141

THE INFLUENCE OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF ABRASIVESON THE PROPERTIES OF EMULSION-BASED SCRUBS

Kazimierz Pulaski University of Technology and Humanities in RadomDepartment of Physical and Inorganic Chemistry, Chair of ChemistryFaculty of Materials Science and DesignCorresponding author: Chrobrego Str. 27, 26-600 Radom, a.malysa@uthrad.pl

Abstract: The article presents the assessment of the influence of different types

of abrasives on the performance of emulsion-based scrubs. Based on published

reports, as well as market analysis, a ingredients of recipes for emulsion-based scrubs

were developed. Following this, fine-grained abrasives of both natural (olive seed,

apricot seed, grape seed) and semi-synthetic (jojoba ester) origins having a particle

-5% depending

on weight - were introduced. The influence of the concentration of abrasives

on the stability, viscosity, degree of hydration of the skin and sensory properties

were analysed. Comparative analyses of the performance of the original scrubs

with a high-quality commercial product were carried out. The results showed

that the stability of the formulations was to a lesser extent influenced by the content

and type of abrasive rather than the emulsifier used (INCI: Ceterareth -20). It was also

found that the increase of abrasive content significantly increased the viscosity

of the formulations. The highest viscosity had composition containing olive seeds

as abrasive and the lowest viscosity had scrubs with grapes and jojoba seeds.

The formulations had satisfactory sensory and moisturizing properties similar to those

of a commercial product.

Keywords: scrubs, emulsions, abrasives

142

1. INTRODUCTION

The basis of skin care is its thorough cleansing. On the market there are

many cleansing products, these include among others: soaps, make-up remover

lotions, lotions and gels. These are cosmetics for daily skin care. The typical

skin cleansers can also include scrubs [Goreja 2004].

The term scrub defines not only cosmetics containing abrasives

and exfoliating substances, e.g. enzymes or acids, but also all kinds of beauty

treatments such as microdermabrasion or cavitation scrubbing. The main task

of the broadly-defined scrubbing is the exfoliation of the dead epidermis cells,

resulting in skin cleansing and accelerating the cell renewal. Scrubs can also

help eliminate cosmetic or facial lesions occurring on the skin.

They are used inter alia for the removal of scars, stains lightening,

treatment of acne and many others [Chakrabarty 2003, Gibicka 2004,

Malinowska 2010].

A contemporary consumer has strictly defined requirements as regards

this type of cosmetics. Scrubs, except for the cleaning should also moisturize,

lubricate, and also display regenerative action, reducing wrinkles.

Typically scrubs are in the form of a gel, containing different kinds of abrasive

particles, i.e. ground seeds, brown sugar or plastic [Berardesca et al. 1997,

Osowski 2006, Gorecka 2011, Zawadzka-Szewczyk 2011]. However,

such compounds contain a significant share of surfactants and can over-dry

the skin. Additionally, only water-soluble substances can be introduced

into them, which restricts the use of higher concentrations of hydrophobic care

additives such as essential oils, vegetable oils or vitamins [Van Scott

and Yu 1984, Dawgul -Rybak 2009]. Much smoother

in operation are the scrubs occurring in the form of an emulsion. Such a form

of cosmetic ensures the maintenance of the water-lipid balance

143

of the epidermis and providing the skin with suitable materials, performing

protective, antibacterial, antiperspirant functions and being perfect care as

well. Moreover, due to the presence of the oil and aqueous phases they create

the possibility of introducing into the preparation both active hydrophilic

and lipophilic substances. The skin after exfoliation becomes smooth, soft,

moisturized, but also less resistant to the effects of external mechanical,

thermal and chemical factors [Williams and Schmitt 1992, Mitsui 1998,

Malinka 1999, Butler 2000, Wiesman et al. 2003

2006, Arct et al. 2011, ek, ba and Mazurek 2011].

