female to get pregnant, but it hasn’t happened yet."

B L A C KB O O K

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23-25/11

Brussels Tattoo ConventionWith 220 artists and live bands aplenty, this is the place to get inked this month. Use our I-Spy guide to popular body art:

Vienna Art WeekWith the high-falutin' title of Predicting Memories, this year's city-wide exhibitions will expand your brain. viennaartweek.com

Weekends

Pig out in BolognaNovember in the Emilia-Romagna region means salami and lots of it. Pig butchers battle it out in the November Porc competition to have the biggest, longest and heaviest specimens (don't snigger). The good news? You get to eat them. novemberporc.it

Write a bookIt's National Novel Writing Month and you've got until 30 November to write 50,000 words starting... now! nanowrimo.org

Swedish House Mafi a, StockholmAs part of their fi nal ever tour before they split up, the electro band reconnect with their homeland. Mega.

Lawrence of Arabia – UK releaseA 50th-anniversary, fully restored version of the classic desert fl ick, featuring Peter O'Toole and Omar Sharif returns to the big screen in all its epic, sand-fi lled glory. We're loving the crazy horse riding and intense (or should that be in-tents?!) acting. It's certainly looking pretty good for its age. But then it has had work.

Kiloshop, ParisThis store in the Marais brings a new concept to vintage shopping – buy by weight. We love this: silk weighs less than cotton! kilo-shop.fr

19/11

All month

Just opened

22-24/11

23/11

StarsCelestial bodies, often to be found adorning the necks and wrists of bored graphic designers.

Chinese symbolsThe favoured tats of middle-class students – meanings should be double- (and triple-) checked.

SwallowDesign originating with 19th-century sailors to mark 500 miles travelled in one journey, Hipsters love 'em.

Gothic scriptLettering used in ancient times on Bibles and scrolls; often found stencilled on wannabe gangsters.

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8-11/11

Fuerteventura Kite FestivalIt's probably the only time you'll be thankful for the strong Atlantic winds circling the Canary Islands: hundreds of kites take to the sky above La Playa del Burro. It'll be di! cult to catch any winter sun under the 240 individual kite displays on show, but it's well worth missing out on a few rays for. fuerteventura.com

All month

What mo should you grow?Movember is upon us again and Europe's young men are embracing lip hair in the name

of charity. Use our handy mo chart to fi nd out what to do with yours...

START Are you a man?

Is your facial hair fast

growing?

Do you own a motorbike?

Do you own a facial hair trimmer?

Are you a historical

re-enactor?

Are you an eccentric Spaniard?

No mo for you, sorry. Unless you

want to risk social death.

Are you fastidious about your

appearance?

YES YES YES

YES

YES

YES

YES

YESNO

NO

NO

NO

NO

NO

NO

NO

Do you have pretensions to a

dictatorship?

ToothbrushLess popular in

the last 50 years thanks to a certain

person. There's always one...

ChevronBeloved by fat men

with superiority complexes and

medallion-wearing lotharios.

ImperialTo carry this o!

you'll need a sti! upper lip – for all

the abuse. Get your duelling pistols.

DaliThe Spanish artist loved his so much

he made a fi lm about it. That's mo-mmitment.

HandlebarThis 70s gay-bar staple has been

reclaimed by the hipster crowd. Pair with skinny jeans.

Fu ManchuOnly Ming

emperors and Hollywood baddies

look good in this one. Beware.

HorseshoePopularised by 80s wrestlers, this one demands you own

a chopper. No bike, no dice.

PencilThe non-hirsute have to settle for this poor man's lip worm. Hang

your head.

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5WINE EVENTS

On 15 November the new Beaujolais is uncorked in Beujeu, France, but there are other delicious options right now. Nina

Caplan suggests her top places for a glass this month

Weird food trend alert!Eating insects has been big news for a while now, but it seems the creepy, crawly ingredients don’t stop there. Next on the menu? Scorpions, which can be found on tables like London's Archipelago and now – for the home-munching option – apparently "oven baked and ready to eat" from fi rebox.com (£11.99 [!15]). The only question is: are you ready for them?

1Les Trois Glorieuses (17-21/11) hosts dinners, tastings and a post-harvest

auction at the historic Hospices de Beaune (fl y to Lyon).

2Merano Wine Festival (9-12/11) showcases the best Italian and

international wines in the historic Kurhaus building (fl y to Verona).

3It's the World Tru! e Market in Alba this month (weekends until 18/11) –

match with a glass of the venerable local Barolo (fl y to Turin).

4Traditionally, the Portugese celebrate St Martin’s Day (11/11) with a low-

alcohol drink called agua-pé... but port is a lot nicer (fl y to Porto).

5Head to Jerez – it’s still fairly warm here but quieter at this time of year;

perfect for appreciating local sherry, its unique fortifi ed wine (fl y to Seville).

15-18/11

Salsa Festival, TallinnEstonia turns Latino for four days in November. If it wasn’t for the freezing temperatures, you might think you were in Brazil as workshops by international teachers throughout the days teach you the scorching salsa moves you need for fi ery fi estas in the evenings. tallinnsalsafestival.org

New

15/11

TOP

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