denim garment industry

Upload: roshaero

Post on 10-Feb-2018

232 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    1/98

    REPORT ON PRESITEX ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD

    MASERU,KINGDOM OF LESOTHO

    VISHNU JAYAKUMAR, MT-I.E1

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    2/98

    Year of

    establishment: 2000

    Number of

    employees: 2031 ( August 1st 2011)

    Area In SQM : 222,500

    Sales turnover

    (2009 - 2010): $ 94 M

    ExportsTurnover : $ 84.6 M

    Core Activity : Manufacturer of garments like Jeans, Jacket etc.

    Industries

    Catered: Textile, Garment Industries

    COMPANY PROFILE

    2

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    3/98

    PRODUCT DETAILS

    3

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    4/98

    PROCESS SEQUENCE

    FABRIC STORE

    ACCESSORY

    CUTTING

    PATTERNSEWINGSEWING

    DRY PROCESS

    WASHINGDISPATCH

    LOADING

    CHEMICAL

    PRINTING

    SHIPPING

    4

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    5/98

    DATA COLLECTION

    TheoreticalTakt Time

    Customer LEVIS

    PS No 15093Demand/month 440000 garment (Apprx.)

    Shop Floor Availability

    No of Shifts 1

    Shift Hours 10HrsLunch Break 60Min

    Available time / Shift 540Min / Shift

    Total working days 22days

    Total Available Time / month=

    11880Min712800Sec

    Takt Time =

    Total Available

    Time / Demand

    0.027 min/garment

    FabricStore

    Accessory

    Pattern Cutting SewingDry

    ProcessWashin

    gDispatc

    h

    Operation 4 1 1 1 2.5 2 2 2

    00.5

    1

    1.5

    2

    2.5

    3

    3.5

    4

    4.5

    Days

    Time study

    5

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    6/98

    PROCESS PARAMETERSMachines

    OEE(24 hr)Max output / hr / Mc

    MTBF (minutes)

    Needed Floor Space (sqm)

    Connected load in KW

    Time (seconds)

    process time

    changeover time / pc

    loading timetakt time / pc

    Machine cost (R)

    Saler price

    recovery period (years)

    Labour cost (R)

    personal expense/shift & machineemployee

    employee's qualification (wage level)

    Manufacture

    number of work pc/station

    Employee analysis

    accident rate

    For eachindividualoperations interest rate for recovery period

    electricity tariff in r/Kwh

    shift/day

    working hours/shift

    wage/hour in rs (high qualified)

    wage/hour in rs (normal qualified)

    wage/hour in rs (low qualified)

    recovery period in years for the

    manufacturing system

    work days / year

    floor space cost in r / hr & sqm

    needed floor space for the whole

    manufacturing system in sqm)

    floor of production hall in sqm

    General for all operations

    Process Lead

    time/garment(days)

    Cycle Time / garment (Sec)

    Man-Machine Availability

    Rejections Ratios

    Manual Material handling

    between stations(min/bin)

    Inspection time(sec/bin)

    Inspection frequency(garment)

    Quality Check/hour

    Setup adjustments

    (min/garment)

    No. of operators

    No. of machines

    Mudas-Identification

    Line balancing

    Thread Consumption

    6

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    7/98

    MATERIAL HANDLING EQUIPMENTS

    7

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    8/98

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    9/98

    SL

    No.

    OPERATION

    1 Arrival of container

    2 Uploading to the shop floor

    3 Shrinkage cutting 25 * 25 (10%)

    4 Shade blanket cutting 8 * 8

    5 Inspection 10% from current arrival

    6 After wash of shrinkage- measure

    length and width

    7 After wash of shade changes will

    categories into A , B & C etc.

    8 Request from cutting department for

    fabric and will provide as much

    required.

    DIVISION MANPOWER

    Shrinkage 01

    Inspection 02

    Issuing 02

    Supervisor 01

    Unloading etc 09

    Total 15

    Shop Floor Details

    FABRIC STORE9

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    10/98

    Point system-American Standard-Levis

    1-point : Defect less than 32-point : Defects exceeding 3 up to 6

    3-point : Defect exceeding 6 up to 9

    4-point : Defect exceeding 9

    Point/100 sq.yard = (Total point * 36 * 100) / (sample yards * cuttable roll width).

    If it exceeds 15 the fabric will get rejected.

    Fig: Inspection Machine

    SL

    No.

    Length

    (Yard)

    Width( Yard) Setup Time

    (Min)

    Inspection

    (min)

    Point

    Calculation

    1 138 58.5 5.58 25.34 3

    2 104.9 58.5 7.2 25.04 2.56

    FABRIC STORE10

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    11/98

    General Ideas

    PS NUMBER WASH NAME

    P-11002 Medium

    P-11003 Dark

    P-11006 Relaxed Medium

    P-11007 Journey

    P-11008 Anthem

    P-11009 Rustic

    P-11011 Summit

    Supply chain Management- Ship Routes

    1.India-> Durban -> Lesotho

    2.India -> Cape town -> Lesotho

    3.Pakistan -> Durban -> Lesotho

    Time Average

    Total time to reach a fabric to cutting is 3-4days Minimum. In Emergency 2 days.

