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Author:jonnyd55

I love making stuff, I love Instructables, I love tools, I love machines, and I love materials. But most of all I love Arnie.

Intro: Air EngineInspire the next generation of engineers, challenge their ability and push the boundaries of what they thought a 13year old can make and challenge what you think ateacher can teach!

This is a project I run in my after school engineering club, normally air/steam engines are difficult to make and even harder to get running, I studied various plans anddeveloped this relatively easy build..........even a poorly made example will run. It is a proud moment for both the student and the teacher when they complete and run

one of these. Check the video to see one in action.

Learning Objective

Students will apply a series of fundamental engineering skills using a variety of equipment and machinery to work with precision, this includes lathes and mill ingmachines. They have the opportunity to either work independently from a step by step guide or i f unsure about a process can ask a friend or teacher for guidanceenabling them to learn a new skill. Students aim to recall previously learnt skills and apply in a more challenging situation, they have to use a metal lathe to drill to aprecise depth, parallel turn to a specific tolerance, and......... they will also learn how to cast aluminium. This project is a skills challenge and a massive confidencebuilder.

Future learning objective

I am intending on expanding this next year to include scientific calculations.

F=MAPSI Vs RPM graphEfficiency

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Step 1:Students WorkHere are two typical examples of a students work.....remember these kids are only 13!

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Step 2:Fly Wheel - Making the mouldMaterials ; Styrofoam 75 x 75 x 20mm + 30 x 20 x 60

Scribe a Ø70mm circle on the Styrofoam using a divider or compassCut out with a coping saw then use the disk sander until roundCollect a 'runner' and cut a V groove in the top then flatten the other end on a disk sanderSee teacher to stick together with superglue.

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Step 3:Fly Wheel - CastingI am fortunate enough to have access to a crucible in my school workshop if you dont build your own by searching instructables for 'back yard foundry'

Take a metal container and add 20mm of sand in the baseAdd the mould and bury in sand so top of the runner is sticking out roughly 10mmGet teacher to pour aluminium into mould

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Step 4:Fly wheel - Preparing the castingCut runner off castingClamp and drill Ø6.8mm hole through the centre of the casting then tap a thread at M8Take a large diameter aluminium or steel rod (Ø25mm or above). Centre drill it and then drill a Ø6.8mm x 30mm holeCut the head off a M8 x 50mm bolt, file the sawn edge and put into the rod

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Step 5:Machining the castingScrew casting onto the machining arbourParallel turn down the sides until its round roundFace off the front of the casting

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Step 7:Fly Wheel - Drilling the holesUsing the Digital calliper accurately measure the inner and outer circles then create the 5 centre holes to lighten the flywheel using 2D Design to make a templDrill a small pilot hole Ø4mmDrill a Ø8mm holeUsing the deburing tool tidy the holes you have drilled.

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Step 8:Fly Wheel - Drilling the centreCarefully clamp the flywheel onto the pillar drill and drill the centre to Ø10mm and deburr edges

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Step 9:Cylinder - Facing & drillingMaterials ; Aluminium rod Ø25mm x 55mm long

Face off both ends and chamfer.centre drill and drill at Ø10mm to an accurate depth of 45mm.Use the digital calliper to check depth and re-drill if necessary.

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Step 10:Cylinder - Machining the flatSet up work in milling machine to create a flat edge approx 4mm wideLevel the work piece using a fixed scribeUse a digital calliper to check the width of each end. if its parallel your work is levelNow keep milling until the flat is 15mm wide.The image above shows what happens if its not level....you get a tapering cut on the surface

Step 11:Cylinder - Drilling holes in flatMeasure and mark the holes as per the working drawing, holding your work in a V-Block, centre punch, centre drill and dri ll the holes into the f lat.Put the cylinder back into the lathe and re-drill at Ø10mm but be carefull not to make the hole any deeper (this removes any burrs from drilling the small holes the flat..Use a countersink to deburr the edges of the hole.Sand the cylinder to create a good surface finish.

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Step 12:Cylinder - axelCut a Ø6mm steel rod to 30mm longFile a chamfer on each enduse a M6 die to cut an external thread 20mm longThread lock into the 6mm hole in the cylinder

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Step 13:PistonCut Ø8mm rod to 40mm longFace and chamfer both ends of the 8mm aluminium rod.Mark out and centre punch, then Drill Ø3.2mm hole as per the video and drawing below.Machine some Ø12mm nylon rod as per the diagram aboveThe nylon is hammered onto the aluminium

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Step 14:Chassis - Marking outPrint the working drawing ensuring the CAD software you use does not alter the scale. you can use the printout as a template.

Cut out a templateUse tape to stick template onto steel plate, ensure the bottom of the template is aligned with the bottom of the plateScribe around chosen template with a ruler and scriberEnsure the paper is pressed flat against the steel then centre punch the crosses.

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File Downloads

chassis.dtt (5 KB)[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'chassis.dtt']

Chassis.dxf (76 KB)[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Chassis.dxf']

Step 15:Chassis - Drilling HolesClamp the steel into a drill vice ensuring it is gripped on the top shelfUse a medium centre drill to drill and the holes approx 2mm deepUse the appropriate drill bit for each hole according the working drawing

Remove steel from vice and use the deburing tool to tidy up the edges

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Step 17:Crank Ring• Carefully measure distance between piston and chassis• Face off Ø25mm aluminium rod, centre drill, drill Ø10mm x 10mm deep• Chamfer the outer edge• Part off at the correct thickness• De-burr holes.• Center punch 4mm in from edge, drill Ø3mm.

• Cut Ø3mm steel to 12mm long and FILE a chamfer on the edges and thread lock it into the crank ring

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Step 18:Support rodsUse Ø12mm aluminium rod and create two pilers as per the working drawingDrill the side hole on a pillar drillThread all four holes with a M5 tap

Step 19:BaseThis is precut for the students as they are not allowed to use a routerStudents can mark and drill the holesThe measurements are taken from the hole centres on the chassisThe diameter of the holes is Ø6mm for the clearance and Ø10mm fro the counter bore

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Step 20:AssemblyThe flywheel and crank are attached using a Ø10mm steel rod that is long enough to go through the fly wheel, chassis, and crank r ingThe axel should be stuck using threadlock...note....do not get threadlock in the chassis or the wheel will not turnThey cylinder is held with a spring and a M6 nutThe support pillars are fixed using a M5 bolt cut to sizeThe base is fixed to the engine with 30mm long M5 bolts

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Step 21:EnjoyThis example has a very heavy flywheel so is much slower than the one shown on the fist step.

If you have any questions about this please ask.

Jonny

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