latitudes usa 4 2015

LatitudesSailing the

“Loop”

Summer2015

ARC EUROPE & ARC USA47CARIBBEAN

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BUYING A BLUEWATER BOAT30

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ALL THAT IS

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If it’s under sail, you’ll find it in SAIL Magazine. SAIL’s comprehensive commitment to the sailing lifestyle has made it the most widely-read sailing publication in the world. That’s because SAIL understands the passion their audience has for sailing.

The pages of SAIL reflect the total sailing experience. We cover every aspect of sailing—be it insights on long-range cruising, advice on trouble-shooting problems with diesel engines, daysailing with the family, racing around the buoys, venturing into foreign ports or the latest on marine electronics. Quite simply, SAIL is designed to help readers better enjoy the sailing lifestyle.SAIL is an essential companion for sailing enthusiasts.

Since 1970, we have been at the forefront of the sport with compelling editorial content designed to fuel the passion of the active sailor who owns a 25–70ft sailboat.

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Only a few offshore sailing events in the world offer the spirit that we like to refer to as the Lagoon attitude: A great ambiance and an unforgettable experience, with the benefits of a first class organization in terms of prepa-ration and safety. Lagoon is proud to be a partner of the Caribbean 1500!

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www.worldcruising.com LATITUDES

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ContentsViewpointForeword by Andrew Bishop, MD of World Cruising Club

Club NewsNews and events from World Cruising Club and our Corporate Members

Rally NewsRound up of rallies

Events DiaryBoatshows, Forums, Seminars and Rallies taking place in 2016

Caribbean CallingAndy Schell follows the fleet south to Nanny Cay, British Virgin Islands

Offshore to the BahamasA new destination

Buying a Bluewater Boatby Forbes Horton

Heading Home with ARCMeet the US and Canadian crews sailing with the world’s largest transocean rally

Setting off on the voyage of a lifetimeWorld ARC 2015 sets sail

World ARC PioneersSanta Marta hosts circumnavigators’ visit to Colombia

Sailing the “Loop”with ARC DelMarVa

ARC Europe + ARC USAA bumper year for our Spring rallies

noonsite.comNews updates from the cruising sailor’s information site

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34 Chesapeake Sailmakers

14 CNB Yachts

3 Discovery Yachts

55 Elvstrom Sails

14 Forbes Horton Yacht Sales

2 Gill

38 Horizon

22 Hydrovane

38 Imray

55 J/World

34 Jeanneau

17 Lagoon

6 Mobmat

26 MRP Refits

52 Nanny Cay

4 Ocean Marine Yacht Centre

9 Ocean Safety

24 OCL

52 Pantaenius America Ltd

54 Port Annapolis Marina

26 Raymarine

56 Sail Magazine

6 Santa Marta Marina

44 watt&sea

8 WRI

24 YB Tracking

List of Advertisers

Only a few offshore sailing events in the world offer the spirit that we like to refer to as the Lagoon attitude: A great ambiance and an unforgettable experience, with the benefits of a first class organization in terms of prepa-ration and safety. Lagoon is proud to be a partner of the Caribbean 1500!

www.cata-lagoon.com

Lagoon supports the Caribbean 1500 Rally

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Lagoon_Rally1500_2013.indd 1 25/01/13 11:24

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EditorJeremy Wyatt

Deputy EditorSarah Collins

ContributorsAndrew Bishop Lyall Burgess Forbes Horton Trish Jenkins Andy Schell

Photography CreditsJohny Buraca Suzana Buraca Mia Karlsson James Mitchell SpinSheet Magazine Andy Schell Claire Pengelly Crew of Asolare Crew of Breezy Crew of Callinectes Crew of Euro Trash Girl Crew of Second Wind And to all other yacht crews who submitted photographs!

Cover Imageby Dan Phelps

DesignAaron Rudd Creative www.aaronrudd.co.uk

Publisher World Cruising Club 120 High Street, Cowes PO31 7AX, UK

Tel: +44 (0)1983 296060 Email: [email protected]

Websites: worldcruising.com noonsite.com oceancrewlink.com

In April seventeen yachts sailed into Rodney Bay, Saint Lucia to complete their circumnavigation with World ARC; it was a special moment for all the participants, especially those who as a result qualified as circumnavigators. Several American participants were amongst them, including Charles and Cathy Simon on the Taswell 58, Celebrate, who have been enthusiastically promoting the benefits of a circumnavigation with the rally to other sailors since getting home to Annapolis. As the rally now has a Caribbean start every year, there is plenty of room for boats to join us!

New for this year was that as one World ARC rally was finishing, another was getting under way. As the 2015 fleet set off from Saint Lucia, the previous year’s fleet sailed from Cape Town across the South Atlantic to Brazil, then onto Grenada to cruise the Caribbean, and finally, after sixteen months and some 25,000 miles, into Rodney Bay. As the year has progressed whilst running one rally, we have also transitioned from finishing a rally to planning for the next, which will start in January 2016.

Listening to feedback from our participants is incredibly important, and how we learn to improve the rallies that we organise for those that follow on future editions. Having listened to the recent circumnavigators two things came across loud and clear, the first being about preparation of their yachts. Preparation is key to the success of any passage, never more so than a circumnavigation; thorough preparation of spares and equipment carried saves time and frustration. In the words of one skipper “If you are thinking you should replace it before you leave, then do it”.

Places you visit will not always be what you expected, with some worse, some better; don’t let what you hear put you off one way or the other – visit them to make up your own mind! Having said that, for the route of World ARC we have made some changes based on recent experiences; the fleet now departs French Polynesia from Raiatea, instead of Bora Bora, and the stopover in Indonesia is now on Lombok, instead of Bali. Our first visit to Santa Marta Colombia, on the Caribbean coast of South American, went extremely well and will now be a regular port on the route.

We were all saddened to hear of the devastation caused in Vanuatu by Cyclone Pam; our appeal fund raised close to $50,000 and helped marine tourism businesses to recover and prepare for their season. The World ARC yachts then stocked up on much needed supplies which they delivered during their visit to Tanna in July. Seeing the wider sailing community come together to help has been truly heart-warming, and their support much appreciated by all the communities they have been able to help. Our thanks to you all.

This year is the 30th edition of the ARC, and over the years there have been so many stories; we plan to commemorate this milestone with a history of the ARC, which will be published in early 2016. Those of you have taken part in previous years will be remembered, and those sailing this year will enjoy participating in this the 30th edition, as it’s going to be a very special event.

Wishing you all happy sailing!

Andrew Bishop Managing Director, World Cruising Club

Viewpoint

“World Cruising Club is about encouraging sailors to extend their cruising boundaries”Andrew Bishop, Managing Director

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LATITUDES Summer 2015

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Club NewsA round-up of news from World Cruising Club and supporters Discovery Yachts

New Models LaunchedTempted to set off on the adventure of a lifetime? Talk to bluewater experts Discovery Yachts whether you are planning to island hop, cruise the Med, or head off across the world’s oceans. Discovery Yachts was founded in the 1990’s with a mission to create the world’s most perfect bluewater cruising yachts. They are designed to take two people around the world in safety and comfort, paying particularly attention to ease of handling at sea and in the marina. Nearly 20 years on, Discovery now have an highly experienced team of in-house naval architects, designers and expert craftsmen based in their own shipyard, creating exceptional yachts with high levels of customisation specific to each owner’s needs and requirements. Everyone at Discovery shares in the dream that is bluewater sailing, and are proud to deliver an exceptional customer care service to owners wherever they are.

Two new models have been launched for 2015. The Discovery 55 Mk.II is an evolution of the original 55 that is still widely accepted as the “go-to” bluewater cruising yacht. The new Discovery 58, launched in January at Boot Dusseldorf, offers the option of single or twin wheel steering and 3 or 4 cabin layout. Owning a Discovery is the ultimate experience of a lifetime. Get started today with a tour of the Discovery Yachts shipyard in Southampton, UK by calling +44 (0)23 8086 5555 or visit www.discoveryyachts.com

Welcome to Forbes Horton Yachts

Welcome to Fawcett Boat Supplies & Forbes Horton Yacht Sales – New World Cruising Club USA Corporate MembersTwo Annapolis-based companies have joined us as Corporate Members with World Cruising Club USA this year. Fawcett Boat Supplies, a local marina chandlery servicing the Annapolis area for several decades, is the new official chandlery of all USA-based rallies. Their niche has been providing high-quality marine parts and equipment sold by knowledgeable staff – all of their employees are sailors, and most of them are long-term liveaboard cruisers. If you ask for advice in Fawcett’s, you’ll know you’ll be getting the right answer!

Forbes Horton Yacht Sales are the premier brokers of bluewater sailing yachts in Annapolis. As yacht brokers based in Annapolis, MD, Forbes Yachts have had to travel further and more often to find quality power and blue water sailing yachts for their buyers. Their yacht brokers have traveled to

New England, Florida and all over the Mid Atlantic recently in order to find quality listings. The firming financial market trend and lack of brokerage inventory, specifically with regards to blue water boats, has caused prices to firm along the entire Mid Atlantic making Annapolis a perfect place to sell your boat. As yacht brokers in Annapolis, MD, we work hard not to just put your boat on the market by simply hanging a sign on the rail. We study the trends, inform our clients and put our listings in the market. At first glance, there seem to be many choices for yacht brokerage representation when it comes to selling your blue water sailboat or your powerboat. Give us a call today and we will prove that there is only one.

See page 30 for Forbes article on buying a bluewater sailboat.

www.worldcruising.com CLUB NEWS

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Mactra Marine – Watermakers top tips

Ocean Safety partner with Revere Supply for Annapolis Boat Show

New to the World Cruising Club Team- Welcome to StefanoWe are pleased to welcome Stefano Palumbo, appointed as World ARC Event Manager who will take the reins of the round the world rally from January. Currently based in Italy, Stefano has worked in sailing schools, initially as an instructor, and more recently as the CEO of two leading multi discipline schools in Italy. Stefano started his sailing career as a delivery skipper, is a commercially endorsed RYA Ocean Yachtmaster Offshore, and RYA Racing and Senior Instructor; he lived and worked in England from 1991-2002. He brings a broad wealth of commercial and marine knowledge to World Cruising Club and is looking forward to helping to aspiring circumnavigators achieve their sailing dreams.

World Cruising Club’s long standing, UK based, safety supplier, Ocean Safety, and their sister company Revere Supply, based in Florida, teamed together at the Annapolis Boat Show to help with our successful Ocean Sailing Forum. Both companies are part of the Safety and Survival Systems International Ltd (3Si) group, with a growing portfolio of marine safety products and services, covering commercial, leisure and military markets. The common goal of the business group is to help save lives at sea and safety is at the foundation of their core business values. The collective global distribution network enables the group to represent some of the world’s leading manufacturers and brands.

Joining the Ocean Sailing Forum, a moderated panel discussion providing an informative introduction to offshore cruising, Revere Supply representatives were on hand to answer questions about safety equipment for taking part in World Cruising Club

rallies and demonstrate Ocean Safety’s Jonbuoy Recovery Module and Danbuoy Horseshoe combination.

“Our 3Si sister company Revere Supply supported World Cruising’s forum by attending the forum as safety advisors,” explains Ocean Safety’s Charlie Mill. “The collaboration is a strong example of how the companies in the 3Si Group are working together on an international basis to support our customers in educating sailors about safety.” The would-be voyagers were then able to buy the Ocean Safety equipment needed from Revere’s stand.

Watermakers: Not just a luxury?Having a water maker on board a yacht was once the preserve of ocean racers and those fortunate enough to have both the space to install and the energy required to run one. Better on board energy management and an improvement in design of desalination systems have seen more & more sailors that are planning ocean passages are fitting water makers.

It is now becoming increasingly common to find water makers on boats of modest size, whether you are planning a Transatlantic trip

or a world voyage. What a water maker gives is greater independence to the skipper & crew. Gone is the need to call in at a marina every time the water tanks need filling up.

Mactra’s Top Tips• Choose a manufacturer or supplier that has a

good reputation and will give you the backup you will need should you require it.

• Before buying, seek advice as to what machine will suit your needs. A reputable supplier will give you honest advice.

• Make sure the installation is well thought out and that it works at sea as well as at anchor.

• Change consumables and carry out the simple routine maintenance as per manufacturer’s guidelines.

• Water makers like to be used. It’s better to run it for an hour a day, than 7 hours once a week.

• Remember having a water maker on board, allows you to use water the way you want to, without having to depend on the hose at the end of the jetty.


