trendbook - alice woods, isabel nascimento, laura oliver
DESCRIPTION
A trend document ficused on the S/S15, looking into visual merchandising, menswear, creative direction and graphics trends.TRANSCRIPT
1
s p r i n g s u m m e r 2 0 1 5t r e n d f o r e cas t
ali
ce
wo
od
s
isabel nascimento
lau
ra
oliv
er
2
n o t t i n g h a m t r e n t u n i v e rs i t y fas h i o n c o m m u n i cat i o n a n d p r o m o t i o n
y e a r 2 fas h 2 0 0 3 2
2 0 1 4
SS2015
3
creative direction
morbid 404 error
AmeriCAN beAUTY
menswear
rATioxxxY
qUieT ANArChY
graphics & print
eNZYmedeCrYpThAlCYoN
visual merchandising
lYf qUiCkSANd live-ACTioN
contents
S P R I N G S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
4
CreATive direCTioN
S P R I N G S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
YoUNg blood 404-error AmeriCAN beAUTY
05 07 09
5
YoUNg blood
S S 1 5 C R E AT I V E D I R E C T I O N
6
YoUNg blood
S S 1 5 C R E AT I V E D I R E C T I O N
A growing trend for post-mortem, dying young and blood. A not-so-innocent youth and open society push one-time taboos into fashion narrative. Macabre images form a morbid documentation of unsettling and painful parts of life.
In Xavier Le Roy’s 1998 art production ‘Self Unfinished’ scientific and social data are transferred and imprinted in hallucinogenic morphological aberrations of the body. As the dancer performers the routine she turns robotic and disconnected. Alberto Polo uses religion, death and dying as a main narrative in his films and photography. His voyeuristic imagery of beauty in disturbing scenarios emanates a dark, eerie mood.
7
S S 1 5 C R E AT I V E D I R E C T I O N
404-error
8
S S 1 5 C R E AT I V E D I R E C T I O N
404-errorThe eruption of the digital into the physical acts as a catalyst for robotized styling and digital post-production. Fashion imagery focuses on the human body’s integration with technology, enabled by 3D bioprinting and a growing wearable tech market, depicting the imminent, improved, 2.0 version of ourselves. Moving away from a glitched VCR nostalgia, creatives airbrush a dystopian future.
Novembre and DIS Magazine pioneer a post-internet visual approach. Both online and offline, their disturbingly innovative narratives spearhead new fashions and names. Italian sculptor Gianluca Traina comments on a potential depersonalization through her distorted 360 portraits, caused by the ever blurring line between humanity and robotization.
9
american beauty
S S 1 5 C R E AT I V E D I R E C T I O N
1 0
AmeriCAN beAUTYA growing social attitude stemming from economic and political fragility and a sense of vulnerability are translated into creative direction through the use of sheer, synthetic materials, with the notion of exposure in mind. Minimalistic styling, stemming from poor economic situations, has evolved to using translucent materials; a nod to stripped away luxury.
A voyeuristic approach is used by Ukrainian photography collective Synchrodogs in their ‘Demophobia’ series, in which sheets of plastic are draped around naked bodies. London based men’s fashion brand Cottweiler use sheer polyester in tracksuits to convey economic hardships, whilst artist Do Ho Suh creates Architectural Installations and Polyester Sculptures, in which the structure of buildings are exposed.