    Time for washing in shade blanket is 1 day. Before that 1day for cutting.

    For shrinking washing time is minimum 2hrs and after washing 1hr.

    FABRIC STORE11

    QUALITY ISSUES

    Barre Holes

    Biased Jerk In

    Bow Knots

    Broken End Misdraw

    Course Ends Mispick

    Crack Marks Mote

    Compactor Marks Needle Lines

    Creases Off Pattern

    Double Ends Press Off

    Dye Streaks Read Marks

    Ends Out Rope Marks

    Filling Bands Runs

    Fine Ends Seam Marks

    Finger Mark Slub

    Float Smash

    Fly Soil

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    12/98

    Continuous..Containers details from Import and export department. Details

    including Container

    number, P/O, quantity, ETA, ETD, YDS, Shipping line.

    When arrived, the uploading will do only after customs

    clearance.

    Fabric Consumption- 1.34 yard = (Total yard/Cut Quantity)

    Reports: Stock report and fabric consumption report.

    Types of Fabric: Canvas- Cotton-Dot type, Cordury & TWILL .

    Issuing the fabric to cutting as per cutting plan. They will give

    request for fabric to issue.

    Mostly will cut 7% more than order quantity

    FABRIC STORE12

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    13/98

    PATTERN ROOM

    13

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    14/98

    Process details

    Buyer will give design to the management as per their requirement.

    Through Merchandiser it will transfers to pattern department.

    Pattern maker will calculate the total fabric needed for a garment in yards.

    It always an average of 1.40yards + 2 % allowance.

    Management will decide the overall cost of making a garment and will

    inform to buyer. If the buyer is not ready to accept the rate, there will also a discussion for

    cost reduction and may reach as per buyers standard.

    For sample piece of garment firstly as per shrinkage report, pattern will

    make with GEBER Software.

    PATTERN14

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    15/98

    Continuous..

    Sample will send to buyer for verification. After that there might be small

    changes from buyer will occur. They also will send back to Merchandiser

    and finally to pattern department.

    Pattern department will start pre-production and will make a pattern of

    three or four size garments with two or three pieces and will undergo all

    process including quality check in final.

    Quality department will note and inform if there any changes and problems

    in the final product,

    Always the utilization of fabric should be more than 90%. And at least like

    to reach 93%.

    In pre-production buyer will always give a tolerance on +5 to -5 asexample. So the size issue, because of external issues like shrinkage will

    always between this.

    PATTERN15

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    16/98

    Continuous

    Calculation for yard needed for a Garment

    Example:

    Marker Length as per software = 17.26 yard

    Converting to yards + 2 % allowance = 17+26/36 + 2% = 17.73

    Total number of garments in a marker= 14

    Total yard per piece = 17.73/14= 1.26 yards.

    Fig: Plotted drawing

    PATTERN16

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    17/98

    Continuous

    How to make cut plan.

    Production sheet contents like PS NO, SAP-PO NO, PRODUCT CODE,

    ORDER QUANTITY

    From the Order Quantity cut plan will make taking Insim and Size as major

    calculation point of view. With exact number of quantity of each size like 32,

    34, 36, 38 etc. Marker count and table count will decide. From the fabricshrinkage report and marker allotment total quantity of fabric will

    calculate.

    Design is making with Geber software and will allot in exact yards with

    90% efficiency.

    Always make Order quantity with 0-7% extra, with comparison of stocklevel in previous production.

    Printer needs at least 20-30 minutes to make a printout.

    Currently in pattern department there are 2 + 1 workers

    PATTERN17

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    18/98

    CUTTING

    18

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    19/98

    Production Plan

    From Cut plan department head will make output plan.

    From Marker the quality department will check whether all the pieces of a

    garment are present or not.

    The fabric roll will keep in table with more than 74 layers as per the

    thickness of garment. May be the capacity will reach about 100.

    There are 12 line of cutting table. 6 tables with 19 and 6 tables with 21. After cutting there will be a quality checking for whether there any more

    excess cut is made or any other wrong cut is made. They will mark in error

    piece bundles for rework.

    After that numbering will do in all pieces of bundles. And they will make

    bundles of garments together. There also a quality checks after numbering.

    After all the line feeders in sewing department will take the bundles to

    respective area.

    Current capacity is 20,000 pieces in a day.

    CUTTING19

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    20/98

    Shop floor details

    Manpower: 71 workers + 2 Supervisors excluding qualitydepartment

    Target

    Maximum

    20,000 piecesper day

    SL.

    No

    OPERATION: LAYERING MANPOWER

    1 Keeping cutting machine to the

    place 2

    2 Layering in sequence as per

    style2

    3 Keeping bundle in to the

    position 2

    4 Quality check in each layers 1

    CUTTING20

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    21/98

    PLANNING

    21

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    22/98

    General ideas

    Merchandiser will provide Projection Order to Planning department.

    Planning will do 55 days before the production.

    Always make a buffer of 7 days for shipping.

    Cutting plan will make and will provide to fabric, accessory, pattern and

    cutting department.

    Garment fabric length taken as 1.4 m for a garment and 0.17m for lining. Container size maximum of 30,000 Jeans supply.

