discovering romanesque art in catalonia filetaüll. sant climent apostles antependium (from the...

Taüll. Sant Climent

Apostles antependium (from the Urgell diocese). MNAC

Discovering Romanesque art in Catalonia

Hand of God, Sant Climent de Taüll (1123). MNAC

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Catalonia is and always has been receptiveto the various art styles that have succeededone another in Europe. Two were perhaps morethoroughly assimilated than others: Roma-nesque art, which emerged while Catalonia’shistorical personality was taking shape, andModernisme (Art Nouveau style) born in theheyday of the Renaixença when Catalonia wasrecovering the sense of her own identity.

The birth and expansion of Romanesqueart took place at a time when the sovereigntyof the Counts of Barcelona had been recog-nized by the other Catalan counts. The unifi-cation of the country coincided with two otherimportant events. One was the de facto sev-ering of feudal ties with the French kings whohad succeeded the last Carolingians. Theother was the expedition to Córdoba (1010)whereby the threat of an invasion was finallyaverted and the small realms of Muslimkinglets, into which the caliphate had beensplit up, came under the protection of theCatalan counts (1031). It was an age of pros-perity and euphoria: the great noble familieswere strengthening their position, the hierar-chy of feudal society was being set up, goldcoins were beginning to circulate and thepopulation was growing fast.

All these events occurred in Old Catalonia,which lay to the north of the traditional route toAragon through the Anoia, Segarra and Urgell“comarques” (natural regions). The frontier wasslowly pushed further back until by 1148-49 theChristian conquest of New Catalonia was com-plete. The very gradual nature of the conquest ex-plains why Romanesque buildings are very abun-dant in the Pyrenean mountains and foothills,more widely scattered in the central lowlands, andfew and far between in southern Catalonia.

Catalonia has some 1,900 Romanesquechurches, about 200 castles and fortified hous-es with Romanesque features, a few partiallyrenovated manor houses and city mansions,some unusual buildings like the Jewish mikwàs,as well as bridges, mills and other buildingswhich bring the total to well over 2,000.

To this architectural heritage must be added themural paintings and illuminated manuscripts,sculptures, altar decorations, and other objectswhich have been preserved either in churches orin the big museums.

Not everything that has come down to usfrom the Romanesque period is of equal valueand interest. Some of the small buildings are ofimportance primarily as tokens of a bygoneage. It is a fact, nonetheless, that the CatalanRomanesque heritage as a whole ranks amongthe richest and most plentiful in Europe.

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Romanesque art was the first great style tobe shared by the whole of western Europe. Itappeared during the Middle Ages, at the end ofthe first millennium, as the Carolingian Empirewas breaking up and the various European na-tionalities were taking shape. Propagated byconquests, religious orders and pilgrimages, itquickly swept from Dalmatia to the British Islesand from northern Germany to the border be-tween Christendom and the Muslim-occupiedpart of the Iberian peninsula.

Romanesque art, though a blend of the buildingtraditions of the Roman Empire and of experi-ments made during the Carolingian period and atthe beginning of the Holy Roman Empire, wasnonetheless an original and vigorous style thatlasted until well into the 13th C. Its solid and soberlines characterize everything built at the time(churches and monasteries, castles, countryhouses and bridges) and it yielded magnificent re-sults in the fields of painting, sculpture, gold andsilverware, miniatures and furniture.

The “world of Romanesque art”, moreover,was closely bound up with the first attempts atpopular poetry, the birth of western philosophyand theology, speculative theory and legalstudies, and the formation and consolidationof the romance languages, which were born ofthe breakdown of vulgar Latin.

The term Romanesque art was invented in1818 by the French architect Adrien deGerville, though no systematic research tookplace until the end of the 19th C. In Cataloniathe first outline study of Catalan Romanesqueart, which is still valid today, was conducted in1909-1918 by a team headed by Josep Puig iCadafalch.

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Following attempts throughout the 10th C. tobuild churches from stone, mortar and lime and tocover the main body of the building with vaultedroofs (pre-Romanesque style), teams of Lombardmaster builders spread rapidly throughoutEurope. This brought about the appearance of themore ambitious but still severe and utilitarianbuildings of early Romanesque art, with their mas-sive masonry (needed to uphold the barrel vault),their semicircular apses and walls with arcaturesand pilaster-strips (so-called Lombard bands),their aisles separated by pillars joined together bythe characteristic semicircular arches that werealso used for doorways and windows.

From the end of the 11th century, schools ofstonemasons brought sculpture into buildingsand cloisters (using motifs inspired by orien-tal fabrics, illuminated Bibles, bestiaries andscenes from everyday life) and at the sametime architecture became more complex (sec-ond Romanesque art). Small country churchescontinued to be built with a single nave, east-ward-facing apse, doorway on the south sideand wall belfry, but religious buildings of mon-umental proportions also began to appearwith three to five aisles, transepts, severalapses, ambulatory, lantern and slender belltower, archivolts around the doorway, tympa-nums and columns with lavishly decoratedcapitals.

Local schools of architecture sprang up,each with a well-defined style that was ornateor austere according to whether the influenceof Cluny or Cîteaux was predominant. Otherstyles prefiguring early Gothic followed. The13th C. saw a final revival of Catalan Roma-nesque art when decorations of Arab originwere introduced by the School of Lleida.

TThhee ssuuggggeesstteedd rroouutteessIn view of the number of monuments and the

size of this publication, we have been forced tomake difficult choices. We suggest six mainroutes that will enable visitors to discover asmall selection of samples of Catalan Roma-nesque art. These routes follow the main linesof communication leading from north to south.Alternative routes are proposed so that thosewith time and inclination may undertake side-trips, skip part of the main route, or combineone route with another.

Three of the routes begin at the Frenchfrontier with the Roussillon (a region that hashistorical links with Catalonia). From here visi-tors can also discover the rich Romanesqueheritage of this region. Two other routes af-ford the opportunity to include the Roma-nesque art of Andorra, Gascony or the areaslying along the Aragonese border to the westthat were also once linked to Catalonia. Rou-te 3 through Penedès and New Catalonia is ofinterest in discovering the art styles of theCistercian order and the Knights Templar andthe area that came under the influence of theSchool of Lleida.

It is worth pointing out that only a few mon-uments have fixed visiting hours. Countrychurches are often closed for security rea-sons when no service is taking place and thekey is kept at the town hall or some house inthe village. Information on accommodationand restaurants, as well as help in makingyour journey more pleasant and satisfying,may be obtained from any Tourist InformationOffice.

It is our hope that these suggestions may beof assistance to you in discovering the greattreasures of Catalan Romanesque art.

Romanic ingles (esmenat 6/2008) 2/7/08 12:10 Página 1

La Tossa de Montbui. Santa Maria

2

C-1412

N-260

C-14

C-26

C-14

C-1412a

C-14

C-1412

a

a

a

Hand of Goliath,

Santa Maria de Taüll

(1123). MNAC

Sant Serni de Tavèrnoles Cervera. Sant Pere Gros

Agramunt. Doorway, Santa Maria

RRoouuttee 11::

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We take the N-145 from the frontier with Andorra down the Valira river valleyand soon come to Sant Serni de Tavèrnoles, which stands on the oppositebank. Slightly further on is the ancient and dynamic capital of the comarca of AltUrgell, La Seu d’Urgell, lying in the midst of a wide, green plain surrounded bymountains, where the Segre and Valira rivers meet. Besides visiting the cathe-dral of Santa Maria and the church of Sant Pere i Sant Miquel, with its magnifi-cent museum, visitors should stroll beneath the archways of the Main Street(Carrer Major) or under the trees on the Promenade (Passeig) to savour the live-ly atmosphere that is somehow both rural and cosmopolitan.

Just as we leave La Seu by the Puigcerdà road, we come to a mountain trackwhich leads up to Estamariu, with its church of Sant Vicenç currently being re-stored, and then go on to Bescaran, from where the solitary bell tower of theformer church of Sant Martí can be seen on the opposite slope.

Returning to La Seu, we continue down the Segre valley along the C-14. Wesoon reach a turning to the right towards Castellbò, where the old collegiatechurch of Santa Maria stands. The gentle scenery, with bright, luxuriant greeneryon the river banks, suddenly changes as the road enters the narrow gorge ofTresponts. River and road wind painstakingly along between towering rock faceswhile down below one can still see the remains of the old mule track hewn out ofthe rocks and of the bridges that gave the gorge its name (“three bridges”).

Beyond the ravine is Organyà, nestling at the foot of the Santa Fe hill. Thechurch of Santa Maria is worth a visit and a small circular building contains afacsimile of the famous Organyà Sermons considered to be the most ancientdocument written in Catalan (late 12th C.). The original is kept in the Bibliotecade Catalunya. Further on, near the straight rows of houses on the hilltop at Collde Nargó, we turn onto the spectacular mountain road to Tremp. We sooncome to the church of Sant Climent (note the sloping base walls of the bell tow-er). Further on (km 26.4) a track leads down to the church of Sant Romà in theunusual and picturesque setting of Valldarques.

The C-14 continues down the Segre amid towering mountains and alongsidethe wide Oliana reservoir. As we emerge from a tunnel the church of Castell-lle-bre comes into view, perched on a rock. It can be reached by a mountain trackthat branches off the road to Peramola. On the opposite bank of the Segre, 3 kmbefore the important town of Oliana, the ruined church of Oliana castle standson rising ground.

1 km before Ponts, the C-1412 to in Tremp turns off across the river towardsthe nearby monastery of Gualter and goes on towards La Serra de Rialb toreach Palau de Rialb, a fine example of Romanesque art situated in the bor-ough of La Baronia de Rialb which possesses 24 tiny churches from the sameperiod. On the outskirts of Ponts the restored church of Sant Pere stands on ahill in a clearly visible and easily accessible spot. Our route continues towardsArtesa de Segre, where we take the C-14 across flat arable land to Agramunt.

In Agramunt one can admire the splendid Romanesque doorway of SantaMaria, and those with a sweet tooth can enjoy the famous “torrons” (nougat)and “xocolata a la pedra” (chocolate). After passing the handsome village crossat Ossó de Sió, we reach a side road to Les Pallargues which leads to the littlechurch of Pelagalls. Beyond the great, fortified mansions of L’Aranyó andMontcortés, we come to Cervera, the capital of Segarra. Among the manypoints of interest are Sant Pere Gros, on the outskirts, the archpriest’s church ofSanta Maria, the Main Street (Carrer Major), the Town Hall (Casa de la Ciutat),the magnificent neoclassical building of the former University, the town wallsand the museums of art and ethnology.

It is worth making a short detour to Tàrrega, the lively capital of the comarcaof Urgell, which lies on the N-II towards Lleida. Among several historic buildingsis the palace of Els Marquesos de la Floresta, an interesting example ofRomanesque civil art.

We now follow the N-II towards Barcelona as far as the La Panadella pass,from whence a side road to the right brings us to Santa Coloma de Queralt. Onthe edge of this picturesque village of both historical and artistic interest standsthe church of Santa Maria de Bell-lloc. Continuing along the road to Vilafrancadel Penedès towards the south-east we climb through hilly country to LaLlacuna where there is a handsome square with archways. From here a foresttrack leads to the castle and church of Vilademàger, perched on a long rockand commanding a good view.

Retracing our steps to the Miralles intersection, we proceed towardsIgualada along the C-37 across a peaceful landscape of cornfields and thickets.Just before Santa Margarida de Montbui, an asphalted road goes up to LaTossa de Montbui. From here there is an excellent view over the busy town ofIgualada, the capital of Anoia, and the surrounding countryside where theRomanesque church stands alongside the ruins of the old castle.

suggested route

mountain tracks

Romanesque buildings

Tourist Offices

views


MMaaiinn hhiissttoorriicc bbuuiillddiinnggss

Agramunt. Parish church of SantaMaria (11-13th C.): 3 aisles with 3 apses, very fine door, magnificentexample of School of Lleida stylewith richly decorated archivolts(rows of saints and virgins), carvedcapitals and high relief on the lintel(Virgin, Annunciation and Epiphany),commissioned in 1283 by localweavers.

Bescaran. Isolated bell tower of theold parish church of Sant Martí: (11-12th C.), handsome 6-storey belltower with Lombard decoration andtwo light windows. (Borough: LesValls de la Valira.)

Castellbò. Former collegiate churchof Santa Maria (13th C.): Roma-nesque-Gothic transition style, doorwith pointed arch and archivolts,plain leaves on the capitals andRomanesque ironwork. (Borough:Montferrer i Castellbò.)

Castell-llebre. Former parish church,now shrine, of La Mare de Déu: naveand apse, fine 2-storey bell tower withtwo light windows. Remains of the oldcastle. (Borough: Peramola.)