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Rally News

Back to the Baltic in 2017

ARC and ARC+ entries updateThis spring has seen a rush of sign-ups for ARC 2015 with both route options now close to capacity for this November. It will be an extra special year for the ARC as we celebrate the 30th edition and we will be welcoming a number of sailors who crossed the Atlantic with the first rally back in 1986. The upper entry limit for ARC+ Cape Verdes has been increased following two successful editions, and up to 75 boats can elect to depart Las Palmas de Gran Canaria on 8 November bound for Marina Mindelo, São Vicente then onto Saint Lucia. Those sailing the traditional direct route depart Las Palmas two weeks later on 22 November 2015.

Our popular summer cruise to Russia – the ARC Baltic rally will be back again in July 2017, giving plenty of time to start planning your cruise now. With the objective of sailing to Saint Petersburg, the historic former capital of imperial Russia that lies at the eastern end of the Baltic, the rally combines the adventure of a Russian visit with time to cruise and explore the scenic delights of the coasts of Finland and Sweden. Starting from the German Baltic port of Warnemünde, the cruise includes Danish islands and the historic Estonian capital Tallinn, before reaching Russia. Our team of Yellow shirts are with you all the way, helping with planning and cruising advice and well as facilitating the all-important visa applications for Russia. After the artistic and cultural delights of Saint Petersburg we head on to Finland’s capital Helsinki where a local cruising sailor will brief the rally crews on how to make the most of our time cruising gently through the Finnish archipelagos on route to Sweden. Mariehamn, is our rendezvous in the delightful Åland islands, whose combined Swedish-Finnish culture and unique sailing heritage make them a special place to visit. There is more

time to explore and cruise as we head west through the Stockholm archipelago along Sweden’s east coast before our final port and the rally end, at Kalmar in southern Sweden. This Baltic cross-roads is well suited for those heading to Denmark and Germany, or for those wishing to keep their boats a while longer in the Baltic, with many options for over wintering, ready for another season. Along the way there are our trademark trips ashore, crew dinners and parties, helping give the ARC Baltic a friendly and enjoyable social side to the sailing and cruising.

Sailing with the 2015 rally where Americans Marci and George Laycock on Migration, a very comfortable Nordhavn 68, and the Moseley family – Guyon and Ali, with their three boys, David, Gordon and William who joined the rally as part of their family circumnavigation on Widago a Leopard 48

Places are limited to 30 boats since we mainly visit small harbours, so register your interest now to be the first to know when the 2017 rally is open.

www.worldcruising.com/arcbaltic

Caribbean 1500 and ARC Bahamas set for 26th Year.

The 26th annual Caribbean 1500 will depart alongside its little-brother the ARC Bahamas rally again this November. The start is set for November 8 – a week later than usual, to give time for the last of Hurricane Season to wind down.

Both fleets will depart Ocean Marine Yacht Center in Portsmouth, VA, our third year using the historic seaside town as a base of departure after a week of activities, happy hours and seminars in town.

New for 2015 is ARC Bahamas new arrival destination at Harbourview Marina in Marsh Harbour. The family-run marina welcome the fleet last year on a last-minute change of venue, but after a year of working together, bigger plans are in the works for the finish this year.

Follow the fleets on worldcruising.com/carib1500. All yachts in both fleets will be fitted with YB Trackers.

www.worldcruising.com RALLY NEWS

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Distant Shores TV on ARC+Well known liveaboard couple Paul and Sheryl Shard will be back sailing again in the 2015 ARC rally, on board their Southerly 49 sailboat, Distant Shores II. The couple, who last sailed the ARC in 2012 document their sailing adventures for their online sailing channel Distant Shores and will be covering the alternative ARC this year – the ARC + Cape Verdes route which includes a stopover in the Cape Verdes and a chance to explore the islands of Sao Vicente and Sao Antonio before heading across the Atlantic to Saint Lucia. The ARC+ as the rally route is known, tends to have a smaller, more intimate group – 70 boats versus the 225 boat giant of its older brother the ARC, and as a result has a more relaxed pace and is popular with cruising couples. ARC+ sets off 2 weeks ahead of the main group, the merges again in Saint Lucia, as first of the direct ARCers are arriving.

The start of 2015 saw a new chapter beginning for World ARC with two fleets of intrepid circumnavigators sailing concurrently with the now annual editions of the rally. In April, World ARC 2014-15 came to an end in Saint Lucia, whilst cruising milestones have been falling quickly for the World ARC 2015-16 fleet who have already visited over a dozen countries six months in to their circumnavigation. Read about the crews’ experiences of both rallies starting on pages 18 and 25.

Meanwhile the adventure is just beginning for those planning their future circumnavigations with World Cruising Club. Entries are open for two forthcoming editions - World ARC 2016 and World ARC 2017. Yachts can join in Saint Lucia (January) or in Australia (September), and sail a half rally or make the whole

circumnavigation. Boats can also take a year out to explore Australasia and join the next edition to complete their circumnavigation.

Planning a round-the-world adventure takes time and using the experience gained over five editions of World ARC, we aim to help and support participants to set sail safely and well prepared. Many future ralliers attended our seminars this spring in Guildford, UK and Annapolis, USA, some taking their first steps in preparing for life afloat whilst others will be casting off their lines in just 6 months’ time.

Join one of our forums, seminars or rendezvous to start planning your own bluewater sailing adventure. See the schedule of our upcoming events on page 15

World Cruising Club USA at Annapolis & Toronto Boat Shows in 2015/2016

The Annual in-water sailboat show in Annapolis is fast approaching, and WCC USA has several events planned in and around the show, plus will have a presence in booth 0-17 where participants and interested sailors can come say hello!

As in past years, Andy Schell, Mia Karlsson from WCC USA & Jeremy Wyatt from our UK team will be hosting a Crew Rendezvous Happy Hour, World ARC Breakfast Forum & the annual Ocean Sailing Panel Discussion. All of these events are open to the public, and we encourage anyone in town and interested in ocean sailing to stop on by!

The Ocean Sailing Forum on Saturday, October 10 is a particularly good event for folks considering going offshore. Paul & Sheryl Shard of the popular Distant Shores TV series will be panellists, joined by round-the-world sailors and recent catamaran converts Rick & Julie Palm.

Rounding out the panel, hosted by Andy Schell, will be twenty-something cruisers Lee & Rachel Cumberland, who have recently refitted a Tayana 37 and are departing in November for a round-the-world voyage.

Annapolis Schedule

October 8: Show Opens, visit us in Booth O-17 next to the Marriott entrance.

October 9: World ARC Breakfast Forum, upstairs at the Federal House, 22 Market Space.

October 9: Crew Rendezvous Happy Hour, Chesapeake Sailmakers loft, 7366 Edgewood Road

October 10: Ocean Sailing Forum, O’Callaghan Hotel, 174 West Street

October 11-12: Visit us in the show in Booth O-17

Toronto, January 8-17 2016The Shards will also be joining Andy & Mia in January for the Toronto International Boat Show. For the second straight year, WCC USA will be headed north of the border to visit with our Canadian sailing friends. Andy & Mia will share the Speakers Booth with Paul & Sheryl, alongside world cruiser and author Liza Copeland.

There will also be an extensive seminar program during the Toronto Show, with Andy giving live talks on everything from offshore yacht rigging to recording podcasts with ocean sailors in front of a live audience. We’ll be hosting another Ocean Sailing Forum panel discussing with the Shards and some yet-to-be-named Canadian cruising sailors. It’s a great way to while away the cold January winter and get inspiring to get out sailing!

The speaking schedule for Toronto is still in the works and will be updated on both worldcruising.com and torontoboatshow.com.

Annapolis, October 8-12 2015

World ARC

SeaWeather Mobile App

Hi-Res Winds & Seas Chart

Currents ChartWeather Meteogram

Low Bandwidth Mode

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World Cruising Club Programme 2015 - 2016

2015

8-12 OctoberUS Sailboat Show, Annapolis, MDMeet the World Cruising Club team at the America’s largest sailboat show.

10 OctoberOcean Sailing Forum, Annapolis, USAAn introduction to ocean sailing held at the US Sailboat Show, Annapolis, MD.

31 OctoberOcean Sailing Forum, Hamburg, GermanyAn introduction to ocean sailing from an experienced cruising panel held at Hanseboot, the Hamburg International Boat Show.

08 NovemberARC Caribbean 1500 / ARC Bahamas startCruising rallies from Portsmouth VA to Tortola, BVI and Marsh Harbor, Abacos.

ARC + Cape Verde StartSail from Gran Canaria to Saint Lucia, with an added stopover in the Cape Verdes.

22 NovemberARC 2015 startCelebrating 30 years of the world’s most popular cruising rally from Gran Canaria to Saint Lucia.

2016

8-17 January Toronto International Boat Show

9 JanuaryWorld ARC start, Saint LuciaStart of 15 month circumnavigation rally via Panama Canal, Australia and South Africa.

9 JanuaryOcean Sailing Forum, London, UK An introduction to ocean sailing held at the London Boat Show.

23-31 JanuaryBoot Düsseldorf 2016Meet the World Cruising Club team at the international boat show at Düsseldorf, Germany.

11-13 MarchOcean Cruising Seminar, Guildford, UKIn depth seminar covering boat, crew and equipment preparation of ocean cruising.

19-20 MarchOcean Sailing Seminar, Annapolis, USAIn depth seminar covering boat, crew and equipment preparation of Caribbean 1500.

7 MayARC Europe / USA, start from British Virgin Islands and Portsmouth, VAARC USA from Tortola BVI to Bermuda then on to USA or directly to Fort Lauderdale via Old Bahama Channel. ARC Europe is a west-east transatlantic rally from Nanny Cay, Tortola visiting Bermuda and Azores en route to Europe.

MayARC Langtur Camp Dronningen – Oslo, NorwayBoat and crew preparation seminar in English and Norwegian. Held in association with the Royal Norwegian Yacht Club.

14-15 MayBluewater Weekend at Berthon, Lymington, UKA unique weekend rendezvous at Berthon’s Lymington UK base for sailors who are aiming at going offshore cruising and want to know what to look for when choosing a bluewater cruising boat.

5 JuneARC Portugal start, Plymouth UKSail south to Marine de Lagos, Portugal from Plymouth, UK.

20 AugustARC Channel Islands start, Gosport, UKRun in association with RYA Active Marina, the rally offers a week long organised cruise to Cherbourg, Guernsey, Jersey and Alderney.

SeptemberOcean Cruising Forum, Southampton UKAn introduction to ocean sailing at the Southampton Boat Show.

OctoberOcean Cruising Forum, Annapolis USA

6 NovemberARC Caribbean 1500 / ARC Bahamas StartCruising rallies from Portsmouth VA to Tortola, BVI and Marsh Harbor, Abacos.

ARC + Cape Verde startSail from Gran Canaria to Saint Lucia, with an added stopover in the Cape Verdes.

20 NovemberARC startJoin over 200 boats sailing across the Atlantic from Gran Canaria to Saint Lucia.

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ARC Caribbean 1500 is, of course, a means of getting your boat south to the islands. For most, the allure of cruising the Caribbean is the ultimate impetus for participating in the rally. The offshore bit, while a bucket-list item for some, is also simply a hurdle towards that ultimate island-hopping goal.I had the chance to return to Nanny Cay in February to do some sailing of my own. Merrill & Mary Brown of Serenity had loaned me their boat for a few weeks. Jake, one of the rally yellowshirts, and I got the boat ready and met a crew of four who would sail non-stop with us down island to Grenada. We planned to spend a few days exploring ashore there before swapping some of the crew out and sailing back again.

It was fantastic for both Jake and I reuniting with participants we had gotten to know so well during the rally. Several boats remained in Nanny Cay – some, like Avanti, taking advantage of the marina’s dry-sail program and sitting on the hard – and we met a lot of old friends.

Caribbean CallingAndy Schell follows the fleet south to Nanny Cay, British Virgin Islands.

“These kinds of stories are what is not in the brochure and only understandable when you have done it, when you are out there. This is what bluewater cruising is all about.”Andy Schell, Serenity

Crew of Senseless at the Portsmouth welcome party

Skipjack happy hour

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When we returned to Nanny Cay we met Dale and Debbie Macdonald from Wine Down and enjoyed a few glasses of wine with them while they told us what they had been up to since we saw them last in November, enjoying the BVI and living out this dream that started so long ago.

For Jake and I it was a chance to reminisce and remind ourselves that this was where all the hard work and long hours of the rally pays off. For our crew on Serenity, all of whom were new to ocean sailing and cruising in general, it was a glimpse of what the life can be like, an inspiration to keep on striving for it.