S S 1 5 C R E AT I V E D I R E C T I O N
1 1
F U RT H E R R E A D I N G
Molting legwear from the Graduation Book of the Design Academy EindhovenVincent van Gurp, 2010
Prada Lookbook SS09Miuccia Prada and Rem Koolhaas, 2009
Kurt, Novembre MagazineAmanda Camenisch, 2013
Hector MagazineAnuschka Blommers and Niels Schumm, 2012
- Glenn Martens AW14 Arnaud Lajeunie, 2013
Portrait 360 Gianluca Traina, 2013
Animalism, NaturalismSynchodogs, 2013
Upcomings Michal Pudelka, 2013
OxigenAlberto Polo, 2013
Self UnfinishedXavier Le Roy, 1998
Large Self PortraitClemens Krauss, 2004-2009
BathwaterStephen Medeiros, 2012
One Minute ScultpuresErwin Wurm, 2012
Upcomings Michal Pudelka, 2013
A Woman’s Work Is Never DoneEliza Bennett, 2011
FlamboyaVivianne Sasson
Prada Campaign Norbert Schoerne 1998
HesterAsger Carlsen, 2013
AllMaurizio Cattelan, 2007
Primitive London, TANKBruna Kazinoti, 2013
- i n t e r a c t i v e -
1 2
Remember to recalibrate your screen before you die, DIS Magazine Dora Budor, 2014
F U RT H E R R E A D I N G
Smart FingertipsThe University of Illinois, 2012
C.E Spring Summer 2014 Ben Drury and Rollo Jackson for Showstudio, 2014
1984 Ed Ruscha, 1960
Project Tango Google ATAP, 2014
iPad People Katsuki Nogami, 2014
Digital Modern Lighting for the Future SS01 Junya Watanabe, 2000
Animalism, Naturalism Synchrodogs, 2013
Smart FingertipsThe University of Illinois, 2012
Ohne TitelMichael Budny, 2013
Make You Maker Lucy McRae, 2012
Artyom Shabalov Dorothée Murai, 2013
- -
The Africa Issue Under the Influence Magazine, 2012
Stylorectic2011
Perfect Home Instillation View Do Ho Suh, 2013
Stella Tenant for FW98Maison Martin Margiela by Mark Borthwick, 1998
Untitled Tatiana Leshkina, 2013
Future Shock, the FACE MagazineMarcus Tomlinson, 1994
Tatiana Leshkina & Erik Hart Tissue Magazine, 2013
1 3
menswear
S P R I N G S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
rATio xxxY qUieT ANArChY
14 16 18
1 4
S S 1 5 m e n sw e a r
r at i o
1 5
S S 1 5 M E N SW E A R
ratioContrast panels enliven formal and casual looks. Clashing patterns and colour blocking resemble a collage aesthetic, with a 2D, geometric cut-and-paste feel. The panels accentuate flat designs, providing sufficient unobtrusive detail. Within the rising “normcore” trend, the dismissal of prominence through clothing and the celebration of sameness.
Raf Simons mastered the technique with his crisp and graphic 2007 Spring/Summer collection. His use of bold colour-blocking became timeless, culminating in his 2014’s Autumn Winter designs. Simon’s influence is seen in Alexandra Poppy McGrady’s BA collection, in which contrasting paneling is paired with above mentioned normcore, late-90s styling.
1 6
xxxY
S S 1 5 m e n sw e a r
1 7
xxxYTraditional identities such as class, vocation and race are becoming increasingly fragmented as menswear embodies the emancipation of men. Unisex clothing is designed to suppress the conventions of masculine and feminine dress, privileging an androgynous body. Now, the transgression of gender has moved past the point of androgyny, transforming structures of oppression that exploit diversity within society.
For some men an egalitarian future has already arrived. Photographer Daniel Jackson captured performance artist Calder Kusmierski alongside the apparent taboo surrounding men in skirts in his 2012 i-D editorial. Chinese photographer and poet Ren Hang photographs his subjects naked, playing on real existence, banality and gender. The radical artist pushes the boundaries of the conditioned society we live in.
S S 1 5 m e n sw e a r
1 8
S S 1 5 m e n sw e a r
qUieTANArChY
1 9
S S 1 5 m e n sw e a r
quiet anarchyInternet surveillance and censorship, as well as growing fury over government secrets, raise suspicion and distrust throughout society, particularly throughout the tech-conscious youth. The strive for truth and democracy is decoded into men’s fashion direction through the use of intelligent, activist slogans and sporadically placed graphics. A quiet anarchy.
Leading street wear brands such as KTZ and Cyber Boy place political statements and arresting symbols in unsuspecting places, down sleeves and hems, on the lower back etc., eventuating into a strong declaration. Bullett Magazine’s ‘How High’ editorial focuses on this particular graphic placement trend, whilst carrying out a clear statement.