Cervera. Interesting 11th C. churchof Sant Pere Gros on the outskirts, anunusual circular building with a domeand small external apse, once aBenedictine priory. In the town, arch-priest’s church of Santa Maria, Gothicbut with earlier features including thesouth door of the ancient church ofSant Martí (tympanum showing thesaint giving part of his cape to a poorman).

Coll de Nargó. Former parish churchof Sant Climent de Nargó (11th C.),with nave and apse from the Lombardperiod, adjacent to an exceptionallyfine pre-Romanesque bell tower withsloping walls at the base and win-dows with horseshoe arches (the topstorey is later). Within the municipalboundaries, church of Sant Romà deValldarques (12th C.), nave and apse,fine bell tower with Lombard decora-tion and round windows.

Estamariu. Former parish church ofSant Vicenç (11th C.): currently beingrestored. Two of the 3 aisles and thecentral apse with Lombard decora-tion still stand.

Gualter. Former Benedictine monas-tery of Santa Maria (12-13th C.). Ofthe 3-aisle church (blown up in 1939at end of the Civil War) only rein-forced ruins remain: part of the walls,part of the cloister and one apse.(Borough: La Baronia de Rialb.)

Oliana. Chapel of Sant Andreu, origi-nally belonging to Oliana castle, sub-sequently parish church (11th C., en-

larged 12th C.): nave and apse withcharacteristic Lombard features.

Organyà. Former priory and colle-giate church of Santa Maria (12th C.),modified: 3 aisles, square bell tower,remarkable door with archivolts anddecorated with balls.

Palau de Rialb. Parish church ofSanta Maria (11-12th C.): 3 aisles,apse with characteristic Lombarddecoration. (Borough: La Baronia deRialb.)

Pelagalls. Parish church of SantEsteve (consecrated 1180, modi-fied): nave, remarkable door, re-cently restored, with archivolts anddecorated capitals (plant and ani-mal motifs) and earlier tympanumwith Christ in Majesty and two an-gels. (Borough: Els Plans de Sió.)

Ponts. Handsome church of the for-mer Augustinian canonry of SantPere (12th C.): nave with 3 cross-shaped apses decorated on the out-side in Lombard style, octagonallantern. Recently restored.

Sant Serni de Tavèrnoles. FormerBenedictine abbey, subsequentlyAnserall parish church (church con-secrated 1040). The three aisles aregone but the following have survived:large chevet (largely restored in 1971-1974) with main apse divided into 3 small apses (the middle one is tre-

foil plan inside), transept with anapse at either end. Antependium atthe MNAC and some capitals in theUSA. (Borough: Les Valls de la Valira.)

Santa Coloma de Queralt. Churchof former Mercedarian convent ofSanta Maria de Bell-lloc (13th C.) out-side the town: Romanesque Gothictransition style, fine doorway by theSchool of Lleida with archivolts,columns and decorated capitals,tympanum with Marian scenes.Important Gothic tomb inside.

La Seu d’Urgell. City that grew uparound the medieval diocese ofUrgell. In the heart of the old quarter,magnificent cathedral of Santa Maria(12th C.), which replaced two earliercathedrals and constitutes the mostoutstanding example of Italian-styleRomanesque architecture in Catalo-nia (the master builder in 1175, Ra-mon Llombard, was of Italian origin):basilican plan with 3 aisles, very longtransept with 5 apses (4 interior aps-es, the middle one outward with anelegant upper gallery); 3 doors on thewest side, one each (13th C. andmore ornate) on the north and southsides; 2 octagonal towers flankingthe façade which is adorned with ar-catures and bands of Lombard deco-ration and two lions over the maindoor. A pair of unfinished towers ateither end of the transept; decoratedwindows, rose window, gracefulsquare bell tower above the façade,cloister, well restored, with a Roma-nesque gallery on three sides andcapitals showing influence of Rous-sillon sculptors; 13th C. polychromewooden statue of the Virgin (Mare deDéu d’Andorra). Restored, in 1918,by Puig i Cadafalch and again in1955-74. Backing onto the cloister,church of Sant Pere i Sant Miquel(11th. C.), part of the buildings put upby Saint Ermengol in 1035: nave,transept and three apses withLombard decoration. Important Dio-cesan museum in the annex, recentlyenlarged.

Tàrrega. Façade of the 13th C.Palace of Els Marquesos de la Flo-resta, fine example of Romanesquecivil architecture in the style of thePaeria in Lleida.

La Tossa de Montbui. Interestingearly medieval church of Santa Maria,built as a parish church alongsideMontbui Castle (10th C.). Part of itstill stands: 3 pre-Romanesque aisles(10th C.) with 6 bays of low cylindricalpillars, plain capitals and horseshoearches holding up the barrel vault.11th C. chancel and 3 Romanesqueapses with characteristic Lombardfeatures added by Bishop Oliba.Recently restored. (Borough: SantaMargarida de Montbui.)

Vilademàger. Former parish churchof Sant Pere de Màger or de Vila-demàger. In the precinct of thecastle (12th C.). Raised nave, finedoorway with double archivolts.(Borough: La Llacuna.)

3

La Seu d’Urgell. Cathedral

Beatus of La Seu d’Urgell (MDU)

Ponts. Sant Pere Coll de Nargó. Sant Climent


4

C-1

3

N-260

N-2

60

C-1

3

C-26

C-13

N-IIa

C-13

C-28

Hand of the Virgin, antependium,

Avià (Berguedà, circa 1200).

MNAC

Abella de la Conca

RRoouuttee 22::

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No visitor should miss the key Romanesque monuments of the Val d’Aran. Onthe way from the shrine of Cap d’Aran in Tredòs at the foot of the Pla de Beretand La Bonaigua, one can stop at the parish church of Salardú and the nearbyhamlet of Unha, which overlooks the green valley as far as the distant glaciers ofMount Aneto. Proceeding down the Garonne, we come to Santa Maria d’Artiesrising against the spectacular background of the Montardo d’Aran. Further onlies Escunhau, with its unusual doorway, the church of Vielha, which containsremarkable works of art and, still further downstream, the church of Bossòst,close to the French border.

One of the proposed routes leaves the Val d’Aran via the Vielha tunnel andfollows the course of the Noguera Ribagorçana through Upper Ribagorça. Justbefore El Pont de Suert —an important town with an interesting modernchurch— is a road to the left which runs for 25 km or so through the Vall de Boí.In this valley, close to the National Park of Aigüestortes and lake Sant Maurici,are possibly the most important set of Pyrenean Romanesque buildings in thewhole of Catalonia, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO (2000): thechurches of Cóll, Barruera, Durro, Boí, Erill la Vall, Cardet and the two churchesat Taüll, with their slender bell towers and their graceful architecture, all blend-ing harmoniously into the magnificent high mountain scenery.

At El Pont de Suert we leave the N-230 and the river Ribagorçana to followthe N-260 towards La Pobla de Segur via the Perves pass. The road, with itsconstant bends, becomes difficult and even slightly hazardous as it winds amidwild scenery and plunging ravines, along ridges with panoramic views andthrough quaint villages. At Senterada, just before La Pobla de Segur, one canturn left into the beautiful valley of Vall Fosca, where the gentle, lush green ofthe river banks is a welcome relief from the rough mountain slopes. Here wevisit the headwaters of the Flamicell, the lakes of Estany Gento, and the littlechurches of Cabdella, Espui and Sant Martí de la Torre.

The other possible route from Aran to La Pobla de Segur is the C-28, which goes over the Bonaigua pass (only open between April/May andOctober/November on account of snow). The road winds down in a spectacularseries of bends to Esterri d’Àneu in a part of the Noguera Pallaresa valley knownas the Vall d’Àneu. From here we take a short road up the river to two outstand-ing buildings: Sant Joan d’Isil, standing right on the river bank and, slightly far-ther north, the parish church of Sant Llisser in the little village of Alós d’Isil.From Esterri, following the Escalarre road and doing a slight detour, we come to the shrine of Santa Maria d’Àneu before returning to the Noguera Pallaresaand the C-13. Then, beyond the La Torrassa or La Guingueta reservoir, wereach the monastery of Sant Pere del Burgal, an interesting building whichstands on high ground on the left-hand side of the river opposite Escaló andcan be reached across a small bridge.

From Llavorsí it is worthwhile visiting two neighbouring valleys. One, the VallFerrera, is rich in iron outcrops and numerous Romanesque and pre-Romanesque buildings are scattered throughout the borough of Alins, whichstretches as far as Catalonia’s highest peak, the Pica d’Estats. In the neighbour-ing Vall de Cardós, the majestic bell tower of Ribera de Cardós rises abovegreener and more open countryside which culminates amid mountain peaksand lakes in the silver birch clad Plans de Boavi.

Returning to the Noguera Pallaresa, we travel downstream, through Sort, thetourist centre and capital of Pallars Sobirà, until we find ourselves below theshrine of Arboló, made from reddish stone and perched above the left bank ofthe river. A little further on, opposite the picturesque town of Gerri de la Sal,whose old salt works can still be seen, is the splendid building that once housedthe monastery of Santa Maria. We travel on through the impressively ruggedCollegats gorge, between vertical limestone walls past the attractiveL’Argenteria rock, till we reach La Pobla de Segur, where we join the other routefrom Aran through Alta Ribagorça.

The high mountains are now far behind and before us is the vast sun-drenched Conca de Tremp valley. The Noguera Pallaresa runs into the SantAntoni, or Talarn reservoir. From Tremp, the capital of Pallars Jussà, we take theC-1412 to Ponts via Isona to visit the interesting churches of Abella de laConca, nestling beneath a great rock, and Covet, with its very handsome door-way. South of Tremp the road runs alongside the Terradets reservoir. At thehead of the lake, we can take an asphalted road through Guàrdia de Noguera tothe castle and collegiate church of Mur.

Beyond the long and spectacular ravine carved out by the river through theMontsec range, the Pas de Terradets, we enter the Vall d’Àger. Almost immedi-ately we come upon the church and castle of La Baronia de Sant Oïsme, stand-ing in a beautiful setting and reflected in the waters of the Camarasa reservoir.Here, one can go back up the C-12 doing a short detour and crossing the rivertowards the charming town of Àger, with its ancient collegiate church of SantPere. After admiring the magnificent view from the Àger pass we continuedown to the ancient abbey of Bellpuig de les Avellanes and thence to Balagueron the banks of the Segre.

On the outskirts of Balaguer, the capital of Noguera, is the Romanesquechurch of Santa Maria de les Franqueses. The town also boasts other interest-ing buildings and an exceptionally fine square with archways. From here onecan also take the Doll road as far as Camarasa to see the church of Sant Miqueland the remains of the castle overlooking the town and the narrow valley.

The roads from Balaguer to Lleida run in almost straight lines on either side ofthe quiet waters of the Segre. The mountains have faded into the distance andthe landscape is flat, with cornfields and orchards. 28 km further on we reachLleida, the capital of Segrià and of western Catalonia. Lleida offers several fineexamples of Romanesque art: the Seu Vella, the churches of Sant Martí, SantLlorenç and Santa Maria de Gardeny.

suggested route

mountain tracks


Tourist Offices

views

World Heritage Site


MMaaiinn hhiissttoorriicc bbuuiillddiinnggssAbella de la Conca. Former parishchurch of Sant Esteve, fine building,3 aisles, 3 apses and 2-storey belltower with two light windows, all withLombard decoration.

Àger. Reinforced ruins of the formercollegiate church of Sant Pere, cryptwith 3 aisles (11th C.); 12th C. upperchurch with 3 aisles and 3 apses,central out ward apse with inner nich-es, half columns and carved capitals.Mural paintings at the MNAC. Alsoremains of Àger castle and of the for-tifications that surrounded monasteryand town.

Alins. Typical Pyrenean village, cen-tre of Vall Ferrera, where many smallrecently restored Romanesque chur-ches are located. Foremost amongthem: Santa Maria de la Torre, La Força d’Àreu and remains of the pre-Romanesque church of Sant Francesc d’Araós. Romanesquewooden statue of the Virgin in Àreuparish church.

Alós d’lsil. Parish church of SantLlísser, modified: interesting doorwaywith 3 decorated archivolts, chess-band frieze, columns and capitalswith heads of humans and animals,also two very ancient low reliefs oneither side, believed to representAdam and Eve before and after theFall. (Borough: Alt Àneu.)

Arboló. Shrine of La Mare de Déu(mid 12th C.) in reddish-colouredstone: nave and apses with arca-tures, small bell tower over the nave.(Borough: Soriguera.)

Arties. Parish church of Santa Maria(12-13th C.), basilican plan: 3 aisles,3 apses, north door with 6 decoratedarchivolts. El Remei (12th C) Roma-nesque wooden statue of the Virgininteresting later features. (Borough:Naut Aran.)

Balaguer. On the outskirts, SantaMaria de les Franqueses, church ofthe former monastery of Cisterciannuns, now abandoned; built in theshape of a Latin cross, apse, door-way in Romanesque-Gothic transi-tion style (12-13th C.).