We later learned that Bob and Pam from Abigail had made good friends with Vin from the catamaran GEM, whom we also bumped into in Grenada. They had spent the whole winter cruising with each other down-island. Later in May, when Abigail needed crew on the final leg back home from Bermuda to Boston, Vin, having just sailed GEM on the same route with ARC USA, immediately flew back to Bermuda to crew with Bob & Pam who needed an extra hand. Vin even lent his mooring in New England to the French Canadian family on Morning Haze, who had also returned with ARC USA after having completed an entire Atlantic Circle to Europe and back with World Cruising Club Rallies.

These kinds of stories are what is not in the brochure and only understandable when you have done it, when you are out there. This is what bluewater cruising is all about.

When we got to Grenada, several hundred miles to the south, we ran into other rally boats still out cruising. As we backed into our slip at Port Louis Marina in St. George, the capital of the ‘Spice Island,’ we saw Tom Tom, the Oyster 54, leaving the dock. And there on the bulkhead was Abigail, the gorgeous custom-built 54-foot yawl from New England.

Later that night we ran into Bob & Pam Buck who invited Jake and I and the Serenity crew onboard for drinks. They regaled us with stories and photos of their home back in Boston which was buried in 7-feet of snow as they sipped Caribbean rum in the last glow of sunset!

Rewind to Portsmouth VA, in the FallTwenty-five years ago, the inaugural Caribbean 1500 fleet assembled on the southern Bay and prepared to head offshore on one of ‘the last great adventures’ available to ordinary people who decided to become extraordinary if only for a short period of time as they crossed a large stretch of ocean. Back then, late rally founder Steve Black wouldn’t have had to worry about writing news stories for the web. Or about satellite tracking or sending emails to the fleet at sea. 1990 was a simpler time perhaps, at least technologically, but certainly no less of an adventure.

As we look back on the last 25 years of ocean passages that the 1500 fleet has made, we’ll take a special, closer look at 2014.

Pre-Departure in PortsmouthCrews gathered at Ocean Marina Yacht Center, our hosts for the week’s pre-departure activities. High Street was hopping at Halloween. Each year they close down the main drag in town to vehicle traffic and put on a ‘safe’ trick-or-treating event for the local kids. Vampires, mummies, zombies and a Dracula or two roamed the streets looking for candy that the local businesses were passing out along the sidewalk while the rally crews swilled Kolsch and ‘Schwarzbier’ at the Bier Garden.

Ocean Marine Yacht Center

Karina flying rally flags in Portsmouth

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know what they are doing. It begs the age-old ‘chicken or the egg’ questions – i.e., how does one get experience without ever having an experience? But Frank and Patti are proving that while they might be new to the game, their crew certainly is not. They were here to learn from the real Salty Dogs, the tight band of crewmembers who have at least 10,000 miles sailing in the 1500. And that makes the 1500 very cool indeed.

“We’ve got Loren Thompson and Dave Hornbach onboard as our crew,” Frank told me. Loren and Dave have both done the 1500 over a dozen times combined, and have many thousands of miles on the route between the Chesapeake and the islands, in both directions. “I’m still going to be the captain and ultimately responsible for the boat, but I’ll be leaning heavily on Loren and Dave for their advice on how to handle specific situations. I’m hoping to learn from the best.”

Frank and Patti are by no means alone as newcomers to the offshore game, a fact that makes the 1500 unique. In 2014 about 1/3 of the fleet were veteran sailors who had done the route before, and you can be sure that knowledge and expertise was spread widely around the docks at Ocean Marine, the goal being that after a week of intense preparations, the knowledge base of the entire fleet has stepped up a level.

Safety ChecksPeter Burch and Lyall Burgess, the rally safety equipment inspectors, added to that knowledge base, roaming the docks conducting the safety equipment checks, which are taking on an even

“We brought our boat all the way up from Florida just to the 1500!” exclaimed Frank and Patti from the catamaran Sunsplash. “This has been a 5 or 6 year dream of ours,” said Frank. “We’ve followed the rally very closely over those years and just had to be a part of it, even if it meant bringing the boat a few hundred miles up the coast just to make the start.”

Frank and Patti are new to the offshore game. Speaking with them brought up an interesting point about the 1500. Naysayers put down the event as a ‘rally for newbies,’ implying that somehow the folks new to ocean sailing don’t

“We’ve followed the rally very closely over those years and just had to be a part of it, even if it meant bringing the boat a few hundred miles up the coast just to make the start.”Frank, Sunsplash

higher level of importance in 2014 given the Salty Dawg Rally incident from last year that saw 6 boats issue Mayday calls to the coastguard. Pete has many thousands of ocean miles on various boats over the years, and has done so many inspections that he is sure he has seen it all.

“While you can’t really ‘fail’ a safety check, sometimes getting signed off requires a second or third visit to the boat,” says Peter Burch. “The first visit takes the longest. This is where we go over all the required safety equipment with the skipper and ensure everything is in order. We’ll also talk about how they might handle different emergency situations offshore. Many times we’ll come up with things people haven’t ever thought of.”

One example is the liferaft requirement. “In the past, we’ve had multihull owners insist that they didn’t need to carry a raft, as their foam-cored boats were ‘unsinkable.’! That’s an easy one,” says Pete. “I just ask them what they’d do if they boat caught on fire 300 miles offshore and they were unable to put it out? That usually gets a big ‘Oh. I see.’ And the issue is resolved.”

Most times, the re-checks take only a few minutes, as the items are usually small ones. Rigging jacklines, for example, or sticking retro-reflective tape on the MOB equipment.

The safety checks are central to the Caribbean 1500, and skippers are made aware of the required equipment well in advance. “It’s nothing that a properly outfitted ocean-going boat wouldn’t want to have onboard anyway,” continued Pete.

The crew of Altair in Portsmouth

Safety checks on Serenity

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“We saw a lot of successful first and second-time checks in 2014, with very little major items missing, which is a sign that people were arriving well prepared.”

When are you truly ‘ready’ to leave?The focus soon shifted from outfitting the boat to provisioning food, refilling propane tanks, doing the last few loads of laundry, that sort of thing, and tensions were rising around the docks. There was a definite spring in most people’s steps as they hurried around Portsmouth working down their every increasing checklists. It’s a classic axiom that a sailing boat is never truly ready to leave the dock, so the priority lists get re-arranged and the things not at the top, and not critical to the safety of the boat, simply don’t make the cut.

For some, life during pre-departure had been easy and stress free. Tom, Colin and crew aboard Corsair were looking mighty mellow, even a full week prior to the start.

The crew lounged in the cockpit listening to orchestral music and reading, cool drinks not far from their reach. Corsair’s code flags were flying, the decks were sparkling and the crew was smiling.

“We’d been ready for a week!” Tom said. “All we had left to do was load up some food, do some laundry and leave the dock! It was a nice feeling.”

Corsair had spent nearly a month at Ocean Marine prior to the week’s pre-departure program getting some teak deck work done and finishing up a few last major projects. Having the boat already in town certainly saved them some added stress of making the long passage down from New England, or the overnight sail down the Bay.

So while Tom and the Corsair crew relaxed, the rest of the sailors continued prepping and enjoying the social and seminar program that comes with the rally.

The City, in conjunction with Ocean Marine Yacht Center, hosted a Welcome Reception in town where an in-character Colonel Crawford, the ‘founder of Portsmouth,’ was along to greet folks through the door in full 18th century regalia. He introduced the 8-year-old Colin a true prodigy on the fiddle, who played a few numbers including his rousing version of the classic ‘Drunken Sailor’ shanty.

The parties continued through the week, with more events at the Bier Garden, a full-fledged seminar program with topics on everything from yacht rigging to seasickness and flare demonstrations, and a final farewell reception at Roger Brown’s. By then, it was the weather on everyone’s minds.

A not-uncommon change in the weather.It was a windy night at Ocean Marine Yacht Center just two days before the start. Boats bounced around in their slips. The crew of Delphinus helped Lucky Strike retie their docklines so as not to get thrown onto the pontoon in the swell. Even the old bed and breakfast the rally staff had been occupying for the week was shaking in the gusts, which were topping 50 knots offshore.

The official announcement to delay came after the morning outlook was issued from WRI, our event forecasters. The report, mentioning gale force winds extending several hundred miles offshore, made the decision easy. The fleet would wait.

Conditions were much more favorable for the start of an offshore passage a day later. The sun was shining and winds were 12-15 knots out of the NW. In short, it was ideal conditions for leaving the US coast on a fall voyage to the Caribbean.

The challenge in planning an offshore voyage in the fall is the tight window between hurricane season and the winter weather pattern. Insurance companies won’t let most yachts south of Cape Hatteras before November 1, but the longer you wait, the greater the chances of running into a big nor’easter offshore, which is in fact exactly what had delayed the fleet.

But unlike in 2012, when Hurricane Sandy, late in the year for that type of storm, wreaked havoc on the US east coast, 2014 saw no such late-season hurricanes. Instead, the one-day delay followed the classic ‘best-case’ scenario with regards to the weather – departing on the back of a cold front

Safety demo

Bill and Matt (father and son) on Crazy Horse

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after the NW’ly windshift, and getting east and across the Gulf Stream in fair weather before the wind continues to clock to the NE and against the current. Conventional wisdom states that it is best to cross the Stream on a SW’ly breeze, wind with current. But SW’ly winds also indicate an approach cold front, with unstable weather and the increased likelihood of rain, squalls and sometimes off Hatteras, local anomalies caused by the drastic change in ocean temperatures. So we say wait for the front to pass, and get out as soon as possible thereafter.

One Fleet, Two Very Different StoriesFalcon, the 80’ Cookson, did the expected and beat the rest of the fleet to the BVI. The ex-America’s Cup training vessel, now a tricked out cruising yacht, sailed the course in just over seven days.

“We had the perfect passage,” said the yacht’s owner Cary St. Onge. Never more than 10-15 knots of wind, close reaching or close-hauled. Falcon does great in those conditions.”

“Any hobby horsing?” asked Ron Horton of Lone Star, the third boat to arrive almost 24 hours after Falcon, on Tuesday afternoon.

“None at all!” answered skipper Ryan St. Onge, Cary’s son. “No, we’re long enough and narrow enough that we just slice through the waves,” he added.

Crazy Horse, who recently circumnavigated with World ARC, was the second boat to arrive. Rosemary Thomas was quick to remind Lone Star who won.

“Crazy Horse defeats Lone Star - the Indians finally beat the Cowboys!” she exclaimed, as she helped Lone Star tie up to the dock.

Except for the three ‘big boats’ that arrived early, the weather for the rest of the fleet was getting lighter. If you had followed the blogs that the boats were sending in from at sea, you would have seen that the weather was not exactly

favorable, especially for the smaller, slower boats towards the back of the fleet. A contrary wind had been blowing from the southeast for days, severely slowing the progress of the fleet and reminding anyone watching from home why the traditional sailing directions say ‘GO EAST!’ while you have the chance. Certainly some of the fleet would have wished for a mulligan on the first half of their trip south to do just that.

Some of the smaller boats, like the sister ship Vancouver 42’s Moonshadow and Mystic Shadow, still had over 400 miles of ocean between them and Tortola as the first boats arrived on-island.

Falcon, the first boat to arrive

Falcon fixing their spinnaker in Nanny Cay

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“After 8 days of sailing only 350 miles left to go!” wrote Opportunity, one of the smaller boats, a Corbin 39, bringing up the rear of the fleet. “But only if we sail in a straight line, and not the zigzag upwind path of the last couple of days. The winds have been light to moderate and just lately we have been enjoying a stiff 20 knot breeze, all from the southeast, with lumpy seas, so not the best conditions for getting anywhere fast.”

Regardless of the time they had left, crews certainly seemed to be enjoying themselves.

“Every day has been sunny and warm and every night softly moonlit, we have fresh mahi-mahi on the menu thanks to Duncan, and even caught a few squalls today to rinse away some of the salt from the boat and ourselves! We have sea and sky all around and haven’t seen another boat in about three days. All in all a great week of sailing!”

On a trip like this, it’s as much about the sailing and about being on the ocean as it is about getting ‘there’.

PrizegivingIn the end, 2014 was the slowest year since 2011. The prizegiving was more of a milestone than a final ceremony, with four yachts still at sea as the evening got under way.

Crews that had been sweaty and salty for nearly two weeks at sea showed up in their shoreside best, with matching crew shirts and tropical island colors. After the crowd gathered round the bar for a quick beer or rum punch, the awards got going in earnest just as the sun was disappearing behind the hillsides in the west.