2 0
Ready to Wear Collection SS14 Alexander Wang, 2013
F U RT H E R R E A D I N G
Armory Brion Nuda Rosch, 2011
Folding Portait Mel Nguyen, 2011
BA collection Alexandra Poppy McGrady, 2013
AW07 Raf Simons, 2007
The Narrative Joe Earley, 2013
Screen Lovers Eli Craven
Virtual Horizon Mowgli Omari, 2013
I Want You David Raymond Conroy, 2009
Affordances #1 Jonathan Zawada, 2013
Il Panorama Fin Verso Oltremare Giovanni Anselmo, 1996
SS14, Basso and Brooke, 2013
AW12 Dries Van Noten, 2012
Untitled Brion Nuda Rosch, 2010
Untitled Eugene Lonesco
Johanna SticklandJohn Galliano, 2007
Arena Homme Plus S/S 2011Collier Schorr
Novembre Magazine DigitalJorge Perez Ortiz, 2014
Candy MagazineKarim Sadli, 2010
Untitled Wolfgang Tillmans
Untitled Ren Hang, 2012
2 1
F U RT H E R R E A D I N G
Carlijn JacobsFucking Young, 2014
Calder Kusmierski, i-DDaniel Jackson, 2012
The Burger Girl Benjamin Dukhan, 2013
Boy George1980
Fabric ScansNicomede Talavera, 2013
Madonna Mykki Blanco, 2013
Vaslav Nijinsky
Wikileaks T-Shirt 2012
Nathan Cowen, Space ShirtUrban Outfitters
Anti-Mass Surveillance Protest21st Century SlogansDouglas Coupland and Michael Stipe, 2012
Beauty Is a Short Lived Tranny Eric Yahnker, 2011
How High, Fucking YoungAdriano B, 2014
Bean Pole PrintChristophe Lemaire Novo, 2013
Spring SummerXander Zhou, 2014
Memphis Sanitation Workers Strike 1968
Malcolm McLarenJoe Steven, 1976
VSVP VISON 2013
Berlin East Side Gallery 2014 [own photography]
Islamic YouthTara Vat Talepasand, 2009
Adam AbrahamRaf Simons, 2014
2 2
grAphiCS & priNT
S P R I N G S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
eNZYme deCrYpT hAlCYoN
23 25 27
2 3
S S 1 5 g r a p h i c & P R I N T
enzyme
24
S S 1 5 g r a p h i c & P R I N T
enzymeA testament to the field of science, in which new research has shed light on DNA, the human form and bacteria cells. We now know, in more detail, about the make up of cells, and have achieved greater understanding of not just ourselves, but also our surroundings and the world we live in. Graphic design direction takes note of this, and uses shapes reminiscent of microbes and magnified bacteria cells in repetitive patterns and often bold colours, to create a sense of celebration of biological research.
This graphic design direction takes reference from the 1980s, particularly the Memphis Group or Milano Movement, in which similar colours and patterns are used to create flamboyant pieces of work, whilst still holding true to their post-modernistic ideals. Italian architect and designer Ettore Sottsass, pushed this style within his work in the Memphis Group, whilst illustrator Tim Colmant incorporates ideas of science and DNA make-up in his prints and designs.
2 5
decrypt
S S 1 5 g r a p h i c & P R I N T
2 6
S S 1 5 g r a p h i c & P R I N T
The urban environment and encoded messages inspire graphic and print direction. High tech applications such as surveillance systems and mapping influence this trend resulting in photocopied textures, linear structures and numerical codes. Scrambled type and a lo-fi fashion injection create gritty design and attitude.
Landscape architect James Corner is a forerunner of the urbanism movement. His 1996 book ‘Taking Measures Across the American Landscape’ features map illustrations that form a background to this trend. Decrypt graphics are also evident in modern digital landscape. Phonebloks created by Dave Hakkon is an in-development project that will allow users to build their own modular phone through a series of components and codes.
decrypt
2 7
halcyon
S S 1 5 g r a p h i c & P R I N T
2 8
S S 1 5 g r a p h i c & P R I N T
Reduced shapes make the ultimate graphic statement. Our overwhelmingly complex reality provokes a reduction back to the fundamental. Flawless, stark designs emerge as loud silence within a noisy visual landscape. White on white, black on black, minimal precision invades graphic design and challenges the viewer to stop and stare.
