Marie creates perfumery with pleasure, music and enthusiasm. After her studies and training in Grasse, Marie Duchêne founded her own company 10 years ago, MD Fragrances, located in Mougins, France. She develops, formulates and monitors everything (legislation), selecting the best quality of ingredients. Marie works for cosmetics (100% natural), fine fragrances projects and home care (particularly candles). She recently signed for Laboratorio Olfattivo (Rosumda), Molinard (Patchouli Intense, Chypre, Cologne Intense), Nobile 1942 and Melody Gardot’s candle with Calming Park.

wfn # 41 nov 12 Perfumers & Co

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Fragrant People

■ Marie Duchêne (MD Fragrances)

■ Osmoz, share your fragrances – the new fragrance social media by Firmenich

■ Marie Salamagne (Firmenich)

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes

Marie Duchêne

Marie Salamagne Photo Credit

Blaise Lavigne

■ Dorothée Piot (Robertet Paris)

Firmenich’s website Osmoz, created in 2001, became a reference and a source of deep info for pros and passionate people, in the major fields of fragrances (products, culture, market trends).

Julie Deleaval, expert in the web industry, is Manager Osmoz. She managed the project from A to Z considering the process as a rebirth of Osmoz. The project was indeed strategic: she and the team had to take all the digital requirements in account: mobile, tablet, 4 languages, available in 6 countries with new topics and an ‘Osmoz box’ (gifts, samples, miniatures)...

Julie Deleaval

Life is made of encounters.... ... As with Roger & Gallet, L’Occitane en Provence, Salvador Dali, or Amouage, for whom Dorothée has signed many fragrances during her career. Hot news this fall: she composed Jovoy’s Les Jeux sont faits (opulent leathery tobacco-patchouli, masculine scent) in the ambience of card tables, casinos, smoke and french ‘serie noire’ movies...Dorothée also composed the first ‘J’ai fait un rêve’ pour elle (Sculptures Olfactives, a new brand founded by Majda Bekkali). She has also signed recently Olfactive Studio’s Chambre Noire and very new Jul&Mad’s trio collection (shown)... Artistic perfumery in a fever of excitement!

I like working on raw material that has a history like patchouli, to dress it and enhance it. After her studies at ISIPCA, Marie started at Charabot where she studied formulation. She then joined Firmenich NYC for bodycare and then, since 2005, worked for the fine fragrances team in Paris. More attracted by masculine notes such as amber and woods, she created feminine Yves Rocher’s So Elixir Purple, Roger & Gallet’s Rose Imaginaire Maison Martin Margiela’s Replica, Giorgio Armani’s Privé La Femme Nacre, before Guerlain’s Aquas, Westwood’s Let it Rock, Poiray’s Sceau des Cœurs... Kenzo, Oriflame... A very promising perfumer to follow up.

Dorothée Piot

Eleven years later, the website needed to be modernized and adapted to new digital consumption trends and expectations. The goal of revamping was to target 18-35 year old consumers, get involved in the fragrance community and to understand their advice and opinion about perfumes. Osmoz’s database now contains over 5,000 products. A golden platform of data to enlarge !

It took 7 months creating a fresh tool, a real social media, broken away from the past, allowing consumers to explore, share and discuss. The editorial team has also evolved with various contributors (such as the talented Sophie Normand’s My Blue Hour blog) to appeal and re-enchant the world of perfume. A good new deal ! Congrats! For more info: www.osmoz.com

■ Annick Goutal (Amore Pacific)

wfn # 41 nov 12

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Sagas & Creativity

Fragrant Brands

■ Pro Fvmvm Roma > 25 years of creation in family

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes

‘’On ne doit jamais oublier que la finalité du parfum est le bonheur.’’ Annick Goutal

Established in 1980 by Annick Goutal, this elegant French brand is owned now by South Korean group, Amore Pacific (with Lolita Lempicka), retailed in 20 countries. Fragrances are still created in-house by Camille Goutal and her accomplice, Isabelle Doyen, former assistant to Annick, who has trained Camille. A fragrant tribute...The perfumer duo together works from their own laboratory on all their blends.They share their ideas (concept, materials) with the marketing without imposing theirs. Goutal’s olfactory universe could be described as poetic, innocent, romantic, feminine... It is above all harmony, soul, character, memories, highly focused on quality and originality (materials).

The wide collection of perfumes, candles, home sprays and cosmetics includes Folavril (the first one created), citrus chypre Eau du Sud, Eau d’Hadrien, fruity pear with famous Petite Chérie, floral with Grand Amour, Ce Soir ou Jamais, Tubéreuse, Heure Exquise, Eau de Camille, Néroli, Violette ...chypre with Mon Parfum Chéri, Mandragore Pourpre or Sables... The latest launch was Nuit Etoilée, an aromatic woody fresh fragrance. All fragrances’s bottles are recognizable (round or squared) with their tiny details (label, ribbon and butterfly imaging). The brand is available in boutiques, department stores and e-shop. For more info: www.annickgoutal.com

Petite Chérie 2012

limited edition

Camille Goutal & Isabelle Doyen

I fratelli Durante di Sant’Elena Sannita, Italia. Italian brand Pro Fvmvm came to France in 2011. Brothers Giuseppe, Luciano, Maria and Felice Durante founded the brand, 25 years ago, with the philosophy of freedom, conviction and no compromise. What characterizes most the brand? Luxury, simplicity, quality and high concentration (43%), emotions, large bottle, originality... An invitation to travel.

