black ruffled cape original

7/30/2019 Black Ruffled Cape Original

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Black Ruffled Cape

By: burdastyle

http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/black-ruffled-cape

The inspiration behind this cape lies in the elegantly sculpted lines of designers like Giambattista Vallishis gorgeous collections are at once ethereal and soft, but also structured and defined. From our LindseyCape pattern, which was fun to update, we slashed & spread the collar to create gathers and volume, andinserted stays so it stands up on its own. The original welt pockets were eliminated and now there are singlewelt pockets. Alas, a long, gathered ruffle was added to the lengthened hemline for drama! A girl needs tomake an entrance

Materials

This cape translates beautifully in lightweight wools, silk de Chine, taffeta, or velvet. This cape: 3 yardsblack silk de Chine, 2 1/2 yards lining. 10 buttons, 5 collar stays.

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Step 1 Pattern

PATTERN

3 yards (2,75 meters) SELF2 yards (1,75 metes) LINING-1 Cape 2x2 Collar 2x3 Collar stand 2x4 Front 2x5 Back 1x6 Piping 4x (ELIMINATE)

7 Pocket pouch 2x8 Lining cape 2x

Fabrics: Silks; Taffeta, de Chine, Sueded; Tweed, Boucl

Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints:This pattern can be printed out on 54 sheets of 8 1/2 x 11 paper OR at the Copy Shop on a SINGLEpiece of paper. Once all 54 pages are printed out, tape the full sheets together before cutting out the patternpieces. Begin with the lower left sheet, matching up the lines and numbers as carefully as possible. Cut outthe pattern in your size. This pattern has 5/8 seam allowance already added.

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Step 2 Determine Your Size

Select your size according to our size chart (http://www.burdastyle.com/statics/size-chart). Adjust the patternto fit your measurements if they deviate from the size chart. Cut out the pattern pieces 1 to 8 for the capeaccording to your size.

Sizes 6 to 24 (EU 38 to 56): Mark the button holes on piece 1. The space between the top button hole and theneckline is the same as marked on size 4 (EU 36). The bottom button hole is placed at the same spot for allsizes. Mark the center button hole in between the top and bottom one.Refer to our Adjust patterns for mixed sizes technique.

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN PIECESOur pattern is calculated for a height of 5 6 (168 cm). If you are taller or shorter, you can adjust thepattern pieces along the lines marked lengthen or shorten here . This way the proper fit is maintained.Always adjust all pattern pieces along the same line to the same degree.

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:Cut the pattern pieces along the marked linesTo lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as necessary.To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary. Blend the side edges.

Step 3 CUTTING OUT | FOLD ( )

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FOLD ( ) means: Cut on the fold, the fold being the center of the pattern piece, but never a cutedge or seam. The piece should be cut double, with the fold line forming the center line. Pattern pieces thatare outlined with a broken line in the cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric. The cuttingdiagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.The cutting diagrams show the placement of the pattern on the fabric.For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the right side. For double layers of fabric, theright sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side. The pattern pieces that are shownextending over the fold of the fabric in the cutting diagram should be cut last from a single layer of fabric.

Step 4 SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES

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SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES: This pattern has a seam allowance of 1 58" (4 cm) for the

HEM and 5/8 (1.5 cm) everywhere else.LINING: Cut lining for pieces 7 and 8 twice. See cutting diagram.INTERFACING: Cut out the interfacing pieces and press onto the wrong side of the fabric.SEWING: While sewing, the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. If you d like you can transferall lines of the pattern onto the right side of the fabric using chalk.

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Step 5 PATTERN ALTERATIONS | COLLAR

Tape collar (2) onto new piece of pattern paper. I wanted a curved edge on my collar so I drew that line in,and added seam allowance to the new, curved piece. Do the same for the under collar, making sure theymatch up in shape.

*Note: I feel as if 5/8" seam allowance (the Burda standard) is way too much and makes sewing and turningthe collar pieces almost impossible I ended up using 1/4" seam allowance for the collar.

Step 6 CUT & SPREAD

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Cutting and spreading is a proper way to add volume to a pattern piece. I wanted a gathered top collar so Ispread my new shape out in 1" segments.The under collar shall remain as is.

Step 7 COLLAR

Trace the cut and spread piece onto a new piece of paper. This will be your new collar.