    505- Straight fit and 550- Relax Fit

    PLANNING22

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    23/98

    Continuous

    1-2-3 and interaction with import

    Mainly deals with fabric quantity, accessory needed, date of order and

    arrival

    Production Planning

    Production is well planned as per the day of shipping as final designation

    with proper date and allocating works in proper Line. Quantity Control

    Number of garments in each operation is well controlled to get proper

    output with less WIP in each level of production.

    Order Reconciliation

    It will shows clear idea of all sewing quantity , washing quantity, Input to

    dispatch, sewing reject, washing reject, cutting reject , shipping quantity,

    Leftover etc. All management staffs will get a clear view report after Order

    reconciliation.

    PLANNING23

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    24/98

    Departmental capacity

    Example Sewing department:

    Lead time = 21.32 minutes

    Total time availability = 9 * 60

    Number of Manpower = 110

    Machine hour = 110 * 9 * 60 = 59400 minutes

    Target Efficiency = 85%

    Line target in a shift = (59400 * 0.85) / (21.32) = 2368 nos.

    Production per hour = 263 nos.

    Production in 5 lines = 2368 * 5 = 11841 nos.

    PLANNING24

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    25/98

    Basic Production Process

    PROCESS DAYSFabric Store 4

    Trims 1

    P.P Approvals 1

    Pattern 1

    Cutting 1

    Sewing 2.5

    Dry Process 2

    Washing 2

    Dispatch 2

    Total

    15.5

    days

    PLANNING25

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    26/98

    ACCESSORY STORE

    26

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    27/98

    Accessories

    Main label

    Pocket label

    Care Label

    Leather patch

    Zipper

    Fusing

    Threads

    Buttons

    Rivets

    Waist tag

    PKT tags

    Size Sticker

    Poly Bags

    Cartons

    Brown paper

    Double sided Clear type

    Tag pin

    Plastic stables

    ACCESSORY27

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    28/98

    Suppliers

    Sl.No Item Country

    1 Zipper Swaziland

    2 Thread Hongkong

    3 LeatherPatch (RT)

    Mauritius

    4 Leather

    Patch

    (Denizen)

    Hongkong

    Will get Production sheet

    from merchandiser.

    Cutting report from

    department.

    Invoice from supplier.

    Quality and quantity check

    mostly 10 % in all supplies if

    the lot is more. If it is less ofnumber will do 100%. Mostly

    Zipper count will do 100%

    checks in all arrival.

    ACCESSORY28

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    29/98

    Continuous..

    Accessory sheet will make for all checking in each arrival

    Always provides 5-7% allowance in supply to production.

    Provided a person for all supplies in a line. He will name bundle no, size,

    Line no, cut no etc.

    TRIM CARD is made for reference of each style.

    Zipper Size as per size 31- 16, 32-16.5, 33-17, 36-19 From PO will get what type of label needed and prepare with printing

    machine. Model will sent by Levis. 3000 pieces/hr

    ACCESSORY29

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    30/98

    SPARE PARTS

    30

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    31/98

    General Ideas

    Spare parts are categories into different variety and kept inside spare part

    store.

    As per the Mechanic and Head Mechanic request spare parts will get

    issued.

    Some consequent replacing parts have Minimum Inventory Level.

    Company have monthly budget for purchasing spare parts. Asitha is the incharge and having more than five regular suppliers. Some parts are supply

    from Hongkong.

    Issues are Not getting the spare parts from suppliers. So there is issue

    when a part is to be replaced as soon.

    SPARE PARTS31

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    32/98

    Common spare parts..

    Upper knife clamp

    JointLower knife

    Oring

    Worm wheel

    Spring

    Connection

    Needle bar bushing

    Bushing assembly

    Shaft

    Ring

    Connection

    Cover

    Upper looper holder

    assemblyCrank shaft

    Oil distributor complete

    Tube

    Upper knife

    GasketUpper looper holder

    assembly

    Lower looper holder

    assembly

    Lower looper holder

    Block

    Main feed bar

    Lever

    Connection

    Holder

    Looper holder

    Spring

    WopmThread take up

    Thread eyelet

    Thread eyeletThread eyelet

    Thread retiner

    Tread guard

    connection

    Thread guide

    Thread take up

    Thread guide

    Thread guide

    Thread guide

    Thread guide

    Thread guide

    Thread guide[right]

    Needle guideFlat knife

    Needle guard

    SPARE PARTS32

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    33/98

    PR-SEWING

    33

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    34/98

    Shop floor..

    Currently 5 lines in working out of 6.

    Line feeder will feed line.

    Reports to/from PR

    Cut plan report from Cutting department.

    Feeding report.

    Production Planning control report.

    Current Situation

    Total number of workers is 110 + 4 supervisors + 1 Line manager + 9

    Quality checkers + 1 Line feeder + 1 Score lady in each line. Total of 126

    workers in a line.

    126 * 5 = 630 total in a PR.

