delay analysis report

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

INTERSHIP REPORT COMPANY: HHEC of India Ltd., 31 - 32, Guindy Industrial Estate, Chennai, Tamilnadu.

AN EFFORT BY: NEELKANTH PASHUPATI SINHA PRASHANT KUMAR TARUN PARGAI

B.F.Technology (Apparel Production)Semester -7(Batch 2009 - 2013)

1

Acknowledgment

Our sincere gratitude to our mentor Mr. Amit kumar Anjanee (Assistant Professor) DFT, for his support, guidance and encouragement. We are very thankful to H.H.E.C, Chennai for entrusting us to do our internship with them. We are indebted to thank, Mr.K. Venkataraman (Senior Manager), Mr.K. Paneerselvam (Assistant Marketing Manager), Mr. Manohar (Marketing Executive) , Mr.R.Laxminarayanan(consultant) for their information, guidance and support.

We would like to thanks to our course coordinator Mr. Samuel Wesley (Associate Professor) DFT, for her special support.

I would like to thank each of my batch mates for support and co-operation.

2

COMPANY HIERARCHY

3

General Manager

Production Manager

Quality Manager

Quality Incharge

Line checker

Unit incharge Sampling Incharge Cutting Incharge

Sampling supervisor

Cutting supervisor Unit supervisor

Stitching supervisor

Packing supervisor

Packing incharge

COMPANY PROFILE

HHEC , a Govt of India Ministry of Textile company has an exhaustic range of Indian handicrafts , indian handlooms , Indian decoratives , Indian gifts , Indian antiques , leather decoratives , gems and jewellery , Garments , wrought iron handicrafts . We at HHEC ensure the quality and genuiness of the product .HHEC's Garment division has a modern factory in Chennai (Madras) located at the Industrial Estate, Guindy (Madras). It manufactures and exports apparel made of cotton, silk and cotton/nylon for men, women and children. Its strength is in casual wear of cotton fabrics. It has separate quality assurance wing, which takes care of online quality control (In cutting room and sewing room) as well as final quality audit before releasing garments for pressing and packing. The fabric inspection wing takes care of quality control before releasing fabrics for cutting.

Fabrics that are used for makingGarments

Quality of the Fabric Items

COTTON

Light Medium weight in yarnDyed like 40s x 40s, 2/60s x 40s,2/40s x 20s, 2/80s x 2/60s,Seersucker, 80s mull, cambric,Bubbled batik, Kalamkari,Patchwork fabric, printed, Dobby& Jacquard. Heavy weight-Twill, Drill, Flannel, 2/10s x 6s

Mens, Ladies &Childrenswear

Like Shirts,Blouses, pants, Shorts,Tops,Dresses, etc.,

SILK

Filature x Filature, Filature x Dupion,Taffeta, tussar, Matka,Muga.

4

S.NO PARAMETER VALUE MAINTAINED

1FLOOR AREA OF EACH FLOOR

2 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS

DISTANCE BETWEEN

EACH, NOT MORE THAN

50 FT.

3HEIGHT OF LIGHT FROM THE

SEWING MACHINE1.3 METERS

4ANGLE OF THE CHROMIUM

REFLECTORS45° TO 60°

5POWER OF EACH ENERGY

EFFICIENT TUBE LIGHT28 WATTS.

6 HEIGHT OF THE FLOOR 24 FT( 6.6 METERS)

7 URINALS6 FOR MEN(1 urinal per 30),

8 FOR FEMALE(1 per 20)

8 AISLE SPACES42 INCHES( 3.5 FT or 1.06

MTS)

9DISTANCE BETWEEN CUTTING

TABLES4.5 FT (1.37 MTS)

10DISTANCE BETWEEN EACH

SEWING LINE4 FT( 1.21 MTS)

12 WINDOWS LOCATED ON THREE

SIDES OF WALLS

5

Non-Sewing Machines

SL

No.

Description Make Model

1 Snap Button Toniy T1808

2 Button Pull Tester Presto

3 Button Wrapping St-9 Loiva

4 Placket Cutting Nagashing NS94

5 Collar notcher Nagashing NS91

6 Collar Turning Nagashing NS44

7 Collar Turning Nagashing NS81

8 Cuff Turning Nagashing NS46

9 Cuff Turning Nagashing NS85

10 Thread Winding Toniy TI3900

11 Cloth Drilling Eastman CD3

12 Cutting Eastman 629X/BLUE STRECK

13 Round Knife Cutting Eastman EC 45

14 End Cutter Sulee 360

15 End Cutter Nagashing NS71

16 Band Knife Oshima OB900A

6

Sewing Machinery Details:

224 Single Needle machines and special machines like, lockstitch button stitching, Front placket Multineedle sewing machine, Elastic attaching Multineedle machine, Keyhole buttonholing machine, Feed –off the arm, Double needle, blind stitch hemming machine, 5 thread overlocking machine. Also special attachments of suisei brand like pin tucking attachment, Ruffler attachment, Spaghetti attachment for loop making, bias binders, straight binders. etc.,

7

ACTIVITIES OF A MERCHANDISER

8

SAMPLING

MERCHANDISING

PRODUCTION PLANNING DEPT.

FABRIC MAIN STORE

FABRIC SUB-STORE

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

SEWING SECTION

FINISHING

QUALITY

PACKAGING SHIPMENT

TRIM STORE

Design/Sampling

Fabric

Accessories

Testing

Production

Quality Check

Documentation

Shipping/Forwarding

MARKETING MERCHANDISING

Main functions of marketing merchandising are:

Product development

Costing

Getting Purchase Orders

It brings the order, develops the product, and does the costing. It has a direct access to

the Buyer.

PRODUCT MERCHANDISING

This is from sourcing to finishing that is from first sample to onwards, the product

merchandising work starts and ends till the shipment

PACKAGE FILE

It consist of following reports

1. List of orders pasted on the left hand inside cover of the file.

2. Tech pack.

3. CAD marker-costing and factory

4. RMR-order wise and summary chart

5. Trim pro forma invoices from the supplier.

6. Confirmation of the trim

9

7. Order chart from the buyer

8. P.O. copies from the buyers

9. Fabric “order confirmations” with approved fabrics swatches

10. Hard copy of all incoming and outgoing crucial and important mails that may

be required for future references (buyer related)

11. Mills fabric reports-checking, testing

12. Internal fabric reports-checking, testing

13. Buyer approved-

a. Trim card

b. Shade bands

c. Wash swatch/wash mocks

d. Embroidery/printing

14. Packing list

Sampling Department

WORKING PROCEDURES 1. The package file is received from the merchandiser and the copies of it are

handed over to the sampling manager, CAD in charge, sampling technician and

the sampling QA in charge.