La Baronia de Sant Oïsme. Churchof Sant Bartomeu with a nave, 3small cross-shaped apses, small belltower, near the old Castle of SantOïsme, restored, with magnificentround tower. (Borough: Camarasa.)

Barruera. Parish church of SantFeliu: nave, apse with Lombard dec-oration; doorway with mouldings andporch; square bell tower. (Borough:Vall de Boí.)

Bellpuig de les Avellanes. Formerabbey of Premonstratensian canons(Santa Maria), now seminary of theMarist brothers, who have restored it.The Romanesque cloister with dou-ble columns and very soberly orna-mented capitals date back to thefoundation (12-13th C.). (Borough:Os de Balaguer.)

Boí. Parish church of Sant Joan inthe little village from which the Vall deBoí takes its name. Formerly with 3aisles. One apse and the squareLombard-type bell tower remain.Inside, finely restored reproductionsof mural paintings now at the MNAC(stoning of Saint Stephen and min-strels). (Borough: Vall de Boí.)

Bossòst. Parish church of EraAssumpcion de Maria (12th. C), thebest example of religious architecturein the Val d’Aran: basilican plan; 3aisles separated by wall arches rest-ing on pillars; 3 apses with Lombarddecoration; 2 remarkable doors, es-pecially north door with 3 archivolts,columns, carved capitals with chessband design and fine, archaic tympa-num (Christ in Majesty and Evan-

gelists); very solid 4-storey bell towerwith pyramid-shaped roof.

Cabdella. Historical centre of the VallFosca. Modified Romanesque parishchurch of Sant Vicenç, with squarebell tower and Lombard apse. Awooden statue of Christ (12th C.) atthe MNAC comes from here. In thesame valley, church of Sant Martí dela Torre (nave and small apse) andchurch of Sant Julià d’Espui, modi-fied, with bell tower similar to thosefound in the Vall de Boí. (Borough: LaTorre de Cabdella.)

Camarasa. Remains of the old castleand of the ancient parish church ofSant Miquel on a hilltop overlookingthe town: building in Romanesque-Gothic transition style (13th C.), onlya few walls and the chevet with inter-esting capitals remain (others at theMNAC).

Cap d’Aran. Shrine of Era Mare de Déu, now Tredòs parish church,12th C., altered: basilican plan with 3 aisles, 3 apses with Lombard orna-mentation, small crypt, door witharchivolts and columns with carvedcapitals and Chrismon over the key-stone. Many of the mural paintingsare now at The Cloisters in New York.(Borough: Naut Aran.)

Cóll. Parish church of Santa Maria:nave, wall with arcatures, doorwaywith archivolts (12th C.) and chess-band frieze, low relief with Chrismon,ironwork on door and bell tower.(Borough: Vall de Boí.)

Covet. Parish church of Santa Maria(12th C.) in the shape of a Latin cross:3 apses; inner gallery behind the rosewindow on the façade; very finesculpted doorway revealing Toulou-sain influence with figures in relief(showing the fall of the angels, scenesfrom the Old and New Testaments,acrobats, etc.), one of the most origi-nal in Catalan Romanesque art, tym-panum depicting Christ and Evange-lists. (Borough: Isona i Conca Dellà.)

Durro. Parish church of La Nativitatde la Mare de Déu (12th C.), restored:nave, side porch with arcades, door-way with archivolts on double co-lumns, bolt on the door, squareLombard-type bell tower, more mas-sive than others in the Vall de Boí.(Borough: Vall de Boí.)

Erill la Vall. Parish church of SantaEulàlia (12th C.): totally restored,nave, semicircular apse and smallapses forming a transept, porch witharcades resting on columns, magnifi-cent 6-storey Lombard-type bell tow-er with pairs of windows. The famousgroup of sculptures, Descent fromthe Cross, of which a copy has beenmade, now split between the MNACand the MEV, comes from here.(Borough: Vall de Boí.)

Escunhau. Parish church of SantPèir, altered but retaining its verybeautiful 12th C. door: 2 archivolts; 2 columns with carved bases andcapitals (small heads and geometri-cal designs); tympanum with veryrudimentary figure of Christ; friezeover arcade with Chrismon, other designs and chess bands. Inside,Romanesque fonts. (Borough: Vielhae Mijaran.)

Gerri de la Sal. Former Benedictinemonastery of Santa Maria: the spa-cious church (consecrated 1149, modi-fied) still stands: 3 aisles separatedby massive pillars, 3 apses withLombard decoration, door with archi-volt and wrought capitals protectedby a 3-part galilee, 3-storey wall bel-fry over the middle of the façade,which has been largely restored.

Lleida. Capital of Western Catalonia,already an important city under Arabdomination (conquered 1149). Fore-most among Romanesque monu-ments is La Seu Vella (the old ca-thedral), standing on the La Suda

promontory, magnificent example ofRomanesque-Gothic transition stylebuilt by Pere Sacoma (1203-1278)with basilican plan: 3 aisles; widetransept with lantern over the cross-ing and 5 apses at east end. The twodoors, Porta del Fillols and Porta de l’Anunciata, are fine examples of the work of the School of Lleida,which takes its name from here (notethe archivolts and capitals in theProvençal tradition with Arabic-stylemotifs showing Biblical and pro-fane scenes). The cloister is fullyGothic. Restoration is well underway.Restored 13th C. buildings in LaSuda district (Canonja, Casa del’Almoina). Church of Sant Llorenç(13th C.), enlarged in Gothic times,with fine School of Lleida door.Church of Sant Martí, 13th C., withinteresting sculptures and very elab-orate doorway from El Tormillo(Huesca). Church of Santa Maria deGardeny, built in very austere Cis-tercian style (13th C.), formerly part ofan important and ancient communityof the Knights Templar (later of theKnights Hospitallers). Present CityHall (La Paeria, 13th C.): interestingexample of Romanesque civil archi-tecture.

Mur. Former Augustinian canonry ofSanta Maria (12th C.): church withbasilican plan, 3 aisles, 3 Lombard-type apses. Many of the mural paint-ings are in Boston or the MNAC.Cloister with rudimentary capitals.On a nearby crag, ruins of Mur castle(11th C.) masterpiece of Catalan

5

La Baronia de Sant Oïsme Barruera. Sant Feliu Àger. Collegiate of Sant Pere Ribera de Cardós. Santa Maria Gerri de la Sal. Santa Maria

Sant Joan de Boí. The Stoning of Saint Stephen. MNAC

Covet. Doorway, Santa Maria

Mur. Castle


Romanesque civil architecture. Boththe monastery (cloister and east sec-tor buildings) and the castle have re-cently been restored. (Borough:Castell de Mur.)

Ribera de Cardós. Parish church ofSanta Maria (12th C., modified): orna-mented doorway and rose window,slender 3-storey bell tower withLombard decoration and pairs ofwindows similar to those found in theVall de Boí. (Borough: La Vall deCardós.)

Salardú. Parish church of SantAndreu (12-13th C.), Romanesque-Gothic transition style, basilican plan:3 aisles, 3 apses, door with 5 archi-volts in School of Lleida style; inside,magnificent 13th C. Romanesquewooden statue, the Christ of Salardú,with beard, tunic and feet piercedwith nails, reminiscent of the one atMijaran. In 1994-1999, remarkablelate Gothic mural paintings were un-covered (Borough: Naut Aran.)

Sant Joan d’Isil. Former monastery:church with 3 aisles and 3 apses.Lombard decoration on walls aboveheads of humans and animals, doorwith decorated archivolts and styl-ized capitals; in the upper frieze, lowreliefs (damaged) of Adam and Evebefore and after the Fall, similar tothose at Alós d’Isil. (Borough: AltÀneu.)

Sant Pere del Burgal. FormerBenedictine monastery: large rein-forced ruins of the 11th C. church: 3 apses on the east side (restoredand forming a chapel) and 1 on west.Remarkable mural paintings attrib-uted to the Pedret Master, now in the MNAC, come from here (repro-ductions). They depict saints andprophets and, for the first time, the

figure of the donator (Lucia comites-sa, countess of Pallars Sobirà at theend of the 11th C.). (Borough: LaGuingueta i Jou.)

Santa Maria d’Àneu. Former Bene-dictine monastery: 11th C. church(modified), apse with Lombard deco-ration. Magnificent polychrome muralpaintings, now at the MNAC, comefrom here. Probably later than thoseat Sant Pere del Burgal, they depictangels or seraphs with six wingsstudded with eyes —symbolizing vigilance— surrounded by the lettersof the Sanctus and holding tongswith burning coals in their hands (the purification of Isaiah) and burn-ing wheels. (Borough: La Guingueta iJou.)

Taüll. In this village are two of themost beautiful of the famous Vall deBoí Romanesque churches: SantCliment and Santa Maria, declared aWorld Heritage Site by UNESCO(2000) together with the other Roma-nesque churches of the Vall de Boí,built by the powerful Erill dynasty andconsecrated on successive days in1123. Sant Climent, on the outskirts,is a magnificent church with 3 aisles

separated by columns, 3 apses witharcatures and bands of Lombarddecoration, a slender 6-storey squarebell tower separate from the building,also with Lombard decoration, andtwo light windows. The mural paint-ings (1123) in the chevet (reproduc-tions —the originals are at theMNAC— are among the finest exam-ples of the genre on account of theirpower of expression, purity of lineand rich polychromy (Christ inMajesty, saints and apostles, scenesfrom the Old and New Testamentsand the Apocalypse). Santa Mariahas the same structure and a fine belltower attached to the church. Thechief feature of the mural paintings(also at the MNAC) is the Virgin andChild. Also at Taüll, remains of theRomanesque church of Sant Martíand chapel of Sant Quirze. (Borough:Vall de Boí.)

Unha. Small 12th C. parish church ofSanta Eulàlia, 3 aisles and 3 apses.(Borough: Naut Aran.)

Vielha. Parish church of SantMiquèu, Gothic but with elements of the original Romanesque-Gothictransition building (12-13th C.): beau-tiful 12th C. baptismal font with lowrelief and famous Christ of Mijaran, amagnificent life-size wooden bustwhich must have been part of aDescent from the Cross like that atErill la Vall. The old convent andchurch of Santa Maria de Mijaran,from which the bust comes, wasonce the political centre of the Vald’Aran (the governors of the Valleyswore there to respect the privileges).The reinforced ruins, now part of a modern building, are to the north of the village. (Borough: Vielha eMijaran.)

6

Bossòst. Era Assumpcion de Maria Alós d’Isil. Sant Lliser

Lleida. “Els Fillols“ door, la Seu Vella

Vielha. Christ of Mijaran Tarragona. Cathedral, cloister doorway

Escunhau. Sant Pèir

Hand of a seraph,

Santa Eulàlia d’Estaon

(Pallars Sobirà,

circa 1150). MNAC

RRoouuttee 33::

FFrroomm PPeenneeddèèss ttoo NNeeww CCaattaalloonniiaa vviiaa tthheemmoonnaasstteerriieess ooff tthhee CCiisstteerrcciiaann aanndd mmiilliittaarryy oorrddeerrss

From Barcelona we take the N-340 to the Ordal pass and on to the winegrow-ing area of Alt Penedès. A side road to Lavern then brings us to Sant Sebastiàdels Gorgs. The regional capital is Vilafranca del Penedès, a town with fine his-toric buildings and a wine museum (Museu del Vi). From here we can make in-teresting side trips to the church of Sant Cugat at Moja, to the castle and churchof Sant Martí Sarroca, which has one of the most beautiful apses in Catalonia, tothe ancient buildings and archeological remains at Olèrdola, where one can en-joy the magnificent view, and finally to the chapel of El Sant Sepulcre.

Following the N-340 southwards, we come to a side road from L’Arboç to theancient priory of Banyeres del Penedès. Further on, a left turning from Bellveigoes to the town of Calafell, whose houses cluster around the hilltop castle andchurch of La Santa Creu, overlooking the coastline and the nearby seaside re-sort and harbour. From El Vendrell, the capital of Baix Penedès, the route runsalong the Costa Daurada to Tarragona, formerly Tàrraco, the capital of HispaniaCiterior, which has preserved magnificent monuments from its Roman past aswell as examples of Romanesque art, foremost among them the cathedral. Anexcursion can be made to the ancient monastery of Escornalbou (some 25 kmto the west) which affords fine views over the region of Tarragona.

A side road (through Nulles and Bràfim) leads from Tarragona to the greatCistercian monastery of Santes Creus, which has several fine Romanesquefeatures. We continue along the Gaia river towards El Pont d’Armentera, wherewe take a minor road to El Pla de Santa Maria with its remarkable church.Beyond the Cabra pass to the north, we cross into Conca de Barberà.Montblanc, the picturesque capital, is still encircled by its imposing walls andoffers several noteworthy monuments. Our route takes us through nearbyL’Espluga de Francolí on the way to the Cistercian monastery of Poblet, whichno visitor should miss since it is one of the most important historic buildings inCatalonia and a leading religious and cultural centre. The last stop on theCistercian part of the route is the monastery of Vallbona de les Monges, an in-teresting and particularly attractive example of Romanesque-Gothic transitionstyle (located some 25 km north along the C-14).