“Hoooorayy!” shouted the crowd, as just in time, Aviva made their way into the cut and into Nanny Cay Marina with the largest audience of any of the arrivals thus far. “There is indeed something

about being one of the last boats to arrive,” said Dorothy of Aviva.

“That was really special having everyone cheer for us like that!” Dorothy, Fred and crew made it up to the beach just in time to see the awards get underway.

As we always do at the 1500, we emphasized the fun and special prizes over the competitive awards, and the ceremony kicked off as such with prizes for Best Mustache, Best Logs, Best Fishing Story (won by Serenity for their very timely bribe of 4 pounds of fresh mahi for the Yellowshirts lunches!), Youngest Skipper and more.

Each boat also received a custom engraved plaque from Weems & Plath for participating in the rally, and was recognized on stage for finishing the event.

Later in the evening the competitive awards were distributed, with Avanti, Opportunity & Southern Cross taking home first place for Classes A, B and Multihulls respectively.

Before the night was out, the biggest awards were given, starting with a new perpetual trophy for 2014. Miles Poor, of rally sponsor MRP Refits, was called on stage to describe the new Hal Sutphen Seamanship Trophy, which, alongside the Tempest Trophy for Spirit of the Rally, will remain in Nanny Cay.

“Hal, along with rally founder Steve Black, was integral in promoting proper seamanship,” Miles began, “which starts long before you ever head to sea. When Hal died, his wife suggested we make an award in his honor, so we started with this silver cup in 2006. It will go to the yacht that sets the best example of seamanship in the rally.”

The crew of Cosette with the rope that caught around their prop

Nanny Cay prizegiving

Serenity coming in to fuel dock

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Though they weren’t present to accept it (they were still at sea), La Madeline took the honor for their incredibly detailed preparations back in Portsmouth. Both safety inspectors Lyall Burgess and Peter Burch agreed that they were far and away the most well prepared. Each crewmember, in turn, had done live MOB drills, and they had detailed diagrams of each stowage space on the boat, fantastic use of safety equipment and more. They set the bar high for the safety checks in rallies to come.

Avanti was then called back on the stage to accept the Steve Black Trophy for winning the Overall Cruising Division, correcting ahead of all Class A and B yachts.

Finally, Avanti remained on stage to present the Tempest Trophy for Spirit of the Rally, as winner of it themselves in 2012 for guiding several yachts through a severe lightning storm in the Gulf Stream. 2014 was a fairly mild year weather wise, and an uneventful one at sea, with no boats really requiring the assistance of another. That being the case, the Tempest Trophy this year was awarded to Corsair, for their general enthusiasm since Day 1 in Portsmouth.

“On the first Monday in Portsmouth, when everyone else was tearing their boats apart to get ready to put to sea, I found Tom and his crew sitting in the cockpit listening to music and drinking wine,” said Andy Schell. “These guys were on it from the start. They were ready to go a month ahead of time, went to every function, were always smiling, and just set the best example of what it takes to participate in this event. They are very deserving of the award.”

Corsair’s name was engraved on the Tempest Trophy beneath Avanti and Moonshadow’s from the previous two years, and it will remain in Peg Leg’s restaurant until next year.

The award was a little more meaningful this year, both because it is the 25th running of the rally, but also because Steve Black passed away in February. The award has always bared his name, as Steve was a keen racing sailor in his heyday, and loved the friendly competition of the rally.

Island tour of Tortola

The girls who sailed at the prizegiving

The beach bar in Nanny Cay

Spirit of the rally award went to Corsair

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The ARC Bahamas fleet sailed from Portsmouth, VA with the larger Caribbean 1500 fleet, one day delayed due to the weather. This shorter offshore route brought together two catamarans – Delfinus and Symmetry III – and three monohulls – Caribbean 1500 veterans Sojourner and Comocean, plus J/World’s Euro Trash Girl – for the shorter passage south.

“This year was a decidedly different passage from last year” said Dennis Schell, skipper of Sojourner, a Wauquiez Hood 38. In 2013, Sojourner sailed with the 1500. For three days following the start, they and the rest of the fleet endured 25-30 knots of wind on the back of a cold front, which whisked them south and east on a fast, but wet and windy trip. “Last year,” continued Dennis, “we had far too little wind! We motored a lot, and even had a few meals on the cockpit table!”

For both Comocean and Sojourner, ARC Bahamas represented a desired change of pace and change of destination for seasoned rally veterans, but with all the benefits of the Caribbean 1500.

“We wanted to try something new,” said Toby Hynes, skipper of Comocean, “but still wanted to be a part of a rally. It worked great for us!”

Offshore to the BahamasA new destination

“We wanted to try something new, but still wanted to be a part of a rally. It worked great for us!”Toby Hynes, Comocean

On board Euro Trash Girl

Delphinus on the start line

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Rick & Helen Bell on Symmetry III, a brand new Balance 45 catamaran, sailed ARC Bahamas as part of a much longer adventure that would eventually take them through the notorious ‘thorny path.’ As of this writing in August 2015, Symmetry III had just arrived in the Grenadines.

The ‘thorny path’ is aptly named – from the Abacos south and east through the Bahamian Out Islands, Turks & Caicos, Virgin Islands and on towards the Windwards is a nearly 1,300 nautical mile journey, entirely to windward. But, if like the crew of Symmetry you take it in short chunks, you can certainly see a lot and have many adventures along the way, making the route somewhat ‘thorn-less’ as it’s advocates would say.

Dennis, skipper of Sojourner, returned to the Bahamas on his own boat for a third time in 2014.

The first, back in 1979, saw he and his wife Gail depart the Chesapeake and head down the ICW on their 32-foot sloop, the first Sojourner.

Dennis and a few friends sailed his latest Sojourner, the Wauquiez, offshore to the Bahamas with the rally. What had taken him over a month of motoring down the ‘ditch’ took only 4 days offshore, one of the biggest benefits of joining the rally south.

Tom Herrington, who crewed on Sojourner last year in the rally, is joining ARC Bahamas with his wife Darlene this year on their own boat, an Ericson 35 called Jubilee.

“It just made so much more sense,” says Tom. “To be able to get down there quickly, know your boat is prepared for going offshore, and enjoy more time cruising the islands is what excites us!”

J/World Annapolis Leads ARC Bahamas Fleet

Harbourview Marina, Marsh Harbor – a new Destination for 2014ARC Bahamas got a new destination this time, finishing at Marsh Harbor, capital of the Abacos. The Harbourview Marina, a family owned and operated facility in the sleepy town hosted the arrival of the rally for the first time.

“We love having the rally here,” said marina owner Troy, who personally looks after all the boats at Harbourview on a daily basis. “November is still early season in the Abacos, so we’ve got plenty of room, and we think the sailors will love the laid-back atmosphere in Marsh Harbor!”

Most of the rally fleet had planned to keep their boats in Marsh Harbour for the season anyway last year, making the move from Green Turtle Cay even smoother. Whale Cay Passage, known locally as simply ‘the Whale’, is a notoriously dangerous reef break that yachts must transit to get from the northern Abacos – where Green Turtle Cay is located – to the southern Abacos and popular cruising spots like Hope Town, Marsh Harbor and Little Harbor. In 2014, J/World Annapolis, World Cruising

Club’s Official Training Partner, led the ARC Bahamas fleet to its new destination in Marsh Harbor, in the Abacos. J/World’s J/120 Euro Trash Girl led the fleet with six crew and two skippers onboard, completing the 650-mile passage in about 4 days at sea.

The passage was part of J/World’s increasing calendar of offshore-specific sailing programs. Known as ‘The Performance Sailing School,’ J/World sometimes get pigeonholed as a school for racers. Not so, says Kristen Berry, head of J/World Annapolis’s training programs.

“We are a racing school to be sure,” said Berry, “and a very good one at that! But we’re also much more. We sailed ARC Bahamas as a cruising passage, not a race. There is a real need for ocean-sailing-specific training, and taking

part in the World Cruising Club rallies is an obvious partnership for us! It was a fantastic passage!”

In addition to the offshore passages J/World offers, they’ll be putting on another ‘Ocean Preparedness Seminar’ in late September in Annapolis. The weekend course is very similar to the popular US Sailing / ISAF Safety at Sea courses (required for crew on WCC USA’s ocean sailing rallies), but is more cruising specific and more hands-on.

“We think it’s a great opportunity to let people actually try out all the safety gear, in a real-world environment, that’s required on offshore sailing.” added Berry.

For more information visit jworldannapolis.com.

Rick & Helen Bell on Symmetry III with their bikes Marsh Harbor at sunset

The crew of Euro Trash Girl at the farewell dinner

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Nanny Cay, Tortola

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Photo Competition Yet another calm day aboard La Madeleine, with Scott Tobin

and the boys breaking for a swim and a Twizzler snack!

Wonderful perspective of hard sailing on Oblivion as they sailed south towards Tortola.

Barrie North and his gang on Alchemy had some stunning photos, but this one stood out most. Great sense of speed as they sailed hard towards Tortola.

Calm reflections by the crew of Club Carp

Aviva, winner of the 2014 ARC Caribbean 1500 photo competition!

Sunny sailing taken by Patty on board Sunsplash

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I have built a career on helping clients find boats that fit their budget and their intended goal. If the story ended there, I would not be much of a broker. I would not have clients who have sailed the world’s oceans or those who have filled their mantles and offices with pickle dishes. So, if finding the perfect bluewater boat is so hard, what has allowed my customers to sail over the horizon and return safely?

When most people think of a ‘bluewater’ cruising sailboat they typically envision a heavy double ender with a bowsprit and a shallow cockpit. The legendary Westsail 32 comes to mind.

In many ways, this vision is correct. The details that make this imaginary craft ‘bluewater’ come from a lineage of passage making and lifesaving designs. In the age before modern boatbuilding materials, shape was the most important safety factor a cruiser had. The rule of thumb with early construction was to overbuild it, over canvas it and give it a healthy draft.

We have come a long way since the advent of computer aided design and our understanding of materials has changed the shape of the bluewater boat.

On Buying a Bluewater Boatby Forbes Horton

“With the right equipment, just about any boat is bluewater capable as long as it fits the unique and specific needs of her sailors.”Forbes Horton

The most common question I get from sailors is, “Is this boat a good choice for bluewater sailing?” In the brokerage market, the answer is often a resounding “no.”

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“Adequate tankage is an important detail to consider when looking at boats. Capacities, location and construction materials all play a crucial role in a boats performance and ability.”Forbes Horton

Gerry jugs are a pain in the neck at best, an offshore safety concern at worst, and the ability to have sufficient tankage for both water and fuel will extend the time between docks and mean easier passages. There is nothing worse than being becalmed in the doldrums with an ocean swell running. If you have the fuel to motor to the wind, you will save the sanity of your crew and cut down on the wear and tear of the rigging.

This applies for water as well, although it is not as critical. The advent of compact and efficient water makers has provided hot showers offshore and the ability to rinse foul weather gear on the off watch. Water makers also save the stress and aggravation of lugging water, of unknown quality, in 5 gal increments in the dinghy.

Empirical data has prompted designers to lengthen water lines, add sugar scoops with self-bailing cockpits, and modify sail plans from towering mountains to efficient foils that a retirement age couple can easily manage. So what then is a ‘bluewater’ boat by modern standards? With the right equipment, just about any boat is bluewater capable as long as it fits the unique and specific needs of her sailors.

Rigging condition and placement can make or break the way a boat handles. How big is the sail plan and how does it compare to the displacement. How high is the boom? Can my crew reach the headboard of the mainsail to attach the halyard? Is there enough room ahead of the dodger to reef and flake the sail? Where are the primary winches located in the cockpit and can I reach them from the helm? These are the type of details that you should be able to immediately assess when looking at a potential passage maker for the first time.

Once you are comfortable with the layout of the sail handling gear the next step is the condition of the equipment. When was the rigging changed? How old are the furlers? How do the chain plates and mast step look? The rig and sails are the first details that should be sorted when considering a cruising boat and the correct setup will make the boat safer, more efficient and easier to use.

Adequate tankage is an important detail to consider when looking at boats. Capacities, location and construction materials all play a crucial role in a boats performance and ability.

“Hull form is the most complicated detail to access when deciding on a boat. In actuality, most are capable, and if the boat has been cared for and updated it will do the job.”Forbes Horton

If you are lucky enough to find a dock or a pier with a hose it usually has old car tires and logs for fenders and it is the last thing you would ever want to tie up to.

