PREPARED BY

SHEEBA.C

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR ,

DEPARTMENT OF COSTUME DESIGN AND FASHION

TEXTILE PROCESSING

TEXTILE FINISHES

Textile finishes refer to a finishing

treatment given to a fiber, yarn, fabric

either before or after fabrication to

improve its physical appearance,

functionally, hand , drape, and easy

care features.

APPLICATION OF TEXTILE FINISHES

1.Water bath finish

▪ It is one of the main application method for

year.

▪ Inexpensive, and readily available solvent.

▪ In this method , the chemical was dissolved

in water and applied on to the fabric by

immersion and squeezing out the extra.

APPLICATION OF FINISHES

2.Foam finishes

▪ Foam finishing saves water and energy.

▪ This method utilize foam instead of a liquid

to apply the finish.

▪ Foam is made up of a mixture of air and

liquid and therefore a small amount of

liquid is used and absorbed by the fabric.

APPLICATION OF FINISHES

3.Solvent finish

▪ Solvent finishing was developed to reduce

water pollution and lower energy costs.

▪ In this process , the finishing chemical is

mixed in a solvent.

These finishes can be applied in open width

or rope form.

CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES

Finishes can be classified as based on,

• Types of finish: preparatory finishes, aesthetic finishes, and functional finishes

• Process of finishing : Chemical finishes and mechanical finishes

• Durability of finishes : Permanent finishes, durable finishes, semi-durable finishes and temporary finishes

1.PREPARATORY FINISHES

The preparatory finishes are applied to

fabrics to make them suitable for dyeing,

printing, and further finishing processes.

▪ Desizing:

Desizing is a process of removal of sizes

starches and other substances applied to

the yarns before the process of weaving.

PREPARATORY FINISHES

▪ Singing

The process of singeing involves the

burning of fiber ends projecting from the

fabric by using one or more gas flames.

This process helps in making the fabric

smoother and finer.

PREPARATORY FINISHES

▪ Souring

Souring is carried out to remove natural or

applied impurities from the fabric before

further finishing operations and dyeing.

The impurities could be in the form of oils,

starches, natural waxes, soil, and color

tints.

PREPARATORY FINISHES

▪ Bleaching

Bleaching is carried out to remove the

natural color and hydrophobic impurities of

the fiber and make it white in color.

It is done on fibers, yarns or fabrics. Most

bleaches, such as hydrogen peroxide are

oxidizing agents and the action is carried out

by the active oxygen present in them.

PREPARATORY FINISHES

▪ Mercerizing:

Cellulosic yarns or fabrics undergo the

mercerization treatment to increase their

strength, luster, softness and affinity for

dyes and water- borne finishes due to

swelling of the fibers.

PREPARATORY FINISHES

▪ Sizing

Sizing finish provides stiffness, weight and

body to the fabric.

Water-soluble sizing is temporary, while

rein-based sizing is permanent.

During the process, the fabric is immersed

in a mixture of waxes, oils, glycerin and

softeners in adequate quantity. Talc, clay or

chalk is used to add weight to the fabric.

PREPARATORY FINISHES

Calendering involves a pressing process in

which a fabric is passed between heavy

rollers to make it smooth and glossy, it is a

mechanical finish and the process is not

permanent and needs to be repeated after

each laundering.

2.AESTHETIC FINISHES

Aesthetic Finishes are applied to fabrics tochange their appearance and hand. Theycreate and applied design on the alreadyconstructed fabric and are therefore quickerand less expensive to produce than fabricswith structural designs, that is, designsincorporated during fabric construction , suchas dobby and jacquard patterns, in woven'sand knits.

AESTHETIC FINISHES

▪ Luster Finishes

Luster finishes are applied to improve the

fabric luster. They act by changing the light

reflectance of a fabric. These finishes are

applied by calendering, in which the fabric

passes between two cylinders, which exert

pressure to apply the finish.

AESTHETIC FINISHES

▪ Moireing

The moire effect provides a wood grain or watermarked appearance.

▪ Schreinerizing.

Schreinerizing provides a sharp line appearance.

This process is carried out with a metal rollerengraved with very fine 200-500 diagonal linesper inch of the roller.

