wfn # 38march 12 Perfumers & co

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■ Jérôme Goldberg (JMG-Research)

Fragrant People

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes

■ Shyamala Maisondieu (Givaudan)

■ Dora Baghriche - Arnaud (Firmenich)

Jérôme Goldberg is an expert in studies. After having worked at Beauty & Business beside founder Jean-Marc Alfandari, Jérôme founded JMG-Research in 2009, a consulting & market research company, to keep working on innovative initiatives, mostly in Perfume & Cosmetics. His studies are :

With her exotic name from Malaysia, Shyamala Maisondieu has made her first name more famous now in the little world of perfumers. As an engineer in chemistry, she begun in the fragrance industry in Hong Kong. Then her training began in France at the Givaudan's school of perfumery. After Kao where she worked, she joined Givaudan and composed for niche brands (Etat Libre d’Orange, Comme des Garçons, Tom Ford) but also Paul Smith, ST Dupont. She recently composed N°2 Trompe L’Oeil of Six Cents Serie Three with Greek emerging talent designer Mary Katrantzou. Shyamala is behind the signature of new Lanvin’s avant-garde for men that she created with spices (she likes ginger, resins and amber) and woods, on an oriental structure.

Dora Baghriche - Arnaud belongs to this young generation of perfumers who already signed for major brands, since she joined the famous fine fragrance team of perfumers. Vanitas Versace, Black Up, Ferragamo... are among her latest signatures. Her news is about a recent contribution to a public exhibition, which was targeted to kids at the parisian ‘Centre Pompidou’ where designer Matali Crasset imagined an exhibition about the new world (Blobterre). Between fiction and reality, natural and artificial, kids were invited to experience mother nature. The fragrance Dora has to imagine, called Extrasmell, was composed around 5 blends : earth, green, animal, rustic and sap water. Faraway enough from her oriental influences (orange blossom and lemon trees)... but interesting and ‘out-of-the-box’.

■ Stéphanie de Bruıjn (Parfum sur mesure)

Pianist, Stéphanie de Bruijn is also a perfumer. Trained in Grasse, where she learnt her sol fa of raw materials, she established her own bespoke fragrance house in 2008. PARFUM SUR MESURE is located in Paris where Stéphanie signs personal fragrances for her clientele. Her boutique is a laboratory-like, designed in grey and reds, in a British stylish liberty. She proposes two kinds of perfumes : collections or Parfums sur Mesure (Parfum Couture, Essence Haute Couture). You can also find her standalone in ‘’La Belle Parfumerie’’ of Printemps Haussmann where she will host you sometimes personally. For more info : www.parfumsurmesure.com

Outlooks on the worldwide Beauty market, with "World of Beauty" and "Key Prestige Players" annual set of reports ; International Competitive Intelligence, focusing on Beauty, but also comparing with other industries ; Travel Retail brands performance panel, as long-time partner of Swedish company ‘Generation Research' ; New analysis of consumer behavior in Travel Retail, identifying key factors of buying and not-buying. For more info : www.JMG-Research.com - contact@JMG-Research.com

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■ Anne Flipo (IFF) Anne is born far from Grasse, in Picardie, where she grew up surrounded by gardens and flowers...where her passion with fragrances started. After ISIP (Versailles), she worked at De Laire, Florasynth, Créations Aromatiques, Quest and Charabot. She has been with IFF since 2004. Anne is author of many refined and elegant perfumes for L’Artisan Parfumeur (Mimosa, La Chasse aux Papillons), Tendre Kiss by Lalique, Chiffon Sorbet by Escada, YSL (L’Homme, La Nuit de L’Homme), Acqua di Gioia by Armani and recent successful Lady Million by Paco Rabanne, Trésor Midnight Rose by Lancôme...

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Nathalie Pichard

wfn # 38march 12 Sagas

Fragrant Brands

■ Boss Fragrances When Hugo Boss came into the fragrance market, it was with Boss No1, an excellent fragrance for modern, successful and refined men. A patchouli fougere aromatic scent, sign of the 80s. Thirty years later, HB is a success story and often No1 in charts. Next month, the brand will launch its third fragrance, Boss Bottled.Sport., an aromatic fresh scent embodied by Formula 1 champion, Jenson Button. You may be lost in HB fragrances among all Hugo, Boss or Boss Orange. Be reassured, it’s very easy to understand the essence of HB. The fragrances are all linked to fashion ! Hugo for a young target (fresh aquatic), Boss for the working urban men lead by a competitive spirit, challenging themselves (all aromatic and woody, often twisted). Boss Orange with more fresh citrus, fruity notes for a young urban-casual lifestyle. Easy. Powerful. Efficient. For more info : www.boss-fragrances.co.uk

■ Bourjois, a Parisian-Style Beauty

‘Java Rice Powder’, ‘Little Round Pot of Blush’ in 1912 (shown) and fragrances ‘Mon Parfum’ (1924), ‘Soir de Paris’ (1928), soaps, blushers etc. Make-up, explosion of colours, textures and fun. Bourjois is this unique Parisian style beauty created in 1863 by J.A Ponsin, a brilliant visionary actor who first created for parisian actresses of theatres. Then the brand was expanded by Alexandre Napoléon Bourjois. Since 1868, Bourjois has been offering women a range of playful, accessible and innovative make-up products sold in mass market or department stores.

