A New Homme in S.F.Considering it a city of “men who dress up,” the French luxury brand Dior opened a 2,200-square-foot space in a landmarked building in Union Square. Page MW4

Plus:Isaac Mizrahi will design a collection of dress shirts and neckwear for fall. Page MW4

RETAIL REINVENTION

Bergdorf Unveils Initial Revamp Of Men’s Store Lanvin shop is first of its kind in the U.S. and marks start of yearlong renovation.

December 22, 2011

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Man of THE WEEK

Thom Browne’s

got nothing on Santa.

Father Christmas

has been using

the retro touch of a pom-pom

since before the designer

was born.

He rocks the red velvet

leisure suit.

Adds the finishing

touch to the outfit and

will keep his ankles warm on his round-

the-world journey

Saturday night.

A little debutante, but necessary to keep his

fingers clean after eating all those cookies.

The “Pirates of the Caribbean” black belt with oversize gold buckle works

for Santa.

Faux fur trim is the must-have of the

season, but Santa has known it all along.

He’s ahead of his time: Beards are

the “It” trend in

men’s grooming. by JEAN E. PALMIERI

BERgdoRf goodMAN MEN turned 21 this summer, and it’s time for a facelift.

The luxury men’s wear emporium, which opened across from the women’s store on fifth Avenue and 58th Street in Manhattan in August of 1990, is in the midst of a yearlong renovation of its third-floor contemporary designer space. This is the first comprehensive revamping of the floor since its opening.

As part of the project, the windows to the street will be exposed, allowing natural light into the store for the first time, and the box-like delineations between boutiques will be eliminated, making the floor more open and easier to shop.

The first phase of the renovation has been completed with the unveiling of a new Lanvin shop — the brand’s first men’s shop in the U.S. — and the retailer is hard at work at a Prada Men’s boutique, a new addi-tion to the floor that also houses labels such as gucci, Etro, Alexander McQueen and Bottega Veneta. The Prada shop is expected to be completed by the end of the week.

“This is the beginning of a project that will shed light on the future of Bergdorf ’s men’s store,” said ginny Hershey-Lambert, executive vice president of merchandising for Bergdorf ’s. The renovation is being spear-headed by Linda fargo, Bergdorf ’s longtime senior vice president of the fashion office and store presentation, who recently unveiled a revamped designer shoe department on the second floor of the women’s store.

Renovation on the Lanvin space began in october, and the shop opened earlier this month. “Linda and the Lanvin design team worked together to make it a Bergdorf goodman one-of-a-kind shop,” Hershey-Lambert said. It features a retro-modern environment of rough and refined elements including weathered European oak parquet floors and cascade coil metal drapery that al-lows light in but doesn’t take away from the merchandise. The shop showcases the entire breadth of the company’s men’s wear collec-tion — from luxury sneakers and sweater-blazers to suits, furnishings and tuxedos.

“Alber [Elbaz, the company’s designer] has brought a whole new way of dress-ing to men,” Hershey-Lambert said. “He really brings a french elegance to the floor.” And although the third floor has a sportswear bent, the clothing and formal-wear has also found its fans. “It’s a line that bridges the second and third floors for us.” The second floor houses the more traditional clothing collections.

SAnTA ClAUS: A

Although he’s really busy this week filling his sled with gifts for eager fashionistas, he hasn’t lost his fashion sense. Often imitated but never duplicated, only Santa can pull off the red velvet, white fur and pom-poms.

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by JESSICA IREDALE

PRofESSIonAL IS thE mAIn woRD that came to mind after spending a half day watching matt Czuchry try on suits at a photo shoot. not just because he looked great in them, which you can plainly see he did. In between shots, while the guys on the other side of the camera amused each other with stupid dude humor (“why do girls drink so much Diet Coke? Because they’re fat and thirsty.”), Czuchry paced about the studio with the look of someone who was about to appear before a judge rather than a couple of fashion editors.

maybe it’s force of habit. for three years, Czuchry has held a sup-

porting role on CBS’ hit law drama “the Good wife,” on which he plays attorney Cary Agos, frenemy of Lockhart Gardner, the firm around which the show is based. for those not among the nine-million-plus viewers, Czuchry’s three-season story arch took him from go-getting, first-year lawyer pitted against Julianna margulies in season one, to the sore loser of that square-off in sea-son two, to conflicted member of the State’s Attorney’s staff caught in the middle of agen-das in season three. “hopefully, what we’ve seen throughout all three seasons, is wheth-er you love him or hate him, Cary’s good at his job. he’s a damn good lawyer.”

true, but this is television, where a de-gree of superficiality is inherent. Czuchry is one of the show’s most attractive male cast members, whose only real competi-tion is Josh Charles (no disrespect to Chris noth) and, thus, is more likable than not. At the mention of this, Czuchry’s focused face

broke into a smile so loaded with dimples and genuine laugh lines and topped off with a blush, it was like watching a grown man turn into a kitten. “I never turn down a com-pliment,” said Czuchry, who is 34 but could pass for mid-20s.