3.FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

Functional finishes given to fabrics to

improve their performance in terms of

stability , shape, appearance, comfort,

resistance to insects and microbes, and

safety.

a)Comfort Related Finishes

Comfort related finishes are given to fabrics to them

comfortable to wear.

▪ Water-repellent Finishes :

Water-repelling fabrics are resistant to wetting but tend to

get wet in excessive water, water repellency is dependent

on surface tension and fabric permeability and therefore

can be controlled by a combination of right fabric

construction and finishing .

a)Comfort Related Finishes

▪ Water-repellent Finishes

Water-repelling fabrics need to have a very high warp

count and should be made of regular yarns.

The most common water-repelling chemicals are

silicones, as they are durable when combined with durable

press finished. These also give the fabric good drape,soft

hand and stain resistance.

Comfort Related Finishes

▪ Anti- static Finishes

Static build up refers to the problem of garments clinging

on to the body or to other fabrics. Static build-up also

creates problems during production as fabrics cling to the

machinery and attract dust and dirt.

Anti-static finishes in the form of ammonium compounds

are applied to reduce the static build-up on fabrics. These

finishes act by improving surface conductivity so that

excess electrons move to the atmosphere or ground.

b)Safety-Related Finishes

Safety-related finishes are applied on fabrics to

make the wearer safe as per their usage. There are

various types of Safety-related finishes.

▪ Flame –Retarding Finishes

Flame-related finishes act by either blocking the flame’s

access to fuel and hindering flame propagation or emitting

a flame extinguishing gas. They also act by modifying the

solids so that the end-products of combustion are not

volatile or require excess heat to continue the fire.

c)Biological Control Finishes

A large number of insects can damage textiles,

especially when the fabric is stored in dump and

warm conditions. Therefore, the fabrics should

always be stored in dry conditions after cleaning.

For extra protection, some finishes can be

applied to the fabrics.

Biological Control Finishes

▪ Anti-Mildew Finishes

Both cellulosic and protein fibres are damaged by

moulds and mildew. It is best to prevent mildew growth

by keeping textiles clean and dry and by regularly sunning

and airing them. Electric lights and dehumidifiers can be

used in dark and humid places.

The finishes in the form of salicylanilide, also known as

fungicides are applied to prevent mildew growth.

Biological Control Finishes

▪ Anti-Moth Finishes

Insects, such as silverfish, crickets and cockroaches,

damage textiles, especially the textiles that are soiled.

Moths and carpet beetles damage protein fibers. The

problem aggravates in heat and moisture.

▪ Insect control finishes, knows as fumigants and

insecticides can be used to protect the fabrics.

▪ Other method of insects control storing fabrics in a cold

place.

Biological Control Finishes

Anti-Bacterial Finishes

Anti-Bacterial finishes act by inhibiting the

growth of bacteria and other odor-causing germs,

preventing damage due to sweat, controlling

spread of disease, and reducing infection risk

after injury. These finishes are also known as

antibacterial , antiseptic and germicidal. These

finishes are used in hospital linen; contract

carpeting, and skin contact clothing.

Biological Control Finishes

▪ Anti-Bacterial Finishes

The most widely used finish these days is irradiation

treatment or sterilization, also known as electron beam

sterilization.

This treatment is cheaper, simpler, safer and is used for

medical products, such as sutures and bandages. The

beam can penetrate thermoplastic and foil packaging and

therefore the goods can even be treated in the packed

state. This process maintains the sterile environment until

the package is opened.

DYEING

Definition:

Dyeing is the application of dyes or

pigments on textile materials such as fibers,

yarns, and fabrics with the goal of

achieving color with desired color fastness.

TEXTILE DYEING

Dye:

A dye can generally be described as a colored substance that

has an affinity to the substrate to which it is being applied. The

dye is usually used as an aqueous solution and may require

a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber.

Pigment:

Pigments are the special type of dyeing or printing materials

for wet processing technology. Generally pigment is use for

printing. Pigments can be define as a water insoluble coloring

material mostly mineral origin have been used for coloration of

metal, wood, stone and textile materials

Difference between Printing and Dyeing

Dyeing has no

localized application.

According to

the design printing has localized

application of dyes or pigments on the

fabric

Color is

applied in form of solution.

Color is

applied in form of thick paste.