The aim of this work is to develop scrub recipes occurring in the form

of emulsions, which are intended for dry skin. After careful analysis

of the market, as well as reports in the literature, recipes were developed

and scrubs were produced in the form of emulsion, differing in the levels

and types of abrasive. Considerable attention was paid to the evaluation

of the physicochemical and utility properties of the scrubs made. The effect

of the abrasive concentration on: the stability, viscosity, moisturizing

properties of the preparations made was assessed, and sensory tests were

conducted. The reference point for all studies was a high quality commercial

product.

2. MATERIALS AND METHODS

The base for the development of the appropriate recipe of the preparation

were ba

and Mazurek 2011] and the analysis of the composition of the commercial

scrubs in the form of emulsions, which are intended for dry skin care.

In the first stage the objective was to obtain a stable emulsion O/W,

with similar sensory properties to the commercial product.

144

Table 1. The original recipes of the scrubs in the form of an emulsion

Phase Trade Name INCIConcentration [% wt.]

A B C D

Paraffin OilParaffinumLiquidum

6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0

Lanette OCetearylAlkohol

6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5

Eumulgin B2 Ceteareth-20 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

Silicone Dimethicone 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5

Crodamol IPPIsopropylPalmitate

1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0

Pineapple OilAnanas

Sativus Oil2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

Glycerin Glycerin 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

PropyleneGlycol

Propyleneglycol

1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0

D-pantenol Panthenol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

Grape seedpowder 500

Grapepowder

2.0 5.0 - - - - - -

Jojoba Beads40/60

JojobaEsters

- - 2.0 2.0 - - - -

Jojoba Beads60/100

JojobaEsters

- - - 3.0 - - - -

Apricot kernelpowder 500

Apricotpowder

- - - - 2.0 5.0 - -

Olive kernelpowder 300

Olivepowder

- - - - - - 2.0 5,0

Preservative Preservative q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Water Aquato

100to

100to

100to

100to

100to

100to

100to

100

own work

145

The test material consisted of 8 basic recipes, to which one kind

of an abrasive was introduced. The following 4 abrasives have been selected:

grape seeds (INCI: Grape Powder), jojoba esters (INCI: Jojoba Esters), apricot

kernels (INCI: Apricot Powder): olive stones (INCI: Olive Powder).

Each of the abrasives was introduced at two different concentrations,

i.e. 2% and 5%. The recipes of all scrubs were eventually marked with the first

letters of the alphabet: A, A ', B, B', C, C ', D, D' and listed in Table 1.

Preparations named with the same letter contained the same type

of an abrasive, but in different concentrations, for example. A- the abrasive

(INCI: Grape Powder) also (INCI: Grape Powder), but in the con-

centration of 5%.

The preparations were made as follows: the oil phase and the aqueous

phase components were measured, both phases were heated in a water bath

to the temperature of 85 C, then combined by continuous stirring,

homogenized until cool. A suitable amount of the abrasive was measured

and a preservative added.

The point of reference in the evaluation was "A scrub cream"

of reputable company.

The components of the abrasive scrubbing the epidermis are:

polyethylene and apricot kernels. The characteristics of the ingredients

and the scrub properties are presented in Table 2.

The centrifugal test was performed using a centrifuge type MPW-2,

at a speed of 1000 and 3000 rpm and during the sample centrifugation

for 30 minutes. The thermal test consisted in storage of cream samples

alternately in an an ELKON CL- C

for a period of 7 days. The observation was conducted every 24 hours.

a Brookfield rotat C. For the evaluation

146

of skin moisturizing a Corneometr CM 825 was used. On the skin surface

of the forearm (2 cm x 2 cm) 0.5 g of the emulsion preparation was applied

and rubbed for 15 seconds. The skin of the forearm was dried with a paper

towel and the measurements were carried out immediately after drying (0 min.)

and after: 15, 30, 45, 60 minutes after drying. Additionally, the degree of skin

moisturizing was measured before applying the preparation. The sensory

evaluation of the creams was conducted according to the methodologies

developed in the Department of Chemistry of the UTH in Radom.

The definitions and descriptions of the test procedures have been given in the

literature ek ysa and Pytlas ba and Mazurek 2011].