Water makers come with the added complexity of batteries, alternators and charging systems, which all must be in working order to ensure the reliable production of water. Charging technology has improved greatly and its reliability is excellent. That being said, it is good practice to be careful with your water while passage making and enjoy the luxury of a shower when the production output is at its max.

Hull form is the most complicated detail to access when deciding on a boat. In actuality, most are capable, and if the boat has been cared for and updated it will do the job. Some are more comfortable than others; some will be swifter. The lifespan of a single skin fiberglass laminate has yet to be discovered and a hull laminated by a reputable builder will often be stronger than it needs to be. It’s the sailor aboard and the equipment attached that you must not forget when picking a boat.

Sailors have circumnavigated safely in the most unlikely craft and when you look at those that have gone before, good seamanship and proper set up were more of a factor to their success than the category that defined their boat. A well-designed and equipped boat will be more forgiving. Matching a skill set to a boat is how a resounding “no” becomes a “yes.”

Forbes Horton

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Heading Home with ARCThere were half a dozen US and Canadian yachts in the 2015 ARC and ARC+ Cape Verde; some, like Morning Haze, Maravilha and Antares, completed a full Atlantic circle, while others were sailing boats purchased in Europe onto the US.

Morning Haze heading westbound following the sunset

“Sailing in the ARC brings a true sense of belonging, a true sense of camaraderie, a bit of competition, and a shared love for the adventure of sailing. In the end, it’s all about the friendships.”Thane Paulsen, Asylum

The Hayes family, s/y Morning Haze

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For all of them, the ARC represents a journey towards home. It’s philosophically different than most of the European ARC sailors, who are just setting out on their adventures, but certainly no less exciting.

First Ocean CrossingHailing from Sioux Falls, South Dakota, Thane Paulsen is the first to admit that he and his wife Brenda may not be your typical offshore sailors, “We have lived all of our lives over 1200 miles from seawater - right smack in the middle of the United States!” However, on November 9 2014 their 2006 Bavaria 39 Asylum was on the ARC+ start line and was just 1 of 9 boats out of 50 sailing with a double-handed crew. The Paulsens began planning for the crossing almost 20 years ago and after several seasons of Caribbean and coastal cruising, they bought Asylum from friend in the BVIs and shipped her across the pond to explore the Mediterranean in Spring 2013, choosing to do their first ocean crossing on the milk-run westbound route and within the safety and security of a rally. “Sailing in the ARC brings a true sense of belonging, a true sense of camaraderie, a bit of competition, and a shared love for the adventure of sailing. In the end, it’s all about the friendships.”

Cruising sabbaticalDavid, a Quebec University professor and Isabelle, a college teacher, sailed off on a great adventure with their two daughters, Rebecca (14) and Demi (10) on their Hunter 410 Morning Haze. Regular readers of this magazine, or the World Cruising Club website may already be familiar with their story; They first set sail with the ARC Caribbean 1500 back in 2013, then their second World Cruising Club rally was with ARC Europe the following May. Crossing the Atlantic for the first time, they set out from Tortola, BVI to Marina de Lagos, Portugal via Bermuda and the Azores. Always willing to try something different and not follow the tourist route, during the summer of 2014 they sailed to Morocco after cruising Portugal and Spain. “Morocco was a great experience and we ended up living in the Sahara for four days with Nomads and on camel hikes,“ said David.

In August 2014, the family flew back home and left Morning Haze in the Canaries to go back to teaching duties at the University. Returning to Las Palmas, they joined the ARC and David used the opportunity to carry out a research project on potential sailing injuries for cruising sailors as there is no data on this for the cruising population.

Arriving in Rodney Bay after 21 days at sea, the Hayes family received an extra special welcome as they were greeted on the dock by the many friends that they’d made during their Atlantic circuit.

“The WCC rallies have lived up to our dreams, especially for the children it’s been great as they get to meet other families.”

They sailed their final Atlantic circle leg homewards with ARC USA in May 2015 and back to ‘real life’ which they had evaded for so long.

A Girl in Every PortKen Smail from North Carolina, USA was sailing Sojourner, a Shannon 37, together with two friends who have been part of a crew for over 20 years, sailed the direct route on ARC 2014 from Las Palmas to Saint Lucia. They were also joined by one crew member from Bristol, UK whom Ken hooked up with via World Cruising Club’s OceanCrewlink crew finder website.

Whilst Ken’s wife, Cathy, who is also co-owner Sojourner, was not on board for the Atlantic crossings, she was at all the ports of call to cheer them on. “Someone said to me that I have a girl at every port, but it’s the same girl!” commented Ken. Once in Saint Lucia, his crew headed home as planned, and Cathy rejoined the boat for some double-handed cruising south to Grenada, where they plan to lay-up the boat for the hurricane season, before heading back in November.

Speaking in Las Palmas before the off, Ken reflected, “This is a very long way to get the boat from North Carolina to the Caribbean! We left with ARC Europe in May 2014 and we landed in Lagos mid-June. I won’t be settled back home for almost a year or so. It has been absolutely wonderful experience and I think west bound is going to be much more comfortable than east bound. All my sailing fantasies have been like the glossy magazines; sailing in T-shirts and shorts to wonderful anchorages and all that sort of thing, so I am really looking forward to it.”

The ARC rally offers a choice of two routes – direct from Gran Canaria to Saint Lucia, or to Saint Lucia via Mindelo in the Cape Verde islands. This option forms the ARC+ rally which sets off 2 weeks ahead of the main group. More information at www.worldcruising.com/arc

Going full circle

Catch of the day on board Sojourner

Thane & Brenda on Asylum

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Setting off on the voyage of a lifetimeWorld ARC 2015 sets sail

Whilst the boats of the World ARC 2014 fleet were setting out from South Africa in January on the last stages their circumnavigation, crews of the 2015 fleet were gathering in Saint Lucia preparing to set off on their voyage of a lifetime. By April this new fleet of ‘World-ARCers’ had made it safely into the Pacific via the Panama Canal. It has been interesting to catch up with a few of the crews to ask about their preparations and their expectations of the voyage around the world, and whether after three months sailing, how these expectations have been realised.

“As well as all the boat preparations it was all the other stuff which took time; house clearing, moth-balling, renting, selling.” explained John and Stella Dyer of Exocet Strike. They had been preparing their boat gradually over the preceding three years but, as John reminded us “there is so much on the domestic side which all needs to come together at the last stages”.

“3 months into the rally, and we couldn’t be happier with our choice to take part. We are just going with the flow of a well-organized group and really, really enjoying our small ‘village’ of new friends.”Sarah Barthelet, s/y Makena

Baby Kai from Makena presents his passport to immigration

Pentagram sets sail to Hiva Oa

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Paul and Caroline Frew from Juno started their circumnavigation in the Mediterranean and were always busy with their final preparation for ARC and World ARC. “Despite my best efforts, there were still a thousand things to do before we left Palma de Mallorca. But when I consult my list, I reassure myself that the important items will be completed and the rest aren’t essential to crossing oceans” wrote Paul in his boat blog.

Marian and Peter from Exody agreed with other crews that it was their home life that was more difficult to prepare than the boat.

“The logistics and finances of renting out our home, moving out of it, providing a security network for our two daughters, were in some ways more challenging than the two years we had spent preparing the boat. Our boat prep included many projects tackled in the peaceful environment of the Spanish Rias, once we had left home base behind!”. Two yachts, Ayama and Makena, completed ARC+ in the preceding months and only subscribed to World ARC four weeks before the start. They had a busier time in Saint Lucia than most of the fleet. “The world tour starts tomorrow!!! I just cannot believe that we are going to leave Saint Lucia tomorrow, and return in April 2016 after a circumnavigation!!!” wrote Sarah and Luc – the Makena crew - in their blog.

Although Sarah and Luc did not have much time to think about the route of World ARC, they did have one focus for their voyage as Sarah explained

“A friend of ours has a wedding on Moorea in April. Since signing on we've been excited to know we are going to be there on time and with the boat. We are so looking forward to all those Pacific Islands”.John and Stella Dyer were also excited: “looking forward to visiting all those remote islands and areas which most people will never get a chance to visit; we feel very privileged”, as well as “the sheer challenge ahead of us of sailing around the world” explained John. And some of the conditions on route did offer some challenging sailing, particularly on the first two legs across the Caribbean Sea and the first few days west from Panama. Eric on Luna Quest reported “As soon as we were outside the bay of Santa Marta, we were well and truly hit by 35 knots of winds and mountainous seas, energised by the long fetch from across the Atlantic” These Caribbean tradewind seas always offer a fast and furious ride at the start of the rally – not ideal timing as crews are still finding their ocean-legs after a few weeks cruising the Caribbean over Christmas. It was a bumpy ride, but the rewards of the first port of call are well were worth it.

This time around, the World ARC route included a new stop at Marina Santa Marta, on Colombia’s unspoilt Caribbean coast. In addition to breaking the passage across the demanding Caribbean Sea, the stopover, one of three on mainland South America, provided a chance to explore the region’s Spanish colonial heritage and natural beauty. Eager to impress, Marina Santa Marta made the circumnavigators very welcome.

“It has been a great stopover here and Colombia has pulled the stops out for the World ARC visit. There was a magnificent dinner last night along with the prizegiving. Prior to that there was a beach barbecue in the adjacent national park and an organised tour of Santa Marta focusing on the heritage of Simon Bolivar” said Marian and Peter of Exody.

Heading on from Colombia crews spent some time in the idyllic San Blas islands before assembling at Shelter Bay Marina to prepare for the transit of the Panama Canal. All the Canal preparations and the transits went well, owing to the excellent support the rally receives from the Panama Canal Authority.

The Panama Canal is awe inspiring, and such an amazing experience for the skippers to have taken their own boats through this engineering marvel.

“When the gates of the Miraflores Lock opened, the way forward led us to the Pacific. The start is when we passed beneath the Bridge of the America, which we marked with blasts on the ships horn and applause”. Luis and Manuela of Allegro.

With each mile and each stopover, crews have gaining new experiences of people, cultures and landscapes. The Panama Canal transit was an obvious highlight the first three months, due to its iconic status amongst mariners. However, the ecological highlight has to be the Galapagos Islands, famed around the world for their wildlife. In each port the rally itinerary includes a tour; a chance to see some of the locality and perhaps to encourage further exploration. The tour to Kicker Rock in Galapagos was well received with crews managing to view and get close to a huge variety of marine life. Stella from Exocet Strike snorkelled for the first time and Kai from Makena (who is just a year old) was bundled-up in his baby life jacket and sat in his inflatable infant ring, floating a-top of hammerhead sharks, truly a first-in-a-lifetime experience for all ages!

Jens, Dagmar and Ana of GarliX were impressed with the Galapagos Islands – “what we have seen here is so unique; we will miss this unusual “zoo”. Never before have we been so close to so many animals and birds”.

Visiting this special place however, does come with a few conditions. Before arriving in the islands all the crews had to impeccably clean their boat’s hulls so they were free of potentially harmful species and, inside the boat, other measures had to be taken to minimise the yacht’s potential risk to the environment.

Rafting together in the Panama Canal locks

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The Galapagos National Park Authority still have to improve their communication to visiting yachtsmen in what they are trying to do, but for this visit at least, the fleet met the criteria (whatever they were) and were given permission to stay in the rich and interesting Marine Reserve.

“The Galapagos – it was great to put a 'face' to the iconic name and place, and to be counselled as to where and how best to spend our time in such a controlled and regulated environment. Kicker Rock, the Lava Tunnels and the Highland caldera walk were all excellent tours and very memorable. The seamless entry process has to be mentioned too – but it was bemusing to have 10 or 11 folk in our cockpit to fill in their forms - but all turned out well in the end!” Peter and Marian of Exody.

Sarah of Makena wrote “3 months into the rally, and we couldn't be happier with our choice to take part. We are just going with the flow of a well-organized group and really, really enjoying our small ‘village’ of new friends. We've been able to help each other, not just on boat related stuff but on making the most of time in various

bought many more consumables - oil and fuel filters, oil, shackles, sacrificial anodes, ropes, SodaStream cartridges! etc”

In reading others' blogs about round the world trips, a simple photo has always stood out in my mind - it was taken by Seth on Honeymoon of his wife looking serenely at the profile of Hiva-Oa in the Iles Marquises as they arrive after their longest ever crossing. They said it was one of their all time favorite pics and presumably that is because it marks such an achievement. We just cannot believe that we'll be in a position to take our own South Pacific "land ahoy" photo very soon also.

places, sharing advice on what tours to do and doing many of the tours with other boats. We've even had sleepovers [for the kids]! The friendliness of the other crews exceeds expectations and the rally control team have often gone beyond the call of duty with their invaluable foreign language skills and perseverance on our behalf”.