the writers don’t play Czuchry as “the hot one” as much as they could — season two was almost a complete dry spell for Cary — but it would be a waste of good looks to ground him entirely with on-the-job resolve. So, the two most recent epi-sodes had him sleeping with his co-council Dana Lodge (monica Raymund), while both of them individually battened up the sexual tension with the mysterious, leather-jacket-clad investigator Kalinda (Archie Panjabi). “we have this Dana-Kalinda triangle that’s been slowly building in a personal-profes-sional way, and I love that about the show,” said Czuchry. “Anytime the show is really successful I think all the personal and pro-fessional lines come together.”

network tV does not lack for lawyer shows, yet “the Good wife” has managed to stand out. It’s been a critical darling, lavished with award nominations and sev-eral big wins, mostly for margulies, who has won an Emmy and Golden Globe for her

Men’s Week

Matt Czuchry of “The Good Wife” takes his work and his wardrobe seriously.

MW2 WWD THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2011

Pleasure DoinG Business WiTh You

“Whether you love him or hate him,

Cary’s good at his job. he’s a damn

good lawyer.”

Neil Barrett’s silk suit and Prada’s cotton shirt. Prada tie; TheTieBar.com tie bar; Neil Barrett’s pocket square.

PHOTOS BY BLAIR GETZ MEZIBOV; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA

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Men’s Week MW3WWD THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2011

role, and is nominated for another Golden Globe in 2012 for best actress in a television drama series. But the show has taken a hit in its third season, down about two million viewers. Critics and fans complained of weak plotlines at the outset of the season, but the show’s real adversary was the move from its Tuesday night slot to Sunday at 9 p.m., where it had to contend with the NFL and its DVR-befuddling delays. All things considered, the show has emerged rela-tively unscathed. Asked what distinguishes “The Good Wife” from the rest of the “Law and Order”-ly pack, Czuchry brought up “Perry Mason,” an unlikely comparison given the shows’ premises are so different, and that Czuchry is at least a generation too young to be a “Perry Mason” fan. “But

as a point of reference, what people really enjoyed about ‘Perry Mason’ was its bright-ness and its positivity in the beginning, mid-dle, end as far as the case was always going to come out in a good way,” said Czuchry. “I think why people connect with our show is the opposite of that, when unexpected things happen, or the gray areas of the law.”

Czuchry moved from Los Angeles to New York for the show, which shoots May through July in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. He lives in the West Village, where he “likes the energy.” He is not dating anyone and says he hasn’t really since he moved to New York. Primarily a television actor, Czuchry’s chosen his small-screen projects wisely, ap-pearing on mainstream successes such as “Gilmore Girls” and “Friday Night Lights.”

The same cannot be said for the last movie he made, the film adaptation of Tucker Max’s autobiographical, best-sell-ing bro book “I Hope They Serve Beer in Hell,” which can be filed under “flop.” In it, Czuchry played Max, an unapologetic drunk, womanizing, overgrown frat boy. If this interview was any indication, Czuchry has little in common with that character, or that type of guy in general. Quiet to the point of shy, yet unfailingly polite, he said work is his main focus, though he has found time to take a photographer class at the International Center of Photography. When pressed about the show and any opinions on plotlines — past, current or upcoming — he would not veer from neutral praise. Finally, this being Men’s Week, he even

steered the conversation toward fashion all by himself, name-checking designers he likes, such as John Varvatos, and those who like him, including Bernardo Rojo, who made Czuchry tuxedos for the Emmy and SAG awards.

His fashion interests extend beyond the red carpet. At the end of the shoot, he changed back into the John Varvatos sweat-er and Uniqlo jeans he arrived in, then put on a silver Varvatos necklace with a cross dangling from it that took the look in a far more style-conscious direction. “I like clothes, in what they — again, talking about energies — what it brings out in you,” said Czuchry. “If you put a leather jacket on, you feel differently than if you put a suit on, and I love that aspect of clothes.”

USINESS WITH YOUDolce & Gabbana’s

wool suit and John Mezibov’s

cotton shirt. John Varvatos tie;

TheTieBar.com tie bar.

Louis Vuitton’s cotton shirt and Burberry London’s wool pants.

Prada tie; TheTieBar.com tie bar; Marc Jacobs belt.

Men’s WeekWWD THURSDAY, DECEMBER 22, 2011MW4

Dior Homme Store Bows in San Franciscoby DaviD Lipke

Dior Homme has opened its third free-standing store in the U.S., in San Francisco’s Union Square. Located at 216 Stockton Street, the 2,200-square-foot space on two levels was previously a women’s Christian Dior store that has been renovated and transformed into a men’s store.

“The configuration was too small for the new women’s concept we are doing now. But it’s a perfect location and layout for a men’s store,” said pamela Baxter, president and chief executive officer of Christian Dior inc. and president and ceo of LvmH perfumes and Cosmetics North america.

The company, a unit of paris-based LvmH moët Hennessy Louis vuitton, is looking for a larger location for a women’s Christian Dior store in San Francisco.

“We’ve always thought San Francisco was a good opportunity for men’s,” said Baxter. “This is a city where there are men who dress up and [there are] social occasions to do so. We started discussions a couple of years ago about opening Dior Homme here.”