2. The pattern request is received from the merchandiser by the sampling manager

for the following samples:

Fit sample

PP sample

Size set sample

Top sample

Types of samples

Proto sample

It is made of out raw fabric. It is the first sample send to the buyer to check the fit of

the garment. It is also known as development sample.

Design sample

All the designs are implemented in the garment in order to look the appearance and the

design of the sample to the buyer.

10

Size set sample

All the sizes of a particular style are stitched is stitched and send to buyer. The buyer

checks the grading in this sample.

3 samples are made.

Every sample contains a review sheet and spec sheet .

4 proto sample of each size are made and 1 is send to-

Buyer.

Merchandiser

Vendor

Sampling section.

Pre-salesman sample

3. Generally the above 3 sample are not asked for by most of the buyers. Hence the

next sample is made after the proto sample, is the pre-salesman sample.

4. Then samples are made to check the samples whether they are proper for the SRC

5. 3 samples are made.

6. These samples are sent to the buyer for the buyer for approval.

7. The sampling section also calculates the Thread Consumption. This is done using

the meter. The meter is attached to the sewing machine and the garment is stitched.

The meter gives the amount of thread consumed (in mtr).

8. They also calculate the thread using the measuring method. They stitch a meter

length. Then the thread is ripped off and the length measures.

9. They then prepare the Thread Consumption Report. This report contains the details

– Type of stitch, Stitching length, SPI, Consumption per mtr. This is filled for all the

stitches in the garment.

10. The weekly plan is then generated based on the requisition received from the

merchandiser and it is handed over to the sampling coordinator, CAD in charge,

merchandiser and the sampling QA in charge.

11. The pattern cum sample requisition is given to the sampling coordinator by the

sampling manager for manual patterns as per the buyer requirements.

11

12. The CAD in charge receives the package file from the sampling coordinator and

after discussion with the sampling manager and the technician the package file copy

is handed over and discussed with the concerned pattern maker.

13. The pattern maker after discussing with the technician makes the patterns

according the details in the package file and hand over the patterns to the CAD in

charge.

14. The patterns along with the cutting plan are then handed over to the sampling

coordinator who in turn hands them over to the cutters.

15. The requisition is raised for the fabric and accessories by the sampling coordinator

and given to be signed by the sampling manager.

16. According to the weekly plan prepared by the sampling manager for the tailors and

cutters, their individual targets are fixed.

17. The feeding helpers do the loading as per the requisition of accessories and fabric

to the cutters and tailors

18. Cutting and stitching of samples is then started.

12

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL DEPARTMENT

WORKING PROCEDURES

The senior coordinator of the PPD receives the order booking from the GM

merchandising through mail. It has the following details in it:

style #

quantity

delivery date

fabric in-house data

accessories in-house data

The operation breakdown (OB) of the particular style is received from the IE

department to fix the final inspection (FI) dates, the sample collected from the

concerned merchandiser is studied with the OB and the CMD is checked for

machines.

13

RECEIVING ORDER BOOKING

GENERATE FACTORY PLANNING

GENERATE PCD PLAN

GENERATE LINE PLAN

GENERATE FINISHING PLAN

GENERATE HOURLY PRODUCTION REPORT

DISCUSS WITH UNIT

Based on the order booking, factory planning is generated as per the delivery date

and copied to the following:

GM merchandising

Merchandiser

FABRIC STORE DEPARTMENT

The basic functions of the fabric store are:

Storage and Segregation of Fabric for production.

Storage of dead stock.

Maintain basic stock.

Co-ordinate fabric flow between cutting, processing, and audit department.

Coordination between the Suppliers, Fabric processing, audit and cutting

Department.

Maintain account and documents in order to ensure regular flow of fabric and

no shortage.

Report maintained in the fabric department.

Maintain inspection reports.

Physical Testing & Inspection:

Fabric is inspected by using a 4 point system. It is a projection of total defects based

on the total number of defects found during inspection of a sample as a basis for

acceptance/rejection criteria. In this point inspection system penalty points are

assigned base on the standard fault.

There is only manual inspection. In 4 point system 40 points are acceptable.

For minor defect cross sticker is place for identification

For major defect part changed sticker is place for identification

Point assign for the 4 point system

Fault Size Point Assigned

0 to 3 inches 1

3 to 6 inches 2

6 to 9 inches 3

9 & above 4

14

Upto 40 points are acceptable

The common defects observed are:

Fabric uneven width Slub

Foreign yarn Stain

Missing yarn Knot

Reed mark Selvedge thickness

Fabric shade Fabric design

Cuts Thickness

Trims department

Infrastructure:

Racks

Issuing table

Fire extinguisher

Tube light

Fan

Trims available in trim department:

Threads

Tissue paper

Clip, PVC Patti

Poly bag, single and

master polybag.

Buttons-14,16,18

Carton, gum tape

Main label

Wash care label

Barcode label

Zipper-6 ½,3 ½,4 ½,5 ½,11

½,17,18 and 19

Taps

Needles-DB*5=14and18,

DB*5=16,

15

DB*17=14(button hole).

Process Flow

First the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy contains

various details such as the PCD Date, Sample Date, PCD Sample, Prototype

Sample, Order chart, RMR.

The trim store in-charge takes out only the Raw Material Status Report (RMR).

This report gives the details as to the which trims are to be received, the

consumption per garment, the required quantity, the quantity ordered, the

quantity received and the balance left to receive.

There are 2 parts to the trims store.

o Stitching Part

o Packing Part

When the trims are received, the trim unit checks them and makes an Inward

Challan. In the quantity ordered, 3% extra is always added as for wastage

considerations.

Maintain a Daily Status Report of the trims that are issued from the main store

and the balance left yet to receive.

The inspection of the trims and accessories is done in the main unit itself.