“We are having fun and life couldn’t be better”World Cruising Club would again like to thank all the people and organisations who help to make the event so successful. From the continued help of our long term partners, such as those in Saint Lucia and Galapagos to the newer supporters in Santa Marta and parts of our Panama programme, we thank you all for your time, advice and support. And we look forward to seeing you again next year!

Hindsight is a wonderful thing and already many of the crew have identified what they might have done differently with their preparations. Sarah on Makena writes “The further you move away from the US or Europe, they worse the ship chandlers seem to get. We have lots of regrets about not buying parts while in Europe which we knew we would need in the future. Given that we have plenty of storage space, we should have

Boats meeting each other under the Centenario bridge to raft again to enter Pedro Miguel locks

Raft of Aquilon III, Wayward Wind and Pentagram into Pedro Miguel lock

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What was your experience of World ARCAfter sailing the World for the last fifteen months, Russ describes his experience saying “It’s been fantastic. The adventure is more than you could prepare yourself for. The fun you have, the people you meet and the places you go are even more rich and rewarding than you could expect.”

Asked the same question, Hubert breaks it down to three main points as to why it was a good experience for him and his crew.

“1) It’s the shortest way of making a circumnavigation if you’re time restricted. 2) You meet lots of nice people. 3) You have great support especially regarding clearance procedures which can spoil your time if done yourself.”

In your view, what is the main advantage of sailing with World ARC?Asking the question to Michael, the benefit of World ARC clearly gave time to continue a

life back home. “For me socialising was only an added benefit, the key reason was safety sailing as a fleet and the staff taking away the administrative load. This way, it allowed me to continue running my business at home whilst fulfilling my dream of passing under the Bridge of the Americas (Panama) and visiting the Galapagos and Marquesas.” Similarly Cathy concluded that sailing with the support of World ARC “was a real plus having the rally staff assist with the clearances in and out of countries. It saved a lot of time and made things much smoother.”

What was your favourite passage and destination?In conducting these interviews, it was evident that the fleet enjoyed the diversity of the Pacific Islands. Whilst reminiscing Cathy confidently agreed with husband Charlie that “Our favourites were definitely in the Pacific. The small island of Tanna and of course Fiji we would love to go back and fully explore.” Making such an impact, Laurie stated that “We’re thinking about a half rally again, however this time spend more time in the South Pacific exploring the multitude of islands.”

Your favourite passage may not always be the one that gives you ideal conditions. Hubert and his crew agreed that “Although harder and despite multiple sail rips, the Indian Ocean provided constant wind and was the most rewarding sailing.” And once again “The Pacific. French Polynesia and the Tuamotus were special; Saint Helena was unique, partly due to its remoteness.”

World ARC Top-TipsSkippers share their views on the rally

With the experience gained from sailing the World’s Oceans, we asked some of the skippers to draw on their experience for recommendations and top-tips for those embarking on a circumnavigation with World ARC.

The Skippers• Charlie and Cathy Simon are from the

US state of Maryland and sailed their Taswell 58 Celebrate, often as double handers, for their circumnavigation with World ARC.

• Hubert Hirschfeld from Berlin, Germany is the owner and skipper of the X-612 Chika-lu, and has sailed all his life owning many different yachts. Chika-lu is the largest monohull in the fleet.

• Michael Haufe is the owner of Polaris, a Hanse 47 H. Sailing with World ARC, Michael still found time to run his business back home in Germany.

• Americans Russ and Laurie Owen own the Semi-Custom Catamaran, Nexus. Built in South Africa, the yacht returned to its home port in St. Francis Bay during the fleet’s free cruising period in South Africa.

Klaus, Jan, Michael Haufe, Christian

Russ and Laurie Owen

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How have you crewed your boat and why? Crewing your boat the right way for you, is both extremely important and individual to each boat. Cathy and Charlie who often sail double-handed decided that for them doing six hour watches each worked well. “We’ve learnt that you can always force yourself to stay awake, but it’s the off time which is important. Setting an alarm every 15minutes helps if we’re tired.” For Hubert, company on board is important as he explained: “Well, to play cards you need three! But the more crew you have, the better the company and comfort onboard.” The rally also opens opportunities to introduce others to sailing and some of the wonderful destinations that World ARC visits. Michael on Polaris was clear on this point: “One of my goals was to bring friends and family on board. I don’t always get the chance at home so this was the perfect opportunity. I like having a team on board.”

What skills have you learnt during World ARC?Sailing over 26,000 nautical miles is undoubtedly going enhance your skill set. When asked the question, skippers struggled to pinpoint specific areas however a trend was evident. Russ and Laurie simply quoted that “Patience, and your sailing abilities just sharpen constantly.” In agreement Charlie says “Lots of things used to seem difficult however now they are second nature. If you want to set the gennaker, you set the gennaker.” With their desire to sail their boat fast, often arriving in port ahead of the fleet on many occasions, it wasn’t a surprise to hear from the crew of Chika-lu that “sail repair” was a skill that had developed on board!

How would you advise those preparing for a circumnavigation?Russ and Laurie “over prepared” their catamaran prior to the start of World ARC. In doing so they summarise with “Time in port for us was more important than money. If you value your time in port, don’t scrimp on getting the boat ready to go. Bring spares for everything that might break. Prepare yourself and boat on how you want to spend your time.”. When asked, Michael was very clear stating that mentally preparing will allow more enjoyment en-route. “Before departing, understand that It’s a mistake if you want to make comparisons of every stop. You cannot compare.”

What equipment would you recommend?With the huge array of equipment and brands on the market, what is the best for a circumnavigating the world? With their experience, skippers gave a brief insight into the key equipment which can make a circumnavigation more comfortable.

For Michael on Polaris “We never expected the amount and need for SSB during the circumnavigation. A great backup! It’s very important however to install prior to other equipment to ensure a good grounding. I would also thoroughly recommend a hydro generator and watermaker.”

For Charlie and Cathy two key features, a large water maker and fuel tanks, gave them piece of mind during the remote destinations visited. “We never had to worry about running out of fuel or water during the entire circumnavigation. We would recommend both.”

What are your onward sailing plans after World ARC?Chika-lu will continue her sailing adventure and Hubert would like to explore the Mediterranean. “My plan is to take the boat to the Med. in 2016. I’m always curious of the next stop and looking forward to continuing the adventure.” Michael has decided that they will take time cruising the Caribbean before sailing Polaris back to Germany taking time to see friends and family giving the boat a rest. For Russ and Laurie, the Pacific Islands were truly a highlight of the rally. “We’re thinking about a half rally again, however this time spend more time in the South Pacific exploring the multitude of islands.” Charlie and Cathy would like to continue the fleet aspect of sailing for the time being. Along with three other boats in the fleet, Celebrate will sail with ARC USA alongside the start of ARC Europe in May. “We’re joining ARC USA to return to Portsmouth VA before the hurricane season. From our experience of World ARC it will be a fun way to make the trip home.”

Following a long discussion amongst the crew of Chika-lu, the following equipment was concluded as being the most important to them during the last 15 months. 1) A very good autopilot is necessary – we have a Raymarine model2) Correct installation of SSB and AIS with time to test the equipment - the ARC from Gran Canaria to Saint Lucia, could be a good playground for this. 3) Our hydro generator (Watt & Sea) has been brilliant.4) A small Spinnaker with a heavier cloth is better than a large spinnaker with lighter cloth. You need to be able to use it in wind strengths of 20-25 knots.

Charlie and Cathy Simon

Wolfram, Hubert Hirschfeld & Peter

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World ARC PioneersSanta Marta hosts circumnavigators’ visit to Colombia

‘Juno, this is the coast guard, come in please’. We are stowing the spinnaker pole on the foredeck as I hear the VHF crackle. ‘Juno, this is the Colombian navy, come in please’ the voice slightly more insistent this time, clearly not used to being ignored. To my relief the shoot bolt on the end of the big spinnaker pole springs shut, securing the pole on the mast and I reach for the hand-held VHF attached to my belt. ‘Coastguard, this is Juno,’ I reply, slightly out of breath. ‘Juno, this is the Colombian coast guard, welcome to Santa Marta, we will escort you to the port’.Wherever the World ARC fleet make landfall during

their circumnavigation local people provide a warm

reception, but for the first time this year, Santa

Marta on the Caribbean coast of Colombia hosted

the fleet for a new stopover for the World ARC 2015

route. The reception laid on for arriving crews was

a spectacle beyond all expectations and from the

moment lines reached the dock until they were cast

off some five days later, the friendly people, dramatic

landscapes and idyllic beaches of Santa Marta

created an impression not soon to be forgotten by

visiting crews.

“We follow our escort into the marina where the

docks are lined with people cheering and waving.

After a brief moment of panic when the bow thruster

fails, we reverse up to the dock with volunteers all

around to catch our lines.

Early settlersSanta Marta is a beautiful historic city located along

the existing route between Saint Lucia and Panama

where the recently completed IGY Santa Marta

Marina has provided a world class facility for the

benefit of cruising sailors. Leaving Rodney Bay, Saint

Lucia on 10 January, British yacht Juno completed

the 800 NM passage in just over 4 days – a breezy

first stage of downwind sailing, wave surfing and top

speeds reported by many of the fleet. The spectacle

of Juno’s arrival was followed by warm welcomes for

the sixteen boat fleet over the following days, and

crews set off to explore.

Located in the Province of Magdalena on the

northern coast of Colombia on the Caribbean Sea,

Santa Marta was founded in 1525 and is the oldest

surviving city on the South American Continent and

an important colonial city of Colombia. Known for

its dramatic landscapes with white sandy beaches

backed by the high Sierra Nevada Mountain range,

the city itself is full of colonial Spanish architecture,

traditional restaurants, street food and lively bars.

Simon Bolivar, who played a successful role in the

struggle for independence of Venezuela, Colombia

(including Panama at the time), Ecuador, Peru and

Bolivia from the Spanish Empire is a celebrated figure

in the history of Santa Marta. Bolivar is considered

to have helped lay the foundations for democracy

in much of Latin American and is regarded as a hero,

visionary, revolutionary and liberator.

A bottle of champagne is thrust into my hand and

the cork flies out with a satisfying pop. The owner

of the marina, Manuel Julian Davila, shakes our hand

and we pose for photographs with local artists on

stilts tottering precariously behind us, unused to the

perils of a pontoon lurching underfoot as the crowd

moves along the dock. Feeling like celebrities, we are

ushered into the air-conditioned marina office, where

we are welcomed by dignitaries from the tourist

board. The World ARC coming to Colombia for the

first time is clearly a big event and World Cruising

Club have done a great job to publicise and promote

the occasion. What an amazing welcome…”

Juno - Oyster 575

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Bolivar moved to Santa Marta to recover from poor

health and the house where Bolivar briefly lived

the last days of his life is now a historic site and art

museum set amid large and beautiful gardens.

Exploring AshoreMuch of what Santa Marta has to offer including

tours of the city, a coffee plantation visit and two

tours within the popular Tayrona National Park were

available for World ARC crews to join during the

stopover. Tayrona, which lies east of Santa Marta is

where the Colombian jungle meets the Caribbean

Sea, is renowned for some of the most beautiful

beaches in Colombia and important archaeological

sites, and was certainly a popular visit for crews.

Bahia Concha is a pretty beach of white sand

and deep blue waters in a circular bay set amid a

landscape of a tropical dry forest where cacti grow

close to the water’s edge making for a very dramatic

landscape and idyllic spot to spend an afternoon

looking out over the bay. The location was not

wasted on World ARC crews who within moments

of arriving were swimming in the clear waters of the

Caribbean Sea and relaxing under the shady trees

with glasses of rum and bottles of ice cold beer in

hand. Lunch, arranged by Marina Santa Marta was a

traditional Colombian barbecue with a selection of

grilled meats, salads and ice tea served while local

musicians played Colombian music. Vice Minister for

Tourism in Colombia, Sandra Howard, visited crews

warmly welcoming them to Colombia.