Nowadays, Bourjois is still perpetuating this spirit thanks to in house-artist designer Olivier Johnsson who gives, with passion and joy, a

strong identity of femininity, through a profusion of shades and over 100 new trendy creations each year. Bourjois expresses the freedom, style and feminity of today parisian young women who want a seductive look. For more info : www.bourjois.com

International success for Soir de Paris (Evening In Paris) created by Ernest Beaux in 1928 (floral ambery and spicy)

1912 Emblematic pot of blush

Cendre de Roses

■ Comptoir Sud Pacifique

Let’s breath again ! Exclusive brand Comptoir Sud Pacifique has been inhaling a deep new fresh air at the helm for two years. The brand, which has been already purchased once, showed signs of weakness and lost its identity. Fortunately, CSP has been given a new

birth by being acquired by Valérie Pianelli-Guichard who decided to clean it up,

revamp and make it grow. Founded in the 70s by Marie-Josée & Pierre Fournier, lovers of exotic countries and travels, CSP was created on a simple idea : creating scents that really smell ocean, tiare, vanilla, exotics, freedom and faraway islands. Fragrances with high quality ingredients that could be combined to create a unique signature and worn in all seasons. Famous Aqua Motu, Vanille Abricot, Vanille Ambre, Musc Alizé, Bois Filao are some of the leaders, to be completed soon by a new range called ‘Collection Anthologie’ (a collector edition) to be launched in april 2012 and a new fragrance in the ‘Autour du Monde’s line to come later. Available in traditional perfumeries and department stores. For more info : www.comptoir-sud-pacifique.com

Collection Anthologie Eau du Gouverneur Eau des Tropiques

Eau de Biarritz

Boss Bottled. Sport.

■ Jardins d’Ecrivains After a first original set of scented candles about the gardens of famous writers (G.Sand, V.Hugo or K.Blixen...), the creator Anaïs Biguine plunges us into a feminine bath with the collection ‘Le Bain de Wharton’, a trio of refined scented and coloured bath salts.The Art of luxury beauty. The brand is retailed in Jovoy and by Differentes Latitudes. For more info : www.jardinsdecrivains.com Le Bain de Wharton

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes

wfn # 38march 12

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■ Fabrice Legros, Studio Pi

Fragrant Objects

Studio Pi is a well-known French agency mainly dedicated to design and development of luxury products founded by Fabrice Legros in 1995. Fabrice works with his two partners on many projects. Designing perfume bottles is above all about pleasure, intuition, taste, sensibility and the vision that Fabrice’s team has for a brand. Fabrice has been trained by the prestigious Ecole Nationale des Arts Décoratifs and studied in the US. Studio Pi accompanies brands in bottle design projects (bottle, logo, case), technical, development assistance, and cosmetics. Studio Pi created Bulgari’s Aqua and Omnia, Vivienne Westwood’s Boudoir, JP Gaultier’s Le Male and Classique’s skincare and bath line, Chopard’s Wish, Oriflame’s bottles... Repackaging great classics is also a part of his job (Fahrenheit, Shalimar...). Without changing brand DNA, Fabrice renews the bottle and revamps by hints of modernity. For more info : www.studiopidesign.com For PR: sylvie.borin@syboconcept.fr

■ Alnoor Design – Objets de Convoitises

When he was a little boy, Alnoor (‘the light’ in Indian) loved cars and wanted to design them... So he begun his career as a designer after his degree at the Ecole Supérieure du Design Industriel (ESDI). Unexpected encounters with shoe designer Christian Louboutin and Maison Hermès for whom Alnoor created shoes and jewels, convinced him to keep on creating. That’s why he founded his agency in 2003 for the luxury sector (perfumes, jewelry and lifestyle). In parallel, he has always given himself freedom and time in the creation of limited editions or art-design objects (see his famous Magikal Miroir, a mirror which detects your presence and produces the delighted ‘you are beautiful’ message). Listing all his creations would be too long but Alnoor works with P&G, Coty (latest awarded Davidoff’s Champion), Guerlain, BPI and many other major fragrances brands on design, volume, Pos materials, or repackaged bottles. With his natural, passionate and gentleman’s personality. For more info : www.alnoordesign.com