Hence, when the trims are received, they are only stored and issued to the

production at the trims store.

However, for buttons counting is done. Inspection is done in case of Labels and

Shrinkage test for Elastic.

Out of the 1 roll or 1 box, 100 labels are inspected for defects or damages.

o If 4 defects are found, it is accepted.

o If 5 or more defects are found, then another 100 are checked.

If 4 defects are found, it is accepted.

If 5 or more than 5 defects are found, then the entire lot is rejected.

In case of 100 labels,

o 40 defective are acceptable

o 50 are unacceptable

o And 40-50 are in the decision making process.

16

There are many types of labels that are used in the production:

o Main Label – has the buyer’s name and logo

o Content Label – contains the content of the fabric

o Size Label – size of the garment is specified

o Wash care Label – has the wash care instructions for the garment

Shrinkage (%) = [After wash – Before wash)/before wash] * 100

In case there different shades in the buttons that are received, all the different

shades of the buttons are stuck too in the chart.

This chart goes to the merchandiser for the approval. The merchandiser signs

the chart and sends back. The shades of the buttons (if present) are then

approved form the buyer and signed.

The rest of the trims are not inspected. After this inspection, a meeting is held

between the trim store head, Industrial Engineer Department head, Production

coordinator and the cutting department head.

In this meeting it is decide as to which colour and style has to be cut first for

production. This is decided on the trims that are received. As to for which style

and colour the trims are available for production.

This is taken by the feeding helper who maintains a register called the Cutting

Book. All the details of the slip are copied into this book, except the Shrinkage.

The helper also fills in the time..

The trims and accessories are then issued to the required dept as per the

required qty.

There is no fixed method of Issuing System followed here. The trims as and

when received are kept together (mixed up). While issuing any of the stored are

issued.

After every 2-3 days the stocks are checked.

The trims store also maintains Bin Card. These bin cards were found hanging

by the racks that store the trims. Every section in the rack had an individual bin

card containing all the details.

The bin card contains the details of the trims that are being stored in the rack,

how much is issued and the balance. Details – Date, Received Qty, Date, Line

no., issued qty, Balance.

Inspection for the selected trims & accessories

17

Sl.No ITEM PARAMETERS

CHECKED

TOLARANCE

1. Sewing thread Shade no. NIL

Ply NIL

type NIL

2. Button Line no NIL

type NIL

No of holes NIL

colour NIL

3. Zipper type NIL

1. length NIL

Type of puller NIL

colour NIL

2. Cartons Size +1”-1/2”

No of ply NIL

Printed matter NIL

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

18

Objective of cutting room:

Cost control

Cutting methods

Process Flow:

Defect management

Spreading techniques

Material handling

19

Merchandiser sends the cutting details desample

Numbering

Marker planning done and Fabric consumption calculated

Spreading and cutting

Panel checking (Top, middle, bottom)

ok

Pilot run

ok

Bulk run

Maintaining Min using book

TICKETING /BUNDLING

SEND FOR SEWING

MANUAL SPREADING AND CUTTING

First a layslip is given from the minusing department. Minusing department gets

the total quantity which has to be cut and the ration of the sizes in which marker

planning is made, then as the pieces are cut they keep on subtracting that quantity

from the minusing book. Mainly the cut order planning is done.

After spreading 1 or 2 ply of a lay, QC checks for the length, width, face side, and

shade variation of the fabric.

When QC comes through any defect a sticker is pasted there and a brown sheet is

placed so that that part can be recognised easily for recutting,

Then the manual marker or plotted marker is placed over the lay and with straight

knife patterns are cut.

NUMBERING

After the panels are cut, according to the size and shade bundles of parts of the

garment are made which contain 20 pieces of each parts and each part of a garment

are given the same ticket number.

After numbering the parts of the garment in the bundle are counted and recorded in

the cutting check list.

FUSING

After numbering the parts which has to be fused is send to the fusing incharge

where they are fused.

Before fusing the temperature, time, and pressure is evaluated by using viline

fusing tape. After fusing the parts are send for bundling. And then stored in parts

bank.

Observation Suggestion

20

Difference between the actual and standard spreading time.

Spreading techniques should be practiced by the operator.

Only big left over pieces are reused

.

Waste pieces should be given to recycling industry

Out of 3 fusing machine only 2 machines are functional.

Machine should be repaired to reduce the time consumed.

SEWING DEPARTMENT

21

PROCESS FLOW

22

MERCHANDISING PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

TECHPACK, SEALED SAMPLES, PATTERN

ESTIMATED OPERATION BULLETIN

CUT (FABRICS, PANELS)

SEWING SECTION

SIZE SET

PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING

FINAL OPERATION BULLETIN

BATCH SETTING

PILOT RUN

BULK PRODUCTION

PRODUCTION MANAGER, MERCHANDISER SAMPLING,

CUTTING, QUALITY PLANNING, BUYER REPRESENTATIVE

WORKING PROCEDURE IN SEWING FLOOR

Once the Order gets confirmed for a particular style the planning department comes in

to action. It planned in well advance that which unit is going for Production as well as

the Quantity.

Then Factory Manager, decides the batch size, number of Batches and daily target to

be achieved by the each batch. Other details such as no of stitches/inch at different

areas, measurement for different sizes, placement of trims etc are finalized and

standardized at the sampling stage.

Report maintained by Sewing Department

Daily production report

Hourly production report

Monthly labour report

Batch order completion

Batch planning file

Cutting loading book

Time and motion study

Purchase order sheet

Manpower report

Quality Check

Quality check at Sewing Department conducted at two stages of production.

1. Inline quality check

2. End-line quality check

Inline inspection is done after every critical operation. This are----

Collar end

Sleeve and cuff end

Front end

Collar attaching

Side seam (feed of arm)

End of the line inspection is done after the last operation.

23

The following reports are made after the quality checking.

In line Inspection Report

End line Inspection Report

QC Report

AQL Report

INSPECTION:

The buyer recommends the suppliers to have an Independent Quality Assurance team

responsible for quality control (internal audits). The team should be separated from

the production team and under the direction of ownership, or fully independent.

It is important that an internal quality control (audit) is done before offering the

order for buyer inspection.