Continuing on our way from Poblet, we leave the vineyards and dryland cropsbehind and climb up into the Prades mountains. The walled village of Prades,with its red-hued stone, is very picturesque. Further on, a left turning fromCornudella takes us to Siurana, a village of great character with a very beautifulchurch, perched on the edge of sheer cliffs with spectacular views over the reser-voir and river of the same name. Our route now crosses into Priorat, where thevines grow over slate rock. Beyond Poboleda one can see the reinforced ruins ofthe former Carthusian monastery of Escaladei, at the foot of the Montsant.

The beauty of the countryside is ample compensation for the long drive viaFalset and Móra d’Ebre required to reach three more key Romanesque monu-ments: the castle of the Knights Templar at Miravet, overlooking the river Ebro;Gandesa, the capital of Terra Alta, with its splendid church doorway; and theancient castle of the Knights Hospitallers and adjoining church of Els Àngels atUlldecona, at the southern tip of Catalonia in Montsià.


MMaaiinn hhiissttoorriicc bbuuiillddiinnggssBanyeres del Penedès. Shrine andformer Benedictine priory of SantaMaria, 2 aisles, 2 apses.Calafell. Church of Santa Creu (11thC.) in precinct of old castle: nave andapse with Lombard decoration (acrypt and another aisle were addedlater); remains of 11th C. mural paint-ings under more recent works.Escaladei. Former Carthusian mo-nastery of Santa Maria: remains ofold church (1228) but mainly of Re-naissance and Baroque buildings.The buildings have been reinforcedand a monastery cell and accommo-dation rebuilt. (Borough: La Morerade Montsant.)Escornalbou. Former Augustiniancanonry (Franciscan convent from1580) of Sant Miquel, restored (1910)by E. Toda: church (1240) with beau-tiful doorway and large rose window,cloister commanding splendid viewsover the Tarragona region. (Borough:Riudecanyes.)Gandesa. Parish church of L’As-sumpció (renovated 17-18th C.), veryfine School of Lleida doorway witharchivolts and columns with capitals(plant motifs, geometrical patternsand human figures).Miravet. Imposing fortress above theEbro, centre of a powerful communityof the military order of the KnightsTemplar, good example of the militaryarchitecture of the period; precinctwith massive walls and towers; insideit, church of Sant Martí with largevaulted rooms underneath. The groupof buildings has been reinforced andrestored over the past few years.Moja. Parish church of Sant Cugat(now Sant Jaume): nave, transept,Lombard decoration in apse, belltower over nave. (Borough: Olèrdola.)Montblanc. Church of Sant Miquel,Romanesque-Gothic transition style,very austere Romanesque façade,door with archivolts and capitals.

Olèrdola. Church of Sant Miquel, inearly medieval fortress built overIberian and Roman buildings (nave,apses and other pre-Romanesqueelements; door and lantern, 12th C.or later). Adjoining north-east side,chevet of Mozarabic-type chapel(9th C.) with horseshoe arch. An-thropomorphic graves (so-calledOlèrdola type) in the rock, near theChurch and on Pla des Albats.Within municipal boundaries, at theMas del Sant Sepulcre, importantround chapel with mural paintings,private property.

El Pla de Santa Maria. Church ofSanta Maria (now Sant Ramon) del Plade Santa Maria (formerly Pla deCabra), 13th C., one of the finest in thearea, restored: nave, wide transept,octagonal lantern, fine stonework,

magnificent doorway with 8 archivoltsand decorated lintel and tympanum.

Poblet. Cistercian monastery ofSanta Maria, religious and culturalcentre where monastic life has beenresumed. Tombs of the kings ofCatalonia-Aragon. Buildings mostlyGothic. One side of the main cloister(12th C.), some doors, small clois-ter, chapel of Sant Esteve and otherelements on the east side are from the Romanesque period. Declared aWorld Heritage Site by UNESCO(Borough: Vimbodí.)

Sant Martí Sarroca. Church of SantaMaria, restored 1906 by Puig iCadafalch: nave and door with archi-volts, later lantern and bell tower.Apse considered the most richlyadorned in Catalonia: arcades insideand out, with archivolts and decorat-

ed abacuses on columns with capi-tals (plant and zoomorphic designs).Gothic and Baroque retables. Muchrestored castle.

Sant Sebastià dels Gorgs. FormerBenedictine monastery: the church,though altered, retains its ancient doorand fine sculpted tympanum (Christ inMajesty surrounded by angels), its bell tower and part of the cloister.(Borough: Avinyonet del Penedès.)

Santes Creus. Important and an-cient Cistercian monastery, recentlyrestored, Romanesque-Gothic tran-sition style with some fine Roma-nesque features: various doorways

and windows, octagonal pavilion inthe big Gothic cloister, old chapel ofLa Trinitat. (Borough: Aiguamúrcia.)

Siurana. Church of Santa Maria (12th C.):nave and unadorned apse, bell towerand doorway with 3 richly decoratedarchivolts (figure of Christ in centre oftympanum). (Borough: Cornudella.)

Tarragona. Important city in Romantimes and current seat of the me-tropolitan archdiocese of Catalonia, declared a World Heritage Site byUNESCO (2000). Cathedral in Roma-nesque-Gothic transition style butwith elements of earlier Roman con-structions and fine examples of 12-13th C. Romanesque art (apse, sidedoor on façade, very fine cloisterdoorway in white marble with Christin Majesty on top and magnificentcarved capital in the middle, archesand capitals in the large cloister).Within the cathedral precinct, churchof Santa Tecla la Vella and nearbychapel of Sant Pau. In the centre ofthe Roman amphitheatre by the sea,remains of a Visigothic basilica and ofthe Romanesque church of SantaMaria del Miracle.

Ulldecona. The ancient castle withimposing towers that rises above thetown was the centre of an importantcommunity of the Knights Hospi-tallers. In the precinct, Cistercian-style church of La Mare de Déu delsÀngels, seat of a priory of KnightsHospitallers. The buildings have beenreinforced, excavated and restored.

Vallbona de les Monges. Monaste-ry of Cistercian nuns (religious life still continues), large group of build-ings in Romanesque-Gothic transitionstyle (12-13th C. and later). From theRomanesque period: apse, door onnorth transept (Marian subjects in finerelief) and south and east wings of the magnificent cloister. Currentlybeing restored, especially the cloister.

7

C-1

4

C-1

4

C-51

C-31

C-43

C-1

2

AP-7/E-15

AP-7/E-15

AP-2/E-90

AP-2/E-90

AP-2/E-90

Ceiling panel, Barcelona

(circa 1300). MNAC

Sant Martí Sarroca. Santa Maria Miravet El Pla de Santa Maria. Sant Ramon

Olèrdola. Façade of Sant Miquel Gandesa. L’Assumpció Siurana. Tympanum, Santa Maria

suggested route

mountain tracks


Tourist Offices

views

World Heritage Site


8

AAllpphhaabbeettiiccaall lliisstt ooff ppllaacceess wwiitthh sseelleecctteeddRRoommaanneessqquueebbuuiillddiinnggssAbella de la Conca C-3Abrera F-6Àger B-4Agramunt C-5Alins D-2Alós d’Isil (Alt Àneu) C-1Araós, see. Alins D-2Arboló (Soriguera) C-3Àreu D-2Arties C-1Balaguer C-5Banyeres del Penedès E-7Barberà del Vallès F-6Barcelona F-7Baronia de Sant Oïsme, La

(Camarasa) C-4Barruera (la Vall de Boí) C-2Beget (Camprodon) G-3Bell-lloc, Santa Maria de see.

Santa Coloma de Queralt D-6Bell-lloc d’Aro (Santa Cristina

d’Aro) I-5Bellpuig de les Avellanes

(Os de Balaguer) B-4Besalú H-3Bescaran (Les Valls

de Valira) E-2Beuda H-3Boí (la Vall de Boí) C-2Bossòst B-1Breda H-5Cabdella (la Torre

de Cabdella) C-2Calafell E-7Camarasa C-4Camprodon G-3Canapost (Forallac) I-4Canovelles G-5Cap d’Aran (Naut Aran) C-1Cardet (la Vall de Boí) C-2Cardona E-4Castellar de n’Hug F-3Castellbò (Montferrer

i Castellbò) D-2Castell-llebre (Peramola) D-4Cervelló F-6Cervera D-5Coaner (Sant Mateu

de Bages) E-5Cóll (la Vall de Boí) C-2Coll de Nargó D-3Covet (Isona i Conca Dellà) C-3Cruïlles (Cruïlles, Monells

i Sant Sadurní de l’Heura) I-4Durro (la Vall de Boí) C-2Erill la Vall (la Vall de Boí) C-2Escaladei (la Morera

de Montsant) C-7Escornalbou (Riudecanyes) C-7Escunhau (Vielha e Mijaran) C-1Espinelves G-4Espui, see. Cabdella C-2Estamariu E-3Estany, L’ F-4Força d’Àreu, la, see. Alins D-2Franqueses, Santa Maria

de les, see. Balaguer C-5Gandesa A-7Gardeny, see. Lleida B-5Garriga, la G-5Gerri de la Sal C-3Girona H-4Gualter (la Baronia de Rialb) D-4Guils de Cerdanya F-2Juvinyà, see. Sant Joan

de les Fonts G-3Llanars G-3Lladó H-3

Lleida B-5Lluçà F-4Manresa E-5Marquet, el (Mura) F-5Mijaran, Santa Maria de, see.

Vielha C-1Miravet B-8Moja (Olèrdola) E-7Molló G-3Montblanc D-6Montserrat (Monistrol de

Montserrat) E-5Mur (Castell de Mur) C-4Mura F-5Navata H-3Obiols (Avià) E-4Olèrdola E-7Oliana D-4Olius E-4Organyà D-3Palau de Rialb (la Baronia

de Rialb) D-4Palau-saverdera 1-3Pedret (Cercs) F-4Pelagalls (els Plans de Sió) D-5Peralada 1-3Pla de Santa Maria, el D-7Pobla de Lillet, la F-4Poblet (Vimbodí) C-7Ponts D-5Porqueres H-4Ribera de Cardós

(La Vall de Cardós) D-2Ripoll F-3Rocabruna (Camprodon) G-3Roses I-3Salardú (Naut Aran) C-1Santa Cecília de Montserrat

(Marganell), see. Montserrat E-5Santa Coloma de Farners H-5Santa Coloma de Queralt D-6Santa Eugènia de Berga G-4Santa Eugènia de Nerellà

(Bellver de Cerdanya) E-3Santa Maria d’Àneu

(la Guingueta i Jou) D-2Santa Maria de la Torre,

see. Alins D-2Sant Andreu de Llanars

(Prats de Lluçanès) F-4Santa Pau H-3Sant Benet de Bages

(Sant Fruitós de Bages) F-5Sant Cugat del Racó (Navàs) F-4Sant Cugat del Vallès F-6Santes Creus (Aiguamúrcia) D-6

Sant Esteve d’en Bas (la Vall d’en Bas) G-4

Sant Feliu de Guíxols I-5Sant Jaume de Frontanyà F-3Sant Joan d’Isil (Alt Àneu) C-1Sant Joan de les Abadesses G-3Sant Joan les Fonts G-3Sant Júlia de Boada

(Palau-sator) I-4Sant Llorenç del Munt

(Matadepera) F-5Sant Llorenç de Morunys E-3Sant Llorenç prop Bagà

(Guardiola de Berguedà) F-3Sant Martí de la Torre, see.

Cabdella C-2Sant Martí Sarroca E-6Sant Miquel de Fluvià I-3Sant Miquel del Fai

(Bigues i Riells) G-5Sant Pau del Camp, see.

Barcelona F-6Sant Pere Cercada

(Santa Coloma de Farners) H-5Sant Pere de Casserres

(les Masies de Roda) G-4Sant Pere de Rodes

(el Port de la Selva) I-3Sant Pere del Burga

(la Guingueta i Jou) D-2Sant Ponç de Corbera

(Cervelló) F-6Sant Quirze de Colera

(Rabós d’Empordà) I-2Sant Sadurní d’Osormort G-4Sant Sebastià de Gorgs

(Avinyonet del Penedès) E-5Sant Sepulcre, el see.