    Average production Target in a line = 250 pieces/hr. Total of 2340 pieces in

    day

    Target 2340

    pieces/9hour

    PR-SEWING34

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    35/98

    Operation Bulletin

    OPERATION BULLETIN LSS (levis

    signature).xls

    PR-SEWING35

    http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/OPERATION%20BULLETIN%20LSS%20(levis%20signature).xlshttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/OPERATION%20BULLETIN%20LSS%20(levis%20signature).xlshttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/OPERATION%20BULLETIN%20LSS%20(levis%20signature).xlshttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/OPERATION%20BULLETIN%20LSS%20(levis%20signature).xls
  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    36/98

    PG-SEWING

    36

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    37/98

    Shop floor..

    Current three sewing lines out of 6 in working

    Got three bulletins of garment with SMV.

    Line efficiency in each line is studied.

    Target Efficiency = 80%

    Formula:

    Front = (present front manpower * 60 *9) / (front Total SMV * 85%)

    Back = (present back manpower * 60 *9) / (back Total SMV * 85%)

    Assembly = (present Assembly manpower * 60 *9) / (Assembly Total SMV * 85%)

    Line Target= (present line manpower * 60 *9) / (Line Total SMV * 85%)

    Line balancing is observed as per the availability of manpower and work.

    PG-SEWING37

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    38/98

    Bonus calculation

    SL No. Efficiency (%) Workers (R)

    1 80-90 10

    2 91-100 15

    3 101-110 18

    4 111 and above 21

    SL No. Efficiency (%) Supervisor (R) Line Manager (R)

    1 80-90 25 50

    2 91-100 35 60

    3 101-110 45 70

    4 111 and above 55 80

    PG-SEWING38

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    39/98

    Continuous..

    In pre-production, all management will group together for the

    new garment. It includes the rate for all kinds of utilization

    include threads, manpower, electricity, space, machine etc. and

    will go for sample production.

    Product safety is very important in quality check. There should

    not be any harmful material or sharp edge parts are in thegarment. Quality persons have to do thorough check up

    regarding this issue.

    Operation Bulletin is attached.

    PG-SEWING39

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    40/98

    INDUSTRIAL ENGINEER

    40

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    41/98

    General Ideas.. Standard Minute Value: The taken for completing an operation. It also called

    as cycle time. Machine Capacity: The maximum number of products that a machine can

    perform during an hourly based production

    Thread Consumption: Done thread consumption practical study with the

    help of a Jeans (Denizen)

    Production Efficiency in each operation /section

    Total Number of workers in IE Department Bonus calculator-1, IE clerk-1,

    Score ladies-6. Total of 8 workers.

    General Production Issue

    Mainly thread wastage. Loop wastage.

    Time delay between operations.

    Waiting for successive operation.

    Line is not balancedINDUSTRIAL ENGINEER41

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    42/98

    Thread Consumption example

    thread consumption.pdf

    INDUSTRIAL ENGINEER42

    http://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/thread%20consumption.pdfhttp://localhost/var/www/apps/conversion/tmp/scratch_6/thread%20consumption.pdf
  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    43/98

    DRY PROCESS

    43

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    44/98

    Operation

    SORTING MARKING

    FRONT

    MARKING

    BACK

    TURNING 1st

    TRIMMINGTURNING 2nd

    WHISKER

    HAND SAND

    P.P.SPRAY

    WASHING

    BLOWING

    CHEVERON

    GRINDERS

    Target

    Maximum

    10,000 pieces

    per day

    DRY PROCESS44

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    45/98

    Availability

    Currently having 106 machines in working.

    Having 6 grinding machines.

    Having 15 P.P.Spray machines.

    Two blowing machine

    Two Turning machine

    P.P.Spray

    DRY PROCESS

    Whisker pattern Whisker area Chevron Area

    45

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    46/98

    Manpower

    SL.NO. OPERATION MANPOWER TARGET METHOD

    1 Sorting 3 - Checking size/Inseam and grouping

    2 Marking Front 6 150 Vary from size

    3 Marking Back 3 300 Vary from size

    4 Turning 1st 2 - Using Turning machine

    5 Trimming 3 120 Removing excess threads

    6 Blowing 2 - Vacuum machine to remove threads

    7 Turning 2nd 2 - Using Turning machine

    8 Whisker 10 20Using Mould whisker will make

    9 Chevron 7 50 Marking in near knee

    10 Grinding 4 Using grinders

    11 Crinkle - -

    Using resin with Owen in 140 degree

    Celsius for 15 minutes.

    12 Hand sand 58 50

    Using sand paper with hand sand

    machine in horizontal

    13 P.P.Spray 11 45

    Using KMnO4 (300gm/10litre water) for

    making lighter the color.