In this

process fabric, yarn and fibers are dyed.

In printing

only fabric are print.

liquor ratio is higher. Less liquor ratio here than dyeing

application.

Thickener is not used here. Thickener is widely used here.

Steaming is

not required on dyed material.

Steaming is used in the printed fabric for

fixation.

Here, color penetrates throughout the

fabric.

Here, color is applied only in the fabric

surface.

less expensive. More expensive.

Classification of dye

DYES

Acid or Anionic Dyes

Acid or Anionic dyes have a complete color

range and can be used on protein fibers and man-

made fibers, such as polyester, modified acrylic

and modified rayon.

The dyes produce bright colors but have poor

fastness to washing and therefore fabrics need to

be dry-cleaned.

DYES

Azoic Dyes

Azoic dyes are applied in cold bath with ice, as

this helps lower the dye-bath temperature for

efficient dyeing.

They are also known as ice colors.

The dyes have a complete color of bright shades

in yellows,reds and blacks.

The dyes are cheap and are mainly used for

cottons along with limited use on acetate and

nylon.

DYES

Basic or Cationic Dyes

The first synthetic dyes produced belonged to the class

of Basic or Cationic dyes.

It also have a complete color range with bright colors,

but have limited use these days.

It can be used to dye cottons with the help of mordants,

while other fibers, such as wool, silk, nylon, acrylic, and

polyester, can be dyed without mordanting.

Basic days are mainly used on acrylics and for direct

printing on acetate and discharge printing on cottons.

DYES

Direct Dyes(developed)

Direct (developed) dyes are developed in the

fiber with the help of copper salts.

It also have a complete color range through the

colors are not as bright as in the case of acid or

basic dyes.

They are used to dye cellulosic fibers, but some

can dye wool, silk, and nylon fibres.

DYES

Disperse Dyes

Disperse class of dyes was developed for acetates but ispresently used for all man-made fibers.

Disperse dye is insoluble in water, the dye particlesdisperse in water so as to dissolve in fibers.

Shade range is good.

The dye fastness to light is fair to excellent whilehaving fair to good wash fastness.

Fastness to perspiration, rubbing, and sea water is good,but it can stain wool badly.

DYES

Reactive Dyes

Reactive dyes are available in several varieties,

such as hot and cold. These dyes form chemical

combinations with the fiber and produce the

brightest shade on cottons.

The dye provides good all-around fastness and is

used for dyeing at the fiber stage, yarn stage,

fabric stage and is also used for printing.

DYES

Reactive Dyes

Some reactive dyes can be used for wool, silk

nylons, acrylics, and blends.

These dyes have good light, wash and dry-

cleaning fastness.

They also have good resistance to bleeding

perspiration, rubbing, and sea water.

DYES

Sulfur Dyes

Sulfur dyes are generally insoluble in water. The

colors are not bright and shade range is also

incomplete.

The dye can be applied at the fiber, yarn of fabric

stage.

It Is used for both heavy woven and cotton knits,

and jute and linen. It is not used much for

printing.

DYES

Vat Dyes

Vat Dyes are insoluble in water and require

reduction for their application . Their shade

range is incomplete. They are mainly used for

cottons and sometimes woolens, mostly for

printing.

These dyes have good light, wash, and dry-

cleaning fastness along with having food

resistance to perspiration, rubbing, sea water and

bleeding.

DYES

A mordant is a substance used to set dyes on

fabrics by forming a coordination complex with

the dye which then attaches to the fabric.

STAGES OF DYEING

▪ Stock dyeing at the fiber stage

▪ Top dyeing at the sliver stage

▪ Dope dyeing before a man made fiber is

extruded from the spinneret

▪ Yarn dyeing after the fiber has been spun into

yarn

▪ Piece dyeing after the yarn has been constructed

into fabric

▪ Garment dyeing after the apparel has been

constructed

METHODS OF DYEING

The process of dyeing can also be classified onthe basis of the dyeing methods. The followingare the three methods of combining the dye withthe textile:

• Batch Dyeing : Textile is circulated in a dye-bath

• Package Dyeing : Dye-bath is circulated around the textile

• Combination Dyeing : Both textile and dye-bath are circulated together.

a)Batch dyeing

Batch dyeing is also known as exhaust dyeing. In

this process, the textile is circulated through the

dye-bath.