Olèrdola E-7Sant Sepulcre de Palera,

El (Beuda) H-3Sant Serni de Tavèrnoles

(les Valls de Valira) D-2Sant Tomàs de Fluvià

(Torroella de Fluvià), see.Sant Miquel de Fluvià I-3

Sant Vicenç de Rus, see.Castellar de n’Hug F-3

Sant Vicenç de Torelló G-4Savassona (Tavèrnoles) G-4Seu d’Urgell, la D-3Siurana (Cornudella) C-7Solsona E-4Talamanca F-5Talló (Bellver de Cerdanya) E-3Tarragona D-7Tàrrega C-5Taüll (la Vall de Boí) C-2Tavèrnoles G-4Terrassa F-6Tossa de Montbui, La (Santa

Margarida de Montbui) E-6Ulldecona A-9Unha (Naut Aran) C-1Vallbona de les Monges C-6Valldarques, see.

Coll de Nargó D-3Vic G-5Vielha (Vielha e Mijaran) C-1Vilabertran I-3Vilademàger (la Llacuna). E-6Viladordis (Manresa) E-5Vilalleons (Sant Julià

de Vilatorta) G-4Vilanova del Pla

(Santa Maria d’Oló) F-4

Sant Pere del Burgal. Mural painting attributed to the Pedret Master. MNAC

Hand of God,

antependium, Sant Pere de Boí

(circa 1260). MNAC


9

World Heritage Site by UNESCO

Romanesque building

Airport


MMaaiinn hhiissttoorriicc bbuuiillddiinnggss

Abrera. Parish church of Sant Pere(12th C.): nave and 3 cross-shapedLombard-type apses, fine carveddoor and bell tower. Nearby pre-Ro-manesque chapel of Sant Hilari, naveand rectangular apse (the sculptedimposts are probably earlier).

Cardona. Former canonry of SantVicenç, large basilica in the shape ofa Latin cross consecrated 1040 (oneof the great Catalan Romanesquemonuments): 3 aisles (nave 19.6 mhigh, 6 windows), separated by cruci-form columns; 3 Lombard-type aps-

es; small transept; octagonal lantern;austere façade with rose window andgalilee with archways (the muralpaintings are now on loan in theMNAC). Crypt below the chancel: 3 aisles with groined vaulting restingon columns with pyramid-frustumcapitals. Cardona castle, seat of animportant dynasty, located in a keystrategic position (much altered). Thefamous Torre de la Minyona (11th C.cylindrical tower with sloping base)still stands alongside the large palaceand later monastery buildings.

Castellar de n’Hug. Parish church ofSanta Maria (11th C., modified): nave,door with interesting ironwork, belltower. Nearby church of Sant Vicenç

de Rus (1105): nave, apse with arca-tures, mural paintings.

Cervelló. Church of Santa Maria deCervelló or del Socors (11th C.), formerly parish church of Sant Este-ve: nave and Lombard-type apse,lantern above crossing, base of an-cient bell tower. Anthropomorphicgraves.

Coaner. Church of Sant Julià, conse-crated 1204: 3 aisles, 3 apses andwalls all decorated in Lombard style,square bell tower. Alongside, hand-some cylindrical tower of old castle.(Borough: Sant Mateu de Bages.)

Guils de Cerdanya. Parish church ofSant Esteve de Guils (11-12th C.):

10

N-260

C-1

6/E-

9

C-26

C-26

C-55

C-55

C-1

6c

C-55

Hand of King Balthasar,

Santa Maria de Taüll

(1123). MNAC

RRoouuttee 44::

FFrroomm CCeerrddaannyyaa ttoo tthhee BBaarrcceelloonnaaaarreeaa vviiaa tthhee LLlloobbrreeggaatt aannddCCaarrddeenneerr vvaalllleeyyss

Puigcerdà, the capital of Cerdanya, stands on a hilltop overlooking beautifulcountryside. From here the first recommended visit is to the little village ofGuils, with its church of Sant Esteve. Then we take the N-260 which runsalongside the slow-flowing Segre amid the villages and green fields of theCerdanya plain to Bellver de Cerdanya. Among the many parish churches with-in the municipal boundaries of this attractive tourist centre are the Roma-nesque church of Talló, known as the “cathedral of Cerdanya”, and SantaEugènia de Nerellà, with its graceful leaning bell tower.

We now drive through the new 5 km-long Cadí tunnel that links Cerdanya toBerguedà and follow the C-16 to the monastery of Sant Llorenç prop Bagà onthe banks of the Bastareny, very close to Guardiola de Berguedà. A scenicroute from Guardiola leads eastward towards the nearby town of La Pobla deLillet, with its ruined Monastery of Santa Maria and round church of SantMiquel. It is worth detouring along a road that climbs amid spectacular viewspast the little church of Sant Vicenç de Rus to the picturesque town of Castellarde n’Hug, which offers the dual attraction of an interesting parish church —Santa Maria— and the natural beauty of the sources of the Llobregat.

From Guardiola the C-16 continues southwards through the Llobregatgorges towards Berga, the capital of Berguedà. Before reaching the town wetake the C-26 eastwards across the La Baells reservoir to the exceptionallybeautiful church of Sant Jaume de Frontanyà, unquestionably the best exam-ple of Romanesque art in Berguedà. Near the town of Berga, which lies at thefoot of the mountains below the shrine of Queralt, are two more buildings ofspecial interest which are reached by crossing the picturesque medieval bridgeover the Llobregat: the pre-Romanesque church of Sant Quirze de Pedret onthe left bank and, further south, close to the C-16, the church of Obiols.

The suggested route from Berga westwards runs through pleasant country-side with lofty mountains and thick pinewoods, especially after the La Mina tun-nel, where we cross into Solsonès. The route continues amid the cliffs androcks of the Busa and Bastets ranges until it reaches the reputed summer holi-day resort of Sant Llorenç de Morunys, lying below the ski slopes of Port delComte, where an ancient Benedictine monastery is located. Just before SantLlorenç, a road on the left that runs through open spaces along the riverCardener, between the cliffs of Lord and Busa and round the waters of theLlosa del Cavall reservoir, finally reaches Solsona, the capital of Solsonès. Theold quarter has great character, the cathedral of Santa Maria and the magnifi-cent diocesan Museum being of special interest.

Proceeding towards Manresa along the C-55 via a side road to Berga, wesoon reach a turning to the left which brings us to the church of Sant Esteved’Olius, close to the Cardener river. Adjoining it is an interesting cemetery in ArtNouveau style. We return to the main road and come shortly to the old town ofCardona, which grew up alongside rock salt deposits known as “La Muntanyade Sal” (the salt mountain). Rising above the town is the imposing duke’s castle(now partly converted into a hotel) and the collegiate church of Sant Vicenç, akey masterpiece in the development of Catalan Romanesque architecture.Further on, two side trips may be made from Súria: one westwards along a trackto Coaner church and castle, standing on a rocky pinnacle; the other along atrack that leads north-east from the Balsareny road to Sant Cugat del Racó.

Manresa, the capital of Bages, is an important industrial and commercialcentre with several interesting buildings including the basilica of Santa Maria,which comprises several Romanesque features. A well worthwhile side triptakes us to the beautiful monastery of Sant Benet de Bages, which is somehowreminiscent of a Romantic print (a short way along the C-141 towards Vic).From Navarcles, not far from Manresa, the road to Terrassa via the Estenallespass brings us to Talamanca church and castle and, further on, to the pic-turesque village of Mura, with its church of Sant Martí, nestling in a deep valley.

From Manresa our route continues along a minor road to the shrine of LaSalut at Viladordis. After crossing the Llobregat at El Pont de Vilomara, wereach the nearby small church of El Marquet, which reveals Mozarabic influ-ence. At Sant Vicenç de Castellet we rejoin the main C-55 and drive throughthe Llobregat valley as far as Monistrol. From here one should visit themonastery of Montserrat, the spiritual centre of Catalonia and one of the greatshrines of Roman Catholicism, perched halfway up the imposing mountain ofthe same name, with its distinctive rock formations. Inside is the Romanesquewooden statue of the Virgin of Montserrat. Close by, at the foot of the spectac-ularly sheer rock face below the lookout point at Sant Jeroni, the highest pointon the mountain, is the Romanesque church of Santa Cecília, which belongedto another ancient monastery.

Continuing down the Llobregat valley along the C-55 we reach Abrera, withits parish church of Sant Pere and chapel of Sant Hilari. We then join the N-II viaMartorell and Sant Andreu de la Barca as far as the Quatre Camins intersectionwhere we take the N-340 to the right and, 12 km further on, come to two inter-esting monuments: Santa Maria de Cervelló, on the left-hand side of the road,and Sant Ponç de Corbera, along a side road to Corbera de Llobregat on theoutskirts of the town.

Olius. Crypt, Sant Esteve

Solsona. Cathedral Talló. Santa Maria

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nave, decorated apse, fine doorwaywith 3 archivolts and columns withcarved capitals. An antependiumwith scenes from the life of SaintStephen, now at the MNAC, camefrom here.

Manresa. Collegiate church of SantaMaria (known as La Seu), Gothic withsome elements from earlier Roma-nesque church (door with fine capi-tals and tympanum depicting Marianscenes, arches near the Renaissancecloister).

El Marquet. 11th C. church of SantaMaria de Matadars or del Marquet:nave (the chevet is earlier Mozarabicor early Christian), rectangular apse,two side chapels joined to main apse by horseshoe arches. (Borough:Mura.)

Montserrat. Benedictine monasteryof Santa Maria, spiritual heart ofCatalonia with a long and distin-guished cultural tradition. Of theRomanesque basilica nothing re-mains except the former main door(now in the atrium) and famous late12th C. gilded polychrome woodenstatue of the Virgin, La Mare de Déude Montserrat (note the characteris-tic black colour of the face and handsof Mary and Jesus). On the samemountain, where monks and hermitshave lived for countless centuries,beautiful 11th C. church of the formerBenedictine monastery of SantaCecília: 3 aisles and 3 apses withLombard ornamentation. (Boroughs:Monistrol de Montserrat and Mar-ganell.)

Mura. Parish church of Sant Martí(11-12th C., modified): apse with ar-catures over capitals and half co-lumns, fine doorway with archivolts,richly decorated with sculptures(tympanum depicting the Epiphany).

Obiols. Parish church of Sant Vicenç:Romanesque nave and small tran-sept; pre-Romanesque trapeziformapse and horseshoe arches insideresting on columns with very primi-tive capitals. Anthropomorphic gra-ves in front of the doorway. (Borough:Avià.)

Olius. Parish church of Sant Esteve(11th C.), remarkable example ofLombard Romanesque style: nave,semi-circular apse with characteristicdecoration, beautiful crypt (same sizeas chancel) with 3 small aisles and 6 columns (the stairs, ironwork andbell tower are 16th C.). Interesting ArtNouveau cemetery nearby.

Pedret. Church of Sant Quirze(9th C., enlarged 10th C.), one of thebest examples of Catalan pre-Romanesque art: rectangular navewith trapeziform apse; later sideaisles joined to nave by horseshoearches; at the top of each, side aps-es, also with horseshoe arches, oneither side of the central apse (al-tered 12th C.). In the course of acomplete restoration, some of theoriginal mural paintings have beenreproduced. Some originals are inthe MDS (the 10th C. Primitives in-cluding the famous Orant figure andthe 12th C. fully Romanesque workswith scenes from the Apocalypse).Others (the works from the apse at-

tributed to the so-called PedretMaster) are in the MNAC. (Borough:Cercs.)

La Pobla de Lillet. Former Augus-tinian canonry of Santa Maria with amodified and recently reinforcedchurch (12th C.) and remains of avery early cloister. Nearby, church ofSant Miquel (12th C.), possibly oncethe chapel of Lillet Castle, circular inshape with embedded apse, semi-spherical dome and door with vous-soirs. A large 12th C. polychromewooden figure of Christ in Majesty onthe Cross from Santa Maria is vener-ated in the present parish church.

Sant Benet de Bages. FormerBenedictine monastery, group ofRomanesque buildings with later ad-ditions: 12th C. church in the shapeof a Latin cross, central outwardapse and the other apses like nichesin the wall, 2-storey lantern, doorwaywith archivolts and capitals, crypt,bell tower, magnificent 12-13th C.cloister with elaborate capitals, othermonastery buildings. Acquired by asavings bank, complete restorationis planned. (Borough: Sant Fruitósde Bages.)

Sant Cugat del Racó. Parishchurch of Sant Cugat del Racó orSalou (11th C.), remarkable exam-ple of Lombard style, in the shapeof a Greek cross, lofty cylindricallantern, main apse and one smallapse, Gothic doorway. (Borough:Navàs.)

Sant Jaume de Frontanyà. Parishchurch, once Augustinian canonry,exceptionally fine example of 11th C.Lombard Romanesque architecture

in the shape of a Latin cross: majestic12-sided lantern resting on squinch-es (unique in Catalonia and imitatedin the restoration of Ripoll), 3 apsesand austere façade.

Sant Llorenç de Morunys. FormerBenedictine monastery: much modi-fied 11th C. church (now parishchurch) with 3 aisles, Lombard deco-ration and interesting Gothic andBaroque features; remains of monas-tery buildings.