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Step 8 FACING

Now that you have a new collar shape youll probably have to adjust the shape of the BACK FACINGPIECE. Here is how my shape changed, and the new facing piece I created.

Step 9 SINGLE WELT POCKETS

I think we all agree that welt pockets are difficult to execute right? So this was made a but simpler, utilizing asingle welt pocket. SEE THIS TUTORIAL FOR SEWING SINGLE WELT POCKETS. Take piece 6 anddouble the width this will create the widened, single welt pocket piece.

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The pocket bag seemed to not have seam allowance 5/8" was added to the pattern piece.

Step 10 LENGTHEN CAPE FRONT & BACK

The original Lindsey cape comes to about crotch-length. I added 5" to the length of the front and back capepieces.

Step 11 RUFFLE

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To balance out the voluminous, stand-up collar I thought this cape needed something more so I added aruffle. You can make one or not. I did this a super easy way: I just ripped 4" wide strips of 3-yard-long silkde chine. See THIS TUTORIAL for gathering ruffles.

I sewed this ruffle to the outer cape piece and made the bottom of the ruffle flush with the hemline.

Step 12 SEWING | CENTER BACK SEAM

CENTER BACK SEAMPosition the cape pieces together, right sides facing. Stitch center seam. Press allowances apart. (a)

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Step 13 POCKETS

Take the new pocket flap pieces youve cut out in the self fabric Iron on interfacing to the entire back andfold lengthwise.

Mark on the front cape panels where the pockets should be, as marked on the original pattern. Cut along theline and sew the pocket lining piece to the outside edges of either side. Sew the other pocket bag piece to theinside of the line, including the welt piece in the seam line. Sew the pocket bags together, right sides facing,and turn inwards. The pocket flaps should be facing out.

Again, see this tutorial for a full Single Welt Pocket tutorial:http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/single-welt-pockets

Step 14 COLLAR | STAND

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TOP COLLARIron soft, flexible interfacing onto top collar. Gather and stay stitch the gathers of the top collar. Make surethe top collar aligns with the under collar.

UNDER COLLARIron on soft-to-stiffer interfacing to under collar. See markings on new pattern for the flexible boning and pinstrips onto under collar in the 5 places marked.

COLLAR WITH STANDPosition the stand and collar pieces together (seam number 1), right sides facing. Stitch. Trim allowances,snip in and press apart. (a)

Position the collar pieces together, right sides facing. Pin the edges together and stitch. Trim allowances andcut the corners at a slant. Turn the collar. Pin edges, press and stitch 1/4 (0.7 cm) wide. Pin open edges.Position the collar stand seam lines together and pin. Stitch. (b)

Position the collar between the cross lines on the neckline (seam number 2), right sides facing. The crosslines of the collar stand meet the cross lines (shoulder) at the neckline.

PLACKETSPosition the front and back plackets together, right sides facing. Stitch shoulder seams (seam number 3).Press allowances apart. Neaten the inner placket edge. (d)

Step 15 SEWING CAPE LINING

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CENTER BACK SEAMPosition the lining cape pieces together, right sides facing. Stitch the center seam and leave an 8 opening(to turn it inside out later on). Secure seam ends and press allowances apart.

Pin the placket on the lining (seam number 5), right sides facing. The shoulder seams meet the cross lines.Stitch. Trim allowances, snip in and press inside the lining. (a)

DOUBLE CAPEPosition the lined placket above the collar, onto the neckline and the front and bottom cape edges (seamnumber 4). The right sides are facing. Stitch. Trim allowances, snip in and cut he corners at a slant. (b)

Turn the cape inside out through the opening at the lining. Pin the edges and press. Stitch front edges, bottomedges and neckline 1/4 (0.7 cm) wide. Stitch the opening at the lining piece narrowly. Work BUTTON HOLES inside the right front edge. Apply BUTTONS onto the left center edge of the frontpiece.

Step 16 RUFFLE

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For the ruffle piece I sewed in onto the self AND lining, about 4" up from the hemline (the hemline should besewn). This creates a band around the cape, which makes for little cuffs!

I stood straight and measured where my hands came out of the bottom of the cape. I then sewed 2 blackbuttons on and made button holes so that the hemline would create a cuff, this way everything you do is done

with pizazz!

Black Ruffled Cape

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black ruffled cape original

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