garment design & construction 1 - waistline finishes

A Technical Foundation - Woman's Wear Pattern Cutting

Waistline Finishes

Waistline Finishes

Waistline around ‘belly button’

Low Waist 3-4cm under waistline MAXIMUM 10cm

Hipline 20cm under waistline

A Technical Foundation - Women's Wear Pattern Cutting: Waistline Finishes

Waistband Finishes 1. Straight waistband – this sits on top of the skirt or trouser block at

the waistline. It can be made as a straight line pattern2. Low waistband is cut out of the skirt or trouser block and is shaped

to fit your body curves. Waist can be lowered a maximum of 10cm,be careful as the garment needs to stay up and not fall down.3-4cm is a common low waist.

3. Facing is hidden inside and gives a clean finish on the outside4. Yoke is the same pattern cutting as a low waistband but is bigger

than 8cm.


Sewing Techniques - shows how to sew the different waist finishes step by step

ONLINE RESOURCES

You Tube = Tanya Dove https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o9Tk5gzNRgg

https://independent.academia.edu/TanyaDove


Equipment Pattern paper, ruler with a straight and curved edge Pencil, (rubber)


Straight Waistband


PLAN Create a rectangle. Length = waist length PLUS button extension Width = twice the finished width

PATTERN Add 1cm seam allowance around all edges


Button extension is on the BACK side, or if at the centre back it is on the RIGHT side.

Extension has the button attached. Other side has the button hole.


Facing


FACING PLAN

A Facing sits underneath the garment and is used on skirts, trousers, necklines and armholes.

PLAN – draw the facing width.


FACING PATTERN

A facing pattern reaches the top edge and sits ‘loose’ on the inside of the garment.

There is no need to add seam allowance to the loose edge as it is not stitched to anything. Finish by overlocking or binding.

Garment top edge is to the top, skirt showing to the waistline where the facing sits on the inside.


A facing is a clean top edge finish with no stitch lines.


Low Waistband Low waistbands shape around the body and have a pattern inside and outside, showing a seam line.


PLAN Drop the waistline position. Picture shows 3cm under the natural waistline position. Then draw in waistband width.


PATTERN Waistband is CUT 2 on fold. One on the inside and one on the outside.

Skirt pattern stops underneath the waistband.

Front dart remaining is very small so can be moved into the side seam and not used. ** Rule of thumb – if a dart is smaller than 1cm wide and 5cm long it can be moved into side seam, shaping more and therefore not used.


Binding A binding is a narrow strip of fabric sewn around an edge.

It wraps over the edge and therefore seam allowance is not required on the garment it is being attached too.

Generally seen on blouses, necklines and armholes as it is a fine small finish.


Binding is a strip of fabric 4 X finished width (to finish 1cm cut 4cm wide). It is cut on the BIAS grain line to give stretch and ease when sewn onto an edge. It is a neat small finish and commonly used on women’s eveningwear necklines and armholes.

Length = length of seam where you are sewing plus 1cm seam each end to fold inside to finish.


Invisible Zipper

• Invisible zippers are commonly seen on skirts and dresses, andsome trouser designs.

• Finished length for zips is 2cm ABOVE hip line position. Ifwaistline is lowered zip would be shorter. There is no need for azip to be longer than this position to fit the garment on.

• They are sewn on the LEFT side of the body for right handedpeople to use.

• See Sewing Techniques for how to sew an invisible zipper.


Fly Front Fly fronts are commonly seen on jeans and casual trousers. They require two additional pattern pieces for the zipper to be attached into.


FLY FRONT is shaped and creates the topstitched line on the outside of the garment. 3-3.5cm width is standard. Cut 1 piece only.

FLY BACK is attached behind the closure with the zip being sewn in between the fly back and centre front pattern piece. Cut one piece on fold for the finished edge.

Example shows a shaped waistband with fly front.

Finished length is 2cm above hipline.


A Technical Foundation, Women’s Wear Pattern Cutting · ISBN-10: 1849634718

· ISBN-13: 978-1849634717

Concept to Creation; The Design Process · ISBN-10: 1849635730

· ISBN-13: 978-1849635738

A Technical Foundation - Menswear Pattern Cutting · ISBN-10: 1784551236

· ISBN-13: 978-1784551230

garment design & construction 1 - waistline finishes

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