Table 2. The characteristics of the commercial product

ProductName

Properties declaredby the producer

according to the labelComposiotion (INCI)

Peeling Creamimproves natural skintone. Finely ground

apricot kernelsremove callous, dead

skin. The cream isenriched with pro-

vitamin B5 andvitamin C. It improves

blood circulation.

AQUA, SESAMUM INDICIUM OIL, CETEARYL

ALCOHOL, GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE,POLYETHYLENE, SORBITOL, GLYCERYL

STEARATE, PRUNUS ARMENIACA SEDDPOWDER, OLEA EUROPEA FRUIT OIL,

PHENOXYETHANOL, PANTHENOL, PARFUM,XANTHAN GUM, PROPYLENE GLYCOL,

MAGNESIUM ALUMINIUM SILICATE, POTASSIUM

SORBATE, ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN, PRUNUS

ARMENIACA FRUIT EXTRACT, CITRIC ACID,LECITHIN,, ASCORBYL PALMITATE,

ANTOLACTONE, GLYCERYL OLEATE, SODIUM

BENZOATE, SORBIC ACID, METHYLPARABEN,BUTYLPARBEN, ETHYLPARABEN,

ISOBUTYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN

own work

147

3. RESEARCH RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

3.1. An analysis of the market of scrub emulsions

To analyze the market of scrub emulsions the information on 60 products

made by 46 manufacturers have been collected. The following were taken

into account: the composition, purpose, capacity, and price (PLN/100 ml).

The analysis was conducted in November 2014 in supermarkets and drug

stores in the city of Radom and online sales. The results are shown

in the figures (Fig. 1-4).

The scrub emulsions are usually sold in tubes, rarely in jars.

The packages vary in capacity from 50 ml up to 400 ml. The dominant types

of the package are those with a capacity of 75 ml, which represent 53%

and 100 ml, which represent 37% of all analyzed body scrubs (Fig. 1).

Figure 1. The capacities of the packages of analyzed scrub emulsions. Source:

own work

The scrub emulsions market is quite diverse in terms of the properties.

Most emulsions analyzed displayed the following effect: greasing (20%),

moisturizing (25%), regenerating (20%) bleaching (5%), softening (23%),

others (7%). Very often, the brand has a range of a few, and even several

different preparations with variable effect. The division of these products

depending on the properties is shown in Fig. 2.

53%

37%

10% 75 ml

100 ml

other

148

Figure 2. The effe own work

On the basis of the raw material composition (according to INCI) given

by the manufacturers on the packaging, the scrub emulsions were analyzed in terms

of the occurring type of the abrasive (Fig. 3).

Figure 3. The types of abrasives present in the scrub emulsions.

own work

From the data (Fig. 3), it follows that the largest share of the market have

the scrubs containing polyethylene beads (28%). Rice powder and granules of jojoba

oil are the least likely used as an abrasive substance, hence the share of such products

was also 2% and 7%.

A significant share of the market gained the scrubs containing fruit stones

(20%), nut shells (16%), ground seeds of fruit (17%).

20%

25%

20%

5%

23%

7%geasing

moisturizing

regenerating

bleaching

softening

other

28%

10%

17%

20%

16%7% 2% polyethylene

brown sugar

ground seeds of fruits

fruit stones

nut shells

granules of jojoba oil

rice powder

149

Figure 4. own work

The vast majority (35%) of scrub emulsions available on the market

are the preparations for which the price varies from 5.01 PLN to 8 PLN per 100 ml.

The scrubs in the price ranges from 4 to 5 PLN and 8.01 - 10 PLN/ 100 ml constituted

respectively 25% and 15% of all the analyzed products. The cosmetics from the higher

price segment (10.01-12 and 12.01-14 PLN /100 ml) were equally at 10% of market

share. The most expensive products, whose price was located over 14 PLN / 100 ml

received the least significant market share (5%).

3.2. The influence of the type and concentration of the abrasive on stability

The basic criterion for assessing cosmetic scrubs in the form

of an emulsion is their stability. The stability evaluation consisted

in conducting two types of tests: the centrifugal and the thermal. After the tests

conducted no signs of instability have been revealed, i.e. the stratification,

the sedimentation of the abrasive, the texture or color change, the secretion

of a separate phase.