Suppliers who use subcontractors for production must have their own QC's working

at the subcontractors. It is the supplier's responsibility to make sure that the

subcontractor follows all buyer quality standards and requirements.

INTIAL INSPECTION:

It is important that the QC team carries out initial inspections after a trial cutting of

100 -500 pieces covering all sizes and colours. This is to ensure conformance to

requirements. This inspection is very important in order to get a smooth running

production. At this stage it is still possible to find and solve problems without

causing any major disturbance in the production.

Information about an order's planned production start and finish is to be given to the

buyer office.

INLINE INSPECTION:

The purpose of this inspection is to confirm that during the early stages of

production, the agreed manufacturing specifications are being followed. The

approved counter sample, and its duplicates, must be present at all stages of

production. Information regarding style, measurements, accessories etc must be

available for everyone. All problems identified during inline inspections, must be

corrected immediately by the supplier and must not be present at the time of the next

buyer’s QC inspection.

24

The goods must be inspected and records must be kept after each major stage

during production e.g.

Cutting: parts and panels size conformance, fabric or knit defects.

Pre-assembly: general workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g.

Stitching, linking, collars, sleeves, position of pockets.

Assembly: general workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g.

stitching, linking, pockets, zippers, position and fastening of buttons and

rivets, buttonholes.

Finishing/pressing: overall workmanship, pressing appearance and

measurements.

MAINTENANCE IN SEWING FLOOR

Maintenance manager generates the reports from the complaint register for the

following things:

Recurrence of the problem

Efficiency of mechanics

Total break down time

Line wise break down

Machine wise break down

For the above system each factory is provided with mechanics, 1 Needle boy and 2

Helpers.

Reports to be made by this department:

A daily maintenance report which should include

Collective break down report

Needle consumption for the day

Spares consumed for the day

Machinery serviced on floor for the day

Corrective actions taken

Machinery movement report (monthly)

Idle machine report (weekly)

Folders and attachments report

OBSERVATION

25

Observation SuggestionOperator idle time is high. This is due to lack of feed from the previous operation.

This can be reduced by further improving the operator allocation.

Material flow can be improved further. This will reduce the chances of bottlenecks.

This can also be improved by the proper operator allocation i.e. following the skill matrix of operator’s job and the no. of operators are needed to be assigned.

External disturbances such as gossips, calling operator for any other work, operator movement form one table to another etc are need to reduce.

External disturbances can only be reduced by setting rules and regulations. Individual table should have their own set of instruments.

It has been observed that operator face doubts regarding the style variation. So to clear these doubt they have to move to the line supervisor. Thus the SAM increases.

The operators need to be clear about the style and if possible the charts displaying the sewing procedure can be made available in the sewing line.This will reduce the SAM and may help in increasing the quality garment.

FINISHING DEPARMENT PROCESS FLOW

FINISHING PROCESS

26

1. the garments are loaded into the button holing section and the approved sample

is checked for the following:

Button hole, button placement, eyelet placement etc.

Thread runs

No of buttons

Two / Four hole buttons

2. Production targets are given to individual operators and pieces are checked

randomly every hour. In case of defective pieces, they are returned to the batch

for alteration and are kept a track of.

3. After button hole and button attach, the feeding helper loads the pieces into the

trimming section.

4. The no. of pieces loaded is entered into the loading register.

5. All trimmers are given individual targets. In case of any defects, the pieces are

returned to the batch for alteration, darners. The pieces then go for flat ironing

after which the button closing is done and the extra button is attached.

6. After this, the pieces go for final check and presentation check. In the final

check, the pieces are checked on the outside starting from one point and ending

at the same. In the presentation check, the pieces are checked for the overall

look of the garment-the fall, alignment of the plackets etc.

7. After this the pieces undergo measurement check where the garments are

checked for compliance with the measurements in the buyer’s spec sheet.

8. After the measurement check the pieces go for a final pressing, tagging,

polybag packing and carton packing (size-wise or color-wise as per the buyer’s

requirement).

Once the cartons are open ed the following has to be checked

Count the no of pcs as per the ratio.

Poly bags

Hangers

Folding

27

Ironing

Size, Main & wash care labels.

Price tags

Extra buttons

Measurements

Quality

EQUIPMENTS

No. of tables - 30

Types of machine in finishing room:

Collar pressing machine, no. of machine Waistband pressing machine, no. of machine Folding machine, no. of machine Pressing machine, no. of machine

INSPECTION AND MEASUREMENT (TIGHTEN INSPECTION)

1.5 A.Q.L% 2.5 A.Q.L%

CONSIGNMENT LOT SIZE

SAMPLE SIZE

ACCEPTED REJECTED ACCEPTED REJECTED

1-50 8 0 1 0 151-90 13 0 1 0 191-150 20 0 1 1 2151-280 32 1 2 2 3281-500 50 2 3 3 4501-1200 80 3 4 5 61201-3200 125 5 6 7 8

Observation Suggestion

The finishing unit has much more capacity than actual. This can be said on the basis that the full area is still not utilized and the industry is using the

Utilization of full area will provide for better movement area and disposing of the unused equipments and waste would give better working conditions.

28

older process for finishing.

\

APPAREL INTERNSHIPHHEC

GUINDY INDUSTRIAL ESTATE

29

PROJECT ON

“ANALYSIS OF DELAY FACTORS IN SEWING FLOOR AND SOLUTION”

Analysis of delay factors in sewing floor and solution.

Synopsis

Scope: It will provide a solution to minimize the delays, identify and rectify the

problems which comes in sewing department.

OBJECTIVES

30

The main objective is to study the operator activities in garment industry and the

percentage of distribution of operations and to analyse the personal and delay

allowance by observing the operations by:

Developing a system to minimize/control the delay that were found

Find out the accurate% of time loss Identify concern factors and contribution of each of them and analysis them

statically. How to increase the efficiency to achieve daily target

Factors

Sewing Operator Productivity & Earnings.

Sewing Operator Morale.

Manufacturing Through-put Time.

Products Produced may Require Greater Inspection.

Capacity planning is an operations strategy which has been considered as a means of

estimating their capacity and do things better, thus improving their efficiency. By

optimally utilising the existing capacity there is a chance to improve their efficiency

and actually grow without necessarily investing a huge sum of money.