The San Francisco store joins existing freestanding Dior Homme stores in New

York and Beverly Hills. There are also Dior Homme units within, or connected to, larg-er Christian Dior women’s stores at the ala moana Center in Hawaii, and Las vegas units in the Wynn hotel, the CityCenter complex and The Forum Shops at Caesar’s palace.

The new dual-level San Francisco store showcases sports-wear, casual footwear and acces-sories on the ground level and tailored clothing and dress fur-nishings on the second floor. a third floor is reserved for a stock room and offices.

Designed by an in-house ar-chitectural team based in paris,

the store is decorated in Dior Homme’s signature grays and blacks, with mirrored surfaces and lacquered steel fixtures ac-centuating the stark, modern aesthetic of the brand. The floors are in gray porcelain tile and a glass and steel staircase connects

the two floors. a mural by San Francisco-based artist Hannah Stouffer adorns the second floor staircase landing, depicting an abstracted forest and wildlife scene, giving the store a uniquely San Francisco person-ality, said Baxter.

The exterior of the building was left un-touched, due to its landmark status, but the interior of the store was made more visible from the street. a 22-inch video screen plays Dior Homme fashion shows and montages in a vitrine to the left of the entrance.

Nearby stores include Neiman marcus, Gucci, prada, Hermès and Chanel.

in addition to its own boutiques, Dior Homme is wholesaled at Saks Fifth avenue

and Barneys New York, as well as four spe-cialty accounts in North america: maxfield, atelier, riccardi and Leone. Total sales in 2011 for Dior Homme will be up in the high double digits, driven by increases in tailored clothing, said Baxter.

However, men’s remains less than 15 per-cent of the total Christian Dior business in the U.S., due to its very limited distribution.

Dior Homme is currently looking for real estate to house a freestanding store in Las vegas. a temporary Dior Homme store is slated to open in the fall in miami’s design district at 150 Ne 40th Street, with a per-manent location planned for 2014 at 161 Ne 40th Street.

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Mizrahi Inks Men’s LicenseiSaaC mizraHi is the latest women’s designer to try his hand at men’s wear.

Xcel Brands inc., which acquired the mizrahi brand in September, has signed a licensing agreement with Burma Bibas for a collection of dress shirts and neckwear under the isaac mizrahi New York brand. The collection will be launched for fall at department and specialty stores. This marks the company’s entry into the men’s arena, according to robert D’Loren, chair-man and chief executive officer of Xcel.

“i am delighted to be designing men’s furnishings,” mizrahi said. “i feel it’s the right time and opportunity to get into the men’s business, which i’m so passionate about. it’s a great new partnership.”

arthur klaus, chief merchandis-ing officer of Burma Bibas, described mizrahi as “such a talent and his creden-tials speak volumes. His unique pres-ence will allow us to reach consumers of all genres, which in today’s marketplace are very important.”

retail price points have not been determined.

Since buying the mizrahi brand for $31.5 million this fall, Xcel has inked licensing deals for jewelry, handbags, footwear, eyewear, legwear and beauty products. Deals for intimates, denim, bridal, outerwear and home are ex-pected to be announced shortly.

— Jean E. Palmieri

Since opening, sweaters, sport coats, out-erwear and shirts have performed well at the Lanvin shop, according to Christopher Spieker, vice president and divisional mer-chandise manager of men’s sportswear for the store. “We’ve only had the collection a few seasons, but we’re really successful with it,” he said. in men’s designer collections, there are often only one or two signature pieces that perform well, but in this case, the entire line has been strong, including the shoes, which are a hallmark of elbaz’s own personal wardrobe. “They’re sneakers you can wear with a suit,” Spieker said. Bags will

be added for spring, he noted.The shop also has its own fitting room,

a sliver of a spot that overlooks the street and features photos of the original Lanvin store in paris.

The entire third-floor renovation is slat-ed for a fall 2012 completion, according to Hershey-Lambert, and will involve the shifting around of the vendors. New brands will also be added, notably YSL, which will make its debut in the store with the pre-fall collection.

additionally, she said, labels that are now part of the mix, including Givenchy and rick owens, will also be given breathing room. “You’ll see the breadth of our assortment,” she said. “it’ll be so much stronger.”

Bergdorf is making a move to step up its game at the same time that its competitors, notably Barneys New York, have significantly heightened their attention to the men’s wear category. Under the direction of Barneys new chief executive officer, mark Lee, the store has added a variety of new vendors, many of which are exclusive and available in the U.S. only at that store.

even so, Hershey-Lambert is ready for a little healthy competition and knows that Bergdorf ’s has established a position in the New York City landscape with its unique luxury men’s wear assortment. “This store has a 100 percent focus on the man and how he shops,” she said. “it’s a gracious place.”

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Bergdorf Unveils First Phase of Renovation{Continued from MW1}

A mural by Hannah Stouffer decorates

the stairwell.The ground floor of the Dior

Homme store showcases sportswear, casual

footwear and accessories.

Here and below: The new Lanvin shop.Here and below: The new Lanvin shop.

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