Magikal Miroir and Alnoor

Art & Design

Thibault Ponroy, David Nitlich and Elie Papiernik (in the middle)

■ Centdegrés Who is behind the brand packaging Herborist or the new counter of Hermès Parfumeur at "La Belle Parfumerie" of Printemps Haussmann? Centdegrés. The design agency was born in 1988 from an encounter between two strong, complementary personalities with a common vision of the creative process, David Nitlich and Elie Papiernik. They pooled their talents in an innovative, unconventional approach that is by nature daring, demanding, open-minded and eclectic. The story of their collaboration begins in Hong Kong in 1986 and went on in Shangaï, Sao Paulo and Casablanca. They worked for many big brands creating brand vision and style platform, viusal identity, product design (Eaudemoiselle by Givenchy, Avant Garde by Lanvin, Baiser Volé by Cartier…) packaging, commercial architecture, category management and merchandising. Thibault Ponroy joined the team in Sept 2009 with his experience and perspective as head of several luxury brands, together with his knowledge of distribution and retailing, bringing a new dimension in building and transforming brands. For more info : www.centdegres.com

New address in Paris, rue Martel, based in an revamped manufactury

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes

■ Upcoming Fragrances

I Loewe Me by Loewe Armani Code Luna by Giorgio Armani

Jeanne Lanvin Couture by Lanvin Lolita Lempicka L’Eau en Blanc by Lolita Lempicka

Asian Tales by Kilian Les Cascades de Rochas Eclat d’Agrumes by Rochas

Dot by Marc Jacobs (shown)

wfn # 38march 12 Fragrant Launches

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■ Nuit Etoilée by Annick Goutal (Amore Pacific)

After the superb and dark fruity chypre ‘Mon Parfum Chéri’, the brand Annick Goutal will launch a new starry fragrance, ‘Nuit Étoilée’ next may. Inspired by a walk in a Canadian forest by night or in an

enchanting forest...the scent is very fresh on a woody aromatic structure. Isabelle Doyen and

Camille Goutal creators in house composed a fresh, pepperminty, spicy and woody aromatic with

notes of sweet orange, pine, balsam fir, tonka bean...in a mysterious blue bottle.

■ Ambre Nue by Atelier Cologne

■ Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum by Roberto Cavalli (Coty Prestige)

After Vanille Insensée. The brand cofounded by duo Christophe Cervasel and Sylvie Ganter hosts his seventh Cologne in the range ‘Cologne Absolue’. The second Matières Absolues. The scent was imagined in the moutains of Italy where the creators took holidays. Ambre Nue is an amazing new oriental cologne composed around the Nigritella Rubra orchid, that they harvest. The scent is based on a classic oriental structure (with Italian mandarin and bergamot, Egyptian taget in top notes, cinnamon, benzoin,

ciste labdanum, patchouli, tonka bean). Creator of many in the brand, Ralf Schwieger (Mane) signed

it. Cologne Absolue Ambre Nue is also available in scented soap and candle.

Nathalie Pichard toPNotes

New boutiques opened in Paris Jo Malone in the trendy district of Le Marais

Larger and new boutique Jovoy, near the Place Vendôme, with around 60 niche brands

■ Crazy Kiss by Salvador Dali (Cofinluxe)

Juicy ! Another fruity kiss by Salvador Dali signed by Dorothée Piot (Robertet). A fruity floral musky

fragrance in the Kiss collection dedicated to young sparkling women! The box is signed by artist designer Mikael Carriau. The kiss collection : a nice bottle each year, revamped with a new kiss, composed with a new olfactory interpretation, often in the fruity family (attractive and accessible) and that works !

■ London Blooms by Jo Malone (Estée Lauder Companies)

Inspired by the floral exhibition in Chelsea, London Blooms is Jo Malone’s new collection of fresh

paintings of londoner gardens drawn by perfumer Christine Nagel (Mane) with Studio Creation JM.

A set of limited edition Colognes : White Lilac and Rhubarb, Peony and Moss, Iris and Lady Moore. The olfactory compositions are written with floral poetry like three walks at springtime. Like a fresh, refined and delicate Liberty print. Launch in March.

Blooming seduction

Excess, glamour, gold... animal and colourful prints of italian fashion designer's universe. The first Cavalli fragrance for women developed by Coty Prestige belongs to the ambery floral family. A composition

signed by Louise Turner (Givaudan). Cavalli embodied by Italo-Egyptian-French actress and model

Elisa Sednaoui, new face of the brand.

Sceau de Cœurs by Poiray (shown) Peace and Love by Juicy Couture Pear Blossom by Tommy Hilfiger Nouvelle Collection by Robert Piguet Itisdream by Salvador Dali Aedes de Venustas Sexy Graffiti, Island Kiss, Rockin’Rio by Escada Bois de Turquie by Maître Parfumeur & Gantier