The region has so much to offer the visiting cruiser, so

much so that several boats berthed in the marina had

extended their stays to enjoy the area, made easier by

recently regulations allowing visiting yachts to stay for

up to two years without excessive penalties providing

the simple bureaucratic procedures are followed

correctly. However when time is short what better

way to get a quick overview by helicopter! Due to

some mechanical problems it was not possible to offer

many trips this visit but one of the lucky ones explains:

As a treat we take a helicopter ride to see the surrounding countryside. As we ascend it feels as if we are zooming out on a huge lens as the panorama opens up beneath us. It is a stunning landscape from the rugged serrated hills along the coast covered in scrub and cactus, across the flat plain and rooftops of Santa Marta up into the rainforest in the hills, culminating in the snow covered peaks on the summit. We hover over the lost city of Teyuna, built in the eighth century by the Tayrona Indians, before descending down to the coast again and sweeping low along dramatic white beaches, strewn with huge boulders and almost deserted. - Juno

Leaving their markAs part of the philanthropic activities of World

Cruising Club a visit was arranged to a local

Fundehumac community school, where all the

children received gifts for the start of the new school

term. The basic building constructed of simple

blocks, its’ undecorated walls adorned with colourful

artwork by the pupils, was packed with them, their

teachers and many parents. This education system is

self-perpetuating with qualified students returning to

play their part in giving back to the next generation.

The work is admirable, and the atmosphere

extremely moving; the visit was well received and an

activity that will be repeated on future visit.

A Fond Farewell After what was too short a visit the time came

to move on. Marina Santa Marta had extended

the red carpet treatment for the arrival of World

ARC, and could not have done any more to make

the fleet feel more welcome. Literally nothing

was too much trouble. The welcome, the social

programme and sadly the farewell – with a

delegation of VIP visitors on the breakwater, the

British Ambassador afloat on a large sports fishing

boat, a harbour tug with its water fire wall, and a

helicopter hovering overhead the fleet took the

start in perfect conditions for their leg to the San

Blas Islands.

It was with a heavy heart that the fleet left Santa Marta, the welcome in Colombia has been quite unbelievable; they put on an excellent display of customer service.– John, Exocet Strike

A sad but wonderful send-off from Santa Marta, her charming and friendly people and all the amazing hospitality we were given. – Ayama

Everyone involved in the visit of World ARC

to Santa Marta deserves great credit, and our

heartfelt thanks. In particular the persistence

of Marina Santa Marta in encouraging World

Cruising Club to include this stopover on the route

of World ARC.

Santa Marta Charity Donation

Welcome from the city of Santa Marta

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When every moment counts

43


Twenty boats completed the 450-nautical-mile ARC DelMarVa loop in 2015, with not a single dropout, despite some challenging conditions offshore. Andy Schell & Mia Karlsson managed the rally and sailed on it too, on their Swan 48 Isbjorn. Andy’s rally report is below.

The skies were threatening during the 2015 ARC DelMarVa Skipper’s Briefing, and rumors were flying about a delayed start. The remnants of Tropical Storm ‘Bill’ were marching across the mountains of West Virginia, and the thunder was rumbling. But after the briefing, the beer was flowing and the rally participants were excited!

Despite ‘Bill’, 2015 looked to be better than 2014 at least for Leg 1, with a forecast westerly wind as the storm moved off to the east, making for reaching conditions all the way to Portsmouth.

Down the BayARC DelMarVa fleet got underway on time in beautiful weather Sunday morning June 21, a great start to Father’s Day.

Sailing the “Loop”

with ARC DelMarVaDinner on Isbjorn

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It is the second year in a row that Mia and I sailed in the event. We set up the starting line on Isbjorn, getting underway about 30 minutes after the rest of the fleet took the starting line. Our big Swan 48 powered it’s way through the fleet as we sailed down the Bay, catching and passing everyone except the Southerly 57 Tristan B, who took ‘line honors’ so to speak outside Thimble Shoals. Passing Wind followed closely behind us. Isbjorn’s elapsed time of 22 hours was a remarkable 17 hours faster than our time last year on Sojourner, my father Dennis’ Wauquiez Hood 38. They’re different boats to be fair, but nonetheless, it emphasizes just how much an impact the weather has on the Chesapeake.

OffshoreExcitement was in the air in Portsmouth, VA, as the crews gathered at Roger Brown’s on High Street for one last get together before the open-ocean passage.

“We’ve never had the boat offshore before,” said Peter & Kristin Weaver of the Swan 39 Upward Wing, “and we are really looking forward to seeing how she does!”

They shared the sentiments of most participants, who’d signed up specifically for the challenge of Leg 2, the 160-nautical-mile offshore run up the coast to Cape May. While there was beer and wine to be had to Roger Brown’s most crews were instead drinking water and taking their first dose of seasickness medication!

Last year’s fleet started down the Bay tacking against a light southerly that quickly increased into the low 20s, making it a challenging and long passage. Most boats didn’t arrive into Portsmouth for well over 36 hours, a very long time to make the 130-mile passage.

But 2015 was oh-so-different. The first boats started arriving into Hampton Roads before dawn less than 24 hours after the start. The passage south was about as smooth as can be on the Chesapeake. The fleet enjoyed their Sunday reaching south in a brisk westerly, with winds in the 10-15 knot range and sheets eased.

“We had a heck of a sail offshore. It was broad-reaching conditions, and the wind just kept building from the south-southwest as the day went by.”Mitch Lebold, Sea Dreams

After Mia and I briefed the fleet on the weather, tides and what to expect offshore, the evening ended early and folks got to bed. It was to be an early morning the next day.

The first boats departed Ocean Marine Yacht Center before the sun came up to take advantage of the favorable current running out of the Elizabeth River. On a good day it’s 4 hours out to the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel and into the Atlantic proper, so any extra help you can get is welcome. Sea Dreams and Endeavor led the way out into the ocean, with the rest of the fleet strung out behind them, though not far behind. Sea Dreams led the fleet wire to wire and were the first to arrive into Cape May.

The Little family on Callinectes

Asolare at sea Sunshine sailing down the Bay

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“We had a heck of a sail offshore,” said Mitch Lebold from the Ovni 435 Sea Dreams. “It was broad-reaching conditions, and the wind just kept building from the south-southwest as the day went by.”

Mitch had a chance to practice his celestial navigation skills during the passage that he learned at one of my Celestial Workshops this past winter.

“I was taking sun-sights most of the day,” he said, “but never did get any stars. It was hard, because I wanted it to be authentic, so I needed to keep to my dead-reckoning plot and not change course until I got a new sight and a new fix!”

Mitch’s lack of star sights that evening was in fact a bad omen. By nightfall, the clouds were building in the west. The wind had laid down a bit from the

“The boat just flew in that breeze out in the ocean. We’ve never had her in those conditions before, and boy were we pleased! Our GPS recorded a top boat speed of 11.4 knots!”Peter, Upward Wing

20-knot range – several boats saw double-digit boatspeeds earlier in the day, flying downwind – but a forecast frontal passage was on it’s way offshore. Thunderstorms, very typical for this time of year, began popping up on the local radar, and crews started battening down the hatches.

By 21:30, the wind abruptly shifted to the northwest as the dark clouds rolled overhead. Lightning flashed in the distance and a few showers passed overhead. Some boats – ourselves on Isbjorn included – recorded brief wind gusts of 40+ knots. Thankfully folks were prepared, and everyone rode out the squalls successfully and continued on through the night once it cleared after an hour.

The yachts finished the leg at the Canyon Club Marina, our hosts in Cape May. Dock staff greeted each yacht personally on arrival, and even took our trash and delivered ice!

“The boat just flew in that breeze out in the ocean,” added Peter of Upward Wing. “We’ve never had her in those conditions before, and boy were we pleased! Our GPS recorded a top boat speed of 11.4 knots!”

Celebrating back in AnnapolisThe final evening’s prizegiving party back in Annapolis heralded a fun-filled ending to another enjoyable rally.

The fleet on Leg 3 was divided. With good weather on Legs 1 and 2, the rally was on schedule this year, something we couldn’t say of the past two years when storms and headwinds delayed the fleet right off the bat in Portsmouth after or during Leg 1. But in 2015, we arrived into Cape May on time, and had an ‘off’ day to give the fleet some time to relax.

Eight boats decided to depart on Thursday from Cape May and enjoy a more leisurely cruise back to Annapolis over the following three days, avoiding another overnight passage in heavy shipping lanes. The rest of the fleet elected to stay in Cape May and enjoyed the classic American seaside town.

“I basically went bar hopping in Cape May!” said Graham, crewmember aboard Tristan B, the big Southerly 57. “Being from Canada, you don’t really think a place like this truly exists,” he said of the quintessential New Jersey beach town. “I sat down next to a guy at the bar, and he actually looked over at me and said, in that thick New Jersey accent, ‘How you doin’! I loved it!”

The crews got back together at the Lobster House, a Cape May establishment, who rolled out the red

Jag and his staff at Canyon Club Marina

The Topjian family on Margalo

46


carpet for the sailors and opened up their private upstairs dining room for a high-end happy hour, complete with crab claws, lobster ‘sliders’ and bacon-wrapped scallops. The room overlooked the yacht basin marina and the old-timey marine railway, and the staff was dressed in classy ‘yachtie’ style, making for a fun-filled atmosphere. The restaurant even maintains a floating bar dockside on the schooner American, and a working fish market next door.

The boats that sailed nonstop through the night on Leg 3 were in for a treat. The wind was flat calm, so it was a motorboat ride up the Delaware Bay. What started as a grey, rainy morning morphed into a sun-splashed afternoon and a moonlit night. Upon exiting the C&D Canal on the Chesapeake Bay side, the wind started filling in from the south, and slowly began backing around to the southeast. By dinnertime, most boats were sailing again, and despite the very narrow channels in that part of the Upper Bay, the fleet could lay the course as the wind shifted in their favor.

Those who stopped in the canal, had it a little tougher.

“We pushed the boat hard coming down the Bay this morning,” said Charles from the Prout 38 catamaran Rebekah May, who sailed the length of the Bay in true ‘schooner weather,’ with full foulies and cloudy, low skies.

The prizegiving kicked off on the evening of June 27, but by then it was raining heavily and anyone who had thought of arriving by dinghy, quickly changed their minds and took a taxi instead!

“I love this kind of thing!” exclaimed Fred from Asolare. “We race a lot, but you never get to discuss strategy and sea stories so much in that crowd like you do here. This is just great getting to hear about everyone else’s stories and how they handled things at sea.”

A lot of the talk of course centered on the nasty frontal passage and heavy thunderstorms the fleet encounter on the offshore leg up to Cape May. Despite some anxiety in the moment, every boat to a person came away with a positive experience and nobody suffered any major damage to boats or crew.

“The DelMarVa is about introducing you to new experiences on your boats and inspiring you to go further afield than you have in the past,” I told the fleet to kick things off. “We never would have sent you out in that weather if we’d known what was going to happen,” I continued, “but in reality, if you want to go ocean sailing, at some point you’ll need to have that experience and see how you can handle it. And we’re very proud of all of you for handling it so well.”

Instead of scaring folks away, the feeling at the prizegiving was the opposite, that overcoming a tense situation in fact emboldened crews even more to want to keep stretching their wings, so to speak, and go further afield in their boats.

“Would we have done this loop by ourselves? Maybe.” said Peter from Upward Wing. “But no way would we have done it this year, and no way we’d have done it non-stop. Those three legs were the best three days of sailing we’ve ever had, and we’re already thinking of moving up our plans to join the Caribbean 1500 to sooner than we’d thought.”

Though it’s a non-competitive rally awards were given anyway for fun categories like ‘Best Dressed,’ ‘Sailor’s Award,’ ‘Overcoming Adversity,’ and the Weems & Plath ‘Navigator’s Award,’ for best-kept logbook. The prize presentation was a mix of storytelling and recognition, and raucous applause erupted as crews were brought up to the front to receive their token gifts.

Despite having 8pm set as the closing time for the event, crews lingered in the Democratic Club until nearly 10, and it felt like folks were sad to see the event come to a close. Alas, all good things have to end, but we’ll surely see the sailors down the line and hopefully on the water.

Until next year!

The best celebration at sea went to Breezy

Camille checking out the big boats in C&D Canal

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“I can tell we are getting close to departure: there is an increased energy to everything. The fact that we were up, showered and caffeinated by seven, while not uncommon for most, was way out of character for us. The volume and rough-housing coming from the port side hull continues to increase exponentially as we approach Saturday’s departure. To say that the boys are excited would be an understatement…” Many crews who have prepared for a long offshore passage will recognise the mood that Ali Mosely of Widago describes in her log. Whilst the scene refers to her three sons – twins William and David aged 11 and 13 year old Gordon, who are about to embark on their first Atlantic crossing - the countdown to start day can raise excitement from even the most seasoned sailor as preparation lists are tackled with increased vigour and anticipation.