    Supervisor PPC 1

    Score Lady 3

    Score Lady whisker 2

    Supervisor Whisker 1

    QC Table 6

    Trolley Boy 1

    TOTAL 125

    DRY PROCESS46

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    47/98

    Safety Equipments

    Mask Finger guards

    Ear plug

    Gloves for PP spray

    Overall gown

    Two filter respirator

    Sand Paper Types

    P-60Lighter

    P-240- More delegate

    P-150- standard

    P-400- Sheet paper typeFig: Sand paper

    Inventories

    Role Rubber

    300 pieces tug

    3kg of resin

    4 roll of sandpaper for each day

    DRY PROCESS47

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    48/98

    Quality checking

    DRY PROCESS48

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    49/98

    Time study

    SL.NO. OPERATION TIME

    STUDY

    (sec/piece)

    1 Sorting

    2 Marking Front 20.1

    3 Marking Back 9.8

    4 Turning 6.35 Trimming 35.9

    6 Blowing 12

    7 Whisker Marking 12.55

    8 Whisker 70

    9 Chevron Marking 33.8

    10 Chevron 65

    10 Grinding- Bottom 28.2

    11 Grinding- pocket 45

    12 Hand sand (31 * 32) 153

    13 P.P.Spray 560

    DRY PROCESS49

    Causes for Defects in garment

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    50/98

    Causes for Defects in garment

    Preliminary view Production Rate increase

    New workers recruit

    Not having Job rotation

    Mentality setup

    DRY PROCESS50

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    51/98

    WASHING

    51

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    52/98

    Shop Floor..

    Machine availability

    Sl.No Machine Number Workers

    1 Washing Machine 800 P=25,

    700 P=11

    200 P=1

    2 Hydro Extractors 10+2

    3 Dryer 26

    Total 75 200 (full

    fledge)

    Target 23000

    pieces /24 hr

    WASHING52

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    53/98

    Current State

    Sl.No Operation count Maximum

    Capacity per

    machine

    1 Tumble

    dryer

    40 pieces,80 degree,

    30 minutes maximum

    33 pieces at a time

    2 HydroExtractors

    100 pieces, 30-45minutes

    35kg

    3 Washing

    capacity

    23000-25000

    pieces/24 hour

    147kg per loading

    (40% of 800

    pounds)

    WASHING53

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    54/98

    General Ideas..

    The washing Head will get the Washing plan for each day. Mostly it varies

    from each day to day. The washing plan is as per PPC chart

    Weighing of garment is very important:

    Liquid ratio 1Kg/10 Liter. Chemical and dye depend on weight of garment.

    Consistency

    Ideal loading of machine is 40% of total capacity of machine. (100-120kg)

    WASHING54

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    55/98

    Operation Procedure

    PPC- Involved with operator, weighing and counting of garment.

    Loading- Inside the machine.

    1.Proper way-(creak mark to avoid)

    2.Rotation of machine should be balance in and out and vice versa.

    3.Rotation of drum- 28-30 revolution/minute

    Desizing : sizing denim- starch reductionTest 1: Iodine Test

    Alpha-Amylase (not reacts with fiber, react with starch).

    Temperature- 60 degree. Oscillation with lubricant Reducing friction.

    Tungle of garment will reduce.

    Anti-black strain- 0.25%, 0.1%, 0.5% (if good).

    Anti cleaning- 1%

    Enzyme or stoning process

    1.Enzyme is effective at 35-40 degree Celsius. Ideal effect at 50 degree Celsius.

    2.Concentration 1kg for 100Kg garment i.e. 0.1%.

    WASHING55

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    56/98

    CHEMICAL STORE

    56

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    57/98

    Chemical Names..Sl.No CHEMICAL NAME

    1 Maxiclean

    2 Caustic soda3 Cellex (50)

    4 Indilite (50)

    5 Aqua

    6 Persulphate

    7 Denclean

    8 Denlube

    9 Oxalic acid

    10 Acetic acid

    11 Thiosulphate

    12 X-brite13 Salt

    14 Pretex

    15 P.permaganet

    16 Exclore

    17 Garmensoft

    18 Indisoft

    19 Soda-ash

    20 Bleach (25)

    21 Bleach (45)

    22 Bleach (50)23 Nanotin

    24 Peires cat

    25 Orange

    26 Brown 8rl

    27 Black

    28 Violet

    29 Brown Brr

    30 Brown Gxl

    31 Brown Bl

    32 Indigo

    33 Stone

    1. Chemical utilization will update each day as per the

    consumption in washing department.

    2. Chemicals are mainly from India and south Africa.

    3. New arrivals are checked properly and handled with safety

    precautions.

    57

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    58/98

    DISPATCH

    58

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    59/98

    Operation

    CutLoop

    Trimming Final QC Blowing Rivets

    PressingMeasurement

    Buttons

    CheckingRivets &Buttons

    Pairing

    FoldingCheckShade

    Repair

    WaistTag

    SizeLabel

    ScanPack

    Loading

    TARGET/SHIFT

    10K-21K

    DISPATCH59

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    60/98

    Current Scenario

    C:\Documents and Settings\Vishnu-CGM\Desktop\CAPACITY STUDY

    DISPATCH.xls

    DISPATCH60

    http://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xlshttp://c/Documents%20and%20Settings/Vishnu-CGM/Desktop/CAPACITY%20STUDY%20DISPATCH.xls
  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    61/98

    Continuous Solid pack

    The pack consists of 6 pieces or 20 pieces accordingly as per buyers requirement. Scan Pack

    Check size, check quantity, Scan UVM barcode and enter the P-style and count the garment.

    Loading plan

    From import/Export department Loading Memo will get. It contains container info, Security

    check etc. Arrange as per the memo and seal the container with shipping seal. And will getconfirmation from shipping department.