Among the best-sellers, the majestuous Battito D’Ali, Fiori d’Ambra, Neroli, Acqva di Sale, Vanitas, Confetto, Oxiana, Thvndra and so many others which are available in candles and bath line.

Dolce Acqva (milky, almond, vanilla, fruity) and Eccelso (leather) are the two up and coming fragrances this month. The brand is available in Paris at La Belle Parfumerie (Printemps Haussmann) and other stores, in Europe, USA (Osswald NY store), ... and Italy. For more info: profumum.com

The Durante Family and the collection

■ Thierry Faucon > Design Thierry Faucon has been Director and Designer at Lorience (LuluCastagnette, Mauboussin and Courrèges) since 2005. After his studies of architecture at Les Beaux Arts in Orléans and Ecole des Arts Modernes in Paris, he made a decisive encounter and joined one of the most famous Design workshop for perfumes at that time, where he worked for 15 years and improved his talent and knowledge in the field. Thierry ran his own agency for 10 years and then joined Lorience with Robin Schlang. Since then, he has created many fragrances bottles and the recent French jewellery brand Mauboussin Pour Elle and Mauboussin Pour Lui. For more info: www.lorience.com

■ Marc-Antoine Corticchiato (Parfum d’Empire)

Marc Antoine Corticchiato

Expert in raw materials and chemicals... PHD and perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato (Corsican born in Morocco) knows every single heart of a perfumery ingredient. He signed 2 new additions this year : one for his own brand, Musc Tonkin (Limited Edition, extract version) Parfum d’Empire, designed as a musky animalic fragrance created around tonkin musk and rich materials. It smells sex(y), woman and fur. The second is for D.Frapin & Co, Speakeasy. A tribute to smoky bars, mojito, leather, evoking the US prohibition of the 30’s. Rich. Opulent. Forbidden... For more info:parfumdempire.com and www.differenteslatitudes.com

■ Société Française des Parfumeurs > 70 years !

The session is focused on an in depth presentation to look at which are the best fragrances purchased in each key region of the world (US, Europe, Asia Pacific, South America). The master class starts with an overview about the region and its main countries, consumption, habits and uses, olfactory culture ... Data sources are also given by Ubi France. The overall session is punctuated by fun smelling tests where attendees try to recognize the main products of the market, the raw materials,... In blind. The workshop is as relaxed as it is informative.

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wfn # 41 nov 12 SFP, Cinquieme Sens & Marionnaud

Fragrant Events

■ Cinquième Sens > New program

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes

This session, conceived as a tool, allows marketers to know and understand why major brands are present, why they are so strong (image/business) and see also how local brands emerge in this industry where majors compete together. At the end, it provides the belief that fragrance markets are still driven by money, brand image and money-power of majors (media invests, celebrities, retail, historical presence, fashion and trends... ). It shows as well that some countries (and especially the BRICs) don’t always follow mega trends (classics vs novelties) and can impose their own local preferences and differentiate from the global olfactory correct market. Cinquième Sens is now present in USA and Brazil.

The interest for marketers is to better understand market evolution and know how to adapt their brand offer. Training session about male fragrances will follow soon... For more info: www.cinquiemesens.com

J’Adore, Euphoria, Lady Million, O Hui, Coco Mademoiselle, Pleasures ... You know all those best-sellers but are you able to rank them in the world, by country? Not easy...! French company Cinquième Sens (created in 1976 by Monique Schlienger, managed by Isabelle Ferrand in Paris) has run a new program this fall: a global feminine fragrance market overview, based on top sellers 2011 sourced by NPD & Euromonitor data.

The olfactorium©

Argentina Top Sellers 2011 Rose des Vents©

This compass rose gives the olfactory family of the market at a glance. The

floral green fruity family dominates the feminine market.

September, the 27th. For its 70th anniversary, the SFP organized a party in the sumptuous Parisian Hôtel Potocki attended by more than 400 people of the industry (perfumers, press, marketers...). The gala, punctuated by 3 major events, was a tribute to perfumery and its art: - the introduction of the ‘Rose des Parfumeurs’ to promote the rose and knowledge of the roses among people who love the flower; - the creation of the ‘International circle of perfumers-creators’ to promote the art of fragrances, based on the original idea of senior perfumers Maurice Maurin and Raymond Chaillan; - the celebration of the ‘International perfumer-creator award 2012’.This year, the theme of the show was ‘’Le Parfum, c’est la fête!’’. Perfumer Dominique Ropion, president of the artistic jury awarded Virginie Armand, perfumer at Argeville.