This trends fed from Kasimir Malevich’s Suprematism movement, which brought abstract art to the most radical geometric simplicity ever seen and established the supremacy of the form. The artist’s Black Square originated a new pictorial language, leading artists such as Joseph Albers and Cal Dean to explore the zero of form.
halcyon
2 9
F U RT H E R R E A D I N G
Pentabase Bookrest BacterioTable of Contents, 2014
Memphis Pattern n.d.
Carlton Bookcase Ettore Sottsass, Memphis Group, 1981
Brown Paper Bag Tim Colman, n.d.
‘Super’ Rolling Floor Lamp Martine Bedin, 1981
NMaria Albornoz, 2013
Nathalie du Pasquier x American Apparel, 2013
UntitledAgnes Martin
Taking Measures Across the American Landscape James Corner, 1995
Swiss Typographic Monthly Magazine CoverHeinrich Fleischhacker, 1975
Black Tattoo SleeveZak Henry, 2011
NSA Proof FontVICE, 2013
Truth and DistortionAndre Kerstesz, 1937
Pocket Sketchbook Juan Casini, 2009
Memphis Milano x Harlem Shake StylePablo Abad, 2013
Graphic Collection n.d.
Studio ToogoodThe Hatch, 2009
Julien Rademaker’s ApartmentFreundevonfreunden, 2014
UntitledViktor Hachmang, n.d.
Filigreesn.d.
Studio ToogoodThe Hatch, 2009
3 0
F U RT H E R R E A D I N G
Untitled Francis Baudevin, , 2012
Open Unfolded Space Ron Gilad, n.d.
Plus and Minus Peter Saville, 2002
Fence Parker Bright, 2013
Fanzine du Club des Chevreuils, Le Club des Chevreuils, 2005
Petrol, SS14 Lookbook Josh Reim, 2014
Hommage to Square Joseph Albers, 1957
How High, Bullet Magazine Andy Long Hoang, 2014
Shape 171 Cal Dean, n.d
Serpentine Gallery Pavillion Sou Fujimoto, 2013
Everyone Ever in the World The Luxury of Protest, 2012
A Dress from the Staircase Series Issey Miyake, 1987
Black Square Kasimir Malevich, 1913
Incomplete Open Cube No.5-6 Sol LeWitt, 1974
Ficciones TypografikaMarton Kabai, 2013
Say Hello to NeverMarc Magtzaam, 1998
PhonebloksDave Hakkens, 2013
MachinesAndy Callahan, n.d
Acid Poster. Forbidden.Rasmus Ostgard Ohlson, n.d
Signature TypeNacor Martina, 2013
Autechre: Incunabula The Design Republic, 1993
3 1
visual merchandising
S P R I N G S U M M E R 2 0 1 5
lYf qUiCkSANd live ACTioN
32 34 36
3 2
S S 1 5 V I S U A L M E R C H A N D I S I N Glyf
3 3
S S 1 5 V I S U A L M E R C H A N D I S I N G
lYfThe growing need to find pockets of paradise and pauses in daily life. Driven by socio-political topics such as the recession, a need to change the regular into utopia. Artists and designers elevate ordinary objects and routines, transforming the mundane into creative artwork and spaces. Our perception of escapism is revaluated as we seek comfort in the familiarity of the everyday.
Set designer Gemma Tickle’s fascination for everyday objects and materials, allows for playful concepts by altering the scale and environment. Marleen Sleeuwits and Nick Albertson look at banal, mass produced items and reimagine their common qualities.
3 4
qUiCkSANd
S S 1 5 V I S U A L M E R C H A N D I S I N G
3 5
S S 1 5 V I S U A L M E R C H A N D I S I N G
quicksandA contrast between two extremes; the rough and the soft. Coarse textures from sand, stone and distressed foil textures create a certain sense of intrigue, derived from our instinct to touch and experience new textures. The jagged surfaces reflect upon the rough exterior of society, a stark contrast to the luxe fabrics often associated with times prosperity. A graduation from Scandi-chic and natural materials used currently within fixtures and visual merchandising, these textures are painted in soft pastels, in an attempt to conceal the ragged texture, a painted exterior to mask the true identity.