    Final Audit

    Check the size, waist length, rivet position and button strength.

    General Production Issues

    Repairs

    Accessory lag.

    Rivet problems

    Machine problems

    Human error

    DISPATCH

    Workers are lazy

    Waiting for previous Operator

    Unnecessary Motion

    Improper Feeding

    61

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    62/98

    QUALITY

    62

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    63/98

    General Ideas

    Quality Analysis [QA] - Preventive maintenance, Root

    cause Analysis, Corrective Action plan

    Quality Control [QC] - 100% check on daily basis.

    Rolling QC: Randomly checking in bundles in Sewing line

    Station QC: 100% checking End line QC: Assembled final check

    QUALITY63

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    64/98

    AQL- Acceptable Quality Level

    Acceptable quality Level: In general cases the buyer will

    determine which sampling plan and what AQL to adopt.

    The AQL 1.5 is applied when severe inspection conditions

    are required on high-class expensive items. The AQL 2.5 is

    applied when textiles of normal/good quality are involved.

    There are three types of sampling plans: i.e. single, doubleand multiple sampling plans. Each sampling plan can be

    performed at three levels, i.e. normal, tightened and

    reduced, depending on inspection requirements and

    quality of the products. In the garments industry generallysingle and double normal sampling plans are applied.

    QUALITY64

    4-Point system-American Standard-

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    65/98

    Levis

    1-point : Defect less than 3

    2-point : Defects exceeding 3 up to 6

    3-point : Defect exceeding 6 up to 9

    4-point : Defect exceeding 9

    Point/100 sq.yard = (Total point * 36 * 100) / (sampleyards * cuttable roll width).

    If it exceeds 15 the fabric will get rejected.

    QUALITY65

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    66/98

    Inspection Issues in Fabric store

    Internal PP Meeting

    Arrange with Merchandiser, all department head,

    and factory Manager to review PP sample.

    Conclude to one decision for buyers

    requirement with technical support.

    QUALITY

    Levis Standard

    66

    General points..

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    67/98

    QUALITY

    Final Audit

    Internal audit will take care by QA.

    Carton Marking

    Pocket accuracy

    Shade checking

    Measurement

    Product Safety

    Check all safety levels in garments. Especially metallic safety. Check needle presence. And

    rivet and button strength. Having Metal detector and pull test machine.

    Fig 1:Metal Detector Fig 2: Pull Test Machine

    67

    General points..

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    68/98

    REJECT STORE

    68

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    69/98

    General points..

    All garments that all categories as not as per buyers

    requirement will taken to reject store.

    In reject store separation of garment will take place.

    It will divide into A, B, C, and D categories.

    69 REJECT STORE

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    70/98

    General points..

    70 REJECT STORE

    Category Specification

    A

    Good Garments of leftoverGood Garments of overrun

    Good Garments from PP Sample with non conformity,

    washing , construction or measurement

    Good Garments without of shade band

    Good garments with wrong pocket placements

    B

    Shading within the garment

    Fabric flaws

    Small stains within 1" diameter area and not more than 3

    points

    Sewing defects mainly at waist band and HEM area

    C Small hole noticeable at hemming or waistband, big stains

    DDamage but still wearable (fix)

    Big Holes and Bursting but still wearable (fix)

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    71/98

    COMPLIANCE AND SAFETY

    71

    Safet Equipment List

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    72/98

    Safety Equipment List

    Having Safety Marking with differentcolours in shop floor.

    Fire and safety training in each 3

    months.

    Safety Inspection in regular time. Drinking water is allotted in regular

    places by the government

    COMPLIANCE AND SAFETY

    Equipment Replacement

    Fire Extinguisher 6 months

    Safety goggles 12 months

    Safety gloves

    Apron 12 Months

    Safety Shoes

    Winter Jacket

    Emergency Alarm

    Safety Mask 1 Month

    Ear Muffs 12 months

    Safety Gown

    72

    Snaps

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    73/98

    Snaps

    COMPLIANCE AND SAFETY73

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    74/98

    PERSONAL WAGES

    74

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    75/98

    General Ideas..

    Total of 9hour in a day. 45hr/week. 195hr/month.

    Regular basic wage is R 3.99/hr. R 1.25/hr for overtime. DDPI- Directorate of dispute Prevention and Resolution will discuss about

    Dismissal problems.

    After three warning labour will call for DDPI for further questioning with an

    representative called as shop steward.

    DDPI will send the labour to Labour Court for final decision. Union FAWU, UNITE.

    Contract Casuals: 3months, 2months, 1month etc.

    Probation 3 months.

    Benefits: Bonus + Sick leave-12 days/ year with salary. If more than 12days half the

    salary will get cut. Clinic 3 days. Personal leave end of year 12 days paid. Maternityleave-2 weeks.

    Direct Dismissal: Stealing, Assault, Fraud, Damaging Company property, Fighting.

    PERSONAL WAGES75

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    76/98

    Continuous..

    Direct Dismissal: Stealing, Assault, Fraud, Damaging Company property, Fighting.

    Notice Period: 1 week for 6month experience. 2 weeks for above 6 months, 1month for 1 year and above.