The export oriented apparel manufacturers make goods on a make to order basis rather

than on a make to sell strategy as a result there can not be over stocking of goods

which has to be liquidated at a lower price later. However there can be frequent issues

of idle capacity or shortage of capacity exist .In the whole process the manufacturer

must ensure the timely shipment of goods to the buyer or customer.

Aspects of capacity

1. Capacity depends on the interaction of various resource constraints, such as

equipment, labour availability, storage space etc.

2. Capacity is mix dependent, so capacity should be expressed in terms of aggregate

measures.

31

3. Capacity is technologically based; an estimate of capacity implies some assumption

about the technology used.

4. Capacity is dynamic, in that as a manufacturing facility gains experience in

producing something, and discovers and removes successive bottlenecks; its total

capacity tends to expand with time, even without major new investments.

5. Capacity may not be sustainable because normally when stated as so many units

could have many meanings.

For example it could mean the average output per month or the maximum achievable

output for the period, or the best performance actually achieved in the past.

1. Capacity is storable, for instance maintaining excess equipment (to allow

regular. Maintenance) or excess labour (to fill in for missing employees) is a

form of stored capacity.

Standard Allowed Minute is used to measure task or work content of a garment. This term is widely used by industrial engineers and production people in the garment manufacturing industry. For the estimation of cost of making a garment SAM value plays a very important role. In past scientists and apparel technicians did research on how much time to be allowed to do a job when one follows standard method during doing the job. According to the research study minute value has been defined for each movement needed to accomplish a job. Synthetic data is available for each movements.

General Sewing Data (GSD) has defined set of codes for motion data for SAM calculation. There is also other methods through which one can calculate SAM of a garment with out using synthetic data or GSD. Both method has been explained in the following.

Method Used'predetermined time standard' (PTS) code are used to establish 'Standard Time' of a garment or other sewing products.

Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM.

Step 2: Study the motions of that operation. Stand by side of an operator (experienced one) and see the operator how he is doing it. Note all movement used by the operator in doing one complete cycle of work. See carefully again and recheck your note if all

32

movement/motion are captured and correct. (for example motions are like - pick up parts one hand or two hand, align part on table or machine foot, realign plies, etc.)

Step 3: List down all motion sequentially. Refer the synthetic data for TMU (Time measuring unit) values. For synthetic data you can refer GSD (without licence use of GSD code prohibited but for personal use and study one can refer GSD code and TMU values) or Sewing Performance Data table (SPD). Now you got TMU value for one operation (for example say it is 400 TMU). Convert total TMU into minutes (1 TMU=0.0006 minute). This is called as Basic Time in minutes. In this example it is 0.24 minutes.

Step 4: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time. Now you got Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.24+0.024+0.048) = 0.31 minutes.I like to refer you an article Secret Behind Calculation of Machine Time in SAM for better understand of SAM calculation.

Method 2 - Through Time Study:Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM.

Step 2: Take one stop watch. Stand by side of the operator. Capture cycle time for that operation. (cycle time – total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation, i.e. time from pick up part of first piece to next pick up of the next piece). Do time study for consecutive five cycles. Discard if found abnormal time in any cycle. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time you got from time study is called cycle time. To convert this cycle time into basic time you have to multiply cycle time with operator performance rating. [Basic Time = Cycle Time X performance Rating]

Step 3: Performance rating. Now you have to rate the operator at what performance level he was doing the job seeing his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is 80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes

Step 4: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time. Now you got Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes.

Method 3 - Through Videography:Step 1: Select one operation for which you want to calculate SAM.

33

Step 2: Take one camera. Stand by side of the operator. Capture video for that operation. (cycle time – total time taken to do all works needed to complete one operation, i.e. time from pick up part of first piece to next pick up of the next piece). Take video for connsecutive five cycles. Discard if found abnormal time in any cycle. Calculate average of the 5 cycles. Time you got from time study is called cycle time. To convert this cycle time into basic time you have to multiply cycle time with operator performance rating. [Basic Time = Cycle Time X performance Rating]

Step 3: Performance rating. Now you have to rate the operator at what performance level he was doing the job seeing his movement and work speed. Suppose that operator performance rating is 80%. Suppose cycle time is 0.60 minutes. Basic time = (0.60 X 80%) = 0.48 minutes

Step 4: Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances). Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time. Now you got Standard Minute value (SMV) or SAM. SAM= (0.48+0.048+0.096) = 0.624 minutes.

Advantages of videography

1. Videography helps us to retain the data captured.2. Video can be used for further study.3. Comparative study can be done more efficiently.4. Rating can be done separately after time study.

COST ESTIMATION OF A GARMENTIn the clothing manufacturing, supplier gives final manufacturing cost to buyer prior to order confirmation. For that factory prepares cost sheet estimating costs in different cost heads. Cost heads like Fabric, Trims and Packing materials, Labor cost and Overheads.

At costing stage, supplier only get one sample of the garment and specification of fabric and trims for the reference. For raw material cost suppliers directly take price quote from fabric and trim suppliers. For labor cost it is very important to estimate as near as it will be during actual production.

The scientific method for estimating CM (Cut and make) cost of a garment involves following steps

Determine SAM of the garmentCalculate average line efficiency andDirect labor cost per minute

How to calculate the minute cost of the operator

Formula:

34

Labor cost per minute = (Monthly salary of an operators/Total minutes available in the month)

Suppose,Operator monthly salary is INR 5000.00Total available capacity per month (in minute) = 26 working days*8 hours/day*60=12,480 minutes

So, per minute cost of the direct labor = 5000/12480 = 0.4006 INR

Formula for the projected labor cost per piecesCM cost = (SAM of the garment * Minute cost of the labor)/Line efficiency(%)

If Sewing SAM is 15 minutes and line perform at 50% efficiency then estimated garment make cost = 15*0.40/50% =12 INRAnd Cutting SAM is 2 minutes and cutting room perform at 50% efficiency then estimated cutting cost = 2*0.40/50%=1.6 INR

So, Total estimated CM cost of the garment = (12.00+1.60) = 13.60 INRFollowing above formula easily one can estimate garment CM cost and use it for the product costing.