Used in visual merchandising, coarse textures act as an invitation to consumers to experience and engage with the retail space.
3 6
S S 1 5 V I S U A L M E R C H A N D I S I N G
live action
3 7
S S 1 5 V I S U A L M E R C H A N D I S I N G
live actionThe predicted demise of bricks and mortar is countered by live action. While e-commerce is expanding, physical stores hasten their game by promoting physical interaction with the consumer, expanding the normal shopping experience through on-the-spot services such as grooming, tattooing and live music. Live action flees from augmented, online realities to engage the viewer in unique, real ones. Brands’ ethos come to life through its consumers’ participation.
Fashion designer Gareth Pugh is set to create an installation space in Selfridges, London, in which customers are immersed in a virtual reality, enhancing their shopping experience as well as projecting Pugh’s vision in a more conceptual form. Uniqlo worked with creative agency BD Network to create their “Feel the Warmth” campaign, to support Centrepoint Sleepoint in which consumers can nominate, in store, whomever to receive a free piece of their HEATTECH clothing. This creates a sense of involvement and community, making the consumer be part of the action.
3 8
F U RT H E R R E A D I N G
NRC DELUXE ZEN GARDENScheltens & Abbenes, 2013
French PostcardBrea Souders, 2011
Rubbish JewelleryHollie Paxton, 2013
Paper ClipsNick Albertson, 2012
Interior no. 26 Marleen Sleeuwits, 2011
Fluorscent Meets PastelFloor Knaapen, 2013
Dropping BottleIran Do Espirito Santo, 2013
POP Balloon Sculptures Gemma Tickle, 2013
Still Lifes Lucas Lefler, n.d
Harm LessSonia Rentsch, 2013
Life -no.19Tatsuo Miyajima 2013
360 PortraitGianluca TrainaI, 2013
Gold BurgerThomas Hannich, 2013
Objects and IllustrationJavier Pérez 2013
Ceramic Paint,Kirstie Van Noort, 2011
Foamglass Roos Gomperts, 2013
Foamglass Roos Gomperts, 2013
Concrete GenesisIvanka Studios, 2012
Vectory Studio Ahha, 2011
Foamglass Roos Gomperts, 2013
Foamglass Roos Gomperts, 2013
3 9
House of DustAntonio Cardilllo, 2013
F U RT H E R R E A D I N G
Scented Cinema Gorilla Perfumes by Lush, 2013 [own photography]
Gareth Pugh’s virtual reality journey Selfridges, 2014
Bread and Butter Berlin, 2014 [own photography]
Brit Rhythm Launch with White Lies Burberry, 2013
Brit Rhythm Launch with White Lies Burberry, 2013
No Noise Window Installation Katie Paterson, Selfridges, 2013
Measuring the Universe Roman Ondak, 2009
Tattoo shop at Abandon Bright Tradeshow, Berlin, 2014 [own photography]
Beady Eye Live Rough Trade East, 2013
Bread and Butter Berlin, 2014 [own photography]
Festival of Imagination Window Selfridges, 2014
Heattech Clothing Launch Uniqlo, 2012
White Trash Fast Food Berlin, 2014 [own photography]
The Artist is Present Marina Abramovic, 2012
Salon 49Kueng Caputo, 2013
Critical Objects, Object III HelloMe, 2014
GRAPEVINE~Roan Nagle for David Kordansky, 2013
Untitled Bonnie Mably, n.d.
Arranged Still Life Andreu Serra, n.d.
Sometimes, Always Maxime Guyon, 2013
4 0
It is the past, present and future which enables us to make informed predictions. Looking to patterns and shifts in social attitudes on a wider scale allows us to think of the bigger picture, placing trends into context and make connections between different verticals. I-C is a visual-based trend forecasting service, using a selection of well
thought out images to convey our message clearly and concisely.
s p r i n g s u m m e r 2 0 1 5t r e n d f o r e cas t
ali
ce
wo
od
s
isabel nascimento
lau
ra
oliv
er
3 d m o c k - u p
41
ali
ce
wo
od
s
isabel nascimento
lau
ra
oliv
er