Virginie Armand perfumer at Argeville, won the Prize with a floral fruity musky composition based on a

rum cocktail.

The SFP has marked a vitalizing step in modernizing and communicating thanks to Patrick Saint-Yves’s presidency. And to symbolize the revamping of the old institution, a new logo has been adopted and a fresh website will be available this month. For more info: www.parfumeur-createur.com

■ Bernard Marionnaud’s book > Un homme au parfum His parents were fairground people, WW II stopped his schooling,... Bernard Marionnaud hadn’t the best skills to start in the little world of luxury. Marionnaud’s biography is a true novel made up of joy, dreams, politics and history in De Gaulle’s France. A self-made man, who began small in beauty, his name is today renowned worldwide attached to one of the most important international group of perfumeries.The book, written with Sylvie Nordheim, will be available on the 22th of November (Cherche-Midi). Press contact : Valérie Roy, vroy@cherche-midi.com.

wfn # 41 nov 12 Fragrant Launches

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Voices, Men & Luxury

■ K by Patricia Kaas > On stage!

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes

News from TFWA in Cannes ! K is first French singer and actress Patricia Kaas’s fragrance. A project run by Fragrance & Emotion for the last 2 years, with the perfumer Mélanie Leroux, Mademoiselle Parfumette and designer Silvia Hofbeck who created the bottle. Patricia Kaas, known for her talent, her powerful glamour voice combined to her fragile silhouette signed a perfume of character. Only a fruity floral chypre with best ingredients could suit her sensuous yet strong personality. The fragrance is composed of fruity notes, ylang-ylang, jasmine, lily and orange blossom sustained by agarwood and woody notes. For chypre addicted people. Available in exclusivity on www.fragranceetemotion.com by 1st of December and then, soon, worldwide and France in the selective channel. Kaas’s scent tour will really start in 2013 as well as her Piaf’s one !

■ Stéphane Lacroix, founder of S.Lacroix licensing > Development of licences

Luxury & Brand Licensing How to enhance the image and increase the financial returns of

a luxury brand

After his studies at HEC, Stéphane joined Unilever to successfully re-launch Snuggle in Europe. Attracted by new challenges, then he moved to L’Oréal consumer division, where he set up 2 sales subsidiaries in Kuala-Lumpur and Singapore and launched mass-market products as well as technical products targeted at professional hairdressers. At fashion magazine Elle, he managed 250 contracts in the world (ready-to-wear, shoes and bags, watches). After a few years at Le Jacquard Français and Lancel, in the international business, he founded his own agency S.LACROIX licensing and now brings his practical expertise to help companies in the Luxury, Fashion and Beauty sectors. His news : a book, co-written with Emilie Bénéteau, launched in Sept 2012 (Eyrolles edition / Collection Marketing): “Luxe et Licences de marque”. For more info and contact: www.slacroix-licensing.com

■ Fragrant Web > Blog for Men The new men are in the city ! A trendy blog, created by a modern man, only for men. Skincare, fragrances, grooming products are a matter of seduction, efficiency but also humor, health, well-being and advices. Cédric Chamoulaud, beauty PR specialist (at the BMRP agency, he works for P&G, Wella, Christophe Biot, Bio Secure accounts) is the author of www.thenewmeninthecity.com and gives all beauty tips a man needs.

■ Pink Friday by Nicki Minaj (Elizabeth Arden) > Sassy! After Justin Bieber and its successful Someday (ranking N°7 in the USA), the Barbz’fragrance ! American rapper Nicki Minaj, known for her pink hair and eccentric style, debuts fragrance with Elizabeth Arden (True Religion, Ed Hardy, BCBGMAXAZRIA, Britney Spears, Elizabeth Taylor, Juicy Couture, Usher, John Varvatos,

Curve...). Pink Friday is composed by Firmenich as a fruity floral musky scent. Candy, sweet, girly, in a barbz bottle in a shape of a woman (the singer herself) developed by glass maker Pochet ... all ingredients of a celeb’fragrance. The fragrance will be available in department stores.

■ Boss ORANGE Man by Hugo Boss (P&G) > Cool

Spontaneous and casual like the fashion franchise. After BOSS ORANGE Woman, here is the new BOSS ORANGE Man. Young international actor Orlando Bloom embodies the new brand fragrance. A fresh fruity apple, woody but sensuous fragrance with vanilla and bubinga wood to reflect the free style of Boss’s urban fashion. The bottle, designed by Eyan Allen, is the masculine version of the female’s one: same structure of glass crystal, like a muscular chest. For more info:hugoboss.com

■ Delarom > First fragrances Christine Benet, passionate about aromatherapy, founded Delarom in 2008. All products are made from natural and pure vegetal oils. This dynamic French natural skincare and bodycare brand based on aromachology and aromas’ benefits has launched its first fragrances created by Mane : Homme Eau Sport signed by Violaine Collas and Fleur du Sud (a floriental with white flowers and woods) composed by Cécile Ripert. Available in November, in pharmacies and e-shop. For more info: www.delarom.fr