Line output varies depending on the line efficiency. When a line performs at lower efficiency than standard (100%) line will produce less units in a day compared to what line could make at 100% efficiency. But factory spends same amount of money as salary whether line perform at 100% efficiency or less. So, per unit cost will increase when line performs at lower efficiency

Purpose and Objectives of the project

The purpose of this project is to examine the delay factors and find solution

for the given lines.

The specific objectives arising from the overall purpose are to:

To investigate the factors affecting the throughput time and causes responsible

for delays in production.

35

To investigate and document factors influencing the capacity utilisation

decisions.

Road Map

Study the existing layout and Infrastructure of the two lines.

Study the absenteeism pattern.

Figure out the operator behaviour and existent working trends.

Analyse the result.

Working methodology:

Calculation of existing floor space and its utilization.

Study the allocation of existing human and material resources and its

utilization.

Possible capacity if working at stated efficiency.

Data collection from productivity

Statistical analysis of collected data

Comparison of data and process

Finding the error in the available process and system

Developing step by step method to eliminate these errors.

Delay factors:

Absenteeism

Operator idleness(waiting on work)

Many machines in a line are not in use

Restricted movement area

Attachment not ready

Machine breakdown

Bottleneck

36

No feeding for cutting department

Idleness in presence of work

Poor flow of operation

Uneven distribution of work

Absenteeism

Absenteeism is the most occurring and major cause responsible for the delay in

production and the major cause for absenteeism is the location of the company and the

employment pattern.

The company is located in Guindy and is surrounded by IT companies hence, the

operators tend to move out for comparatively easy jobs and only the operators who

want to earn more stay at the factory and hence they are less punctual as compared to

other factories.

Operator idleness

Operator idleness is persistent due to waiting on work as work is not fed to the

operators working at faster rate whereas some operators are very slow and need

training to cope with the skilled workers.

Unused machines are left idle in the line

Unused machines should be removed or corrected as it consumes time for

transportation and restrictes the movement area.

Restricted movement area

Restricted movement area helps in adding on to the throughput time as more time is

taken in transportation and workers cannot move freely.

Attachment not ready

Machine breakdown

Bottleneck

No feeding for cutting department

37

Idleness in presence of work

Poor flow of operation

Uneven distribution of work

Factor due to shortcoming of management:

Control of operation

Line balancing

Quality control

Batch layout

Maintenance

Delay due to control of operations:

Delay due to absenteeism

Idleness

Poor performance

Rework/alteration

Types of production losses:

Unavoidable losses

Avoidable losses

Unavoidable losses

Machine setup time

Some material handling

Personal fatigue time

Inspection and instruction to operator

Delay allowance like –bobbin change, needle change

Avoidable losses

Response time for system balancing

Reduction in size of bottleneck operation

38

Frequently m/c breakdown

Excessive material handling

Late start, early stops, low speed

Break down maintenance

Work content and delays

Basic work content: Basic work content is irreducible time theoretically required to

produce one unit of output.

Work content means the amount of work “contained in” a given product or process

measured in man hours or machine hours.

Total work content: The total of basic content and excess time due to basic content and

excess time due to defects in design or specification of the products or the time due to

inefficient method of manufacture or operation.

Time due to inefficient method of manufacture or operation.

DELAYS: Delays is the time for which the worker or machine or both are idle due to

shortcoming of management or the workers.

STRENGTHING THE PRODUCTIVITY ACTIVITY CAN HELP IN

REDUCING THE LEAD TIME SIGNIFICANTLY:

Ensuring availability of raw material details and construction details by means

of sample requisition checklist.

Problem at the sampling stage should be recorded.

Industrial engineering department should work out exact requirement of exact

requirement of work aids for critical operation before a new style is loaded on

production floor.

WORK STATION AND DESIGN

The workstation design affects the production rate efficiency and the accuracy with

which an operation can be performed.

39

The work station not only needs space for the workers and the machine there are

plenty of other items which are also needs accommodation.

For the movements of material handling

Easy access to safety stops in case of emergency

Easy access to machine for inspection

Lubrication

Maintenance

Repair

Easy for machine installation

It will easy for the gap between the machines for smooth operation.

Movement of the operator to the centre table would be easy.

TOTAL WORK CONTENT AND DELAY

BASIC WORK CONTENT

Total work cont of product

Design complication of product Lack of standardization Excessive product variety

Work content added

Ineffective planning Lack of raw materials Ineffective batch setting Wrong method inefficient methods Poor production control Poor maintenance

40

DELAY CAUSE, RESPONSIBILITIES AND SUGGETIONS

S.NO OBESERVATION CAUSES RESPONSIBILITIES SUGGESTIONS1. Very high

associated timeUnskilled operators and Less no of helpers

Lesser availability of labour as the industry is located in an urban area.

Attachements and pre sewing operations should be completed before being fed for sewing.

2. Operator idleness Operators indiscipline Ineffective time management,Due to m/c breakdown, bad flow of material.

Supervisor, operator and production team.

No skill matrix and operation bulletin is referred by supervisor.

3. Bottleneck Ineffective line balancing, due to operator performance.

Supervisor and operator

Skilled operators should be placed, operation bulletin and skill matrix should be followed.

4. Uneven distribution of work

Some operators are over burdened while some sit idle

Production planning work distribution should be done evenly on the basis of skill matrix.

5. Machine breakdown

Unplanned maintenance, wrong handling of machine by operators.

Maintenance department, operator

Instructions should be given for Autonomous maintenance.

6. Line balancing 1 Many machines are not working. _

Unused machines should be removed so the movement area will increase and production flow would be better.

41

7. Absenteeism Operator dissatisfaction, work pressure, no motivation, work environments

Factory working condition, supervisor and HR involvement

Motivation should be given to them.

8. Line balancing 2 Unorganized production flow

Production planning Bundle handling time could be reduced.

Average garment production per day Quality is directly prepositional to the production so quality would be

maintained for the better production.

42

OBESERVATION OF A-LINE DURING SHIRT PRODUCTION

IDLE TIME

The average idle time between back centre stitch and pocket batch placket is =

Average thread breakage time= The idle average time between pocket making stitch and pocket double

needle is = Wastage of time during loss of electricity= Material flow delay time due to pass of material= Idleness during presence of work= Absenteeism= Machine breakdown time= Operator idealness =

43

CONCLUSION

For every production delay factors are the major reason for the low production of a garments. Effective planning is important to minimise the delay factors. It should me minimise by the better management, like due to low efficiency and

high absenteeism line balancing get affected and due to improper line

balancing lots of waiting time involved in the line, one operator

low efficiency will be the reason of whole line down production.