Sant Llorenç prop Bagà. FormerBenedictine monastery: 11-12th C.church (severely modified) with 3 aisles, large crypt, truncated belltower, pre-Romanesque relief oneast side windows. Restored and excavated, two apses have ap-peared as well as part of the formermonastery. (Borough: Guardiola deBerguedà.)

Sant Ponç de Corbera. Former Be-nedictine priory: interesting 11th C.church, nave, transept with 3 se-micircular apses at end, lantern over the transept surmounted by belltower, Lombard ornamentation allover the outside, remains of muralpaintings in apse. The polychromewooden statue of the Virgin (Mare de Déu de la Llet, 12-13th C.) in theparish church at nearby Corberacomes from here. (Borough: Cer-velló.)

Santa Eugènia de Nerellà. Parishchurch: nave, peculiar leaning squarebell tower with Lombard decorationthat has been reinforced. (Borough:Bellver de Cerdanya.)

Solsona. Cathedral of Santa Maria,seat of bishopric since 1593, formerlyimportant Augustinian canonry. Ofthe original Romanesque church,consecrated 1163 but much alteredin Gothic and Baroque times, the following remain: 3 apses decora-ted inside with columns and capi-tals, cloister door (School of Lleida,13th C.), magnificent Lombard-typebell tower and famous black stonestatue of the Virgin (La Mare de Déu del Claustre). Capitals and columnsnow at the adjoining Diocesan mu-seum.

Talamanca. Parish church of SantaMaria (12th C.): nave, transept andapse; door with archivolts andcolumns with carved capitals; friezeon outside walls with corbels, all inwell cut stone.

Talló. Parish church of Santa Maria(12th C.): nave and decorated apse;door with ironwork protected byporch; bell tower. A 13th C. Roma-nesque wooden statue of the Virgin,La Mare de Déu de Talló, is veneratedhere. Once seat of an Augustiniancanonry. (Borough: Bellver de Cer-danya.)

Viladordis. Shrine and parish churchof La Mare de Déu de la Salut, smallbuilding with nave and apse, modi-fied. (Borough: Manresa.)

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Sant Benet de Bages Pedret. Sant Quirze

La Pobla de Lillet. Sant Miquel

Sant Jaume de Frontanyà

Cardona


MMaaiinn hhiissttoorriicc bbuuiillddiinnggssBarberà del Vallès. Parish church ofSanta Maria (end 11th C.): nave, largetransept with 3 apses (Lombard dec-oration on apses and wall); bell towerwith pyramid-shaped roof. Interes-ting mural paintings (discovered1919): Christ in Majesty, scenes fromOld and New Testaments, Exaltationof the Cross, etc.

Barcelona. In the days when Bar-celona was the capital of the kingdomof Catalonia-Aragon, its political andeconomic vitality was such that mostof the Romanesque city was altered orrenovated. Some interesting Roma-nesque features remain: in the Cathe-dral, 13th C. chapel of Santa Llúcia,part of the Sant lu and cloister doors;the Portal Nou in the Roman walls,which were rebuilt in Romanesquetimes; Sant Pere de les Puelles, for-mer monastery of Benedictine nuns(12th C., considerably altered); and,above all, the 12th C. former Be-nedictine monastery of Sant Pau delCamp (church in the shape of a Greekcross with 3 apses remarkable door-way and cloister with multifoil archesand fine capitals). Also the 12th C.chapels of Sant Llàtzer (at the formerLepers’ Hospital) and of En Marcús,and courtyard gallery at the PalauEpiscopal (13th C.). Various museums,foremost among them the MNAC, withexceptionally rich collections.

Beget. Church of Sant Cristòfol (12th C.):nave, apse with fine window, decorateddoor and square 3-storey bell tower;inside is the famous 12th C. woodenstatue, the Majestat de Beget (Christin Majesty on the Cross wearing tunicand crown); baptismal font, severalGothic and Baroque statues and reta-bles. (Borough: Camprodon.)

Camprodon. Former monastery ofSant Pere: church (consecrated1169) in the shape of a Latin cross, 5 square apses, dome above cross-ing with octagonal lantern surmount-ed by 2-storey bell tower, door withcolumns.

12

RRoouuttee 55::

FFrroomm tthhee PPyyrreenneeeess ttoo BBaarrcceelloonnaavviiaa RRiippoollllèèss,, OOssoonnaa aanndd VVaallllèèss

Just as we cross the Coll d’Ares pass via the C-38 to enter Ripollès, the slen-der bell tower of Molló church comes into view surrounded by meadows. A lit-tle way on, a road to the left, which affords magnificent views over the upperGarrotxa mountains, brings us to Rocabruna. We drive on down to the pic-turesque village of Beget, nestling in a deep valley. Inside the lovely church isan impressive figure of Christ in Majesty on the Cross.

After rejoining the C-38 we are soon in Camprodon, a popular tourist resortset in peaceful, green Pyrenean countryside, with some outstanding monu-ments like the church of Sant Pere and the large medieval bridge. A side roadleads from here to Setcases, where visitors should admire the attractive parishchurch of Llanars.

Following the C-38 along the Ter, we come to Sant Pau de Segúries and thefine town of Sant Joan de les Abadesses. Here in the monastery are the mag-nificent group of sculptures, the “Santíssim Misteri”, and the restored remainsof the old parish church. At the exit from the town centre is the medievalbridge, also restored. The almost straight road to Ripoll continues down the Teramid fields and green meadows.

Ripoll, the capital of Ripollès, stands where the Ter joins the Freser. It is knownas the “cradle of Catalonia” on account of its role during the resettlement ofCatalonia (after the Muslim occupation) and the cultural influence it exerted. Theold monastery of Santa Maria, with its splendid doorway, is of prime importance.Ripoll stands at the intersection of roads leading to Cerdanya, Berguedà andGarrotxa. Our route continues down the Ter along the C-17, amid oak and pinewoods and riverside thickets. Beyond Montesquiu and Sant Quirze de Besora,we turn left towards Torelló across the wide bridge that spans the river and thenon to the fine parish church at nearby Sant Vicenç de Torelló (restored).

The C-17 finally leaves the Ter and runs through the neat and fertile fields ofthe Plana of Vic, a plain dotted with handsome farmhouses and ringed bymountains. In the centre lies the important city of Vic, the capital of Osona. Inaddition to the Romanesque cathedral bell tower and the contents of theMuseu Episcopal, Vic offers many other attractions including a large and livelyMain Square with archways (Plaça Major), where a busy market is held onSaturdays, and tasty local sausages.

Many excursions can be made from Vic to the various monuments that makeup the rich Romanesque heritage of the Plana. To the north-east lie Tavèrnolesand Savassona and, above all, the monastery of Sant Pere de Casserres,standing at the tip of a rocky promontory over the Sau reservoir on the Ter. Onthe eastern side are Santa Eugènia de Berga, Vilalleons, Espinelves and SantSadurní d’Osormort, all in picturesque surroundings and easy to reach. West ofVic, the C-25d to Prats de Lluçanès takes us to the little church of Sant Andreude Llanars standing on the plateau that separates the waters of the Ter from theLlobregat and, even more important, to the monastery of Lluçà, which alone isworth the trip. The road south-west from Vic to Santa Eulàlia de Riuprimerleads to Vilanova del Pla and to the excepcionally fine monastery of L’Estanyover the border in Bages.

The C-17 from Vic towards Barcelona brings us to the churches of SantaMaria del Camí and La Doma at La Garriga, a traditional summer holiday resortin the comarca of Vallès. Further south is Canovelles, with its parish church ofSant Feliu. However, well before this one can branch off at Centelles along theC-1413 that winds up along the Cingles de Bertí cliffs. Then, just before SantFeliu de Codines, there is a turning to the left towards the picturesque spot ofSant Miquel del Fai, where a church built into a cave stands alongside a beauti-ful waterfall.

From Sant Feliu de Codines we drive down towards Caldes de Montbui aspa town with hot springs and interesting Roman remains. Before Caldes an at-tractive mountain road climbs up El Farell and down to Sant Sebastià deMontmajor in its secluded valley. From Caldes, we go on through Castellar delVallès to Terrassa, where no visitor should fail to visit the three Visigothic-Romanesque churches built when Terrassa was the seat of the ancient dioceseof Egara. Those who enjoy a mountain hike can take the road to Navarcles andthen the track up to Can Pobla, from where a 3/4 hour climb brings them to thesummit of La Mola to visit the church of the ancient monastery of Sant Llorençdel Munt and admire the breathtaking panorama.

The road from Terrassa to Rubí takes us on to the town of Sant Cugat delVallès. Here, at the foot of the Collserola mountains that separate Vallès fromthe Barcelona plain, we can admire the imposing buildings of the ancientBenedictine monastery with its magnificent Romanesque cloister. By taking theSabadell road (N-150) towards Cerdanyola we reach the nearby church ofSanta Maria de Barberà del Vallès, which contains interesting wall paintings.Rejoining the N-150 we go on to Barcelona, the cosmopolitan capital ofCatalonia and one of the foremost cities on the Mediterranean, which is an im-portant stopping place on any Romanesque route. In addition to buildings ofgreat interest, like Sant Pau del Camp, Barcelona is the home of the MuseuNacional d’Art de Catalunya, which houses the world’s finest collection ofRomanesque mural paintings.

C-17

C-38

C-26

C-26

C-1

7

N-141c

C-14

13b

C-141

5a

Hand of the Virgin,

Sant Climent de

Taüll (1123). MNAC

Barcelona. Sant Pau del Camp

Beget Sant Llorenç del Munt

Sant Cugat del Vallès

Sant Joan de les Abadesses. “Santíssim Misteri”.

suggested route

mountain tracks


Tourist Offices

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World Heritage Site


Canovelles. Parish church of SantFeliu (11th C.): nave, Lombard-typeapse, remarkable doorway (13th C.)with archivolts and geometrical andanimal designs.

Espinelves. Parish church of SantVicenç d’Espinelves: 2 aisles, 2 aps-es (11th and 12th C.) with Lombard-style decoration, 3-storey bell towerwith arcatures resting on bracketswith small heads, 12th C. S door.

L’Estany. Former Augustinian canon-ry of Santa Maria: church consecrated1133, nave, transept and 3 apses, re-stored; magnificent 12-13th C. cloisterwith 10 arches on each side resting ontwin columns and numerous capitals(highly varied motifs —Biblical andprofane scenes including betrothals,minstrels etc.); monastery buildingsand small museum.

La Garriga. Church of Santa Mariadel Camí (one aisle), once part of ahospice, rebuilt in 12th C. over anearlier building. Also contains ele-ments from the primitive Romanes-que church of Sant Esteve de laDoma, on the outskirts.

Llanars. Parish church of Sant Esteve,consecrated 1168: nave and apse,handsome doorway with 3 archivolts,columns and capitals (School ofRoussillon) and original ironwork; re-markable 12th C. antependium inpolychrome wood (Christ in Majestyand scenes from the life of SaintStephen).

Lluçà. Santa Maria de Lluçà, formerpriory of canons: church (end 12th C.)with nave and 3 apses, many later al-terations, recently restored (noteoriginal ironwork on door); small buthandsome cloister with very finecolumns and capitals (plant and ani-mal motifs) in the style of the Schoolof Ripoll. A magnificent antependiumand altar sides (13th C.), partly repro-duced, are now in the MEV. Beneaththe choir, 14th C. Gothic paintingshave been found.

Molló. Parish church of Santa Cecí-lila (12th C.): well-squared stone-work, nave and transept, doorwaywith archivolts and wrought friezeabove; slender 4-storey bell tower,friezes of arcatures and fine win-dows.

Ripoll. Former Benedictine monas-tery of Santa Maria (founded 879 byCount Guifre the Hairy) which playeda leading role in the resettlement ofOld Catalonia and in the diffusion of culture (important scriptorium);restoration begun in 1886 accordingto the criteria of the time; basilicanplan church with 5 aisles, transeptand 7 11th C. Lombard-style apses,7-storey bell tower, tombs of theCounts of Barcelona and Besalú in-side; mid-12th C. doorway, the finestwork of Catalan Romanesque sculp-ture, with 7 horizontal bands of com-plex decoration (Biblical and allegori-cal scenes —Church Triumphant,Church Militant, deadly sins, etc.)and, on the intrados of the doorwayarch, the 12 months of the year andscenes of rural life; cloister begun at

the end of the 12th C. with one en-tirely Romanesque side comprisingvery beautifully decorated capitals(confronting animals, monsters, fo-liage). The School of Ripoll took itsname from these sculptures.

Rocabruna. Parish church of SantFeliu (12th C.): nave and apse doorwith fine ironwork, square bell tower.(Borough: Camprodon.)