The process has good flexibility in terms of color

selection and low cost. Temperature can be

controlled depending on the dye fiber

combination. Beck dyeing, jig dyeing and pad

dyeing are some examples of this type of dyeing.

Winch dyeing

The winch or beck dyeing machine is oldest form of piece dyeing machine.

It is suitable for practical all types of fabric,especially light weights, which can normallywithstand creasing when in rope form as woolen andsilk fabric, loosely woven cotton and syntheticfabrics, circular and warp knitted fabrics.

This a dyeing machine for fabrics in rope forms withstationary liquor and moving material.

Winch dyeing machine

Jigger dyeing

Jigger dyeing machine is the most commonly used fordyeing all kinds of cotton fabric. There are mainly two typesof jigger dyeing machine. One is open jigger dyeingmachine and other is closed jigger dyeing machine.This machine consists of V shaped stainless steel vessel.Two rollers are fitted above the vessel called as cloth rollers.These rollers are rotated by power.Out of these two rollers one roller is driven by a motorwhich is called take up roller and the other roller fromwhich the cloth is delivered is called let off roller.When all the cloth is passed from the let off roller to thetake up roller, it is called as one end or one turn. Thenumber of ends or turns depends upon the type of thefabric and also the percentage of the shade.

Jigger dyeing machine

b) Package dyeing

In Package dyeing, the dye-bath is forced

through the textile. Normally, the textile is

in yarn stage but the technique is also used

for some fiber or fabric dyeing. Examples

include beam dyeing, skein dyeing,

package dyeing, stock dyeing and top

dyeing.

Package dyeing machine

c)Combination Dyeing

In combination dyeing, both textile and

dye-bath are circulated, for example,

jet dyeing, paddle machine dyeing.

Jet dyeing

Jet dyeing is a process that can be used for batch dyeingoperations such as dyeing, bleaching, washing and rinsing.

In this process, dyeing is accomplished in a closed tubularsystem, basically composed of an impeller pump and ashallow dye bath.

The fabric to be dyed is loosely collapsed in a form of a rope,and tied into a loop.

The impeller pump supplies a jet of dye solution, propelled bywater and/or air, which transport the fabric within the dyeingsystem ,surrounded by dye liquor , under optimumconditions.

Turbulence created by the jet aids in dye penetration andprevents the fabric from touching the walls of the tube, thusminimizing mechanical impact on the fabric.

Jet dyeing

Padding machine

Padding mangle offer continuous process of thefabric in concerned liquor , such as pretreatment,dyeing or

finishing.

Application of dyestuffs is conducted in the paddyeing machines with single or multiple dipping insolution. During padding, the fabric passes into asolution of chemicals, under a submerged roller andout of the bath. It is then squeezed to remove excesssolution .

Padding machine

PRINTING

Printing is coloring applied to pre-planned

areas of a fabric surface. In printing, a

pattern to a design is imprinted on the

fabric in in one or more colors using dyes

or pigments in paste form or by other

means.

PRINTING

The printing paste is made up of the following ingredients

along with the colorant:

• Catalysis : Help bond the pigment to the fiber.

• Opacifiers : Give different type of luster, such as flossy,

matte, and metallic, to the print and produce a pigment

with good covering power.

• Thickeners : Help produce dark shades. They are added to

avoid migration of the paste to surrounding areas.

• Thinners : Help to thin down a thick paste when added.

PRINTING

• Anti-bleeding agents: Eliminate the halo effect, keeping

the print edges sharp and clear.

• Softeners : Help maintain a soft hand.

• Retarders : Help slow down the drying process when

added to the paste. This is helpful in the maintenance of

screens.

• Dryers : Help speed up the drying process in slow-drying

pigments.

Classification of printing

TYPES OF PRINTS

a).Direct Prints

In direct prints, color in the form of printing paste is applied directly to the fabric in pattern.

This method of manufacturing the direct prints is easy and economical. These are darker color prints on white or light color background.

Patterns are sharp at the front side and slightly dullat the back side.

Printing methods

Block printing

This is a traditional printing method where a blockmade from wood, rubber, sponge or metal is shapedinto a relief pattern (usually using a laser cutter or byhand), then dye is applied to the block and it is handprinted, or stamped, on to fabric. The print can thenbe repeated several times to achieve a pattern.