ARC Europe & ARC USA

The crew of Widago at Nanny Cay

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Alongside Widago, in excess of fifty boats were preparing for voyages with World Cruising Club rallies ARC Europe and ARC USA in May 2015. Venturing west to east across the Atlantic, more than forty boats set sail with ARC Europe this year; thirty leaving from the British Virgin Islands, and six from Portsmouth, Virginia, for the first stage of the rally, a passage to Bermuda where a further seven yachts joined. ARC USA sailors starting from Tortola included seven yachts headed for Fort Lauderdale, Florida, whilst sixteen boats sailed alongside the ARC Europe fleet to Bermuda then onwards to ports along the US east coast.

Caribbean starters were hosted at Nanny Cay, Tortola and it was the equivalent of ‘standing room only’ on the docks with the bumper fleet preparing for the off. For some the rally was a convivial way to start a European adventure and for others, an end to a Caribbean season or circumnavigation. Either way, walking the docks at Nanny Cay and talking to the sailors, one thing was clear; experienced ‘ralliers’ are more than happy to share their wealth of experience, knowledge and expertise with first time rally participants.

Ana arrives early Some 1500 miles away, in Portsmouth, Virginia, the Ocean Marine Yacht Centre hosted a smaller fleet with the half-dozen starters waiting at the mouth the Chesapeake. Their preparations and start day will be remembered somewhat differently to the BVI fleet as they were confronted with the summer’s first named Tropical Storm, which, ironically, actually formed outside the tropics off the coast of Florida! Hurricane season doesn’t even ‘officially’ start until June 1, but don’t tell the climate that!

So as the BVI Fleet headed to the starting line, the Portsmouth fleet continued to wait.

“It was disappointing,” said Ian Clarke, skipper

Welcome party at Nanny Cay

of the catamaran Zoom, “but then that’s ocean sailing. Sometimes it pays to be patient.”

Zoom had patience to spare. Though they’d registered for ARC Europe, their plan all along was simply to sail to the mid-Atlantic island with the fleet, enjoy the parties, and then sail back to the USA. All as a shakedown cruise for sailing the boat home to Australia next year with World ARC. So for Ian and crew, a day or two delay was neither here nor there.

In the end, it was a short delay. Four days after the grim prognosis and the planned start, Sub-Tropical storm ‘Ana’ – the earliest named storm to make landfall in the US in over 65 years, according to rally forecaster’s WRI’s Jeremy Davis – was swallowed up by another approaching low

ARC Europe yachts at Nanny Cay

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from the west, and formed its own strong cold front as it got pulled to the north and east. While heading through the Gulf Stream on a SW winds is preferred due to the wind being with rather than against the strong current, in this case the SW wind heralded the coming front, which was a strong one, and would produce potentially unstable local conditions as the cold air of the approaching front met the warm Gulf Stream waters. So to time it just right, the fleet would depart on the back of the cold front, as soon as the wind shifted west and northwest, and get a reaching sail across the Gulf Stream and into the Atlantic in settled, though gusty, fair weather of the approaching High pressure.

Both fleets underway, bound for BermudaBermuda is a destination unique in the sailing world. It is a crossroads of cultures, with dozens of national flags hanging from the sterns of the boats anchored in the harbor. But unlike much of the Bahamas or even the Caribbean, it is a mid-ocean crossroads – just to get there on your own boat, you have got to sail at least 650 miles in deep water. It is the real deal, and you meet some real sailors in these parts. No doubt Bermuda’s repute will only be enhanced when the America’s Cup rolls in to town in 2017 – but for this year, it was the ARC Europe and ARC USA sailors who were able to enjoy her vivid colours, welcoming marina staff and a few authentic Dark & Stormys.

Highlights for crew in Bermuda, best explored by scooter, include touring Hamilton and the historic St.Georges Harbour (a UNESCO heritage site), as well as climbing the 200 stairs to Gibbs Hill Lighthouse to view the astonishingly beautiful landscape.

Ultimately, despite the delay, the Portsmouth fleet still managed to get two full days on island to get caught up, refuelled and re-watered before the start of the long journey ahead on Leg 2; the big one, 1800 miles across the pond to Horta in the Azores.

Meteorological mischief continuesFrom Bermuda, ARC Europe and ARC USA split for their namesake destinations. Their passages could not have been more different as unseasonal weather patterns in the Western Atlantic continued to challenge the fleet in more ways than one.

16 ARC USA yachts slipped out from St. George’s Harbour on May 19 and had light winds for the first few days. An area of low pressure had then developed just East of Cape Hatteras late on May 21 and yachts were given warning from rally weather forecasters WRI (Weather Routing Inc.) to expect a period of near gale force conditions. As the low was set to move off north-eastward it would likely affect a lot of the rally boats. Many took the opportunity to duck back south and/or west to avoid the centre of the low, and the catamarans Alia Vita and Zoom returned to Bermuda.

Doppelbock from Germany, who were the first boat to arrive in Portsmouth, VA reported that, “the trip to Portsmouth was OK despite we had to struggle hard in the gale with constantly more than 40 knots” and Chris from Tom Tom who sailed to Newport reported, “We were glad we went well West, as we saw nothing over mid 30s. It did mean we sailed a greater distance than the first leg though. No injuries and no boat damage, so all is well.”

The eastbound ARC Europe fleet set off a day after the USA fleet, “The start was exciting with over 40 sailboats in all shapes and sizes milling around in St. Georges Harbour waiting for to set off through Town Cut. As we sailed through the Cut, we saw several Bermuda longtails wheeling overhead - a good omen for sure! With light winds behind the fleet, many spinnakers were quickly hoisted, and we did the same. Winds are light, but the sun is shining and the seas are beautiful. We have a fishing line in the water, but nothing is interested in it yet. All in all, it was a good first day back at sea.” Gretchen Cunningham from Agua Dulce.

Alia Vita arrives in Bermuda

A big welcome in Bermuda for Euphoria

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Azores Cruise in pictures

On arrival in Horta on the island of Faial, plenty of sailors are more than ready to be ashore and head straight for Peter Café Sport to celebrate! The tradition of ocean sailing is alive and well in the pretty town and each year sailors add to the colourful harbour wall as it is considered bad luck to leave without first having painted your boat mural. A tour of the island takes in sights such as the ’Ponta dos Caplinhos’, site of the most recent volcanic eruption in 1957, and the ‘Caldeira’ an enormous crater at the top of the island.

The next stop is Angra do Heroismo, Terceira, a day sail from Horta.Crews enjoy a guided walking tour around the UNESCO World Heritage listed city, shopping at the many boutique stores and a chance to see one of the traditional street bull running fiestas in a nearby village.

An overnight sail takes you to Ponta Delgada, the bustling capital of the Azores. With a population of 50,000 it’s often the first city visited by participants in a while, all the trappings of which are a short walk from the marina.

The small fishing village of Vila do Porto on Santa Maria is the final port of call on the Azores Cruise. Known locally as the ‘sunny island’ it is the southern most island and the only one with white sandy beaches.

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As the fleet reached the halfway stage to Faial, the Azores high settled more to the north creating light headwinds coming straight out of Horta. At the Skippers Briefing in Bermuda it was outlined that this may not be the typical sail north out of Bermuda to get the good westerly winds and sail over the top of the Azores high, and its associated clockwise winds. Many took a more rhumb line route taking advantage of the good south westerlies that had carried the yachts this far. In the end, an Azores “double” high settled in over the islands and conditions at sea continued to be very calm with light breezes for the 1800nm passage.

“When your opening gambit with a blog is about bread you know you have had a quiet day. The Navigator/Baker produced yet another loaf from the oven which was rapidly demolished by the crew at lunch. But it did emphasise the importance that meals achieve in the daily routine of life aboard. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are times for the crew to meet and exchange views on the day, the route, the lack of fuel, etc etc. The lettuce-based salad at lunchtime has given way to a pasta/coleslaw combination and when today

After 6 weeks together sailing across the North Atlantic the final Prize Giving was held at the Waypoint restaurant near Marina de Lagos. With a slideshow of photos from throughout the rally playing on TV screens it was as if a football match was being watched with cheers from different sides of the room as crew photos were spotted. Marking the end of the rally, prizes were awarded not only for sailing achievements within the Cruising Division providing fun competition for the fleet, but also prizes recognising crews for best blog from sea, best fish and best Torrero (bull fighter!) were presented. The biggest cheer went to the winners of the Spirit of the ARC Award - Bikini.

Whilst ARC Europe crews had visited some magnificent ports en route, and enjoyed great sailing, it is the friendships formed that rally participants were quick to praise about their experience. “Sailing is fun, and big ocean crossings are as well. But sailing with other people is more fun!” said Yana and Henrik Augustsson who completed their second Atlantic crossing with ARC Europe on board Song of the Sea (SWE) a Najad 460. “ARC Europe has been a great way of getting to Europe safely and to get to know a lot of wonderful people.”

Turn your dream into reality!ARC Europe 2016 has starts from Nanny Cay, Tortola on May 7, finishing in Lagos on June 19.

ARC USA 2016 departs from Nanny Cay, Tortola with route options directly to Ft. Lauderdale via the Old Bahama Channel, or to Bermuda and on to Portsmouth, VA or other US East Coast ports.

Roger announced we were eating the last tomato it brought it home that Tesco was many miles away…” – Gozwoz – Day 13 from Bermuda

It is always a shame when the ARC Europe fleet starts to divide up in the Azores. After having 38 boats cross from Bermuda to Horta this is where for different reasons and commitments the rally yachts head in different directions for Leg 3. Boats departing Santa Maria headed north towards the UK and beyond, whilst Sophie chose to sail to Madeira, Free Spirit went direct to Gibraltar and a few chose to spend even longer in the beautiful islands of the Azores!

Just over half of the fleet, 21 boats, made their way to Marina de Lagos, renowned as one of the premier marinas on the Portuguese Algarve coast. Five days after the rally yachts left the Azores, the reception pontoon at Marina de Lagos echoed with cries of ‘Bem-Vindo!’ as ARC Europe crews came together for the final time of the rally. On arrival many took the opportunity to explore the maze of cobbled streets, or just relax at the nearby beaches or the marina swimming pool – very welcome in the Portuguese heat.

Underway once again

The crews in Terceira

Gozwoz arrives in Lagos

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Indonesia announces relaxed formalities for foreign pleasure yachts - is it for real?You may have already heard that the Indonesian tourist authorities want to attract more private yachts to its shores and in line with this have announced they are easing entry formalities. Noonsite contacted a number of Indonesian yachting agents to find out if anything is going to change for visiting yachts. The message that all agents report loud and clear is that under no circumstances should a foreign flagged boat of any size turn up in Indonesia without a CAIT. General opinion is that the Indonesia authorities are notorious for announcing improved measures, none of which actually seem to materialise

Find out full details of the paperwork required to enter Indonesia at noonsite´s Indonesia formalities.

Cruising notes from A round-up of recent news and information for cruising sailors from Noonsite.com, the global directory for cruising sailors.

Sargassum Phenomenon is a Serious Issue for Atlantic sailorsSingle-hander Donna Lange has kicked off a serendipitous scientific event by showing how scientists can benefit from the support of a group of people with a keen interest in the oceans - world-cruising sailors. Currently in the South Atlantic, Donna is assisting researchers with her reports on Sargassum weed mats encountered.

Donna became caught in a huge Sargassum mat off Sierra Leone, Africa, recently and sought help from the Seven Seas Cruising Association. Whilst assisting Donna, Joan Conover of the SSCA was struck by the seriousness of this issue for cruisers. “From Donna’s reports, this problem seems to be pretty widespread, yet no one is talking about it outside of the Caribbean. If Atlantic cruisers can assist with Sargasso weed locations, then with enough information the extent of the issue can be mapped out.”

Andrew Bishop of World Cruising Club, comments; “Following Donna Lange’s sightings, it appears the weed is much more widespread this year, and we are hoping that many of our rally participants will be able to assist with the research.”

Wintering 2015-2016 in the Eastern MediterraneanIf you are considering where to winter your boat next year after a season cruising the Eastern Med, read the article on noonsite.com with comments from the cruising community to give you a good idea as to where the majority are dropping their hooks in 2015/16. Locations reviewed include Marmaris, Setur Antalya, and Izmir in Turkey, and the Evia Channel, Preveza, Lefkas and Kalamata in Greece. Escaping the Schengen zone, the winter weather is also reported to be superb in Cyprus. For its affordability, Sicily’s Marina de Ragusa seems has received glowing reviews from a number of cruisers.

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