    Termination for poor performance: 1 month notice period.

    In public holiday if the worker is present for a work means double the payment.

    Education Leave only when the company is allowed.

    Minimum age limit is 18.

    Accident Insurance as per workmens Compensation Act.

    Experience Rand

    Unskilled 3.99

    Trained 4.3

    Exp >1 4.76

    PERSONAL WAGES76

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    77/98

    WAGES

    77

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    78/98

    General Procedures..

    WAGES

    Contract Period: Daily, Weekly, Biweekly, and Monthly.

    Temporary contract for 3 months. Casual labour will get permanent ifshe/he working more than three months in the company. Passport is

    necessary to sign the contract.

    After three month contract the same person can come to company as a

    casual labour after a period of one month.

    ID cards will provide in the evening of date Joined with photo in

    lamination.

    Contract Colour of paper

    1 year white

    2 year Blue

    3 year Yellow

    Contract Wage (R)

    Daily 4.55

    Weekly 4.31

    Biweekly 4.31

    Monthly 3.99

    78

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    79/98

    Wages per day

    Usual Days (R 3.99 as rate)

    Time Rate(Rand)/hour Total7:00- 17:00 9*3.99 35.91

    17.00-19:00 2*3.99*1.25 9.975

    19:00-21:00 2*3.99*1.31 10.4538

    Night shift

    19:00-5:00 9*2.06*3.99 73.9746

    Saturday and Sunday

    7:00-15:00 7*2*3.99 55.86

    WAGES79

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    80/98

    Discharge

    3 days continuous absent:- Immediate Termination.

    Greater than 1 year experience:- 90hr severance.

    Greater than 6 month:- 12 days leave

    Increment

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    81/98

    81

    IMPORT

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    82/98

    General Process

    Collect documents from suppliers: Invoice, Packing List, Bill of lading/telex,

    Country of Origin, Beneficiary etc. Send to clearing Agent to process any duties and entry (Bill of Entry)

    Follow up with clearing agent or shipping Line about the arrival of

    containers.

    Update the incoming document you have received,

    Follow up any outstanding documents from suppliers

    Follow up payment if any (factory or shipping Line)

    When entry stamped, payment for duties (if any) is done push for the

    released of container to avoid penalty.

    When Container at factory, ask for inspection before offloading container,offload fast to avoid penalty.

    82 IMPORT

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    83/98

    Continuous..

    Lead Time varies from 14-25 days + or

    By Road the maximum allowance is 30 tones in container.

    By Train the maximum allowance is 36 tones, but it takes more time to

    reach.

    CBM, the capacity for a container will calculate.

    Two types of Package: 1] FOB: - Free on Board 2] CIF: - Cost Insurance &Freight.

    FOB will give the permission to supplier to take care the container till

    reaching the designation port.

    In CIF the company is responsible for handling Container from the Import

    port to designation.

    * *make follow up call from shipping line or clearing agent about the status of the vessel,documents and the container to avoid late charges for submitting documents or any charges.

    83 IMPORT

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    84/98

    84

    IMPORT-ACCESSORY LIST

    ITEM DESCRIPTION DUTY (%) VAT 14%A4 Copy pare 15 14

    White Board Marker 15 14

    Stapler Pin 20 14

    Paper Clips 20 14

    File Fastener 20 14

    Permanent Marker 15 14

    Pen 15 14

    Pencil 20 14

    Highlighter 15 14Pencil Sharpener 15 14

    Pencil Rubber Eraser 15 14

    Correction fluid FREE 14

    Arch & Regina File 15 14

    Glue Stick FREE 14

    Computer Continuous Paper 15 14

    Tailor & White Long Chalk FREE 14

    White Pencil 20 14

    Nylon Rope 22 14

    Face Mask 20 14

    Transmission Belt 15 14

    Gloves Textile 30 14

    Gloves Rubber 20 14

    Safety Shoes 30 14

    Over all out fit 40 14

    Ribbon & Toners 15 14

    Printing Ink FREE 14

    Accessory List for Import

    IMPORT

    h

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    85/98

    Charges..

    85 IMPORT

    CHARGE TYPE

    BAF Bunker Adjustment Factor

    BAS Basic Ocean Freight

    CCL Container Cleaning

    CTO Container terminal Order

    DDF Documentation Fee-Designation

    DHC Handling Charge- Designation

    EMF Equipment Management Fee

    ERS Emergency Risk SurchargeEXP Export Service charge

    FFC Freight Forwarder Commission

    IHI Inland Haulage Import

    IMP Import Service charge

    ODF Documentation fee-Origin

    OHC Handling charge-Origin

    PAE Port additional- Export

    PIO Pick-up/Drop off

    POS Equipment Positioning Surcharge

    PSE Port Security Charge-Export

    PSS Peak Season Surcharge

    SER Carrier Security Charge

    TCE Temporary Customs Export

    C i

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    86/98

    Continuous..