Block printing

Printing method

Screen printing:This method requires a screen, which is a frame with a finemesh fabric tightly stretched over it. A pattern is either instencil form or is blocked off on the screen itself, using ascreen for each colour to be printed. Dye is pushed throughthe mesh fabric with a squeegee tool to evenly disperse thedye into the fabric below in the areas that have not beenblocked out.Flat-screen printing is done in a similar way but machinesoperate each stage and often the pattern is applied to thescreen digitally.Digital printing is a favored method for small batches offabric, as screen printing is an expensive process requiringspace and specialist equipment.

Screen printing

Printing method

Engraved Roller Printing

Engraved roller printing is an industrial method forlarge print runs; metal rollers are engraved with apattern and dye reservoirs apply the color as needed.As in screen printing, a roller is needed for eachcolor; the method is therefore too expensive for shortruns of fabric, but it can be very cost-effective forlarge print runs as hundreds of metres can beprinted per minute.

Engraved Roller printing

Printing method

Stenciling

Stencils are made from card.

The pattern is cut out and then the dye is sponged orbrushed into the cut-out areas. Each stencil can beused several times.

Today many stencils are made using computerizedcutting machines for more accuracy than hand-cutstencils.

Stencil print

Printing method

Digital Printing

A design can be made on the computer usingcomputer-aided design (CAD) packages and theneither transferred on to paper (sublimation paper),which can be transferred to the fabric with heat, or itcan be directly printed on to the fabric using a textileprinter and then steam heated to fix the design.

In direct printing the fabric may need to be thickenedusing a special chemical agent, which can be washedout afterwards, to help it feed through the printer.

Digital printing

Printing method

Rotary screen printing Rotary screen printing uses seamless cylindrical screens

made of metal foil. The machine uses a rotary screen for each colour. As the

fabric is fed under uniform tension into the printer sectionof the machine, its back is usually coated with an adhesivewhich causes it to adhere to a conveyor printing blanket.

The fabric passes under the rotating screen through whichthe printing paste is automatically pumped from pressuretanks.

A squeegee in each rotary screen forces the pastethrough the screen onto the fabric as it moves along . Thefabric then passes to a drying oven.

Rotary Screen printing

Printing method

Heat-transfer printing

In heat-transfer printing, the pattern is firstprinted onto a special paper substrate. The paper isthen positioned against the fabric and subjected toheat and pressure. The dyes are transferred tothe fabric via sublimation.

TYPES OF PRINTS

2.Discharge Prints

Discharge prints are unique in which the pattern

is created by removing color from the selected

areas of the fabric and leaving it devoid of any

color or introducing another color from where

the discharge paste has removed color. This

technique is carried out on dark background to

attain maximum color effect.

TYPES OF PRINTS

3.Resist Prints

In Resist prints, color absorption in fabrics is

blocked or resisted at the time if yarn or fabric

dyeing. There are three different types of resist

prints .

Types of Resist Prints

a)Batik :

Batik involves the application of hot wax to

resist color application in specified areas. The

wax is applied by hand depending on the

design and is then left to harden. The fabric is

then piece dyed and the hardened wax prevents

the penetration of color into the waxed areas.

The wax is later removed to get the batik

printed fabric.

Batik

TYPES OF RESIST PRINTS

Tie and Dye:

This is also a hand process in which the color penetration

is resisted by using tightly tied cotton threads. It is a

laborious process producing beautiful result in a number

of colors.

In tie and dye, the yarn or fabric to be dyed is first tied

with thread to resist color penetration in areas as required

by the design and then dyed in the first color, which is

lightest of all. This process of tying and dyeing continues

till the product is colored in its final color.

Tie and Dye

TYPES OF RESIST PRINTS

Ikat :

Ikat is a traditional art of weaving in which the yarn is

tied in a pattern specified by the design to resist color

from entering in those areas.

The yarn is then dyed and the ready yarn is used to

weave a fabric in which the design can be formed by

only warp dyeing, weft dyeing, or a combination of

warp and weft dyeing.

These techniques are know as warp ikat, weft ikat and

double ikat, respectively.

Ikat dyeing

Thank you