FASH 15 textiles

synthetic fibers

synthetic fibers

the polymers for synthetic fibers are synthesized or made from small simple molecules (not naturally occurring)

often petroleum-based chemicals (petrochemicals) using complex procedures—less than 1% of total use per year

different chemical compounds used to produce nylon, polyester, olefin & acrylic

synthetic fibers—common properties

heat sensitivity —fibers that soften or melt with heat; differ in their level of sensitivity; use care washing, ironing & dry cleaning

chemical resistance —fibers do not absorb water, solvents, acids, or bases; resist soiling; difficult to dye

piling —formation of tiny balls (tangled fiber ends) on fabric surface due to abrasion; strength of fibers keeps balls from falling off naturally

synthetic fibers—common properties

static electricity—generated by friction; more rapid in cold, dry regions; attracts dust, soil, & lint—brushing to remove increases problem

oleophilic—high affinity for oils & greases

synthetic fibers—common manufacturing processes: melt spinning

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nr8cbpAt9oQ

participation activity:melt spinning

…working in groups of 4, collect the necessary equipment

•tweezers•candle•matches

…once you have set up your “lab”carefully take turns trying out melt spinning

•heat the fabric until some melts•quickly draw out the melt with tweezers

HOW UNIFORM ARE YOUR “FIBERS”?

•polyester fabric (4 pieces)•cup of water•foil

synthetic fibers—common manufacturing processes

drawing—aligns molecules in more parallel, crystalline, oriented arrangement; drawn to develop desirable strength, pliability, toughness & elasticity

heat setting—uses heat to stabilize the shape & dimensions of yarns or fabric; after cooling, fabric/ yarn stable at heat lower than at which it was set

synthetic fibers—identification

burn tests used to identify presence of some; not good for blends or fibers that are flame-retardant or heat resistant—does not identify specifics

microscopic appearance not reliable because so easily modified

solubility tests only procedure that differentiate among synthetics

synthetic fibers—common modificationsfiber shape & size

because of melt-spinning process, changing cross-sectional shape is relatively easy—spinneret hole

hollow fibers provide better thermal properties & lighter weight, hide soil

•trilobal, pentalobal, & multilobal fibers used in apparel & interiors•flatribbon fibers used in formalwear •channel fibers used in activewear

synthetic fibers—common modifications

low-piling fibers—engineered to minimize pill formation; decreases fiber’s flex life

high-tenacity fibers—produced by combining drawing with molecular-chain-length modifications; tow ropes, air bags, parachute cords

low-elongation fibers—stretch less under force, but as strong as regular fibers; apparel & interior items that receive hard use—work apparel & heavy-duty upholstery

synthetic fibers—nylon

the first synthetic fiber—1939 by DuPont

introduced to public in women’s hosiery

unlike any fiber in use at the time—stronger, more abrasion resistant, excellent elasticity, heat set, lightweight, chemical resistant

also had drawbacks—static buildup, poor hand, poor comfort on skin, low resistance to sunlight

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFEHKRdXb9Y&feature=related

synthetic fibers—nylon

production—made from various substances; numbers after name indicate # of carbon atoms in starting materials nylon 6,6

physical structure—available in multifilament, monofilament, staple in a variety of lengths & tow in a wide range of deniers & shapes, as partially drawn or completely finished filaments

produced in bright, semi-dull & dull lusters with varying degrees of strength

synthetic fibers—nylon

physical structure

synthetic fibers—properties of nylon

aesthetics—smooth, lightweight, high strength; can be lustrous, semi-lustrous, or dull; varied drape depending upon use; voids & flat sides scatter light & hide soil

durability—outstanding durability; excellent strength & high elongation; excellent abrasion resistance

comfort—not as comfortable to wear as natural fibers; great for wind- and water-resistant jackets

synthetic fibers—properties of nylon

appearance retention—•highly resilient due to heat-setting; pleats, creases & embossed designs become integral•compressional resiliency important in carpets•shrinkage resistance high due to heat set & low absorbency

care—•hot water may cause permanent wrinkling but can help remove oily stains•color scavenger•dries quickly•resistant to mildew, insects & fungi; low sunlight resistance

synthetic fibers—nylon environmental concerns & sustainability

•all concerns associated with petrochemicals—made from by-products (waste)•production consumes more energy than polyester or cotton•nitrous oxide is emitted from production facilities•processing uses few cleaning chemicals•less water, salt & acid used for dyeing•recycling reasonable—carpet recycled to a nylon 6 raw material or mixed with plastic or concrete; performance enhancing additives pose challenge

synthetic fibers—nylon environmental concerns & sustainability

synthetic fibers—nylon uses

most important—carpets

apparel:•lingerie, hosiery, socks•sporting goods—tents, sleeping bags, •average car uses 25 lbs of fiber—upholstery, carpet, head liners, door & visor trims•umbrellas, clotheslines, toothbrush, hair brush•luggage, backpacks

synthetic fibers—types & kinds of nylon

synthetic fibers—polyester

first produced in England—introduced in the US in 1951 by DuPont

most widely used synthetic—“workhorse”

filament extremely versatile while staple can be blended with many other fibers—versatility in blending is unique advantage