44

PROJECT ON:

Analysis on the Company’s Style Changeover Process with respect to SMED Method.

45

Single Minute Exchange of Die (SMED)

Single Minute Exchange of Die (SMED) is one of the lean tools for reducing waste in a manufacturing process. It provides a rapid and efficient way of converting a manufacturing process from running the current product to running the next product. This rapid changeover is essential to reduce production lot sizes and thereby improve flow which is a 'Lean' aim. It is also often referred to as Quick Changeover (QCO). The phrase "single minute" does not mean that all changeovers and start-ups should take only one minute, but that they should take less than 10 minutes (in other words, "single digit minute").

Steps of SMEDTheoretically SMED is defined in four steps:

1. Suppress useless operations2. Work together3. Simplify fittings and fasteners4. Suppress adjustments and trials

Note: These steps are non-sequential.Steps 1 and 2 focus on organizational improvement; steps 3 and 4 focus on

design improvement. SMED methodology can be easily defined in six steps. Practically high quality of analytical ability and devotion is required to follow the steps. It consists of :

Observing the current changeover process

Identifying internal and external activities

Converting activities from internal to external set up

Increasing efficiency of the remaining internal activities

Optimizing the start up time

Increasing efficiency of external activities

There are series of activities which should be performed before changeover to reduce the set up time. All these activities are important and should be performed timely by the responsible person. These activities can be divided in three phases:

Planning Phase: The activities in this phase are essential prerequisite to the activities of preparatory phase.

46

Preparation Phase: The activities in this phase involve completion of external activities.

Operating Phase: The activities in this phase involve execution of changeover.

Planning Phase Line Plan:

Planning of line plan should be done in a manner that loading of upcoming style will occur four days after receiving updated line plan. Loading of styles similar to previous running styles in the respective lines helps in achieving quicker changeover and better productivity.

Operation Bulletin:

Operation Bulletin of upcoming style should be revised on the basis of line plan by IE 3 days prior to style loading. Operation Bulletin developed at sampling room should be crosschecked with the reference sample by IE executive and updated for required changes. After finalizing operation bulletin, Machine layout should be developed by IE Executive.

Mock Sample:

Supervisor should be informed about upcoming style, on the basis of line plan, 3 days prior to style loading, to prepare the mock sample. It is the replica of upcoming style in terms of design details. The purpose of mock sample preparation is to make supervisor acquainted with all the operations. It is beneficial as it helps in early identification of:

Critical operations

Necessary templates.

Method details

Preparation of mock sample should be completed on the same day.

Machine Plan:

Machine Plan preparation is a fundamental planning tool for SMED. It involves internal and external element segregation for new style by comparing operation bulletin of old and new style. It should be prepared 3 days prior to loading.

It is a record of: Operation Type

Machine Type (Segregated as internal/external)

Machine Number

SPI

47

Required Settings

Critical/External Independent Operation

Additional Operator/Helper

Status Check:

Status of Cutting, Outsourcing and Trims should be checked by the supervisor 3 days prior to loading of new style and related issues should be discussed in Internal PPM. It is necessary to check the status of all the inputs in advance, to prevent off standard time arising due to waiting for raw material inline.

Internal Pre Production Meeting:

Internal PPM should be held 2 days prior to style loading, after completion of preliminary activities (OB, Mock sample & Status check). The purpose of Internal PPM is to discuss new style in advance to anticipate problems and their respective measures. The duration of PPM should be less than 10 minutes. Internal Pre Production Meeting is not mandatory for repeat styles. Internal PPM is held in the presence of:

Production Manager

Quality Head

Floor In-charge

Maintenance Head

Supervisor

Preparatory Head

Internal PPM involves discussion on following topics: Mock Sample: Sample prepared by supervisor should be checked by

Quality Head and CTP (Critical to Production) operations should be discussed.

Cutting and Trim status: Cutting and outsourcing status issues should be discussed and Production Manager should be held responsible to get them sorted. Trim status issues should be communicated to merchandising department by Production Manager.

48

Quality Specifications: CTQ (Critical to Quality) operations and PP comments are discussed by Quality Head. Any changes in the specifications from the reference sample should also be conveyed.

Machine, Folder and Attachment Status: Requirement for any new folder, attachment or machine for new style, analyzed during machine plan preparation, is also discussed by IE in the meeting. The order should be placed for the same after crosschecking with maintenance department on the same day.

Template Preparation: QC should discuss about templates required.

Operator Allocation Plan: Based on the machine plan Floor In-charge will decide operator allocation. Only discussion for operator allocation at critical operations is held in the meeting.

A PPM report should be documented in the meeting by Industrial Engineer and concerned issues are solved by the responsible persons. Machine plan is handed over to maintenance department in the Internal PPM. All the concerns regarding upcoming style are discussed and solved in Internal PPM.

Preparation Phase….External Machine Setting:

External machines should be set by the mechanic according to the machine plan. The settings should be complete a day prior to loading of new style.

Machine setting includes: Gauge change

Folder/ Presser Foot change,

Needle addition /removal

SPI adjustment

Programming

The stitch quality should be approved by Quality Checker. After completion of machine setting the machine should be tagged indicating the line and style for which the machine is set.

Preparatory Section Status:

Preparatory Section status should be checked by supervisor one day prior to style loading and problems should be discussed with preparatory head and solved to get timely loading.

49

Template Preparation:

Patterns should be issued by supervisor one day prior to style loading. The number of patterns should be checked and requirements of any other pattern should be communicated to CAD/ Sampling room immediately. The templates should be prepared by supervisor and approved by QC.

Day of Changeover:

Inline LoadingTrims Issue: Trims like threads, zippers labels, buttons etc. should be issued at least 2 hours

before old style ends at first operation. Cut part loading: Cut part loading should also be done at the same time. It should be checked by

feeding helper while loading if all the parts are present. Parts coming from preparatory section should be counted before loading so that any missing parts can be communicated to preparatory section at the earliest. Early inline loading is necessary to reduce the off standard time.