3.3. The influence of the type and concentration of the abrasive on stability

The viscosity of the cosmetic emulsions is one of the most important

quality parameters evaluated by the consumer. The suitable viscosity provides

25%

35%

15%

10%

10% 5% 4-5 zl

5,01-8 zl

8,01- 10 zl

10,01 -12 zl

12,01-14 zl

above 14 zl

150

the cosmetics with the desired application properties. Too low viscosity causes

that the preparation pours out of the package, while too high viscosity

may hinder the dosing of the preparation, smearing it on the skin or absorption.

The obtained results are shown in Fig. 5.

Figure 5. The dependence of dynamic viscosity of the preparations on the type

and concentration of the applied abrasive. (Brookfield Viscometer RV DVI

+ temp. 22 C, spindle speed 50 rpm). Source: own work

Figure 5 shows the dependence of dynamic viscosity on the type

and concentration of the abrasive. It was observed that all scrubs made

that contained 2% of the abrasive showed a lower viscosity compared

to the preparations with the concentration equal to 5% of the abrasive.

It was found that the difference in viscosity between preparations made i.e. A,

A ', B, B', C, C ', D, D', is insignificant. In contrast, a large difference from

the above-mentioned scrubs, can be observed in the case of the commercial

preparation. The commercial product containing 2 different abrasives:

polyethylene and apricot kernels, reached the highest viscosity of 10,300

s). The second in s) was the preparation D,

containing the oil seeds as the abrasive in the concentration of 5%.

0

2000

4000

6000

8000

10000

12000

Tradeproduct

A B C D

Recipe

2% abrasive 5% abrasive

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3.4. The evaluation of the skin moisture factor.

Currently, one of the most important determinants of the quality of

creams is the care effect. Consumers are looking for products which will secure

moisturizing and smoothing the skin, thereby preventing its exfoliation and

cracking.

The moisturizing properties of the original scrub emulsions through

corneometer measurements of the skin moisture factor. The obtained results

are shown in Fig. 6.

Figure 6. The dependence of the skin moisture factor on time for the cosmetic scrubs

and for the commercial product (Corneometer CM 825, measuring temperature 22 C).

own work

It has been demonstrated that all the applied preparations resulted

in an increase of the skin hydration. The highest values were observed

immediately after exfoliation of the skin (t = 0 min). However, with time

the skin hydration decreases slightly. The commercial product displays

the best moisturizing properties of all the preparations, which showed

40

45

50

55

60

65

70

0 15 30 45 60

Time [min.]

Control area

Trade product

A

B

C

D

152

the highest capacity to moisturize the skin, equal 67 a.u. In comparison

with the control area, in the last measurement of moisture it caused the increase

of the hydration by as much as 11 units a.u.

The preparation D hydrated the skin comparatively to the same degree

as the commercial product. The least skin moisturizing capabilities

were displayed by preparation A. For preparations: C, C ', D a relatively high

level of hydration was shown at 57 a.u.

3.5 The sensory assessment

The sensory assessment is of great importance for the evaluation

and optimization of the effects of cosmetic recipes. It allows to compare

the utility properties of different cosmetic products and their adaptation

to consumer preferences. For this purpose, the original eight preparations

were evaluated according to strictly defined parameters (Fig. 7). The evalua-

tion was based on the determination by a team of experts by means

of differential methods: adhesion, consistency, homogeneity, effect of pillows,

spreading, absorption, greasiness, smoothness in relation to the standard

(commercial product). A three-scale assessment has been established: "better",

"the same", "worse" in relation to a reference sample, and it was given what %

of respondents expressed such an opinion.

Almost all the scrubs, in the view of most probands were characterized

by better sensory properties than the commercial product. The exceptions are

the preparations A and B, which in terms of the oiling parameter, were rated

by 50% of the probands as better than the commercial product, and according

to the remaining half of probands, they were rated the same (A), or worse (B).