produced by reacting dicarboxylic acid with dihydric alcohol—fibers are melt-spun & hot-drawn

synthetic fibers—physical structure of polyester

produced in many types:filaments—high- or regular-tenacity; bright or delustered; white or solution-dyed; regular or low-piling

generally smooth rodlike fibers with circular cross-section

other cross-sections:trilobal, octolobal, oval, hollow, voided, hexalobal, pentalobal (star shaped)

synthetic fibers—properties of polyester

aesthetics—blend well, maintaining natural fiber look & texture; microfibers particularly suited to high-fashion because of versatility & durability

durability—excellent abrasion resistance & strength; better sunlight resistance

comfort—poor absorbency lowers comfort factor; finishes & fiber modifications increase comfort

appearance retention—generally wrinkle resistant except when set by body heat and moisture

care—wash warm, machine dry medium heat, remove promptly, hang, touch up with steam

synthetic fibers—polyester environmental concerns & sustainability

•similar to nylon—petrochemicals •production energy less than nylon more than cotton•uses small amounts of water during production•uses toxic catalytic agents that contaminate soil & water—long term environmental impact•extensively recycled—creates significantly less pollution than creating virgin fibers

synthetic fibers—polyester uses

most widely used MF in US

•woven fabrics in apparel & interiors•knitted fabrics •fiberfill•nonwoven or fiberweb fabrics•tirecord•carpets•technical hoses, belts, •artificial arteries, veins & hearts

synthetic fibers—types & kinds of polyester

synthetic fibers—olefin

by 1957 Italy was producing olefin, US in 1960

has a combination of properties that makes it good for interiors, apparel that does not need ironing & technical uses

production —two processes; high-pressure—film & molded materials & low-pressure—textile use

melt-spun into water or cool air & cold drawn to six times its spun length—crystallizes very rapidly

gel spinning—dissolved polyethylene forms viscous gel in solvent; produces very high-strength fibers

synthetic fibers—olefin

physical structure—produced as monofilament, multifilament, stapled fiber, tow, and slit or fibrillated film yarns

fibers are colorless, often round in cross-section & have slightly waxy feel; cross section modified according to end use

synthetic fibers—properties of olefin

aesthetics—usually produced with medium luster & smooth texture; many sizes available; waxy hand; drape varied according to end use

durability—produced with different strengths according to end use; very durable & strong, lightweight; excellent resistance to chemicals

comfort—nonabsorbent; excellent wicking; good heat retention

appearance retention—excellent resiliency & recovers quickly from wrinkling

synthetic fibers—properties of olefin

care—•easy-care characteristics; suitable for a number of end uses•dry quickly•dry cleaning not recommended due to solvents•waterborne stains no problem•does not pick up color •oily stains are extremely difficult to remove•excess heat cause fiber to shrink & melt•excellent resistance to acids, alkalis, insects & microorganisms

synthetic fibers—olefin environmental concerns & sustainability

•similar to nylon—petrochemicals •easier to recycle than most fibers—used in packaging materials•seldom dyed•used in many products that protect environment—

•erosion control fabrics•weed barrier fabrics•protective covers for vegetables & flowers•hazardous waste transport container liners

synthetic fibers—olefin uses

apparel—underwear, socks, sweaters, glove liners; hosiery, saris, swimwear, wind- water- and cold-barriers in active & outdoor wear; Thinsulate

interior textiles—carpeting, upholstery, draperies & slipcovers; almost completely replaced jute as carpet backing; nonwoven fabrics—furniture webbing; mattress covers

technical—geotextiles, roadbed-support & stabilizer fabrics, car & boat interiors, boat

synthetic fibers—types & kinds of olefin

synthetic fibers—acrylic

first made in Germany in 1893

marketed frequently as being wool-like

production—some dry- or solvent-spun, others wet-spun

physical structure—cross-sectional shape varies according to spinning method

synthetic fibers—properties of acrylic

aesthetics—attractive & have soft, pleasant hand; bulky spun yarns are usually textured to be wool-like; matte luster; almost always staple fibers

durability—not as durable as nylon, polyester or olefin; satisfactory for apparel & interiors—withstand reasonable abrasion; piling can be noticeable

comfort—moderately comfortable because of irregular surface, low absorbency, lightweight, wicks well

synthetic fibers—properties of acrylic

appearance retention—moderate resiliency & recovery from bending—resist wrinkling; shrink when exposed to high temps & steam; cannot be heat-set; solution dyed colors are permanent

care—especially important to follow care label instructions with acrylic; care varies due to modifications or blends

synthetic fibers—acrylic environmental concerns & sustainability

•resistant to natural sources of degradation•production chemical require significant processing•recycling of solvents used in spinning is necessary to minimize environmental impact•wet-spun require washing & drying to remove chemicals•used more energy & water than polyester•not recycled

synthetic fibers—acrylic uses

relatively minor fiber in terms of use—mostly apparel, some interiors & technical

•fleece fabrics, sweaters, socks•pile fabrics & faux furs•craft yarns•upholstery fabrics•drapery fabrics•blankets•carpets & rugs•awnings, tarps, luggage, boat covers•outdoor furniture, tents, filtration fabrics

synthetic fibers—types & kinds of acrylic