Sant Andreu de Llanars. FormerBenedictine monastery (12th C.):nave and apse with fine square bell tower over the vault, very well restored. (Borough: Prats de Lluça-nès.)

Sant Cugat del Vallès. FormerBenedictine monastery, fully re-stored: remains of Visigothic con-structions in cloister, large churchwith 3 aisles and 3 apses, begun in12th C. but mostly incorporated intothe subsequent Gothic building (theLombard bell tower is Romanesque).Magnificent Romanesque cloister(end of the 12th century, fully re-stored) with fine capitals (plant andfigurative motifs) by Arnau Cadell(one, identified by an inscription,shows him at work.)

Sant Joan de les Abadesses. For-mer monastery of Benedictine nuns,later Augustinian canonry: 12th C.church, nave with 3 richly decoratedapses, modified; remains of Roma-nesque cloister or gallery alongsidethe Gothic one; famous group of 7 polychrome wooden sculpted fig-ures (El Santíssim Misteri or Descentfrom the Cross, 1251), one of thebest of the period. Former parish

church of Sant Joanipol: reinforcedruins (chevet with three apses andfinely decorated doorway).

Sant Llorenç del Munt. FormerBenedictine monastery, previously ahermitage, at the summit of La Mola(alt. 1104 m.): church (consecrated1064), key work of Lombard Roma-nesque art, in the shape of a Greekcross: octagonal lantern, 3 aisles, 3 apses. Remains of monastery buil-dings. (Borough: Matadepera.)

Sant Miquel del Fai. Former Bene-dictine monastery in a picturesquesetting with cliffs and waterfalls.Church built into a cave in the tradi-tion of troglodyte churches (Roma-nesque façade). Towards the southin the small chapel of Sant Martí delFai, recently restored, mural paint-ings now in the MNAC, have beenreproduced. (Borough: Bigues iRiells.)

Sant Pere de Casserres. FormerBenedictine monastery, above theSan reservoir where extensive res-toration and renovation work hasbeen carried out. Very large and elegant church: 3 aisles, 3 apses,Lombard ornamentation but nosculptures, solid square bell tower.Cloister and other buildings restoredwith former furniture reflecting mo-nastic life. (Borough: Les Masies deRoda.)

Sant Sadurní d’Osomort. Parishchurch (11th C.): nave and Lombard-type apse, large modified bell tower;the 12th C. mural paintings are nowat the MEV.

Sant Sebastià de Montmajor.Parish church (12th C.): nave forminga Greek cross with the transept, 3 apses, bell tower over the crossing.(Borough: Caldes de Montbui.)

Sant Vicenç de Torelló. Remarkableparish church (11-12th C.): nave withtransept and large apse, fine 3-storeyLombard-type bell tower, fully re-stored.

Santa Eugènia de Berga. Remark-able parish church (11-12th C.): nave,transept and large apse, lantern sur-mounted by 3-storey bell tower, doorwith archivolts, columns and capitalsby the School of Ripoll.

Savassona. Church of Sant Pere(11th C. nave and apse, Lombard-type decoration) at the foot of Savas-sona Castle. Nearby small church ofSant Feliuet de Savassona, with pre-Romanesque chevet (horseshoe archand rectangular apse), 10th C. an-thropomorphic graves outside andremains of Iberian village. (Borough:Tavèrnoles.)

Tavèrnoles. Parish church of SantEsteve (c. 1070), modified: nave,Lombard decoration and bell tower inthe same style.

Terrassa. Site of the ancient bish-opric of Egara (mid 5th C.), with 3 highly interesting Visigothic-Roma-nesque churches built close togetherand dating back to the 6-7th C. (latermodified): Santa Maria (in the shapeof a Latin cross, with octagonallantern and dome surmounted by 2-storey bell tower, all 12th C. but withVisigothic chevet, square on the out

side but with horseshoe arch inside);Sant Miquel (square plan and hep-tagonal apse with eight columns fea-turing Roman and Visigoth capitalssupporting the dome, crypt with tre-foil apsidal chapel) and Sant Pere(Visigothic 3-lobed apse with trapezi-form plan, Romanesque church withtransept). The 12th C. alterations arein Lombard style. Exceptional muralpaintings, some 9th C. (Sant Miqueland Santa Maria) or 10th C. (SantPere). In a small apse in Santa Maria,scenes of the martyrdom of SaintThomas à Becket, painted soon afterhis death in 1170. Interesting Gothicretables by Huguet.

Vic. Important cathedral city withmany historic buildings: the Cathe-dral, renovated from 1781 onwards,retains its magnificent Lombard-style, 7-storey bell tower and its cryptwith columns with ancient capitals inso-called Caliphate style (Islamic tra-dition) and 3 aisles. Other buildingsand churches with Romanesque fea-tures. Well endowed Museu Episco-pal, recently rebuilt.

Vilalleons. Church of Santa Maria(11-12th C.): nave, wall and apse withLombard decorations, galilee anddoorway with bell tower above.Baroque retables. (Borough: SantJulià de Vilatorta.)

Vilanova del Pla. Church of SantJaume (11-12th C.) adjoining old farm-house, circular in shape, Lombard-type apse, fine ironwork on door.(Borough: Santa Maria d’Oló.)

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Lluçà. Ironwork , Santa Maria

L’Estany. Capital in the cloister

Ripoll. Detail of the doorway

Ripoll. Capital in the cloisterRipoll. Doorway, Santa Maria

Vic. Cathedral Terrassa. The church of Santa Maria


nesque civil architecture. Medievalbridge over the Fluvià.

Beuda. Parish church of Sant Feliu(12th C.): 3 aisles, 3 correspondingapses, doorway with archivolts,sculpted baptismal font.

Breda. Former Benedictine monas-tery of Sant Salvador (11-12th C.).Church renovated in Gothic times butthe magnificent bell tower (32 m high,5 storeys with Lombard decoration)and parts of the old cloister remain.Part of the ancient parish church ofSanta Maria (now a municipal build-ing) from which a Romanesquewooden statue of the Virgin, venerat-ed at Sant Salvador, originally came,is also Romanesque.

Canapost. Church of Sant Esteve (11-12th C.), made up of 2 adjoining build-ings, one pre-Romanesque (trapezoidapse), the other Romanesque (semi-circular apse); remains of mural paint-ings. (Borough: Forallac.)

Cruïlles. Former Benedictine mo-nastery of Sant Miquel de Cruïlles(11th C.): basilican plan shapedchurch, 3 aisles, Lombard-type dec-oration, remains of mural paintings.

MMaaiinn hhiissttoorriicc bbuuiillddiinnggssBell-lloc d’Aro. Church of SantaMaria (10th C.), modified: nave,chevet with horseshoe arch shapedplan. (Borough: Santa Cristina d’Aro.)

Besalú. Capital of an earldom with itsown dynasty in the 11-12th C. whichhas preserved many historic build-ings. Church of the former Be-nedictine monastery of Sant Pere(12th C.): 3 aisles, apse with ambu-latory inside (5 arches resting oncolumns with sculpted capitals), win-dow over door with small lions in relief at the sides. Church of SantVicenç (12-13th C.): 3 aisles, tran-sept, elegant apse with two small ad-joining apses, door with archivoltsand capitals. Doorway of the churchof Sant Julià (12th C.), once part of ahospital. Beside the castle overlook-ing the town, ruins of the Augustiniancanonry of Santa Maria (12th C.) withthree-apse chevet. Interesting 11-12th C. mikwà (where ritual Jewishablutions were performed). At CanLlaudes or Cornellà, courtyard witharchways, good example of Roma-

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FFrroomm EEmmppoorrddàà aanndd GGaarrrroottxxaa ttoo SSeellvvaa,, vviiaa GGiirroonnaa

Eight kilometres south of La Jonquera is the minor road to Capmany whichmarks the beginning of a picturesque and varied route offering many fine mon-uments and scenery ranging from highly spectacular stretches of coast to theever-changing countryside of the mountainous areas inland.

A small side road from Garriguella runs along the frequently vine-clad coast-line to Vilamaniscle. From here a mountain track, which requires careful driving,takes us to Sant Quirze de Colera, in the centre of a closed valley that is one ofthe most isolated and unusual spots in the Alberes mountains. Sant Pere deRodes, that can be reached via a road from Vilajuïga, is a complete contrast,standing virtually on the crest of the mountain range of the same name. Fromhere one can enjoy breathtaking views over the northern Costa Brava, thepeninsula of Cap de Creus, now a Natural Park, and the white houses of El Portde la Selva nestling in the most sheltered corner of the bay.

Heading towards Palau-saverdera, we arrive at Roses to visit the oldRomanesque church in the Ciutadella. An additional attraction is the view overthe broad sweep of Roses Bay, one of the most open and sunlit seascapes on the Empordà coast. Turning inland, we take a minor road from Castellód’Empúries towards Sant Pere Pescador, alongside the Empordà MarshesNatural Park. From here we proceed to Sant Miquel and Sant Tomàs de Fluvià,which rise above the flat Empordà countryside with its many shades of greenand numerous rows of cypresses that recall the need for protection from the re-freshing but powerful north wind, the tramuntana.

The pleasures of a visit to Peralada and Vilabertran amply justify a slight de-tour on the way to Figueres, the capital of Empordà, with its original Teatre-Museu Dalí. It is here we embark on the second part of our route, leaving flatlandscapes for rugged mountain scenery.

Beyond Navata and Lladó we cross into another comarca, Garrotxa, wherethe Romanesque churches are so numerous that we can select only a few.Besalú, the seat of a former earldom, and the nearby villages of Beuda andPalera, are our first stops. Our route takes us through much beautiful scenery:the basaltic rock cliffs of Castellfollit de la Roca, just beside the road, and thenthe lush vegetation and the series of extinct volcanic craters around the capital,Olot, which are reminders of a distant age of seismic activity.

Sant Joan les Fonts, the garden-like beauty of the Vall de Bianya with itsmany tiny churches, and the road to Sant Esteve d’en Bas, close to the pic-turesque hamlet of Hostalets, are further attractions. On our way to Banyoleswe enjoy the natural beauty of the magnificent beech woods of the Fagedad’en Jordà and the crater of Santa Margarida, as well as the tremendous charmof the medieval village of Santa Pau.

Our visit to Porqueres, opposite the town of Banyoles, affords an excuse todrive nearly all the way round the Banyoles lake. The sight of this large lake (al-most 100 hectares in area) comes as a surprise. Its deep, silent waters andbanks overhung with pensive weeping willows seem to have been put there onpurpose to enhance the beauty of the church.

Time is needed to explore Girona, an important stopping place along ourroute. Besides visiting the main monuments, visitors should stroll through thenarrow streets of the old town, with its Jewish quarter, and admire the newly re-painted backs of the houses of Ballesteries, reflected in the waters of theOnyar.

The road to Cruïlles, Sant Julià de Boada and Canapost takes us through LaBisbal d’Empordà, where good-quality hand-made pottery can be purchased.Between Palamós and Sant Feliu de Guíxols we then travel along one of theprettiest stretches of the Costa Brava, the quiet and elegant residential zone ofS’Agaró contrasting with the cosmopolitan bustle of the big Platja d’Aro touristresort.

We continue along good roads, amid crops, pine groves and above all thecork oak woods and farmhouses that are characteristic of the Selva country-side, until we come to Bell-lloc, in the borough of Santa Cristina d’Aro nearSant Feliu, Santa Coloma de Farners and finally to the idyllic spot of Sant PereCercada (up a pleasant woodland track).

A rather narrow and winding but very scenic road brings us to the villages ofMaçanet de la Selva and Hostalric, the latter surrounded by the imposing re-mains of its walls. Our last stop is Breda, another pottery-manufacturing town,at the foot of the Montseny, where a solidly built Romanesque bell tower risesmajestuously above the housetops.

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Hand of Christ in Majesty,

Sant Climent de Taüll

(1123). MNAC

Sant Tomàs de Fluvià. The Last Supper

Sant Feliu de Guíxols. “Porta Ferrada”

Girona. Sant Pere de Galligants

suggested route

mountain tracks


Tourist Offices

views


A fine figure of Christ in Majesty onthe Cross and an interesting paintedbaldachin beam now at the MAGcame from here. (Borough: Cruïlles,Monells i Sant Sadurní de l’Heura.)

Girona. Important capital in Caro-lingian times, seat of an earldom andof a large and powerful diocese,many historic buildings. Cathedral:Baroque façade and Gothic nave.Romanesque features include: mag-nificent Torre de Carlemany (11th C.5-storey Lombard-type bell tower),12th C. cloister (one of the mostbeautiful in Catalonia, with sculptedcapitals and friezes showing Biblicalscenes and ornamental motifs), themain altar stone and so-called“Charlemagne’s chair” made frommarble (11th C.). Remarkable ex-hibits in nearby museums: TCG(Tapestry of the Creation) and MAG.Former 12th C. monastery of SantPere de Galligants: church (nowArcheological Museum) with 3 aisles,4-apse chevet, octagonal bell tower,magnificent cloister with capitals(Biblical scenes and figurative mo-tifs). Small church of Sant Nicolau(nave, large lantern, small transeptand 3 apses), once attached to SantPere. The Arab Baths, built in Muslimand Jewish tradition, are from lateRomanesque times (13th C.); notethe remarkable octagonal buildingand external lantern. La Fontanad’Or: good example of Romanesquecivil art.