    86 IMPORT

    INLAND/LOCAL CHARGES (RAND)

    ROAD 20 40

    DOCUMENTAION 250 250

    INLAND HAULAGE 13669 16295

    CONTAINER CLEANING 75 100

    CTO FEE 120 120

    HANDLING CHARGE 1073 1586

    IMPORT SERVICE CHARGE 300 450

    PICK UP/DROP OFF 1500 3300

    TOTAL CHARGES 16987 22101

    Contract No: 530298

    SAFMARINEORGIN CHARGES (USD $)

    INDIA

    Durban Port Elizabeth

    20 40 20 40

    OCEAN FREIGHT 275 575 275 575

    BAF 510 1020 510 1020

    EMERGENCY RISK CHARGE 90 180 90 180

    SECURITY CHARGE 9 9 9 9

    TOTAL CHARGES 884 1784 884 1784

    Ch

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    87/98

    Charges..

    87

    COST PER COUNTRY (US $) TRAVEL (Rand)

    INDIA PAKISTAN HONG KONG YANITAN DALIAN SHANGHAI QINGDAO ROAD RAIL

    20 40 20 40 20 40 20 40 20 40 20 40 20 40 20 40 20 40

    SAFMARINE 884 1784 909 1809 1074 2139 1074 2139 1124 2239 1074 2139 1124 2239 16987 22101 9561 18424

    MAERSK 859 1709 904 1779 1044 2069 949 1889 1039 2069 924 1839 1146 2281 16987 22101 8676 14449

    MOL 1596 3286 1334 2662 1521 3036 1471 2936 1421 2853 1471 2936 1471 2936 14123 15766 11048 19688

    IMPORT

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    88/98

    88

    EXPORT

    G l P

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    89/98

    General Process

    Booking Information like PO, Order List etc.

    Arrange Booking by SAEL Forwarder.

    Will get Confirmation from Shipping Department.

    Check VISA, Certificate of Origin and Commercial

    Document. Always contact Merchandiser for all updates.

    Currently using FOB for export activities

    89 EXPORT

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    90/98

    90

    MAINTENANCE

    B il

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    91/98

    Boiler Operating Procedure

    Basic Ideas Currently have two boilers

    91 MAINTENACE

    Sl.No. PARAMETERS

    1 Steam Pressure

    2 Water Flow

    3 Feed pump

    4 CO2

    5 Gas Exit Temp

    6 Coal Bed Depth

    7 Stoker Speed

    8 Steam Flow

    9 Fuel Trim

    10 ID Fan control

    11 Blow down secs

    12 Gauge glasses blow down

    13 Mobrey blow down

    14 Soot blowes

    15 Fuel ash LR

    16 Chem dosing tank

    JOHN THOMPSON AFRICA

    Design Gauge Pressure 1034 kPa

    Design Temperature 250 C

    Shop Test Pressure 1551 kPa

    Site Test Pressure 1293 kPa

    Max.Permissible Operating Pressure 1034 kPa

    Operating Pressure 960 kPa

    Operating Temperature 183 C

    Capacity (Flooded) 34 m3

    Fig: Boiler

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    92/98

    92

    WATER TREATMENT

    Process Diagram

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    93/98

    Process Diagram

    GRIT BASIN:

    3 COMPARTMENTS

    NEUTRALIZATION

    BASIN 1

    DAF SYSTEM

    BIO TREATMENT

    BASIN: 5

    NEUTRALIZATION

    BASIN 2

    COAGULATIONBASIN

    SEDIMENTATION

    BASIN

    A.C.FILTER

    3 CYLINDERSEFFLUENT BASIN

    WASTE WATER

    RECYCLED WATER

    PAC NaOHPOLYMER AUTO

    MIXING

    MACHINE

    THICKENIN

    G

    SLUDGE

    DEWATERING

    MACHINE

    MUD

    EQUALIZATION

    BASIN

    150 cub.m/ h

    WATER TREATMENT

    O ti P d

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    94/98

    Operation Procedure

    Grit Basin: will collect all water from Presitex and CGM.

    Having filters in each compartments and separate thread and stone. Equalization base will collect the water from Grit Basin and pump the

    water into the neutralization Basin 1.

    In Neutralization Basin 1 having a supply of NaOH, Poly Aluminium

    chloride, Polymer negative.

    From Basin 1 water will supply to DAF system. In DAF system the Indigo

    dye will get separated much more using collector.

    Collected dye will sent to sludge dewatering machine for further squeezing.

    Water from DAF system will pass to Bio Treatment process.

    In Bio Treatment Process Bacteria will act to purify the water with enoughquantity of Oxygen. Currently having a five chamber of 2500 cubic meter

    water storing.

    94 WATER TREATMENT

    C ti

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    95/98

    Continuous..

    In one final compartment there will be purification

    process. Here also there is a mixing of polymer negativeis doing for indigo dye filtering.

    Through pumps water is then passed to Sedimentation

    tank. Here continuous 3 hour sedimentation will do.

    Impurities will sediment in down and will remove.

    After sedimentation filtering of water will take place in

    three cylinders with coconut and coal. And the purified

    water is sent back to each department for usage.

    95 WATER TREATMENT

    Snaps

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    96/98

    Snaps..

    96 WATER TREATMENT

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    97/98

    97

    MERCHANDISING

  • 7/22/2019 Denim Garment Industry

    98/98