153

ADHESION CONSISTENCY

HOMOGENEITY EFECT OF PILLOWS

SPREADING ABSORTPION

GREASING SMOOTHNESS

Figure 7. own work

A A' B B' C C' D D'

Better The same Worse

A A' B B' C C' D D'

Better The same Worse

A A' B B' C C' D D'

Better The same Worse Better The same Worse

0

20

40

60

80

100

A A' B B' C C' D D'

Better The same Worse

0

20

40

60

80

100

A A' B B' C C' D D'

Better The same Worse

0

20

40

60

80

100

A A' B B' C C' D D'

Better The same Worse

0

20

40

60

80

100

A A' B B' C C' D D'

Better The same Worse

154

The preparations were best evaluated for their uniformity. 100%

of respondents in the evaluation of this parameter considered them

to be better than the commercial product. They were evaluated very well

in terms of absorption, smoothing, spreading, and the effect of pillows.

All the scrubs made according to these parameters were assessed

by 80% 100% probands, as superior to the commercial product.

The greasing parameter was assessed best by the probands, mainly

in the case of preparations A ', B, B', C, C 'and D. The worst greasing properties

were exhibited by preparation B, which, according to 50% of the respondents,

was considered worse than the commercial product.

4. CONCLUSIONS

The objective of the work was the proper selection of the composition

of the recipes of the emulsion scrubs, for dry skin and assessment of their

physico-chemical and functional properties. Based on reports in the literature

and the market analysis a composition of emulsion base recipes

were developed to which various types of the abrasives in various

concentrations were subsequently introduced. The fine grained abrasives

were selected, having a particle size o

origin (apricot kernels, oil seeds, grape seeds) and one of semi-synthetic origin

(jojoba esters). The influence of the type and concentration of abrasive,

as well as forms of cosmetics on the physicochemical properties of the scrubs.

In order to do that, tests were performed: of stability, of dynamic viscosity,

of the degree of hydration and sensory tests were conducted.

Based on the survey, the following conclusions have been formulated:

The viscosity of the preparations depends on the content of the abrasive

used. It grows with the increasing concentration of the abrasive.

155

The scrubs containing 5% of the abrasive showed higher viscosity

in comparison to preparations with a concentration equal to 2%

of the abrasive. The highest viscosity was shown by the trade product

1 s. The high viscosity of the product was caused

by the presence of xanthan gumin in the composition, and the content

of the two different types of abrasive materials: polyethylene

and apricot kernels. The scrub, with the most congenial viscosity

to the commercial product was the preparation D'- s,

containing olive seeds in a concentration of 5% as an abrasive.

The viscosity of the preparations slightly depends also on the type

of the abrasive used. The highest viscosity characterized

the preparations containing the carcass of oil seeds, and the lowest

the scrubs with grapes seeds and jojoba esters.

The corneometer results indicate that the scrubs occurring in the form

of an emulsion affect the increase in hydration in relation to dry skin,

The sensory tests have shown that the scrubs made in the opinion

of the twenty respondents showed more favorable sensory properties,

than the commercial product. The scrubs are characterized by superior

compared to the commercial product properties of spreading,

absorption, cushion effect, and smoothing properties, which in the case

of this group plays a major role. The best preparations in terms

of sensory assessment were the preparations: C, C ', D and D'.

The results of the research are indicated for, the ability to use various

types of an abrasive in scrubs occurring in the form of an emulsion. The scrubs

recipe developed, can be a valuable source of information for manufacturers

of cosmetics. Also, due to the fact that the currently available range of scrub

emulsions intended for dry skin is small. The test results are indicative for more

research in the direction of the receipt of modern multifunctional cosmetics,

156

combining the ingredients of natural origin, which may extend the market offer

of scrubs.

5. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

This study was supported by the project of Kazimierz Pulaski University

of Technology and Humanities in Radom, No 3086/35/P.

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STRESZCZENIE

w formie emulsji.

1-

produktem

158

-20).

- peelingi z nasionami winogron i estrami jojoby.

jak produkt handlowy.