Lladó. Former Augustinian canonryof Santa Maria: remarkable 12th C.church with basilican plan, 3 aisles, 3 apses, doorway with richly deco-rated archivolts, tympanum and lin-tel, Corinthian capitals on columns,fine window, remains of recently re-stored monastery buildings.

Navata. Former parish church ofSant Pere (12th C.): nave and apse,remarkable doorway with archivolts,tympanum (Lamb of God), Corinthiancapitals (one with mythical animals),Romanesque ironwork and remainsof mural paintings.

Palau-saverdera. Parish church ofSant Joan (11th C.): 3 aisles, 3 apses,with Lombard-type decorations.

Peralada. Town with an interestingpast and many historic buildings.Cloister of the old convent of SantDomènec (12-13th C.), standingalone in the town centre (the conventwas demolished): columns and high-ly expressive capitals showing Bi-blical scenes, animals, etc.

Porqueres. Parish church of SantaMaria (consecrated 1132), nearBanyoles lake: interesting buildingwith nave, 3-lobed apse inside, doorwith 3 horseshoe arches and carvedcapitals (plant and animal designs),wall belfry; very interesting capitalson triumphal arch.

Roses. In the Ciutadella (within thearea of the ancient Greek colony ofRhode, archeological remains) ruinsof the church of the former Bene-dictine monastery of Santa Maria

(11th C.), with Lombard-type centralapse.

Sant Esteve d’en Bas. Church (12th C.modified): nave, fine sculptures (capi-tals, tympanum) by the School ofRipoll. (Borough: La Vall d’en Bas.)

Sant Feliu de Guíxols. FormerBenedictine monastery: opposite themainly Gothic church stands the fa-mous Porta Ferrada (probably the en-trance to the 10th C. pre-Romanesquebuilding) with 3 horseshoe arches oncylindrical columns and, on top, agallery with three light windows, small-er arches and later Lombard-typefrieze. Two Romanesque towers on ei-ther side of the church (Torre del Fumand Torre del Corn).

Sant Joan les Fonts. Former Be-nedictine monastery (12th C.): churchwith 3 aisles and well decorated aps-es, some carved capitals, baptismalfont with relief sculptures. CasaJuvinyà, 11-12th C. fortified mansion,one of the oldest and best-preservedRomanesque civil monuments inCatalonia.

Sant Julià de Boada. Pre-Roma-nesque church, well preserved andrestored; nave divided by a thickhorseshoe arch, trapeziform apse, tri-umphal arch also horseshoe shaped.Remains of later mural paintings.(Borough: Palau-sator.)

Sant Miquel de Fluvià. FormerBenedictine monastery (11th C.):church with 3 aisles, large transept, 3 Lombard-type apses, pillars andhalf columns inside with fine capi-tals (plants, figures and birds) in thetradition of Sant Pere de Rodes;12th C. bell tower standing apart,with 3 storeys and Lombard decora-tion. Not far away, former priory ofSant Tomàs de Fluvià (Borough:Torroella de Fluvià), with 11th C.church, nave, transept and 3 apses.Interesting mural paintings have re-cently been discovered here and re-stored.

Sant Pere Cercada. FormerAugustinian canonry: 13th C. church(a good example of late Roma-nesque) in the shape of a Latincross, with lantern and 3 apsesopening onto the transept, door andwindows with archivolts, columnsand capitals. (Borough: Santa Colo-ma de Farners.)

Sant Pere de Rodes. Former Bene-dictine monastery, one of the mostdeservedly famous in Catalonia onaccount of its architectural impor-tance and magnificent location over-looking the Cap de Creus peninsulaand Gulf of Lion. Church probably10-11th C. but still in pre-Romanesque tradition: 3 very unevenaisles separated by pillars and

columns standing on high bases,transept with central apse and 2smaller apses, ambulatory with alter-nating pillars, crypt; interesting capi-tals, some Corinthian (zoomorphicheads), some polygonal (geometricaldesigns). Square 3-storey Lombard-type 12th C. bell tower (27 m high).Upper doister partially restored andrebuilt; and part of lower cloister re-cently discovered (with remains ofmural paintings); remains of monas-tery buildings and fortifications (largekeep). Extensive restoration has beencompleted: church floor repaved,features of the former door repro-duced on the galilee, wall paintings inambulatory, access to crypt, sigu-posted tour of buildings. On the nearby car park, remarkable pre-Roma-nesque church of Santa Helena, enlarged in Romanesque times andrecently restored, among remains offormer village (Borough: El Port de la Selva.)

Sant Quirze de Colera. FormerBenedictine monastery: 11th C. basi-lican plan church with three aisles,transept and three Lombard-typeapses; remains of earlier church,cloister and other fortifications. Thebuilding has been cleaned up and reinforced and the access road fromRabós improved. Small former parishchurch of Santa Maria de Colera with

nave and apse (12th C.). (Borough:Rabós d’Empordà.)

El Sant Sepulcre de Palera. FormerBenedictine priory: large austere11th C. church with 3 aisles and vaultresting on pillars. (Borough: Beuda.)

Santa Coloma de Farners. Farnerscastle (12th C), solid walls and mag-nificent cylindrical tower risingabove precinct. Small church of LaMare de Déu de Farners (Roma-nesque chevet) at the foot of the castle.

Santa Pau. In the volcanic region ofOlot. Interesting medieval quarter(square with archways —Plaça delFiral dels Bous— and castle).Nearby small Romanesque church-es of Sant Martí Vell and the shrineof Els Arcs.

Vilabertran. Former Augustiniancanonry of Santa Maria: remarkablegroup of historic buildings includingbasilican plan church (11-12th C.)with 3 aisles, 3 apses opening ontotransept, embedded pillars andcolumns inside, slender Lombard-type 3-storey square bell tower; 12th C.cloister with columns, pillars andcapitals (plant motifs); 12-13th C.monastery buildings (chapter house,sacristy, wine-cellar) beside other later Gothic buildings. The buildingshave been restored.

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Breda. Sant Salvador The Cruïlles beam (MAG)

Sant Pere de Rodes

Girona. Tower of Carlemany Vilabertran. Santa Maria Besalú. Façade, Sant Pere


BarcelonaMuseu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC). In the Palau Nacional deMontjuïc (built in 1929, museum since 1934). Totally redesigned as of 1986 un-der the direction of the architect Gae Aulenti, still to be completed. TheRomanesque art section is considered one of the best in the world, especiallyon account of the various 11-13th C. mural paintings from the Catalan Pyrenees(Taüll-Sant Climent and Santa Maria, Boí, Pedret, Sorpe, Santa Maria d’Àneu,Sant Pere del Burgal, Esterri de Cardós, Estaon, Andorra, La Seu d’Urgell, etc.)and from the Palau Aguilar in Barcelona. Remarkable collections of antependia(from Tavèrnoles, Avià, Mosoll, Ix, Soriguerola, Baltarga, Betesa, Gia, etc.),sculptures in wood (Majestat Batlló, antependium from Taüll, Descent from theCross from Erill la Vall, statues of the Virgin such as that from Durro, etc.), sculp-tures in stone (capitals from Camarasa); enamel and liturgical objects. ImportantGothic section.

GironaTresor de la Catedral de Girona (TCG). Adjoining the cathedral itself. Exhibitsinclude the Beatus of Girona (10th C. commentaries on the Apocalypse withexquisite illuminations), the famous Creation Tapestry (11-12th C. —the finestsurviving piece of Catalan Romanesque textile art), and a 12th C. woodenstatue of the Virgin, La Mare de Déu de la Catedral, etc.

Museu d’Art de Girona (MAG). Formerly Museu Episcopal, in the Palau delBisbe. Important mural paintings (from Pedrinyà, Bellcaire d’Empordà, SantJulià de Boada, etc.), antependia, the famous Cruïlles Beam (on which an inter-esting procession of monks and acolytes is painted), good collections ofsculptures in wood (Christ in Majesty on the Cross from Sant Joan les Fontsand from Cruïlles, statues of the Virgin, etc.), sculptures in stone (relief and cap-itals) and gold and silverware (11-12th C. portable silver altar and small reli-quary, both from Sant Pere de Rodes, etc.).

La Seu d’UrgellMuseu Diocesa d’Urgell (MDU). In the Pietat church in the Cathedral cloisterand, since 1988, in the Casa del Deganat. Exhibits include the famous Beatus ofLa Seu d’Urgell (10th C. beautifully illuminated manuscript of Mozarabic origincontaining commentaries on the Apocalypse), mural paintings such as thosefrom València d’Àneu or Estaon, antependia including those from Durro, woodenstatues like the lovely Virgin from Ginestarre, stone relief and capitals, gold andsilverware, etc. Also religious works of art from the Gothic period and later.

SolsonaMuseu Diocesà i Comarcal (MDS). Located in the Bishop’s Palace, near theCathedral, and finely renovated. Houses most of the mural paintings from SantQuirze de Pedret (10th C. works, like the famous Orant figure, and 12th C.works —scenes from the Apocalypse, martyrdom of Saints Quiricus and Julita,fantastic figures, etc.); also the mural paintings from Sant Pau de Casserres(with splendid angels playing musical instruments), various antependia (sidepanels from Sagàs) and retables (Sant Jaume de Frontanyà), important sculp-tures in stone (capitals, carved columns, reliefs, some from the originalCathedral buildings) and sculptures in wood (statues of the Virgin, etc.).Interesting archeological section.

VicMuseu Episcopal de Vic (MEV). In a building near the Cathedral. Rebuildingbegan in 1997 on plans by F. Correa and A. Milà. The second largest collectionof Catalan Romanesque art including several 11th-12th C. mural paintingsfrom Sant Sadurní d’Osormort, El Brull, Sant Martí Sescorts, La Seu d’Urgell,etc., an outstanding collection of antependia (from Lluçà, Espinelves, Vidrà,Sant Sadurní de Rotgers, monastery of El Coll, Sant Llorenç Dosmunts, Sagàs,etc.). Works of sculpture include the famous Descent from the Cross from Erillla Vall (part of which is in Barcelona), interesting figures of Christ in Majesty onthe Cross and Christ Seated, wooden statues of the Virgin, altar stones, stonerelief and capitals, and remarkable cloths (Hispanic-Arab Witches Tapestry),gold and silverware, enamel, ironwork from doors, reliquaris, etc.

Romanesque Art in the museums

MAG. Portable altar from Sant Pere de Rodes MDS. Thurible from Pampe (Solsonès)

TCG. The Creation Tapestry

MNAC. Sant Climent de Taüll

MNAC. Majestat Batlló (Olot region) MEV. Virgin of Veciana (Anoia)

© Generalitat de Catalunya. Departament d’Innovació, Universitats i Empresa. Turisme deCatalunya. Prepared by: Servei d’Informació i Difusió Turística. Texts: Antoni Pladevall i Fontand Francesc Gurri i Serra Translated by: Jacqueline Hall (Discobole). Design by: Saura-Torrente. Photographs: Albert Adell, Oriol Alamany, Pere Català Roca, Ernest Costa, FrancescGomà, Ramon Manent, Joan Mercader, Jordi Nieva, Jordi Pareto, Rambol, Joan Tous, FrancescTur, Museu de Terrasa and Toni Vidal. Printed by: Rotocayfo Quebecor. D.L.: B-32073-2008

Hands of Saint John and

the Virgin, antependium,

Baltarga (Cerdanya,

circa 1195). MNAC

Other Museums. In Barcelona, otherimportant works of Romanesque artare in the Museu Diocesà in the PiaAlmoina building near the Cathedral,and in the Museu Marès (in the oldCasa de la Canonja). Other importantmuseums are Museu Diocesà deLleida, Museu Diocesà de Tarragona(with interesting works, aroundCathedral cloister), Museu de laCatedral de Tortosa, Museu delCastell de Peralada (reliefs and capi-tals from Sant Pere de Rodes), Museude Vilafranca del Penedès, Museu del’Empordà in Figueres, Museu Maricelde Mar in Sitges and others.Important works of CatalanRomanesque art are also to be foundin certain foreign museums such asThe Cloisters in New York, theMuseum of Fine Arts in Boston, theBritish Museum in London, theMuseum of Fine Arts in Maryland, etc.Some Romanesque works of art arein private collections.

Generalitat de CatalunyaGovernment of CataloniaMinistry of Innovation,Universities and Enterprise


discovering romanesque art in catalonia filetaüll. sant climent apostles antependium (from the...

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