Start of Independent Operations:

Presence of Floor In-charge, Supervisor, QC and Mechanic is necessary during complete changeover.

Manual operations:

Manual operations such as ironing and marking should start before the succeeding operation ends to create enough WIP at the first operation.

External Independent Operations:

External Independent operations, as the name suggests, are independent of the style running in the line, so these can be started before completion of old style. It helps in creating enough WIP and reducing off standard time as all the trials can be done outside the line.

Operating Phase..Start of Dependent Operations:

When the operation of old style ends, the machine settings for new style should be done by the mechanic inline. The operation should be demonstrated by supervisor to operator and the operator should start the operation

Procedure for starting operation of new style:

Internal Machine Setting by Mechanic according to specifications.

Operation Demonstration by Supervisor.

50

First piece by the Quality Check.

Machine setting, if required.

Operation performed by operator.

Quality Check for the complete bundle.

For initial operations bundle check for initial 5-10 bundles should be done by QC in-charge, so that no faulty piece is passed to the next operation. The close attention given to quality at critical operations helps to improve the quality of work performed leading to reduced off standard time. If quality is not consistent even after checking of 10 bundles then the operation should be analyzed by supervisor to identify the root cause of problem and solve.

Style Change Analysis

Style change analysis report should be documented for each style by IE person to analyze the problems faced during the changeover. All the problems faced during style analysis should be discussed in the style review meeting which will be held a day after completion of changeover.

\

51

Road Map:

Observing the current changeover process

(The observation is done with resemblance to SMED Method)

Status Sheet

Dated : 6th july,2012 Style no: 5AC21008Buyer: Buyer Phase type: Planning Phase

Table no : (i)

Serial No Activity Name Yes No1. Size set Sample prepared

2. Operation Bulletin

3. Line plan

4. Machine Plan

5. Status Check(Cutting, Outsourcing and Trims)

6. Outsourcing completed

7. Trims ready

Note: The activities shown are needed to be finished 3 days before the style change

52

Status Sheet

Dated : 7th july,2012 Style no: 5AC21008Buyer: Orvis Phase type: Planning Phase (Activities Pending)

Table no : (ii)

Serial No Activity Name Yes No1. Operational bulletin

2. Line plan

3. Machine plan

Planning Phase(activities to be finished)

Serial No Activity Name Yes No4. Pre-production meeting

5. Revision operation Bulletin

6. Revision Line plan

7. Revision Machine Plan

8. Size set approved

9. Fabric issued for cutting

10. Cutting started


53

Status Sheet

Dated : 8th july,2012 Style no: 5AC21008Buyer: Orvis Phase type: Preparation Phase

Activities Pending

Table no : (iii)

Serial No Activity Name Yes No1. operation Bulletin

2. Line plan

3. Machine Plan

4. Pre-production meeting





9. Cutting started

( Activities To Be Finished On 8th July)

Serial No Activity Name Yes No14. Cutting buffer ready

15. External machine setting

16. Preparatory Section Status as required

17. Template preparation


54

Status Sheet (Scheduled day for the style changeover)

Dated : 9th july,2010 Style no: 5AC21008Buyer: Orvis Activities Pending

Table no : (iv)

Serial No Activity Name Yes No1. Preproduction meeting

2. operation Bulletin

3. Line plan

4. Machine Plan

5. Size set ready







12. Cutting started

13. Cutting buffer ready


15. Template prep.

Note: The activities shown are needed to be finished before the day of style change

55

Since the scheduled styled is not inserted in the line the table for the activities needed to happen is not shownThe activities are shown that are needed to be finished before the style change.Here, it can be clearly noticed that 64.3% activities are still unfinished. But since the required cannot be finished on schedule ,it was decided to insert the another style which was supposed to finish in one day as only 281 pieces were needed to be completed. But 281 pieces cannot be finished with the line of capacity 500 pcs(actual 320 pcs) perday!!So the work extended for one more day extra

Status Sheet (Actual day for the style changeover)Dated : 12th july,2010 Style no: 5AC21008Buyer: Orvis Phase Type : Operational Phase

Table no : (v)

Serial No Activity Name Yes No Remarks1. Line plan Line Planning is

based on experiences 2. Machine Plan Also machine

Planning is based on experiences

3. Size set ready


5. Pre-production meeting




9. Cutting buffer ready


11. Template preperation

Note: The activities shown are needed to be finished before a day of scheduled style change

Serial No Activity Name Yes no Remarks12. Trims issued(2hr

prior)13. Cut part loading

56

The efficiency of the company improved by eliminating wastage of time.

Observation Poor flow of operation and bundle handling.

Reason Unorganized set-up of machines.

Solution If the unused machines are removed or setup at another place, it would help in-

Results Setting up a line ( production system).

Better bundle handling and less wastage, unwanted stains could be prevented.

Would give better visibility to management employes and bring in discipline.

Would reduce wastage of time by atleast an hour or two as it is prevelant in the company.

Ease of flow of bundles as no one needs to carry the sewn parts – just pass on to the next.

Waiting for work and hence, idleness could be abolished to an extent.

57

Observation Very high througput time. ( 15 ladies tops in 8 hours by 6 operators ).

Reasons Slow work by in experienced operators, attachments not ready, enough workers

not available.

Solution If the work shall be divided on the basis of operator skill matrix, then the

production can be increased. For example – if we divide the work content as, unskilled operators make

attachments and fusing ready and then pass it on the experienced operators, who would be given the stitching operations will result in more production.

The operators should be encouraged or tempted to work more to earn more, it will help the company to save its electricity bill by achieving higher targets in less time.

Observation Too much time wastage in thread breakage and needle breakage.

Reason Due to lack of routine maintenance and check up, while some machines are old

and hence more problem occur in old machines.

SolutionAutonomous maintenance

Operators can be given instructions about lubricating and tightening of any loose screws on their own after the end of the day or routine maintainance can be adopted.

Results The machine will run for longer time than now.

The machines will run more efficiently and smoothly, hence, resulting in less thread breakage and needle breakage.

58

/’

59

delay analysis report

Documents

add bundle allowances

multiply cycle time

single minute exchange

work poor flow

operation uneven distribution

found abnormal time

machine plan preparation

preparatory section status